CURATED Magazine by Exclusive Resorts • Summer 2022 by Exclusive Resorts

DESTINATION:

SUMMER

You find the fun, and we’ll bring the fashion

NEIMANMARCUS.COM

I N FOC US

PORTUGAL DEEP DIVE A new Once-in-aLifetime Journey ensures a cultural immersion.

HIKES. HISTORY. DOURO VALLEY. Experience Portugal with the Club, and all are in a day’s play. Visit UNESCO Heritage sites, explore scenic coastal towns like Lagos (pictured), and discover locals in the know during a sojourn to one of Europe’s most buzzworthy countries. Portugal is an oenophile’s dream, and this curated vacation features special access wine tastings and stays at luxury properties like Six Senses Douro Valley. Port, the country’s most iconic wine, is the star varietal of this region and Members will gain insider access to those that bring it to life. Exclusive Resorts’ 2023 Once-in-a-Lifetime Journeys are Members-only vacations custombuilt and often impossible to replicate. Why? Because life is too short for should haves.

PHOTO BY: BEN WATTS

SUMMER 2022

CONTENTS 2 In Focus 5 from the CEO 6 Editor letter 7 contributors

FEATURES

44 call of the caribbean Nevis

EXCLUSIVE

10 NEW + NOTEWORTHY Go west!

52 take me to europe

14 day in the life

58 culture sophisticate

16 club connection

Paris

Scotland

TOPGUN CAPT Jim DiMatteo

European Villa Collection

18 PROFILE

CNN Host Carlton McCoy

20 MEMBER VETTED

The Reimann family in Mexico

SCENE

24 art of travel

The magic of Marfa; art standout Olivia Davis

28 RADAR

Haute list, by Stellene Volandes

30 WELL PLAYED

Kate Hudson and David Goggins

32 on the water

Yacht inspired sojourns

savor

36 TOP TABLES .

A taste of St. Barths

38 Cheers!

Pro golfer & winemaker Cristie Kerr

40 WELL SERVED

A toast to Nantucket

CONNECT

67 People, Places + Parties

Inspired events around the globe

74 PARTING SHOT Monkeying around in Costa Rica

on the cover Beach swing during sunset photograph by Ken Kochey

FROM THE CEO

—— CEO James Henderson mingling with Members at a recent Club event; a trip to Peninsula Papagayo, Costa Rica topped Henderson’s 2022 wish list.

RECENTLY READ AN ARTICLE IN THE NEW YORK TIMES ABOUT HOW 2022 MARKS THE YEAR TO GO BIG. After two years of stay-at-home orders and quarantines, travelers are beyond ready to explore. While we’ve rediscovered closer-to-home vacations and have reimagined the great American road trip, our 2023 Once-in-a-Lifetime Collection released earlier this year (with all 37 departures for nine itineraries selling out in record time) confirmed our Members share a go-big mentality, too. Of course, at Exclusive Resorts, we’ve always celebrated a go-big mantra. Since originally launching with just four trips, the Club’s Experience Collection has now expanded to more than 50 carefully curated group and private travel itineraries spanning the globe. To date, we’ve delivered more than 3,000 unique experiences. More impressive, however, is our Member post-trip satisfaction rating of 95 percent—for 10 years and counting.

facilitate life-long friendships. During a recent Member event, I learned about eight couples that traveled to Morocco on our 2021 Oncein-a-Lifetime Journey and decided to reunite in 2023 on a OIAL trip to Mexico City. These relationships are what define us. Because we’re a club. And that means more than just luxury accommodations and experiences. We create connections that transcend the day-to-day niceties of a traditional vacation and open the door to new opportunities and friendships. As I pondered my own go-big or bust vacations, three now top my wish list: the Kenya Wildlife Safari, a cruise aboard The World, and a stay at the Club’s flagship destination in Peninsula Papagayo, Costa Rica. My why to go big? I believe travel truly transforms us—as individuals, as a global community, and as a reminder of just how much there is to experience in this lifetime. TRAVEL WELL. TRAVEL FAR. TRAVEL OFTEN.

From African safaris and a Members-only Galapagos cruise on New Year’s Eve to a private jet around the world, our 2023 Once-in-aLifetime experiences are immersive and almost impossible to replicate. More importantly, these trips foster connections between Members and

JAMES HENDERSON Chief Executive Officer

FROM THE EDITOR

Departing St Barths via heli transfer; Eden Rock - St. Barths’ swim platform.

ALENTINE’S DAY. 3 P.M. I’M IN ST. BARTHS, attempting a

front flip off the Eden Rock - St. Barths’ iconic swim platform into a kaleidoscope of ocean blues. My “judge”? A screenwriter and fellow hotel guest I’ve just met, who had a similar idea. As more friends joined a spontaneous, ocean-inspired happy hour, I met a Dutchman, his adorable 12-year-old son, and a Brit who won a bet by leaving rosé-fueled tablemates at the resort restaurant to swim out and join us. To me, this is travel at its finest: serendipitous moments that lead to indelible memories with friends, partners, and family—and with travelers who I will most likely never meet again, yet leave a lasting impression by simply sharing an experience. With CURATED, we hope to deliver surprise-and-delight moments, too. We celebrate big personalities with positive, game-changing lusts for both life and travel. You’ll meet CAPT Jim DiMatteo, a Club Member who has amassed more TOPGUN Adversary flight time than anyone in the history of the US Navy and Marine Corps. We’ll take you on the golf course and in the vineyard with LPGA pro golfer and winemaker Cristie Kerr. Plus, you’ll meet CNN Nomad host and master sommelier, Carlton McCoy. I’m also excited to share dreamy features on Nevis, St. Andrews, and Paris by in-the-know writers. My hope is that within these pages, you’ll be further inspired to visit a come-hither locale that’s been calling. St. Barths was an island I’d imagined visiting for a long while, and I’m already making plans to return. As we head into summer, I wish you sun-filled days and surprise adventure.

HAPPY TRAVELS!

M A G A Z I N E

CONTRIBUTORS

editorial editor in chief erin lentz creative director karrie sims photo director stefanie michejda

exclusive resorts chief executive officer james henderson senior vice president, marketing joey whelan senior vice president, sales rachel regan vice president, marketing caitlin austin

brand manager, marketing samantha birnbach copywriter avery bredesen

contributors Amiee White Beazley, Jackie Caradonio, Mark Ellwood, Avery Bredesen, Ken Kochey, Amy Tara Koch, Drew Limsky, Stefanie Michejda, Jen Murphy, Amy Roberts, Andrew Sessa

JEN MURPHY Jen Murphy writes the What’s Your Workout column for the Wall Street Journal and contributes to publications including Town & Country, Condé Nast Traveler, Men’s Journal, Outside, and Food & Wine. She is also the author of the Yoga (Man)ual.

editorial inquiries Publisher is not responsible or liable for return or safekeeping of unsolicited manuscripts, art, photographs, or other materials. ©2022, Exclusive Resorts, LLC. All Rights Reserved. CURATED Magazine is published two times a year. Reproduction in whole or in part of any material in this publication without publisher’s permission is strictly prohibited. For editorial inquiries, copies, customer service, or to exhibit or distribute at a business, please inquire at info@tagmediaaspen.com. tag media

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1601 19th Street | Suite 500 Denver, CO 80202 For Membership information and opportunities, call 844.541.2714 or email MembershipDirector@exclusiveresorts.com advertisement herein for any product or service does not constitute or imply its endorsement, recommendation, or favoring by exclusive resorts, llc or its affiliates.

Club Membership is subject to terms and conditions of Club Membership agreement. Different terms and conditions apply to different purchases. Reservations for specific days, destinations and events subject to availability. Experience Collection vacations, certain services, amenities and other Member benefits may require additional fees, may have limited availability and are subject to additional terms and conditions. Neither Exclusive Resorts nor any of its affiliates is responsible for, or liable with regard to, claims related to a third party’s provision of, or failure to provide, services. Club Membership does not provide or constitute, any investment, equity or ownership interest, or any real property interest. Magazine content is for informational purposes only; the Club disclaims any warranty or representation of any kind; stories do not constitute the Club’s endorsement of any cause or program. See ExclusiveResorts.com for more information. Exclusive Resorts and the Exclusive Resorts flower logo are registered trademarks of Exclusive Resorts, LLC. ©2022, Exclusive Resorts, LLC. All rights reserved.

NEVIS TAKEAWAY: Order what the locals eat. I would have never tried fried pig’s tail or goat water if chef Jack Boast of Paradise Resort hadn’t convinced me to try the island staples. WHERE TO NEXT: Alaska to snowboard around Prince William Sound. CURRENT OBSESSION: Faherty’s stylish and sustainable terry rompers and linen maxi dresses are my dream summer wardrobe.

ANDREW SESSA Previously the senior travel editor at Departures and the former contributing travel editor to Conde Nast Traveler, Andrew writes about architecture, design, food, and travel for a select group of lifestyle and luxury magazines. Together with his husband and their son, he splits his time between Boston and Cape Cod. WISH-LIST TRIP: A return to Italy—the east coast of Sicily, around Noto.The olive groves and beaches of Puglia are top of mind, now and forever. CURRENT OBSESSION: Coleson Whitehead’s newest book, Harlem Shuffle. I’m loving the heist-driven plot and the way it opens a window into a part of New York City history I should have been more familiar with.

@exclusiveresorts

EX PER I ENC E T HE

Spirit T RUE OF T H E

A M ER ICA N W E ST

Here, red sunsets and starlit night skies instill wonder across 30,000 private Wyoming acres. Feel the authenticity of western adventures when saddling a horse, casting a fly, or restoring with traditional native spa treatments. Taste the flavors of the land through gourmet seed-to-table cuisine and indulge in richly-appointed amenities.

B O O K YO U R N E X T A DV E N T U R E AT B R U S H C R E E K R A N C H . C O M

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Amalfi Coast page 16

EXCLUSIVE

TANS FADE MEMORIES DON’T

NEW + NOTEWORTHY • DAY IN THE LIFE • CLUB CONNECTION • PROFILE • MEMBER VETTED 9

EXCLUSIVE

THE WEST AS MUSE Rediscover America’s backyard with these only-in-the-U.S. Club experiences. written by AVERY BREDESEN

DOMESTIC TRAVEL IS BACK AND HERE TO STAY. As such,

there’s never been a better time to rediscover the United States’ own backyard. Just as it spoke to early settlers, the West has continually drawn travelers toward its wide-open spaces, fresh air, and varied landscapes, from sprawling prairies and deep canyons to red rocks and towering peaks. Answer the call of the wild with these two experiences capturing the true spirit of the West.

HAUTE HIDEAWAY: BRUSH CREEK RANCH Spread across 30,000 secluded acres in Saratoga, Wyoming, Brush Creek Ranch is an authentic dude ranch gone luxe—think cowhide rugs, leather chairs, fireplaces, and fur throws alongside elevated amenities like 400-thread count sheets, plush bathrobes, and nightly turndown service. During the day, choose your own adventure from the property’s long list of year-round ranch activities. Summertime endeavors include horseback riding, ATV driving, fly fishing, bird hunting, rock climbing, outdoor yoga, and mountain bike —— The iconic Brush Creek Ranch, located in Saratoga, Wyoming.

NEW + NOTEWORTHY

EXCLUSIVE

NEW + NOTEWORTHY

—— Opposite: Moab’s famous Arches National Park. From top: Dining at Brush Creek Ranch; road tripping through Zion National Park.

riding. Come winter, take full advantage of the snow with cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and ice fishing—or simply warm up indoors with a relaxing massage at the Trailhead Spa. You can also carve fresh tracks on the private ski mountain, accessible to only 18 snow enthusiasts per day via heated snowcat. Younger cowboys and cowgirls will experience horseback rides, ecological trail explorations, and more during the Lil Wranglers Program, a fun and educational introduction to ranch life tailored to kids ages four to nine. Dining at the Ranch is more than the expected barbecue, burgers, and fries. Wind down after a day on the ranchlands with exceptionally rare, small-batch whiskeys and bourbons served in the Stave Room (accessible via secret entrance) before savoring seed-to-table dishes featuring ranchsourced ingredients and produce grown in the greenhouse. Expect a true culinary immersion, as Brush Creek is also home to its own brewery, a wine cellar with 1000-plus bottles, and a bakery. Custom culinary experiences include learning the fine art of cheesemaking in the Medicine Bow Creamery and crafting fresh-baked breads with the Executive Pastry Chef. Between luxurious amenities, epic experiences, and a serene setting, it’s no wonder Brush Creek Ranch has been named a Top U.S. Resort by Condé Nast Traveler for the past eight years.

ROAD TRIP: UTAH with ALL ROADS NORTH No other state has such a concentration of geological wonders as Utah. Explore it all—from Arches to Zion—on an adventurous, family-friendly road trip through the “Mighty Five” national parks: Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Arches, Zion, and Canyonlands. Hike, mountain bike, rappel, and whitewater raft your way through the ultimate week with scenic viewpoints at every twist and turn. Plus, you’ll enjoy private, guided excursions custom tailored to your family’s interests and abilities with Exclusive Resorts’ partner All Roads North. Stay in luxury accommodations along the way, complete with restaurant recommendations and off-the beaten-path stops. Each personalized road trip features a customized itinerary, curated playlists, and 24-hour support, all loaded into a custom app for easy navigation from start to finish.

EXCLUSIVE

THE REAL MAVERICK Club Member CAPT Jim “Guido” DiMatteo (US Navy, Ret) has amassed the most TOPGUN adversary flight time in US Navy and Marine Corps history. written by ERIN LENTZ

THE FIRST TIME I “MEET” CAPT JIM DIMATTEO IS FROM HIS COCKPIT. During a video greeting to Exclusive Resorts while cruising over Lake

Tahoe in an F-5 Advanced Tiger, DiMatteo’s passion for aviation, and life in general, is readily apparent. “Thank you for all you do to make my family’s life better!” he exclaims in flight with a grin, all the while calmly performing an aileron roll over Tahoe’s North Star area. The second time I speak with him, from his home in San Diego, his enthusiasm is equally elevated. Jim DiMatteo, who in 2018 was inducted into the Aviation Hall of Fame for his Lifetime Achievements in Aviation, has an innate ability to foster top-of-class talent—his own and his many TOPGUN mentees. And whether helping out on the Top Gun: Maverick sequel, traveling with family to favorite Club destinations, or motivating staff at one of his California restaurants, CAPT DiMatteo is all-in, all the time. 14

DAY IN THE LIFE

“A BIG PART OF OUR RELENTLESS PURSUIT OF EXCELLENCE IS OUR DEBRIEF CULTURE.” — CAPT JIM DIMATTEO —— Opposite: DiMatteo in front of his Tactical Air Support F-5AT at Naval Air Station in Fallon, Nevada. Above: Navigating the coast above Coronado’s North Island Naval Air Station.

His CV highlights are about as Type A as it gets: 5,500 hours in five different fighter aircraft (F/A-18, F-16, F-14, F-5, A-4) in over 25 years of service; Commanding Officer of both VFC-13 and VFC-111 (the TOPGUN Adversary squadrons on each coast); Commander, Naval Air Forces (CNAF) staff overseeing the TOPGUN Adversary program; the only US Race Director for the International Red Bull Air Races; Director of the Breitling Jet Team American Tour; owner and operator of award-winning San Diego restaurants and bars. Plus, his passion for travel is impressive, too—he’s visited 50 countries and counting. As such, the question quickly arises: How do you do it all successfully? “We have a culture at TOPGUN that’s called the debrief culture,” CAPT DiMatteo says. “Which means we’re going to go out and fly, do the best we can, and then come back and, ad nauseam, debrief the flight and say, ‘What area can I improve on?’” Debrief culture has fueled DiMatteo’s success from an early age. Both his father and brother were Naval Aviators, and though he didn’t feel pressured to follow in their footsteps, he graduated University of California, Berkeley, and did just that, learning from their journeys while building an unprecedented naval aviation career. In tandem, he also built a family with wife, Kathy, and their two children, applying what he learned during his own career to all aspects of life. “Getting into TOPGUN is like going to the World Series,” he explains. “A big part of our relentless pursuit of excellence is our debrief culture. It can be applied to any company, business, social

challenge, or personal relationship. If you keep things in and don’t talk about them, then how do you improve? How do you not make that same mistake the next day?” As a Club Member of 18 years, CAPT DiMatteo has noticed a similar ethos at Exclusive Resorts. “When I first met Exclusive Resorts CEO James Henderson at an event, I explained that one of the things I really liked about the Club was that they tend to have the same debrief culture: I come back from a weekend vacation, wherever it may be, and I immediately get a an email asking, ‘How was everything? How can we improve?’ And they engage in feedback.” He’s also quick to claim his own mistakes and use them to teach others. “As a leader, I always felt it very effective to start anything off with identifying my own mistakes.” His astonishing trajectory has not come without cost; his voice lowers when recalling the 50-plus friends lost to training and combat. As a fighter pilot, he explains, “There’s plenty of times, especially after having kids, that you sit in your bed at night and go, ‘Whoa that was a close call.’” Navigating close calls, however, is his continued legacy. And whether in simulated combat or helping out Tom Cruise on the set of the Top Gun: Maverick sequel, ultimately CAPT DiMatteo strives to pay it forward. “From a teacher or parent perspective, to see the happiness and growth of another person is much more rewarding than my own personal achievement. My approach in life is I’d rather try and fail at something than not try at all and regret it later.” 15

EXCLUSIVE

SOURCING FUN Curating the Club’s European Villa Collection. written by JEN MURPHY

EXCLUSIVE RESORTS’ WILDLY POPULAR EUROPEAN VILLA COLLECTION LETS MEMBERS LIVE IN LUXURY WHILE EXPERIENCING DESTINATIONS LIKE A LOCAL.

Hand-curated to include the most sought-after destinations like Lake Como, Italy, and Lisbon, Portugal, the portfolio is vetted and refined every year. Gina Bach, Exclusive Resorts Vice President, Experience Collection, oversees the selection process. “We know our Members have very high expectations,” she says. “For every 10 to 15 villas we look at, one makes the cut.” Bach and her team ensure properties are up to American standards and professionally decorated, with fully updated modern bathrooms, WiFi, and air conditioning. Infinity-edge pools, chef-grade kitchens, gardened landscapes, and stunning views are what draw guests to book, but experiences coordinated by local hosts (think in-residence cooking classes in Sicily), are what Members rave about. Most luxury villa collections work with a destination concierge to oversee three to four houses at a time. But Exclusive Resorts personally selects local hosts for each

European villa to ensure Members have the most authentic experience possible. “We personally train each host, so they are wearing the Exclusive hat,” says Bach. “We want the experience to feel like you have a friend in town who might meet you for an aperitif, share shopping tips, or walk you down to the boat dock to meet your captain for a sunset sail.” Over the years, the Collection has expanded from large, three- to sixbedroom homes on secluded clifftops or vineyards to also include more intimate, two- to three-bedroom apartments with prime locations in city centers within walking distance to restaurants and shops. Bach and her team carefully consider Member feedback when scouting new properties and destinations each March

CLUB CONNECTION

—— From left to right: Interior Club residences in Dubrovnik, Croatia; Club residences along the Amalfi Coast; Club homes in San Sebastian are located close to Old Town.

“FOR EVERY 10 TO 15 VILLAS WE LOOK AT, ONE MAKES THE CUT.” — GINA BACH

and April. Bach hints that Members have been asking for ski villas in the Alps as well as homes in Greece, and the team has been spending a lot of time looking at more properties in Spain (the 2023 Collection will be announced late summer). Always in-demand destinations like the Amalfi Coast, Dubrovnik, and San Sebastian will be included. Here, Bach shares what makes these escapes so beloved by Members.

AMALFI COAST The Amalfi is consistently one of the Collection’s hottest destinations, according to Bach. “You simply can’t beat the Italian coast during the summer months,” she says. Families book the five-bedroom Villa Bella for its central location in Positano, spacious outdoor terrace, and infinity-edge outdoor pool (a rarity in the region) with dazzling ocean views.

DUBROVNIK Europe’s latest urban darling is defined by its limestone streets, Baroque architecture, and pebbled beaches. Both

Old Town and the beach are a short walk from Villa Mare, a newly built, single-family residence with an outdoor dining area and multiple decks with city and sea views. Villa Arya is all about the location. Situated right across from the beach and within a five-minute walk to the Old City, Villa Arya sets you up perfectly to experience Dubrovnik. “The scouting team loves these stunning villas!” adds Bach.

SAN SEBASTIAN ”San Sebastian is a city most Members wouldn’t have experienced on their own,” says Bach. Members can take food crawls to sample the region’s famed pintxo bars or tour the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. A three-bedroom apartment, Casa de Carousel, has an unbeatable location across the street from Playa de la Concha and magazineworthy, contemporary interiors, while Casa del Rio is a modern, bright, two-story apartment located on the ground floor of a newly renovated building close to Playa Zurriola and Old Town with a rare, private outdoor space overlooking the canal waterfront. 17

EXCLUSIVE

ON THE ROAD WITH CARLTON MCCOY The host of CNN’s new docuseries NOMAD talks travel and the threads that connect us all. written by AMIEE WHITE BEAZLEY

PROFILE

THE LAST TIME I SAW CARLTON MCCOY HE WAS POURING ME A GLASS OF COLD, CRISP CHABLIS AT THE LITTLE NELL HOTEL IN ASPEN, COLORADO , where he earned his

Master Sommelier designation and was the Wine Director for eight years. The affable, charming, and always smiling McCoy had become a fixture in both Aspen and the global wine world, known for his extensive knowledge and willingness to share it. Now, as Managing Partner of Lawrence Wine Estates, a role in which he oversees five of Napa Valley’s most prized wineries and vineyards—Burgess, Ink Grade, Heitz Cellar, Brendel, and Stony Hill Vineyard—he is drinking wine with the likes of LeBron James and is about to make his national television debut as host of NOMAD with Carlton McCoy, a CNN Original Series. “It was actually in Aspen where the conversations began,” McCoy tells me during a recent call. As the story goes, Carlton was training for the New York City Marathon when a number he didn’t recognize appeared on his phone. Eager for a break, Carlton picked up, something he wouldn’t normally do. On the other end? Erik Osterholm, a producer at Zero Point Zero Productions Inc., best known for its work with Anthony Bourdain on The Mind of a Chef and Parts Unknown. Together with Osterholm, NOMAD was born. The show, which premiered in May of this year, is a six-part documentary series that chases what it means to be authentic. Its north star is celebrating global similarities and differences to illuminate the universal threads that connect us all. From McCoy’s hometown of Washington, D.C., to the rural outposts of Mississippi, food, culture, and the connection between people are center stage in such cities as Toronto and Paris, and countries like Ghana and South Korea. Having a travel show on CNN produced by Bourdain’s former team may conjure direct comparisons to the late cultural icon, but McCoy says NOMAD has unique DNA.

—— Opposite: CNN NOMAD host, Managing Partner of Lawrence Wine Estates, and Master Sommelier Carlton McCoy; Above: Toronto’s vibrant streets.

“Food and beverage play a role in NOMAD, but it doesn’t anchor the show,” he says. “Don’t get me wrong, I love to eat. I work out really hard just to have a dad bod, but because we were able to create this concept ourselves, I have an enormous amount of control. The thesis I had for the show was complex but pure and simple at the same time: highlight destinations that often come with clichés and identify what was different than what was on the surface. We have a diverse line up of destinations, with great people and stories to tell.” What’s more, NOMAD is firmly rooted in the perspective of McCoy, an African American man and wine expert who sees and experiences the world differently than Bourdain, or anyone else. “We know that the comparison will happen, and we are so honored to continue the Bourdain legacy, but NOMAD is so different in tone. No one can be another Tony Bourdain, and I’m not trying to be. NOMAD is very much my personality, with my music, and my perspective. It’s a different show because of the people who make it and the people we meet along the way.”

EXCLUSIVE

TRAVEL THAT CONNECTS New Members, The Reimann family fosters a global wish list. written by ERIN LENTZ

DURING A DENVER CHARITY EVENT, TOM AND KRISTIN REIMANN PURCHASED AN EXCLUSIVE RESORTS PACKAGE TO REAL DEL MAR. During that first Club intro in Mexico, they attended a seaside happy

hour with Club Members, and Kristin recalls a pivotal conversation. “This couple was sharing how their teen kids—in Mexico with high school friends—knew how special these trips were, and that’s when we decided, ‘This is what we want.’ We too want our kids to still be traveling with Mom and Dad when they’re in high school.” Fast forward to February of this year, and after officially joining the Club, Kristin, a busy pharmaceutical executive, jokes she already has 12 wish lists circulating with her Ambassador. “We joined something else initially, but it didn’t have the same feel to it. It felt like you were just booking hotels. And once we joined the Club, we knew wherever we went we would have the same level of service and could expect consistency in quality.” Along with her entrepreneur husband, Tom, and their two children Ryder (7) and Reese (9), the couple took their first official Club trip to Punta Ballena in Los Cabos. Based in Denver, Kristin explains that escaping the mountains for sun and sand is always an entice. “Our kids have

MEMBER VETTED

“WE HAVE SO MUCH TRUST IN THE CLUB—NO MATTER WHERE WE CHOOSE TO GO, I KNOW IT WILL BE FANTASTIC.” — KRISTIN REIMANN

—— Opposite: The Reimann family on their first spring break traveling with the Club. Above: Punta Ballena in Los Cabos, Mexico.

been on jet skis, boats, helicopter rides. We are adventurous when we’re out and about and so look forward to these trips.”

CLUB VALUE One of the best values of the Club? Time, Kristin says. “Because we are a busy family, it really allows us time to relax and decompress and enjoy one another. It’s so great to connect with the kids. Travel creates an environment where we aren’t worried about anything else. I also love exposing our kids to different cultures and experiences we wouldn’t get living in Colorado.”

DESTINATION GPS What’s more, research is made easy. No exhausting Google search on specific destinations, Kristin explains. Instead, pre-vacation vetting is already handled. “The Club has made traveling easier by narrowing down great destinations. The work has already been done, with the best places and houses. We have so much trust in the Club—no matter where we choose to go, I know it will be fantastic.”

TRAVEL LIFESTYLE VS. HOTELS “We’re now planning out trips a couple years in advance,” Kristin says. “With our kids in school, we know when breaks are, and we can book things out. We’ll incorporate parents and grandparents to now come with us on trips, and we know they are going to have their own space versus two tiny hotel rooms. We can have our time together, yet privacy as well.”

WHAT’S NEXT? After the release of the 2023 Once-in-a-Lifetime Journeys, “The cruise to Alaska caught our eye,” Kristin adds. “Boats and water are what we most want. We’d love to do a private yacht charter too. Our Ambassador is constantly checking in, asking what we need help with, and coordinating wish-list ideas. It’s so seamless and easy to get up and running. I have 12 wish lists already going, and we have trips planned through end of this year, and next! We’re also excited to attend Member events, as you feel like you really are part of a special Club.”

THE CALL OF CABO The Reimann’s To-Do List LOCAL IN THE KNOW: Our house concierge, Flor, was phenomenal. She went out of her way at every turn to make sure we felt taken care. She had all of our dining reservations made ahead of time, along with transportation to and from. She was available to us at all hours of the day and was so kind and thoughtful! FOODIE FIND: For dining in-residence, we loved ordering take out from the onproperty Italian restaurant Las Estrellas. We topped the evening with a beautiful Esperanza s’mores kit at our private firepit. Another favorite was dining at Cocina Del Mar. We had our dinner sitting on the cliff, waves crashing during our final family vacation night. TRIP HIGHLIGHT: We rented a private yacht for four hours one day. We went snorkeling, standup paddle boarding, and saw a ton of whales and sea turtles.

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BIGGER BUCKET LISTS Athens, Greece page 28

ART OF TRAVE L • W E LL PLAY E D • R A DA R • ON T HE WATE R

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Prada Marfa, the landmark art installation by Elmgreen and Dragset.

ART OF TRAVEL

THE MAGIC OF MARFA Expect high-end art and fabulous style in this remote Texas town. written by JACKIE CARADONIO

NO MATTER WHICH WAY YOU ARRIVE IN MARFA, YOU’LL START TO FEEL THE QUIRKY VIBES OF THIS DESERT ART OASIS LONG BEFORE YOU’VE REACHED THE CENTER OF TOWN. Come from El Paso—about three hours east, where you’ll find the nearest airport—and you’ll know you’re close when you pass Prada Marfa, which at first glance might seem an out-of-place luxury fashion boutique amid the wide-open Texas ranch lands, until you realize it’s Elmgreen and Dragset’s famous art installation. Arrive from the south, likely after hiking the majestic desertscapes of Big Bend National Park, and you’ll be welcomed by the giant concrete boxes of Donald Judd, the pioneering artist who put this dusty enclave on the map when he opened the esteemed Chinati Foundation in 1986. Approach from the west, and you’ll be greeted by signs for the mysterious Marfa Lights, the nightly phenomenon of unexplained orbs that flit and bob across the darkened mountain vistas. To be sure, this Old West town has been known for its New-Age cool for decades. Artists have been coming here since Judd’s days and Texas’ next big names in fashion and design are continually coming from—or flocking to—the town of less than 2,000 residents. On any visit, you’ll want to check out classic sites like the Chinati— which recently reopened its impressive John Chamberlain Building after a years-long renovation—and the Hotel Paisano, where Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean, and Rock Hudson stayed while filming the area’s most iconic film, 1956’s Giant. You’ll no doubt want to take a piece of that irresistible Marfa magic home too, so mark these spots offering the best (and funkiest) amid the coolest little town in Texas.

THE MARFA STORE Make your own Marfa starter kit at this everything-and-more boutique where you can browse the usual mementos—coffee mugs, tees, and caps—along with handmade bronze bolos (also known as Marfa’s oh-so de rigueur Texas ties), colorful serape blankets, and even prickly-pear mixers to spruce up your margaritas like a local. --themarfastore.com

RULE GALLERY One of many galleries in town, Rule resides within a whitewashed adobe casita and is designed like a private home to give visitors a sense of what it’s like to live with the art on exhibit. You may be tempted to take a seat in the living room—where vibrant paintings by Marfa local Martha Hughes hang—or cozy up with one of Sarah Bowling’s cement cushion sculptures in the bedroom. All the work is for sale, with a focus on Texas artists and the greater Southwest. --rulegallery.com

GARZA MARFA This showroom in the old West Texas Utilities Co. building is a mecca of modern Marfa aesthetic. Owners Jamey Garza and Constance Holt-Garza have filled it with a colorful smattering of covetable local art and design, from ceramics by Mimi y Roberto to paintings by Meghan Gerety. Garza’s own collection of vibrant Khadi textiles are the ultimate souvenirs for design aficionados of every type. --garzamarfa.com

COMMUNITIE If you want to fit in, you’ll need a Stetson, bandana … and some healing crystals? It’s all part and parcel to the Marfa experience, and you’ll find it at this boutique dotted with giant piles of amethyst and obsidian and neatly folded ‘chiefs designed by local artists like Saint No. There’s also a selection of slip dresses, cashmere sweaters, and stylish Western wear for the kids. --communitie.net

PRONGHORN Marfa is home to a handful of vintage shops of varying quality, but Pronghorn has the most diverse—and best-curated—selection of pretty much everything you could wish for: fringed leather jackets and cowboy boots, one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces from local and Native American designers, and handmade ceramics potted with succulents that could pass as works of art themselves. In the adjoining gallery, you’ll find a proper exhibition of rotating paintings, sculptures, and photography. --pronghornmarfa.com

HEY, I LIKE IT HERE Located within the (relatively) new Hotel St. George, this gallery and boutique is fast becoming a hub for Marfa’s cultural elite, thanks to its regular art openings and ever-growing showcase of local talents. Shop Sunshine Silversmith’s exquisite jewelry dotted with jelly opal, agate, and other stones, or pick out a limited-edition silk scarf from Emma Harling Studio. Slide open any of the drawers lining the gallery, and you’ll discover even more eye candy: photographs, paintings, and even small sculptures by more creators from the community. --marfasaintgeorge.com/hey-i-like-it-here THE WRONG STORE If this gallery is wrong, we don’t want to be right. One-part art space, one-part design shop, it’s brimming with colorful expressions of Marfa’s funky spirit. Find painted ceramics from Jocelyn Miller, resin popsicle sculptures filled with found objects by Lisa Chestnut, and a series of tongue-in-cheek wooden objets d’arte by Camp Bosworth (our favorite is the cartoonish Prada handbag—an homage to Prada Marfa, of course). --wrongmarfa.com

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“ART IS ONLY A GOOD INVESTMENT IF IT STIRS YOUR SOUL.” — OLIVIA DAVIS

ART OF TRAVEL

AVANT-GARDE Art of Choice founder Olivia Davis reveals her must-see global exhibitions.

—— Opposite: Olivia Davis in front of Sisters in Pink II by Emmanuel Taku. Above: Untitled by Anastasia Bay.

written by AMY ROBERTS

ART AND TRAVEL HAVE LONG ENJOYED A SYMBIOTIC RELATIONSHIP—FORMING AN INTERWOVEN TAPESTRY OF INSPIRATION AND INTENTION . They both can act as a catalyst for change, foster new ways of thinking, and encourage compassion and connection. Perhaps no one understands this better than Olivia Davis, the founder of Art of Choice, an art advisory firm that is equal parts matchmaker and talent discoverer. Davis launched a career—if not a movement—centered around the creativity and community that stems from collecting art, and usually includes those who accumulate passport stamps too. “My clients will often travel somewhere magical and later want a piece that evokes memories of that destination,” Davis says. It might seem like a daunting request, but she’s earned a reputation as a highly sought-after creative cupid of sorts, with a keen ability to find the exact right piece—created by the exact right artist—to enhance her client’s collection. This knack largely stems from her belief that great artists aren’t bound by geography. She frequently travels across continents to uncover the most exciting artists working today. While she admits she doesn’t have a crystal ball, Davis does have a reputation for discovering the next big “it person” in the creative world. Since founding her business in 2018, she has consistently added value to her clients’ collections by introducing them to creators on the cusp of fame, though she’s quick to point out her goal is to ensure each piece deeply resonates with the buyer before considering its potential to appreciate. “Art is only a good investment if it stirs your soul,” she confirms. “I don’t look for pieces that someone might only sort of like just because the artist’s work is likely to double in value. I find pieces that inspire, connect, and move the collector.” One way Davis can consistently identify emerging artists and find impeccably suited pieces for collectors is by frequenting some of the world’s premier art shows and exhibitions. Her handpicked list of upcoming must-see shows include:

Hauser & Wirth Gallery | Menorca, Spain Renowned contemporary American artist Rashid Johnson’s exhibition, Sodade, can be viewed through November 13. His work embraces a wide range of media to symbolize human longing, shared cultural identities, and personal narratives. Gagosian | New York City, NY Richard Prince: Hoods will be on display at Gagosian’s West Chelsea location through June 25 and will feature more than 30 of his personally selected works, many of which will be on loan from both public and private collections. Galerie Derouillon | Paris, France Anastasia Bay’s solo show The Awakening of the Cariatids pays homage to Bay’s well-known, often over-exaggerated style—mixing periods and genres without hierarchy and giving new life to classic scenes. White Cube | London, England In a yet-to-be-named show, the work of British artist Louise Giovanelli will be on display through September 11 at White Cube Bermondsey. Giovanelli’s practice explores the tension between representation and materiality, plus figuration and abstraction. Venice Biennial | Venice, Italy This major, city-wide exhibition is put on every two years and “The Milk of Dreams” is currently on view through November 27. Curated by Cecilia Alemani, the optimistic, “post-humanism” show fosters art with the capacity to celebrate new conditions of existence. For more information on Olivia Davis’ Art of Choice, visit artofchoice.co or follow @artofchoiceadvisory.

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HAUTE LIST Courtesy of Stellene Volandes, Editor in Chief of Town & Country and Editorial Director of Elle Décor. written by ANDREW SESSA

STELLENE VOLANDES KNOWS HOW TO HAVE A GOOD TIME, AND SHOWS OTHERS ONE, TOO. In her roles as editor in chief of Town & Country and editorial director of Elle Decor, she celebrates “attractive people doing attractive things in attractive places” (as society photographer Slim Aarons so famously stated). Under her guidance, the definition for what’s attractive—and where—as well as what’s chic and what’s #VeryTandC—has expanded well

RADAR

beyond the confines of the somewhat stuffy society norms the magazine was once known for. Always happy to mix high and low, Volandes has authored two books on exquisite jewels and jewelry, both historic and contemporary, but she also loves nothing more than morning coffee at Viand, her favorite diner in her native New York City. We recently caught up with the style maven, fresh off trips to Paris and Milan for the fashion shows, to find out where she’ll be spending time this summer, and what she’ll be doing—and wearing—while there.

—— Opposite, from top left: NYC’s Sant Ambroeus restaurant; Irene Neuwirth gold earrings; the Erechtheion in Athens, Greece; Long Island’s Frisky Oyster. From top: Stellene Volandes. Below: A chic VRAM ring.

ATHENS

LOS ANGELES

Why You Love It. The minute I land I feel completely at home but far, far away at the same time. Where to Go First. Ariston—one of the oldest bakeries in the city—for a frappe sketo iced coffee (no milk or sugar) and a cheese pie.

Why You Love It. Because even though as a New Yorker I’m not supposed to love it, I do, I really do.

What to Wear. Caftans and tote bags from Zeus & Dione; Lalaounis earrings; an Ileana Makri good luck charm; and beads from Elena Votsi. Insider Tip. Everyone needs a great guided tour of the Acropolis, whether it’s the first time you visit or the fifteenth. Michael Patmanidis, a trained archaeologist, is the answer. After working up an appetite exploring the Parthenon, you’ll need drinks on the roof of the Hotel Grande Bretagne and then dinner at Papadakis. Order the spicy shrimp.

LONG ISLAND’S NORTH FORK Why You Love It. Because my family has spent summers here forever—and even as it has changed, it’s still the same relaxed retreat it’s always been. Where to Go First. Aldo’s for coffee and the Frisky Oyster for dinner (be sure to make a reservation). Country salad and steak frites await. What to Wear. A beach cover up and a straw bag from Lido—my favorite store in Greenport. And my favorite shell necklace from Jenna Blake—like Jeff Spicoli’s in Fast Times at Ridgemont High! But not quite the same.

Where to Go First. Check in to the Hotel Bel-Air and order a barbecue salmon salad. What to Wear. An Attersee tunic dress and an Elder Statesman sweater in case it gets cold. When in L.A., wear L.A. jewelry: a Lisa Eisner turquoise pendant, Irene Neuwirth gold earrings, and a VRAM ring. Insider Tip. Go to Fanny’s at the new Academy Museum for lunch and look for illustrator and art star Konstantin Kakanias. Even if you don’t have a sighting, you can stare at the murals he created on the walls.

NEW YORK CITY Why You Love It. Do I even have to say? Where to Go First. Sant Ambroeus for an iced americano and prosciutto and Swiss cheese sandwich. What to Wear. By day, a Gucci Diana tote. By night, an Aerin leopard print clutch. Elsa Peretti jade anytime. Insider Tip. You want to put your best face forward in this city. For that, go to Aida Bicaj Skin Care on East 67th. Or now in Tribeca, too!

Insider Tip. Aldo—of Aldo’s—is a Greenport legend. If you don’t get his coffee and his biscotti, no one will believe you were ever on the North Fork at all.

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BEAUTY & GRIT

As the wellness industry explodes, these two mavericks come from highly different backgrounds, yet both are seriously elevating their game. written by DREW LIMSKY

ONE CAME FROM HOLLYWOOD ROYALTY AND INTEGRATED WELLNESS INTO HER LIFE AND WORK. THE OTHER OVERCAME OBESITY THROUGH A MILITARY CAREER and enduring the unimaginable rigors of ultramarathons. These two standouts will keep you inspired to sweat and glow while on the road.

WELL PLAYED

KATE HUDSON Actor Kate Hudson, 42, was barely over 30 when she began to infuse her life and public profile with wellness. The shift came in 2013, when she co-founded the fitness brand and membership program Fabletics; her efforts continued with her 2016 book, Pretty Happy: Healthy Ways to Love Your Body. Of course, the archetype for the movie star-fitness guru was Jane Fonda, who launched a cottage industry of exercise videos in the early ‘80s, pioneering an industry while her film career was thriving. Like Fonda, Hudson, the daughter of Oscar-winning actor Goldie Hawn, has long been wise to the vagaries of show business, and decided early on not to put her eggs in one basket—and to seek a more balanced personal and profession life. What Fonda was to the VHS video, Hudson is to social media. She enjoys an Instagram following of 14.8 million—a staggering following cultivated by inviting viewers into her workout routines. In one post, she shows off her impressive dancing prowess (in bare feet and sans makeup) to the strains of “All Through the Night.” In another, she’s in the kitchen, concocting a lemon and ginger smoothie turbocharged with products from her travel-ready nutritional powder and supplement line, INBLOOM. If the videos lack the slickness of Hudson’s Hollywood hits Fool’s Gold and Bride Wars, that’s the point. Hudson has mastered the form—daily unpretentious glamour and relatability—and her wellness entrepreneurship might lead to a longer shelf-life, prove more lucrative, and provide the key to a healthier life than movie stardom. -- tobeinbloom.com

—— Opposite: Kate Hudson with an INBLOOM smoothie. Above: Navy Seal and ultra athlete David Goggins.

for a simple outdoor run. No surprise there: Goggins is an ultramarathoner who, in 2008, was named a “Hero of Running” by Runner’s World. The fitness icon was once obese, but that was during the “before times”—before his 20-year military career (he served in Iraq and Afghanistan, first in the Air Force, then as a Navy SEAL). Goggins’ journey to peak physical achievement is a story of overcoming adversity—from the abuse he suffered as a child, detailed in his memoir Can’t Hurt Me: Master Your Mind and Defy the Odds (2018), to slights he still receives from his family, even now, about his obsession for running. “Those that criticize others—they’ve really got something going on with themselves,” he notes via a post, a reminder that peak fitness is as much about discipline of mind as it is discipline of body. --davidgoggins.com

DAVID GOGGINS Forty-seven-year-old David Goggins is a different kind of fitness role model, rougher-edged, to say the least. His 4.8 million Instagram followers are well-versed in his aggressive, often expletive-laden lessons, delivered in his signature military-man cadence while he’s working out. In a typical post, the sweat collects during a stationary bike session; the triceps strain and striate in the middle of a set of cable pulldowns, performed shirtless. Travelers know that a cable pulldown machine can be found in most luxury hotel gyms, but if equipment isn’t available, Goggins shows his enthusiasm

WELLNESS FOR WOMEN

Cal-a-Vie Spa’s female inspired event series. AS WOMEN ARE LEADING INCREASINGLY BUSY LIVES—whether a stay-at-home Mom or an on-the-go CEO, taking a time out can be just as critical as go time. Nestled along gorgeous land near San Diego, the European inspired Cal-a-Vie spa and retreat hosts specific Women’s Weeks throughout the year. Expect to sweat, decompress, enjoy spa treatments, plus find inspiration among a group of like-minded women.

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ON THE W ATER

SEAS THE DAY Private Yacht Experiences and Oncein-a-Lifetime Journeys raise the bar for aqua adventure. written by AMY ROBERTS

FOR YEARS, TRAVELING BY PRIVATE JET WAS THE ULTIMATE STATUS SYMBOL— THE PINNACLE OF EFFICIENT LUXURY. And while flying private is hardly available to all, traveling by yacht is quickly becoming the new mark of life-affirming adventure. Perhaps that’s because yachts are designed to savor time rather than save it. As such, the Club’s bespoke yachting experiences don’t just raise the bar for unrivaled vacations—they set a new one.

—— Opposite: A birds-eye view of Mallorca’s Sa Calobra beach. Above: experiencing Bali and Komodo Island.

PRIVATE YACHT CHARTERS Typically, when planning a trip with friends or family, the destination is determined far in advance and there’s not much wiggle room for impromptu whims. But with a private yacht charter, spontaneity and curiosity are free to reign. “Destinations, activities, and excursions are completely customizable and catered to your needs and interests,” notes Gina Bach, Exclusive Resorts Vice President, Experience Collection. “It’s truly the most carefree way to island hop in the Caribbean.” Exclusive Resorts’ private yacht charters cruise the transparent aqua waters surrounding the Exumas—a pristine collection of idyllic islands that sit on the eastern edge of the Bahamas—along with several U.S. and British Virgin Islands. Yachts available for charter include the 108-foot Broward yacht Double Down, complete with four sumptuous cabins accommodating up to eight guests. All In is a one-of-a kind, 145-foot yacht offering three levels of indoor and outdoor living space and five staterooms for up to 10 guests. And Winning Hand, a 120-foot Broward yacht, boasts accommodations for up to eight passengers. Each charter includes a highly trained and exceptionally attentive crew comprised of a private chef, friendly stewards, and your skillful captain.

ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME JOURNEYS For those whose maritime imagination is as deep as the ocean’s floor, Exclusive Resorts offers two curated yachting vacations certain to live up to their designation as a Once-in-a-Lifetime Journey.

Bali and Komodo Island. Swim alongside whale sharks, dive with manta rays, and observe prehistoric Komodo dragons as they roam about the UNESCO World Heritage-designated Komodo National Park. The 11-day excursion begins and ends at the Four Seasons in Bali. Between stays, you’ll enjoy seven nights onboard the five-deck, 15-suite Aqua Blu explorer yacht, operated by Aqua Expeditions. Scuba diving is included, allowing for unlimited marine life encounters with each underwater safari. Gal á pagos Islands. Usher in 2024 with the bluefooted boobies, giant tortoises, and playful sea lions who call the Gal á pagos Islands home. This 10-day expedition bookends 2023 and the start of 2024 and is purposefully designed to enhance your connection to nature—glass-bottom boats, underwater cameras, a hydrophone, video microscope, snorkeling gear, and wetsuits are all provided. Onboard National Geographic II, photographers and naturalists lead photo classes, and when offshore, guests experience engaging nature walks and take kayaking and snorkel tours throughout the archipelago’s 19 islands.

BARTON & GRAY MARINERS Need to test out your sea legs before committing to several days on the water? An Exclusive Resorts membership provides access to a fleet of captained Hinckley Yachts, docked at 28 locations along the East Coast and Great Lakes. Members can enjoy a four-hour complimentary cruise.

Fine wine and hospitality experiences designed to share our worldly perspective.

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TASTEFULLY VETTED

Fall Bounty TOP TA BLE S • C HE E R S! • W E LL SE RV E D 35

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A TASTE OF ST. BARTHS Your cheat sheet to a remote island with BIG flavor. written by ERIN LENTZ

HOW YOU ARRIVE AND DEPART ST. BARTHS IS AS MUCH A CONVERSATION STARTER AS WHERE YOU’LL DINE. The single airstrip into this Caribbean gem is as famous as the island’s rosé-all-day mantra. Discerning travelers know the best places to get to are often the hardest, yet when discovering fabulous St. Barths, your effort will be deliciously rewarded at these top tables.

SAND BAR AT EDEN ROCK-ST. BARTHS Island shopping will kick up an appetite (Eden Rock’s Eden Being is a global edit of hip clothes and accessories by style siren and hotel co-owner Jane Matthews), and whether enjoying lunch or dinner, dining at Eden Rock’s Sand Bar should top your list. Order the crispy salmon truffle pizza or the catch of the day while swaying to the sound of the sea or local DJs.

TAMARIN After a sunset walk, your evening revs up with dinner at Tamarin. Dine al fresco among the lush tropical garden and a century-old tamarin tree while savoring a bottle of vino from one of the island’s most applauded wine cellars. Lastly, if the dance floor is calling, hit the infamous Le Ti (known for a nightly cabaret show and pirate-inspired costume room) for music and revelry.

BONITO A chic hillside restaurant with indelible sunset views and decadent flavors, Bonito was originally built as a private beach home and is now helmed by Chef Owner Laurent Cantineaux. The outpost is an island mainstay, thanks to such dishes as lobster ceviche and tamarind and honey glazed grouper. Start your eve with the tableside Smoked Manhattan—as sultry and sophisticated as St. Barths itself.

LE TOINY ST. BARTH This hip hotel and it’s tucked away Beach Club is an island must. During a toes-in-the-sand lunch, order the burrata topped with shaved truffle and the fillet of red snapper. Afterward, your Moke rental awaits. As you zip up and down the coastline, take in the views of skilled surfers riding remote swells.

GYPSEA BEACH Navigate the tickle of the ocean as you walk five minutes from the Eden Rock to dine at GypSea Beach. On the menu? French rosé (St. Barth’s “pink water” as the server jokes) and grilled mahi mahi served with fresh veggies.

NIKKI BEACH Talk of St. Barths, and there’s talk of the famous Nikki Beach. This Saint-Jean hot spot defines barefoot luxury. Expect a see-and-be-seen crowd, with plenty of table dancing (especially during the weekly “Amazing Sundays” parties) à la buzzworthy international DJs. What to order? The triple threat: Caviar, crab, and champagne.

STAY ST. BARTHS Your chic headquarters? Three gorgeous private residences. The Club’s four- and five-bedroom luxury villas maintain an air of hillside seclusion, yet remain in close proximity to beaching, shopping, dining, and nightlife. Lounge poolside and toast the sunset with an ocean view (from nearly every window) before exploring all the seeand-be-seen locales the island offers. Expect come-hither residences, finished with individual décor and sea-inspired artwork, while the charming capital of Gustavia—with plenty of locally sourced boutiques and upscale outposts—is just a short drive away.

TO P TABLES

—— Clockwise from top left: A Chili Chili Bang Bang cocktail from Eden Rock - St. Barths; happy hour at Tamarin; Eden Rock - St. Barths’ Rémy Bar and Salon; rosé all day at Nikki Beach.

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PERFECT PAIRING Dedication and precision have made Cristie Kerr a star on the golf course while also helping her earn near instant acclaim in the wine world. written by JEN MURPHY

MOST PEOPLE ARE LUCKY TO FIND ONE GREAT PASSION IN LIFE. At 44, Cristie Kerr has already discovered two. The first, golf, led her to the second, wine. The Florida native was on the green by age seven and played her first junior competition at 12. When she turned pro at 18, she was immediately one to watch. But even her laser focus couldn’t ignore the beauty and allure of California wine country. When the Samsung world championship of women’s golf took her to Napa Valley, she had just come of drinking age. Most young adult’s first introduction to wine is Boone’s Farm, yet Kerr found herself spending her down days at some of the Valley’s top tasting rooms. She stayed in Yountville near the French Laundry and would drive an hour each way to

CHEERS!

CELLAR STARS These wines are singlevineyard expressions of Kerr Cellars’ finest and most exclusive Napa Valley and Sonoma County vineyards. Members can use the code: EXCLUSIVERESORTS and receive a 10-percent discount on orders. shop.kerrcellars.com

“I’M NOT GOING TO LET SOMETHING HARD BEAT ME, WHICH IS PROBABLY WHY I DO WELL IN BOTH WORLDS.” — CRISTIE KERR —— Opposite: In the vineyard with pro golfer and Kerr Cellars founder Cristie Kerr. Top: Kerr Cellars wines are produced in collaboration with winemaker Helen Keplinger.

get to the tournament in Vallejo. “I remember it was harvest and the valley was so alive, and the smell was just electric,” she recalls. Kerr used any downtime between play to go wine tasting with friends. “From then on, whenever I played a tournament near a wine region I had to seek out and learn more about the production side,” she says. “I was fascinated by how different soils grew different grapes and how different wines paired with food. It was instantly a second love for me.” Kerr went on to become one of the most successful players in LPGA Tour history, nabbing many accolades and becoming the first American to hold the number-one rank since the Women’s World Golf Rankings were introduced in 2006. And she’s still not finished making her mark. The most successful athletes find balance, and Kerr carved out time to start a family and a lauded wine business. In 2006, she partnered with Pride Mountain Vineyards to create Curvature, a wine label whose proceeds go to support breast cancer research. A lot of golfers double as winemaking hobbyists (Greg Norman, Jack Nicklaus) but Kerr doesn’t just dabble in something. She went all-in, earned her level-one sommelier certification, and in 2013 started a second label, Kerr Cellars, with

star winemaker Helen Keplinger. Kerr Cellars represents the best of Burgundy and Bordeaux wines, employing Napa and Sonoma grape varietals. Just three years after launching Kerr Cellars, Wine Spectator flagged them as a winery to watch. Both brands are hyper-focused on quality and thus have boutique-level production quantities. Kerr notes there are a lot of parallels between the wine and golf worlds. Those at the top of their game require attention to detail, gut instinct, pure drive, and determination. During Covid, Kerr took on a lot of the daily, handson operations at the winery. “It was really challenging,” she says. “But my personality likes really challenging. I’m not going to let something hard beat me, which is probably why I do well in both worlds. When you succeed at something challenging the reward is even more satisfying.” As ambitious as Kerr is, she also realizes she can’t do it all with excellence and without compromise. After trying to be a pro golfer and run the winery last year, she’s relinquished some of her wine duties back to her talented team. She is committed to making 2022 her comeback year in golf, while wine remains her long game. -- kerrcellars.com

2018 BECKSTOFFER VINEYARD GEORGES III CABERNET SAUVIGNON Grapes are sourced from Beckstoffer’s legendary Georges III vineyard in the Rutherford AVA, and the wine is matured in French oak barrels, giving it a luxurious complexity while also honoring the vineyard’s French founder. 2018 MANZANITA VINEYARD PINOT NOIR This wine was made and matured in the finest French oak barrels from the Vosges forest, mixing old and new barrels to get the perfect balance of fresh vibrant fruit and silky layered complexity. 2019 RUED VINEYARD CHARDONNAY Rued Vineyard lies just five miles from the ocean in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley. The “sea spray” minerality adds an intriguing tension to the tactile palate. Kerr Cellars produces small quantities of high-caliber wines with extremely limited access. The company has recently opened their cellar to Exclusive Resorts Members. If interested in procuring wines, please email nicole@kerrcellars.com for a curated selection from the Members-only collection.

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CHEERS, NANTUCKET! A toast to the city’s past and present cocktail scene. written by MARK ELLWOOD

THE BEST THING ABOUT NANTUCKET’S BAR SCENE, ACCORDING TO MEG NOLAN VAN REESEMA, IS ITS IDEAL COMBINATION OF UPSCALE VENUES AND DOWNHOME DRINKING DENS. “Drinking has always been core to Nantucket social life—it’s New England, after all,” laughs the Tradewinds magazine editor and lifelong Nantucket summer resident, “There are bars around the strip that have been there forever and draw a saltier crowd, but now there are also see-and-be seen places, or historic old watering holes that have been redone.” Here are her curated go-tos, where anyone can enjoy an onisland drink (or two).

CLUB CAR 1 | Main Street New owners revamped one of the island’s signature drinking dens, located at the base of Main Street. When they took the helm five years ago, they upgraded the interior. The result? It’s airier, with a menu transformed from New England staples to modern American small plates. The vibe, though, remains homey as ever, with piano singalongs and a combo local-visitor crowd; the car itself used to run on the rail line between the village and ‘Sconset, where drinks were served and provided inspiration for this festive joint. --theclubcar.com

THE ROSE & CROWN | 23 South Water Street “The floor is sticky with beer, and you have to have done karaoke there at least once,” says Nolan van Reesema of this dive bar, a onetime livery stable dating back to the 1800s (it was a gas station and art studio before morphing into a bar-restaurant). It sits right in the heart of old town, and is considered one of the better late-night spots (open until 1 a.m.) When last call happens in town, most head to mid-island and the Chicken Box, another beloved dive bar. --theroseandcrown.com

W ELL SERVED

—— From left: A handcrafted cocktail from Club Car; Cru is known for Nantucket drink culture and a stellar cellar; Gallery Beach’s upscale sundowner; Club Car’s unique train-car exterior.

THE BAR AT GALLEY BEACH | 54 Jefferson Avenue If you want an excuse to dress up for an onisland cocktail, there’s nowhere better than this spot, which Nolan van Reesema calls “the most Hamptons-esque scene Nantucket has ever had.” She credits it with importing the idea of the upscale sundowner here. In part, that’s attributed to its beach-side locale, where the torch-lit lounge channels a club on the Mediterranean coast. It’s also thanks to the efforts of longtime owners, the Silva family; a dress code is enforced come late afternoon, so the vibe remains distinct from bikini-clad after-beach drinks. --galleybeach.net

CRU | 1 Straight Wharf An oyster and wine bar, Cru is one of Nolan van Reesema’s call outs, due to its impressive cellar list. “They go on crazy trips

to get incredible bottles, and sell bananas numbers of great wines,” she raves. The decade-old upscale bar-restaurant sits right at the end of the wharf, so boat traffic whizzes all around those sitting in its open-sided space, cooled by the breezy salty air. Slurp on fresh-shucked oysters prepped by the master opener, Rocco. --crunantucket.com

THE GAZEBO | 4 Harbor Square You can tell the signature drink of this dockside bar by the noise of the blenders: frozen mudslides, that dangerous combo of dessert and drink that packs a sneaky punch. Sit here on a warm evening to gaze out over the busy harbor, and graze on lobster rolls and chowder. Last year, the bar raised eyebrows by hiking the age at which patrons could buy alcohol from 21 to 25, aiming to squeeze out frat boy-ish rowdiness and make families especially welcome. --nantuckettavern.com

STAY Exclusive Resorts offers three quintessentially Nantucket residences centrally located in Town (and for the summer season only). Top restaurants and shops are easily accessible without a car as the 50-mile-wide island has an extensive bike trail system. BEDROOMS: 5-6 BATHS: 5-6 ACCOMMODATES: 10-12

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FEATURES Fall Bounty

WELL SUITED Scotland sophisticates, Pittormie Castle & the legendary Old Course. page 60

STEAMBOAT SPRINGS • JACKSON HOLE • SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 43

WRITTEN BY JEN MURPHY

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEFANIE MICHEJDA

A culinary revival is underway in the Caribbean’s best kept secret.

UNSPOILED & FULL OF SURPRISES

NEVIS

“Life is oh so sweet on Nevis,”

croons my taxi driver, Vernal, as he makes an unexpected detour off the side of the road. “It’s gonna be a good sunset, so let’s pause and appreciate,” he says with a wink and broad smile. My dinner reservation at Montpelier Plantation is at 6:30, but I embrace the island mantra, “rush slowly,” and agree to join Vernal on a bluff above Pinney’s Beach to watch a fiery orange sun disappear into the sea. Sweet is the perfect adjective to describe Nevis, an island whose history and early fortune were rooted in sugar and whose plantation-style homes are painted in macaroon pastels with icing-sugar trim. The delicate scent of ylang-ylang perfumes the warm, tropical air and trees hang heavy with ripe mangoes and papaya, or what Vernal calls, nature’s candy. Troupes of green vervet monkeys play in the treetops and donkeys once used to haul mounds of sugarcane now roam wild. But it’s the people who are sweetest of all, exuding a genuine warmth and happiness. The oldest British colony in the Caribbean, Nevis spans just 36 square miles and feels slow and sleepy even by Caribbean standards. Neighboring big sister, St. Kitt’s, for example, has 53,000 residents, an international airport, cruise terminals, and massive chain resorts. Nevis, home to barely 11,000 people,

has no cruise traffic and the Four Seasons is its only brand-name hotel. And because it requires a bit of effort to reach (if not arriving via private plane you fly to St. Kitts and transfer by ferry), the island maintains a hushed vibe that attracts bold-face names (Princess Diana holidayed here and it’s now Prince Harry’s go-to escape) looking to embrace discreet barefoot luxury.

EXPATS & ISLAND FLAVORS “People here have traveled the world, but Nevis is the place that captures their heart and imagination,” quips Gillian Smith, the English-born owner of Bananas, an island institution tucked above the Historic Hamilton Estate. Her shop just below the restaurant is proof of her wanderlust, stocked with Portuguese linens, Tahitian pearls, and other treasures from her travels. At the bar, I eavesdrop on expats gossiping as I savor bites of a hearty, British-influenced fish pie topped with parmesan and creamy whipped potatoes. Smith arrived in the late 1990s along with a crop of other expats who reimagined old plantations into intimate hotels and restaurants. Now, a second renaissance is afoot. Sometimes it takes an outsider to see a place with fresh eyes. As such, a new crop of expats from England, Colombia, Canada, and beyond are re-invigorating

the island with fresh flavors. Long reliant on imports, the pandemic was a wakeup call for the island to start growing more of its own food. This hasn’t been lost on Jack Boast. The talented new chef at Paradise Beach Nevis cut his teeth at London’s Michelin-decorated Galvin La Chapelle but much prefers island life. When he’s not in the kitchen of the 13-room, beachfront hotel, he’s spearfishing, scouting rum shacks, or connecting with the island’s best farmers and fisherman. The ebullient chef allows me to join him on a sourcing trip. Our first stop is the farmer’s market in the island’s main town, Charlestown, a short walk from the birthplace of Alexander Hamilton, now the Museum of Nevis History. As he examines exotic-sounding produce— bitter gourd, soursop, and a starchy root called tannia—he tells me he’s on a mission to challenge the palates of visitors beyond the typical English inspired Caribbean fare. Yes, he offers a Caesar salad and burger at lunch to satisfy fussy Americans, but dinner is curated down to two starters, two mains, and one dessert with offerings that might include jerk BBQ pig tail, crispy fried okra, and a gussied-up riff on local roadside staple, Nevisian goat water, that he transforms into a deliciously rich, gravy-like stew.

PARADISE IN A GLASS JAMES’ FAVORITE: THE RUM PUNCH Named after the owner of Paradise Nevis Beach, James Cabourne, this unique riff on the island’s ubiquitous rum punch is the special recipe of the hotel’s mixologist Kendie Williams.

Ingredients 2 oz Mokojumbie Gold Rum 1 oz Shipwrecks Vanilla Rum 1 oz Tamarind Purée 1 oz Guava Purée ½ oz Lime Juice Angostura Bitters Nutmeg

Preparation Combine ingredients in a shaker and add ice. Shake vigorously. Pour in a rocks glass, add Angostura Bitters, and grate nutmeg on top. Garnish with lime. Cheers!

RESIDENT PHOTOS BY: JACKIE CARADONIO

Previous page: An aerial view of Club residences at Paradise Beach Nevis. Above, clockwise from top left: Montpelier Plantation; a green vervet monkey peek-a-boo; Club villas feature private pools; kitchens primed for entertaining; Nevisian bouillabaisse at Paradise Beach Nevis.

RESIDENT PHOTO BY: JACKIE CARADONIO

Previous page: Club Residences are just steps from toes-inthe-sand afternoons. Above, clockwise from top left: Drift beach bar will swap your straw hat for a complimentary rum punch; Llewellyn “Sunshine” Caines and his Killer Bee cocktail; Cafe des Artes restaurant; Club villa interiors; the old stone sugar mill at Golden Rock is hugged by giant philodendron .

STAY BAREFOOT LUXURY SUGAR MILLS & NEVIS PEAK

KILLER BEES & LOCAL LIVING

Luckily there are multiple ways to work up an appetite on the island—from standup paddle boarding and kayaking on the turquoise water fronting Paradise Beach to horseback riding and summitting 3,232-foot Nevis Peak, the highest point on the island. The latter is more jungle climb than hike, and not for the unfit, requiring just as much upper body strength to haul yourself up near vertical ropes. But the island views are worth the effort. Nevis is also home to one of the only expanding rainforests on earth, and across the island expats have rescued historic plantations from the everencroaching jungle. One of the most storied, Montpelier Plantation, was reinvented as an elegant boutique hotel that hosts five-course meals in a candlelit, 300-year-old sugar mill. More recently, New York artists Helen and Brice Marden transformed old stone ruins at the foot of Nevis Peak into an 11-room, 40-acre retreat called Golden Rock. Shrouded in giant philodendron, fragrant jasmine, and 50 species of palms, the hotel doubles as a gallery while its terrific restaurant serves a sumptuous toasted coconuttopped lobster salad. Just down the road, the Hermitage Inn, one of the oldest wooden homes in all of the Caribbean, has for decades thrown a weekly pig roast attended by both locals and visitors.The beloved buffet’s staple West Indies recipes, like rabbit pie, tannia fritters and johnny cakes, pay homage to the island’s grandmothers. New Chef Alejandro Cadavid hails from Colombia and has worked at some of South America’s top restaurants. He won’t mess with tradition but has refined the dishes just a touch. He’s also created a new tradition—every Friday Cadavid fires up the stone oven with acacia wood for pizza night and showcases island ingredients on tasty thin crust pies.

For years, the island’s culinary nexus was inland, and its shores were best suited to laidback, low-frills beach shacks like, Sunshines, a legendary hangout named after its always smiling owner Llewellyn “Sunshine” Caines and notorious for its Killer Bee rum punch. But tides are turning. I can see Chef Boast fishing along the shores of Paradise Beach as I dingy in from a morning of sailing and snorkeling. Talk about fresh catch — he’s angling for snapper to turn into fresh sashimi for lunch. Chef Boast is the expert when it comes to rum shacks around the island, but Paradise Beach Nevis’ award-winning mixologist, Kendie Williams, is the resident rum connoisseur. Over lunch, she treats me to a rum tasting. We sample Clifton Estate, a Nevis-made spiced rum that she aptly describes as “Christmas in a glass” against Diplomático, a Venezuelan rum as refined as a sherry, but with a touch of sweetness. Later that evening, I swap my straw hat for a free rum punch at Drift. Set on the northern tip of the island, just 10 minutes from Paradise, this darling new beach bar was recently opened by Canadian artist Vikki Fuller and her husband, Mark. Vikki’s paintings of the island’s donkeys and monkeys grace the whitewashed walls. And now, so does my hat. Vikki came up with the clever hat-for-a-drink exchange, one of many whimsical features of the restaurant. My Nevisian waitress, Renita, insists I try the West Indies curry studded with just caught mahi. Mark and Vikki join me at my table and tell me about their latest project, a sister restaurant Luna, located just up the road and helmed by Michelintrained Indian chef, Kamal D’Costa. Mark cuts himself off to point out a hawksbill turtle bobbing nearby in the water, and we all pause to admire the ombre blues of the sea. “Every island in the Caribbean is known for something—best beaches, best diving, best beach bars,” muses Mark. “People forget Nevis because we don’t stand out for just one thing. The secret is that this island has it all.

PARADISE BEACH NEVIS You’ll feel like a five-star Caribbean castaway when you check in to one of the 13 tropical, beachfront accommodations at Paradise Beach Nevis. British designer Naomi Clever is responsible for the island-chic interiors. The Club’s three, fourbedroom villas are perfect for families. Expansive private decks shaded by palms and bougainvillea are the ultimate alfresco hangout space, with pebble-lined pools, gas barbecues, and cabanas for outdoor dining. Inside, spacious rooms feature locally crafted four-poster beds, marble bathrooms, and a top-grade kitchen where Chef Jack Boast can prepare in-villa dinners. Designed with couples in mind, two Balinese-inspired beach houses feel like luxe treehouses. In lieu of a do-notdisturb sign, guests can pull up the stairs like a trap door when they crave privacy. Driftwood-inspired walls and blonde wood four-poster beds are accented by colorful shell-lined mirrors and jewel-toned cushions. Ocean-facing decks offer prime sunset views and plunge pools are meant for stargazing. Under each beach house is an outdoor shower, a palapa area for lounging or dining, and a sculptural copper swing seat designed by acclaimed artist Stephen Myburgh.

Joie de Vivre IF THERE’S A DESTINATION THAT CAN SERVE UP A MOOD BOOST ON A SILVER PLATTER, IT’S PARIS. written by AMY TARA KOCH

BONJOUR, SUMMER IN PARIS! With a change in season, and after two difficult years, travelers to this European favorite will find a reinvigorated change in scene: Storied shops and restaurants survived for the most part, and new spots managed to open, some with international fanfare. Museum and historic sites have resumed operations with compelling programming. Bars, from hipster holesin-the-wall to verdant roof decks, have proliferated throughout the city. Your biggest challenge? Trying to cram everything into one trip.

PHOTO BY: JACKIE CARADONIO

FOOD & DRINK

Cheval Blanc, the new LVMH-owned, Peter Marino-designed, Seine-facing hotel deserves its recent accolades. Expect straw marquetry walls and stone flooring inspired by Parquet de Versailles, while hundreds of modern art works (note the experiential in-elevator installation by lighting designer Thierry Dreyfus) infuse the 1928 Art Deco building with contemporary cool. Four restaurants—all with staggering views of Notre Dame and The Eiffel Tower— are the property’s calling card. There’s Limbar cafe, a patisserie that turns into a cocktail bar at night; Plenitude, a fine dining concept where acclaimed Chef Arnaud Donckele makes sauces, creams, broths, and veloutés (the stars of each course); a French bistro, Le Tout-Paris and on the rooftop, an outpost of Milan’s popular eatery Langosteria. It may not be new, but 25-seat Yam’Tcha remains a tough booking to snag, a credit to Chef Adeline Grattard, one of the few Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris run by a woman. Grattard’s genius for marrying Chinese and French flavors is spotlighted in dishes like mussel and smoked tofu salad, watercress soup studded with razor clam and foie gras, and bao buns filled with Stilton cheese and Morello cherry. If you can’t nab a reservation, the bao buns are available at a tearoom that Grattard and her husband Chi Wah Chan operate nearby. For those who pine for old-fashioned bistro fare with classic, convivial milieu, the perennially packed L’Ami Jean remains a best bet. Here, the affably histrionic Stéphane Jego turns out superb roast lamb with smoked oregano, garlicky braised veal cheeks, and insanely fluffy rice pudding. The Hemingway Bar has always drawn cocktail enthusiasts to the Ritz

Paris. The new Belle-Epoque style Bar des Astres is a fine reason to stay for another round. Zodiac-themed potions a la Equilibriste (vodka, pear eau-de-vie, elderflower, green grape, and pine) and Reveur (absinthe, sage, lemon, white almond syrup, verbena) are paired with indulgent nibbles such as truffle croque monsieur stuffed with comté cheese and white ham. Paris’ liveliest quartier is Oberkampf in the 11th arrondissement, where cool-kid eateries and bars are all about dynamic flavor in groovy settings. Chock-full of coffee shops, boutiques, and nightlife spots, this somewhat gritty neighborhood exudes locals-live-here buzz whatever hour of the day. Essential eating: Le Chateaubriand, Le Saint Sebastian, Le Rigmorole, Le Servan, Septime, and Clamato. For apéro hour try Le Rouge Limé and Le Plain Soleil. After-dinner boites are bountiful. Pop into Dirty Lemon for whimsical, vegetalleaning cocktails or the Brutalist-veering rooftop of Le Perchoir.

CULTURE

The talk of the town is Bourse de Commerce, an 18 th-century grain exchange recast as a shrine for billionaire François Pinault’s contemporary art collection. The Tadao Ando-designed edifice is as exciting as the art; a nine-meter-high concrete rotunda traces the curves of the original structure, creating a striking contrast

Previous Page: Club residences in Paris. Clockwise from top left: Musée d’Orsay is featuring a Gaudi retrospective; the 25-seat Yam’Tcha restaurant, Chef Adeline Grattard; the Louis Vuitton Foundation.

WHERE YOU’LL STAY between old and new, minimalism and opulence. Don’t miss the Charles Ray sculpture exhibition or the gastronomic rooftop restaurant by Michel Bras. After your visit, pop across the street to the new rooftop deck of Madame

Palais de Tokyo is Europe’s largest

Rêve Hotel for a cocktail and sweeping

center for contemporary creation

cityscape views.

and the place for outré art in all of

Another nouvelle feather in Paris’

its incarnations. What’s on: a group

cultural cap is Hôtel de la Marine, the

exhibition called Reclaim The Earth,

recently restored 18 th-century palace on

focusing upon indigenous cultures

the Place de la Concorde (closed to the

torn apart by politics; Mimosa Echard’s

public for the past 250 years) featuring

Sporal installation, part video game, part

sumptuous furnishings and original

film projected upon fabric to produce

decorative details. On the museum front,

psychedelic effects; A Roof For Silence,

there is a Gaudí retrospective at Musée

a structure representing the void of

d’Orsay including pieces of furniture and

depth and time created by architect Hala

sketches/ models of fantastical parks

Warde containing works by painter and

and churches (Sagrada Familia, the Güel

poet Etel Adnan and sounds designed by

park and palace, the Casa Milà) created

Soundwalk Collective.

by the Art Nouveau master. A retrospective of Hungarian artist Simon Hantaï’s kaleidoscopic abstract works and pliage (in which a canvas is

SHOPPING

Seasoned shoppers will, of course, have

crumpled, and painted over to reveal

Le Bon Marché and La Samaritaine

a matrix of saturated color with strips

on their hit lists. What they may not

of unprimed ground) will be shown at

know about is the City of Light’s lively

the Louis Vuitton Foundation. Hantaï’s

dépôt-vente (which translates to

works will be shown alongside other

“deposit and sale”) scene, a network

major artists that inspired him, namely

of upscale designer resale shops that

Henri Matisse, Jackson Pollock, Michel

supply Parisian women with “gently

Parmentier, and Daniel Buren.

used” luxury goods (Chanel, Yves Saint

Fashion fans will enjoy the catwalk

Laurent, Hermès, Givenchy, Louis

style homage to designer Alber Elbaz

Vuitton, and lesser-known French

entitled “Love Brings Love” at the Palais

brands) for a fraction of retail cost. Cast

Gallieria Fashion Museum. The show

thoughts of musty thrift shops from

features bespoke works from 45 fashion

your mind. These are airy boutiques

houses—think Balmain, Louis Vuitton,

brimming with second-hand blazers,

Gaultier, McQueen, and Gucci—inspired

blouses, cashmere sweaters, cocktail

by Elbaz’s unique take on an iconic

frocks, bags, shoes, and mountains of

silhouette.

impossibly chic scarves. FAVORITES: Dépôt-Vente Luxe, La Marelle, Le Dépôt-Vente de Buci, and Valois Vintage Paris.

Clockwise from top left: The Palais Gallieria Fashion Museum pays tribute to Alber Elbaz; the Bourse de Commerce museum; Septime restaurant; tasty turbot from the LVMH-owned Cheval Blanc’s Plénitude restaurant.

—— Above: La Reserve Paris.

HOTEL RAPHAEL Built in 1925, Hotel Raphael is a five-star hotel on Avenue Kléber, just minutes from the Arc de Triomphe and the Champs-Elysées. The Club features two-bedroom suites decorated in classic Louis XVI grandeur. The property reflects its status as a family heirloom, featuring cherished furnishings à la Louis XV and XVI and Belle Époque décor. Amenities include the MAJClub spa and wellness center at MAJESTIC HOTEL-SPA—Raphael’s sister hotel located three blocks away. THE PENINSULA HOTEL PARIS Part of the Club’s Hotel and Residence Collections and located steps from the Champs-Élysées, The Peninsula Hotel Paris celebrates Parisian pleasure. Explore the City of Light via chauffeured Mini Cooper Clubman cars or walk to nearby attractions and museums. Superior suites feature ample space, with separated bedroom and living rooms. LA RESERVE PARIS As part of the Club’s Hotel Collection, La Reserve’s sophisticated vibe feels more like a private club than hotel. Velvet drapes, herringbone oak parquet, and antique furnishings lend a quintessential 19th-century Parisian style throughout the 26 suites and 14 rooms. The hotel is housed in the former residence of designer Pierre Cardin and known for stellar cuisine at Le Gabriel restaurant.

Opposite: The lobby at Rusacks, St. Andrews’ historic 19th-century hotel located on the edge of the Old Course. Above: The gardens at Lindores Abbey Distillery.

GREAT SCOT! Storybook streetscapes and centuries-old abbeys. Cutting-edge art and exquisite cuisine. At Pittormie Castle, Jackie Caradonio uncovers an enchanting link between Scotland’s revered past and its burgeoning present. WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACKIE CARADONIO

STEVE LOVES LUNA. AND I’M PRETTY SURE LUNA LOVES STEVE. THE BARN OWL

RESTS CONTENTEDLY ON THE SCOTSMAN’S GLOVED HAND, AS HE GENTLY CARESSES HER FROM NAPE TO TAIL. “It’s like touching a cloud,” he says of her snowy white feathers. I lightly

run my fingers down her back, matching his careful motions. He’s right: Luna is the softest thing I’ve ever felt. Dapper in a flat cap, tweed jacket, and green tie embroidered with a tiny pheasant, Steve Brazendale would be the epitome of the classic Scotsman, even if he weren’t carrying a giant bird on his wrist. The founder (and titular personality) of Scottish Countryman, an experiential company that shows travelers what he calls, quite simply, “Scottishness,” he leads guests on archery, falconry, fly-fishing, and other classic endeavors. He’s joined me on a typically gray afternoon at Pittormie Castle, where, on the trim lawn dotted with daffodils, he introduces me to a handful of his feathered friends.

There’s Luna, of course, who I come to think of as the princess of the group— gentle, calm, precious yet sophisticated. Then there’s Ilsa, the sassy eagle owl who keeps Steve on his toes; Eltai, the majestic golden eagle whose wingspan is a sight to behold; and Murray, the Harris’s hawk that nimbly flies to and fro between his owner, who dangles sweet morsels of meat, and my own gloved hand. Finally, there’s Arabia, the Saker falcon Steve has trained for years. The bird of prey is so skilled at hunting that falconers have come from as far as the Middle East in attempts to buy her from him. (The answer is always no.) She takes wing, soaring nearly 1,000 feet in the air, then swoops down at more than 100 miles per hour, as Steve swings a “lure,” a rope with feathers of prey attached to the end of it. “Arabia can fly for miles,” the Scotsman tells me after the falcon has taken her perch once again on his arm, feasting on a chick he’s procured as reward for her performance. “There have been a few times that she’s gone so far, I’ve nearly lost her. But she always comes home.”

KEYS TO THE CASTLE I had only just arrived at Pittormie a few days earlier, but the notion of home at the baronial castle had already begun to take hold. In 2022, it’s not often you consider something built in the 18th century to be the pinnacle of luxury, and yet, the estate, which today is owned and operated by the prestigious Eden Club, sits at the perfect tipping point of historic authenticity and modern comfort. The fiefdom of various noble families over time (including, most recently, the owners of Drambuie Scotch), it is a patchwork of turrets, crenelations, towers, and finials. Inside its five Exclusive Resorts apartments—built from the former stables— classic refinement and contemporary style collide: At the foot of the canopied beds, flatscreen TVs are nestled into tartan-upholstered ottomans; the electric fireplaces come roaring to life with the touch of a button; and the kitchen, while outfitted with the latest technology, retains a trace of antiquity with vintage-inspired ranges and Georgian silver candlesticks. Of course, Bridgerton has taught us that every castle has its cast of characters, and Pittormie is no different. Among the maze of living areas—the lounge lined with portraits of noble Scotsmen, the grand dining room where the high-backed chairs feel like thrones, and the Wee Bar, aptly named for its intimate size and exquisite collection of whiskies—general manager Fiona McIlroy and her team ensure everything is just so: every pour of whisky or shaken martini; every elegant dish served on crisp white linens; every pillow fluffed, every window polished, and every experience—whether a round of golf or day of falconry— perfectly planned.

From left: The master bedroom at one of the Exclusive Resorts’ apartments at Pittormie Castle; St. Andrews, North Street; Falconer Steve Brazendale, aka the Scottish Countryman, and Luna the barn owl, at Pittormie Castle; One Under Bar, a pub in St. Andrews.

P 62

Pittormie Castle is located at the apex of Scotland’s past and present too. Ten miles to the north lies Dundee, where a creative counterculture is driven by a contingency of students attending the local art and design academy and bolstered by the V&A Dundee. The first branch of the prestigious Victoria & Albert to open outside of London, the museum is a modern reflection of the landscapes of Scotland, designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma in undulated concrete “cliffs” above the Tay River. Its first curated exhibit Tartan, now on display, has already established the institution as a contemporary arbiter of Scottish culture, exploring the fabric’s role as a symbol of royalty and establishment, as well as rebellion and provocation.

ST. ANDREWS, THE OLD COURSE & OLD-TIME CEILIDH The past, however, lies just seven miles to the east of Pittormie, past rolling green hills dotted with fluffy sheep and Highland cattle, in St. Andrews. Widely considered to be the birthplace of golf, home to Scotland’s oldest university, and crammed with medieval ruins and neo-Gothic landmarks, the town is inextricably linked to its venerable history. Every golfer worth their Titleist has played—or at least dreamt of playing—the Old Course, the world’s first 18 holes, established in 1552 between the beaches of the North Sea and the edge of town. And at 609 years old, the University of St. Andrews was the third Englishspeaking higher education institution to be established anywhere, following Oxford and Cambridge. (Perhaps more famously today is the fact that both Prince William and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, studied there.)

Opposite: Pittormie Castle dates back to 1764. Above: an Exclusive Resorts apartment at Pittormie Castle. 63

It’s a rare spring day that doesn’t require a scarf or jacket when I stroll past the university and head up to 18, the new rooftop bar and restaurant at Rusacks hotel where I catch a pheasant’s-eye view of the Old Course’s 18th hole. Golfers and non-golfers alike have gathered for sunset cocktails on the terrace, and a mini green has been set up for putting practice (and Instagram posts). Below, bleachers splashed with a giant 150 have just been erected in preparation for the 150th Open Championship. As the sun peaks out from behind a sliver of clouds, casting celestial rays of light onto the fairway below, it feels like everyone in St. Andrews is clinking glasses and slurping oysters along with me. Nearly every spot in town seems to deliver a similar sense of Scottishness, however subtly or straightforward. Homemade focaccia, line-caught haddock, and other farm-to-table cuisine are dished up alongside fresh flower bouquets and small-batch gin at Mitchell & Co. Miles of cashmere in every hue are carefully folded at the House of Cashmere. Scents of wild nettle, heather, juniper, and whisky are captured in-bottle at the Highland Soap Co. And at Forgan’s, come 10:30 p.m., the tables are whisked away, and the raucous band strikes up, turning the trendy restaurant into an old-time ceilidh, where the Britannia Twosteps and Circassian Circles last until the wee hours.

LINDORES ABBEY DISTILLERY & AQUA VITAE While I’m already fully convinced of the friendly allies past and present make in this part of Scotland, I’m even more persuaded the next afternoon when I head west from Pittormie Castle to Lindores Abbey, the country’s oldest—and

From left: The Pittormie concierges at the castle entrance; whisky stills at Lindores Abbey Distillery; Oysters at 18, the rooftop restaurant and bar overlooking the Old Course; the V&A Dundee, the first Victoria & Albert museum outside of London.

simultaneously one of its newest—distilleries. The earliest written record of Scotch Whisky refers to this very spot, just a stone’s throw from the line separating the Highlands and the Lowlands. It was here, at the behest of King James IV, that the monks made the first barrels of Aqua Vitae (as Scotch was then known) in 1494. But curiously—perhaps owing to the piety of the monks or the untimely death of the king in the Battle of Flodden—the regular distillation of Scotch would not take place for another 500 or so years, when, in 2017, the Lindores Abbey Distillery was founded. I feel as if I am blending all that history together as I swirl a dram of one of Lindores Abbey’s first-release Scotches in the aubergine-hued tasting room. “Our Scotch is light and gentle, with caramels and orchard fruits,” one of the distillery’s guides, John Dorrian, tells me. “It’s very indicative of the Lowlands.” I can taste it all: the king’s demands and the monks’ obedience. The refuge William Wallace took here after the 1298 Battle of Black Earnside. The destruction John Knox the Reformer visited upon the abbey in the name of Protestantism in the 16th century. Not to mention a touch of citrus and hint of spice. The sips warm my belly amid visions of battle and conquest, tempting me to take yet another dram. Then, suddenly, the image of Arabia soars into my mind, calling me back to Pittormie Castle. I have enjoyed the fruits of centuries of labor. Now it’s time to go home.

STAY PITTORMIE CASTLE CLUB RESIDENCES The Club’s Eden Club Residences at Pittormie Castle are quintessential Scottish luxury, located less than 15 minutes from The Old Course at St Andrews and 1.5 hours from historic Edinburgh. Pittormie Castle adventures include horseback riding, salmon fishing, and falconry. Located in the birthplace of golf, exquisite courses await. While a resident at Pittormie Castle, Members will also access decadent cuisine by the Michelin-starred resident chef.

Bedrooms: 2 Baths: 2.5 Accommodates: 5

The Sea is Our Clubhouse Experience a lifetime of memories with a membership aboard the B&G Fleet. With over 70 Hinckley Yachts from Nantucket Sound to the Bahamas, all captained, all provisioned and all at your beck and call, yachting has never been better. Reach out to info@bartonandgray.com to learn more.

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Parties, places & people.

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MEZCAL

MIXOLOGY MONTERREY, MX Guests joined Exclusive Resorts at Bibeca in collaboration with Mezcal Bruxo. After enjoying canapés and mezcal, the evening concluded with Club and mixology education.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANA GABRIELA ALBO

—— ROW 1, from left: Signature cocktail; Bibeca restaurant owner Ana Cristina Ríos Jimenez. ROW 2: Miguel Marcos, Andrés Rivera and Maurico García; Fernanda Ruíz Najera with Pilar Osuna de Gutiérrez. ROW 3: Culinary bites; José Miguel Benavides; Santiago Gómez Mont.

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CAL-A-VIE

DINNER VISTA, CA Guests visited Cal-aVie Health Spa in Vista, California, for the ultimate wellness reset evening and dinner experience at L’Orangerie, followed by a special opera performance.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JENNA KAUFMAN FOR GREENLIT PRODUCTIONS

—— ROW 1, from left: Cal-a-Vie Health Spa. ROW 2: Shirli Weiss and George Pache; Club Members and Exclusive Resorts executives enjoy the sunset. ROW 3: James Henderson chats with event guests; Tilly Levine; attendees share a smile. ROW 4: Steve Ahn; the Wellness Reset Dinner menu; wine time at L’Orangerie.

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ONCE-IN-A-

LIFETIME JOURNEY URUGUAY + ARGENTINA The Club’s first 2022 Once-in-a-Lifetime Journey led Members through the cultural and culinary delights of South America’s cherished countries.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEMBER ANNETTE BRADBURY

—— ROW 1, from left: Francois Ferre, Dan Bradbury, Bill Geary, Kathy Geary, Yoram Shemesh, Lisa Shemesh, Sherrill Gray, John Gray, LaNae Ceryanec, Joe Ceryanec, Mark Oman and Jill Oman, Saul Shelton, Troy Vigil, Mark Burns, Sasha Burns, and Magda Marquet. ROW 2: Dan and Annette Bradbury; horses on the Andes. ROW 3: Troy Vigil, Pablo Atchugarry, Mark Burns, Dan Bradbury, Pablo Atchugarry, Francois Ferre, Annette Bradbury, Magda Marquet, Lisa Shemesh, Yoram Shemesh, Joe Ceryanec, LaNae Ceryanec, Sherrill Gray, John Gray, Saul Shelton; a gaucho cooks lunch; Ranch sisters hosting the group. ROW 4: Mercado de San Telmo; Francois Ferre and Magda Marquet; in the vineyard. 70

CONNECT

ART OF

MIXOLOGY SCOTTSDALE, AZ Attendees mastered the art of mixology at Scottsdale’s MercBar, where a certified agave expert demonstrated how to master the perfect vacation cocktail inspired by various Club Destinations. PHOTOGRAPHY BY TAVIT PHOTOGRAPHY

—— ROW 1, from left: Reena Marwah, Neil Marwah and Brian Gauger. ROW 2: Mixologist Elissa Dunn; Jim Dryburgh with Reena and Neil Marwah. ROW 3: Jason Kitchens and Calvin Carr; Lori Dryburgh; Deborah Klatski and Burton Sutker. ROW 4: Art of mixology; Jason Kitchens; Sonya Zepeda, Calvin Carr, and Michael Licamele.

PARTING SHOT

POOL PARTY On a recent trip to Peninsula Papagayo, photographer Stefanie Michejda captures an unusual guest.

“Two spider monkeys mysteriously appeared on Exclusive Resorts’ property and no one knows how they got there,” Michejda says. “Spider Monkeys are not native to the peninsula, rather, they live about four hours away in Costa Rica’s more tropical areas. “My boys especially loved learning these fun facts: Sometimes if a spider monkey doesn’t have a troop, it will join a different species. This pair was spotted with a troop of howler monkeys. Spider monkeys also have no thumbs (just four long fingers) and they feed on fruits, bark, flowers, the occasional insect, and prefer leaves from certain trees only found on the Club’s property. Plus, the spider monkey’s prehensile tail can support the whole weight of its body!”

A Revolution in Sustainable Travel

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CURATED Magazine by Exclusive Resorts • Summer 2022

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