Europa Star 5-11

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EUROPE EDITION All Europe - EEC, Central & Eastern Europe, Russia

N° 303 5 /2010 Oct. / Nov. 10

9

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THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE

THE EXPLOSION OF MANUFACTURE MOVEMENTS 1 Glamour, elegance and fashion 1 Behind the scenes: watch hands

Watch in black high-tech ceramic and 18K yellow gold. Self-winding mechanical movement custom-made by AUDEMARS PIGUET exclusively for CHANEL: CHANEL - AP3125 (40 jewels, 21’600 vibrations/hour).

Rotor in black high-tech ceramic with a segment in rhodium-plated 22K yellow gold mounted on high-tech ceramic ball bearings.

Balance with 8 giromax regulating weights. 60-hour power reserve.

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2 EDITORIAL europa star

Countdown R Pierre M. Maillard Editor-in-Chief Who said that biodiversity was in danger?

This is undoubtedly true when it comes to nature (which people generally say “surrounds” us as if we did not belong to it, while in fact we are part of it and are undeniably the ultimate predators of the natural world) but it is definitely not the case when it comes to the flora and fauna of the watch world.

Today, these timely species are proliferating like never before. They are just one example that we are indeed traversing a rather strange period. One would have thought, if only for an instant, after the seismic activity brought about by the greedy sorcerers’ apprentices at Lehman Brothers, Merrill Lynch, and UBS, among others, that the world would return to a little more common sense and restraint. But no! Quite the contrary. Things are continuing just like before and it is not the very weak governmental regulations mouthed here or there that are going change anything.

The strongest have come out of the crisis even stronger, although there are less of them. It is the ‘small’, in many more numbers, that received the brunt of the financial storm. The same can be said of the world of watches. The strong watch groups have weathered the storm and have become even stronger—take a quick look at the triumphant profit announcements from the Swatch Group, LVMH, and Richemont— while at their feet swarm those who are scrambling desperately to escape the prevailing fierce winds of Darwinism. And to succeed, they are leaving no stone unturned.

Everything is at their disposal.

Do you want large ostentatious timepieces?

Or miniscule machines for the wrist? Lots of sparkling stones? Three black hands on

a white dial? Colour or no colour? Special materials developed in the labs at NASA? Feathers? Mother-of-pearl? Or do you want to impress the world with a totally unwearable object but one that is extremely visible? Do you want a sculpture for your wrist? Or do you prefer a miniature painting? Would you like to read the time on a spiral of diodes or do you need a very, very, large and irreparable complication?

Are you concerned with spending the most money possible? Or do you like counterfeit pieces? Or copies? To sum it up, whatever animal interests you, you will certainly find a specimen somewhere in the jungle of watchmaking.

If, at one time—a time before the crisis— we might have thought that all this activity was proof of a dynamic and healthy industry, today we have the impression that this carnival seems more like a dance at the edge of a precipice, a headlong flight into the abyss. But when they momentarily forget their corporate doubletalk and let slip their most personal feelings, even the highest ranking official in the publicly-

Photo: A few examples of the watches from the ‘Steampunk’ watchmaker, Haruo Suekichi.

traded watch companies recognizes that “today’s times are strange”. Everyone, or nearly everyone, has the feeling “that we are heading straight into the wall” but nothing is done. We march on, advancing blindly. We are using everything we can find, we fire in all directions, but we have the impression that we are firing into a void. No one knows really if we are climbing up the ‘V’ slope or if it is a ‘W’ that awaits us around the bend.

The planet is growing weary but the watch industry is darting ahead—but until when?

Today’s times seem to be in a countdown mode that whirls uncontrollably around in the void.

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Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, VallĂŠe de Joux, Switzerland, since 1833. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

4 CONTENTS europa star

www.europastar.com

THE WORLD’S MOST INFLUENTIAL WATCH MAGAZINE EUROPE

N° 303 5/2010 OCT./NOV.

2

EDITORIAL Countdown

6

COVER STORY Tudor, a strong repositioning and a return to its roots

12

MANUFACTURING The Swiss watch planet in movement Part 2 The explosion of manufacture movements

34

GLAMOUR Elegance is more than an attitude, it’s a trend

44 45 46

GLAMOUR GALLERY Badollet, Corum, Damoiselle D, Ulysse Nardin, Zenith Armand Nicolet, Dior, Hautlence, MB&F, Roger Dubuis Carl F. Bucherer, Chopard, Hermès; Milus, Patek Philippe

48 50

BRANDS Ebel – Just hand over the chocolate and no one will get hurt!

Arcadia – A blast from the past

52

SOPHIE’S CHOICE Over the rainbow with fashion watches

56

FAIRS Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 2010

62

BEHIND THE SCENES Lending a hand to time

66

RETAILER PROFILE The luck of the Irish: Sheeran Jewellers in Dublin

68

POST CARD The markets are heating up

70

WORLDWATCHWEB® Watchmaking brands’ ambassadors in the digital era

72

THE EUROPA STAR KNOWLEDGE Knowledge is power

78

EDITORIAL AND ADVERTISERS’ INDEX

80

LAKIN AT LARGE Thirteen and still counting

Europa Star launches training course for retailers - The Europa Star Knowledge is an independent, multi-level training course for watch retailers, developed by Europa Star’s journalists along with well-known industry experts. This comprehensive, four-day course will provide watch retail salespeople with all the tools they need to be both professional and successful. The course will take place just before the opening of BaselWorld (March 20-23, 2011). For any further information and registration: watch-knowledge@europastar.com

HERITAGE CHRONO by Tudor Steel 42mm chronograph equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement. Hours, and minutes, date at 6 o’clock, 45-minute totalizer at 9 o’clock, small seconds hand at 3 o’clock, satinfinished and polished case, bidirectional rotatable steel bezel with black disc, grey/black dial, screw-down pushers at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock for the chronograph functions, sapphire crystal, screw–down crown and water resistant to 150 metres.

Montres Tudor SA 3-5-7, rue François Dussaud 1227 Les Acacias Genève 26 Switzerland Tel: +41 22 302 22 00 Fax: +41 22 300 22 55 www.tudorwatch.com

Europa Star HBM SA 25 Route des Acacias P.O. Box 1355 CH-1211 Geneva 26 Switzerland Tel +41 (0)22 307 78 37 Fax +41 (0)22 300 37 48 www.europastar.com contact@europastar.com © 2010 EUROPA STAR Audited REMP 2009 The statements and opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors and not necessarily Europa Star.

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DUOMÈTRE À QUANTIÈME LUNAIRE. Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381.

The Dual-Wing concept is a genuine horological revolution featuring two distinct mechanisms synchronised by a single regulating organ. The patented jumping stop-seconds function enables time-setting to the nearest 1/6th of a second.

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Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vallée de Joux, Switzerland, since 1833. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

6 COVER STORY europa star

TUDOR, A STRONG REPOSITIONING AND A RETURN TO ITS ROOTS RPierre Maillard

T

The birth of Tudor dates back to 1946 when Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, officially launched the company Montres Tudor SA. The name itself goes back to 1926, however, the year it was registered by the Swiss watch company, “Veuve de Philippe Hüther,” on behalf of Hans Wilsdorf. A decade later, in 1936, Wilsdorf took it over for himself.

In March 1946, the company really began to expand, and Hans Wilsdorf’s announcement at that time demonstrated his reasoning, “For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch that our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standards of dependability for which Rolex is famous.”

Hans Wildorf, who had already entered watchmaking history with the Oyster and the Perpetual, thus foreshadowed the commercial strategies that would be put into place by so many groups and brands only decades later.

At that time, Rolex was already famous around the world for the quality and prestige of its production. With Tudor, the pioneering Hans Wilsdorf wanted to reach a larger audience with a quality product guaranteed by the ‘parent company’. With it, he wanted to

offer advanced technology and functionality, good design, a distribution network around the world, and good after-sales service.

"Punished without mercy" No sooner said than done—the following year, in 1947, Tudor launched the Tudor Oyster. In 1952, it was followed by the Tudor Oyster Prince line. As the ‘Oyster’ name indicates, the first Tudor timepieces offered major technical advances, and the brand emphasized its close relationship with Rolex in its advertisements that featured the mention “Sponsored by Rolex”, under the Tudor logo.

But the focus of the brand’s communication distinguished itself by its clearly designated ‘target’. Its advertisements showed situations such as workers perched on a beam high atop a skyscraper, a motorcyclist on a small mountain

i The evolution of the Tudor logo over the last few decades perfectly illustrates the brand’s journey. From the beginning, in the 1920s and 1930s, only the name Tudor appeared on the logo, the name of the famous dynasty that long reigned in England. Around 1936, the logo took on the emblematic rose of the Tudors shown on a shield.

This was a way to symbolize the two poles of the brand— the style and elegance of the rose, combined with the strength and the ‘technical nature’ of the shield.

Starting in 1947, one year after the launch of Montres Tudor SA, only the rose appeared on the dials, thus showing, above all, the brand’s elegant style. Finally, in 1969, the brand came out with a number of technical pieces and the rose disappeared in favour of only the shield, emphasizing the notions of resistance and reliability. Today, this same shield has been stylized and given its letters of nobility, resembling more a coat of arms, as it decorates the dial of the new Tudor watches.

road, or (rather surprising in today’s sensibilities) the image of a worker using a pneumatic drill. These images were accompanied by the TUDOR ADVISOR (1957)

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COVER STORY 7

TUDOR GRANTOUR

slogan, “Punished without mercy! – Triumph of the new self-winding watch." Solidity, reliability and precision were thus strongly emphasized.

Tudor thus created a special place for itself in the symphony of brands and, over the years, would emphasize its identity and its particular style with a mix of technology and modernity combined in an elegant design. In 1952, after the participation of 30 Tudor Oyster Prince watches in a scientific expedition to North Greenland organized by the Royal Navy, the brand decided to expand the functional technology of its watches, notably by developing a professional diver’s watch, the Tudor Prince Submariner, that would be adopted by the American Navy between 1962 and 1964 and by the French Navy at the beginning of the 1970s (until 1984). Following this, came other remarkable models such as the Tudor Prince Date-Day and the particularly emblematic Tudor Oysterdate Chronograph that was introduced in 1970.

The following decades were marked by the overwhelming quartz revolution and crisis as well as an explosion in the number of new brands coming from all over. While Tudor pre-

TUDOR OYSTER PRINCE (1963)

TUDOR PRINCE SUBMARINER (1964)

sented some very interesting models, such as the Hydronaut in 1999, the brand began to see its singularity wane little by little. Yet during this period, Tudor still remained quite strong in certain markets—markets that were ignored by other brands, such as the immense Chinese mainland (its early presence in China has allowed it today to benefit from more than 300 points of sale and 25 same-name boutiques in this country alone) and its image also endured in many other of the world’s regions.

Return to its founding identity In 2009, management took things seriously into hand, if we might use this expression, and Tudor was strongly repositioned and reorganized. It received new products, a new marketing strategy and new collaborations such as Porsche Motorsport, which anchors the brand in the world of car racing, technology and style. It also adopted a new slogan: ‘Designed

8 COVER STORY europa star

TUDOR HERITAGE CHRONO

for Performance. Engineered for Elegance’.

While revisiting its offer, Tudor has also revisited the values of its past in search of its founding identity. It wanted to find “the subtle balance between performance and elegance,” as summed up by Tudor’s managers. In other words, this new adventure is about reaffirming the technical qualities, reliability and robustness of a watch that would “attain the highest standards of dependability” to evoke Hans Wilsdorf’s words in 1946. And in accordance with its legitimacy, Tudor now expresses this technology while not departing from its natural elegance. Quite naturally, this return to its roots is accompanied by a change in its public. Tudor now targets a clientele that is young and urban, those who appreciate a sporty look and design, those who want to express themselves with style but without ostentation.

So, it is in this spirit that the new models and collections of Tudor have been designed.

They have transcended the utilitarian to provide products that are as performing as they are emotional.

A clearly designed offer Tudor’s new offer is made up of three main collections: the sports watch with the Heritage, Grantour and Hydronaut models; the more glamorous Glamour timepieces; and the range of Classique watches.

Among these new models, the Heritage line is undoubtedly one of the most emblematic of the current revival of Tudor. The first breath of fresh air came with the new Hydro 1200, introduced in 2009—a very technical watch, which is water-resistant to 1200 metres and comes with a helium valve. The same year, the Grantour was to follow with its inspiration from the cars of the Grand Tourisme and its partnership with

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COVER STORY 9

TUDOR GLAMOUR DATE-DAY

Porsche Motorsport that sports a black lacquered steel bezel reminiscent of a dashboard and a strap in perforated leather.

The recent Tudor Heritage Chrono is the latest addition to the Tudor range and revisits the history of the brand throughout its design.

Inspired by the legendary Tudor Oysterdate from the 1970s, this automatic chronograph has been meticulously reworked right down to the slightest detail. Its size has changed, passing from the original 40 mm model to 42 mm for the current watch. Its design, while it conserves the essential ergonomic and sporty lines of the original piece, has been subtly retouched. The face remains perfectly recognizable: grey, black or black and grey dial; orange details; pentagonal white indexes modified to emphasize the three-dimensional effect. The central crown has been given protection, and the sides of the rotating bezel and the crown have been delicately knurled. The attaches of the bracelet have been totally redesigned to let the Tudor Heritage Chrono slip onto the wrist with either a steel bracelet with a safety clasp or with a new fabric strap, woven in black, grey and orange bands, whose clasp has been directly inspired from the safety belts of the epoch.

The consistency of this new strategy—to delve into the brand’s roots to better revitalize the brand—is strengthened even more by the new lines of the Glamour range, introduced last year, particularly those of the Tudor Glamour Date and Tudor Glamour DoubleDate models. In this case, it has not been the 1970s, but rather the 1960s that have been revisited. Characterized by a double bezel on two levels, classic circular guilloché dials, a small seconds counter delicately decorated with the stylized Tudor rose, hollowed out leaf

hands, date in a double window and domed sapphire crystal, the many variations of these elegant 42 mm masculine watches are waterresistant to 100 metres and are equipped with automatic mechanical movements.

For the long term This intensive reworking of the Tudor offer and the brand’s clearly defined and affirmed repositioning is supported by a definite competitiveness in terms of price, which ranges from €1,000 to €3,000 depending on the model and its material (all Tudor watches are 100 per cent mechanical and available in stainless steel or in bi-colour models). This means an exceptional price/quality ratio for the ‘Premium’

watch segment where Tudor is situated.

Because of its association with Rolex, Tudor can offer its clientele a wide network to provide quality and efficient after-sales services, guaranteed for the very long term.

With a vigorously affirmed repositioning in this new environment and a return to its historic roots allowing it to create a revisited offer in a very contemporary spirit, Tudor has given itself the means to reoccupy a very singular place. Following the recent economic crisis, the consumer has become more attentive to the various offers available in the marketplace and is more sensitive to long term viability and quality, thus Tudor’s timepieces should receive a warm reception. O

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12 MANUFACTURING europa star

THE SWISS WATCH PLANET IN MOVEMENT – PART 2

The explosion of manufacture movements In the first part of our extensive investigation into mechanical movements made in Switzerland (Europa Star 4/10), we examined a number of new initiatives designed to gradually replace ETA calibres, as well as the processes of verticalizing production being undertaken by the large brands, such as Cartier and TAG Heuer.

We continue this inquiry with a closer look at some of the other initiatives being carried out by brands that desire to master, in-house, all or part of their production of mechanical movements.

RPierre Maillard “We have to end the watchmaking supermarket.”

When questioned by Bastien Buss (Le Temps, 4th September 2010), this quote summed up the opinion of Nick Hayek, Director and Administrator of the Swatch Group, now presided over by his sister Nayla. Questioned two months after the death of his father, Hayek Jr repeated his determination “to stop delivery to some of our competitors who unabashedly draw from our industrial tool and who dupe their consumers.”

Hayek went on to vigorously declare that these brands, “not only lie to their clients but that a traffic in ETA movements also exists among the brands, a sort of parallel market that opens the door to all sorts of abuse.” To support his assertions, he brought up the

example of an ETA-made Valjoux movement that came in for after-sales service with “no less than four coded inscriptions from other watch brands outside of the Swatch Group, some of which are very well known to the public,” including movement blanks sold and resold by subcontractors and their brands.

The threat of discontinuing deliveries of ETA movements is becoming more serious even if, as Hayek himself stated, “it will perhaps take some time but we are quite hopeful that an agreement will be reached with COMCO [the Swiss commission for overseeing competition].”

And “time” is exactly what watch brands that are launching into the movement arena need—time to create their own in-house calibres capable of replacing the indestructible ETA and Valjoux workhorses.

It has become rather impossible to do a complete analysis of what is happening in the

domain of the movement, as we had promised in the last issue, because literally every day or at least every week, new movement initiatives are announced, with varying degrees of truthfulness. Thus, in this article, we examine a few of the more serious projects, nearly all of which will reach maturity this autumn.

THE UNICO BY HUBLOT With his usual fiery enthusiasm, Jean-Claude Biver details his strategy in terms of the movement, reminding us first that “to sell the irrational—since watchmaking today is something irrational because time is all around us—you need the rational, the substance. It is this substance that we are developing to create the dream. Without the rational, there is no irrational.”

By the “rational,” the “substance,” it is clear that he means the movement. In this domain,

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Biver wants to make advances, rapidly of course, but in a rational manner. “Our own movement, Unico, was designed and constructed to be totally interchangeable with the Valjoux 7750 chronograph, which since 2005 equips our Big Bang chronographs. The compatibility is total. The movement, dial, case, and hands are 100 per cent interchangeable.

It makes absolutely no difference if we place a Valjoux or a Unico into our pieces, whether for our own stock, that does not need to be adapted, or for our after-sales service. This standardization—which is also valid for our gauged tourbillons—offers many advantages in terms of internal profitability, and it allows us immediate reactivity.”

Chronograph at the top Having said that, the Unico, even though it is interchangeable with the Valjoux calibres, is nonetheless quite different in its conception (Valjoux’s design dates back to 1974), and is certainly not a clone. In fact, contrary to Valjoux, the Unico includes a column wheel.

Its main architectural characteristic, however, resides in the fact that the chronographic part of the movement, including the column wheel, has been placed on the top of the movement, and not under the oscillating weight that would conceal part of it. There is a reason for

MANUFACTURING 13

this, which is fundamental in Biver’s opinion.

“In the future, one of the impediments to counterfeiting could very well be the absence of a dial or a skeletonized dial since the movement will be visible,” he explains, adding, “If you can see the movement, then the counterfeiters will have to have the ability to copy it, which is not a small thing.”

Technically, Unico—which includes less component parts than the Valjoux 7750—has been designed for industrial production at a sustained rate of 10,000 to 15,000 pieces per year. As its constructor, Christophe Lyner, explains to Europa Star, they sought simplicity and solidity in view of optimal reliability in addition to facilitating, as far as possible, the assembly of the calibre’s 150 parts, of which some elements are pre-assembled (giving a total of 445 components, including pins,

14 MANUFACTURING

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THE CONFRÉRIE HORLOGÈRE HUBLOT Without going into detail about the collapse of BNB, let’s remember that Hublot, which was its principal client, purchased before its demise was announced the movements, stocks, several patents and hired 30 of its watchmakers. Then, after the failure, Hublot purchased the equipment leasing agreements and moved the machines to its own site. Mathias Buttet, the boss of the ex-BNB, packed up and arrived at Hublot along with the company’s machines and tools as well as 28 watchmakers who were masters in ten metiers: chemistry, cutting, constructor, etc.—in other words a true manufacture within a manufacture.

Since then, Hublot has been divided into two parts to produce two different types of movements: the Unico, on one hand, and pieces for Hublot’s haute horlogerie products on the other, comprising mainly tourbillons, minute repeaters, perpetual calendars, and exceptional pieces that were named the Confrérie Horlogère Hublot. These latter pieces “do not come directly from the DNA of Hublot,” as Biver himself admits, but they confer upon the brand an undeniable watchmaking legitimacy that benefits Hublot overall, without mentioning the many interactions and synergies that are developing between the two different units. It is a little like Hublot having a super research and development department that does not produce ‘theoretical’ works but that realizes innovative watchmaking concepts.

Among these concepts, Europa Star was able to see truly exceptional pieces that are planned for presention at BaselWorld next year: the already famous Clé du Temps, a really amazing variable speed movement whose case and design have been totally revisited, and another outstanding piece—on which we will return as soon as we can—that was inspired by the mysterious and fascinating Anticythère. This ‘astronomical machine’, dating back to more than 2,000 years ago, is the oldest geared machine in the world and represents an unprecedented savoir-faire. It was found in 1900 at the bottom of the seas near a small Greek island, which gives the machine its name.

screws, etc.). In the same vein, the absence of a jumper-spring means the watch assemblers do not have to carry out an indexation.

Among the various particularities of the Unico—4Hz, 30-mm diameter, 8.05-mm thickness, with more than 70 hours of power reserve—we note its double coupling (to reduce possible sources of failure), automation on ceramic ball bearings with the Pellaton system (providing better winding efficiency in both directions), and a totally HUBLOT’S KING POWER with UNICO MOVEMENT

interchangeable and movable escapement bridge (such as is found at Moser & Cie to facilitate global after-sales service), with a traditional assortment that equips the first 1,000 pieces or an assortment with silicon palettes and palettes wheel (a silicon balance spring is also under study).

Other notable characteristics include: a variable inertia balance in nickel phosphorus LIGA that is flat and easy to produce and adjust; a semi-instantaneous date on a Mimotec disc whose numbers, in relief, seem to float around the dial (a sapphire date is also under study); a dragging display; flyback function; double horizontal coupling and a stop seconds device.

Totally integrated, Unico nonetheless offers a modularity that, according to its constructor, will allow other future functions to be integrated in the place of, or “above”, the chronographic function. As Jean-Claude Biver says, “We have tried to do better than what existed earlier, to be more reliable and precise since what’s the point in doing something less good?” What does its constructor think?

“It is simpler than the 7750 and I think that it will be more solid and more reliable… at least in 30 years—that is for certain,” he adds with a smile, knowing full well that the quality of a movement will become clear over time.

First deliveries at the end of 2011 Announced for the end of the year, the Unico, which we must admit is quite attractive under its black ruthenium treatment, is in the ‘preindustrial’ phase and its production will gradually increase. An assembly atelier with some thirty posts is currently being installed. Ultramodern, it has lubrication robots—oiling is done with doses of compressed air—and precise quality control instruments. It is divided into separate stations, each carrying out several operations in lots of 20 to 50 pieces.

Most of the fabrication and treatment of the components—cutting, machining, electrolysis—is done in-house in a facility with brand new equipment. In all, the investments made for Unico are estimated to be around CHF 3 million.

ZENITH, EL PRIMERO ON TOP The famous El Primero movement is a veritable Phoenix, which continues to be reborn from its ashes and to spread its wings.

Designed in 1969, the El Primero calibre was one of the first four automatic chronograph movements (which were all introduced at the same time) but it alone beat at 36,000 vibrations per hour. It nearly disappeared for good, however, in 1975 when the owners at that

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16 MANUFACTURING

europa star

EL PRIMERO 1969

Charles Vermot

time—the American Zenith Radio Corporation —decided to move totally into quartz and to get rid of all the equipment and tools related to mechanical movements.

If Charles Vermot, a watchmaker at Zenith who could not bear to see all this treasure thrown away, had not decided to conserve not only all the production plans and procedures in a file folder but also to carefully label all the tools and equipment and to hide them in the attic of the manufacture, El Primero would today be nothing more than a fond memory, a glorious page from the history books of timekeeping.

But nine years later, in 1984, the new owner, Paul Castella, had all the machines brought out of storage and relaunched production of the highest ‘beating’ automatic chronograph in the world (ten vibrations per second— 36,000 per hour—compared to the traditional eight vibrations per second).

In 2000, Zenith was acquired by the LVMH group, which decided to reserve its famous movement exclusively for the brand and to discontinue its sale to other brands, notably

EL PRIMERO 36’000

Rolex whose Daytona model was driven by it.

Today, only TAG Heuer, another brand in the LVMH portfolio, receives the El Primero.

Appointed to head up the brand in order to assure its renaissance, Thierry Nataf, the first CEO of the LVMH era, can be credited with refocusing public attention on Zenith again.

But his creative compulsions along with the incessant introduction of new models and lines somewhat diluted the message. With all the media attention that was generated, the importance and the exceptional qualities of the El Primero movement faded into the background of the large bling bling cloud.

With the nomination of Jean-Frédéric Dufour in June 2009, the brand enjoyed a rapid return to its roots. Passing from some 800 references to 50 (112 with the other in-house movement, the Elite), the El Primero once again became the beating heart of Zenith, the centre of its attentions. The brand would now fully capitalize on its glorious past as a manufacture.

And this seems to be working rather well, according to Dufour. Since December 2009, the brand has seen 50 per cent growth, and its numbers are ‘in the black’ with a production that we can safely estimate to be around 25,000 pieces per year.

Finally showing the tenth of a second The most important demonstration of the grand comeback of the El Primero movement was the release of its already famous El Primero Striking 10th during BaselWorld 2010. Quite ‘naturally’ if we might use this term, it showcases the movement’s 36,000 vibrations per hour, which imposes ten jumps per second on its chronographic hand (one hour is made up of 3,600 seconds). Up to now, this feature had never been transformed into a tenth of a second indication visible on the dial. (For more precise technical information and the realization of this unique display, see Europa Star 3/10 or type

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18 MANUFACTURING europa star

El Primero Striking 10th into the search bar of our website, www.europastar.com).

This calibre—representing a truly emblematic return to the brand’s roots as envisioned by Jean-Frédéric Dufour (which goes along with a moderation of prices, the El Primero starting at CHF 5,600) —completes the El Primero range that already includes some ten chronographic models. Besides the basic models, these calibres include a flyback, the amusing Retrotimer with its eight-minute display (“for cooking pasta,” smiles Dufour), triple date, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, tourbillon, universal time with alarm (Multicity Alarm), the Grand Class Traveler with its 800 components, and a surprise to come, the amazing Christophe Colomb, which we will examine in our next issue.

Remodelling the manufacture Still located in the same facilities—as historic as they might be with their corridors, their stories, and their bridges, even though not particularly adapted to the demands of modern production—the manufacture is being transformed little by little. The most important renovations will mark the 150th anniversary of the brand in 2015.

For the moment, however, it is in this nostalgic maze where 250 people now work—and where, over the course of history, no less than 180 different calibres and 515 movement variations have been created—and produce the in-house calibres that equip 100 per cent of Zenith watches. Of the 356 components of an

El Primero movement, 280 are thus made at the facility, while they are all assembled here.

Like the journey a watch makes through this manufacture, a visit to the site is made in much the same disorder, if we might say so. We start with the movement development department where constructors, technical drawers and watchmaker-prototypists all work side by side.

While the decor might be a bit antiquated, the instruments—notably for control and measure—are all cutting edge. One example is the high-speed camera (30,000 images per second) used with the latest generation of Witschi test beds that have been specially developed to check the very specific movements beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour.

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Among the wooden compartments covered in dust, Dufour shows us one that is empty.

This is where all the tools and ébauches that were responsible for the renaissance of the El Primero calibre slept, hidden away. But now, the ‘Sleeping Beauty is finally waking up.

Everywhere we go—whether in the products department that brings all the components together, in the ébauche ateliers where the CNC machines function in three eight-hour shifts, seven days a week, in the sections where the small components are cut out, in the mechanical ateliers where all the stamps and other tools are made, in the pre-assembly or assembly rooms, or in the haute horlogerie department (tourbillons, perpetual dates, perpetual calendars, minute repeaters)—we cannot help but notice the multiplicity of check points for testing and regulating. There are 60 such points in all, including those relating to the case. Jean-Frédéric Dufour insists especially on this point: “Authenticity facilitates life,” he says, “because it allows us to look at ourselves in the mirror every morning. This authenticity, which presupposes optimal quality, reliability, and precision—therefore a multiplication of checks and verifications—is in the brand’s genes. Since its beginnings, the clients of Zenith have been individuals who have sought, above all, this precision and these levels of performance. Historically, most were pioneers in this domain, as our golden book testifies with messages from a certain Admundsen or Blériot or even Albert 1st of Monaco before he left for his oceanographic explorations, or even captains of industry.”

The ‘Sleeping Beauty is waking up Dufour goes on to explain, “We must be up to the level of this history, at the height of the 2,333 prizes awarded by the Observatory and the 297 patents recorded by the brand. With the demand for precision and reliability primordial for us, the decoration of our pieces only represents five to ten per cent of their value, while at some brands, this may climb to 50 per cent of their value. I believe, with others such as Rolex, for example, that an excess of decoration is sometimes the enemy of precision. For instance, to hand bevel—as skilful as it may be—a steel part that comes out of a CNC machine adjusted to the nearest micron may be nonsense and a source of perturbation in the precision that we strive for so dearly.”

The return of Zenith to its fundamentals seems thus to be well underway. Making a detour down one of the corridors, Jean-Frédéric Dufour takes us to an out-of-the-way room, seemingly abandoned. Following him, we climb the stairs to finally arrive in the attic. “Look here!

You are the first journalist to come here,” he confides. In an atmosphere befitting Harry Potter, and on carefully labelled shelves, lie all the tools and stamps that have fashioned the long history of Zenith. It is a veritable treasure that asks only to be brought back to life.

Some of the Bulgari/Gérald Genta and Bulgari/Daniel Roth movements

THE FIRST STEPS OF BULGARI’S CALIBRE 168 Operation ‘Calibre 168’ (named thusly because it comprises 168 components) began in earnest for Bulgari in 2007, the year the Roman brand purchased the machines, production tools, and the intellectual property necessary to make its first in-house calibre.The main aim of this operation was “not to reinvent the wheel,” says Guido Terreni, Director of Operations of the Watch Business Unit at Bulgari, “but to offer the brand the means to master the fabrication of a basic tractor, a motor that could evolve and thus give Bulgari an additional step towards watchmaking legitimacy.”

In parallel to the Calibre 168 program, the progressive acquisition of watchmaking legitimacy has passed by a series of investments and complementary acquisitions, beginning of course with that of Roth and Genta in 2000, which allowed the brand “to grow and strengthen the watch culture at the heart of the group,” even though up until last year, these two entities had not yet been directly integrated into Bulgari’s production.

In 2005, it was the turn of Cadran Design to pass into the fold of the group. Cadran Design was already making all the dials, often quite complex, for Roth and Genta, and enjoys Guido Terreni

© SWAROVSKI 2010

WWW.SWAROVSKI.COM/WATCHES

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identity. For its public introduction, this movement equips the new Sotirio Bulgari collection that sells for CHF 6,500 in its steel version.

Gradual rise in strength

unequalled savoir-faire in this domain. That same year, with the goal of gradually acquiring the know-how necessary for the complete fabrication of a watch, Bulgari purchased Prestige d'Or, a Jurassian company fabricating bracelets and clasps. Finally, in 2007, Bulgari acquired the case maker, Finger, a specialist in very complicated and technical cases with high added value such as, for example, the 104-component case of the Diagono Sport with three time zones.

A ‘tractor’ Judging from the specifications of the Calibre 168, it seems that, from the very beginning, the group wanted to create a basic automatic-winding calibre that would be “practical and capable of evolving,” equipped with a torque powerful enough to later receive various complicated modules. Among the other demands, this calibre had to be designed and constructed to assure optimal chronometric performance, while being produced on an industrial scale, in ‘sizeable’ volumes—in other words several thousand pieces.

The plans of this 11.5’’’ line movement, with an encased diameter of 25.60 mm and a total thickness of 4.75 mm, were in existence but they had never been realized. These are the plans—the intellectual property—that Bulgari

bought in order to develop internally. And, thanks to its new production apparatus, all of the in-house components for its new calibre are made by Bulgari, with the exception of the assortment (Nivarox), barrel spring and the stones.

In view of the solidity and rigidity of this movement, with very classic architecture and finishings, as well as the fact that it is destined to receive additional modules in the future, the bridges and plates are made in nickel silver, a very hard and resistant high-end alloy that is complex to work with. The cross-wise balance bridge assures working stability and rigidity of the balance. Moreover, this 4-Hz movement, thus beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, possesses a winding system with a bi-directional oscillating weight, and offers the traditional 42 hours of working reserve. It is also equipped with an automatic winding coupling device when the watch is wound manually, thus decreasing the risk of premature aging in the gears.

In its current version, its finishings are very classic in nature (circular-grained plate and palettes bridge, 3/4 bridge engraved with the Côtes de Genève design, spiral design on the barrel drum, beveled bridge edges). It also displays hours, minutes, seconds, and a central date using a hand that jumps instantaneously, which also gives the watch a characteristic

Today, Bulgari is finalizing its first pre-series before increasing its industrial strength, scheduled to take place starting at the beginning of 2011. “A few thousand pieces” will be produced in the short term, a matter of “feeling out the markets,” as Guido Terreni explains.

Another point of action, still in the domain of the mechanical movement, is the integration of the two brands from Le Sentier—Roth and Genta—in an offer specifically signed Bulgari/Daniel Roth or Bulgari/Gérald Genta.

This integration, which was at the time highly criticized by the purists, has apparently been “well received by the public.” Guido Terreni

FRENCH EXCEPTION: THE FORMIDABLE CALIBRE ROYAL FROM PEQUIGNET The Calibre Royal, courageously initiated by Didier Leibundgut, the owner of Pequignet, is an automatic movement beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour.

Composed of 298 parts, it has been completely conceived, designed, prototyped, tested and assembled in Pequignet’s ateliers in Morteau (France).

Its main characteristics make this an exceptional automatic movement, totally integrated and designed to receive, without additional plates, new complications such as: automatic winding in both directions; distribution of the initial force by a central axis of the large barrel; large balance with compensating screws; large date and day without loss of amplitude during activation; calculated power reserve of 100 hours; indication on the dial of 88 hours of power reserve of which 72 are guaranteed in terms of isochronism (amplitude of 220° in the vertical position after 72 hours of working); small seconds at 4 o’clock to aesthetically balance the position of the power reserve indicator.

The production and assembly tool are currently being set up and the first watches equipped with this calibre should attract a lot of attention when they are presented in November or December of this year. Starting in 2010, Pequignet expects to strengthen its position with the realization of 300 to 400 movements per month.

EL PRIMERO STRIKING 10th Swiss manufactured high frequency chronograph (patent N° ep 1 499 929 b1)

ZENITH, OBSESSION WITH PRECISION SINCE 1865 www.zenith-watches.com

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vigorously defends the importance of this integration that is allowing “these two brands to move out of their niche” and to “defend this exceptional patrimony of savoir-faire through the power of the Bulgari group.”

Unlike before, these two particular collections are now being presented and sold in Bulgari’s many flagship stores.

For the moment, at least, the Calibre 168 will not equip the Roth and Genta complications, which still use Girard-Perregaux and Frédéric Piguet calibres, with the exception of the grand complications (such as the Grande Sonnerie, for example), realized entirely in-house by the 70 employees in Le Sentier.

THE CALIBRE 38 FAMILY OF ETERNA In looking at the birth of the new Calibre 38 or, more precisely, at the new Calibre 38 family, we note that Eterna is a brand selling about 25,000 watches a year and one that wants to offer its clients a large variety of in-house movements without, however, having to totally rethink from scratch each of its movements individually.

Before the introduction of the Calibre 38, Eterna’s in-house movements accounted for approximately 15 to 20 per cent of its offer— 4,000 to 5,000 movements—but this percent-

age should increase significantly starting with the launch of the Calibre 38 family.

The Calibre 38 has thus been revisited in a very clever and intelligent way, serving as a platform with a manual base, equipped with a flying barrel on ball bearings (the famous Spherodrive system created by Eterna), which, before the addition of the barrel bridge, is totally assembled, adjusted and regulated.

This platform or base can then take an impressive series of variations that can be very easily added.

With the simple addition of the barrel bridge, the Calibre 38 is thus transformed into the Calibre 3810, with three hands and small seconds at 9 o’clock.

Four steps in the assembly of the two-barrel Calibre 3510

With the addition of another module, it becomes the 3820, a calibre with three hands and small seconds at the centre. In the same way the 3821 has a calendar; the 3822 has a 24-hour hand for a second time zone; the 3823 becomes a calendar with date indicated by a central hand, etc.

The Calibre 3840, with small seconds, becomes an automatic movement by the simple addition of an automatic functioning system, while the Calibre 3850 is identical to it but with a seconds hand at the centre.

In all these cases, it is not a matter of adding plates but rather of integrations into the

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The seven in-house Eterna movements: Above, left: the automatic Calibre 3030 with the flattest large date and instantaneous calendar in its category.

Above, right: the Calibre 3800 with barrel drum, core and winders on ceramic ball bearings.

Second row from top; far left: the manual-winding rectangular Calibre 3500/3501 with ceramic ball bearings.

Centre: the Calibre 3505 with its barrel and barrel arbour mounted on ball bearings.

Far right: the Calibre 3510 with two barrels coupled in series and mounted on ball bearings.

First row; left: the Calibre 6036 chronograph with four barrels and an entirely mechanical digital display, developed from an ETA Valjoux 7750 calibre. Centre: the Calibre 6037 GMT developed from an ETA Valgranges A 07 111 (CR) calibre.

movement. On the other hand, the addition of plates will allow, by 2012 or 2013, the creation of the Calibre 3830, a manual chronograph, and the Calibre 3860, an automatic chronograph. In this rather amazing design, the base never changes, “not a single screw,” proudly declares Patrick Kury, Eterna’s Technical Director, who adds that “the modular systems are always added to the movement side,” the barrel bridge being “at their disposition” if we can call it that since “the flying barrel of the Spherodrive is already integrated into the base.

Therefore, there is no need to change the plate for each adaptation. The basic movement does not move.” This design obviously offers great advantages in terms of production.

In addition, whether the manual or automatic version, this 30-mm movement—with its 5.9mm thickness (manual) or 7.5-mm thickness (automatic, although this number is not definitive)—possesses a similar large power reserve. In the manual mode, it is 76 hours while in the automatic mode, the working reserve is 72 hours.

Flexibility and reactivity As Patrick Schwarz (former Finance Director at Maurice Lacroix and CEO of Eterna since 2005) explains, “This particular design offers us great advantages in terms of competitiveness and reactivity. Thanks to its flexibility, our stock management is also greatly facilitated, since we can easily use different combinations.

By producing basic movements, already adjusted, I can strongly state that it is possible for us to react very quickly—whether in terms of functionality, the choice of manual or automatic modes, having a central seconds or small seconds hand—as a function of the precise demands coming from the markets.

There is no need to produce pieces two years in advance that may become obsolete or outof-date when they arrive at the stores.”

From an economic point of view, this design is also very advantageous since its modularity and flexibility can offer in-house movements well below the price generally demanded by the market. Patrick Schwarz understands the current attitude of the Swatch Group because

“it is the only one to have invested in the technical and production tools, and we see the same ETA calibre sold at greatly differing prices.

But the consumer, burned because of the crisis, is gradually becoming aware of this, even if he or she still prefers to buy a name and a face.

Many brands are now forced to envision the production of movements that they earlier purchased as turn-key pieces. And behind these decisions, there is a strong economic reality.

Investing in a movement costs a lot of money and takes a lot of time. It also taps into resources that would earlier have been devoted to communication. With the Calibre 38 and the Spherodrive, we have moved ahead of the others, and we are very happy about that.”

The official introduction of the first Calibre 38 is expected in 2011, although production is currently underway with some pre-series.

[Editor’s note: we unfortunately cannot provide any illustrations since Eterna wants to save all communication for their launch.]

At the origins of ETA Inside the Eterna manufacture, which employs approximately 75 people, is a team that is dedicated to this project. Most of the operations— design, construction, fabrication of ébauches, bridges and plates, industrialization and preassembly, assembly and encasing are done at this facility. On the other hand, milling, stamping and cutting are sub-contracted out. Nivarox supplies the assortment for this movement, which will be subject to COSC certification.

And then the question we invariably ask, “Is this movement reserved for Eterna or do you

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intend to sell it to third parties?” Patrick Schwarz answers candidly, “Over the next few years, it will be reserved for us, but after that, all options are open.” As we listen to his answer, we reflect on Eterna’s prestigious mechanical past, most notably its invention of the ball bearings for the oscillating weight in 1948 and its location in Granges (the same as ETA). It is worth remembering that ETA was born from the fusion of the group of Swiss ébauche makers (ASUAG) that Eterna joined in 1932, date at which its ébauche division was renamed ETA. In fact, ETA is the name that was historically engraved on the Eterna movements intended for outside use.

THE NEW BASE OF SCHWARZ ETIENNE Remember this name: Raphaël Radicchi.

Owner of Schwarz Etienne since 2008, this Italian, who made a fortune in real estate in the canton of Neuchâtel, became so enamoured with watchmaking that he formed— without anyone really realizing it—a veritable and ‘verticalized’ small watch group capable of independently assuring ‘more than 85 per cent’ of the steps in the production of a watch.

Besides Schwarz Etienne, to which we will return below, Raphaël Radicchi controls: RSM SA, a maker of cases, bracelets, and clasps, which employs nearly 30 people; RM Horlogerie SA, which fabricates bridges, plates and milling tools; and Anglex SA, which, as its name implies, specializes in the decoration of movements. The only things missing from his portfolio are the dials, hands, crystals, leathers and small cutting pieces.

With the strength of this production tool, he created an original basic automatic movement called BSE1325A, which will equip the brand’s models but which can also serve as an alternative for third-party brands wanting to vary their sources of movement supplies.

The quantities for now are still modest— 1,000 movements in 2010 and between 2,000 and 3,000 in 2011—but the goals are ambitious.

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Founded in 1904, Schwarz Etienne has long been recognized for its production of movements and mechanisms, supplying notably many prestigious French brands until the quartz revolution put an end to its mechanical adventure. The company then struggled to survive but in 1992, it introduced the first models under its own name. In 1993, Raphaël Radicchi purchased 50 per cent of the enterprise and in 2008, he acquired the entire company. He immediately launched his grand project of verticalizing the production of movements.

An intelligent base The BSE1325-A (which denotes the Schwarz Etienne Base 133/4''' series A) is a very interesting calibre that is very compact and innovative in many respects. Right away, we note two of its main characteristics—a very large barrel coupled with a very small rotor. This microrotor, made of tungsten carbide (a very hard material that resists wear and tear particularly well) has a decentralized axis and is mounted on ball bearings. Coupled to the large barrel, it offers the movement a large power reserve of 80 hours. Designed first of all with the idea of being able to later become a chronographic movement, it already disposes of the holes to accommodate this future device. The countersinks in the plate have also been designed to

BSE-GMT LONDON / ROMA by Schwarz Etienne

allow this calibre to receive various possible ‘options’ at the request of the client. It also offers the possibility of passing very easily from manual winding to automatic mode or to suitably adapt the form of the bridges.Another particularity is that the gear train is placed at the bottom of the plate, thus making space inside the movement and reducing the thickness— 5.05 mm for the basic model and 6.25 mm for the future chronographic version. Beating at 21,600 vibrations per hour (3Hz), it lacks a regular index but has a balance that is adjustable using four screws. Moreover, it is equipped with a Straumann (Precision Engineering) spring ending in a Breguet curve and lateral steel palettes with a snap-rim system.

Finally, as is the case with all the movements that equip Schwarz Etienne watches, the BSE1325-A is subject to COSC certification.

Two models complete this basic three-hand movement, with small seconds at 6 o’clock and small date at 3 o’clock. The first is the module BSE-GMT supplying a second time zone with a central 24-hour hand, whose corrections are made using a crown with two notches. The second module, the BSE-GD replaces the small date with a large date situated at 12 o’clock.

In addition, it can be noted that Schwarz Etienne proposes two modules designed to complete the basic ETA 7750 movement, either with a second time zone with a central hand (VSE-GMT), or with a retrograde date indicated by a central hand that travels between 7 o’clock and 1 o’clock, as well as a retrograde seconds hand over 30 seconds at 9 o’clock (VSE-REQS). These two models are very easy to assemble and require no mechanical intervention on the basic movement since they are supplied with a bridge that can simply replace the traditional upper bridge of the 7750.

This is definitely a company to follow, with its first in-house movements equipping the new Schwarz Etienne collections. The BSE-GMT drives the very classic London line, a simple and very readable tonneau timepiece. As for the BSE-GD, it is found in the new round and classically finished Roma line. Well proportioned, its large date at 12 o’clock balances the small seconds at 6 o’clock. The brand’s wonderful adventure is just beginning.

THE B01 FROM BREITLING The history of Breitling, as we know, rests mainly on precision watches and the chronograph. As an example and small reminder, it was Breitling that invented the two independent pushpieces that became the norm for modern chronographs, that of the activation pushbutton in 1923 and that of the return-tozero button in 1934.

Breitling has also moved ahead in the domain of the movement, having anticipated the closure of the ETA ‘faucet’, especially that of the Valjoux 7750. To get an idea of the brand’s early strategy to create its own chronographic movement, we need to go back to 1997 when Breitling acquired Kelek, the renowned specialist in modular chronographic mechanisms and principal supplier to the brand in this segment. Becoming ‘Chronométrie Breitling’, this fully integrated entity has supplied the design tools that allowed for the development of the B01.

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From the beginning, this movement was designed for production on an industrial scale in large quantities. The design thus integrated not only the internal architecture and the construction of the movement but also the production methods for tens of thousands of pieces. It is estimated that the production tool located in La Chaux-de-Fonds has a capacity of approximately 50,000 B01 movements per year. All of Breitling’s movements are subjected to COSC certification and in 2009, the brand certified 68,687 mechanical watches and 39,533 quartz watches. This places Breitling in third place after Rolex with 607,512 COSC-certified watches and Omega with 187,558. (Note: In 2009 there was a global decline of 27 per cent in the number of pieces certified by the COSC compared to 2008.)

Simplify production, streamline after-sales service The industrial demands have thus dictated the construction and certain specifications of the B01 automatic chronograph calibre in order to facilitate both the production and the after-sales service maintenance—in addition to its intrinsic performance and reliability.

In this regard, a new patented self-centring device for the return-to-zero hammers exempts the watchmaker from having to intervene manually on each movement in order to precisely adjust this function. An apparently modest development, but when combined with many others, it allows the brand to gradually optimize its production. A certain number of changes have also been made for the wearer,

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32 MANUFACTURING europa star

such as an exclusive special regulator assembly that allows the watch to be adjusted according to the type of wearer (since we know that the watch of a very active person does not react in the same way as that of a mainly sedentary person). Also for ease in usage, the instantaneous calendar of the B01 can be corrected at any time, without running the risk of damaging the movement.

The production chain (currently installed in a 6,000 square-metre facility), drawing inspiration from other industrial sectors, is totally commanded by software that automatically shuttles the movement during assembly to the next station where it undergoes either an automatic operation or a manual intervention.

Five years of development (and millions of francs of investment) have allowed Breitling to not necessarily reinvent the wheel—the lovely B01 is a traditional integrated automatic chronograph with column wheel and vertical coupling, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour, with an excellent power reserve of 72 hours—but to attain a certain degree of autonomy, thus guaranteeing its independence for the tumultuous years to come, especially in the domain of the movement.

TO FOLLOW: PART III The landscape in terms of movements is in a great period of development and expansion, thus making it nearly impossible to look at everything happening now (unless we devote the entire magazine to this topic).We will come back to this subject in our next issue, Europa Star 6/10, and conclude our vast investigation with a third series on what is taking place in the realm of haute horlogerie and speciality timepieces. In particular, we will examine: Aghenor (Atelier Genevois d'Horlogerie), creator of many complications and especially retrograde displays; Christophe Claret, the reference in the field of high complications; the Concepto Watch Factory and various watchmakers such as the Artisans Horlogers (Laurent Besse) who participated in the development of the Mémoire 1 by Maurice Lacroix. O

CITIZEN TAKES THE OFFENSIVE WITH ITS LAUNCH OF THE FIRST IN A NEW SERIES OF AUTOMATIC 9000 CALIBRES Citizen’s recent offensive in the domain of the mechanical movement has, without a doubt, been motivated primarily by purely strategic Japanese necessities—challenging Seiko, its principal competitor, which has taken the advance with its Spring Drive and its Grand Seiko mechanical lines—yet it probably also demonstrates the start of a restructuring aimed at targeting the international market.

To celebrate its 80th anniversary, Citizen presented recently a new line called The Citizen, which is equipped with a new automatic mechanical movement, the Calibre 9015. As Citizen itself declares, this calibre is just the first in a long series of developments and variations of the new family of Citizen 9000 Calibres that are already in the pipeline. The Calibre 9100, a 131/2"' automatic with a thickness of 5.52 mm, features a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, day at 9 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, date at 4:30, and a 24-hour counter at 6 o’clock. It should be available in the marketplace by the end of 2010.

But let’s return to the first calibre in the series, the 9015. An evolution of the economical Calibre 82, it is an 111/2"' automatic, measuring 26 mm in diameter with a thickness of 3.9 mm (obtained thanks to the reconfiguration of the 82 gears). It features 28,800 vibrations per hour, 24 jewels, and the display of hours, minutes, and central seconds. The date is shown in a window at 3 o’clock. The working reserve is 42 hours, and its working accuracy is between -10 seconds to +30 seconds per day. It is also equipped with a stop-second system and its balance is mounted on the brand’s famous anti-shock system, the Parashock, which was developed more than fifty years ago.

With its very classically styled architecture, the Calibre 82 was created as a direct alternative to the ETA 2892—a fact not denied by Citizen, whose managers declare that “this newcomer to the marketplace will provide a challenge to Swiss mechanical movements in the future and it will have a major impact on the market.”

In this perspective, Citizen, with its extensive experience in the creation of movements—both quartz and mechanical, which are sold under the label Miyota—demonstrates its capabilities in the area of mass production, thanks to its expertise in assembly-line systems and its strict quality control procedures. Another advantage, according again to the brand’s managers, is that Citizen has an extremely advanced vertical integration. All component parts of the new calibre are thus totally produced and assembled in-house, including the spring, which assures the Japanese watchmaker complete mastery over its supply. This guarantees continuity in production as well as control over costs.

The future will tell if this new series—for the moment reserved for the all new The Citizen line—will succeed in making inroads into the international domain. Whatever happens, however, these calibres will provide a classic, robust, and certainly very credible alternative when it comes to selecting a movement. (P.M.)

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Elegance is more than an attitude, it’s a trend Here at Europa Star, we have been talking about a return to ‘normalcy’ and a move away from the crazy watches that typified the ‘anything goes’ period right before the financial meltdown. As part of this fiscal sanity, elegant and traditional watches are making a big comeback.

RKeith W. Strandberg

D

Dismissed a few years ago as boring and unexciting, these watches are becoming the staple they used to be – elegant, traditional designs that can stay in a watch brand’s line, or a retailer’s window, for years with only slight tweaks and updates.

For retailers, it’s more important than ever to have examples of classic elegant watches in your display cases, as customers are turning back to tried and true timepieces as a backlash against the outlandish, and hedge on the future.

Is it really a trend?

Classic and elegant watches have been a staple for many brands, but companies are seeing a renewed interest. "Asians and Chinese men in particular like simple, understated and elegant watches," says Philippe LeopoldMetzger, Chief Executive Officer, Piaget. "In the rest of the world the recession has generated a return towards more classical shapes and watches.

"For Piaget, elegance is an intrinsic part of our DNA," he continues. "In fact, our passion for ultra thin mechanical movements has only one objective: to allow us to design slim and beautiful watches. Therefore we will continue to do what we do best."

As flashy watches and here-today, gone-

ALTIPLANO VINTAGE by Piaget PATEK PHILIPPE OFFICER'S-STYLE CALATRAVA, REF. 5153J A sapphire crystal case back with hinged dust cover reveals the mechanical self winding movement with date - Calibre 324 S C. The 38 mm, 18 carat yellow gold case features a centre sweep second hand, silvery opaline dial with hand guilloché centre, applied gold hour markers and a handstitched alligator strap.

tomorrow styles fade, understated watches are coming to the forefront.

“We have seen more interest in classic, elegant watches,” confirms Larry Pettinelli, President, Patek Philippe North America.

“When the market goes through ups and downs, people tend to go back to basic and classic designs and steer away from wilder designs that might not be in vogue five or ten years from now. That is good for companies

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like Patek Philippe. Part of it is due to the economic turbulence. People are watching what they spend, and they tend to spend on things with more long term value.

“The nature of our brand is elegant, classic watches,” he continues. “Thierry Stern has been willing to stretch the boundaries, but they all still have the Patek Philippe spirit. Everyone is very conscious that all our watches need to feel like a Patek Philippe.”

“There has been an assertion for brands that have their essence in pure, sober and classical pieces,” says Marc A. Hayek, President of Montres Jaquet Droz SA. “Classic is not only a trend, but timeless, with sure lasting values.

The trend of extremes, besides the brands where it is their DNA, is slowing down.”

Slim and tasteful is in. “There is definitely an increasing offer by many Swiss watch brands of classic, elegant watches,” says David Vallata, Managing Director,Asia Pacific, Carl F. Bucherer.

“Compared with three - four years back, more

MANERO COLLECTION by Carl F. Bucherer THE ECLIPSE by Jaquet Droz

classical watches, in a smaller size, slimmer, with a simple design in 18 carat gold, have completed the brands’ collections.

“There is a shift of focus from developed watch markets such as the US, Europe and Japan to developing markets such as China or India,” he continues. “In these markets, consumers’ tastes can be compared with tastes in developed markets 15-20 years back. In many cases, these consumers are new to Swiss watch brands and are therefore more interested in classical watches, believing that this reflects a longer lasting purchasing decision and in many cases a belief that these watches will keep the value and can be considered an investment. But also consumers in developed watch markets are again looking more and more for watches with a timelessly reduced design and watches that are not short-lived

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fashion statements, but represent lasting values and fascinate its wearer year after year.”

Vintage looks are also in vogue, though updates for size and modern touches are a must.

“Even though there is a constant demand for classic, elegant watches, we have noticed an increased demand,” says Patrick Schwarz, CEO, Eterna/Porsche Design. “Especially purist designs from the 1950s and 1960s are clearly in vogue. As we have witnessed it in the past, there is always a return to the fundamentals, to the real values when times are harder.

Customers rather invest in lasting values such as timeless classic designs.”

Watches that are timeless are intrinsically more valuable. “During and after difficult times (for not to say the ugly word crisis), it is quite natural for human beings to orientate themselves again towards traditional and safe values,” explains Jan Edöcs, President, Milus.

“And they are looking again for a perceived value in all aspects of life.”

IWC is proud of its classic roots and designs.

“Classical elegance is not a trend; on the contrary, it is the epitome of timelessness and will therefore always be up to date,” explains Christian Knoop, Creative Director of IWC.

36 GLAMOUR europa star

“The IWC brand stands for elegant, timeless watches. Demand remains as high as ever, as confirmed by the new Portuguese models, which have been extremely popular. Classical, elegant timepieces will remain an important mainstay of the IWC collection for many years to come.”

Ralph Lauren introduced an interesting collection of very classical designs, which has been perfect for today’s market. “In these times, customers are returning to fundamentals and seeking timepieces that represent authenticity, longevity and functionality,” says Guy Châtillon, CEO, Ralph Lauren Watch & Jewellery Co. “High quality watches with slender silhouettes, classic dimensions and the essential functions are in line with today’s demand for timeless goods of enduring relevance and true values.”

For Jaeger-LeCoultre, classic has never gone out of style. “Interest in classic, elegant watches has never been something that has dwindled,” says Jérôme Lambert, President, Jaeger-LeCoultre.

“Even when larger and sportier watches were at their peak in popularity, the backbone of fine watchmaking remained in the classic and elegant lines. Now, a classic watch doesn't

MADISON EIGHT-DAYS by Eterna TIRION TriRetrograde Seconds – TIRI010 by Milus 45 mm, 9-part case, stainless steel, Swiss mechanical movement in an exclusive special version, automatic winding, retrograde seconds in 3 sectors of 20 seconds each, date display at 6 o’clock, dial made of two distinctive parts: hour circle and motion work with stamped decoration of centric waves and centre with sun-stamped decoration, blue numerals, faceted skeleton hands partially coated with white SuperLuminova, open inner area ø 26 mm, curved sapphire crystal, sapphire crystal case back secured with 6 screws, skeleton oscillating weight in the form of the Milus logo with the brand symbol, water-resistant to 3 ATM and black alligator strap.

need to be simple, but rather it's classic if it combines the history of fine watchmaking (something Jaeger-LeCoultre prides itself on as a 177 year old manufacture) with the new innovations of today’s world. Elegance is wearing a beautiful and perfectly made watch. That will never go out of style.”

Who is benefiting?

Companies who already had a classical aspect to their brands are reaping the rewards, as they

do not have to hustle to meet this market demand. Companies like Patek Philippe, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, Frédérique Constant, Hamilton, Oris, Omega and many others are in a great position to take advantage of the current market trend towards classicism.

On the other hand, you have the companies that were pushing the envelope when it came to design that are struggling. Hautlence, a high watchmaking company with interesting designs, responded quickly to this trend by introducing a more traditional round watch, which has begun to sell quite well. Guillaume Tetu, Hautlence’s COO, noticed that the market was moving away from non-traditional shapes, which Hautlence’s original HL definitely was, so the round version has picked up customers the brand never had before.Add to this the fact that Hautlence has also introduced some ladies versions and sales are really picking up.

"Generally speaking, many brands were offering - in the recent years - very spectacular

RUE R OYALE C o l l e c t i o n CALIBRE ROYAL

featuring multiple integrated complications. Fully designed and built in Pequignet’s Haute Horlogerie laboratory. This unique 13 ¾ Calibre, with a maximum thickness of just 5.88 mm, houses all complications on its original main plate: Double Large Day and Date Windows, 88-hour Power Reserve Indicator, Large Moon Phase and dual direction automatic winding system. 21,600 oscillations/hour (3 Hz).

Initial force distribution by a central large barrel axis. High-inertia large balance with compensating screws. These features create an exceptionally accurate and reliable timepiece. This masterpiece of watchmaking innovation and technology represents Plato’s “Beauty is the splendour of the truth”, when the multiple complications of Haute Horlogerie combine in perfect symmetry and elegance.

Tel. +33 (0)3 81 67 30 66 - Contact : patleibundgut@pequignet.com www.pequignet.com

38 GLAMOUR europa star

products, with extroverted aesthetics and somehow ‘show off’ character," says Christian Selmoni, Product Marketing Director,Vacheron Constantin. "Then, the financial turmoil suddenly arrived and caused a major change in most clients’ minds: probably this is how and why we came so quickly back to classic watches. However, in reality, many famous houses of watchmaking, often with a long history, were still making classic timepieces even during the ‘bling era’! In conclusion, the financial crisis has put a spotlight on such classic, elegant products that were still very alive and present in their collections. Of course, it was especially the case for Vacheron Constantin. Our classic timepieces have always been very popular, and so the present situation can be perceived as a recognition for our efforts and consistency."

“I don't think this means that the outlandish, crazy watches no longer have a market, but it has definitely gotten smaller,” adds Rolando

STIRRUP CHRONOGRAPH by Ralph Lauren PORTUGUESE CHRONOGRAPH by IWC

Braga, President of Armand Nicolet. “New designs have a place in the market, especially in fashion watches. The interest is really strong in traditional, prestigious Swiss watch brands.

“Copying the geometrical shapes of the new designs, like the cheap productions from the Far East do with the newer styles of watches, is much easier than copying the traditional classic finishing that can be created only by using the know-how and expertise that belong to the handcrafting capability of the classic Swiss watch industry. So people who buy expensive and sophisticated watches feel safer when selecting products that are more difficult to copy.” Continues Braga Traditional, classic companies have also been able to focus on time-tested horological and artisanal techniques as well, like enamelling, cloisonné, miniature painting, lacquer and

more – traditional arts that add value to the tried and true designs, making these watches even more desirable.

“There is a different watch for every different person in the world,” says Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Lambert. “I will never say that it is time for any watch to be over. If Asian countries, like China, for example, love the classical size, some other growing territories like South America are fond of big, technical watches like the Master Compressor Extreme Lab 2.”

The watches Here are some examples of traditional watches that are currently best sellers: Piaget: “The Altiplano is the best selling model on a strap," says Leopold Metzger. "It has a simplicity that people love, and really is design-wise a perfect mix between modernity and tradition."

Patek Philippe: “Our best selling elegant watch for men is the 5153, it’s round and elegant, has a lot of great detail,” says Pettinelli.

“It’s this kind of watch where the artisans can showcase their abilities. Putting the hunting case back on takes them between two to four days just to get it right. The old 96 model,

Impetus VI

masterpieces

Treasure the past, embrace the future | www.titoni.ch

40 GLAMOUR europa star

one of the iconic styles of Patek Philippe, is now in the 5396 and the 5296, and that is a great, clean look for us. On the ladies side, the 7119, it’s classic. The ~24 is also one of our best sellers.”

Jaeger-LeCoultre: “The Reverso is not just a classic and elegant watch, it tells a story, it has tradition,” says Lambert. “Each tick of a Reverso watch reminds its wearer that they are not just wearing a classic watch, but a bit of watchmaking history.”

Vacheron Constantin: “Our best-selling classic model is undoubtedly the ‘Patrimony Contemporaine,’ which is a very pure and an ‘essential’ timepiece, with a manual or self-winding in-house movement," says Selmoni. "This timepiece is the perfect example of our ‘timeless classicism’ design: a contemporary size with a diameter of 40mm, and almost minimalist aesthetics with references to our brand's iconic creations of the '50s such as the ‘pearl’ minute-track. The Patrimony Contemporaine is becoming a real icon in our collections and its success is still growing year after year."

Ralph Lauren: "In general, the Stirrup has been the most popular with its heritage aes-

GRAND REVERSO DUO DATE by Jaeger-LeCoultre PATRIMONY TRADITIONNELLE by Vacheron Constantin

thetic, however there has also been a strong response to the Slim Classique models with their refined look and genuine guilloché craftsmanship,” says Châtillon.

IWC: “The Portuguese Chronograph Ref. 3714 is our most popular model,” says Knoop.

“Its large, clear-cut dial, the timeless, inconspicuous design, the moderate height of the case and the fact it lies in our medium price range, have all played a role. Incidentally, the Portuguese Chronograph is also very popular with women.”

Eterna: “Today, Vaughan is definitely our best seller, a timeless elegant automatic watch featuring the proprietary Eterna movement calibre 3030,” notes Schwarz. “However, the new Madison Eight-Days with Eterna Spherodrive that will be launched this coming November will certainly take a leading position within our

classic range. These two collections offer timepieces with classical designs and innovative traditional Swiss watchmaking.”

Carl F. Bucherer: “The Manero Perpetual,” says Vallata. “With its classically designed watch case and dial and the popular function of a perpetual calendar; it offers a combination appealing to taste in developing, but also developed markets. The level of quality ensures the buyer has invested in a watch that will increase in value.”

Armand Nicolet: “The Limited Edition L08/ LS8 because it is a line that uses only the best of our artisanal traditions here in Switzerland,” says Braga.

Milus: “The Tirion collection is definitely our best-selling classic yet elegant watch,” Edöcs says. “It is a perfect tribute to the Milus design tradition and a homage to the passing of time.

The Tirion Classic TIRC002 and the Tirion TriRetrograde Seconds TIRI010 represent two different but still highly classical styles.”

SWISS MADE AUTOMATIC CHRONOGRAPH CAZIUS MODEL · ref. 25039.28 · stainless steel 316L · sapphire crystal · day/date function · Valjoux 7750 Info: Rodania Marketing AG · Weissenbühlweg 26, 3007 Bern, Switzerland · Tel. +41 (0)31 372 11 11 www.rodania.com

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The future No one expects the popularity of traditional watches to be short lived – they are a staple of the watch industry and will continue to remain so.

“I think classic is always in style,” says Patek Philippe’s Pettinelli. “Everyone has their blue blazer, and the women have their black cocktail dress. People just add to their collections when things are better. Nowadays, we are seeing a return to the classics. In the 22 years I’ve been here, Patek Philippe has always been tried and true and in a position where that classic elegance is a mainstay in people’s wardrobes. That is something we have to connect with the younger generation, we have to educate people about why a fine timepiece is a necessity in your wardrobe -- younger people have to be helped in this direction.”

Crazy watches might be less popular right now, but some trends remain, like bigger sizes, interesting materials and interesting

L08 by Armand Nicolet HLC03 by Hautlence

elements. “The time for flashy, oversized and over-equipped watches is certainly over,” says Eterna’s Schwarz. “However, there will always be a market for bigger-sized watches. Ladies today wear watches with a case diameter of 42 mm. And watches with a 44 mm case have become a standard for gentlemen.

“Classic, elegant watches are not a trend but simply timeless,” Schwarz continues. “Thus, they will always remain. The demand for such designs may increase, as people tend to go back to true values when times are harder. At Eterna we continue to trust in classic, elegant designs.”

Oversized, design-focused timepieces will still be a market niche, says Ralph Lauren’s Châtillon.

“Each customer’s design preference is different. It is a question of personal sensibility.

However, most customers share the same expectations: whether a watch is appreciated

for its opulence or its simplicity, the most important element is to offer a distinct timepiece of intrinsic value and excellence in functionality and quality. Thanks to our unique partnership, we’re able to bring to the market a one-of-a-kind offering in line with these expectations, combining the well-recognized horological expertise of Richemont with the signature aesthetic of Ralph Lauren.”

“I believe that the trend towards more classically styled timepieces will last for a long time because in my opinion it isn't just the consequence of a fashion trend but the result of a better knowledge of the market in terms of artisan watches,” notes Armand Nicolet’s Braga.

Classics, according to the experts, will never go out of style. “Round or traditional shaped watches have been better selling than outsized, outlandish watches for quite some time now,” says Milus’ Edöcs. “Outsized and outlandish watches have in our opinion not a long-lasting life cycle. But different shapes and sizes are important to create an overall brand image and to satisfy trendsetters and people who have a unique and personal taste. Therefore, classical and elegant watches are not a trend but ‘must-haves.’” O

44 GLAMOUR GALLERY europa star

1. VINTAGE GOLDEN TUBE by Corum 18-carat white gold cylindrical timepiece, which is a re-edition of a 1957 watch of the same name. Tube set with 342 gemstones totalling 3.58 carats, fluted crown positioned at 12 o’clock and adorned with a white mother-of-pearl cabochon, diamond set or mother-of-pearl dial with three diamonds at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, alligator strap and limited to 30 pieces in white gold and 30 pieces in red gold.

1.

2. CAPRICE TIGER by Ulysse Nardin White gold timepiece equipped with a UN-13 mechanical selfwinding movement with 42-hour power reserve. Hours and minutes, emeralds and rubies adorn the dial, diamond set case and bezel, diamond set 22-carat gold rotor, anti-reflective sapphire crystal, open case back with sapphire crystal, choice of satin or galuchat strap or white gold bracelet, water resistant to 50 metres and limited to 28 pieces.

3. CAPUCINE by Damoiselle D Rhodium plated 18-carat white gold 35mm timepiece equipped with an ETA E01-701 movement. Funtions: hours and minutes.

Dial and bracelet snow-set with 360 diamonds of VVS1/F-G quality, totalling 3.36 carats.

4. CHRYSTALBALL BAMBOO WHITE DIAMOND by Badollet 18-carat, palladium-coated, white gold timepiece equipped with a manual winding movement with flying tourbillon and 120-hour power reserve. Open work and mother-of-pearl dial, bezel set with 52 diamonds (6.70 carats), various choices of dial rings including sapphire, white gold, titanium or zirconium ceramics, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and caseback, matt or glossy hand-sewn white alligator strap with folding clasp.

5. LADY TOURBILLON by Zenith 18-carat white gold 40mm tourbillon equipped with the brand’s El Primero 4029 automatic movement. Hours and minutes, silvercoloured dial with diamond set indexes, case set with baguette diamonds of Top Wesselton quality, sapphire crystal with antireflective coatings on both sides, galuchat strap and water resistant to 30 metres.

2.

3.

4.

5.

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6.

7.

8.

6. JWLRYMACHINE by MB&F and Boucheron 18-carat white gold, titanium and amethyst timepiece equipped with a movement designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor.

Hours and day/night indicator on one cone and minutes on the second cone, date around the movement, owl breast made out of an engraved quartz (32.71 carats), eyes created with two rubellite cabochons (32.71 carats), pink, purple and blue sapphires (5.17 carats), anti reflective sapphire crystals throughout and handstitched alligator or lizard strap.

7. CHRISTAL HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION by Dior White gold 33mm timepiece equipped with Zenith’s Elite automatic movement. Hours, minutes and seconds, oscillating weight inlaid with white mother-of-pearl and diamonds, bezel and bracelet set with baguette iolites, white mother-of-pearl marquetry dial set with diamonds and black lacquer, transparent caseback and crown set with a rose-cut diamond.

8. M03 by Armand Nicolet 316L stainless steel timepiece equipped with a mechanical automatic movement with small seconds and date function. Silvered guilloché and black mother-of-pearl dial, bezel set with 54 Top Wesselton brilliant-cut diamonds (quality VS/F-G totalling 0.77 carats), violet alligator strap, deployment buckle and water resistant to 100 metres.

9.

10.

9. HLC03 by Hautlence 18-carat white gold 41mm timepiece equipped with Hautlence’s self-winding mechanical movement showing jumping hours and retrograde minutes over 180º. 40-hour power reserve, multilevel mother-of-pearl dial, hand-stitched purple alligator strap with square scales, 18-carat white gold buckle and water resistant to 30 metres. This new feminine collection is also available set with diamonds and in a vast choice of colours. Limited edition of 88 pieces per model.

10. EASYDIVER by Manufacture Roger Dubuis Steel 40mm timepiece equipped with an RD 821 movement.

Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock, purple dial with Clou de Paris design and mother-of-pearl sectors, white gold Arabic numerals, 36 diamonds on the stamped bezel totalling 1 carat, stamped caseback, rubber strap, adjustable deployment buckle, water resistant to 30 metres and limited to 888 pieces.

46 GLAMOUR GALLERY europa star

12.

11.

11. PATRAVI EVO TEC BIGDATE by Carl F. Bucherer Stainless steel 32mm timepiece equipped with the company’s automatic in-house CFB A1003 calibre with 55-hour power reserve. Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock and big date at 11 o’clock, screw-down crown, domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, caseback with sapphire crystal, python strap and water resistant to 50 metres.

12. CAPE COD TONNEAU by Hermès Rose gold timepiece equipped with a quartz movement. Hours minutes, natural white mother-of-pearl dial, 52 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1. 3 carats (VVS quality G and F), anti-reflective sapphire crystal, black alligator strap and rose gold buckle.

13.

13. LADIES FIRST CHRONOGRAPH (7071R)

by Patek Philippe Rose gold chronograph equipped with Patek Philippe’s mechanical, manually wound, CH 29-535 PS calibre. Central chronograph hand, 30-minute elapsed time counter, seconds sub dial, dial flange set with 136 diamonds totalling approximately 0.58 carats, black dial with guilloché, white alligator strap and Patek Philippe Seal.

14. 150TH ANNIVERSARY ANIMAL WORLD WATCH COLLECTION by Chopard 18-carat rose gold timepiece to celebrate Chopard’s 150th anniversary in support of the World Wildlife Fund. Gold monkey with full pave setting of diamonds, mother-of-pearl dial, diamondset bezel, Chopard’s signature mobile diamonds, skeleton hands, satin strap and 18-carat rose gold buckle. There are 15 watches in the collection, each depicting a different animal.

15. MAREA MER403 TRIRETROGRADE SECONDS SKELETON by Milus 18-carat rose gold retrograde timepiece equipped with a mechanical automatic movement. Retrograde seconds in three sectors of 20 seconds each, 1.08 carats of diamonds, alligator strap and 18-carat rose gold buckle.

15.

14.

48 BRANDS

europa star

Just hand over the chocolate and no one will get hurt!

Ebel and Max Chocolatier blend together for a unique limited edition.

RSophie Furley

chocolate artisan to merge our two worlds: the one of luxury chocolate and the other of fine watchmaking.”

I

It is a well know fact that women just love chocolate, they can eat astronomical quantities in one sitting, they lose all willpower when faced with any kind of cocoa derivative, and there are even women in the Europa Star office who will hunt out and steal chocolate, but I won’t name names! Add to this fact that some of the world’s finest chocolate comes from Switzerland, and an association between women’s watches and chocolate makes perfect sense.

Ebel came up with the idea for a Swiss chocolate collaboration last year when it was searching for a way to celebrate the 25th anniversary of its renowned Beluga Collection.

“The idea came quickly to design a limited Beluga collection inspired by the world of chocolate, which is a very sensuous material,”

Three distinct flavours The Beluga Chocolate Collection comes in three limited variations: Dark chocolate, milk chocolate and white chocolate. Each version is 37mm in diameter and comes in white gold with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds (totalling 1.08 carats) – there are black diamonds for the dark chocolate version, brown diamonds for the milk chocolate timepiece and white diamonds for the white chocolate collection. Particular details worth noting include two sapphire crystals that are coated with an anti-reflective treatment on both sides, a stamped chocolate motif pattern on the dial, Gadroon decorated hands, satin strap and butterfly clasp.

Perfect partners shares Marc-Michel Amadry, Ebel’s President and Creative Director. “From there, the idea came to us to make a partnership with a

The choice of chocolate-maker was a challenge, even in Switzerland, as the Swiss chocolate industry is split into two, with the big

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BRANDS 49

Max Chocolatier

industrial chocolate manufacturers on one side and small local artisans on the other. Very few of the Swiss chocolatiers are known outside of their town or village, so it was no easy task to find a chocolate maker who produced exceptional chocolate and who also possessed a global vision.

Max Chocolatier had everything Ebel was looking for as the chocolate brand is not only looking to increase its global exposure, but it also shares many values that are important to the watch brand. Firstly, the chocolate arti-

sans, just like Ebel’s watchmakers, are meticulous about the quality of the products that they use (alpine cows’ milk, Californian almonds, Piedmontese hazelnuts, Hawaiian Kona coffee beans, Tahitian vanilla and so forth) and secondly, the company is very attentive to the architecture of the chocolate its form, height and geometry. This last point is particularly harmonious with Ebel who promote the brand under the label of the ‘Architects of Time’.

First impressions Maybe a tin of Max Chocolatier’s caviar-themed chocolate (developed especially to celebrate the association with Ebel’s Beluga) on the counter would be a great marketing method to keep female customers happy, and also keep them coming back to your store.

The collection has been well received by Ebel’s partners who are very enthusiastic by the limited series. “Retailers love the Beluga collection in general, whose name initially comes from the world of caviar. They found the concept very original and typically Ebel. They immediately said that the chocolate world was right for Beluga, and they loved the design of this limited edition,” notes Amadry.

This new association and unique collection will no doubt catch women’s attention, but with only 25 pieces for each version, retailers should maybe lobby for more. After all, depriving women of chocolate is never a good idea! O For more information about Ebel click on Brand Index at www.europastar.com

Max Chocolatier isn’t a newcomer to the world of watches; it’s founder, Patrik König, is also a jeweller and the owner of the watch and jewellery retailer Embassy with boutiques in Lucerne and Saint Moritz, as well as proprietor of the Hermès boutique in Lucerne.

König long harboured a dream of creating the world’s finest chocolate boutique and joined forces with the international award-winning chef chocolatier Fabian Rimann to create Max Chocolatier.

Each chocolate creation is a work of art: Chocolateenrobed Grappa grapes; caramel Plättli flavoured with Tahitian vanilla and fleur de sel; chocolate branches created with a shortcrust base, gianduja and raspberry purée; and not forgetting the special creation of minute 65% Maracaibo chocolate balls, just like Beluga caviar, to celebrate the partnership with Ebel.

Tempted? There is no need to book flights to Lucerne or wait to see Ebel at BaselWorld, Max Chocolatier accepts online orders at – www.maxchocolatier.com.

50 BRANDS europa star

Arcadia – A blast from the past The watch industry of the early 19th century was a booming trade in Switzerland with movement manufacturers counting in the hundreds. The landscape couldn’t be more different today (See Pierre Maillard’s in-depth report on the current movement industry in this issue). However, every now and again a little bit of history is revived and modernised for consumers to enjoy once again.

RSophie Furley

A

Arcadia was one of five watch brands created by the Fleurier Watch Company in the 1850s.

The company was founded by Jules-Samuel Jequier, a young man born in Fleurier who had devoted his young life to horology.

Jequier started his career working at Bovet at a time when the company was operating a flourishing Swiss-Chinese commercial enterprise. Later, with the help of his five sons, he started the Fleurier Watch Company and in 1855 established the Arcadia brand.

Arcadia started as a movement manufacturer before becoming a watch brand and was by far the star of the Fleurier Watch Company.

155 years later, two friends, Claude Sanz (owner of the prestigious jewellery setter Bunter SA) and Richard Baldwin (Arcadia’s CEO) have decided to revive this gem of watchmaking history.

Richard Baldwin and Claude Sanz

In the 1990s Claude Sanz discovered the amazing heritage behind the Fleurier Watch Company and its Arcadia brand and decided to take over the name as it had fallen into the public domain. However, he didn’t quite know what to do with it, that is until he met Richard Baldwin, a fellow watch enthusiast and together they decided to render homage to the brand and “light the light” as he puts it.

These two charming gentlemen, who share many common interests, have decided to have some fun and do things their own way, which shows and shines through the new Arcadia collection. Firstly, they decided to produce every single piece of their 275 piece limited

collection before contacting any retail partners. So that when a store places an order, the timepieces can be delivered immediately. In an age when many retailers order from prototypes with no realistic idea of a delivery timeline, this is surely going to be a huge hit.

In addition to thinking about the retailers, Arcadia started by concentrating on the client and put all its research and development money into the product - there is no fancy box, no lavish paper bag, no gold embossed instruction booklet – the watch comes in a “you can throw this down the stairs” protective rubber pouch (although we wouldn’t advise it – you never know!) and all the technical instructions and guarantee etc are on a USB key - leaving a product that has been designed and created to a high standard.

The watch, called the AC01, may be a revival of an old collection, but there is nothing oldlooking about it. The rounded shapes of the split level, carbon fibre dial and its counters are to be found in a 42 mm tonneau case made out of titanium and stainless steel. The

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BRANDS 51

Historic ARCADIA model from the 1950s

case is a complicated affair with chronograph pushers that are cleverly worked to appear like they are part of the case. Other features include double-jointed lugs, a technological fibre strap and secure folding clasp to ensure a comfortable fit on the wrist.

On the inside, Arcadia has used an ETA 2892A2 automatic movement with a Dubois Dépraz module that together feature: hours and minutes, small seconds at 3 o’clock, 4044 hour power reserve, two-way 18-carat rose gold rotor, chronograph with centre seconds hand, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, date at 4 o’clock and GMT. The crown has three settings for manual winding, quick date setting and time setting and there is a pusher for the GMT time-zone setting.

All this for around the price of CHF 10,000, which took many journalists pleasantly by surprise as they sipped their Swiss wine and tasted delicate canapés at the brands luxury launch luncheon!

There are some big names and tough competition at this price level, but the watch is attractive (it looks even better in the flesh than in the pictures, which isn’t always the case) and the company appears to be financially sound (especially as there are 275 pieces waiting to ship). So if you are looking for something new, have some space in your

window displays and your customers prefer more watch than box, this is certainly a brand to consider.

In addition to the AC01, Sanz and Baldwin have plans for another collection, a ladies line and they are talking openly about a project to revive the Arcadia movement for themselves and possibly others. With the technology and energy at hand, it looks like Arcadia is not just a blast from the past, but a brand for the future too. O For more information about Arcadia click on www.arcadia-geneve.com

52 SOPHIE’S CHOICE europa star

Over the rainbow with fashion watches Fashion watches used to be looked down upon by the majority of the watch industry due to derivative designs and ‘here today and gone tomorrow’ styling. Today’s fashion watches are changing that perception.

RSophie Furley

A

An email recently arrived at the Europa Star office asking if we could recommend a fun, colourful ladies watch for a couple of hundred dollars. It was a good question, a question that millions of people ask themselves and retailers each year. But to be honest, we had been so wrapped up in mechanical watches, complications and the art of watchmaking, that an answer didn’t immediately come to mind. So for this issue, we have delved into the world of the fashion watch and have discovered a market bursting with colour and innovation.

APPETIME

The end of the copy cats Once you have admired and handled high-end watches, it is easy to become a bit of a snob when it comes to fashion watches. In the past, many of the lower-end brands shamelessly copied the styles and designs of the luxury brands. However, all this seems to be changing as more and more fashion brands are developing their own design DNA and flair, much like costume jewellery designers have done in the jewellery industry.

One company that has always been at the forefront of the fashion watch industry is Swatch and the company has maintained an enormous following for almost 30 years now thanks to its fun and bright designs. Inspirations come from all kinds of sources, such as art, sports, animals, flowers, flags, graffiti and even James Bond. With hundreds, if not thousands, of different designs, customers can find a timepiece that appeals to their particular sense of style. Like with most fashion brands, Swatch is constantly introducing new models

APPETIME

throughout the year to keep consumers interested and spending.

Another company that has its very own unique style is the Hong Kong based odm. The company’s name stands for ‘original, dynamic and minimalist’ and its signature large digital display Daze watches are instantly recognisable.

The brand was founded in 1999 and is now distributed in over 30 countries worldwide and has won several international design awards.

The brand is very focused on young people and is constantly inspired by what interests them. The Rainbow collection was prompted by the social media phenomenon and the fact that people love to share their thoughts and ideas with friends. The Rainbow watch allows each owner to input his or her own message so that it flashes up on the dial. It could be a reminder to call Grandma on her birthday or an inspirational quote.

Europa Star visited odm recently at the Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair – see our report in this issue.

JCDC

JCDC

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SOPHIE’S CHOICE 53

ODM

ODM MICHELE WATCHES

A rainbow of colours

Inspirations

Colour is definitely the key word this year in the fashion watch segment with everything from primary and fluorescent colours to daring multicoloured timepieces. Bright colours are the perfect remedy for fighting the recession blues and a wonderful way to make a fashion statement. More and more watch collections are now available in a whole spectrum of hues and tones so there is plenty to choose from. For those who can’t decide which colour to chose (which is honestly quite difficult when faced with more than 20 colours) multicoloured, rainbow watches are also hugely popular and will certainly get noticed, and if that isn’t bold enough, fluorescent colours (that glow day and night) are also making a come back. Check out Michele Watches, Nixon, Rumba Time,Too Late, Lambretta and odm.

If colour isn’t enough to excite watch consumers, many fashion brands are also including positive slogans to their collections to stimulate and inspire their clients.

The Californian-based watch company Nixon is focused on giving a little extra to its brand with a philosophy that aims to create products that make you ‘feel like you've got a leg up on the rest of the world’ – a great mission statement to connect with young people in search of their very own style. Combine this with a vast palette of colours, bold shapes, interesting materials and different ways of telling the time and how could anyone not feel energized!

Seiko’s Appetime combines colour with a fun concept of elevator symbols - floor numbers, open doors, close doors, alarm telephone sign

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54 SOPHIE’S CHOICE europa star

NIXON

LACOSTE

etc. – which are on the dial of each watch.

The aim is to give each owner the delightful feeling of reaching his or her destination. The company’s slogan is ‘Are you going up or down? Or somewhere else?? Life is a choice’.

Appetime also has a host of other collections that are equally fun and colourful to improve ones mood.

Combining time and art A number of watch companies are joining forces with artists to create watches displaying an artist’s work across the dial and/or the strap. The concept is a great way for brands to benefit from the creativity and notoriety of an artist to enhance a timepiece.

Swatch was one of the first to introduce an artist/watch joint venture and now this concept is being reproduced by other brands in

NOOKA

the creation of their collections too. This year Swatch’s ‘Special Artist’ collection includes watches by British artists: Gary Card and Carri Munden and Swatch Snowboard Pro Team member and designer David Benedek; Too Late is collaborating with the Italian artists Tony Ranidro and Andy; Nooka is working with a number of artists, including Undrcrwn and Matthew Waldman; and odm has joined forces with the famous Parisian designer JCDC.

Interesting ways of reading the time To create a unique way of displaying the time mechanically can be an expensive undertaking, but quartz movements allow a lot more freedom for watch companies to play around with different systems of showing the time.

TOOLATE

HAUREX

CASIO

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DIESEL

Binary readings have been quite popular for the last few years, and now new time displays are in vogue with the time being read on discs with coloured dots (Nixon), in round and rectangular windows that light up (Nooka) and also in semi-circle dials with different length hands (Levis Watches).

Pile it on One craze that has been sweeping the jewellery industry is to wear several bracelets or bangles as the same time, mixing colours and metals. Previously, the only person who was able to afford to do this with watches was the late Nicolas G. Hayek, but with some fashion watches being as affordable as US$20 a piece, anyone can start piling on timepieces.

Brands that have been seen in multiples on customers wrists are RumbaTime with its

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LEVI’S

VanDam line and Swatch’s Colour Codes.

Mixing metallic watches with bracelets and bangles is also very much in vogue.

Don’t dismiss So don’t be a watch snob, enjoy all the fun and fabulous things that are happening in the fashion watch segment. If you are a retailer, there has never been a better time to add some colour to your window displays. Bold new fashion watches will entice new and younger customers into your store and hopefully cheer up all your regular customers. And for consumers, and in particular our reader who asked us for some fun and colourful watch suggestions, we hope you find something you like in these pages to keep you cheerful through the winter months. O

TKO

BRERA OROLOGI RUMBATIME

56 FAIRS europa star

Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 2010 Show report The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair opened its doors for the 29th time this autumn with many surprises in store. Europa Star’s Sophie Furley was there to follow events and discover the latest collections.

RSophie Furley Asia’s place in the watch industry The Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair opened its doors for the 29th time this autumn. The first pleasant surprise of the fair was during the opening ceremony when Ms Yvonne Choi, Hong Kong’s Permanent Secretary for Commerce and Economic Development, announced that timepiece exports from Hong Kong had grown by 24 per cent for the first half of 2010, amounting to HK$24.5 billion or US$ 3.15 billion. This was a great sign that recovery from the global financial crisis is underway and means that Hong Kong stays firmly in second position for the largest exporter of watches and clocks after Switzerland.

QUE

Swiss imports were also noted to be largely on the rise with figures for the first half of 2010 reaching HK$10.4 billion or US$1.34 billion. The 45.2 per cent increase in these numbers was stated as being largely due to the growing number of Mainland Chinese tourists who prefer to purchase timepieces in Hong Kong because of the quality services provided by Hong Kong watch retailers.

These positive figures reinforce the importance of Hong Kong as a strategic hub for the watchmaking industry in terms of both the importation and exportation of watches. Add to this, Hong Kong’s privileged relationship with China and the territory is continuously gaining strength. The Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair is an annual meeting place that aims to bring the industry’s players together to improve business in the region. This year’s fair recorded over 700 exhibitors, 16,500 visitors and 68 buying missions from 64 countries.

Looking east Mainland China was on everyone’s lips throughout the fair, with many brands voicing their desire to tap into the Mainland Chinese market.

The Hong Kong Trade and Development Council

JACQUES FAREL

held a special forum with members of the watch trade organisations from China, Korea, Japan, Switzerland, France and Hong Kong to discuss the huge potential of China and many other hot industry issues.

The delegates explained that it isn’t enough to enter into the Chinese malls, but that brands have to carry out continuous promotion to stay there. The Korean representative, Mr. Kim Dai-Bong, explained how many Korean watch brands had not had much success in entering the Chinese market with existing retail networks and that a few of them had decided to open their own shops on the Mainland instead. Mr. Patrice Besnard, representative of La Chambre Française de L'horlogerie et des microtechniques, shared “Many brands known in France are not known outside the country. The average brand has to find other ways of distributing, via the Internet or by finding ways to combine

58 FAIRS europa star

bags, watches and jewellery, for example.”

Mr. Thierry Dubois, from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry shared how the Swiss are very excited about Asia. “Looking to the future, China is very important for us, but we are also looking at other countries in the region such as Indonesia, Cambodia, Vietnam etc. Take South Korea, for example, it is now the 12th market for Swiss exports.”

Enthusiasm about the mainland market was also reflected in an independent survey that questioned brands exhibiting at the fair about their sales plans for China. More than 60 per cent of exhibitors interviewed said their companies had already developed sale channels to the mainland market, or had plans to sell on the mainland in the near future.

News from the Hong Kong brands One point that everyone at the forum agreed on was that to succeed in today’s market, brands need to focus on quality and originality. The Hong Kong watch brands exhibiting at the fair were already one step ahead with an array of products that were well-made, fun, colourful and offered a host of new concepts to attract new buyers. Let’s take a look at some of the highlights. odm is one of the most successful brands coming out of Hong Kong and was one of the first to concentrate on original, fashionable concepts. The star product at the show was the company’s 0°C collection that aims to remind people that its “Never too late to protect the environment”. The watch comes with a black or white strap and a case that is like a

ODM

LEVI’S

piece of ice. There is a choice of three types of hands with green blades of grass, birds or fish.

The packaging continues the ecological theme with a recycled paper box and a biodegradable bamboo bag. For more odm collections see our article Over the rainbow with fashion watches in this issue.

interchanged with other watches. So it is possible to have a white watch with a blue face, or a yellow watch with a red face, depending on how many friends have the same watch! There are also a number of other collections for men and women that benefit from odm’s renowned design, experience and know-how.

Levis watches, which are also produced by odm Design and Marketing Ltd, presented a fun new concept this year where the watch case pops out of the bezel and strap and can be

Hong Kong has a great reputation when it comes to technical sports watches and there were a number of fantastic offerings this year.

Solus was one of this year’s highlights with a new watch that enables the wearer to check his or her heart beat through a unique fingertouch heart rate measurement feature. The watch captures the heart rate by making a circuit through the finger to the back of the wrist. There is also a heart rate chest band for serious athletes who want a continuous readout while training or racing.

SOLUS

Universe Watch Trading Co. Ltd. has been manufacturing watches for over 35 years and took the important decision to create its own brand, Zerone, four years ago. This year, the company presented a number of new collections that have been created in collaboration with 13 different Japanese artists under the name of “Where Time meets Art”. Each collection is

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ZERONE

more exciting and original than the next with some incredibly innovative styles, concepts and designs. Photographed here is a collection by the famous Tokyo artist Sasu who fuses natural and urban graphics in feminine lines that work beautifully on the dial of a watch.

Romago Design, a new brand that was founded just last year, presented some exciting new timepieces that contain blank mirrored dials that light up when you look at the time. The dial is illuminated thanks to a unique patented lens that has a built-in sensor that changes the mirror face to time display when rotating the watch 45° towards the face. The technology lends itself well to both feminine ladies models as it does to more sporty men’s collections.

WIZE & OPE

ROMAGO DESIGN

Foreign brands at the fair The Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair is not only the place for the Hong Kong brands to showcase their products, but it is also an excellent opportunity for smaller brands to enter the Asian market. Distributors and retailers are so busy during the Swiss shows that they hardly have time to visit the smaller companies. The Hong Kong Watch and Clock fair is an ideal place for such smaller brands to meet partners from Asia.

Wherever you go Ice Watch is catching your attention - from billboards to fashion magazines, from shop windows to people’s wrists.

So what a nice surprise to see the company on full display in the centre of the Brand Gallery, where Europa Star could find out more about

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ICE WATCH

this vibrant brand. Ice Watch started life in Belgium in 2007 with a concept to create a fashionable, cool, unisex watch that would look great at a party, in the office or on the beach. Ice Watch is far from being the only brand in this segment of the watch market, however the difference is that they seem to have got all the elements right – product (Polycarbonite watch available in a huge range of vivid colours), packaging (Lego-like construction box that doubles up as a money box), price (69 to 200 Euros). The company has gone from selling 10,000 watches per month in 2007 to over half a million watches per month today. They have just opened their 81st country and boast a staggering 3,800 points of sale. Maybe they should have called themselves Hot Watch!

Phosphor is a new brand from the United States that uses electronic ink technology (just like the Kindle e-reader) in its time display. It works with millions of tiny microcapsules, about the diameter of a human hair. Each microcapsule contains positively charged white particles and negatively charged black particles suspended in a clear fluid. When a positive electric field is applied, the white particles move to the top of the microcapsule

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PHOSPHOR

where they become visible to the user, and an opposite electric field pulls the black particles to the bottom. It is also possible to reverse the process for a contrasting display. Phosphor watches change from black numerals to white numerals at the press of a button, offering a fun and readable view of the time, even in bright sunlight.

More innovation was to be found at Rainbow Watch from Hamburg, Germany. This colourful way of telling the time uses coloured discs in cyan, magenta, yellow and black that are superimposed over each other and that turn with the hands, constantly changing the colour of the dial. The effect is very visual and well worth a look on the company’s website to see a demonstration – www.rainbow-watch.com.

What was also extremely interesting to learn is that even if Rainbow Watch has sold extremely well through traditional retail networks, the brand has also had enormous success with the teleshopping channels in Japan, USA and China. “We can sell 3,000 watches in an hour with teleshopping, making US$400,000 to US$500,000 per showing, which would take a long time to do in a shop,” shares the company’s CEO Joachim Baer. “There are 38 shopping channels in China alone that broadcast

RAINBOW WATCH

infomercials,” he continues. As more and more watch companies try to find innovative ways to sell their timepieces, teleshopping seems to be a rewarding strategy.

A region in motion The Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair provided a host of surprises this year, from exciting new concepts, to original designs, different technologies and distribution ideas. On

The Hong Kong Design Competition is always a highlight of the fair and this year was no exception.

The competition is in its 27th year and was created to promote Hong Kong design. Each year the territory’s students sharpen their pencils and compete in creating the most original and unique watch or clock.

This year’s winner was Kin Waily from the Hong Kong School of Business and Information Systems who designed a clock that doubles up as a plant pot. Not such a big deal, you may think, until you learn that the clock is powered using the solar and chemical energy from the mud in the pot! The ecological theme is also carried throughout the design, with the clock being created out of eco-plastic and eco-paint and with most of the clock parts being recyclable. The ‘green’ theme doesn’t end there either, the clock comes with a packet of wheatgrass seeds so the owner can enjoy watching the grass grow (which takes only a few days) and then squeeze it to make a one ounce wheatgrass shot (whose nutritional value is equivalent to 2.5 pounds of vegetables) – so it not only tells you the time but extends your lifespan – not many clocks can make that claim! (S.F.)

MAX

the doorstep with Mainland China, Hong Kong has never been more important to the international watch industry. It is a hub for Swiss watches coming into Asia, a shopping centre for Mainland Chinese customers and the second largest producer of clocks and watches in the world. The Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair brings many of these elements together for a great show that just keeps getting better and better. O

«Art reflects the Magic of our Dreams»

‚‚‚ Cal. 8040.N – 15 Big Date, Chrono, Day Retrograde Case ' 40 mm

ronda-mastertech.com

The magic of your design. The technology of our movement. Together we create new values. RONDA mastertech.

Photo credits: Fiedler SA

62 BEHIND THE SCENES europa star

Lending a hand to time In this series of articles entitled ‘Behind the Scenes’ of the watch industry, Europa Star’s Sophie Furley takes to the road again, this time to learn about the art of fabricating watch hands.

Fiedler SA

RSophie Furley

A

At the height of business back in the 1960s, there used to be over 60 watch hand manufacturers in Switzerland, but now there are only half a dozen left serving the watch industry. Maybe it was this limited number, or the fact that the watch hand is such a delicate object, that somehow I thought that my visits to Fiedler SA in Geneva and Waeber HMS in Fleurier would bring me to traditional, artisanal operations…how wrong I was!

The fabrication of the watch hand has to be one of the most sophisticated and high tech manufacturing processes in the watch industry.

It makes sense really, when producing thousands and thousands of watch hands per year with as many different references, a certain

sense of organisation is obviously de rigueur.

Plans, bar codes, manufacturing orders, production activity controls, quality controls, production flows make the creation of the watch hand a streamlined affair. But behind the organisation and the efficiency, at the heart of the machines, lies the same artisanal savoirfaire from the beginning of watch time, it’s just that time (and good management) have thankfully granted a little speed to production.

But first, let’s take a look back in time.

Historical hands The very first timepieces only had one hand for the hours and it wasn’t until 1691 that the British watchmaker Daniel Quare introduced the central minute hand. The hands at this time had to be almost indestructible as there was no glass to protect the dial and setting involved physically pushing the hands to the correct time.

It wasn’t until the middle of the 18th century that hands became slimmer and more elegant.

The watchmakers of the time fondly christened their creations with names such as Bâton, Dauphine, Feuille, Sword, Spade, Poire, Breguet, Moon or Skeleton hands. However, nowadays, there are so many different varieties that it would be impossible to name them all individually.

The first hands were made and decorated by hand, but around 1764 watchmakers developed a system of stamping out hands from a sheet of metal using a hammer, and in 1800 the first hand presses were developed to ease the process further.

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Fiedler SA

Hand machines These systems of punching out the hands from a sheet of metal haven’t changed much.

The stamping presses at both Waeber and Fiedler use variants on this technology. All the machines have been created especially for each company’s individual needs and is the reason why both have in-house mechanical departments to make adaptations and create the tools that are so specific to the metier.

“You just can’t buy a machine for making watch hands,” explains Roger Waeber, CEO of Waeber HMS SA. “You have to create it yourself, often with the help of two or three different suppliers.”

The art of hand craft The process for making a watch hand starts with rolls of metal, usually in brass, bronze, gold or pfinodal (a copper-based alloy), that look similar to old fashioned film reels. Each roll is passed through a machine, like a projector if we follow the film analogy, where small holes are punched out to create a guide for all the following operations.

Metal rolls

Preparing the canons

Cannoning The rolls are then inserted into another press which will push the material around the ‘guiding’ hole outwards to create a lip. This lip, or canon as it is called in hand making terms, will eventually sit on the canon pinion that connects the hands to the movement.

The raw surface is then diamond polished to ensure a perfect, uniform height and finish.

Not all watch canons can be made in this way.

The second hand is often too fine to have its canon pushed out, and some hands need a longer canon that cannot be achieved in this way. The solution is to rivet a separate canon onto the hand afterwards and this is a delicate process which takes a lot of dexterity as the canons are minute.

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Aligning hands before polishing

Blanking process

Blanking The next stage is blanking, a process whereby the hand is cut out of the metal using a stamp specifically created for each and every type of hand (For information Fiedler has over 25,000 references and Waeber 13,500 in just ten years of existence – meaning there is a stamp that has been made in-house for each one). The hands are cut out one by one as the metal band is fed through the machine.

Hands that are destined to be luminescent will be cut two times – first the outer form is cut and then an opening is cut inside the hand where the SuperLumiNova will be subsequently painted on.

Metal roll after cutting

FIEDLER SA The Fiedler hand manufacturer was founded in 1848 and has remained 100 per cent independent since the very beginning. The company specialises in producing high-end watch hands for Switzerland’s most prestigious brands and employs over 135 people.

Isabelle Chillier, Director, is the fourth generation of the Fiedler family to run the family business. She started her career as an economist and then went to work in Paris in the art world before joining her father at the helm of the company. “I suddenly realised what a great opportunity I had to work with my father and continue the family business,” she shares, and she hasn’t looked back since.

A perfect finish Once the hand is cut out from the metal it is then diamond-cut using the latest technology. Next, it is glued to a support and polished. The finishing of the hands is where the work really begins as there are countless ways to decorate a hand. It can be facetted (two or three facets), curved, flat, highly polished, matt, coloured and more. Many of the processes are carried out by diamond cutting machines, but there are also ancient machines that can create finishes that can’t be achieved as well with CNC machines.

WAEBER HMS SA Roger Waeber founded his company Waeber HMS SA ten years ago after a long career at Universo (now part of the Swatch Group). Together with his son and daughter, they run a high-tech company in a Minergie labelled, environmentally friendly building that is like something from the future. The company makes hands for numerous high-end, Swiss watch brands as well as mid-range brands too. In the very near future, the company will also be producing indexes in addition to hands.

Roger Waeber is very positive about the road ahead. “I am looking forward to news from the Swiss Watch Federation regarding the new Swiss Made regulations,” he shares. “Hopefully a number of brands will stop having their hands produced in Asia and return to Switzerland.” Time will shortly tell.

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Duco painting

A handful of colour

Seeing SuperLumiNova

Hands in brass and bronze can be coloured using galvanizing processes that plate the hands with pink or yellow gold. Other galvanizing treatments include rhodium, ruthenium and a black oxidation that is currently very popular. Reds, oranges and yellows, popular on sports watches and chronographs, are mainly varnishes that are applied by hand. It is also possible to varnish part of a hand, like the arrow of a second hand, for example.

SuperLumiNova is very popular on hands and it is delicately painted on the backside of the hand so as to leave a perfect view from the front of the hand. SuperLuminova can come in a variety of shades including white, green, light green, yellow, orange, blue and red.

Transfer pressing Transfer pressing is most common on dials to print the numerals and company logos, but it is also possible to use the same technique to add a fine line or detail to a watch hand.

The famous blue hands The blue hands that are favoured on high-end timepieces are fabricated by heating steel hands to high temperatures for a determined period of time to create the beautiful blue effect. In fact, steel goes through a whole range of colours as it is heated - from yellow, orange, pink, purple through to blue and turquoise – although these other colours aren’t often seen in a watch.

Quality control and card preparation One of the problems, or inconveniences should we say, with watch hand production is that each watch hand cannot be transported around the factory on its own. Batches of hands are carried together in a container with hundreds of other hands, so they rub against each other, scratching, scraping and causing irreparable damage. The quality control centre is therefore one of the most important processes in the delivery of the perfect hand to the client.

Fiedler’s quality control centre is a hive of activity with rows of patient young women sorting and eliminating about 40 per cent of production. The remaining hands are then individually placed in cards to be sent to the client.

A process that takes a steady and patient hand, especially when you consider that it is repeated millions of times per year.

Trends Different trends affect many of the watch industry’s crafts, including hands. “Watch hands have definitely become bigger and longer, following the trend for bigger watches,” explains Isabelle Chillier, Director of Fiedler SA. “Technical, sporty looking hands are also popular and we are seeing a return to classic styles,” she continues.

Roger Waeber has also noticed this return to the classic style, “Retro hand shapes are popular as the vintage style of the 1950s is making a comeback,” he shares.

Paying attention We tend to take watch hands for granted, but they are such an integral part of a timepiece that they are worth a second glance, a special mention, a little extra attention. Because without them, there would be absolutely no way of knowing what time it is! O

66 RETAILER PROFILE europa star

The luck of the Irish: Sheeran Jewellers in Dublin Ireland has been struggling mightily through this world economic crisis, and watch and jewellery stores have not been immune. To find out what is happening ‘on the ground’ in Ireland, I visited with Paul Sheeran, owner of Sheeran Jewellers, one of the best jewellery and watch stores in Dublin.

RKeith W. Strandberg Europa Star: How's business?

Paul Sheeran: Times are tough. Ireland has been hit hard, we were first in and might be last out. Ireland was very dependent on one industry, property and construction, and that totally collapsed. We have a lot of distressed people and companies here, and the business has changed overnight. At first, there was total paranoia, then you realize that it’s not just you, it’s everybody. Discretionary spending has virtually ceased. For the last year and a half, we have been working with our suppliers to spend as little as possible to have the best possible stock. We can’t sit on the old stuff and then buy new stuff.

With diamonds, we’re lucky because we can break up the pieces and restyle them. With watches, a lot of brands are just out of the Irish market – many have adapted and pulled out the lines that aren’t working and put in lines that are working.

ES: What is selling?

PS: The diamond ring business is OK, because people are still getting married. Where people were spending €20,000 then, they are spending €5,000 now. Watches below €10,000 are selling, while watches over €10,000 are not.

now.There is no room for error and we have to ask ourselves why we didn’t get a particular sale. It’s making us very business savvy. Better businesses will be born out of this recession because we have been looking at every angle of our business, performance-wise.

Paul Sheeran

The main business is between €500 – €5000.

We have cut anything that has not been working. We would rather be doing more business with less brands.

ES: How does the future look?

PS: I think it will be a long time before we get back to where we were. In Ireland, sentiments have changed and people have taken such a whipping that they are much more money spending savvy. They don’t feel the need to impress anyone. In addition, our business is home grown, we don’t have international tourism. We feel we are at the bottom of the turn and business is coming back.

A treat has returned to being a treat and that’s nice, because people who come in and buy really appreciate the purchase and they appreciate the experience. We, in our business, have to make sure we are doing our job so well

ES: What is the secret of your success?

PS: We’ve cost cut, we’ve reduced our staff by about 50 per cent, we are keeping our hands in our pockets and using the stock we have without buying new stock. We have been working hard with our suppliers to maximize the opportunities. Business is probably 60 per cent down from two or three years ago, so we had to bite the bullet and make the necessary changes. I am 42 and I had never experienced a recession like this, but it made me look at my business like never before. Business is going to come back and when it comes back, we will be in a very good position.

ES: What do you like about your job?

PS: I ended up in this business and I love it.

I have a real love for what I do. I love watches, I love diamonds. I tell the men of Dublin that they should be glad I’m not a woman as I’d be the dearest date in the city.You have to appreciate peo- the goods and appreciate life. When ple do well in life and want to celebrate, they

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FACTS AND FIGURES Name: Paul Sheeran, Paul Sheeran Jewellers, Dublin, Ireland How long: Since 1994 Employees: 25 Size of store: 600 square metres Average sale: 3,000 – 4,000 Euros Range of price: 50 Euros to over 100,000 Euros Best selling watch: TAG Heuer, IWC, Omega Brands: IWC, TAG Heuer, Omega, Frank Muller, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rado, Ebel, Maurice Lacroix, Dior, Tissot, Zenith, Breitling Website: www.paulsheeranjewellers.ie

turn to their jewellers. Jewellers rarely deal with horrible situations, what’s not fun about dealing with marriages, birthdays, anniversaries?

We deal in celebration, and we deal in people’s futures. That is genuinely part of what I love to do. The children of the people who I sold engagement rings to are starting to come in to buy for themselves, and I am getting tears in my eyes. It’s brilliant to see my business get into the second generation. It’s really a joyful business.

ES: What don't you like?

PS: It breaks my heart when there are complaints and I take it very personally. When someone on my team doesn’t do their job properly, I hate it. I hate giving anyone the opportunity to say we didn’t do our job well. I play to win, not come in second. I was trained by a Swiss watchmaker and he taught me to do things properly. The standards I worked under were so high that I am obsessed if a job is not right. The product we are selling is so sentimental, it’s not about the watch. We are on the front lines and we see the sadness and the tears first hand, which the suppliers don’t understand. It’s the sentiment that is the most important. We are selling dreams in our business, and it doesn’t matter the value of the dream, it’s still a dream.

ES: What is the biggest challenge facing your store right now?

PS: The Internet is a massive challenge to business. On the diamond side, there are so many people willing to sell with so little margin, it is commoditizing our business.

Discounting with some watch brands is a problem and it devalues the industry. It’s very hard to have one price throughout the world, but there are certain brands that do it really well.

Not discounting adds value to the product and adds value to the retailers’ business. In Ireland, when the recession hit, some retailers were fireselling. Getting involved in a race to the bottom is not the way to get ahead. If it’s only on price, there is no sentiment, no love. The world has turned into a very small place, so I’ll get a call from a customer who is in another city and can buy a watch for a certain price, and he wants to buy it from me, but I don’t discount. We need to stop discounting, because it is taking away the value from our industry.

ES: What is the biggest challenge facing the watch industry right now?

PS: For independents, the biggest challenge is a lot of brands opening their own stores and competing against their own retailers. They introduce lines that they won’t let you have.

ES: How do you market your store?

PS: Ireland is so small, it’s different from other countries, and we’ve done surveys and found the best marketing is word of mouth. This is driven by doing your job properly. On a Saturday afternoon, we can have people from all over Ireland in the store. For large purchases, people will come to Dublin because they have more choice. There are great jewellers all over Ireland, but people like to keep their business private, so they prefer to buy outside of their own town.

ES: How important is customer service?

PS: Customer service is hugely important. In a small country, you can be too well known, because if someone has a bad experience they will tell everyone they know. Making sure you are doing your job is very important, especially in a recession when business is very hard earned. Having the right product is also very important. If you don’t have the right brands, it’s hard to succeed. We will not be adding any brands. The only brands we have an open door to are Patek Philippe, Rolex and Panerai.

ES: How do you handle repairs?

PS: We are about to open a new repair division, open to the trade as well as ourselves.

We have two watchmakers presently and three goldsmiths. We have a full design service, where we do individual commissions, so we can make special pieces for our customers.

Repair is a very lucrative part of the business.

If you do it once and you do it well, you can make money from it.

ES: What is your favourite watch?

PS: I have a few favourites. I have my TAG Heuer Monaco and my IWC Portuguese and IWC Big Pilot. I absolutely adore Panerai but I won’t wear anything that I don’t sell. I love all my watches and I wear them all the time.

I love my Breitling and my Zenith. I love what I sell, I just love watches.

Many thanks for Paul Sheeran for taking time to talk with Europa Star. O

68 POSTCARD europa star

Europa Star postcard from Switzerland –

the markets are heating up RKeith W. Strandberg, International Editor

Recently, I had some great trips, all involving motorcycles. First, I went to the San Francisco area for the Laguna Seca MotoGP with Tissot.

MotoGP is always an exciting event and combining it with some time on the Monterey Peninsula made it even better. Tissot is the Official Timekeeper for MotoGP, they make the Official MotoGP watch and they work with former champion Nicky Hayden as an ambassador.

Sharon Buntain, Tissot’s US president, took great care of me, arranging a behind-the-scenes of the timekeeping effort, which is amazing, using transponders on all the motorcycles, receivers on the track and an incredible control centre that manages all the information and disseminates it all to everyone who needs it – the track displays, the TV feed, the commentators and the hundreds of journalists on site – all with the Tissot logo attached.

Amazingly, Tissot’s timekeepers set up every track from scratch, an incredible effort that requires tractor trailers to transport the equipment from track to track around the world.

Tissot also runs an on-site boutique, which did big business. One of the cool Tissot initiatives was introduced at the MotoGP – the tagging of ads, displays and POP materials with QR (quick read) codes. These codes, when read with smart phones, take the customer straight to special websites. Tissot put these codes on their POP displays and on the attractive models at their boutique, which as you can imagine was very successful in spreading the word.

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POSTCARD 69

Finally, I had a beautiful late summer (really early fall in Switzerland) ride to Thomas Prescher’s workshop in Twann, a picturesque little Swiss village on a lake. It was one of the best rides of my life, but cold, as winter is firmly on its way to Switzerland.

While at Prescher’s atelier, I realized all the steps that go into the making of each individual piece. Using his sophisticated software, I designed a bridge for his tourbillon, then outputted it into the CNC software, went through and set all the parameters for milling, then watched it being milled in the CNC machine. Then, I went through all the other steps – cleaning, beveling, polishing, finishing, galvanizing, drying and more. In truth, the work I did in four hours would have taken four days, just for one part! I walked out with my own tourbillon bridge -- I don’t know why he didn’t want to use it in his hand made tourbillons, he said something about “maintaining quality...”

On the schedule for me are the following trips: Greenwich UK for Zenith, a Jaeger LeCoultre factory visit, a Cartier factory visit, a trek to the Isle of Man to meet with George Daniels, an Agenhor visit, a trip to Monte Carlo with the Franck Muller Group, a visit to Iceland for a new watch brand, JS Watches, and a trip to New York City for the opening of a new Ralph Lauren boutique. No rest for the wicked. O

Next, I reconnected with my friend Robert Heinzer from Victorinox Swiss Army. Robert is president Carl Eisner’s right hand man and a Harley rider from way back and I was able to include a couple of nice long rides with him as I toured the Ibach, where Victorinox was founded, and Porrentruy facilities of Victorinox.

The operation in Ibach is amazing, producing 13 million knives and multitools a year. While there, I assembled my own Swiss Army Knife, which I carry with me all the time.

In Porrentruy, I saw the Victorinox assembly facility for watches and put the minute, hour and second hands on my own piece unique watch, which is on my wrist right now. As I look at the dial now, I don’t see the signature scratches I managed to carve into the pristine dial, so I’m wondering if it’s really the same watch...

70 WORLDWATCHWEB europa star.com

Watchmaking brands’ ambassadors in the digital era

BY GATHERING INSIGHTS ON PROPOSED AMBASSADORS IN KEY MARKETS IN THE ONLINE ARENA, SOME VISIONARY BRANDS ARE NOW MAKING MORE INFORMED AND SUCCESSFUL CHOICES WHEN CHOOSING A BRAND AMBASSADOR, SEIZING EVERY OPPORTUNITY TO PROMOTE THE AMBASSADOR-PRODUCT ASSOCIATION FOR MAXIMUM RETURN.

RIn collaboration with Florent Bondoux, IC-Agency, Luxury Digital-Marketing™ The primary role of the brand ambassador is to personify the values intrinsic to the brand and evoke the dreams associated with owning the product. As such, he or she must demonstrate a trend of increasing popularity and notoriety in the markets where the advertising and promotion will be visible in order to reach the projected target groups effectively. Whereas in the past the brand ambassador’s impact was more to confirm a specific brand or model, now it can serve to evoke awareness of the existence of a product, stimulate desire to purchase, then convert. For new product launches, often it is the brand ambassador which makes or breaks the model’s success, in both the short and long term.

By gathering insights on proposed ambassadors in key markets in the online arena, the WorldWatchReport 2010 - carried out by ICAgency in partnership with Europa Star – allows brands to make more informed and successful choices when choosing a brand ambassador. Upstream, using online strategic insights in the initial selection process generates higher quality short-lists, minimizes risk, and makes the selection process and media planning more efficient and successful. Further downstream popularity, reach, brand recall and campaign timing are confirmed through countryspecific monitoring of an ambassador’s impact and reputation.

Global top 15 most searched ambassadors January to December 2009

©IC-Agency 2010

Deciphering brand ambassadors’ ‘share of voice’ TAG Heuer takes 1st place thanks to its strong ambassadorbased communication strategy, offering a cumulative share of 34.4% of global demand. Last year Omega’s share of 32.5% melted away by 15 percentage points to 17.5%, mainly due to the decrease of searches for Michael Phelps, Olympic sportsman in 2009. Yet, it still holds second place ahead of its sister company Longines, which confirms its strong ambassador positioning with legendary Indian celebrity Aishwarya Rai. Rolex’s strategy for choosing its ambassadors seems more diversified with a total of 5 celebrities present in the ranking (11.2%).

Despite its large number of brand testimonies, ‘only’ stands at fourth place, which reflects its ‘niche’ and high-end approach in its choice of brand ambassadors. From Tennis star Roger Federer to the singers Diana Krall and Yo-Yo Ma, this much more highend approach allows the brand to create a significant share of voice related to ambassador notoriety.

Considering the links between a brand ambassador and related online notoriety, Robert-Jan Broer, author www.fratellowatches.com, and Invited Contributor, adds that “Depending on the ambassadors and their presence in the news, the list of most searched ambassadors will immediately absorb them. When Roger Federer won Wimbledon, with his Rolex watch being prominent on screen in front of millions of viewers, the hits increased rapidly on my one-on-one article about Roger Federer wearing a Rolex.”

The haute horlogerie brand Audemars Piguet, high-end brand Montblanc and women’s jewelry brand Chopard make their entrance within the first 15 positions, most likely due to the amazing level of notoriety of their ambassadors in the BRIC markets. Sachin Tendulkar’s 2nd position, Preity Zinta’s 3rd position and Eva Green’s 8th position in India clearly result in their entry into the global ranking.

europa star.com

International icons’ attraction Tiger Woods is now the n°1 ambassador (26.5%), and “one of the most powerful brands on the planet, as a man and an ambassador” adds Benjamin Clymer, Editor, www.hodinkee.com, and Invited Contributor. Without a doubt, these results could be a consequence of his recent private life’s exposure. But the debacle that unfolded with the worldwide golf superstar is generating many more searches on his name – especially during November and December 2009 – and may be delaying a potential negative effect on the TAG Heuer brand. Nevertheless, TAG Heuer’s presence with 5 of the Top 30 Most Searched Ambassadors – against 8 last year -, still represents the greatest share of searches related to brand ambassadors, with almost 35%.

Nevertheless, Omega, for which the Olympic Games – reflected by last year’s Michael Phelps’s pole position – and the James Bond Quantum of Solace movie effects are now over, falls behind TAG Heuer in terms of searches on their brand ambassadors, with just 17.5% compared to 32.5% in 2009. “It is interesting to note that while Daniel Craig, the actor who played James Bond, is relatively low on the list, his watch, which is best associated with the character, is number one on the list of most searched models” adds Benjamin Clymer.

When we look closer at the BRIC markets in particular, Tiger Woods interestingly only ranks 13th, while Aishwaray Rai is naturally in first place, namely thanks to high search volumes coming from India. This considerably impacts the ranking, with tremendous consumer appeal for Bollywood superstars and national athletes, boasting almost two out of every three searches on brand ambassadors, all BRIC markets considered.

WORLDWATCHWEB 71

Western celebrities Nicole Kidman, Roger Federer, John Travolta and Leonardo DiCaprio seem to be extremely popular among BRIC market consumers. Gisele Bundchen, Lisa Ray and Maria Sharapova perform well even if they don’t appear in the Top 15 when considering all countries as a whole. Adding India to the study’s scope results in Audemars Piguet and Sachin Tendulkar, the famous Indian cricket player, leading the ranking of the most searched haute horlogerie brand ambassadors. Indeed, more than one out of every two searches (55%) concern Tendulkar, pushing the 2008 number one Jaeger-LeCoultre actress Diane Kruger to second place.

According to Anita Khatri, General Manager, Times of India, and Invited Contributor, the local demand for specific models in India are directly linked to the brand ambassador strategies: “TAG Heuer’s Carrera is promoted by Bollywood’s most successful filmstar Shah Rukh Khan, not to mention the brand’s other ambassadors Leonardo DiCaprio and Tiger Woods. Omega is promoted by Abhishek Bhachan and Nicole Kidman. Rolex is promoted by Roger Federer. All these brand ambassadors are extremely popular among Indians”.

In the coming years, it is likely that other ambassadors coming from the BRIC markets are going to challenge Hollywood actors and renowned Western athletes.

Listening to online communities Having access to a measure of a potential ambassador’s reach and clout in key markets can serve as an excellent negotiating tool. And making the right choice from the start will protect a company from the costly legal fees involved in prematurely ending a contract. Integrating online insights Share of ambassadors searches by brand into the selection and validation process, January to December 2009 ©IC-Agency 2010 brands can advance to the next level of campaign optimization, seizing every opportunity to promote the ambassadorproduct association for maximum return.

With the current trend of asking the Internet public for marketing and innovative product ideas, the next generation of brand ambassadors may even be chosen and promoted by the online communities themselves. O

72 THE EUROPA STAR KNOWLEDGE

europa star

Knowledge is power RSophie Furley

W

When customers know more about watches than the person selling to them, you know there’s trouble. Unfortunately, with websites, blogs, magazines and more, many customers come into the shop armed with information that might catch the salesperson unawares.

It’s hard enough to stay on top of the watch lines you sell, it’s even harder to be aware of all the competition has to offer.

There is only so much time in a day and often salespeople don’t feel like seeing another watch after a long day, much less do research.

So, when that ‘whale’ (industry parlance for big spender/collector) walks into the store, many salespeople will find themselves at a distinct disadvantage, as the customer might be more knowledgeable about the lines the store carries, the competition and even the industry itself. Add to this the fact that many customers are the victim of disinformation, and you have a recipe for disaster, from the store’s perspective.

Europa Star and Keith W. Strandberg, international editor, are out to remedy this situation by offering the first industry-wide training program for watches.

“We came up with the idea for the Knowledge because of what I was hearing from the retailers themselves, who were bemoaning the fact that their salespeople were behind the eight ball when it came to information on the brands,” says Strandberg. “I remember attending a training session by TAG Heuer and it was fantastic – an all day affair, but at the end of the eight hours, these salespeople were well trained on TAG, but they had 20 other brands they had to master.”

The Europa Star Knowledge, a four day watch training program to be held right before Basel in 2011, is designed to arm salespeople with the essential information they need to talk knowledgably with customers. “We will give these people a general understanding of watchmaking, as well as in depth knowledge of the brands they carry and sell against, from an objective point of view,” Strandberg explains.

“Brand training is great, but it’s focused on one brand, while we are objective and can talk about any and every brand.”

In addition, Strandberg and his trainers will offer workshops on watchmaking, history, trends in the industry, complications and much more.

The goal of the Knowledge is to arm the retail salesperson with the latest and most complete knowledge on watches and the watch industry available. “We want our Knowledge Masters

to be able to help every single customer that walks through the door, no matter what they are asking about and what they know (or don’t know) about watches,” says Strandberg.

The four day program will talk about trends in the industry, how watches are made, how watches work, analyze key companies and their competition, all tailored to the students’ needs. In addition, the class will visit a watch manufacture and the famous International Watch Museum in La Chaux-du-Fonds.

The nuts and bolts The inaugural Europa Star Knowledge will be held in Yverdon-les-Bains, Switzerland, prior to the 2011 BaselWorld, so retail salespeople can attend the four day workshop, then go on to BaselWorld. The dates are March 20 – March 23, 2011 (with BaselWorld starting on March 24, 2011).

At the end of the workshop, there will be a test and all who pass will be officially certified as Level 1 Masters of Watchmaking Knowledge

by Europa Star.

This first Europa Star Knowledge Retail Training is limited to just 20 participants from around the world. Sign up today, on-line, at www.europastar.com/the-knowledge.

For more information or any questions, please e-mail watch-knowledge@europastar.com.

BASELWORLD THE WATCH AND JEWELLERY SHOW MARCH 24 – 31, 201 1

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CONTACTS PROMOTE SUCCESS.

MUNICH, 25 – 28 FEBRUARY 2011 Messe München GmbH Tel: (+49 89) 9 49 -1 13 98 info@inhorgenta.de www.inhorgenta.com

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38th International trade fair for jewellery, watches, design, gemstones and technology

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Managing Director: Philippe Maillard EDITORIAL Editor-in-Chief: Pierre M. Maillard • pmaillard@europastar.com Senior Editor: D. Malcolm Lakin • mlakin@europastar.com International Editor: Keith W. Strandberg • keiths821@aol.com Managing Editor: Sophie Furley • sfurley@europastar.com Asst. Publisher: Nathalie Glattfelder • nglattfelder@europastar.com CONTRIBUTORS • Italy: Paolo de Vecchi • Germany: Gerhard Claussen • France: Antoine Menusier • UK: Michael Balfour • Australia: Martin Foster • Russia: Vyacheslav Medvedev • Portugal: Miguel Seabra • Rumania: George Gisca • Art & Techniques of Watchmaking: Jean-Claude Nicolet ART Alexis Sgouridis • asgouridis@europastar.com Dummy: Fonderie Grafix, Geneva MARKETING & CIRCULATION PRINT/E-MEDIA Marketing & Circulation Director: Nathalie Glattfelder • nglattfelder@europastar.com Marketing & Circulation Manager: Jocelyne Bailly • jbailly@europastar.com PUBLISHING & PRODUCTION PRINT/E-MEDIA Production Director: Francine Papaux • fpapaux@europastar.com Advertising Manager: Laurence Chatenoud • lchatenoud@europastar.com

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Editorial & Advertisers’ index A, B Agenhor 32, 69 Anglex SA 27 Appetime 52, 53 Arcadia 50-51 Armand Nicolet 38, 40, 42, 45 Artisans Horlogers 32 Audemars Piguet 70, 71 Badollet 44 BaselWorld 73 Baume & Mercier 71 Bell & Ross 37 Breitling 28, 30, 32, 67, 70, 71 Brera Orologi 55 Bulgari 20, 22, 24 Bunter 50 C, D Carl F. Bucherer 29, 35, 40, 46 Cartier 12, 69 Casio 54 Chanel COVER II, 1 Chopard 46, 70, 71 Christophe Claret 32 Citizen 32, 43 Concepto Watch Factory 32 Corum 44 Cousins Global 75 Damoiselle D 44 Daniel Roth 20, 22, 24 Diesel 55 Dior 45, 67 E, F Ebel 48-49, 67, 71 ETA 12, 26

Eterna 24, 26, 27, 35, 36, 40, 42 Fiedler SA 62-65 Fossil 55 Franck Müller 67, 69 Frédérique Constant 36 G George Daniels 69 Gérald Genta 20, 22, 24 Girard-Perregaux 24 H Hamilton 36 Haruo Suekichi 2 Haurex 54 Hautlence 31, 36, 42, 45 Hermès 17, 46 Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair 57-60 H. Moser & Cie. 14 Hublot 12, 13, 14, 71 I, J Ice Watch 57, 59 Inhorgenta 75 IWC 35, 36, 38, 40, 67, 71 Jacques Farel 56 Jaquet Droz 35 Jaeger-LeCoultre 3, 5, 36, 38, 40, 67, 69, 71 Jean Dunand 25 JS Watches 69 L Lacoste 54 Lambretta 53

Levis 55, 58 Longines 70, 71 LVMH 2, 16 M, N Maurice Lacroix 26, 32, 67 Max 60 Max Chocolatier 48-49 MB&F 45 Michele Watches 53 Milus 10-11, 35, 36, 40, 42, 46 Montblanc 70, 71 Moser & Cie 14 Nixon 53, 54, 55 Nooka 54, 55 O o.d.m. 52, 53, 54, 58 Omega 36, 67, 70, 71 Orient Watch Company 47 Oris 36 P, Q Panerai 67 Patek Philippe 34, 35, 36, 38, 42, 46, 67, COVER IV

Pequignet 22, 37 Phosphor 59, 60 Piaget 34, 36, 38, 40 Porsche Design 35 Que 56 R Rado 67, 71 Rainbow Watch 60 Ralph Lauren 15, 36, 38, 40, 42, 69 Richemont Group 2, 42 RM Horlogerie 27 Rodania 41 Roger Dubuis 45 Rolex 6, 16, 67, 70, 71 Romago Design 59 Ronda 61 RSM SA 27 Rumba Time 53, 55 S, T Schwarz Etienne 27, 28 Seiko COVER III Sheeran Jewellers 66-67 Solus 58

Swarovski 21 Swatch 52, 53, 54, 55 Swatch Group 2, 12, 26 TAG Heuer 12, 19, 67, 70, 71, 72 Thomas Prescher 69 Tissot 67, 68 Titoni 39 TKO 55 Too Late 53, 54 Tudor COVER I, 6-9 U, V Ulysse Nardin 44 Vacheron Constantin 36, 38, 40 Victorinox Swiss Army 33, 69 W Waeber HMS SA 62-65 Wize & Ope 59 Z Zenith 14, 16, 18, 20, 23, 44, 67, 69 Zerone 58, 59

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80 LAKIN@LARGE europa star

Thirteen and still counting …

This year’s Pulitzer Prize for fiction was awarded to Paul Harding for his book entitled Tinkers. It is not, as I thought, a story about a philosophical Irishman, it’s about a father and son, Howard and George Crosby. As George is dying, the story of the family’s past unfolds and we discover that his father, a tinker, was an epileptic and that George himself repaired clocks for a living. The author also quotes from a fictitious reference book entitled The Reasonable Horologist by the Rev. Kenner Deavenport, 1783, which he quotes from and uses to plant a philosophical concept: "Our greatest clock men find that poetry resides in the human process of distilling civilization from riotous nature!"

It’s an outstanding read.

Tinkers in the old days used a horse and cart to travel and get to out-of-the-way places carrying stocks of pots and pans, soap, shirts, trousers, miracle remedies for known and unknown illnesses and a catalogue from which items could be ordered. Today, the tinker has been replaced by anonymous telephone salespeople, and the average punter now tends to make his or her own weekly pilgrimage to a supermarket where they can purchase all they need and be convinced to buy things they really don’t need by subliminal advertising or skilfully placed displays beside the checkout point.

The day of the tinker has been lost forever ... or has it?

“Salut les copains,” is how he always greets us on the beach if I’m not alone, or “Salut mon copain,” if I am alone. The ‘he’ is Mamadou. And he is as much a part of Menton’s summer landscape as the sky-blue sea, the inevitable sun, the blue mountains or the colourful and heavily laden stalls in the fruit and vegetable market.

Mamadou too is also heavily laden with his own colourful goodies that he brings from his native Senegal before summer’s influx of tourists : lined and zipped cotton beach bags decorated with elephants and African vases with typical colourful designs; he has baubles, beads and bracelets, multi-coloured kaftans for the ladies, belts for the men, pouches that you hang around your neck to carry your mobile telephone and other valuables, a stack of hats on his head, sunglasses and, from time to time, inexpensive glitzy Chinese watches for an ostentatious shimmy in the local disco or to amplify the sparkle in the more up-market ones in Monte Carlo. (Out of interest, for those of you who like to financially speculate in the Principality’s famous casino,

and your take-home pay is far less than your entrance fee, there’s a local bus that will bring you back the nine and a half kilometres to your digs in Menton for just one Euro – the price of a coffee in one of the beach cafés.)

But back to Mamadou. He told me he has just celebrated the birth of a daughter and because he was plying his trade in Menton couldn’t attend the aqiqa, a ceremony carried out on the seventh day after her birth during which a sheep is slaughtered and the child's hair is cut.

“How many children do you have Mamadou?” I asked “Thirteen,” he replied with a broad grin. “My eldest, a son, is thirty-three.”

I must have looked a little surprised because he quickly added, “ As a Muslim I have three wives, I’m allowed four, but I only have three.”

Mamadou returns home in October for six months and he’ll be back next year, as usual, dressed in his robes bedecked with all the paraphernalia of his profession. As he says with a sly wink, “After my six month period of abstinence in Menton, God willing, there may be another aqiqa next year!”

And talking of Africa, Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson went into the Sahara desert on a camping trip, set up their tent, and after some medicinal brandy turn in for the night. Some hours later, Holmes awakens Watson with, “Watson, look up at the sky and tell me what you see.”

“I see millions of stars,” he replies.

“And what does that tell you Watson?'

After a moments pause, he says, “Well, astronomically, it tells me that there are many galaxies and thousands of planets. Theologically, it's evident the Lord is omnipotent and we are insignificant in the overall scheme of things. Meteorologically, it seems we will have a beautiful day tomorrow and horologically it must be around three o’clock in the morning. What does it tell you Holmes?”

“Someone’s stolen our bloody tent Watson!”

Well, you’ve got to laugh haven’t you?

D. Malcolm Lakin Roving Editor

28 years. 230 patents.

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