jhgdss by dora

Must Read! EASIEST-EVER EMBROIDERY · OVERLOCKER SOS

Six Great Styles Inside in sizes 4-26*

JAN 2019 ISS 119 £7.99

Simple Classics

to stitch, wear and love MIX & MATCH THESE LOOKS!

*Size ranges vary per pattern

Fall in❤

CIRCLE SKIRT

with pockets

with denim!

STYLISH TOP

Make me tonight

3PERFECT-FIT JEANS 3TWO-HOUR TOTE 3QUICK KIDS SHIRT

PERCY

New Year, New You * 36 pages of dressmaking know-how 6 2 4 s e z Si

PENGUIN

Just Fur Easy Steps!

Helo... January The new year is here, and with it brings the promise of a fresh start: despite all indications otherwise, I’m convinced that 2019 will inally be the year I clear out my ever-growing fabric stash and inish up those uninished projects! If a handmade wardrobe is at the top of your resolutions, then you’ll want to add our two enclosed patterns to your sewing to do list! Simplicity 8544 ofers four dress designs, including an option for cold shoulder sleeves (p10) and for those of you looking for something quick to sew, you’ll love Simplicity 8656 as both the top and skirt require only one pattern piece each (p13). Complete the rest of your spring capsule with Amanda Walker’s peplum frilled top (p22), a circle skirt complete with deep pockets (p26) and a drawstring top (p28) that delicately cinches in at the waist. For most of us, January brings a renewed burst of creativity and enthusiasm, so why not channel that energy into getting to grips with ‘daunting’ denim? Read our experts’ tips on p30, then learn how to patch up old trousers with help from brand-new book Mending Matters (p52), upcycle a tote on page 42, and inally tackle the ultimate wardrobe essential: a itted pair of jeans (p46) – we promise, it’s simple once you know how! If you’ve inished stitching up a storm, make your inal resolution an easy one: enter Dressmaker of the Year! It only takes ive minutes to enter and you’ll get two FREE Simplicity patterns – win, win! Turn to page 61 to meet the inspirational judges who will be picking out this year’s talented inalists.

I hope 2019 brings you many happy days of sewing!

Lucy xx

Lucy Jobber, Sew editor

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Sew Magazine, 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex, CO2 8JY

sew in your January issue... 69

We loe!

58 IN EVERY ISSUE

85 The books we’re loving

03 Welcome

Get to grips with sewing jargon

Come and say hello!

06 Who, what, wear What’s trending in the sewing world

The latest must-reads

86 Your sewing guide

60 Sew wishlist

68 Appliqué cushion

Our February issue’s out on 10th January

GIFTS

69 Fish decorations

TEA BREAK

Susie Johns shows you how to embroider motifs

45 Breaking the pattern interview

58 Bouquet hoop

89 Next month

Sew chats to the founders of Named Clothing

70 Stitch & learn

53 Stitchy resolutions

90 Style story: pyjamas

You’ll never lose a needle again! Add a splash of colour to your home

January’s top picks are every dressmaker’s dream! Our round-up of sewing classes

It’s time to meet our line-up of judges!

68 Tool pouch

Sweet dreams are these

17 Sew social You’ve been sharing your makes

61 Dressmaker of the Year

2019 is going to be your most creative year yet!

54 Car shirt

This make is bloomin’ beautiful

66 Confessions of a sewing addict Corinne resolves to break her hoarding habits

Use these as wrist rests while on the computer

69 Percy the Penguin Our mascot was lovingly named by a Sew reader

HOME 64 Stuart Hillard Our columnist goes global in the search for inspiration

74 Casserole carry-all Stitch this for all of your preserves

75 Fabric fruit bowl Add a soft touch to any kitchen surface

76 Trivets These mats are super-stylish

77 Pom-pom seat pad A pretty and practical make! 04

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FREEBIES & OFFERS

PATTERNS INSIDE

Dressmaking pages of fashion,

Make easy-to-sew garments

30 garments & more! 10 Flattering frock Create a dress for every occasion 13 Stylish skirt Cut out and sew with just one pattern piece 20 Luxurious silk This month’s statement picks 22 Sienna top For easy, everyday style 24 Fashion forecast We’ve hand-picked stunning linen fabrics 25 Hazel skirt Learn how to stitch perfect pockets

28 Donna top Take the drawstring tee up a notch 30 Sewing SOS Expert advice for working with denim 32 Debbie Shore’s show and tell Master machine smocking 34 Indie pattern news Don’t miss out on these independent brand picks 36 Lauren Guthrie’s top tools... for ixing mistakes

37 Daisy top Add inverted pockets with Fiona Hesford’s masterclass 40 Eden dress This make is itted, lared and fabulous! 42 Denim tote Sew an upcycled bag 44 Sewing with Tilly Fast overlocker ixes for perfect seams and hems 46 Palo jeans Add this denim staple to your capsule wardrobe 52 Mending matters Repair your much-loved jeans

20% off* CRAFTY SEW & SO

06 25% OFF* Bedecked The new year calls for a replenished stitchy stash!

07 20% OFF* Crafty Sew & So Get 2019 of to a great start by stocking up on fabric!

82 WIN! Giveaways Prizes worth over £1,500!

84 Reader ofer 50% OFF Sew Style: Stitch Your Look bookazine

Subscribe today... FREE GIFT

FREE NEXT MONTH... 89

FREE*PATTERN, FABRIC & ADHESIVE WHEN YOU SUBSCRIBE TO SEW!

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STITCHY PRIZES TO WIN! Enter online at

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Charcoal

SEW A CAPSULE WARDROBE TROUSERS, JUMPSUITS, KIMONOS & MORE

wear

who what

The sewing world is a hub of excitement – keep up!

On 28th January, The Royal School of Needlework is opening the Hampton Court Palace doors to The Embroidered Home exhibition. This new display will show how embroidery has been used throughout the 19th and 20th centuries to adorn abodes across the nation. The exhibit showcases everything from bedspreads, to cushion covers. £16 per person, royal-needlework.org.uk

Animal lovers Inject some fun into your stitchy projects with the Sew Perfect Pets book by Helen Rhiannon! It features 18 whimsical animal-themed designs which are ideal for sewers of all abilities, plus they’ll bring a touch of playfulness and practicality to your home. The projects include an owl doorstop, elephant tea cosy and a foxy pillow, to name a few. £12.99, searchpress.com

*Valid from 10th December 2018 until 10th January 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with sale items.

20% off

Home sweet home

Party time! Everyone needs a New Year’s Eve party outit – and we think the Wattle skirt from Megan Nielsen is perfect for the occasion. This pattern features four pleated and gathered skirt variations which will leave you feeling like the belle of the ball! With a stylish crossover closure on the slash pockets and three diferent lengths to choose from, you’ll be able to kick your sewing skills up a notch, too. £13.30, megannielsen.com

Crafty Sew and So Get the year of to a great start by stocking up your stash! Head over to Crafty Sew and So with discount code SEWCRAFTY20* to bag yourself 20% of everything from fabulous fabrics, to those all-essential haberdashery pieces. craftysewandso.com

20% OFF!*

English Traditions The brand-new Liberty London fabric range will be available at Alice Caroline from 1st January! There will be two collections, one of which is English Eccentrics that features traditional Liberty prints which have been recoloured and inspired by historical igures. alicecaroline.co.uk 06

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If you buy one pattern... Step into the new year in style with this fabulous Simplicity 8092 pattern which includes skirts, culottes and shorts ready for the summer months. With this pack to hand, you’ll be able to practise adding side zips, hand and machine sewn hems, as well as pleats and interfacing. The pattern comes with ive diferent garment variations, which you can make in cool chambray, cotton, linen and crepe. £9.50, simplicitynewlook.com

The Innov-is A80 is a lightweight machine which comes with its own hard case – perfect for taking your sewing with you wherever you go! With 80 built-in stitches and eight automatic one-step buttonholes, this machine is ideal for a broad range of projects. Its large, clear LCD screen provides you with helpful guidance, plus the one-step needle threader and built-in ine tension settings are easy to use for sewists of all abilities. £449, brothersewing.co.uk

boden.co.uk

want it, need it, BUY IT!

Enter Dressmaker of the Year for the chance to win a Brother machine! p52

Capsule colection

25%

OFF!*

Check out Lisa Comfort’s eBook My Capsule Wardrobe: Work To Weekend! The collection contains ive beautiful patterns in sizes 8 to 20, which will see you through every day of the week, including stylish oice staples and relaxed, casual designs. Not sure where to begin? Try starting with this smart and stylish Camille jumpsuit. £25, sewoverit.co.uk

25% off* Bedecked! What better way to shop for those allimportant fabric and habby essentials than with an amazing discount? That’s why Bedecked Haberdashery is providing a 25% off* discount with code SEW01, so you can stock up on everything from beautiful printed materials, to pretty buttons and silky ribbons. bedecked.co.uk

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*Valid from 13th December 2018 until 10th January 2019. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Minimum order is £7.50.

NEW YEAR, NEW YOU collection

We can’t think of anything better than kicking of 2019 with a brand-new handsewn wardrobe. Why not get started with this month’s capsule set? There are terriic tops to mix and match with skirts, plus oh-soglam dresses with multiple sleeve styles to choose from. PAGE

10 floral

get stitching with your easy patterns

FROCK PAGE

Hello, new spring dress! It’s time to master silks and sheers

slip-on

JERSEY SKIRT This style brings sass in just one pattern piece

our pattern PROMISE All of our patterns are available in sizes 8-20* * Covermounted gifts may vary 08

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PAGE

25 pocket

DESIGN Discover the magic of the midi with a statement circle skirt

PAGE

37 linen

LOVELY Crack subtle pleats and capped sleeves with our photo-guide

PAGE

22 PAGE

pretty

PEPLUM TOP

zig zag

V-NECK

Stitch frills that will thrill with our easy cotton top

Delicately cinch in your waist with this genius drawstring feature

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Discover the get stitching with your easy patterns

potential

In association with the STITCH IT WITH

of your

A-series

2EASY

patterns

Freshen up your wardrobe for the new season with these two SIMPLE-SEW PATTERNS! You’ll be able to create a quick and top and skirt which can be made using just one pattern piece each, plus super stylish dresses which are great for New Year’s Eve parties and beyond. Begin with Simplicity 8544, which has FOUR DRESS variations with diferent sleeve lengths, cuf styles and frills, and can be made with a number of fabrics, including challis, crepe, cotton and silk.

creating the NECK Making sure the neck lies lat is essential for achieving a professional inish on this garment. So remember to add plenty of clips to the curve and use understitching on the facing. Likewise, be careful not to stretch the neck as you’re sewing and use stay-stitching to prevent it from misshaping.

pick your NEEDLE Our dressmaker made this garment in a silky crepe material which requires a 60 or 70 sharps needle. However, if you want to create this dress in a pretty cotton or linen, then opt for a universal needle in size 80 or 90 instead.

match it UP Prym Premium Universal Sewing Machine Needles size 70 to 100, £2.49 for five, minervacrafts.com

One of the most important things to bear in mind when working with a printed fabric is to make sure that you match up the pattern. Start by ensuring that any sizing alterations have been done before you cut out the pieces and always make a toile irst. Next, decide what part of the pattern will fall in the centre of the garment; as a general rule of thumb, the most dominant colour or feature should be in the middle of the piece.

choose a THREAD If you’re going to make one of these dresses in a lightweight fabric, then it’s best to go for a cotton or polycotton thread. This type has very little stretch and is ideal for delicate makes which use cotton or sheer materials.

ta’ DART

adding an OVERLAY With design B, you have the option to add an overlay. When stitching with sheer fabric, the biggest challenges are making sure that the material doesn’t move when cutting and the threads don’t pucker when sewing. To avoid this, pre-wash the fabric and apply a spray-on stabiliser as this will make it less likely to shift when cutting out. To prevent the seams from puckering, use a sharp needle in size 60/8 or 70/10 and either an all-purpose polyester or lightweight silk thread.

No matter which design you choose for this pattern, you’ll need to add bust darts. If you’ve sewn them before, you may have noticed that sometimes a ‘bubble’ will form at the point. To avoid this, make the last couple of stitches on the fold, leave the thread ends long enough to tie a knot and don’t backstitch. Press the dart lat along the sewing to ‘blend’ it into the stitches and press it down again.

We used Mettler Seralon Universal General Purpose thread in Lilac and Smoke for our coldshoulder dress, £1.59 for 100m, minervacrafts.com 10

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We used Polyester Crepe de Chine in Pebble, £7.50 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

Floral Print Silky Satin Dress Fabric in Blue, £2.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

find out what your second pattern has to offer ON p13

STITCH IT WITH In association with the

A-series your bonus pattern

4 gorgeous

style selector

party dresses

style a COLD SHOULDER Liven up this timeless shift dress with cold shoulder sleeves and a criss-cross keyhole-style neckband. The delicate bow sleeves make this outit a number one choice for glamorous occasions.

style B SCALLOPED STYLE This classic dress includes a gorgeous scalloped edge overlay. You can opt for patterned or plain sheer material, but make sure the colour or print you use underneath is bold and bright enough to show through the overlay.

style C FRILLY CAPS If you prefer your party dresses with short sleeves but still want to add a bit of glamour, then choose design C. These loaty capped sleeves are a gorgeous addition to an otherwise plain shift dress.

style D CLASSY CUFFS Want to make a statement in your next frock? This style is deinitely for you! You can almost guarantee there won’t be anyone else at the party wearing this unique dress with its itted cufs and open underarm sleeves.

why we made Bracelets, £10, next.co.uk

STYLE A Our dressmaker created style A to show off the beautiful cold shoulder design. We love the simplicity of this dress: it’s a classic shift shape, which has been jazzed up with flouncy sleeves. This make is ideal for practising darts, facings and pattern matching, too. 11

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In association with the

size

the right

A-series

get stitching with your easy patterns

what’s your size? Remember to use your body measurements to ind your pattern size, NOT the ready-to-wear size that you’d buy in high street shops. Visit simplicitynewlook.com to ind out more about taking accurate measurements and getting the right it for your shape.

BABY HEMS For all of the dress designs, you’ll need to use lightweight fabrics, so a narrow hem which is roughly 0.8cm wide is ideal. These hems are pretty easy to apply to thin and slippery fabrics as long as you have the right tools to hand. To achieve a clean edge when you fold and stitch the hem, cut the material and add an anti-fraying spray straight afterwards – this will make the fabric much easier to work with.

STAYSTITCHING This technique is essential for curved or diagonal areas which may stretch out when sewing, and it’s particularly useful for the neckline on this pattern. When staystitching in this area, it’s a good idea to begin at one shoulder and sew to the centre front, then cut the thread and repeat on the other shoulder. This will ensure that the stitches will be even on both sides. It’s also best to do this as soon as possible after cutting out the fabric, as moving it too much can stretch out the curves.

BUTTON UP If you’re making design D, then you’ll need four half-inch buttons for the cufs. Sewing buttonholes can sometimes be tricky, especially when they’re fairly small, so try these top tips to make it easier. Start by investing in a buttonhole cutter; they’re much more accurate and sharper than seam rippers. Before cutting the buttonhole, soak the front and back with a non-fray spray and remember to check the bobbin case for a little arm with a hole in it; if it has one of these, then thread the bobbin through as this will ensure a crisp tension.

ds a classics Design Dstblaen eeve shift with tement sl 12

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In association with the

A-series

creative bonus patterns

with your

get

quick tips on OVERLOCKING An overlocker sews, cuts and inishes seams on knitted fabrics with professional precision. To make sure the quality of the inish remains consistent throughout when you’re creating your garment, use the same thread for the overlocker that you would use when on a sewing machine. However, this doesn’t mean you have to spend more than usual on expensive thread; large cones of black, white and grey should do the trick.

catering for STRETCH If you choose to make the skirt, then you’ll need a knit fabric. To sew with this material you should use a ball point or stretch needle; these types have a rounded tip which allows them to separate the threads of the fabric and pass through without ripping it. Likewise, it’s best to use a narrow zig zag or stretch stitch to provide the seams with some ‘give’.

Dressmaking scissors, visit prym.com for stockists

Our dressmaker used Mod Floral Stripes Blue Grey Cotton Jersey, £8.95 per metre, girlcharlee.co.uk

Blouse, £28, riverisland.com; necklace, £14, next.co.uk; shoes, £34.99, tkmaxx.com

The Simplicity 8656 pattern ofers you the opportunity to make a top and a skirt which can be made in just three hours, as they only require one pattern piece each! The skirt can be stitched in a range of stretch knits, including jersey, whereas the top can be created in everything from lightweight cotton and double georgette, to crepe and silk. Although the makes are simple, you’ll still be able to expand your sewing skillset by practising with overlocking, hemming and elastic waistbands.

elasticate the WAIST When it comes to the waistband, one of the best and most cost-efective ways to feed the elastic through the casing is by using a large safety pin. Simply attach it to one end of the elastic and push it through while simultaneously pulling the fabric back. Also, to secure the elastic so it won’t twist when wearing it, make sure you stitch through the thickness of the casing in the groove of each seam.

your BONUS pattern Create the top with Linear Floral Print Soft Dress Fabric in Wine & Red, £8.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com 13

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In association with the

3 machines partydream

ready £299 dresses

BEGINNER FRIENDLY

A-series

2 quick

& easy makes

INNOV-IS A16

Necklace, £17.50, Marks & Spencer; shoes, £22.99, New Look; bag, £15.99, New Look; bracelet, model’s own

Are you new to sewing, or looking for a machine that is simple to use? The Innov-is A16 is ideal for beginners who want to learn or advance their skills. The jog dial makes selecting stitches easy, while the one-touch needle threader and quick-set bobbin will have you speeding through your sewing projects.

UNIQUE PROJECTS

£499

INNOV-IS A150

The Innov-is A150 has been designed to grow with you as you take your skills and creativity to the next level. You’ll be able to personalise projects with an impressive 150 decorative styles and four lettering stitches, plus you can create professionallooking monograms and labels. You can also combine, mirror and repeat stitches to make your own unique sewing patterns.

why we made DESIGN A Our dressmaker chose to make the skirt to show off the super-stylish side ruffle. Depending on how you accessorise it, this garment can be smartened up for work or made into a beautiful outfit for a special occasion.

Visit brothersewing.co.uk

Sizes 12-20 (US)

Sizes 6-14 (US)

Next month’s 2 FREE patterns 14

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CASUAL STYLE It’s time to start thinking about what garments you’re going to make for your spring wardrobe. These two easy-wear patterns should be at the top of your list!

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British Wool

Indonesian Bank

Printed Crepe

Finest cotton Lawn

Mercerised Jersey

Plain Crepe

Chiffon and Georgette

Cotton Dress fabric

Wool Suiting

Liberty Art fabrics

Pattern Jersey

Lace

Boiled Wool

Brushed Cotton

Linen

We are a family company based in Lancashire and we have been supplying mail order fabrics direct to your door for over 40 years. Please contact us to request your free fabric catalogue or visit us online.

Flat rate Postage ÂŁ2.95, please quote code SEWPOST295

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sew YOU!

You’ve been sharing your latest makes with us on social media, and here are some of our favourites!

My favourite project to date has to be this Halloween costume! Savannah Layland

The attention to detail on this garment is phenomenal, Savannah!

This is one of my favourite makes because it cured my fear of buttonholes! Rebekah Cunningham

Find Percy on

p69

Say Helo to Percy!

This week, I made a faux leather wallet with weaving to match a bag I made earlier in the year. I love working with this kind of material because it really transforms a simple project into something special. Christine Davis

This is just one of the many dresses I’ve sewed for my daughters. This particular frock is a graduation ball gown. Gail Mcknight Anderson

I made this family tree out of felt and sequins using freehand machine embroidery. Helen Marie

chosen by you Each month on Facebook, we ask you to help us choose a name for our issue’s mascot. “I named your mascot Percy because, years ago, I bought my son a cuddly penguin and he gave it this name. Since then, every penguin he comes across he names it the same thing!” Tracy Drury, Sew reader Help us to choose a name for next month’s mascot at facebook.com/sewhq 17

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Tracy has won a set of Aerofil sew-all threads from madeira.co.uk

Continued overleaf

social

Sponsored by Minerva Crafts

www.minervacrafts.com

Write in and WIN! I made this 60s-inspired coat with green wool and a beautiful, silky lining. I’ve also created a matching handbag and an A-line mini skirt. Laura Dickson

I made this cushion with embroidery lace for my daughter. Camelia, Twitter

This is so sweet, Camelia!

I stitched these dresses for three sisters who attended a spring wedding – how adorable do they look? Robyn Nicoll

My favourite handmade project has to be my daughter’s dungarees! Sharon Smith

Finally completed this hand-sewn project, which I started when I began quilting ten years ago! Vicky Cooper

Hello from Australia! I’ve just received Sew’s October issue, and I love your patterns for soft toys so much that I’ve stitched Flossie Flamingo and Lionel Stitchie – his name always prompts a chuckle! Sue Cumming

on the sew blog...

Eco-friendly alternatives for just about anything are on the rise, so it’s about time we made our clothes good for the environment, too!

Sew hasn’t been able to get enough of the royal baby updates! So, we’ve channelled our baby fever into a tiny tot blog.

Three industry experts answer the questions on stretch fabrics that you’ve always wanted to know!

Read all of the latest stitchy news and more at sewmag.co.uk/blog 18

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sew YOU! This month our Star Letter winner will receive a bumper selection of fabrics from Minerva Crafts, worth £50. minervacrafts.com

stitch&share

HHHH HH

Share your latest stitchy triumphs with Sew!

sew

PAW-FECT

STAR

My little dog needlefelted in a cup! Stephanie Marsh

letter

PICTURE PERFECT This autumnal scene has a felt background and is completely hand-embroidered. Delphine Brooks

Touching story

When I was struggling to complete this skirt, my closest friend encouraged me to keep stitching it – she couldn’t wait to see the garment once it was finished! I lost my dear friend suddenly before the skirt was finished, but I wore it to her funeral.

JINGLE BELLS

Joanne Vernon

I learnt how to make this colourful wreath at my sewing class. Jennifer Rhodes

What a special memory, Joanne, your friend would have been delighted with the skirt.

A baby pinafore dress with flowershaped appliqué. Brenda Marie Walker

This is adorable, Brenda!

TWIT TWOO A robin purse complete with a cute button. Claire Dolby

DOLL’S DRESS I stitched this tiny garment. Sharon Williams

I made this Harry Potter-inspired quilt for my HP-obsessed son! The blanket was the first one I’d made, and it’s far from perfect, but the look on his face when I gave it him made it all worthwhile! Rachel Osborne

Share your makes via social media @sewhq or email to editorial@sewmag.co.uk 19

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satins & SILKS

2 Bargain

FABRIC BUY!

You heard it here irst: silk is January’s ‘it’ material. This shimmering fabric was irst developed in China and can be dated back to 3630 BC. Just like in ancient East Asia, the method for making silk is still a long-winded one – to produce 1kg of material, 3,000 silk worms have to eat 104kg of mulberry leaves! However, if you’re looking for a fabric which is equally as luxurious but without the hefty price tag, satins and chifons are an excellent substitute for the real deal as they’re much more durable and the smooth texture feels oh-so comfortable against the skin.

1 2 3 4 5 6

Silky satin in Abstract Digital, £7.25 per metre, abakhan.co.uk Satin dupion in Royal Blue, £8.99 per metre, abakhan.co.uk Liquid satin in Emerald Green, £2.99 per metre, abakhan.co.uk Silk chifon in Burn Out, £23.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com Duchess satin in Plain Purple, £8.99 per metre, abakhan.co.uk Silky satin in Floral Gardens, £6.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

5 6 20

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Project exclusive to

For easy everyday sew! style, create our

sew a

SIENNA TOP

PEPLUM TOP Get started â&#x20AC;˘ Fabric, 2m (150cm) â&#x20AC;˘ Hook and eye

Sizes 8-20

This pretty floral design by Amanda Walker is ideal for both work and play, as it can be smartened up with a pair of straight-leg trousers, or made casual with comfy denim jeans. The gorgeous frill detailing adds a unique touch to this peplum-style top, plus youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get the opportunity to advance your stitchy skillset by adding bias binding, facings, gathers and a narrow rolled hem.

Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one pair Lower front: cut two on the fold Lower back: cut two on the fold Sleeve: cut one pair Frill: cut two on the fold Neckband: cut a bias strip, 4cm x 68cm

sleeves, starting from the front notch and finishing at the back. Match, pin and stitch the underarm seams together, right sides facing, then press the seams open and turn the sleeves to the right side. Pull the gathering threads up slightly, then place the sleeve into the armhole.

1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk, then cut out the pattern pieces according to the cutting guide. On both sides of the bias strip, fold and press in 1cm. Neaten the front and back shoulder seam edges, then position the front piece over the back, right sides facing, and stitch. Press the seams open.

Open one side of the bias strip and position it around the neckline. Pin in place, then sew along the fold line pressed into the bias strip. Fold the strip over onto the wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the sewing, then pin and edgestitch while sandwiching the raw edge of the neckline inside the binding.

Neaten the centre back edges and ends of the binding. Stitch the centre back seam together from the base up to the notch for the opening, then press. Iron the seam allowance in the back opening and neaten the side edges of the front and back top pieces. Match up the side seams, then pin, stitch and press open.

Neaten the long edges of the sleeves. Sew a row of gathering stitch around the head of the

Match the side and underarm seams together by aligning the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the one at the end of the shoulder seam. Adjust the gathers to fit the armhole, then pin and stitch. Neaten the seam allowances of the armhole and the base of the sleeves. Fold and press a 3cm hem, then stitch.

Neaten the short edges of the lower top pieces; these are now the side seams. Lay one on top of the other with right sides facing, then pin and sew the side seams together. Along one of the edges, sew a double row of gathering stitch. Pull up the threads and distribute the gathers evenly until it fits the base of the top and the side seams match. Join the top to the lower part, then pin and stitch. Neaten the seam allowance and press it upwards, then neaten the base, pressing the hem and securing in place.

Make the frill by joining the two strips together to create a circle. Overlock the two edges by setting the machine to a roll hem. Add gathering stitch through the centre of the circle, then pull the threads up, distributing the gathers evenly while positioning the frill over the seam line in between the top and the lower piece. Match the side seams and stitch. Sew a hook and eye to the top of the back opening. 22

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sew DRESSMAKING

Core skill: Use a double thread for the needle (unless the fabric is very delicate), and knot the end. Bury the knot under the hook, then sew the holes on the end in place using simple in and out loops or buttonhole stitch. Repeat a number of times, depending on the strength of the fabric and thread. Sew the neck of the hook to the material to keep it flat.

0 -2

SI Z E S

HOOK AND EYE

sew SHOPPER

sew free TEMPLATE download sewmag.co.uk /templates

DELICATE FLORALS Add a dainty touch to your outfit with the beautiful Mist Flora Luminous from the Indie Folk collection at Art Gallery Fabrics. £22.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Bracelets, £12.50, marksandspencer.com; trousers, £24.99, tkmaxx.com

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Stitch the Look

WHY NOT TRY?

LOVELY IN LINEN

It’s no surprise that this versatile material is often a go-to choice for dressmakers who want to sew an easywear garment! This woven textile comes in a whole host of variations; lightweight linen is fantastic for spring tees and will keep you cool as the weather gets warmer, whereas the strong fibres of the heavyweight versions are ideal for suits and jackets. Not only that, but linen is a dream to stitch and its distinctive grain line makes cutting incredibly smooth.

“ Linen is wonderful to sew on any domestic machine, but you must pre-wash it and use pinking shears when cutting it to prevent fraying. Available in many lovely colours, this material is perfect for making dresses, shirts, skirts and more!”

Caroline Boardwell-Reid, Croft Mill 1 Linen chambray in Red, £16 per metre 2 Linen chambray in Mint, £16 per metre 3 Linen chambray in Turquoise, £16 per metre 4 Linen chambray in Grey, £16 per metre 5 Linen chambray in Cerise, £16 per metre

Floreat dress, From £11, megannielsen. com

All of the featured fabrics are available from croftmill.co.uk

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sew DRESSMAKING

Introducing the pocket-perfect

SIZE

20 8-

HAZEL SKIRT There’s something so comforting about a skirt with pockets – but being practical doesn’t mean you have to compromise on the glam factor! With its feminine pleats, this skirt by Amanda Walker is ideal as swishy day wear or an evening showstopper, and you can even add a petticoat for a retro flourish. Just remember, when you’re working with heavier fabric, attach a strip of interfacing through the fold line of the lower side to give body. Style with a wrap top to accentuate the silhouette, or a supple satin blouse for textural contrast.

sew free TEMPLATE download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sewmag.co.uk

stitch a

POCKET SKIRT

tip!

Get started

This heavy fabric helps to create structural pleats, but you could also try crisp cotton for a more A-line finish

â&#x20AC;˘ Fabric, 2m (150cm) â&#x20AC;˘ Fusible interfacing, heavyweight â&#x20AC;˘ Concealed zip, 12in

Cutting guide Front skirt: cut one on the fold Back skirt: cut one pair Upper side front: cut one pair Lower side front: cut one pair Waistband: cut one in main fabric, plus one half the width in fusible interfacing Use 1.5cm seam allowances throughout unless otherwise stated. Neaten the skirt edges where speciied using overlocking or zig zag stitch.

Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Make the pleats using the notches on the top of the back skirt piece, folding towards the centre back, then pin and stitch across the top. Match the back pieces with right sides facing through the centre back. Pin and stitch as far as the zip notch, then press the seam open.

Fold the pocket bag parts of the lower front pieces over to the wrong side, following the fold line indicated on the pattern, then press the folds. Lay the lower pieces on top of the pocket bag part of the upper side skirt, so that the base edges of the bags match. Pin and sew the base edges and neaten the allowances, then pin the edges of the bags and stitch.

Match the side pieces to the front, checking the notches match with the seams. Pin and sew, so that the edges of the pocket bags are sandwiched into the seam. Neaten the allowance, then press the seams towards the centre front. Fold the pleats into the top and stitch. Pin the side edges, right sides together, then sew. Neaten the allowances and press the seams to the back.

Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband, using a pressing cloth and plenty of steam. Neaten one of the long sides, then position the waistband along the waistline of 26

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WHY NOT TRY?

the skirt, checking the raw edges match and the centre back is in line with the centre edges of the gap for the zip. Pin in place, then stitch.

Sew the concealed zip into the centre back opening and stitch up half the waistband, using a zipper or concealed zipper foot. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the opening, then open out the allowance. With right sides together, place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the allowance, then pin.

If you’re using a concealed zipper foot, place the zip teeth into the groove; as you stitch, the foot will uncurl the teeth and the stitching will appear alongside them. If you use a normal zipper foot, uncurl the teeth with your fingertips. Sew to the top of the side seam, back-stitch, then sew the other side of the zip. Thread the pull to the right side and close.

Strong navy prints provide a pleasing balance to these clean lines. Try a tropical John Kaldor bloom or a paisley linen swirl with border stripe. From £3.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

Fold the waistband in half lengthways inside the skirt, tucking the centre back seam allowances over the edges of the zip; these sections can be handstitched. Pin the waistband on the right side of the skirt. Stitch in the seam between the pleat at the top and the band on the right side of the skirt. Neaten the hem, press 2.5cm to the inside and hand-sew.

sew SHOPPER ************************

KOKKA OVERSIZED CIRCLES NAVY For this structured skirt with its large pattern pieces, a bold fabric design in pure cotton is sure to hold its own. Kokka’s navy circles perfectly complement the broad folds for a playful elegance. £12 per metre, drapersdaughter.com

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Get curve-clinging chic with

DONNA BLOUSE Project exclusive to

If one garment has the power to shake up your wardrobe, this is it! Julia Claridge’s versatile top gives you cropped sleeves, perfect for spring sunshine, along with the option to add a polo-neck jumper underneath to make it much more practical for colder days. This project is a great choice for anyone wanting to get to grips with vents, V-necks and the ever-so stylish drawstring waist!

sew!

sew a

TIE-TOP Get started • Fabric, 1.25m (150cm) • Lightweight iron-on interfacing • Loop turner

Sizes 8-20

Cutting guide Front: cut one on the fold Back: cut one on the fold Front neck facing: cut one on the fold Back neck facing: cut one on the fold Drawstring channel: cut two strips, 5.5cm x width of bodice Drawstring strips: cut two 4.5cm x width of fabric

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Pin and stitch the back and front pieces right sides together at the shoulder seams, then neaten the raw edges. Turn and press in the long edges of the drawstring channel by 1.5cm. Join the neck facings at the shoulder seams, right sides together.

Neaten the raw inner edge of the facing. Place one of the drawstring channel strips onto the front, carefully matching the channel with the notches at the side seam. Trim 1cm of each channel end, then gently turn the seam allowance in so that it inishes 2.5cm away from each garment side.

Pin the channel in place, then slowly stitch close to its outer edge on each side, leaving the ends open. Repeat for the back channel. Apply interfacing to both neck pieces and pin to the neck edge, right sides together, ensuring that the seams and raw edges match up exactly, then stitch, trim and clip.

1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

Under-stitch the neck edge, pivoting at the V point. Sew the length of each drawstring strip, leaving the ends open for turning, and trim the seam to 0.5cm. Turn the loop to the right side, then press. Join the side seams from the underarm notch to the vent mark, then press open.

Neaten the raw edges, then press a single turned hem around the lower edge, keeping it unstitched. Sew the end of the vents, then turn it right sides out. Stitch the lower edge of the vent in line with the hem crease, turn it inside, and repeat on every vent edge on both sides.

sewmag.co.uk

Keeping close to the inner edge of the turning, slowly sew around the armhole, then around the hem and vents in the same manner. Thread the drawstrings in each side and cut them to your desired length, loosely tying a knot at the ends. Give it one inal press, then you’re inished!

sew DRESSMAKING

sew free TEMPLATE download

0 -2

Core skill:

SI Z E

sewmag.co.uk /templates

PATTERN MATCHING When sewing with any busy material, it’s important to start by considering whether the fabric has a directional print where the pattern points in the same direction, or a non-directional print. The cotton lawn our designer chose has the former, meaning that it requires careful pattern placement to ensure that all of the pieces run the same way.

sew SHOPPER ************************

************************ thank you for shopping!

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Necklace, £22.50, marksandspencer.com

LOOKING SHARP This stunning cotton lawn not only comes in a super-stylish print, but it’s also lightweight and soft-to-the-touch. £16 per metre, bobbinsnbuttons.co.uk

sewing

SoS Everything you need to know about sewing with denim

I have a tattered pair of jeans that I want to spruce up, do you have any suggestions? They have terrible holes in them and a few scruffs!

Gloria Winkless

Hannah & Rosie say If you ever want an excuse to embroider, your wornout jeans are it! You don’t even need much equipment – simply grab a hoop, needle and some embroidery thread to get started. To cover the holes, you’ll need to patch them to prevent additional tearing. Take a piece of denim and some double-sided fusible interfacing, then attach a denim square to the wrong side of the hole – remember to put the interfacing only around the edges. Use Round neck jumper and jeans, matching thread to machine-stitch this in place. dorothyperkins.com Now, time to jazz up the holes! Hand-embroider the patch to help it blend in and, if geometric patterns are your forte, why not try sashiko? This Japanese form of sewing is often used for mending and it gives a quirky twist to a pair of old jeans. You only need to learn a few sashiko stitches to incorporate a whole range of designs into your garments, plus, like all hand embroidery techniques, you can easily unpick any mistakes!

I’m itching to wear the denim jumpsuit that I was given for my birthday, but it’s far too long! How can I shorten the legs but keep the original hem? Julie Watson

Kate says

Turn to

p61 for a You’re in luck, because I have CLEVER way a super-sneaky way of doing to revamp this – just follow these simple your jeans! steps... Turn your jeans right sides out and fold the hem so that it looks like you’re creating a turn-up. Divide the length you want to shorten the jeans by in two, and use that measurement to pin the turn-up in place, making sure you match the side seams. Next, use a dark blue thread to sew and secure the turn-up – try to stitch as close to the original hem as possible. Fold the turn-up to the inside leg of your jeans to reveal your new, shorter length. If you’ve sewn close enough to the hem, you will barely notice the secret line of stitching, and your friends will be none the wiser!

lewis Jeans, £49.95 white stuff.com

Embroidered jeans, monsoon.co.uk

Oasis denim jumpsuit, £62, littlewoods.com 30

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here to

help

HANNAH & ROSIE

KATE UNDERDOWN

LISA COMFORT

Hannah and Rosie run The New Craft House: a space that ofers modern products and creative workshops.

The Fold Line is an online sewing community that features more than 10,000 patterns and reviews.

Lisa’s London store, Sew Over It, is the one-stop sewing shop for fabric, patterns, classes, habby essentials and more!

thenewcrafthouse.com

thefoldline.com

sewoverit.co.uk

How can I adapt my machine to cope with heavyweight fabrics? I want to make a spring jacket as soon as possible!

Joanne Wilson

Lisa says When sewing winter garments, the fabrics you use tend to be heavy and bulky, which means that there’s more material to squeeze under the presser foot. However, I have a few nifty techniques up my sleeve to help your machine handle these thicker fabrics. The first thing to do when sewing with wool or denim is to opt for a heavy duty needle; you need at least a size 90/14, and I often choose a dedicated denim or even leather needle because they have the ability to power through those bulky seams! I also recommend trying a longer stitch length and using goodquality thread, as it’s less likely to snap when you’re sewing. It’s important to make the most of the walking foot to help the top layer of fabric move through the machine as fast as the bottom one – this ensures that nothing gets stuck or tangled up. Also, if your machine has a speed setting, turn it down a tad to avoid those skipped stitches and to manoeuvre the material around easily.

tip! Turn the speed setting down on your machine to gain maximum control when sewing with denim. This will avoid any skipped stitches, and will assist you when manoeuvring the fabric around. Make the ultimate trousers in denim or chambray! From £8.50, sewoverit.co.uk

top 4 WORKSHOPS

For those of you who need guidance when working with denim, why don’t you try a Ray Stitch workshop? From complete beginner to advanced stitcher, there’s a class for everybody! Here are a few of our favourites...

Perfect it Making jeans course, from 15th January, £245

So creative Darning & sashiko class, from 11th January, £85

Upcycling magic Stitch and repair, from 8th January, £40

Modern inish Hand embroidery workshop, from 13th December, £65

ALL WORKSHOPS ARE RUN BY RAY STITCH, LONDON. VISIT RAYSTITCH.CO.UK FOR DETAILS.

Got a stitchy question for us? Email us at editorial@sewmag.co.uk or message us at facebook.com/sewhq and we’ll do our best to answer it! 31

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Traditional English smocking involves gathering your fabric. It is sometimes done with a ‘pleater’ which has rows of needles and a grooved roller; you can also gather your fabric and embroider it by hand, but I find it’s so much quicker to do this on your sewing machine! Bear in mind how much your fabric will ‘shrink’ when gathered, for this 15cm patch, I used a 55cm piece of fabric. If you’re including a smocked section in a dress, you can either use the fullness of the gathered fabric as a skirt, or trim the fabric back to the smocked section and sew this into a panel.

Debbie Shore’s SHOW & TELL

MACHINE SMOCKING 1

LEAVE A TRAIL

gather it up

ZIg zag stitch

Use a long straight stitch and loosen the top tension. Sew rows across your fabric, 1cm apart, and leave long thread tails at each end.

Take the bobbin thread and gently pull it, row by row, to gather. This can also be done with shirring elastic but the pleats won’t be as tight.

Knot the threads at each end to secure, then choose a decorative stitch. If you don’t have many, a simple zig zag will suice.

pleat pretty

NEAT FINISH

Sew decorative stitches across the pleats, in between the gathered lines. Using diferent coloured threads creates a beautiful efect.

You can pull out the gathering stitches if you wish Try including a smocked panel as a block in a - I’ve chosen to leave mine in place - then press quilt, or frame a single patch with a border of the surrounding fabric and trim where necessary. fabric and incorporate it into a cushion cover.

bonus ideas

For more great tips from Debbie, visit halfyardsewingclub.com 32

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S T FR O M I N

P E

E EB

D E SI G N E R S

SI Z E

NDIE pattern

8 -2

Nelly Hoodie by Pattydoo ZE

Do you love to experiment with new fabrics and colours? Then try out the Freestyle Nelly Hoodie! It comes with all sorts of practical features, including an in-seam slip pocket for your phone, and a hood that sits comfortably

SIZ ES

Diiculty:

-18 S6

at the back of the neck. The pattern also gives you the option to make it with a tubular collar and a classic kangaroo pocket on the front. From £2.60, pattydoo.de

28 4-

Leone Coat

Rachel Jumpsuit and Trousers

by Fresh Press Patterns Diiculty: Every capsule set needs a lightweight coat to see you through spring, and the Leone coat is just the ticket. With its sleek minimal design and slightly loose shape, it will easily slip over layers. The pattern is detailed with oversized blocks that have lap and single welt pockets, and it closes with hidden snaps. Finish your inside seams with bias tape or simply overlock them.

by Athina Kakou Diiculty: Whether it’s paired with a rollneck jumper or a summery tee, the Rachel pattern oozes efortless chic. Inside, you’ll ind two diferent designs to stitch: a pair of high-waisted, lared leg trousers that close with an invisible zip, and a stylish jumpsuit with panels. Both versions feature slash pockets and length variations, which means you can make a pair of culottes for summer, too.

From £10.90, freshpresspatterns.com

From £9.30, athinakakou.com 34

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sew DRESSMAKING

Tacara Dress by I Am Patterns Diiculty:

by Rosie & Me Diiculty:

SI Z

6-26

From £9.30, seamwork.com

Frida Skirt

If you’re looking to create handmade inery that can be slipped on in seconds, the Tacara dress should be irst on your list. Its cocoon silhouette comes with semi-itted sleeves, discrete in-seam pockets, and a hem that sits just above the knee. Maximise the design with a stable merino jersey, or make it swishy with a drapey rayon knit.

Want to achieve pleat-perfect style in just an afternoon? Enter Frida! This easy-sew pattern is ideal for beginners as it consists of just three pattern pieces. If you are more experienced and want to tailor the skirt to you, you’ll also have the option to add pockets, a lining and inish the waistband and pocket inserts with delicate piping. Complete with a zip and small button in the side seam.

-26

SIZ

From £8.90, rosieandme.com

SIZ ES

26 8-

Bo Top by Seamwork Diiculty: The Bo top is a wide, woven tee that acts as the perfect blank canvas for your favourite fabric – it’s suitable for all types, from hot pink chifons and sturdy denims to delicate cotton lawns and linens. The design features a lattering round neckline inished with bias tape, sleeve cufs, and a hem that hits at the high hip. Easy and breezy to sew and to wear! From £9.30, seamwork.com

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Lauren Guthrie’s

TOPforTOOLS fixing mistakes R

ips and snags are an inevitable part of sewing, whether you're repairing old clothes or making new ones! To give your mishaps a seamless finish, here are some of the super useful things that I like to use to get the job done quickly and easily.

2 4

3 1 1 TEXTILE REPAIR POWDER This Prym product is a handy no-sew way to repair tired fabrics. It's great for the lining of coats and jackets that have worn thinly or where stitching directly on the fabric would show on the outside of the garment. £3.60, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

2 SNAG WIZARD

3 ZIP CLEANER

A fine repair nail from Prym can be used to pull loose threads to the reverse of the fabric as it uses a spiral-like, ribbed end instead of an eye. Simply insert it directly next to the damaged thread, then twist several times to make your garment as good as new. £2.50, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

We have zips everywhere on our clothing, so to help keep them in tip-top condition, why not use a special solution to remove any dirt or build up of grime? It'll ensure that they are running smoothly and will last longer. McNett Zip Care, £4.95 per 60ml, scubastore.com

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4 EDGE TAPE INTERFACING Prym iron-on interfacing is perfect for stabilising fabric from behind if you accidentally snip it with scissors or catch it with a seam ripper. Iron a patch on the reverse, then sew over the hole with a short, narrow zig zag stitch to reinforce it. £5,40, guthrie-ghani.co.uk

YOU WILL LEARN: 3 Staystitching 3 Adding inverted pleats 3 Inserting in-seam pockets

sew masterclass

Make an entrance with the

DAISY TOP

Fiona Hesford's smock top is your new go-to ensemble! This super-simple make, complete with two side pockets and a sweet pleated neckline, looks lovely in a lightweight linen blend but works equally well in slinky silks and printed poplins. Creating this pretty top also challenges you to polish of the pocket pieces and neckline with staystitching and to add inverted pleats. Get started â&#x20AC;˘ Linen, 1.5m (140cm)

Sizes 8-18

Cutting guide Front: cut one Front facing: cut three Back: cut two Back facing: cut four, with one piece aligned to the centre fold and fold line Pocket: cut two pairs on the fold 1cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

sewmag.co.uk

sew DRESSMAKING

stitch a MAGENTA TOP Sew the front to the back

Fiona Hesford’s top tips for STITCHING & FINISHING l Visit sewmag.co.uk/templates to download and print the pattern, then transfer any markings onto the fabric. l If you're a size 8 to 10, you will need 1.1m (140cm) of material; if you're between 12 to 18, use 1.5m (140cm). Fabrics that are 112cm wide will need to be 1.7m, regardless of the size. l Make sure that you iron interfacing to the wrong side of the front and back neck facing pieces l Finish all of the raw edges with an overlocker or zig zag stitch, and press in between each step to obtain a better finish.

Finish the centre back long edges on both back pieces, then attach at the centre back seam, right sides together, and press the seam allowances open. Sew the front and back neck facing sections at the short ends, right sides together, then press the seams open to form a ring.

Sew down each straight edge, press the pocket away from the body, then topstitch the right side of the pocket. Join the front piece to the back at the shoulder seams, right sides together, and finish the raw edges. Press the seam allowances towards the back and topstitch to finish.

Making neck facings and hemming

4 The key factors for sewing a perfect pleat is to mark the fold and placement lines precisely

Finish the raw outer edge. Stay-stitch the neckline of the front and back pieces, then create a 4cm pleat at the centre front neck, using the template to guide you. Pin, then tack to secure. Position one of the pocket segments, right sides together, at each side of the front and back pieces.

Pin the neck facing to the neck raw edge, aligning the cross seams, then tack all around. Clip the curves at the seam allowance, then press the seam and fold it to the wrong side. Press again, aligning the line to the fold. Handstitch at the shoulder seam allowances to secure the facing.

Hand-sew the front neck facing to the pleat, wrong sides together. Finish the raw edges of each sleeve side, then fold and press 1cm at its edge. Place the front piece on top of the back one, and pin around the sides and pockets, then make sure that you finish any raw edges to neaten.

Clip the curves at the under arm seam allowance. Refold the sleeve hem, then pin and sew. Finish the lower edge of the front and back pieces with a single fold 2cm hem. Pin the pocket to wrong side of the front segment, press, then sew around the previous line of stitching. Press to finish.

sew SHOPPER

BE BOLD This linen cotton blend is a dressmaker's dream! It's mediumweight and super-easy to sew with, plus it also comes in striking magenta with a softwashed look, making the material appear as luxurious as it feels.

STATEMENT PRINT If you're looking for a pattern to turn heads at an upcoming soirée, then search no further! This linen fabric with its burgundy and petrolblue Japanese crane motif is unlike any other you’ve seen.

ALL MATERIALS ARE £13 PER METRE FROM DRAGONFLYFABRICS.CO.UK 38

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DIVE IN For a more subtle appearance, why not opt for a soft-washed linen cotton blend? The fabric, available in a swimmingly super blue hue, is perfect for the Daisy top as it drapes beautifully.

sew DRESSMAKING

Project exclusive to

sew!

sew free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Core Skill: STAYSTITCHING

sewmag.co.uk

Trousers, £26, debenhams.com

This technique refers to sewing a row of stitches close to the garment edges to help maintain its shape. It can also stay-stitch a fold of fabric to keep it in place while you attach other pieces. To stay-stitch, sew a line parallel to the cutting one, within the seam allowance, so that you won’t see the thread from the right side. It’s a good idea to sew in the same direction on both centre sides to maintain symmetry.

Fitted, flared and fabulous, it’s the sew free pattern download sewmag.co.uk /templates

EDEN DRESS Whatever your day has in store, this frock is designed to deliver! Combining flattering short sleeves with a trapeze style body, Amanda Walker’s dress has been cut from a relaxed and drapey rayon that packs a punch with florals. In just eight steps, you’ll have cracked concealed zips, inserting sleeves and picture-perfect hems. What’s not to love?

sew tip!

make a TRAPEZE DRESS

Before you inish of the base of your dress, read up on our essential overlocker tips on p24!

Get started • Fabric, 3m • Concealed zip, 22in

Lay the back and front pieces together, right sides facing, then match, pin and sew the side seams together. Match the back seam together and stitch from the base to the zip notch, then press the seams open. Fold and press in 1cm on either side of the two sleeve bias strips. Open one side of the bias strip, position across the base of the sleeves, then inish as for the neck binding. Trim away any excess binding, then neaten the underarm edges.

Cutting guide Front dress: cut one on the fold Back dress: cut one pair Sleeves: cut one pair Neck binding: cut a bias strip, 5cm x 55cm Sleeve binding: cut two bias strips, 5cm x 36cm 1.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

Sew a row of gathering stitches around the head of each sleeve, starting from the front notch and inishing at the back. Match, pin and stitch the underarm sleeve seams together, right sides facing, then turn the sleeves right sides out. Pull the gathering threads up slightly, then place each sleeve into the armholes.

Download and print the pattern from sewmag.co.uk, then follow the cutting guide. Neaten the shoulder seam edges on the front and back pieces. Match, pin and stitch together, right sides facing, then press the seams open. Fold and press in 1cm on either side of the neck bias strip. Open one side of the strip and position it around the neckline. Pin in place, then sew along the fold line.

Match the side and underarm seam of the sleeves together, then match the notch in the centre of the sleeve to the end of the shoulder seam. Adjust the gathers to it the armholes, then pin and stitch in place. Neaten the armhole seam allowance.

Fold the strip onto the wrong side of the neckline and position the remaining folded edge over the stitching line. Pin and edgestitch in place, sandwiching the raw edge of the neckline inside the bias binding; this process can also be completed by hand slip-stitching. Trim away any excess binding at the centre back edges, then neaten them and the side edges.

Stitch the concealed zip into the back opening using a regular zipper foot or a concealed one. Fold and press the seam allowance along the two sides of the back opening. Open out the seam allowance and, with right sides

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sew DRESSMAKING

Project exclusive to S8

-20

SIZ

sew!

facing, place the opened zip face down, matching the teeth to the crease line in the seam allowance and pin in place.

Thread the zip pull through to the right side at the top of the centre back seam and pull up to close. Stitch the top of the zip over the ends of the neck binding, fold under the ends of the zip and hand-sew in place. Overlock the base of the dress, then fold and machine-stitch a 1cm hem.

sew SHOPPER ************************

BIRCH FLORAL – NAVY Renowned for its gorgeous floral prints, Rifle Paper Co have turned its attention to fabric – and we can’t get enough! Our dressmaker chose the Birch Floral rayon in Navy. From £4.75 per quarter metre, thecraftymastermind.co.uk

BIRCH FLORAL – PERIWINKLE Looking for the same print in a lighter shade? The Crafty Mastermind has got you covered! Go for shade Periwinkle for a subtle nod to summer days. From £4.75 per quarter metre, thecraftymastermind.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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UPCYCLE YOUR JEANS WITH THIS

denim tote

Get started • Fabric: denim jeans; printed cotton • Leather, 4cm wide • Cotton cord, 8mm wide • Embellishments • Heavyweight card • Duct tape

Stitch an upcycled bag

Upcycling is more than just a trend, it’s a way to make the most of your garments and do your bit for the environment, too. That’s why Sew designer Corinne Bradd has put together this simple guide on how to use your old blues to create a sturdy tote bag! Making use of the larger sections of jeans, such as the waistband, legs and back piece, will give you enough material to make this accessory with ease.

Cut the waistband from the jeans as neatly as possible. Lay the jeans lat and trim a rectangle, 29cm x 33cm, around one back pocket, avoiding any thick seams. Remove the reinforced inner leg seams, leaving a 1.5cm excess on either side and save them to use as binding. From the remaining leg, cut another rectangle, 29cm x 33cm, and two pieces, 11cm x 29cm. Sew the two larger rectangles, right sides together, along the bottom edge, leaving a 1cm seam allowance. Open out and reinforce with topstitching, 5mm from the seam. Lay the joined fabric lat, face up. Take one smaller piece of denim and pin the centre of one short edge at a right angle to the seam, right sides together and matching up the raw edges. Stitch and fold to make a ‘T’ shape. Repeat for the other end of the seam to create a cross. Pin the arms of the cross, right sides together, to make a lat bottom bag, then stitch and turn right sides out. Cut stif card, 10cm x 26cm, and wrap it in duct tape for support. Slip this base into the bottom of the bag. To make the lining, create a second bag from cotton and leave it inside out. Slip the lining into the bag, making sure the corners are level. Pin and tack the top with the raw edges together. Join the saved inner leg seams end to end and, if necessary, make a fabric loop the same size as the top of the bag. Trim the excess thickness away from the joins to avoid a lumpy inish. Pin the loop to the outside edge of the bag, matching the raw edges, then stitch with a 1cm seam allowance to bind. Fold the binding loop up and over the top edge of the bag, tuck under 5mm and slip-stitch the edge of the binding to the inside of the bag.

Cut two 4cm wide strips of leather or suede, 38cm long. Shape the ends into semi circles before folding the strips in half and topstitching 3mm from the raw edges, starting and inishing 4cm from each end.

Thread a safety pin into a length of soft cotton cord and use it as a bodkin to pull the cord through the handles. Carefully trim the cord to the length of the stitching and glue to keep it secure and prevent it slipping out. 42

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Flatten the rounded ends of the handle and use a needle tool to pierce holes around the curve, 3mm in from the edge. Use these holes to pin the handles to each side of the bag and hand-sew with extrastrong thread.

sew gifts

tip! Turn to p30 for more denim tips from our experts!

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denim!

sew

SHOPPER ************************

MINT GREEN With its subtle interweaving of leaf patterns and geometric print, this cheery splash of cotton will make the perfect lining. ÂŁ19.95 per metre, gutermann@ stockistenquiries.co.uk ************************ thank you for shopping!

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Photographer Fanni Williams, publisher Quadrille (Hardie Grant)

Sewing with Tilly SEAMS ARE A BREEZE WITH OUR FAST OVERLOCKER FIXES These nifty machines are primarily used for finishing seams and hems on woven garments, and they’re fantastic at doing so – as long as you know how to use them. It’s important to take the time to adjust the settings so you can give the overlocker a little guidance when it comes to achieving those perfectly-balanced stitches. If you’ve done this, and that pesky joint still isn’t sitting quite right, then delve into Tilly’s tried, tested and trusted fixes for six common overlocker problems.

The loops from the right side are peeping out on the wrong side. This means that the thread is either too loose or that the lower looper is pulling the strand too tight. So, either decrease the lower looper tension dial or increase the upper one, making sure you sew a test swatch after each alteration.

When the finished seam is stretched, the stitches pop! If the needle thread breaks when the seam is pulled, then the thread tension is too tight. Loosen it a tad by turning the tension dial down, then test it on a swatch and free it more if necessary.

The seam appears stretched-out. Turn the diferential lever up to prevent the back teeth pulling the fabric out of the presser foot faster than it’s being pulled in. A stretched seam also indicates that the presser foot is clamping down too hard on the material, so turn the pressure dial down.

The seam looks gathered. This can be solved in a similar way to the stretched-out seam: simply turn the diferential feed lever down to stop the front teeth pulling the fabric under the presser foot so quickly. Alternatively, the foot might not be securely holding the material, so turn the dial up.

The thread snapped during sewing. First things irst, check that you’ve correctly prepared the machine; place the lower looper thread on top of the upper one, then loosen the thread tension dials so that it isn’t gripped as tightly when it goes through the machine.

The stitches are visible on the right side when the fabric is pulled. When you can see the straight needle stitches on the right side of the seam, it means that the needle tension is too loose. Turn the dial up gradually until they are no longer visible.

For patterns, workshops and more from Tilly, pay a visit to tillyandthebuttons.com 44

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“

We’re delighted to reveal our brand-new book Breaking the Pattern! Get to know the faces behind Finnish pattern brand, Named Clothing Words by Sophie Demetriades

n 2013, sisters Saara and Laura Huhta transformed their passion for design, sewing and fashion into the online shop, Named Clothing. Since then, the dynamic duo have created countless patterns which combine Scandinavian style with simplicity to encourage fashion lovers and sewers of all abilities to give dressmaking a go. To celebrate the company’s ifth year, the sisters have released their irst book Breaking the Pattern: A Modern Way to Sew. We chatted to the founders to ind out their inspiration behind the book and what stitchy tips and tricks we can expect to see inside…

What’s the main theme of your first book? “We wanted to write something which included pattern collections that are diferent to our previous ranges. We’d noticed that a lot of sewists are interested in pattern-hacking and customising, so we chose to incorporate this into the book by making the garments easy to modify and personalise. “The idea behind the title stemmed from the desire to create a range which has multiple customising possibilities, so ‘breaking the pattern’ seemed like the perfect phrase! Almost every design in the book comes with more than one variation, along with details which you can mix and match. In total, there are ten patterns but we have sewn 20 samples of each one – we’re sure you’ll be able to stitch plenty more! We’ve also added a chapter at the back which focuses on designing and altering techniques, so you can truly make the outits your own.”

Tell us all about your favourite projects. “Both of us really love the Solina jumpsuit, which can also be transformed into a dress and top with our patternhacking tips. It’s a very classy piece, with a beautiful shape. The Palo jeans are also super-fun to make and have a classic high-waist with a unique tapestry-like cut and quirky details.”

Founders of Named Clothing, Saara and Laura

Alterations can be daunting for beginners. Is it suitable for all? “Absolutely! The projects at the start are quite simple and the skill level gradually develops as you progress through the book.”

What makes this collection stand out? “Our ranges are geared towards creating mini capsule wardrobes, and we’ve always paid attention to making collections that are easy to wear and can be mixed and matched. For Breaking the Pattern, we have aimed to design pieces which are suitable for diferent occasions, look good together and have scope for as much outit variety as possible.”

The Solina jumpsuit from Breaking the Pattern

“A lot of sewists are interested in patternhacking and customising, so we wanted to incorporate this into the book” 45

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Turn the page for the Palo jeans project...

Add to your capsule collection with the Get started • Fabric, 2m (150cm) • Fusible interfacing, heavyweight • Concealed zip, 12in

Sizes 10-24* *For the sizing chart, visit sewmag.co.uk

Cutting guide

Get easy everyday style with these patch jeans! Not only are they fun to make, they’re also eco-friendly, as you can use second-hand denim to create them. The high-waisted, cropped length provides a classic look, and the unusual cut of the back yoke and front pockets adds a touch of originality. For this make, you’ll have the chance to practise inserting a fly front zip, patch pockets and a waistband.

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SI Z

ES 10-24

Right front: cut one from main fabric, cut zip opening along line one Left front: cut one from main fabric, cut zip opening along line two Front side: cut two from main fabric Front leg: cut two from main fabric Back: cut two from main fabric Yoke: cut two from main fabric Inner back leg: cut two from main fabric Outer back leg: cut two from main fabric Outer waistband: cut one from main fabric and one from interfacing, (traced side of pattern facing up) Inner waistband: cut one from main fabric, (traced side of pattern facing down) Belt loop panel: cut one from main fabric, cut along line 3 Fly shield: cut one from main fabric Pocket facing: cut two from main fabric Back pocket: cut two from main fabric Outer pocket bag: cut two Inner pocket bag: cut two

PALO JEANS

stitch DENIM JEANS

Creating the darts and pockets

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk, then cut out the pieces according to the cutting guide. Trace the back waist darts and mark the placements for the back pockets, buttons and buttonholes. Interface the outer waistband and the seam allowance of the right fly extension zip with 1cm wide interfacing, and the left one with 3.5cm wide. Finish the edges of the bottom of the pocket facing, top

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of the front leg, bottom and top of the back, and the straight centre of the back legs.

Place the wrong side of the pocket facing on top of the right side of the inner pocket bag. Sew along the curved bottom edge, then tack the facing and inner pocket bag together along the upper and side edges. With right sides together, pin each outer pocket bag to a front side along the pocket opening, and sew. Finish with one or two stitches diagonally at the corners.

On each piece, clip into the end point of the opening at the notch on the side seam, then trim the seam allowances at the corner and turn right sides out. Press carefully so that the side seam allowances fold outwards at the bottom edge of the pocket opening. Topstitch each pocket opening twice, beginning close to edge, then again about 7mm away from the previous sewing.

edge, then inish the raw edges. Press the 1cm seam allowances of the pocket edges to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the back piece according to the placement marks and stitch in place close to the edge, then pivot at the pocket opening and sew a second line of topstitching about 7mm away from the previous line.

Sewing the legs

Sew the inner and outer back leg together and press the seam allowances open. Finish the raw upper edge. Stitch the back leg to the back and press the seam allowances open. Sew the in-seams, inish the allowances and press towards the front. Topstitch close to the inseam and sew the sides.

Place the inner and outer pocket bags right sides facing, and pin the front side and pocket facing together, matching the notches. Sew the pocket bags together at the bottom and inish the seam allowance. Tack the front side, pocket facing and pocket bags together at the sides. Stitch the front and the front side together, matching the notches. Finish the seam allowances and press towards the front piece, inishing the raw edges. Stitch the front leg to the front pieces and press the seam allowances open. Sew the yokes to the back pieces, leaving 1cm unsewn on the side. Press the seam allowances towards the yoke and topstitch twice.

Stitch the waist darts by folding the front and back pieces right sides together, aligning the traced lines and making sure that the apex is positioned on the fold. Pin the dart closed and sew along the line, a few stitches beyond the apex. Tie of the threads with a few knots and press the darts towards the centre front and back. Finish the seam allowances, press towards the sides and topstitch close to the dart.

Hem the pocket openings by pressing 1cm under the edge to the wrong side, then another 1cm. Sew the hem close to the open

Finish the seam allowances and press them towards the back, then topstitch the side seams from the waist to the pocket bag end. Finish the raw crotch edge of the right leg and both sides of the zip opening. Sew the crotch seam with one leg right side out and the other wrong side out.

With right sides together and the notches and crotch seams aligned, place the legs one inside the other. Sew with a lat felled seam so that the wider 1.5cm seam allowance is on the inished right leg, and the narrower 5mm one is on the raw left leg. Stitch 1cm beyond the ly extension at the front, then press the seam allowances to the left.

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leaf...

Continued over

Making the fly zip

Press the right fly extension 1cm to the wrong side. Pin and stitch the zip to the folded fly extension so that it’s positioned 1.5cm below the waist. Press the 3.5cm seam allowances of the left fly extension to the wrong side at the centre front notch and topstitch close to the edge. Close the zip and pin with the centre front notches against each other.

get the

book

Pin the zip to the seam allowances of the left fly extension so that it lies flat, and sew. Stitch the bottom edge of the fly shield, trim the seam allowances at the corner, and turn it right side out. Press and finish the open edges. Sew the finished edge of the fly shield to the seam allowances on the right fly extension.

Mark a stitching line in chalk on the front of the jeans, 3cm away from the centre front edge on the left side of the opening; the line should curve towards the centre front seam at the end of the fly opening. Topstitch along the line, making sure the fly shield is folded out of the way. Fold the fly shield back in place, and secure it from the right side of the garment with a bar tack at the curved spot of the topstitching.

For more gorgeous makes from Named Clothing, check out Breaking the Pattern: A Modern Way to Sew by Saara and Laura Huhta, (£25, Quadrille). Photography © Arto Markkanen.

Stitching the waistband and buttonholes

Starting from the waist at the back, sew to the end of the fly opening, pivot and topstitch a second line 7mm away from the first, finishing at the back waist. To create a belt loop, finish one of the long, raw edges of the panel, then fold the piece into three layers, leaving the finished edge on top, then stitch closed along both sides. Make five loops from the panel, then press one end of the loop to the wrong side by 1cm, then tack on the waist positioning one on the centre back seam, two on the back waist darts and two on the front seams.

Matching the notches, sew the outer waistband to the waist and press the seam allowances towards the waistband. Press the 1cm seam allowance of the bottom edge of the inner waistband to the wrong side. Sew the inner and outer waistband together at the upper edge and the ends, sewing one or two stitches diagonally at the corners.

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Cut notches into the seam allowances at the corners, turn the waistband right side out and press. Pin or hand-tack the bottom edge of the inner waistband on top of the seam on the wrong side, then topstitch the bottom edge on the right side, catching the opening in the sewing. Topstitch the ends and the upper edge of the waistband. Sew the belt loops in place on the upper edge of the waistband with bar tacks or straight stitch. Sew the bottom edges below the waistband in the same way.

Stitch a horizontal buttonhole on the left end of the waistband and diagonal ones on the pocket openings on the front sides. Carefully fasten the buttons at the right end of the waistband and on the pocket facings. Gently fringe the leg openings by unravelling the weft threads by 2cm. Alternatively, hem them by pressing under the edges to the wrong side by 1cm, then pressing under another 1cm and stitching. After a final press, you’re finished!

Download your digital patterns in

4 EASY STEPS! Carry your belongings in style with these FREE bag patterns!

FIRST, LOG IN OR SIGN UP

...to the Sew website at sewmag.co.uk for FREE. Find the tab circled at the top.

NEXT, SEARCH FOR A GARMENT

...by title, according to the project names opposite. Click on the search tab.

CLICK THE DOWNLOAD TEMPLATE BUTTON

BOWLING BAG

KISSABLE CLUTCH

Stitch this grab-and-go number that’s the ideal size for your daily essentials.

Stow away all of your make-up products in this fun zipped lips purse.

...which you will ind under the main image.

SAVE THE PATTERN PDF

...by right clicking to save on your computer, then print out (DON’ T it to the page!) 100 Aug Issue 119 January 2019

JUST PRINT OUT THE PAGE OR PAGES YOU NEED FROM YOUR PRINT MENU In your print menu, under Size options, be sure to select to print ‘Actual Size’, instead of ‘Fit to Page’

You can also locate the templates for this issue and all of our previous issues at sewmag.co.uk/templates ‘TILING’ DIGITAL PATTERNS Note that most digital patterns need to be ‘tiled’. This involves placing the A4 printouts in the correct order to form the pattern as indicated – so get some sticky tape ready to join the sheets!

BUCKET STYLE

REVERSIBLE TOTE

Transform fabric scraps into a versatile patchwork design with leather handles.

This handy foldaway is completely reversible and can be stowed inside your handbag.

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CREATE AND CRAFT SPECIAL

LOOK

£7!

FAT QUARTER FABRIC OFFER

This unmissable fat quarter ofer on Create and Craft’s Paddington Bear range is sure to leave you feeling nostalgic! The six-piece collection includes prints which feature the iconic character, and you can get your hands on a pack for just £7 (RRP £12.99)! Every Sew reader can bag themselves this bargain simply by visiting createandcraft.com/sewmag or calling 0330 041 5683 and quoting the discount code 461322.

Six pints to choose from!

FREE P&P!

5 Fabulous Reasons to Treat Yourself

Make our Paddington projects over the page

l Stitch with six diferent designs l Great for quilting, patchwork and

appliqué projects l Can be cut using steel dies l Made from 100% cotton which

is durable and soft l It’s the perfect gift for little stitchers, too!

To claim your discounted fat quarters, visit createandcraft.com/sewmag, or call 0330 041 5683 and quote the code 461322. The ofer is valid on orders placed with Create and Craft between 00:01 BST on 13th December and 23:59 BST on 10th January 2019. This ofer will expire on 10th January 2019 at 23:59. The ofer is available to all Create and Craft customers. The ofer can be purchased via the Create and Craft website createandcraft.com, on the mobile app, the IVR and by phone. Ideal Shopping Direct Limited reserves the right from time to time and at any time to cancel, discontinue, temporarily or permanently, or amend the promotion or these rules, with or without prior notice (including, without limitation, in the case of anticipated, suspected or actual fraud).

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Get started • Fabric: Paddington Bear fat quarters; plain cotton • Beeswax • Anti-snag hook and loop • Key fob clamp 0.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

CREATE QUICK AND EASY MAKES WITH

Paddington Bear Fat Quarters

Sew sandwich wraps

Cut 25cm squares of patterned and plain fabric. Grate beeswax onto the plain cotton, cover with greaseproof paper and iron to melt the wax evenly onto the fabric. Sew the two squares right sides together around all four edges with a 5mm seam allowance, leaving a 5cm gap in one side. Turn the squares right sides out and topstitch the edges, folding in the raw edges and closing the gap as you do so. Fold in the corners to the centre to make an envelope and inger press the creases. Cut four pieces of an anti-snag hook and loop. Pin and topstitch two pieces to the inside of the wrap on the adjacent corners. Sew the others onto the outside of the wrap on the remaining corners so that the sides can be folded in around the sandwich before the top and bottom are fastened.

2 3

nel for a Head over to youtube.com/TheCraftsChan ax beesw with ing video tutorial on work

Create luggage tags

Cut two pieces of fabric, 9cm x 13cm, and place right sides together. With a pencil, draw a rectangle, 4.5cm x 7cm, in the lower centre of the fabric and topstitch around the line. Cut out the centre of the rectangle, clip the corners and turn right sides out through the hole. Press and topstitch around the aperture. Cut two more pieces of fabric the same size to make the back of the tag and place onto the front pieces. Use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut of the top corners to make a tag. Stitch the left-hand long side of the back, right sides together, then turn out

2 51

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and topstitch. Fold in the long left-hand edge of the front pieces and topstitch. Place the front and back right sides together and sew around the remaining edges. Trim the seam allowance to 2mm, turn out and topstitch, sewing into the irst and last 1cm of the open edge. Fix a key fob clamp to the top of the tag. Fold a 4cm wide strip of fabric in half, then sew down the long edge and across the ends, leaving a 5cm gap in the centre. Turn out and press before slip-stitching the gap. Use the strap to tie the luggage tag onto your case.

UPCYCLE YOUR JEANS WITH AN

oesized patch Repairing a hole in a garment is not just a quick fix, it's also an opportunity to make a big design decision! In this project, your favourite fabric scrap will take centre stage as the step-by-step photos teach you how to sew a knee patch to hide any tears and frayed edges. How's that for DIY sewing?

Get started • Fabric scrap • Sashiko thread • Sashiko needles • Washable fabric marker

Sew a knee patch

Lay the garment you want to repair lat on a surface. Measure the tear and add 2.5cm to all sides; for example, if the hole is 2.5cm wide, cut a patch that is 7.5cm. Turn the edges of the patch under by 6mm, then press and mitre the corners.

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denim!

Centre the piece over the damaged area and pin in place, right sides facing up, with the edges tucked under. Using a fabric marker, draw straight lines around the perimeter of the patch – this will ensure that the stitching is even and will catch the folded edges.

get the

book

Photography by Karen Pearson.

Insert a needle from the underside of the garment, keeping the knot hidden underneath. Sew with a running stitch along the drawn lines until all under edges and corners are secure, then tie of the thread at the garment underside.

For more handy techniques to stitch, patch and repair your favourite makes, check out Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh (£18.99, abramsbooks.com). 52

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“I need to be more organised” Thanks to international artist Claire Ishino and eco-friendly stationery brand Earth Greetings, staying organised is about to be a whole lot easier! The pair have collaborated to create this vibrant diary that'll help you keep track of everything from outings to workshops, plus there's a monthly 'goals' section for planning upcoming sewing projects. What's more, it's printed with vegetable-based ink and uses 100% post-consumer waste paper, so you'll be doing your bit for the environment, too!

Mark our words, 2019 will be the year to start Christmas projects before December! £22.20, earthgreetings.com-au

My fabric stash might still be a mess, but at least I know what garment I'm stitching next month!

“It would be a dream come true to win DOTY!” As the saying goes: you have to be in it to win it! The competition is joined by dazzling new judges, there's over £4,000 worth of goodies to be won, and two free Simplicity patterns for everyone who enters. Oh, and you could be crowned Sew's Dressmaker of the Year – there's no better way to celebrate 2019!

5 stitchy

resolutions you'll easily keep! Well hello, good intentions, we meet again! Sure, we said in 2018 that we would buy less fabric (yeah right!) and organise the sewing room (maybe next year!), but this January, we’re doing things diferently. We’ve rounded up ive ways to ignite your crafting mojo, release life’s stresses and make you one happy sewer. So welcome, 2019 – we have a feeling this will be our most creative year yet!

One of the five easyto-enter categories is Children's. Head over to sewmag.co.uk/ dressmakeroftheyear to submit your make!

Turn to p82 to win a tube!

"I'D LOVE TO JOIN A SEWING COMMUNITY" Whether you're a home-bird or someone who likes to get out-and-about, there's plenty of ways to join a stitchy group! The first is workshops; not only are they a fantastic place to get those creative juices flowing and to meet new friends, but the excitement of learning new skills will fuel your crafty projects, and tutors will be on hand to help you along. If you fancy staying in, why not join an online sewing circle? You don't have to be tech-savvy to get involved on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram at @sewhq, and you can participate by sharing your stitchy creations!

“I want to clear out my fabric stash”

Using up your left-overs can be a hassle, that's why YouTube sensation, The Crafts Channel specialises in stash-busting projects! Its step-by-step video tutorials cover a whole host of stitchy ideas, such as reusable beeswax wraps, DIY cutlery pouches and no-waste bunting - what will you make first?

"I WANT TO HAVE MORE ME TIME"

As the bustling Christmas period draws to a close, it's important to take some time for yourself. When life gets hectic, concentrating on a pattern and watching a garment come to life is a fantastic remedy; not only are you creating something beautiful, but your mind clears to focus on the simple joy of sewing! Embroidery is particularly good for this as it's oh-so soothing and let's your hands work on repetitive, meditative stitches in peace and quiet... You know, before the family come home and yell 'when will dinner be ready?' 53

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Cosy up on the sofa whilst stitching this bunting and remember to show us when you've finished!

REV UP YOUR SEWING SKILLS WITH

Get started • Denim shirt • Embroidery thread, six strands: white, brown, yellow, green, red, orange, black • Erasable pen • Embroidery needle • Embroidery hoop • Small silver sequins

Size Custom-sized

Susie Johns’ CAR SHIRT

Although buttonhole stitch is generally used to create – as the name would suggest – hand-sewn buttonholes, it can be far more versatile than that. Get creative on a denim basic and use it for edging and outlining shapes, like these little cars, against a background of trees, hedges and clouds.

Project exclusive to

Embroider a child’s shirt

Download and print the template at sewmag.co.uk. Transfer the motif to the back yoke of the shirt using an erasable pen, so that the lines can be removed after the embroidery has been inished. Place a section of the shirt into a hoop and thread an embroidery needle with two strands of thread. Following the lines that you have drawn, outline all of the shapes with buttonhole stitch, using the picture of the inished shirt as a guide, or using your own choice of colours. The edges of the road can be embroidered in long and short buttonhole stitch: to do this, alternate long and short stitches. Move the hoop to a diferent section as you complete each area of the design. Once you’ve inished, remove the hoop. Sew a small sequin to the centre of each wheel to represent a hub cap, then press the shirt on the wrong side.

sew!

2 3

“Embroidery is a great way to add a personal touch to a plain garment. Why not sketch out your own designs and play with stitches on scrap fabric?”

The motif can be adapted to fit any shirt – just scale up the template to suit

Susie Johns, Sew designer

Buttonhole Stitch

Push the needle up through the fabric on the outline, then down a stitch length below. Some people ind it easier to work the stitch from right to left, others from left to right; either way is ine.

Bring it back out on the top line, close to where it irst came out. This creates a small loop at the top. Take the needle up through the loop and pull to tighten; the vertical threads are now held in place by a small horizontal bar. 54

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Continue in this way along the length of the marked line. You can choose the height of the stitch as you insert the needle down into the fabric shape, and you can keep all the stitches the same length, or vary them.

sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

weâ?¤

denim!

sewmag.co.uk

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This amazing swing dress is not only quick, but it’s a flattering and easy make that will be sure to impress! Included in your set is all the fabric you will need to make dress A or B up to size 20. plus we are throwing in a complimentary can of adhesive spray as seen in the demo video, link below.

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GROW YOUR EMBROIDERY SKILLS WITH A BEAUTIFUL

bouquet hoop

Get started • Embroidery hoop, 15cm • Printed fabric, 25cm square • White felt, 18cm square • Hoop binding, 2cm x 45cm • Embroidery thread: light green, dark green, aqua, teal, petrol blue, peach, pink, white, variegated pink and white • All-purpose glue

If you can’t wait for warm spring months and the scent of blooming buds, then why not bring a loral touch inside your home instead? This simple hoop by Sedef Imer uses a variety of diferent embroidery stitches, from Lazy Daisy to French knots, to create a luscious pastel bouquet that will have you dreaming of sunshine days.

Embroider a floral hoop

Download and print the template from sewmag.co.uk. Using a window or lightbox, trace the embroidery pattern onto the centre of printed fabric. Stretch onto a hoop and embroider the pattern as follows. Backstitch the small leaves in three strands of light green, then straight stitch the centres in three strands of white. For the large leaves, ishbone stitch in four strands of dark green and randomly straight stitch highlights in light green. Backstitch the stems in four strands of light green. Use a rosette stitch in variegated pink and white for the rose, inishing with French knots in three strands of white. Outline the centre lower with split stitch in three strands of aqua. Fill in with long and short stitches in aqua, petrol blue and two strands of teal. Complete one petal at a time, sewing the centre stitch irst, then working right to left. Finish with three-strand French knots in peach. Work the pink lower outline in splitstitch with three strands of peach. Fill with long and short stitches in peach and two strands of white, then inish with French knots in four strands of pink. For the four leaf clovers, outline with splitstitch in three strands of petrol blue, ill with two strands of satin stitch and inish with French knots in four strands of peach. Outline the tulips with splitstitch in three strands of pink, ill with two strands of peach in satin stitch, then French knots in three strands of white. Complete the lazy daisy petals in three strands of aqua and French knots in three strands of peach. Remove the embroidery from the hoop to bind the outer hoop with fabric.

Place a small amount of glue on the inside edge of the hoop, just underneath the screw. Press the edge of the irst binding strip onto the glue to secure, then start wrapping the strip around the hoop at regular intervals. When you come to the end of strip, trim it so that the raw edge lies on the inside of the hoop and ix down.

To start the next strip, add a little more glue to the inside edge, and start wrapping again. Continue in this manner until the whole hoop is covered, then snip of any frayed threads. Place the inner embroidery hoop in the middle of the white felt, trace around the outside, then cut the white felt circle out along the line.

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Place the embroidery back into the hoop and stretch. Trim excess fabric to leave a 5cm circular allowance all the way around at the back. Cut thread longer than the circumference of the hoop, knot at one end, and make regular stitches of the same length all the way around near the edge of the fabric. Tighten the thread to gather the fabric, then knot and trim.

sew

Get the

free template download

BOOK

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Bring a touch of the Japanese design aesthetic to your abode with Zakka Home by Sedef Imer. Inside, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find a collection of 19 projects that combine usefulness with beauty and style. ÂŁ9.99, amazon.co.uk

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sew PROMOTION

The team’s top picks for January

Wish Lis t

New year, new goodies! For us stitchers, January brings all sorts of crafting challenges – there’s garments to be finished, jeans that need repairing and 2019 just has to be the year we finally create that capsule wardrobe. So, whether you’re a dressmaking beginner or already a keen stitcher, these picks are must-haves for your sewing stash!

Blu e Hu es

We’re thrilled to introduce you to the brand-new Threaders Tokyo Blue fabric collection! These six designs are guaranteed to add a modern touch to a range of projects, such as home décor, patchwork bags and so much more! From £4.99 per fat quarter, crafterscompanion.co.uk

Fresh start

It’s never too late to pick up a new hobby, and these My First Craft kits are the perfect place to start! They’re ideal for giving to loved ones of all ages, so you can watch their passion grow for sewing, knitting and crochet. Each set contains all of the essential materials and equipment you need – you’ll be crafting up a storm in no time! £8.99, aldi.co.uk

SHOP

of the month

Modern classic

Timeless prints

Introducing the Wattle skirt! Stitch this garment in linen and layer it up for the cooler months with chunky knits and boots. The unique pattern features a hidden closure, three skirt options, slash pockets and two length variations – what more could you ask for in a pattern? From £11, megannielsen.com

Sew Creative in Norwich ofers a vast array of sewing treats, including 100% cotton fabrics for patchwork and quilting, plus Bernina, Janome, Husqvarna, and Pfaf sewing machines. Visit sewcreative.co.uk for more!

Alice Caroline is excited to launch two brand-new Liberty London ranges, one of which being the 40th Anniversary Classics Collection. These prints are inspired by traditional Liberty designs, such as Strawberry Thief and Edenham, and have been reinvented in vibrant colourways. Available on alicecaroline.com from January 1st 2019

Wardrob e sta ples

Easy peasy

New year, new clothes! Lisa Comfort’s fantastic eBook, My Capsule Wardrobe: Work to Weekend provides you with clear instructions and step-by-step photographs to create versatile garments, such as an essential jersey top, stylish jumpsuit, a must-have skirt and classic coat – perfect for all day, every day! £25, sewoverit.co.uk

Attention pet lovers, this pick is for you! Following the success of Bear in the Hood’s teepee pattern, the store was inspired to design an equally simple make for your cuddly cats and pampered pooches! This is a great project for all-level sewers and is a fantastic addition to any room. £7.50, bearinthehood.co.uk

Tell us your favourite products by emailing editorial@sewmag.co.uk 60

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SPONSORED BY

Debbie Shore “My mum was a dressmaker, so she taught me to sew clothes for my dolls as a child, and for myself as I got older. Like so many people, life took over. I started working as a TV presenter in the late 70s, and although sewing was still a hobby it wasn’t such a big part of my life. However, in 2004 I started working for the shopping channel Ideal World, which happened to sell sewing machines, so I volunteered to demonstrate them and fell in love all over again! “Now I sew full-time, and have released 18 stitching books with four more on the way! I’ve also recently started a subscription website called Half Yard Sewing Club in association with my publisher, Search Press. In between books and the club, I also have a YouTube channel and still pop up on shopping TV occasionally, so I’m kept pretty busy! “I was thrilled to be picked as a judge for Dressmaker of the Year! I can’t wait to see all of

Portia’s latest refashioned piece

Portia at last year’s DOTY

A handy tool bag project from Debbie the entries – I’m sure they’ll ill me with inspiration! I’m most looking forward to seeing the designs and interpretations of patterns, fabric and colour, and of course, spending time with like-minded people!”

Win!

The overall winner will receive:

★ Brother Innov-is F420 sewing machine Prizes! ★ One night’s spa break with dinner ★ Mettler 96-piece thread collection ★ £100 Hobbycraft voucher ★ Pair of ICHF tickets to a Creative Craft show ★ Roll of Rose & Hubbard fabric

£4,000+

Each category winner will get their hands on the following treats:

Portia Lawrie “As a mum of one, I it my sewing-related escapades in and around home life by having a craft space in the shed at the bottom of the garden! I’ve been sewing since 2010 and in that time, I’ve created my blog, Makery, and have founded The Refashioners competition. “What do I love most about sewing? Creativity, learning and the challenge! It gives us the ability to write our own style rules and not be a slave to trends, plus it’s more sustainable and massively therapeutic. “I launched a competition called The Refashioners in 2011. It’s an online challenge

for the global sewing community which aims to encourage people to see upcycling in a new light and notice the potential in old garments – as stitchers we have the skills to breathe life and longevity into them. “When I won Dressmaker of the Year in 2017, it was a complete and utter surprise and obviously very gratifying. Honestly, I only set out to ly the lag for refashioned garments, never in a million years did I expect to win the whole thing! “Obviously, this year I want to see more refashioned entries, which showcase the same care and attention one might apply to the most expensive of-the-shelf fabric. And of course, creativity and individuality always loat my boat – unexpected little details can really elevate a make. “Seriously, what have you got to lose? I know it’s hard to put yourself out there sometimes and you can be hyper-critical of your own work, but odds are it’s way better than you give yourself credit. So shut down that inner critic, get out there and enter!” 63

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★ Brother Innov-is A50 sewing machine ★ Pair of ICHF tickets to a Creative Craft show ★ £100 Hobbycraft voucher ★ Roll of Rose & Hubbard fabric

Livia Bedding Collection, £168, johnlewis.com

This month I’m getting ready for a trip to Hong Kong

I regularly find quilting designs and décor ideas based on what I see in the home department

Start writing your 2019 must-sew list in this Doves A6 Lined Notebook, £1.95, rexlondon.com

At home with... © Photographed by Rachel Whiting.

STUART HILLARD Pack up a suitcase! Our columnist goes global in the search for inspiration I’ve never been one to let the grass grow under my feet; perhaps it stems from so many years of being self-employed, but I always like to have the next project lined up way before the last one is completed. Does that sound familiar? I know so many crafters who have a number of projects on the go and if they haven’t bought the supplies for their next make, then they’re certainly writing the shopping list in their head and working out the measurements! I know I’m in a good place when inspiration is coming thick and fast; we all complain about having too many ideas and not enough time but I’d much rather be in that position than feeling uninspired and stuck in the middle of a crafting desert. So many things energise my work and, for me, it’s important to keep open eyes and an open mind at all times. As busy as I am, I try to take a minute to smell the roses and check out their colours, forms and shapes. We are all surrounded by so many things which might spark a new train of thought: a wallpaper swatch, an iron railing, the colour of leaves on the pavement or a bunch of balloons. Keeping a notebook and camera handy is a great way to ensure those ideas are not forgotten but don’t let them languish. Gathering the stimulus is important but so is printing those pictures, creating mood boards and sketching when you get home.

CREATIVE SOURCES I’m not a massive fan of shopping, largely due to the disparity between what I want to wear and what the high street retailers want to put me in – thank goodness for my sewing machine and a bunch of great patterns! But I do enjoy looking through interior design shops and the home section of department stores. I regularly find quilting designs, home décor ideas and new directions based on what I see and of course, there are certain shops worth visiting just to see how the visual merchandiser has dressed a

“I always like to have the next project lined up way before the last one is completed” window – one small detail could inspire a whole month’s work, so give it a try. Talking of new inspirations, I have been working hard on more fabric ranges for this year with The Craft Cotton Company. Rainbow Etchings launches very soon and we will be selling my Christmas 2019 range to shops and retailers later this month at the Stitches trade show in Birmingham. It’s a wonderful show which gives me a great opportunity to see what’s hot in the world of sewing, and to meet up with friends and swap stories. I know it seems crazy: the baubles are barely packed from last Christmas and here I am

Our Percy the Penguin mascot has been made from Stuart’s brand-new Kimono fabric range (p69)

talking about the next one, but that’s the way our industry works, and at least it means I’ll get all my holiday sewing done nice and early. I don’t want to give too much away at this stage but let’s just say my Christmas range for this year is sweet – very, very sweet! ON THE ROAD This month I’m also getting ready for a trip to Hong Kong and Australia. I never tire of Hong Kong, it’s a fast and furious place and I don’t think I’ve ever been anywhere that has more contrast at every turn. High fashion and being on trend is everything essential on Hong Kong Island; everywhere you look there are labels, iconic brands and queues of people lining up outside the boutiques waiting to part with their dollars. Skip across the water to Kowloon and the tourist markets are filled with every Chinese souvenir you can think of, then further north there are the fabulous trade markets and sourcing areas where every high street brand goes looking for buckles, zips, buttons and trims, plus enough fabric to fill your sewing room a hundred times over! I always come back with a suitcase full of stuff and a head packed with ideas. Wherever you go, whatever you do this month, I hope you see the inspiration that is all around you and get ready to make 2019 your craftiest year yet!

Stuart x

You can check in with Stuart on createandcraft.com, channels Virgin 748, Freeview 23, Freesat 813 and Sky 683, or visit @stuarthillardsews on Instagram 64

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Confessions of a sewing addict Corinne decides to break her hoarding habits for the new year with some eco resolutions

“I’m going to complete all of my unfinished projects before I start something new, then I’m going to do just one at a time!” Over the last year, I’ve become very conscious of how much stuff I waste in my home. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not a huge consumer and I rarely buy new things or just get rid of stuf because I fancy a change – the reality is that I struggle to ill a black sack every week and my recycling boxes are always only ever half full. I’m one of those people who smooths out loads of Tunnock’s teacake wrappers because they’ve seen a brilliant Andy Warhol inspired picture made with them on Pinterest! Five years later, the wrappers are still in a drawer and the tea cakes are still on my hips… I’m the same with fabric; I’ve got boxes of random sample squares that are always the wrong size, weight and/ or colour to do something with, but never useless enough to get rid of – they’ll come in handy one day I hope! I’ve got

more patterned paper in my house than your average craft store, and several vintage suitcases rammed full of yarn, ribbon and second-hand cotton sheets. Storage has become a bit of an issue, so piles of fat quarters are now an integral part of my décor. The problem with being creative is that it’s addictive, and can never be conined to just one type of craft. Seriously, even if you asked me if I had something obscure, then I’m sure I’d be able to ind you three of them in diferent colours and sizes! Gathering all this stuf around me might be comforting, but it’s counterproductive – I spend more time searching through boxes than I do making stuf with what I’ve found! It’s getting to the point now where I really do need to do something about it, and when better to begin than in the new year? So, I’m resolving to complete all

Waste not, want not!

of my uninished items before I start something new, then I’m going to try and just do one project at a time instead of the usual crafting chaos which ensues when I see something pretty that ires my imagination. I’ve made a start on trying to get into the habit of keeping a large, reusable shopping bag in the hallway. Every time I come across half a sheet of patterned paper, the last knockings of a ball of yarn or a three-inch scrap of braid, I pop it in the bag. Once it’s full I’ll give it to my niece and she can take it to work at the local nursery so they’ll have an endless supply of collage material and, hopefully, I’ll have a bit more space! IF LIKE CORINNE, YOUR RESOLUTION IS TO TIDY UP YOUR CRAFT SPACE, THEN START WITH THIS PRETTY STORAGE BAG, SEWMAG.CO.UK

HEAD OVER TO YOUTUBE.COM/ USER/THECRAFTSCHANNEL TO MAKE CORINNE’S REUSABLE BEESWAX WRAPS

GET OFF TO A GREAT START IN THE NEW YEAR AND ORGANISE YOUR NEXT SEWING PROJECTS IN THIS PRETTY JOURNAL, £17, NOTONTHEHIGHSTREET.COM

TIDY UP YOUR STITCHING ESSENTIALS AND ADD SOME FUN TO YOUR CRAFT ROOM WITH THIS CUTE PIGGY PINCUSHION, SEWMAG.CO.UK

SEE CORINNE IN ACTION AT YOUTUBE.COM/THECRAFTSCHANNEL 66

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sew sewhome gifts

FOUR WAYS WITH

Stuart Hillard’s Kimono Collection Get started • Fabric: Kimono range; plain coloured cotton; mesh • Buttons • Quilt wadding • Fibre illing • Hook and loop • Zip, 20cm

Kickstart the new year with some project inspiration! Sew designer Corinne Bradd has created four wonderful makes from Stuart Hillard’s latest Kimono fabric collection. This beautiful range blends oriental-inspired designs with cool blue and white tones. Here it’s been used to make a handy tool pouch for all of your stitching essentials, cute fish decs, a comfy appliqué cushion, and of course, this month’s mascot – Percy the Penguin!

Projects exclusive to

sew!

To purchase Stuart Hillard’s Kimono range, visit ladysewandsew.co.uk 67

sewmag.co.uk

❀

Add a touch of colour to your home with this quick and easy pillow

Create an appliqué cushion

Sew a tool pouch

Cut two panels of printed fabric and wadding, 21cm x 35cm. For the zipped mesh pocket, cut two pieces of cotton, 4.5cm x 21cm, and mesh, 8cm x 21cm. Sew the cotton strips to each side of the zip. Fold under the raw edge of one strip, then fold in half lengthways and topstitch close to the original seam. Topstitch the mesh to the bottom edge of this strip with two parallel lines of sewing, then topstitch the original seam of the other fabric strip. Tack the bottom of the mesh panel to the bottom of the lining, smooth out the zipped pocket, fold under 5mm along the top edge and topstitch to the lining. Cut mesh, 9.5cm x 14cm, then cut a 4cm wide strip of fabric and use this to bind the two short edges and one long edge of the mesh. Line the remaining raw mesh edge up to the side of the lining, 2mm from the top of the zipped pocket. Tack along the raw edge and topstitch the two short edges. Cut cotton, 12cm x 14cm, for the pocket. Double hem the top short edge and topstitch. Fold under 5mm on the remaining edges and pin. Place the pocket next to the open mesh one and open out the hem at the side of

2 3

Download and print the template from sewmag. co.uk, then cut out 11 fan sections from patterned and plain fabric. Fold each in half lengthways, right sides together, and sew across the longer end. Open and push the stitched end right sides out to make a point. Sew all of the fan sections together on the long edges to make a semi circle and press. Pin to plain cotton, 27cm x 45cm, lining up the bottom straight edges. Topstitch the fan in place with coordinating thread. Cut two cushion centre spots and sew together on the curved edge. Clip the curve and turn right sides out. Pin and slip-stitch the spot over the raw centre edges of the fan,

the lining. Tack before topstitching the remaining two sides. To make the cotton pocket strip, cut fabric 13cm x 21cm, and fold in half lengthways, right sides out. Topstitch the folded edge, and sew a narrow strip of the hook and loop to the bottom, 5mm from the edge. Line up the raw edges of the panel to the remaining end of the lining and tack. Topstitch from the folded edge of the panel down to the tacked edge to divide the strip into smaller pockets. Press the pocket lining before pinning onto the wadding and main fabric. Fold the wallet at the top of the zipped mesh pocket and fold the divided pocket end down over it to check the orientation of the main fabric and the position of the hook and loop strip. Mark where the ends of the fastening strip are on the main material, then unpin that section and sew a matching strip of fastener to the main fabric. Re-pin and zig zag stitch around the edge. Cut several fabric strips, 3cm wide, and join end to end to make a continuous strip. Bind the edges of the wallet using a 5mm seam allowance, then mitre the corners and slip-stitch the binding to the main fabric.

lining the straight edge up with the bottom of the panel. Place the appliqué panel onto another rectangle of plain fabric and sew around the edges, leaving a 10cm gap in one side. Turn right sides out and stuf with ibre illing. Fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch closed.

sew

❀

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

“‘My latest fabic range, Kimono is out and e’e not only created a beautiful range of coton pints for quilts, crafts and home décor, e’e also included the designs on jesey for dresmaking!”

Stuart Hillard, sew columnist 68

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❀

sew home e our mascot! Thanks to Tracy Drury for helping us nam ds! Help us with threa ira Made of set a – prize your We hope you enjoy ewhq om/s ook.c faceb suggestions for next month’s toy at

sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

Make fish decorations

Download, print and cut out the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Pair up the in pieces and sew together, leaving a gap in the slanted straight edge. Clip the corners and turn right sides out. Tack a in to the centre front of each body piece, matching the raw edges. Sew one head to each end of the body pieces, incorporating the ins as you do so. Pair up the tails and pin onto wadding. Sew around the edges, leaving the straight section open. Trim the wadding close to seam, clip the curves and turn out.

Stitch Percy the Penguin

Sandwich the tail in between the short ends of the body pieces and sew down the straight edge. Stitch around the outline of the ish, taking care not to trap the tail in the seam and leaving a 5cm gap along the bottom edge. Turn out and stuf the ish, then fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch closed. Sew a 10mm button onto either side of the head to make eyes. Position the buttons in line with the ins.

Download and print the templates from sewmag.co.uk. Cut out the pattern pieces, adding 5mm seam allowance to all of the edges, except the folds. Sew the beak piece, right sides together, to the front of the head along the straight line, then open out and press. Open the front panel and stitch each side to the concave curve of the body pieces. Fold the penguin, right sides together and matching up the edges, then sew all around leaving a gap for turning at the base. Clip all the curves and corners before turning right sides out and using a knitting needle to push out the beak. Stuf irmly with ibre illing, fold in the raw edges of the gap and slip-stitch closed. Pair up the wing pieces, right sides together, and pin to the wadding. Sew together through all of the layers, leaving a gap at the top. Trim the wadding close to the seam, turn out through the gap and press. Fold in the raw edges and

“‘You could also gie your arms a break with these fun and colourful fish by using them as wist rests while on the computer” Corinne Bradd, sew designer

❀

3 69

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❀

❀ sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

❀ slip-stitch closed. Pin the wings to either side of the body and use two large buttons, strong thread and a long needle to button joint them in place. Pair up the feet and sew around the edges, leaving a gap for turning. Clip the curves and turn out. Lightly stuf before folding in the raw edges and slipstitching closed. Use strong thread to sew the feet to base of the body, treating each one as a button by stitching through the centre of the foot and into the body. Sew the buttons to either side of the head.

Visit raystitch.co.uk JAN

6 SUN Sewing with Silk Want to master slippery fabrics? Then this workshop is made for you! In the class, you’ll learn how to cut silk, transfer pattern markings and create French seams, as well as discovering what tools produce a professional finish and how to make bias binding. You’ll also have your own silky kimono by the end of the day! Price: £105

JAN

Children’s Intro to Machine Sewing

Why not pass your stitchy skills onto the younger generation with this amazing FRI workshop? If your little ones are eight years or older, then take them to this class so they can develop their creativity with a sewing machine: they’ll learn how to thread it, wind a bobbin, change the stitch tension, plus sew straight lines and around curves. By the end of the day session they’ll come away with a cute apron to take home. Price: £60

&learn

Stitch

Ray Stitch, London

Start the new year with these skill-boosting workshops

London College of Fashion, London Visit arts.ac.uk MAR

Denim Jean Workshop

Everyone needs a pair of denim jeans in their capsule MON collection! In this class, you’ll get a chance to practise sewing with this type of fabric by making a pair of men’s slim-fit trousers or women’s boyfriend jeans with a continuous fly and single-felled seams. You’ll also learn how to add front and back pockets, a button and a waistband. Price: £625

JAN

8 TUE

Boro Workshop: Stitch & Repair Join Ray Stitch for an evening of mindful sewing which focuses on the art of visible mending and repairing. The workshop is based on the Japanese term ‘boroboro’, which means tattered or repaired. This hand-stitching technique includes sashiko sewing, and you’ll use this to create your own garment, or mend a piece of clothing. Price: £40

APR

Understanding denim

Planning to start a denim project? Before FRI you begin it’s worth attending this useful class as it teaches you all the things you need to know about handling this heavyweight fabric. The lesson will cover everything from the history of denim, dyeing techniques and manufacturing processes, to its properties and sustainability. Price: £250

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sew PROMOTION

Sew Pretty, London JAN

Visit sewpretty.me.uk JAN

Make a Carmen blouse

Take your sewing to the next level with this blouse-making THU workshop! In the lesson, you can make a top with either short or long sleeves, and you’ll learn a number of useful skills from gathering and hemming, to tracing a pattern and inserting elastic. Price: £80

Make a stylish skirt

This one-day course will teach you all the essential techniques you need to make SAT a igure-lattering A-line skirt. You’ll be able to build on your stitchy skills by learning how to read and alter a pattern, take accurate measurements, gather, topstitch and create decorative sewing with a machine. Price: £110

JAN

Stretch your skills

Get to grips with knit fabrics in this handy workshop! You’ll ind out how to it necklines, bodices and sleeves, SAT as well as exploring techniques such as overlocking to achieve a professional inish. The three-hour sessions will take place over four weeks, in which time you’ll create a pair of pretty knickers, a stretchy blouse and a wrap dress. Price: £155

Sew Me Something, Warwickshire

JAN

If you’ve got an overlocker at home but you aren’t sure how to use it, or if you’re thinking SAT about buying one but would like to practise irst – then check out this helpful workshop. The class will build your conidence when it comes to overlockers by showing you how to thread the machine and create a sample book of all the diferent stitch settings. Price: £53

Visit sewmesomething.co.uk FEB

Love Your Overlocker

Hero Trouser Weekend

Head over to Sew Me Something for a two-day workshop on creating these stylish trousers. The course will be FRI split into two parts: the irst section will focus on how to it the bottoms to your shape, showing you where and how to make accurate pattern alterations; the second part will concentrate on sewing the darts, curved waistband, concealed zip, jetted pockets and inishing touches. Price: £190

JAN

The Kate Dress

If you’re fairly new to dressmaking, then this workshop is the perfect place to start! You’ll SAT learn how to insert darts and setin sleeves, as well as inishing the edges of the dress with binding. You’ll also have the option to make up your frock in either a linen, denim or corduroy fabric. Price: £83

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Dress, curtain, and patchwork fabrics. Haberdashery, buttons and quilting notions. And much, much, more. www.mandors.co.uk 134 Renfrew Street, Glasgow, G3 6ST

419 Barlow Moor Rd Chorlton Manchester M21 8ER MANCHESTER Tel: 0161 881 7960

If you would like to advertise on these pages, please call Anna on 01206 505932 or Hannah on 01206 505495

BIRMINGHAM

1 Moseley St Digbeth Birmingham B5 6JX Tel: 0121 622 6102

1000s of Rolls at Realistic Prices! Stockists of all kinds of • Fashion Fabrics • Woolens • Worsteds • Polywools • Polyesters • Cotton • Dance Wear • Linings • Bridal Wear • Satins • Suiting • Lycra and much, much more! Make-it enquiries@make-it.org.uk

www.leonsfabrics.co.uk

Nationwide Exhibitions 0117 907 1000

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• KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL •

your essential guide to a

Handmade Kitchen Whether you have a tiny galley or a large farmhouse style afair, your kitchen is no doubt the heart of the home. A great way of softening up this space is by dressing the room with subtle hand-sewn touches in pretty fabrics and we’ve got just the makes for you to try! While supremely practical and useful, we think they will also add a sweet and charming inish to the hardest working room in the house.

Share your makes with us on social media @sewHQ

sewmag.co.uk

• KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL •

Get started • Fabric: coordinating cotton, Dashwood Studios Sufolk Garden collection; white cotton backing • Cotton quilt wadding, 2oz • Velcro strips Note: Our measurements will wrap a rectangular 20cm x 25cm casserole dish

Craft a casserole carry-all

Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. For the large wrap sides, cut two 23cm x 25cm pieces of outer fabric, lining and wadding. Use the template to draw a handle slit and curved corners in one short edge of the reverse of the lining before placing right sides together with the outer fabric and pinning on top of the wadding. Stitch through all three layers along the pencil lines, using a small pair of embroidery scissors to cut away the centre of the handle, leaving a 0.3cm seam allowance. Snip around the curved corners and turn the fabric layers right side out through the hole. Topstitch around the handle, 0.3cm from the seam. Line up the outer edges of the panels and tack together. Take 19cm x 23cm sections of outer fabric, lining and wadding. Pin one long edge of the outer and lining to each side of the bottom edge of one of the handle sides, right sides facing. Place the wadding underneath these layers and sew them all together. Repeat with the other handle side, stitching it to the opposite edge of the base by rolling the handles up inside the layers. Turn the base right sides out to release the sides and enclose the raw edges along the base. Cut two 18cm x 25cm pieces of outer, lining and wadding. Pin one short edge of both the outer and lining to each side of the short edge of the base with right sides facing. Place the wadding underneath and sew together through all layers. Unfold them, pin together and round of the corners before tacking them all together. Repeat for the other short side of the base. This should result in a cross-shaped piece of padded fabric with all base seams enclosed and outer edges tacked neatly.

Trim 3cm wide strips of fabric and sew together end to end to make a continuous strip of around 3m. Use this as binding by pinning to the outer fabric, right sides together, easing at the curves and corners and folding in the ends of the strip so they match up neatly to each other. Stitch in place 0.5cm from the edge and fold over the edges of the carry-all. Fold under 0.5cm along the raw edge of the binding and slip-stitch to the inside of the work. Place the casserole dish inside the carry-all and fold the narrower sides over the top, marking the overlap distance with pins. Unwrap and

hand-sew Velcro strips to the inner and outer of the sides within the overlap space. Fold the handle sides over the casserole dish and pin where they meet. Hand-sew Velcro strips above this line to the inners of both sides so that when they are secured the handle holes will match.

Create fabric jar covers

1 2

To make a cover for standardsized jam jar, draw out a 13cm square on fabric, then cut it out using pinking shears. To inish, secure the fabric over a jar with an elastic band, piece of string or ribbon.

““Why not head oer to youtube.com/user/ TheCraftsChannel to hae a go at making these reusable cutlery pouches, too?" Corinne Bradd, sew designer

sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sewmag.co.uk

• KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL •

sew

Get started

free template download

• Fabric: coordinating cotton, Dashwood Studios Sufolk Garden collection; white cotton backing • Cotton quilt wadding, 2oz

sewmag.co.uk /templates

Fashion a fabric fruit bowl

Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Cut four sections from one fabric, four from a coordinating print and four from wadding. Sew two of each fabric panel together on the short edges, right sides together with a 0.5cm seam allowance, to make a ring. Do the same with the remaining fabric. Oversew the wadding pieces together in the same way. Place the fabric rings right sides together, matching up the seam lines, and lay over the wadding. Pin the layers together along the top edge and stitch. Trim away excess wadding from the seam before folding one fabric ring over the top to sandwich it. Topstitch the seam 0.5cm from the edge.

at the base of the rings, matching up the corners to the centre points of each section. Take the remaining square and fold under 0.5cm along each

Cut two squares of fabric and one square of wadding. Tack one fabric square to the wadding, right side out. Pin and stitch the square to the raw edges

edge. Pin and slip-stitch to the reverse of the base, covering all of the fabric and wadding raw edges as you do so.

Get started • Fabric, four contrasting prints, 25cm square Note: 5mm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

Sew easy coasters

Cut 24, 4cm x 12cm strips and four 12cm squares. Arrange a block of four alternate strips with the longest edges meeting. With right sides together, stitch these long edges and press the seams open. Position the patchwork with the right side facing upwards and the seams running horizontally. On top, lay two matching strips vertically, right sides facing down, side by side in the centre. Pin and stitch one down the left-hand side and the other down the right-hand side. Open out and press. Lay the patchwork on top of a fabric square with right sides meeting. Pin and stitch around, leaving a 6cm opening at the bottom. Trim the corners and turn inside out, pushing the corners out gently with a bodkin or knitting needle. Press the two seams at the opening and slip stitch to finish.

2 3 !

sewmag.co.uk

• KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL •

Get started • Fabric: coordinating cotton, Dashwood Studios Sufolk Garden collection; white cotton backing • Cotton quilt wadding, 2oz 0.5cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

sew

Sew a set of trivets

circle. Press all the seams to one side on the reverse before cutting a plain white circle and a wadding circle of the same size. Layer the pieces together and pin with the patchwork face up on the quilt wadding and the backing fabric underneath. Quilt the stack by sewing along the seam lines from side to side and add radiating lines in the centre of each segment if desired. Trim the outer edges to neaten if necessary. Cut a 3cm wide

Download and print the templates from sewmag. co.uk. Cut four wedge shapes from one fabric and four from a coordinating print. Stitch one piece of each fabric, right sides together with a 0.5cm seam allowance, along one straight edge to make four quarter circles. Sew the quarter circles together to make two semicircles and finally a full

strip of fabric long enough to bind the edge of the trivet. Stitch to the reverse of the mat, right sides together and 0.5cm from the edge, easing the fabric around the curve as you do so. Fold the fabric strip up over the edge of the trivet. Fold under 0.5cm on the raw edge and slip-stitch to the front of the mat to complete the binding.

free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

tip!

sewmag.co.uk

The templates make mats 21cm and 28cm in diameter; enlarge or reduce as necessary

• KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL • KITCHEN SPECIAL •

Get started • Fabric, three fat quarters in contrasting fabrics • Wadding, 35cm square • Pom-pom trim, 130cm 1cm seam allowance used throughout unless otherwise stated.

lengthways, right sides facing. Sew down the length and along one end using a 5mm seam allowance. Turn out using a knitting needle. Lay one strip on top of another to make two pairs, with the raw edges matching. Using the top middle square of the patchwork as a centre point, lay one pair of ties 2cm to the left of the middle square and another 2cm to the right. Overhang the raw edges of the ties, 2cm from

Make a pom-pom seat pad

Cut out ive squares, 12cm, and eight rectangles, 7cm x 12cm, all from diferent fabrics. With right sides facing, sew together two contrasting rectangles to make a square. Repeat with the other rectangles. Starting with a square in the centre, create a large patchwork, three squares by three squares. Working from left to right, stitch three squares together into a row. Press open the seams. With right sides together, lay the top row over the middle and match up the seams. Pin and stitch together along the length. Do the same with the bottom row to the middle. Press the seams to the left or right. From the remaining fabric, cut out a backing square, 36cm, and four 6cm x 35cm strips. Turn the strips into four ties by folding each one in half

the edge of the patchwork. Pin and tack. With the right side facing upwards, lay pom-pom trim around the perimeter with the pom-poms facing inwards. Lay the backing square, right side facing down, on top. Pin and stitch around most of the square, leaving open the area between the ties. Trim the excess seams and corners. Turn out and ill with the square of wadding then use small running stitches to close.

sew free template download sewmag.co.uk /templates

sewmag.co.uk

Sew Saturday SAVE THE DATE â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5th October, 2019 Proudly sponsored by:

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Visit us for local service with internet prices Fabrics & Trimmings Open: Monday-Saturday 9am-5pm

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80d Rosemary Road, Clacton-on-Sea, CO15 1ND

Traditional style wool shops with an extensive range of yarns, patchwork fabrics, buttons, haberdashery and more. We host a range of classes starting from beginners. Bring this advert into one of our shops and receive 10% off any purchase over £10 53 London Road, Cowplain PO8 8UJ Tel: 02392 253972

Sew Saturday SAVE THE DATE – 5th October, 2019 Proudly sponsored by:

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Our warm and friendly charity runs a sewing cafe four times a month, as well as courses taught by a qualified teacher.

Fabrics, Haberdashery & Wool! Stockists of Tilda Fabrics, Gutterman Fabrics & Threads, Butterick, McCalls and Kwik Sew patterns. Tel: 01472 357800 www.friarystitch.co.uk

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a little corner of patchwork heaven Opening Hours: Tues - Sat 10 - 5 Late Night Wednesday until 8 Fabric, Wadding, Threads and Haberdashery Workshop & Classes for all Abilities

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Designer Dressmaking & Quilting Fabrics, Sewing Patterns, Haberdashery and Sewing Workshops

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Utterly Delightful Fabric Emporium

Weekly Sewing classes and Workshops 01709 814 444

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5a York Buildings, Edlington Lane, Edlington, Doncaster DN12 1BU

01709 860881 www.sewcutefabrics.co.uk

You can enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways

worth

DYNAMIC DUO Tilly and the Buttons’ Ness and Nora patterns are an iconic pair. Nora is an easyto-sew sweater and t-shirt which can be whipped-up in an afternoon, and Ness is a slightly trickier skirt which features a zip ly front, in-seam pockets and belt loops – with Tilly’s jargonbusting expertise, sewing these garments will be a breeze! Available at tillyandthe buttons.com

£160!

16 to win!

We have eight pairs to give away. To enter, tick TILLY

TREAT YOURSELF Pamper yourself this January with the Mavala gift set! This package contains everything you need to soothe your ingers after a fun-illed day of sewing; there’s four hand moisturising products from the brandnew Swiss Skin Solution, a selection of nail polishes, as well as manicure essentials! Available at mavala.co.uk We have five sets to give away. To enter, tick PAMPER

sewJanuary

worth

EYE SPY

giveaways

British company Eyejusters create glasses with discrete dials on the edge of each lens to focus in on small details, whether that be tiny embroidery stitches or iddly button loops. Eyejusters go up to +4.0 and are available in several diferent styles – each lucky winner will get to choose their favourite pair! Available at eyejusters.com

£160!

We have two to give away. To enter, tick GLASSES

More than £1,500 worth of prizes to be won!

CAPSULE WARDROBE With My Handmade Wardrobe’s patterns, you can create comfortable and stylish essentials to ill your capsule closet! All of the sets include concise step-bystep instructions, explanations of sewing techniques and clear diagrams to help you along. So, what are you waiting for? Enter today to win all ive patterns! Available at craftysewandso.com

15 to win!

We have three bundles of five patterns to give away. To enter, tick PATTERN

11 to win!

WITH LOVE

This sweet kit is guaranteed to make a treasured handmade present! The set comes with all the embroidery essentials you need: a 7in hoop, printed design, two needles, some threads and a handy guide, so you can get started on your masterpiece straight away! Available at ozandbelle.co.uk We have 11 sets to give away. To enter, tick EMBROIDERY 82

sewmag.co.uk

You can enter online at sewmag.co.uk/giveaways INSPIRING READS We’re giving you the chance to win two books – perfect for every creative soul! The irst, Mid-century Modern explores popular and dynamic designs from the 20th century, and the second, Pattern Design is a visual wonder of geometric and abstract prints, complete with over 1,500 illustrations. With reads like these to hand, you’ll be illed with inspiration! Available at thamesandhudson.co.uk We have four pairs to give away. To enter, tick BOOKS

Fill out the form or visit sewmag.co.uk/ giveaways to win big!

worth

£160!

New from our columnist Debbie Shore comes this book series with a diference! The 15 stunning designs in Occasion Bags and Tote Bags are created on wipeable templates that are super-simple to position. With Debbie’s trademark clear instructions and the step-by-step photography, these books are a prize worth entering! Available at searchpress.com

8 to win! worth over

£233!

We have five bundles to give away. To enter, tick BAGS

SEW SOOTHING

BEST OF THE BUNDLES

Give your hard-working hands the SEAMS touch! This fantastic cream was created with seamstresses in mind as it helps to mend and moisturise pinpricked hands without leaving oily residue on fabrics. If this sounds like it’s up your street, why not enter today for the chance to win a tube? Available at seamsbeauty.co.uk

10 to win!

Sew have put together a Kraft-tex paper fabric and book bundle – just for you! With 40 inspiring quilts from 20 designers, the FreeSpirit Block Party collection teaches you how to sew modern patchwork, appliqué and paper-pieced projects. Plus, the Kraft-tex paper comes in ive diferent colours and combines the toughness of leather with the lexibility of fabric! Available at ctpub.com We have six bundles to give away. To enter, tick KRAFT

To enter our giveaways via post, tick the box that corresponds with the prizes you want to win and send your entry in by 24.01.2019* Mark your envelope: Sew January Giveaways, PO Box 443, Ipswich, Sufolk, IP2 8WG.

We have ten to give away. To enter, tick SEAMS

Just tick the boxes!

bags galore

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sew BOOKS

the BOOKS we’re loving... Delve into our favourite sewing titles this month!

Threads of Life by Clare Hunter This unique book provides an exciting insight into the history of the world through the eye of a needle. Expect a moving read which details the stories of those who have used sewing to make their voices heard, such as Mary Queen of Scots’ textiles and the Bayeux tapestry. Sceptre, £20, hodder.co.uk

Making & Marketing by Fiona Pullen If you’re looking to turn your craft into a booming business, then this book is a must-read! Every chapter is jam-packed with practical advice to help you build your company, along with insights from dozens of savvy sewing professionals like Debbie Shore, Torie Jayne and Laura Strutt. Search Press, £12.99, searchpress.com

Pattern Making

Draping

Modern Quilting

by Francesca Sterlacci

by Michael Caputo

Guide to Home Sewing

Attention crafters, the ultimate guide has arrived! Learn how to create the most basic patterns, starting with the sleeve ‘sloper’, before progressing onto more complex designs, such as collars and trousers. Francesca’s step-by-step photographs alone earns this book a lifetime spot on your shelf. Laurence King Publishing, £40, laurenceking.com

Draping material around a dress form is a great way to play with fabric and create innovative designs. With the help of University of Fashion founder, Francesca, you’ll learn how to use a dress form, prepare muslin for draping, and be able to follow images which will guide you through the process. Laurence King Publishing, £40, laurenceking.com

All skill levels are welcome to read this delightful project book! If you’re a beginner, try your hand at sewing funky cushions and coasters, then boost your skillset with a wonderful mini quilt. Arm yourself with this edition, and you’ll be on your way to creating cool, contemporary patchwork! CICO Books, £12.99, MAKEetc.com

Discover how to spruce up your interiors with this amazing guide! Gloria will teach you everything you need to know to stitch 50 exciting projects, including bed linens and lampshades. Plus, each make includes illustrated instructions and creative variations – what more could you want? CICO Books, £12.99, MAKEetc.com

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by Gloria Nicol

who does what... Editor, Lucy Jobber lucy.jobber@aceville.co.uk 01206 505420 Deputy Editor, Sophie Demetriades sophie.demetriades@aceville.co.uk Editorial Assistant, Laura Wybrow laura.wybrow@aceville.co.uk Publishing Director, Helen Tudor Group Editor, Lynn Martin Advertisement Sales Hannah Suttling hannah.suttling@aceville.co.uk 01206 505495 Anna Spilsbury anna.spilsbury@aceville.co.uk 01206 505932 Sarah Collins sarah.collins@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506255 Jackie Weddell jackie.weddell@mspublications.co.uk 01206 506221 Jo Bluck jo.bluck@aceville.co.uk 01206 506253 Art Director, Phil Dunham Designers Gemma Eales & Cat Morton Ad Production, Angela Scrivener Photography CliQQ Photography, cliqq.co.uk Models Sylvia, Colette, Anna-Sophie, Nevs; Abbie L, Gingersnap Fashion stylist, Boo Hill Hair and Make up, Dottie Monaghan Accounts, Denise Bubb 01206 505958 Subscription Enquiries/Back Issues 0330 333 0042 Website Enquiries webmaster@sewmag.co.uk

your

SEWING GUIDE

Get to grips with the dressmaking basics! THE PERFECT FIT The key to successful itting is taking accurate body measurements to ensure you get the right size. Pattern sizes aren’t the same as high street clothing sizes, so don’t be tempted to skip this stage. Once you’ve taken your measurements, compare them to those on the pattern envelope or Size It Up panel over the page, then you can make any necessary alterations. Cut out the paper according to the size closest to the measurements you have selected, choosing the best it (for dresses, blouses and jackets) in the bust and shoulder, as this area is harder to adjust. If your waist or hip measurements are out of proportion according to the standard pattern size, then simply graduate in or out to reach the relevant waist or hip lines to your size.

l Measure yourself in your underwear, preferably in the bra you will be wearing. l Use a new tape measure as they can distort out of shape over time. l Ask a friend to help you, especially with tricky measurements such as your back-neck to waist and height. l Be honest with your measurements and remember that pattern sizes are totally diferent to ready-to-wear high street sizing. l Use your measurements to help you adjust the pattern to it your shape, not forgetting to take the required amount of ease into account.

Newstrade Sales Marketforce 0203 148 3300 Marketing Manager, Andrea Turner

TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Subscriptions Executive Jo Gould sew@servicehelpline.co.uk

HIGH BUST Published by Aceville Publications Ltd 21-23 Phoenix Court, Hawkins Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 8JY © Aceville Publications Ltd. Toy safety: please note that toys with small parts are not suitable for children under three years of age. If making a toy for a very young child omit any buttons and embroider the details instead. Babies should be supervised when playing with toys. All projects from this issue and the FREE online patterns are for personal home use only and cannot be sold or used for commercial purposes. All patterns that are featured in Sew are reproduced in good faith that they do not infringe any copyright. The publishers are not responsible for any safety issues arising from any items created from projects contained within Sew magazine. While all possible care has been taken to ensure the accuracy of all projects, we are not responsible for printing errors or the way in which individual work varies. Please read instructions carefully before starting construction.

FULL BUST

WAIST HIPS

Measure while in the underwear you will be wearing and hold the tape measure comfortably snug, but avoid pulling tight.

HEIGHT Standing against a flat wall without wearing shoes, measure from the floor to the top of your head. HIGH BUST Measure directly under the arms, straight across the back and above the bust. FULL BUST Take the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust and straight across the back. WAIST Tie a length of narrow elastic around the waist and let it settle naturally at your waistline, then measure over it. Keep the elastic handy for future garments. HIPS Measure around the body at the fullest part. This is usually 18-23cm below the waist. 86

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Use our FREE pattern to create this frilled Violet top at sewmag.co.uk!

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SIZE it up Once you have your body measurements, choose the closest size from the chart below. Remember, there will be variations depending on which fabric and pattern you choose, so always make a toile irst.

For size 8: Bust - 78cm Waist - 59cm Hip - 85cm Back neck to waist - 39cm

For size 10: Bust - 83cm Waist - 64cm Hip - 88cm Back neck to waist - 40cm

For size 12: Bust - 88cm Waist - 69cm Hip - 93cm Back neck to waist - 41cm

For size 14: Bust - 93cm Waist - 74cm Hip - 98cm Back neck to waist - 42cm

READING A PATTERN The basic markings you will find on commercial dressmaking patterns are important to familiarise yourself with. These marks indicate various techniques or steps and are best transferred onto your fabric pieces once you’ve cut them.

MULTIPLE SIZE CUTTING LINES These lines indicate dress sizes. Highlighting yours can help with cutting.

BUST/HIP INDICATORS Located at the bust and hip points on the pattern – make any necessary adjustments if yours don’t fall there.

TUCKS AND GATHERS Bring these lines together before stitching.

GRAINLINE Align this mark with the grain of the fabric i.e. parallel to the warp (see below).

LENGTHEN/SHORTEN HERE This is an opportunity to customise the pattern to your preferences.

BUTTON / BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENTS These indicate where buttonholes should be made on a garment.

FOLD LINE This mark indicates that the pattern piece should be positioned along the fold of the fabric, creating a larger ‘mirrored’ piece.

MISCELLANEOUS MARKINGS These come in a range of sizes and are used as points of reference on a pattern to indicate where pieces should be placed.

NOTCHES Match two pieces of fabric together at these points.

“A close weave satin will mark easily, so I’d recommend you treat your machine to a fine needle and invest in some high-quality pins. Before stitching, pin the garment pieces together and tack to prevent the layers of fabric from slipping. Don’t backstitch at the beginning of a seam either, as the fabric will pucker. Lastly, remember to hold both thread ends taut in your left hand to stop the material from being sucked into the hole in the needle plate.” MAY MARTIN, SEWING PERSONALITY

For size 16: Bust - 98cm Waist - 79cm Hip - 103cm Back neck to waist - 43cm

For size 18: Bust - 103cm Waist - 84cm Hip - 108cm Back neck to waist - 44cm

For size 20:

“This lightweight polyester satin fabric has a beautiful floral print which would look wonderful as a statement top” CAROLINE BOARDWELL REID, CROFT MILL

With the paper pattern pieces facing up, place them onto the fabric. Some will need to be placed on the fold of the fabric (where it’s folded in half, giving you a mirrored piece), which will be indicated on the individual pattern pieces. Most patterns ofer a layout guide for the placement, according to the width of your fabric. This helps you get the most from your fabric, and avoids wastage. Pattern pieces that are not indicated to be placed on the fold need to be put on the material with the grainline arrow running parallel to the selvedge. Measure the distance from one end of the arrow to the selvedge, repeat for the other side of the arrow, and move the pattern piece until both measurements are the same.

Getting to grips with your fabric is a fundamental part of sewing. Before you start, familiarise yourself with:

WARP These are the yarns that run the length of the fabric. They are stronger than weft yarns and less likely to stretch.

WEFT These run over and under the warp threads across the fabric from selvedge to selvedge. BIAS The bias grain runs 45° to the warp and weft of the fabric. Cutting garments on the bias creates a finished piece that will follow the contours of the body. SELVEDGE The non-fraying, woven edges that run parallel to the warp grain is the selvedge.

S BIA

Bust - 108cm Waist - 89cm Hip - 113cm Back neck to waist - 45cm

UNDERSTAND YOUR FABRIC

PLACING YOUR PIECES

WARP

John Kaldor, £9 per metre, croftmill.co.uk

SELVEDGES

WEFT FOLD 87

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Next month in

PATTERNS INSIDE! Sizes 6-20*

STYLISH STAPLES

FIT ‘N’ FLARE * Features subject to change

l Make skirts, culottes

and shorts l Finish with a invisible

back zipper and waist-tie

COMPLETE THE NO! LOOK WITH A KIMO

You’ll love our

FEBRUARY ISSUE! l Discover the relaxing

JUMP FOR JOY

world of slow-stitching

l Prep for spring with

l Find expert tips on

a jumpsuit, dress and kimono l Try in-seam pockets and topstitch detailing

achieving a pro finish l Plus, sew adorable Valentine’s Day projects

DON’T MISS OUT! OUR FEBRUARY ISSUE IS ON SALE 10th JANUARY 2019 89

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Stay in bed? Well, if you insist! As long as we can sew...

Blue and white pyjama top, £30; bottoms, £30, sosandar.com

So this is what walking on clouds must feel like! £55, figleaves.com

Grab a cuppa and plan out your next stitchy make while wearing pyjamas!

STYLE STORY

PYJAMAS

Can you get any more traditional than checked red PJs? £25, debenhams.com

Delve into the history of this bedtime basic Words by LAURA WYBROW

Ah, January: when the days are short, summer seems like forever away and there’s no better feeling than snuggling up in a pair of pyjamas with a cuppa and sewing project to hand. The faithful PJs are a year-round wardrobe staple: we wear a cotton shorts and top duo in summer and a cosy leece combo at winter time. It’s become a national ritual to change into jammies, but where did this garment originate from? And, more importantly, what are the tips and tricks we need to know for stitching our own? The word ‘pyjama’ is borrowed from the Hindustani ‘pāy-jāma’, which is taken from the Persian ‘pāy-jāmeh’ translating to ‘leggarment’. The original pyjamas were loose, lightweight trousers itted with a drawstring waistband, and worn predominantly in India until they were adopted by Europeans in the 18th century. Although the Victorian era initially sparked the use of the garment as nightwear, it was Coco Chanel that famously transformed sleepwear into daywear.

SLEEPWEAR TO DAYWEAR At the turn of the 20th century, feminine nightdresses were women’s sleepwear of choice, but that all changed at the start of the roaring 20s with Chanel’s lounging pyjamas. Worn at the coast and on holiday abroad, PJs were swiftly considered a stylish alternative to

nighties, yet remained somewhat taboo outside the relaxed dress codes of the beach. It was only when designer Princess Irene Galitzine launched the famous palazzo pyjamas, made from soft silk, that they became a irm ixture in the 60s evening-wear scene. With Madonna, Cher and other style icons still donning the sleep-chic look on the red carpet, the style has proved it’s here to stay!

SLEEP TIGHT These Nina Lee Piccadilly Pyjamas are the perfect pattern to pay homage to the classic button-down duo. Sweet dreams!

SEWING SWEET DREAMS The traditional pyjama consists of a jacket and trouser combo made from fabric such as lannelette, calico or cotton twill, and the top usually has a placket front with culess sleeves. Contemporary jammies come in a whole host of styles, from short-sleeve tees to cropped bottoms, which are often stitched in stretch fabrics with rib-knit trimmings. When sewing your own, the comfort factor is a priority – that’s why adding an elasticated waist is key! When including this, remember to use pins to mark a 7cm-long opening to insert the elastic, then take a safety pin to thread it through the casing and stitch the ends together. Jersey not your bag? Silk PJs feel ultraluxurious against the skin and the natural ibres allow your skin to breathe while keeping you warm. However, sewing them is trickier than other variations; you need to use a small, sharp needle to avoid pulling any threads, and be sure to cut the fabric through paper to prevent it from slipping. So, now that you have the pyjamas, where’s that cuppa? 90

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Piccadilly sewing pattern, £14, ninalee.co.uk

Starlight in knit, visit artgalleryfabrics. com for stockists