Music & Dance Rave
In the late 1980’s acid house and raves
Madonna
Punk
Punk in the 1980’s was expressional, disobedient and boundary defying. Punk was the most rebellious era of the 20th century, challenging musical norms and doing almost anything to not conform to the pop culture fashions at the time. Though punk rock’s first wave was a strictly ‘70s phenomenon, the form most certainly bled into the ‘80s, where bands forged a more concentrated, speedy and aggressive form of punk. In the 1980’s there were large amounts of economical unemployment, which lead to teenagers dropping out of education, and turning against the Thatcher ruled government. Punk music and fashion expressed this political and sociological anger and resent through angry and unruly behaviors. Punks started garage bands, most with very little talent, which resulted in the trashy sound of Punk music, as we know it today. The 80’s saw the move from the punk rock look and music into new wave, a more commercial route with bands slightly toning down their looks and music to appeal to wider audiences, however, still conveyed a powerful defiant and expressional attitude. Punk rockers purposely lashed out at the new form of pop culture by tearing up their clothes, showing total disrespect and a DIY approach to fashion. They aimed to create an image, which was as shocking and intimidating as possible and they displayed their dirty arms and legs as a sign of their proud working class routes. This was the rise of the Doc Martins and Vivienne Westwood
Known widely as the unmistakeable ‘Queen of Pop’ Madonna has successfully broken countless socially acceptable boundaries for women around the world. With over three unforgettable decades sealed under her belt, she has created a resume of provocative music, courageous fashion statements and controversial opinions making her a muse for countless budding artists. Madonna was specifically influential and memorable in the 1980’s. In 1981, she went solo as a pop singer and became a sensation on the then maledominated 80s music scene. Although at the beginning of her career not all were prepared for nor expecting Madonna’s some-what rebellious and intense persona, Madonna’s take on race, sex, power and religion were televised to the world and began to lead the way for others to proudly shadow her success. As well as music Madonna has left her mark on the fashion industry in the 80’s, completely changing many notions of term ‘sexy’ by challenging generic female stereotypes and creating a whole new vision of beauty that many to this day still hail as their style inspiration. Of all her most popular and memorable fashion choices, ripped fishnets, religious costume jewelry and bondage-esque corsetry. Madonna’s fashion and attitude not only created a signature 80’s look, but it helped establish an independent and empowered attitude among women of the decade. Whether it’s her attitude, her style or her music, there is no doubt that generations after will continue to follow her lead for decades to come.
Goth
The term ‘Gothic’ became frequently used during the Post Punk scene in the late 1970’s and early 1980s, to describe the likes of bands such as The Banshees, The Cure and Joy Division. Not until 1983, was the Gothic term translated into the movement ‘Positive Punk’ - several years after the term originated – and later acquired the name ‘Goth.’ Consequently, Goth has quickly developed into a sub-culture; defining those with darker personalities, intrigue of the afterlife and fascination with the supernatural. Many would dress as a form of protest whether it be in defiance to the law, politics, social norms. The desire for attention prominent with Goths is a method in which to share what they stand for - rather than a narcissistic approach - nevertheless using fashion as a form of protest. In terms of style, inspiration came from the mourning dress of past Victorian eras, heavy black fabrics, corsets and veils. Furthermore, the elegance of black eveningwear was an aftermath of Goth in the 80s, which the upper class embraced. The Gothic aesthetic was translated into fashion and inspired the collections of designers such as John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Isabella Blow. It was the popularity of these trends that led to this culture evoking an essence of mystery and seduction entwined into death and embracing fear.
Aerobics
Aerobics Craze became a fashion trend during the mid 80’s derived from a cult interest in American dance musicals and movies such as Flashdance, Fame and Staying Alive. Olivia Newton- John’s music video to the song ‘Physical’ released in 1981 sparked a craze for connecting dance and exercise. Dance moves such as ‘The Grapevine’ became part of sequences in exercises classes such as Jazzercise, which led to Aerobics. Jane Fonda and Mad Lizzie from Breakfast TV were leaders of the Aerobics choreography that developed many significant dance moves from this period. Fashion reflected the high energy disco pop that was this craze and was represented through bright, boasted colours, skin tight leotards and tights as well as sportswear such as sweatbands, legwarmers and freestyle trainers. Oversized sweatshirts, slouch socks, baby doll dresses and leggings were all mainstream elements that made up this trend.
New romantics New Romanticism brought the energy of punk rock and established the 80’s with a new sound of pop. Peaking in 1981, born was the era of ‘synthpop’, which introduced a new sound of dance music that encompassed techno and electro pop. Visage, Duran Duran and Spandau Ballet were some of the bands that represented this genre. The New Romantic subgenre stemmed from the rising club scene in London and Birmingham. Billy’s and The Blitz Club were renowned for the ‘Club for Heroes’ night, which had a strict door policy for creative and subversive outfits. This sparked uproar for fashion as theatrical, elaborate and striking amongst the music scene of the time. Heavily influenced by David Bowie and Roxy Music the New Romantic style was a backlash to punk austerity; it was no longer about uniformity but more about individuality. Celebrating glamour, hedonism and ostentatious clothes many wore androgynous, counter-sexual outfits introducing exaggerated versions of upscale grooming such as men wearing make up and hair groomed into quiffs and mullets. Influences stemmed from British Romanticism, 1930’s Circus and Cabaret, Science Fiction films and 1970’s Glamour.
were born. This became the biggest youth revolution for decades, bonding one euphoric young generation while horrifying parents, politicians and police. This phenomenon began with illegal outdoor and warehouse raves. The freedom of these raves attracted many as nobody was in charge and the nights were usually orginised by the rave goers themselves. Rave and acid house was rebellious and exhilarating and highly influenced cultural and social habits and fashion. The rave and house music scene of the 80’s could be seen as the biggest youth revolution since the 60s. However, as these underground raves became more known the media sensationalised the dangers of acid house and the drugs that came along with this. As the movement grew it became an increasing challenge to authority. This prompted a parliament to pass new laws aimed at curbing the revolution. However, the movement still became increasingly popular and clubs such as the Haçienda in Manchester (1986-91), Shoom in London (1988-91) and the Astoria in London (1988) made acid house more accessible. In May 1988 i-D and the Face ran features on the emerging acid house scene, showing the growing influence this music and dance movement was having on the fashion industry. A rebellious and eclectic cocktail of fashions could be seen at raves in the 80’s. Bright, patterned and oversized outfits were the norm at raves and the infamous yellow smiley was seen on many t-shirts. Creating a statement was important, shown through wearing gas masks, fishing hats and white gloves and the iconic glow stick. This confident and free way of dressing shows how rave goers not only expressed themselves through the euphoric music and dance but also through the clothes they wore. It was about being expressive and confident, as well as comfortable as these raves could last for hours on end.