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TRENDS & COLOURS | CIJ International | www.cijintl.com
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The new Edition of
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B U T T E R F LY
WATCHES
Christophe Claret introduces
A NEW FLORAL WONDER by Serge Maillard
Once more, Christophe Claret embodies the essence of feminine watchmaking, with the new Marguerite mechanical ladies’ watch.
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here are as many ways to show love as there are ways to tell the time. Christophe Claret has tried to do both all in one go. As part of its very first ladies’ line – the Margot – the brand has released the Marguerite, a wristwatch made for women and women alone. The watch could be simply described as poetry in motion. It is underscored by a unique sense of playfulness through its seeming optical illusions on the mother-of-pearl dial. Each timepiece - it comes in a limited edition of four variants - tells a story, and inevitably it is one of love. Two butterflies flit around the dial, in the same way they do around a real flower, providing a playful way to commemorate the passage of time. The darker butterfly symbolizes the female, which rotates every hour. The lighter one is the male, and just like in nature it circles around the female, indicating the minutes. So we begin to see why Christophe Claret refers to this watch as the “ultimate romantic watch”. But the romance doesn’t end with the butterflies. The dial also features a second, more personal display. With one press on the pusher at the 2 o’clock position, the hour markers disappear, revealing the message: “Il m’aime passionnément” (He loves me passionately).
Christophe Claret’s Marguerite, with butterfly timekeepers This complication – which almost seems like a magic trick – is accomplished by superimposing two disks, which rotate over one another to deliver the romantic message. (Sorry to get technical and spoil the romantic mood.) But Christophe Claret would not be artist of mechanics without more tricks up his sleeve. Just in case the wearer of the watch was not convinced about how much she is loved based on the message on the dial, she can also consult the case back. She can now tempt fate by flipping the watch over and playing the classic “He loves me, he loves me not”game.
The Marguerite’s case back can tell you if he loves you In order to play, the watch must be held horizontally and accompanied by one or two movements. An oscillating weight then turns for a few seconds before stopping, at which point the ruby closest to the red-lacquered heart provides the response –“yes”or“no” in the center. That’s right, the sapphire case back provides an opportunity to admire the movement and to get a bit more certainty in the game of love, too! But Christophe Claret is not only
about love and games. The brand also means business when we consider what makes the watch tick. The Marguerite is equipped with a selfwinding in-house movement, whose double barrel ensures an impressive 72-hour power reserve. It also supports all of those “love complications” described above. Indeed, the Marguerite shows us that mechanical expertise and the feminine aesthetic can live together. In this case, they are not necessarily a match made in heaven, but a match made in Le Locle Switzerland! c
About CHRISTOPHE CLARET Christophe Claret started out as a subcontractor, and his genius lies behind a fair few of the watchmaking innovations a number of brands brought out in the 1990s and 2000s, such as the use of sapphire in the movement, the orbital tourbillon and the 100% titanium movement. He launched his own brand at the height of the 2009-2010 crisis, which was nothing if not audacious. Although he had to manage without the favourable winds enjoyed by some of his independent counterparts, who had broken away earlier, he is now able to follow his own inclinations and, finally, bask in the glory. These inclinations have led to the Margot, which pioneered extreme complications for women’s watches, the Aventicum and its ‘mirascope’, and also the playful variations based around Poker, Blackjack and Baccara. Christophe Claret continues to mine his richest source of inspiration – childhood – while presenting it in an eminently grown-up package.
WOMEN’S WATCHES & JEWELS
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SPOTLIGHT
Escada SS16, Paris Fashion Week
HERITAGE BRAND
GRECIAN ROYALTY JM Asscher “It is exciting to present new collections at IJL which bring to life the spirit of my family’s heritage, in a blend of the best of classic and contemporary. Our aim, for the future, is to create elegant collections of jewellery that can be worn every day, yet are guaranteed to turn the head of any jewellery connoisseur.”
JAN MAARTEN ASSCHER INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON
The name Asscher will always be synonymous with the iconic diamond cut developed by the Asscher family: master craftsmen transforming some of the most precious gems in the world, into legendary stones set into royal regalia, past and present. In their new collection, JM Asscher celebrate their heritage and craftsmanship, but in an innovative style. Artistic inter-
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pretation, and exceptional knowledge in high jewellery, have been combined to create prestigious contemporary pieces. Contemporary as they are, they would best complement grecian elegant cuts such as Escada’s Spring Summer 2016 collection at Paris Fashion Week.
SPOTLIGHT
EMERGING BRAND GEOMETRIC ASYMMETRY KATTRI
The London based emerging designer Amanda Gerbasi presents a unique and minimalist style, influenced by the architecture of Brazil, her home country. Amanda moved to the UK to study Modern Languages & European Studies at the University of Bath. After graduation, she enrolled on a Business and Gemmology course, discovering her passion for jewellery design, which would change the course of her career. She went on to establish her contemporary jewellery brand KATTRI, pushing the boundaries of aesthetics by marrying minimalist lines and architectural shapes with beautiful gemstones. With a great sense of humour, Amanda tells you she does not really do fashion. Yet her designs at London Designer Showrooms could easily complement Roksanda Ilicic geometric asymmetry in her SS16 collection at London Fashion Week.
Roksanda SS16, London Fashion Week
AMANDA GERBASI DESIGNER SHOW ROOMS, LONDON FASHION WEEK
“I don’t see myself as a trendy designer and I rarely check what new trends are. Being at London Fashion Week, however, I have noticed that rose gold pieces are preferred by clients and buyers. Since my designs work well with rose gold, I will take that into consideration in my next collection.”
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SPOTLIGHT
Luisa Beccaris SS16, Milan Fashion Week
DREAMS OF NATURE
“On a strong windy day on a sunny beach in Sardinia, a strange cloud caught my attention making me think that nature creates beautiful shapes, which you can admire only at specific moments and in a certain places...I believe that sometimes, wonderful scenes can create fantastic jewels”.
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BREAKING WAVES Botta Gioelli
Drawing inspirations from nature, Botta Gioelli’s handmade collections are distinguished by their light and harmonious forms, made to mould into the wearer’s personality. The Waves collection unveils the harmonious grace of sea-waves presented in breathtaking rose gold designs touched with tzavorite, ruben, and saphire stones. The collection aims to reproduce what surprises us with spectacular forms and extraordinary natural environments. When asked about what inspires him, Nicola tells you how wind can draw endless cloud patterns in the sky, tree branches can be woven into harmonious structures and waves breaking on the sand can draw endless wavy lines. I can’t help but relish in his dreamlike state by adding Luisa Beccaris SS16 collection at Milan Fashion Week.
NICOLA BOTTA INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY LONDON