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LINGERIE SWIM mag Inspired by Interfilière Paris & Mode City
SUMMER INSPIRATION FOR 2018 FACE TO FACE EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW A/W 18-19 FABRIC TRENDS MEETING WITH THE SWIMWEAR DESIGNERS OF THE YEAR SPOTLIGHT ON
Colombia’s creativity
TEXTILE PRINTING TRENDS & PROSPECTS
ATHLEISURE, A COVETED LIFESTYLE 8.9.10 July 2017
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#Editorial
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#Trends & prospects
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#Long live sports
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#Welcome to the world of fabric designers
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#Textile printing
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#Face to Face
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#Exposed A concept unveiled in January, a space confirmed for July.
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#Fabric trends F/W 2018-19
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#Product trends S/S 2018
Editorial
CONTENTS
AH, THE SUMMER! THE SUN IS IN THE OFFING, PEOPLE ARE SHOWING MORE SKIN, THE SUMMER SWIMWEAR, ACTIVEWEAR AND UNDERWEAR SECTORS ARE TAKING CENTRE STAGE!
Every woman is in search of the best-looking bikini, the most suitable lingerie set to go with her summer top or «performance» shirt for a sporty summer! Even if the social networks, blogs and the current environment provide our «dear consumers» with more fashion news than they can handle, the fact remains that they are increasingly on the lookout for new products, well-being and advice! This Lingerie & Swim magazine is designed like a fashion magazine that aims above all to inspire you and lead you towards new business opportunities. You need to stay in tune with the market to stack the odds in your favour when engaging new female consumers! Read the exclusive interview of a clothing designer who will reveal the profile of the summer 2018 consumer! Take a breath of fresh air as you explore the new brands at Interfilière Paris and Mode City. Discover the feminine side of sport, with Sportiv’, a new section at the Mode City show… Lingerie and swimwear have never had so much to offer as they do now. The opportunities abound, the fashion conventions become blurred and reinvent themselves.
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# Success stories Rocle by Isabella: the story of a couple of women Raffaela d’Angelo: a high quality brand made entirely in Italy
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#Spotlight on Colombia’s creativity
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#The summer lingerie collections
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#Enjoy the experience!
DO NOT MISS THE MODE CITY AND INTERFILIÈRE PARIS TRADE SHOWS ON 8-9-10 JULY 2017 IN PARIS!
INTERVIEW
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V A N E S S A C A U S S E , Doing designer and collaborator with Lidewij Edelkoort at Trend Union
TRENDS PROSPECTS
IMAGES HAVE EVOLVED, STEALING THE LIMELIGHT FROM THE WRITTEN WORD BY DEPICTING THE WORDS THEMSELVES. BE DIRECT AND CONCISE YET INSPIRING! FASHION IS BECOMING GREEDY, ALWAYS SEEKING AN IDENTITY AND A CREATIVE THREAD TO LATCH ONTO. THE SUMMER OF 2018 PROMISES AN ABUNDANCE OF INSPIRATIONAL IDEAS AND ASPIRATIONS. INSTAGRAM IS TAKING OVER THE WORLD IN ITS QUEST TO SHARE POETRY AND KNOWHOW, COMMUNICATE!
AN ENLIGHTENING MEETING THAT WILL GIVE US A CHANCE TO INTERPRET FOR OURSELVES, THE KEY ELEMENTS OF OUR SUMMER 2018. ______ #Given the current instability affecting society and this economic period that is lacking in confidence, is it possible to have something new to say? V.C.___ As a matter of fact, we are at the very heart of every hope and promise for the future. So, our answer is an unqualified yes! And actually, we could not have said it better ourselves, we will have to start by speaking out! In recent years, showing was the starting point of every branding project through advertising and promotional mailshots. We are at a turning point where the sharing of information has now taken over this central role. #Will talking and writing once again be in fashion in 2018? V.C.___ More specifically, we want CONTENT and are hungry for information because now we are able to glean information and we acknowledge its relevance but this is not enough. We always want to go further. Therefore, «saying» is the same as showing when communicating in the most understandable way is the initial aim. However, this also applies to sharing a lifestyle and a brand identity. #Isn’t the purpose of the brands to sell by showing their collections? V.C.___ Of course! Selling is their goal, but this will now be achieved by first establishing a strong brand identity that reflects a lifestyle and a state of mind. Before buying the product, we want to buy into the brand and all the values that it embodies. That’s why Instagram is such an important tool, inviting us to discover their private world like visiting someone’s home and interpreting each decorative object in order to find out more about the owner. #In the midst of all this information, is it possible to sniff out future trends? V.C.___ All the products that are shared by the brands and consumers alike, are a reflection of this zeitgeist. We are entertained and intrigued by this content. But the underlying trends emerge further upstream in the heart of the major turning points of our society and attitudes.
#How will the solution to these fundamental changes reveal itself? V.C.___ In this specific case, the summer 2018 will awaken our creative abilities in measuring up to our hopes and expectations and create some forward impetus in response to the challenges facing our society. Innovation is at the heart of every new development and will transform the fashion world for humanising hybrid materials and techniques which are continually improving.
#Will the lingerie and beachwear sector be affected by this drive for innovation? V.C.___ The fashion industry is constantly seeking to better itself given the demand for support, comfort and durability. This is the very reason why the sector that incorporates 3D effects, connected clothing and smart or emotional fabrics can look forward to a bright future. Women want reliable support, lightweight comfort and dream of a moisturising touch! Seeking the perfect figure for the beach in a shaping swimsuit but is resistant to our dives! #Does the summer of 2018 promise to be high-tech? Can we expect little creativity and warmth in this technological advance? V.C.___ Not at all! On the contrary, creativity is an integral part of every discovery and every technological advance. 3D technology will offer even more bespoke solutions, which will have positive repercussions on comfort as well as volumes, hence, we can expect a bit of extravagance! So, in theory, the collections will overflow with inventiveness and creativity, blending different areas of expertise and materials, while drawing inspiration from the finishing details used in sports and the luxury sector to produce carefully considered collections. We will have to be more creative in order to arouse interest. #Don’t think that this creative trend is only the preserve of the sales team? V.C.___ Lingerie as well as beachwear demands a certain intimacy with the product. Nothing is more compelling than user experience. It is not possible to cheat with a beautifully packaged product without the pledge of a real product experience. #Can’t wait to be there! Do you promise to be radiant women? V.C.___ Dare I say, to be dazzling! Metallic colours are on the way back in a big way with articles that are embellished and coated with gold or silver. The glossy finishes are reassuring but also so flattering, giving us a sense of worth. #Does design have an effect on the development of these areas of expertise? V.C.___ It is at the heart of these advances and the development of these skills. It now defines the collections, while taking into consideration every aspect of the lines and continually seeking to enhance the shapes and new ways of improving comfort. #How do you see the future? V.C.___ Exceptional yet affordable products. Freedom will characterise the field of experimentation and every bold move. I think that the fashion process, regarding production and sales, will be enhanced, building interactions with much greater warmth and respect. I feel very hopeful for the future and the survival of the clothing sector and its expertise. Women consumers have a key role to play in the market. Indeed, they are a driving force for the consumption that they are planning for the future! Demanding quality in the broadest sense.
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MODE CITY, INTERFILIÈRE PARIS & SPORTIV’
LONG LIVE SPORTS MEET THE MOST POWERFUL BRANDS AND SUPPLIERS NEXT 8-9-10 JULY 2017
Athleisure, a coveted lifestyle! The active woman goes to work by bike, dances at lunchtime, goes on a run in the evening... and her holidays often have a sporty theme: any excuse for an active lifestyle to tackle the day with peace of mind and poise. This is the task that the sports clothing industry is tackling with aesthetically pleasing looks and elegance. The lingerie and swimwear sector is no exception to the rule... on the contrary! Straps and wide belts are modernising the fits. This is where design can express itself to the full with structured fits that retain their designer looks. The colours are bright and emphasised with neutral colours resulting in a range of products that blends sophisticated technical features with good looks.
Did you know?* Nearly 1 woman in 5 claims that the most important article in their sporting wardrobe is the sports bra For 99% of those surveyed, comfort takes precedence over style when playing sports! Nearly 1 in 2 women spends over €75 annually on their sports gear.
*To answer such questions, Eurovet and IPSOS surveyed 1,000 women who do sports activities at least once a week. The survey group was a representative sample of French women between the ages of 20 and 55, living in urban areas with a population of over 300,000.
Anabel Arto
The figures of the market are on the rise, with sales in sports clothing increasing faster than that of the fashion clothing sector, to the point where it has even overtaken jeans sales in the United States. Whether it is to keep fit, stay healthy or just to feel good and boost one’s energy and mental well-being, women are turning to sports in huge numbers. In France, over 2 million people practise yoga and of the 8.5 million running enthusiasts, 32% are women.
Christopher Campbell
Maison Michèle
FROM ATHLEISURE TO STREETNIC… STREET WHAT?
Sportwear, activewear, athleisure… treetnic. The lexical field never ceases to develop in this society where practising sports has introduced concepts of comfortand technical sophistication to our clothes! Could this upsurge in favour of sport outrival fashion as the primary aspect governing the clothes we wear? Athleisure is developing towards ‘streetnic’. Described as technical, stretch and street-focused, the emphasis will be on advanced technical features and the creative and aesthetic aspects will be considered as secondary. The development of this new movement is expected to grow by $16 billion with an annual growth rate of 4% from 2015 to 2020*. The beneficiaries of this shift will be the specialised and innovative brands that provide high-tech products, while also building a strong sense of community like Nike or Adidas, for example… *Bernadette Kissane, Senior Analyst - Apparel and Footwear, Euromonitor International
DISCOVER THE 2ND EDITION OF SPORTIV’: THE AREA DEDICATED TO SPORT AND WOMEN, TACKLES THE ISSUE OF SPORT FROM AN UNASHAMEDLY FEMININE VIEWPOINT. THE ISSUES INCLUDE TRENDS BUT, FIRST AND FOREMOST, WELL-BEING AND TECHNOLOGY.
Our lifestyles are changing, our habits and what we want is too! An enlightening meeting with the founders of a new living space, Chez Simone, which is entering this women’s sportswear trend. A meeting too with Gianluca from Deep Blue by SPORTWEAR ARGENTONA, specialist in the sports area, who explains to us the extent to which activewear has become a recurring demand for lingerie, swimwear and activewear brands.
Aurélia Del Sol & Julie Aubert Founders of Chez Simone
#You created a new concept, Chez Simone, what more can you tell us about it? A.D./J.___ Chez Simone is an apartment where you go to treat yourself. A drop-in centre which is based on 3 areas: Eating well, Moving well and Living well. The idea is to demystify taking care of yourself in a setting where everything has been put in place so you can let go and unwind. Going there is like being at home. Chez Simone was born out of an idea: Parisian women needs a space which is like them, which inspires them and which responds to their needs to reconnect with themselves and unwind. #What is your view on women today? A.D./J.___ Women today are curious, full of life and desires. They want to take care of themselves and increasingly learn how to listen to themselves. They are not afraid of moving forward and breaking with convention. It is in this spirit that Chez Simone supports them #What is your outlook for the woman of the future? In your opinion, is this new lifestyle just a temporary fad? A.D./J.___ Taking care of yourself is not a temporary fad, it’s a way of life. We only have one body so we need to take care of it. Taking care of yourself, finding your own balance through diet, sport and mindset is essential. You become stronger, more rooted, more yourself. We are not talking about fashion, rather a lifestyle. We all have our ups and downs, moments when we want to give up as we are caught up in our daily lives and our worries. We are all human. This is precisely what makes this adventure we are living with ourselves so rich, this path which never ends and is always full of surprises. This way of living or rather «this lifestyle» is very enriching and allows us to open ourselves a little more to the world around us. As we get closer and closer to our true selves, we listen better to the outside world.
Gianluca Gallino Agent for Deep Blue by Sportwear Argentona. Exhibitor INTERFILIÈRE PARIS that will be present in July.
#What are your main customers regarding sport? Regarding swimwear? G.G.___ We are proudly suppliers of fine brands such as Le Coq Sportif, Adidas, Kappa, Moa, Macron, Montura and many others. With reference to swimwear and beachwear we would like to mention brands such as Banana Moon, princesse tsm tsm, Etam, Tezuk and others. #Have you recently diversified your range of products? G.G.___ Yes, we usually introduce about 30 styles every season - that means about 60 new styles every year - in order to support our customers’ research and development offices with up-to-date proposals. Among them, let us mention quite a few items dedicated to the «clean cut» segment, targeted to cycle wear and running as well as swimwear and beachwear. The aim of these specific fabrics is to reduce sewings and produce a clean and confortable garment. The response to this new range has been quite strong, so far. Also our updated range of elastic mesh is performing well. #Sport is in vogue. Has this allowed you to work with new customers in swimwear for example? Or with brands seeking more technical expertise? G.G.___ For sure there is a converging trend in sectors such as outwear and beachwear with regard to activewear. We are more and more involved in new project with world renown fashion brands Who identified our company as a specialist in activewear and they are eager to use our products in order to give a new interpretation to their sport-a-porter colleccions. On our part, we strongly believe in versatile items which allow for using apparel for several end uses. In the mean time, every day life is very dynamic too, so we are truly committed in developing Textiles which may be fit for this purposes.
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WELCOME TO THE WORLD OF
FABRIC DESIGNERS
Nicole Ferrari Studio
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IT’S THE KIND OF JOB YOU ONLY DREAM OF! It’s the kind of job you only dream of! Coming before the fashion designer is the fabric designer: being a designer is where the inspiration for the fabric begins through the creation of a pattern, a texture or an illustration. One would never suspect how important this step is in the creation of an item of beachwear or lingerie! The wonderful world of fabric design brings together many different areas of expertise: studying textures, choosing colours, creating patterns, drawing, putting together mood boards, mock-ups, samples, etc. In short, it is a highly-specialised and exclusive part of the creative process! Ask a fabric designer to explain the creative aspect of the role? The answer will not resemble that of any other type of designer. Without the slightest hesitation, his explanation will take you on a journey of discovery on whatever route takes his fancy…
Nicole Ferrari Studio
See Creatures
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NICOLE MCLEISH, Nicole Ferrari Studio, nicoleferraristudio.com INTERFILIÈRE PARIS exhibitor #Where do you find your inspiration? N.M.___ I find inspiration all around me really, walking on the streets and especially when I travel, I am more aware of what’s around me. I also buy a lot of books about the different textile cultures around the world and others about animals, flowers or any kind of images that say something to me. The botanical floral books are my favourite ones! #What is the biggest value of Nicole Ferrari Studio compared to the textile design market? N.M.___ Nicole Ferrari Studio offers is a big variety of prints, all of them hand-painted and then worked digitally into high quality Photoshop files. The biggest value is that every one of these prints are ready-to-use, and by that I mean that they are in repeat and always presented in two colour ways and two different sizes, being aware of the clients different necessities. Also, knowing that a lot of these clients may need to make small changes of these designs depending on its final use, all files are presented in layers so that they’re able to move things around, change the size of the background for example or even make coordinate prints with the different layers. #What are the specificities working with Lingerie/Swim brands? N.M.___ I have more experience with Swimwear brands, so what I have learnt so far is that you can never get enough colour into one print! The more the better, in all senses. I come from a Graphic Design background, where “less is more”, so I have really had to adapt myself to this contrary concept. I really enjoy the challenge though, it’s good to get out of your comfort zone. #What are your upcoming projects you’re dealing with? N.M.___ A part from working on my own collection of prints inspired in the latest trends, I am currently working on collaboration with an embroidery company. We’re designing a collection of prints for swimwear coordinating them with a series of embroidered pieces. As I am also a Graphic Designer, I am working in parallel on some branding and art direction projects for a new restaurant and a small swimwear brand from Barcelona. I am always working on and developing new ideas…it’s a never ending process with designer’s creative mind that runs 24/7!
See Creatures
SEE CREATURES, Creative Director seecreatures.com INTERFILIÈRE PARIS exhibitor #Where do you find your inspiration? S.C.___ I get my inspiration from many places. Nature…I love being outdoors. I love buying old books on many subjects for the techniques and themes. I also use pinterest and instagram too. I really enjoy visiting exhibitions or shows while I am travelling for work #What is the biggest value of See Creature compared to the textile design market? S.C.___ Curated high quality all over patterns and placed graphics. They are original, fun and different. They are digital designs ready and easy to use. #What are the specificities working with Lingerie/Swim brands? S.C.___ I have 13 years experience working across all areas of textile design. I really love working with the colours and techniques suitable for swim, active and also lingerie. #What are your upcoming projects you’re dealing with? S.C.___ I have recently painted a wall mural in my home town of Brighton. I am also working on a gallery show called Hothouse focusing on tropical plants and leaves.
TEXTILE PRINTING Inspiring, Encouraging and Surprising on Beachwear & Sportswear markets Although prints have been a staple of every ready-to-wear collection, and even the distinctive sign of the passing of the seasons and years for the brands, it has long remained on the sidelines in the lingerie sector, or even dismissed in favour embroideries, which are considered more noble and refined. Commonly seen in summer collections, it would seem that, at last, it is gaining a «foothold» in the lingerie sector with products that can compete in terms of their technical properties, encouraged by the burgeoning market for activewear. Indeed, prints now display a certain ambition: in 2017, the «vintage» tropical and floral motifs are everywhere, from the boudoir to the gym! Already inherently complex due to their delicacy and colours, they must adapt to different and sometimes capricious materials such as the lace used in the most delicate lingerie-corsetry articles or the elastic bands of compression tights. But the success of Seafolly’s swimwear, Adidas’s tights by Stella McCartney or Freya’s bras are due to a mix of creativity and the ingenious work of the manufacturers of the entire textile chain.
FIND ALL THE PRINTINGRELATED TECHNIQUES AT THE INTERFILIÈRE PARIS FORUM IN JULY
The industrialists have rebuilt the reputation of prints so that it is no longer the preserve of the flat, iconic Hermès scarf, which has dominated this domain of beauty in the past. Indeed, there is also a technical aspect to this. The ingenuity of industrialists can also be seen through the addition of new functional features made possible because of the printing process: inks with anti-UV properties for swimwear products, electro-conductive inks for connected textiles, etc.; the textile manufacturers now combine aesthetics, high-tech features and innovation. Finally, one cannot talk about printing in 2017 without mentioning 3D printing! This breakthrough technology opens up an unprecedented field of possibilities for the markets of second-skin clothing and «base-layers». Indeed, thanks to the ability to create a product from scratch that conforms to the body’s measurements through additive manufacturing, we can dream of accessories and assemblies that are perfectly suited to the morphology of women and different uses. Thus, Interfilière Paris is seeking to highlight all of the solutions and innovations now available in the field of printing for the entire textile-clothing sector to give educational and didactic INFORMATION to the visitors of the Interfilière and Mode City shows by means of a leaflet and a forum.
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IT IS IN A VERY COSY ATMOSPHERE THAT JOS BERRY WELCOMES US FOR THIS EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW. MATTHIEU AND JOS HAVE PLAYED WITH TRANSPARENCY AND SPONTANEITY TO DEPICT CERTAIN ASPECTS OF WOMEN TODAY.
FACE TO FACE
JOS BERRY, Founder of Concepts Paris Jos Berry is renowned around the world for her creative force. A passionate woman who has a lot of life experience: an art school student, a journalist and a beauty specialist, she has acquired an undeniable fashion experience. With a critical eye on the world which surrounds her, she puts her 30 years’ experience at the service of the Interfilière exhibitions by injecting a Fashion & Trend dimension. Expert in the world of Lingerie & Swimwear, she is also the Creative Director of Triumph International. She considers the socio-economic development of women as vital in her choices and professional directions.
MATTHIEU PINET, Creator of Exposed After business school, Matthieu Pinet got together with the young designer Romain Vitu and received the Who’s Next award from the Dinard Fashion festival. He then joined the Institut Français de la Mode (French Fashion Institute) in 2002. Having just graduated, the Prêt-à-Porter Paris exhibition called on him to create a completely new urban space entirely dedicated to Urban Wear.He then cofounded the Icône Paris agency, specialised in graphic design and web design. In 2013 he launched the «The Shape of the Season» website, the first discovery commerce site in the fashion sector in France, then Matter and Shape, his design offshoot in 2015. In 2016 he got together with Eurovet launching EXPOSED, a space which offers an original and eclectic vision of the industry.
WHAT IS YOUR VISION OF ATTRACTIVENESS TODAY? #If it were a woman? J.B.___ It would be a confident and radiant woman. I have in my mind an everyday scene in which this woman walks into a restaurant and everyone is looking at her. She is a charismatic woman, who has nothing to lose, in harmony with herself. M.P.___ Ct is an easy attractiveness, but in no way sought out. This woman needs to be comfortable with herself to be attractive to others - you are not attractive by seeking to be so. «Being at ease with yourself without ever seeking it». #And if it were a man? J.B.___ Certainly not being macho! A seductive man is a man who has something to say, who starts the conversation, who adds constructive feedback to what women are saying. I’m for interesting men… M.P.___ What I find attractive in a man, is when he can doubt. Me I want strong women and weak men - it is what entertains me at the moment... #And if it were jewellery? J.B.___ That’s almost too easy for me. I’ve have been wearing high-end jewellery for a long-time, but now I am wearing a piece of jewellery that highlights a pleasurable moment. Right now, jewellery is, for me, a reflection of my travels and my experiences. It is a part in its own right of a woman’s outfit: I could quite easily buy a ready-to-wear garment which goes well with the jewellery, and not the other way round. M.P.___ There is one piece for me. It’s ear jewellery: this piece here, like with lingerie, you play with the body and the shape; its a piece which reflects the personality of the person who wears it.
#If it were an accessory? J.B.___ «Neck jewellery» whatever the material: lace, embroidery, fur, it is all around us, it is a real women’s trend. Perhaps it’s linked to the Selfie generation which means that we focus on the appeal of the upper body. This trend is very present in lingerie too: you find it in the collections from Murmur, Dora Larsen, etc. M.P.___ An accessory which ends up serving as several accessories in one! It is the way you wear it which dictates how you use it. In my head I have a strong image of a Domestic brand: it can be a belt or a shoelace: a multi-purpose accessory which may appear both sensible and more trashy. #And if it were a word? J.B.___ «Pleasure», the pleasure to be seen, catch the eyes of others, to have your own tips to be appealing M.P.___ «unveiled», unveiling your personality. #And if it were a ready-to-wear garment? J.B.___ It would be a kimono. For me this is an amazing garment that you use how you like. It is a comfortable garment which suggests the meeting of cultures - it is so interesting M.P.___ It would be a simple blouse. Editor’s note: these are multipurpose garments which can carry additional different messages depending on the way in which you wear them. #And if it were some lingerie? J.B.___ For me it is the babydoll. For me this is the choice piece for seduction. I have in my mind the illustrious actress Ava Gardner or even Marylin Monroe. When I see this garment, I see women of all ages. There is a film which comes to mind and which puts across what I am thinking: Liz Taylor in Cat on a hot tin roof. For me the babydoll is highly seductive! M.P.___ I’m going to be more traditional, but I have in my mind a lace body - I find that it is the perfect garment halfway between lingerie and ready-to-wear! #A sexy woman is....? J.B.___ A sexy woman is a woman with a certain eccentricity, an assertive attitude, she is the one who decides! Like, in the past, Claudia Cardinale following the example of Liz Taylor, they embody the sexy woman above all! One of the most sexy scenes for me is Shirley MacLaine in that unforgettable bath that she takes in the Trevi Fountain (Fellini). M.P.___ What I find sexy in a woman is her independence! A woman who does not need the male gaze to feel beautiful, strong and attractive. #Creation is the key nowadays. - How is inspiration born nowadays? J.B.___ Inspiration comes from general life, over the course of my encounters. Popular art is the drive for my inspiration: what people touch or create with their hands. With brands? Of course, I was very inspired by the latest Miu Miu ad, which played with the crossover between ready-towear and beach wear and which removed the boundaries. It wasn’t new but it inspired me and made me want to go even further. It is also the approach of people like Dries Van Noten who travel, who invite you to experience our own story: they do not force anything on you, they offer you their perspective... M.P.___ Inspiration is everywhere! The wider you look, the more rich it will be. At the moment, design is what I find inspiring. And more personally, what inspires me is real people. It’s crazy, but watching what’s happening around me. More than what they are wearing or showing, it is the people themselves who excite me. #Everything goes so fast, trends are scrambled, «See Now Buy Now» is upturning the order of things: who dictates fashion nowadays? J.B.___ The consumer has been troubled as she receives too much information. Her house has become essential, her ability to open herself to décor, with a growing sensitivity to colour requiring her to change. These women just have a more assertive sensitivity to fashion. Yet their satisfaction in life nowadays is not just about fashion. It is the other worlds which lead them to dictate fashion differently: when we see nowadays that colours such as orange or green are very popular, these are colours borrowed from other worlds. M.P.___ This is the whole tragedy, nowadays, in my opinion, that the consumer dictates fashion. We seek to seduce more than surprise and it is a shame. Brands need to pick up the torch and update themselves by surprising the consumer! A good retailer is a retailer who takes risks, who anticipates the desires and needs of their customers. We need to find something fresh, some joy, we need to have a good time!
UNCOVER BECOME EXPOSED
a con cep t u nveile d in Ja nua ry, a spa ce confirm ed fo r J u ly. . .
EXPOSED WE WERE UNCOVERED ... Following the success at the International Lingerie Show last January, this alternative format, which was renamed EXPOSED, has been organised in a summer version for the upcoming MODE CITY International Lingerie and Swimwear show.
According to Matthieu Pinet, creator of Exposed «the lingerie and swimwear sectors have never been as prolific in terms of their offering as they are today. The opportunities in this area are incredible.» July, there will be a minor revolution: Exposed will unveil a sophisticated, avant-garde and uncompromising swimwear, lingerie, resortwear and beauty offer. Well-known brands, alternative labels and highly sophisticated creators have already confirmed their attendance. 5THPOSITION • ALBERTINE • ARABELLA LONDON • BALL PAGES • BOWER • COLLAR • D NU D • ESQUISSE • HESPER FOX • LA SERVIETTE PARIS • L’ANGELIQUE • LE PETIT TROU • LEAH SHLAER • MAISON LEJABY • MC ALSON • MYMARINI • ONLY HEARTS • OPAAK • PALM • PALOMA CASILE • SURO • SUSAN BIJL • SWIM WITH MI • VERONICA DREYER • VILEBREQUIN...
MEET LA SERVIETTE PARIS Simon Thisse, Co-founder #Are you a luxury accessory brand, or are you supplying your products currently or in the future? S.T.___ We are currently distributed in Paris in the shops of Sarah Schultz with whom we have recently concluded a partnership: the entire collection will bear the iconic colours of the designer! But also in the Voyageurs du Monde shop, the travel agency that fits in so well with the image of La Serviette Paris. Finally, several concept stores have already been won over such as Biutiful in Annecy, La Maison sur l’Île in Porto-Vecchio or even Flappers in Tokyo. We are hoping to join forces with the selection of shops on the coasts of France as well as the mainland stores. The owners of second homes with swimming pools are very partial to beautiful bath towels. Finally, given the universality of the joys of swimming and relaxation, we are very hopeful that La Serviette Paris will be present on the beaches and around swimming pools throughout the world! #Where do you get your inspiration to create your bath towels? S.T.___ In our daily lives and our travels. Matthieu - the co-founder - used to live in Colorado and I in Uruguay. This is what gave rise to the NAVAJO models and the turquoise blue colour series for example. The Parisians and the home of the Café de Flore have also helped us to create the DOT model with polka dots. But we also draw a lot of inspiration from artists like Guy Bourdin, Tom Wesselmann or even David Hockney, of course! What we love is the harmony between warm and contrasting colours. Towels are a real product for aesthetes, lovers of art, colours and life! #What do you expect from Exposed? S.T.___ Getting together! Matthew and I operate largely on a human level. We enjoy meeting people who have the same passion for quality, high standards and aesthetics as we do! Let’s add a touch of beauty to our stunning beaches and pools!
Bower
La Serviette Paris
BOWER Fiona Ryn, Founder and Creative designer #How would you define your brand? F.R.___ Bower is a swim and resort brand that redefines the category. We are focused on simple yet well-made cuts that are sexy, grown up and fun. We are also proudly European and follow a sustainable and ethical approach. Do you expect from exported? F.R.___ We are expecting Exposed to be a very well edit selection of brands that compliment each other - giving the feeling of a boutique rather than trade show. The buyers will be able to find new young designers without being overwhelmed. Suro
#What is the product which defines best your brand DNA? F.R.___ The product that defines our brands DNA is our Hutton One Piece and Tangiers Bikini Top & Bottom. Although super simple at first glance they are beautifully constructed and the fit is just right.
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A/W 18-19 Fabric TRENDS
Fashion should celebrate life while lingerie is still a more intimate feminine domain that is immediately associated with feelings and fantasies which are to be cherished and expressed. Let us look at the lives of contemporary women, what they like, how they dream, what makes them happy: what are their priorities?
GET THE WHOLE FABRIC TRENDS BY ORDERING THE EVOLUTION29 GUIDE MADE BY CONCEPTS PARIS: www.interfiliere-paris.com
BROWN IS THE NEW BLACK The a/w 18-19 colour palette Ghostly colours: neutral colours intensified with emotion, echoing a yearning for spiritual and tranquil beauty. These colours are the very essence of a new season, which has adopted a strange and mystical theme. Morning mists with frosty touches: transparent, veiled, frosted and blurred details, combined with sparkling whites. Brown, the new black! Dried leaves with chocolatey tones as well as the fascinating textures of mushrooms. The gold and brown tones blossom with the help of iridescent fibres and surface effects.
FIND ALL THESE TRENDS AT THE GENERAL INTERFILIÈRE PARIS FORUM ON 8-9-10 JULY! Vogue Italia Urban Outfitters Hanro
Still and as always... Lightness
Fuzzy, printed designs
Textured surfaces
The revolution of the Soft Cup
The keyword of the January INTERFILIÈRE show is the ubiquitous theme of lightness. New forms, new finished products using conventional materials and brandnew circumstances. After years of focusing on smooth and flat designs, we are seeing a major comeback of textured effects. What we are seeking: more refined textures and neat finishes. New colour effects combining pastels and browns.
The effect of prints: the collection plans and the merchandising are key factors in the new world of lingerie. The design consultants are steering away from product classifications that are too rigid. Prints and colours provide the central themes for telling stories. A new school of printing and decorative embellishments is daring to combine feather effects with camouflage effects, along with clear and precise graphic influences. Combinations of black and dusty shades. Brand-new trims using eyelash and pointed lace.
Velvet, burnout designs and alternative colours for a new era of bodyfashion. Lingerie is becoming an accessory.
Marketing aimed at reaching the so-called «tipping point». The moment when a slow development becomes a major transformation. Bralettes and triangles with conventional cut-and-sewn designs: no padding, no more underwiring. The revolution has begun!
Prospective materials or... the impact of materials
The resources of natural and sustainable fibres has become a major concern for the future. Textures coming from other worlds than that of flowers and ornaments, naturally. The focus here is on new developments in embroidery, yarn dyes and 3D lace effects.
SUMMER 2018 Product TRENDS
BEING CREATIVE: THE FINISHES. Summer 2018 awakens our creativity with committed multifaceted proposals. The products are very carefully prepared with the finishes that our figures deserve. Given the current instability in society and the economic period that lacks confidence, creativity is a pointer in the market, reminding us of the plentiful resources and promise of the human spirit. The collections are exceptional, with details that reveal the great dedication given to each design.
DISCOVER TREND & SELECTION THE TREND AREA DURING MODE CITY IN JULY
The summer of 2018 promises a flattering and innovative lingerie offer as surprising as the new generation of iconic, clear-headed and modern women with high-quality products in which the brands sign off their collections with the detail that their expertise is capable of. Beachwear embodies this underlying trend with iconic products, combining fashion details with showy and precious bespoke features that reveal a certain femininity.
Artistic finishes
Bright & metallic finishes
Minimal embellishments
Composed, gathered finishes
BE CREATIVE
BE DESIGN
BE LUMINOUS
BE ONE
The art of corsetry is venturing beyond past conventions by putting together amazing articles, with shapes that underline their modern looks.
The collections are becoming brighter with metallic features, rhinestones and shiny trims to attract the eye while also celebrating life. The design of objects has opened up the way with copper, gold and tin shades for our interiors and everyday objects. This has injected life into the shared values of celebration, thereby elevating iconic collections.
With lightness and softness, shape is still a priority for beachwear and lingerie products designed to enhance the figure and recreate a sense of comfort with symmetrical and asymmetrical cuts. The use of neutral colours that counterbalance the pastel tones marks the change in casual trends which are becoming more and more sophisticated.
Women listen to their hunting instincts to pick out bespoke products. These avant-garde collections are characterised by their exceptional nature. Every convention is flouted in order to fully embrace feminine creativity.
# 3D print inspiration # mix of materials # curved designs # layering adjustments # pleated, openwork, specifically chosen materials.
#couture inspiration # the warmth of metallic features # the contrast of materials # matt and gloss # showy femininity.
# combination of colours for graphic effects # symmetric and asymmetric shapes # contrasting lines # mix & match of techniques.
# avant-garde # committed # creative # unique # contrast of materials # fitted shapes # eclectic designs.
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A 100% MADE IN FRANCE EXPERTISE AND TECHNIQUE
ROCLE BY ISABELLA Beachwear designer of the year by INTERFILIÈRE PARIS and Paris, Capitale of Creation
This is the story of a couple of women, Emmanuelle Bonnetin, an export manager, and Isabelle Rivier, a fashion designer, who are passionate about their respective areas of expertise. In 2007, they both purchased the business concern of Rocle SA, for which they had been working, and dedicated themselves permanently to creating new prints for the lingerie market.
Emmanuelle takes care of sales, while Isabelle is responsible for the art direction. They complement each other: one taking centre stage, the other behind-the-scenes! Rocle by Isabella is the French specialist (Lyon) of the printing sector: «prints contrast with plain colours, in order to tell a story». The hallmark of their business is the faith they have in the need to offer unique prints: «it is essential to have a print in one’s collection. Particularly in the luxury sector. It can be a unique and memorable selling point. « The brands have understood the importance of having a brand identity that tell a story through their products. With a combination of expertise and sophisticated technology, the company was the first to offer ultra-refined prints using a cylinder and an innovative technique. Their main customers: Aubade, Van de Velde, Dim, le groupe Lise Charmel, Empreinte, Anita, to name but a few, have all entrusted work to them over many years: ROCLE BY ISABELLE IS A GUARANTEE OF QUALITY AND AN OFFER THAT IS HEARTFELT IN EVERY ONE OF ITS PRINTS.
EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW WITH EMMANUELLE BONNETIN & ISABELLE RIVIER #Where does your inspiration come from? E.B./I.R.___ It is a combination of things: shopping outings in various domains including furnishings, leather goods, high fashion, etc. I am aware of everything that surrounds me, whether it is consciously or not: a tapestry, a movie, an advertisement in a magazine, an exhibition, etc. There are no rules, each season brings different aspirations and especially a new creative impetus. I also look at the trend books with a personal preference for Concepts Paris. #You are the first to make use of new technologies (e.g. 245 mesh) to bring even more detail and technical sophistication to your prints? Can you tell us more about this? E.B./I.R.___ We really enjoy looking at what the first printing factories offered at the time they were using copper cylinders.We find a vast number of extremely detailed patterns. This ranges from Jouy cloths to micro-geometric patterns and includes romantic bouquets of flowers. In our view, subtlety and refinement are intimately linked. We are always looking for modern techniques that we can use to obtain this refinement. The latest generation of cylinders, the 245 mesh, was therefore an obvious choice for us. Printing is like setting a scene and we love to play with all the different techniques, sometimes blending them to introduce lustre, texture, etc. #What sets you apart from the others in this business? E.B./I.R.___ We have a style that belongs to us. This is certainly linked to the fact we really put our own sensibility into each drawing and each theme. The end result of this is a beautiful unity that runs through our collection. This unity is enhanced by a colour range that is very well thought out and tailored to each season and each theme. Despite the current trend in explosive motifs and colours as a result of the advent of inkjet technology, we prefer to prioritise refinement and elegance with designs that are simplified in their lines and colours. Thanks to our expertise, we work closely with most major brands to develop their own prints. It is this genuine relationship based on trust, an openness to the client’s needs and a two-way discussion that gives rise to the most beautiful lines…
Rocle by Isabella
#You won the creator of the year prize for 2017, what does this mean for you? E.B./I.R.___ It was a great surprise as it was our first swimwear collection and a wonderful gift for our 10th anniversary! It acknowledges the years of work we have put in and is a great encouragement to continue the swimwear line. A big thank you to all our peers and especially to our customers who have placed their confidence in us.
A HIGH-QUALITY BRAND MADE ENTIRELY IN ITALY
RAFFAELA D’ANGELO Swimwear designer of the year by MODE CITY and Paris, Capitale of Creation
The Raffaela d’Angelo woman is a very feminine woman who likes to be adored and loved. She is a woman who reveals her personality through her clothes. Created in 2004 in a small workshop in the north of Milan by Raffaela D’Angelo, the products of the eponymous swimwear and beachwear brand are entirely made in Italy. It is the fruit of the expertise acquired over a period of more than twenty years in prestigious Italian, French and Israeli lingerie and swimwear houses. Produced and distributed by Groupe Valery since 2009, the brand is currently sold in over 350 branches throughout the world, with its most significant sales being made in the following markets: Italy, Russia, Benelux, France and Germany. Greece, Switzerland and the United States are its main developing markets. For Raffaela d’Angelo, the fact that the collection is manufactured in Italy and the objective of preserving its cultural heritage are core values that cannot be ignored. Italy is not just a production location, but a real asset and plentiful resource which feeds into each item of the collection. The search for beautiful materials is a key task that it carries out in partnership with its major Italian suppliers: Ratti, Jersey Lomellina, Mantero, Junior SRL by Adele Zibetti and EuroJersey. The «Made in Italy» label is a real guarantee of quality for the brand.
IN CONVERSATION WITH RAFFAELA D’ANGELO, creator of the brand #How would you define the Raffaela d’Angelo brand? R.A.___ Raffaela D’Angelo is a contemporary swimwear brand. It blends romanticism, originality and elegance with a sense of excitement. Its exclusive lace and print designs are a feature of my collections. #How does your team work? Especially regarding the creative studio? R.A.___ I have a small team that works with me in Milan, in the workshop, my creative studio. We work together spurred on by my sources of inspiration! Constantly buzzing with excitement, inspiration is all around me. I draw everything, all my prints, my embroideries: then we create models of the collection using traditional methods (drawings, patterns, prototypes) before the industrialisation process in Valery factories in Italy. The staff involved is highly qualified, the seamstresses have exceptional expertise and can do marvels. Reigning supreme in this studio is a kind of perfect harmony that stimulates creativity in a very calm atmosphere. #3 words to describe your brand? R.A.___ Tradition, Innovation, Femininity. Tradition or the love and the search for ancient embroideries, Innovation or the creation of embroideries using advanced techniques. Femininity or the elevation of women in every aspect of beauty. #Raffaela d’Angelo is presenting her collection at the Milan Fashion Week, what does this mean for you? R.A.___ The brand is on the catwalks at Fashion Week in Italy because I would like to draw women’s attention to the importance of the swimsuit in the world of fashion. I would like the swimsuit to be regarded more highly in the sector. It should be viewed as a flagship piece, a true state of mind and not just an accessory. Federica Pellegrini, the famous swimmer and the winner of multiple world championship medals in freestyle is taking part in the show in order toestablish a deeper connection between women and water. I love this image of the strong, determined woman who achieves her dream through hard work.
Raffaela d’Angelo
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On the occasion of the 2017 France-Colombia Year that will be held in France from 23 June to 16 December, Mode City is one of the first events that will shine the spotlight on Colombia’s creativity, giving pride of place to the most creative and promising swimwear and lingerie brands in the country.
S P OT L I G H T O N
COLOMBIA’S CREATIVITY
PROCOLOMBIA organization for Colombia exports promotion Maaji
Caffe Swimwear
#What can France and Colombia bring to your direction? P.___ Relations between Colombia and France are at their best. The European nation has been an unconditional ally for our country. Its accompaniment throughout the negotiation of the peace process, and in particular in the United Nations Security Council reflects the French interest in contributing to the construction of a bigger, prosperous, competitive and modern Colombia. The arrival of the France-Colombia Year will not only reinforce all the bilateral ties that the two countries have shared for more than 120 years, but will also boost the cultural and business exchange between the two countries to increase export , international tourism and the growth of foreign direct investment.
THEY WILL BE ADORNING THE CATWALKS OF THE MORNING AND AFTERNOON FASHION SHOWS AGUA BENDITA • AIRAVATA • AMARELO • CAFFE SWIMWEAR • COSITA LINDA • ENTREAGUAS • ESTIVO • FLEXIBELA • GAROTAS • LAU DE LA • LUMÉ SWIMWEAR • MAAJI • MUNDO UNICO • ONDADEMAR • PALMACEA • PHAX • SAHA • SLENDER TOUCH • TOUCHÉ BALNÉAIRE • TOUCHÉ LINGERIE • W BRAND FACTORY…
#How do you think that this can have a positive effect on the swimwear industry? P.___ The French market is the second largest importer of bathing suits in Europe with USD 287.4 million in 2016 and a 15% share in the European Union. Moreover, a recent report by the MKI (Market Knowledge and Insights) states that the French are the largest consumers of swimsuits in Europe and represent approximately 1% of the total value of the clothing market in France. Consumers are looking for innovative products with electric colors, geometric cuts, ethnic and exotic models, stylish one- or twopiece swimsuits , lace, crochet and fringe and retro inspired bikinis with less revealing undergarments. The Colombian offer is recognized as an elegant offer, comfortable, colorful and innovative designs, as well as two-piece swimsuits, offers models like «trikinis», «monokinis» and «tankinis», in multiple colors and using materials of very high quality. It highlights the diversity and liveliness of tones to which are added handmade appliques and make it the hallmark, successfully positioning Colombia as part of international premium niche markets. #How do you think that this can have a positive effect on the swimwear industry? P.___ The Colombian swim offers all the features to satisfy the demand of the French market, which is highly sophisticated and very competitive. In this sector Colombia has what France is looking for and the year France Colombia is an exceptional showcase to present the potential of our swim sector so French companies can see in Colombia a world-class trading partner and a trusted supplier, and thus benefit from the increase in domestic exports to France.
P A U L A S A AV E D R A , CEO and Designer, CAFFE SWIMWEAR #What type of woman are your products created for? P.S.___ The Caffe women is elegant, sexy, chic and feminine in her own style; a world traveler, jet-setter and most importantly an over confident women. Caffe is best known for elevating beachwear to high fashion status with it’s sophisticated, sexy and undeniable stylish complete line of resort wear essentials for women who love to glam their beach wardrobe and for the little girls & teens, jet-setters on the making. Caffe designs are distinguished by their perfect jet setting lifestyle look of “Laid Back Luxury” that makes our women look truly unique. The end result is “head turning” pieces handcrafted in Colombia. #What message do you aim to send through your collections? P.S.___ When designing each and every piece of our collections, my goal is to make the Caffé women look and feel beautifully stylish poolside & seaside. Caffe provides everything anyone could ever want or need on any warm weather destination: innovative swim & resort wear that is effortless chic and sophisticated but at the same time wearable, luxurious resort wear in exquisite charming prints that easily translates from day to night and innovative handmade, statement beach totes with distinctive embellished detailing, making them the perfect accessory to complete our beach wear and resort looks. I aim to empower women through fashion, making them feel special and unique. #Colombia and France have been jointly honored this year, how does this make you feel? P.S.___ I think it’s both humbling and exciting to be celebrating the year of France in Colombia, it is a great opportunity to merge cultures, learn from one and other and plant seeds for the future, specially in the fashion field. France is the epitome of laid back chic and relaxed beauty, their ‘luxe decontracté’ and that special allure that French women seem to be born with, inspire the whole industry. I think Caffé fits right in with both the French and Colombian style, you can be walking around the Cartagena streets in one of our pieces as well as enjoying a day out in the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, both Colombian and French women like their chic and glam it up even at the beach and I think by the end of the year we’ll see that we have more in common with the French than we’ve ever imagined, each in their own style. PA U L I N A M A D R I D A R A N G O, Digital Strategist-Marketing Associate, MAAJI SWIMWEAR #What type of woman are your products created for? P.M.A.___ A Maaji girl is a Real Mermaid who believes in unicorns, has a crush on the earth, and is an earth warrior. She spontaneously stands out because she is beautifully authentic, playful, and whimsical. The #RealMermaid, travels the world creating her own path. She takes pleasure in finding the uniqueness and surprises each day can bring. She is confident and reflects her beauty in her attitude and her actions. The MAAJI girl knows that good planets are hard to find and feels proud to be an Earth Warrior. A Real Mermaid enjoys every moment in her day! She lives in the water an the mile around it and has fun with her friends. Always a morning girl, she enjoys a yoga session and a good cup of coffee ready to make her day an adventure full of treasures and surprises. No matter what she’s doing she always adds her passion to it! Last but not least, she always ends her day enjoying her favorite color...sunset!
THE SUMMER LINGERIE COLLECTIONS
A R E F I N A L LY O N T H E I R W AY ______
SHOULDERS ARE BEING BARED, BACKS ARE BEING REVEALED, TOPS ARE BECOMING SEETHROUGH... SUMMER LINGERIE IS A «WOMAN’S BEST FRIEND FOR THE SUMMER».
Simone Pérèle
Summer lingerie enhances the figure and lifts the spirit: wearing it is like putting on custom-made heels! Whether it is invisible, discreet or flaunted, each season has an offering of models with smart selections of summer colours, unarguable technical advances and unquestionable support. The brands stretch the imagination and are highly creative in offering female consumers a hybrid lingerie wardrobe that can be coordinated to suit their every mood: whether it is a bra tailored to emphasise the subtlety of a neckline, a top with removable straps, alternative sexy sports crop tops, flowing silk shorties you can wear even at the beach, the summer lingerie brands will surprise you each season with new adjustable shapes, materials and accessories that sculpt the figure! CHECK OUT ALL THE LEADING SUMMER LUXURY AND CORSETRY BRANDS AT THE MODE CITY SHOW.
#What message do you aim to send through your collections? P.M.A.___ MAAJI is a brand that exists to inspire and surprise #RealMermaids. Each collection is inspired by a magical surreal story and the result of a careful creative process. The MAAJI prints speak to the theme of every collection and are developed in house by our creative team. Innovation is the hub of this whimsical world full eclecticism and attitude. All MAAJI lines: Swimwear, Active-wear, Cover-Ups, Kids, Trunks and Accessories balance a unique mix of colors, shapes, cutting-edge silhouettes, textures and ubiquitous presence of details that define the brand’s philosophy. Their commitment to generating products of excellent quality, design, and innovative technology is illustrated in their creations and in every single detail of their garments. Each MAAJI swimsuit is completely reversible – offering two looks in one garment. Maaji has presence in more than 54 countries, has 12 stand-alone stores across the America´s, as well as numerous partners such as Nordstrom, Revolve, Amazon, Zappos, Neiman Marcus and Anthropologie. #Colombia and France have been jointly honored this year, how does this make you feel? P.M.A.___ As a proud Colombian Brand, MAAJI’s label reads: Made in Colombia with love. Colombia, a country full of charm, beauty and diversity is the perfect backdrop for the evolution of a brand with both magic surrealism and eclectic romanticism. Unconsciously, our collections will always have the cheerful and cheeky touch that characterize Colombians. We are a happy county, full of colors, traditions, and biodiversity. It inevitably shows through our garments! We love France and we have been part of the important MODE CITY for several years. We feel very proud to be nominated with such a recognized and admired country.
Lingadore
Chantelle
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ENJOY THE EXPERIENCE!
8.9.10 July 2017 Paris Expo | Porte de Versailles Pavilion 1
ORDER YOUR BADGE NOW! (admission to the MODE CITY and INTERFILIÈRE PARIS trade shows)
Fifth Sense Lingerie
€ 24 i n ste a d o f €3 4 mode-city.com / interfiliere-paris.com
FIND THE INSPIRATION!
400 brands of summer lingerie, swimwear, activewear and accessories.
300 suppliers of fabrics and accessories for the lingerie, swimwear and activewear markets.
3 brand fashion shows per day.
20 conferences and talks.
2 Personal Shoppers for the shops and the material buyers.
1 Summer 2018 trend area and a retail academy.
1 Innovation Forum: outlook of the printing sector.
2 trends forum dedicated to F/W 2018-19 and S/S 2019 fabrics General forum: Lingerie and Loungewear Momenti de Passione: Beachwear and Activewea.
Seafolly
EASY!
One dedicated point of contact throughout the year: hotline.visiteurs@eurovet.fr
A concierge service: conciergerie@eurovet.fr
An hotel service that guarantees the best price for your accommodation in Paris: www.modecity.b-network.com
Suro
A Lingerie & Swim mobile app so that you miss nothing at the shows.
NEW!
A new «B to B market place» giving you access for the first time to all the contacts and the global offer of your sector!
Get in touch with the brands and suppliers that you are targeting and speed up your business operations.
Enjoy the experience right now www.eu rove t.co m Watercult