Explore Ubud 1st Edition by Explore Ubud

FOREWORD EXPLORE UBUD • FREE GUIDEBOOK 1 - OCTOBER 2015 - JANUARY 2016

Om Swastiastu, Welcome to the first edition of EXPLORE UBUD pocket guidebook. Now that Ubud is coming of age as a destination unto to itself, we feel there is a need for a new information booklet made by and for Ubud visitors and residents. We plan to bring you the best of Ubud and beyond, introduce you to local personalities, places, movers and shakers. “An atmosphere of rural nature bali” painting by AA. Gede Wiranata. Photo courtesy by ARMA Museum, Ubud - Bali.

We want to mix the esoteric with the profane – a blend of everything that makes Ubud great. This little royal artists village has changed character very much over the past few years. After starting with esoteric tourism in the ‘30’s with the likes of artist Walter Spies, and antropologist documentarist, Miguel Covarrubias, in later years it became a sort of hippie haunt backpacker hideaway. Now it has become an upmarket yoga destination and celebrity retreat with some of the swankiest hideaways on the island, hidden far away from prying eyes. Some of the best restaurants on the island can also be found around town. Upmarket shops and galleries abound – take time to explore and discover. Enjoy your stay. Om Shanthi…Shanthi… Shanthi Om

THE PUBLISHER

WE MEET IN UBUD BALI

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ubud crossroad

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ubud palace

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shopping in ubud, ubud accommodation, eating out, balinese dances, ubud culture dance performances, ubud spas, yoga in ubud, sport and adventure

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complete with four sections ubud map, and map of bali

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ubud’s surround villages, ubud palace and museum, ubud market, ubud’s monkey forest, the heron of petulu, tegallalang ceking ricefield

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INTRODUCTION

the history of ubud, welcome to ubud village, getting to ubud

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petulu heron JL . R AYA KEDEWATAN

CONTENTS

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ARTS and FESTIVALS

ubud/bali festivals, udud/gianyar culture event, bali arts & crafts, tips for first time visitors

company listing, living, out of town, last image

technical advisorsantoz graphic designerdedito.Ssn photographerigst ketut windia sales and marketingketut muliartani itnyoman suryadi financesusilawati distributiongemini studio-bali team publishergemini studio-bali, jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat-bali 80361, phone: +62 361 8495479, +62 361 8447982, email: sales@geministudio-bali.com, phone 081 353320709 directordeddy rida sukawati ssn. Views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. All material copyright ©2015 gemini studio-bali. The publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

The History of Ubud

bud is Bali’s spiritual, artistic and cultural heart. It has long been known as a mystical place, rich in healing powers and important as a source of medicinal herbs and plants. In fact, it gets its name from the ancient Balinese word, ‘ubad,’ which means medicine. From as long ago as the eighth century, noble families from all over Bali sent their sick to Ubud to be cured, and the tradition continues today – with visitors from all over the world seeking out the healing therapies, alternative medicines and wellness programmes for which Ubud is so famous. The area has also become a sought-after destination for spiritual tourists, which began with yoga teachers bringing students to find serenity in what was then a sleepy village.

INTRODUCTION It was also back in the eighth century that the Javanese Buddhist priest Rsi Marhandya came to Bali and meditated at the confluence of the two rivers at Campuhan. Here he founded the Gunung Lebah Temple on the valley floor, which was later expanded by Nirartha, the Javanese priest who is regarded as the founder of Bali’s Hindu practices and rituals. The site still remains a pilgrim destination. More temples were established over the next 400 hundred years, including the temple complex at Gunung Kawi, and the cave temples at Goa Gajah. Many dances, dramas and rituals were established and are still practised in Ubud today. The Majapahit kingdom conquered Bali in the mid 14th century, with the final victory against the Pejeng Dynasty centred at Bedulu, just to the east of Ubud. A great blossoming of Balinese culture followed, and the ancestry of Ubud’s current day aristocratic families can be traced back to this period. In the sixteenth century, there was a total transplantation of the Majapahit Kingdom to Bali as the Islamisation of Java forced them eastwards. The balance of power swayed between the various dynasties and feudal lords, but the Ubud area remained a very important mechanism in the various regencies that ruled Bali.

understanding of Balinese art and culture worldwide, and entertained many celebrities including Charlie Chaplin, Noël Coward, Barbara Hutton, H.G. Wells and Vicki Baum. A new burst of creative energy came in 1960s in the wake of Dutch painter Arie Smit and the development of the Young Artists Movement. From the 1960s onwards, while the infrastructure was still very limited, intrepid travellers started to arrive. Ubud has since developed rapidly into a well-known, top-class international destination, which today still maintains its integrity as the hub of Balinese art and culture.

In the late nineteenth century, Ubud became the seat of feudal lords who owed their allegiance to the king of Gianyar, which at that time was the most powerful of Bali’s southern states. The lords were members of the ‘satriya’ family of Sukawati, and were significant supporters of Ubud’s increasingly renowned arts scene. In 1900, Ubud became a Dutch protectorate at its own request, and the colonialists allowed the traditional arts and culture of the area to remain relatively unchanged. The modern era of Ubud began in the 1930s, when foreign artists, such as Walter Spies and Rudolph Bonnet, were encouraged by the royal family to reside in Ubud, These artists, and others, were instrumental in promoting an

Welcome To Ubud Village

et well away from the humid southern plains, the mayhem and the hedonistic excesses of Kuta and Seminyak, Ubud has long been recognised as Bali’s cultural hub. This is mainly thanks to a community of expatriate painters, writers, scholars and composers who made their homes here in the 1930s. The most notable of these early foreign residents was Walter Spies, a Russian-born German painter, credited with attracting the attention of Western cultural figures to Balinese art, and influencing the direction of Balinese art and drama.

As tourism escalated in the ’70s and ’80s, Ubud still attracted bohemians and artists, along with backpacking cosmic seekers, many of whom chose to stay. They built themselves simple bamboo huts in the rice fields, decked out with wobbly bamboo furnishings, floor cushions and batik sarong curtains. Nowadays, Ubud is a conglomeration of villages. Its expat residents still include a core of artists, authors, anthropologists and musicians, as well as people who are actively involved in mysticism, environmentalism, yoga and alternative healing. It is not surprising therefore that Ubud hosts two internationally-acclaimed festivals every year: the BaliSpirit Festival rejoicing in yoga, dance and music, and the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival, which has made it a hot spot for the literati glitterati. Ubud is home to a small treasure trove of museums and galleries, featuring traditional and modern work including paintings, ceramics, carvings, sculpture, batik, weaving and photography. In the neighbouring villages, you can watch the island’s most accomplished painters, stonemasons, woodcarvers, mask makers and silversmiths at work. It is also a great place for shopping: classic, contemporary and abstract paintings, plus a massive range of crafts including gold and silver jewellery, woodcarvings, fabrics, clothing, pottery, batik, paintings, metalwork and antiques can all be found in the town’s numerous galleries and shops. The market sells handicrafts, garments, spices and foods, and Ubud even has its own sacred Monkey Forest. Restaurants are plentiful, although nightlife is more limited.

than the southern coastal regions. Furthermore, it is surrounded by most of the attributes that entice people to this exceptionally beautiful island – traditional art and craft communities, ancient temples, palaces, emerald rice terraces, vertical river gorges, coconut palms and lush jungle. Knee-buckling views incorporating the distant volcanoes are among the most prized in the world. Ubud’s visitors are those in search of art, culture, nature, relaxation and inspiration; activities include meditation, yoga, jungle trekking, mountain cycling and white water rafting. Numerous trails offer memorable walks and the opportunity to witness time-honoured methods of agriculture. The area is already renowned for the world-class architecture of its exclusive hideaways, boutique hotels and splendid holiday rental villas, yet Ubud also offers the choice of simple family homestays and modest hotels, all of which combines to make it the perfect base when visiting Bali.

Ubud is the seat of the Sukawati Royal Family; the palace is centrally located and open to the public. There are many, well-presented, cultural performances staged here, in particular the famous Kecak dance, the fire dance, the monkey dance and the Legong dance. Due to its location, 250 metres above sea level in the foothills of Bali’s central mountain range, Ubud enjoys a cooler, fresher and generally more pleasant climate

Getting to Ubud

bud is located 38km from Ngurah Rai International Airport; 34km from Kuta; 31 km from Seminyak; 26km from Sanur; 45km from Candidasa; and 72km from Lovina. Lungsiakan, which becomes Jl Raya Sanggingan. This will becomes Jl Raya Sanggingan. This will bring you onto Jl Raya Ubud via the Campuhan Bridge. If you are coming from Seminyak or Kerobokan head northwest and approach Ubud via Jl Raya Mambal, which will bring you to traffic lights at a set of crossroads. Turn left and follow the road towards Sayan; when you get to the petrol station you can follow the directions above.

All roads in Bali seem to lead to Ubud. If you are approaching from the airport or Sanur, head north towards Batubulan and follow the signs for Kedewatan, Payangan and Kintamani. As you approach Sayan you will see the Sayan petrol station on your right. Turn right at the petrol station onto Jl Raya Singakerta. Continue through Nyuh Kuning and turn left onto Jl Raya Pengosekan. This will bring you into Ubud on the Monkey Forest Road. Alternatively continue along the Sayan Ridge and about 150m after the Amandari Resort turn right into Jl Raya

From Bali’s international airport, a car journey to Ubud takes approximately 60 - 75 minutes depending on the traffic. If you have pre-booked a hotel and not made prior arrangements for an airport transfer, there is a taxi service from the airport that you can use; fixed rates to various destinations are posted on a board at the taxi counter. The fixed rates are about 50 percent more expensive than metered taxi rates. If you are on a tight budget and are prepared to drag your luggage outside the airport gates, you will be able to flag down a taxi and pay the metered fare. There are no other forms of public transport from the airport apart from airport taxis and hotel pick-up services. Shuttle services operate daily to Ubud from Kuta, Sanur, Lovina and Candidasa. Tickets are available from most hotels and tourist agencies. Chartering a car or minivan with driver can be done by the half-day or full-day. Rates are cheaper if negotiated on the street rather than from your

hotel. Rates vary according to the kind of vehicle, its condition, actual travel time, and total number of hours hired. This amount should include fuel. Alternatively you can rent a car yourself and pay per day for the services of a driver. If you are looking to rent a self-drive car, you must have an International Driving Permit. It’s also advisable to pay the extra cost to ensure you have full insurance coverage. Petrol is not included. Note: Drive on the left side of the road. Bear in mind that driving in Bali can be dangerous. Generally, drivers do not drive defensively, the roads are narrow and poorly maintained, and dogs and chickens frequently dart into the road. Street lighting at night is limited. If you collide with anything, you are responsible for all costs. It’s safer to hire a driver while you relax and enjoy the sights. Motorcyles are a convenient and inexpensive way to get around the island, but there are risks due to heavy traffic and poor roads. Helmets are required by law but the cheap ones provided by rental agencies offer little protection. Bring your own or buy a good one from a local shop. Drive slowly and defensively, as more and more people are injured or killed every year in accidents. The cost of motorbike hire varies according to the model, condition of the machine, length of rental, and time of year. Petrol is not included. Buy full insurance and be sure to test drive it to check that everything is in working order, especially brakes and lights. Most rental bikes are 125cc or smaller. You must have an International Driving Permit valid for motorcycles, or else go to the Denpasar Police Office to obtain a temporary permit, valid for three months in Bali only.

Ubud’s Surrounding Villages

he artisan villages surrounding Ubud are home to the island’s most accomplished painters, dancers, musicians, stone carvers, woodcarvers, silversmiths, mask makers, puppeteers and more. Each village has its own occupational specialty and artistry, and these skills are passed down through generations of Balinese families. In recent years, it has become difficult to distinguish Ubud itself from the communities that surround it, but each village has a distinct identity. Most are set in beautiful rural areas, and a short walk or bicycle ride is usually all it takes to reach yet another enchanting destination for an easy half-day of sightseeing.

BATUBULAN The village of Batubulan, meaning moonstone, is famous for its stone carvings. These are exhibited all along the main road and many are crafted from ‘paras,’ which is composed of compressed clay and volcanic ash found in nearby ravines. It’s so soft and porous that the tropical climate wears it down, making it necessary for temple carvings to be replaced every few decades.

Batubulan is also home to the Bali Bird Park. Here, paved paths lead through two hectares of landscaped gardens where more than 1,000 specimens of over 250 exotic bird species live in well-designed aviaries. The ticket includes entry to the adjacent Rimba Reptil Park, which houses one of Indonesia’s biggest collections of rare reptiles and amphibians. Finally, Batubulan is the place to come if you’re interested in seeing some Balinese dance performances, including the Barong dance and trance dances, which are performed here for visitors.

EXPLORE UBUD

Celuk The silversmith village of Celuk comprises three kilometres of main road bordered by a maze of backstreets full of silver workshops and outlets. Here, decorative silver jewellery is produced by master craftsmen, whose intricate skills and trade secrets have been passed down through generations of families. Using traditional techniques and the most basic of tools, the Balinese silversmiths handcraft their jewellery from silver that is mined in other parts of Indonesia, brought to Bali, and then combined with small amounts of copper to form sterling silver. Each component is created from sterling silver sheets, which are cut, shaped, soldered, filed, finished and fabricated into intricate designs, enhanced by a technique called granulation, where small pellets and tiny coiled silver wires and are heated until soft enough to adhere to the piece, in order to form a pattern or decorative feature. The jewellery is often set with precious and semi-precious gemstones. Sukawati Sukawati, meaning beautiful joy, is a flourishing market town famous for handicrafts. During the 18th century, it was the centre of a powerful kingdom. ‘Kain prada’ cloth, gold-leafed by hand

in the past, is silkscreened by Sukawati’s villagers for costumes and shrines, and made into lovely temple parasols and dance fans. Look out for the road side shops selling these items. Sukawati is even more famous for producing some of Bali’s best ‘dalang’ (puppeteers), who make their own ‘wayang kulit’, or leather puppets, delicately carved from thin cattle hide and then painted. The dalang’s work is very complicated and it takes years to master the craft. The art market (Pasar Seni) covers two floors, and sells everything from wind chimes and statues to clothing, paintings and dance costumes. Items vary in quality, but all are much less expensive than at the larger art shops and even at stalls in Kuta. Bargaining is expected.

Blahbatuh Blahbatuh is famous for the temple of Pura Gaduh, associated with Kebo Iwo, the legendary giant from the 14thcentury kingdom of Bedulu. The story goes that Gajah Mada, prime minister of the Javanese Majapahit kingdom, realised he couldn’t conquer Bali as long as Kebo Iwo was alive so he hatched a plan and tricked Kebo Iwo into digging a well, which the eager giant did with his bare

hands. When he was deep down inside, Gajah Mada ordered his soldiers to fill in the hole, burying him alive. With his dying breath, Kebo Iwo swore that since he was covered with chalky white dust, he would return as a giant albino ‘kebo’ (water buffalo), and subjugate the Javanese for 300 years. The curse came true with the Dutch colonial rule of Java from the 17th to the 20th century. At the Sidha Karya Gamelan Foundry, you can watch men pump the bellows to fire up the heat for metal forging. Others use large mallets to hammer the heated bronze into the desired shapes for musical instruments. Instrument cases also are carved and gilded here. Mas The village of Mas, meaning gold, is best known for its intricate woodcarvings and masks, and the road through it is solidly lined with craft shops – where visitors can see the carvers at work – as well as workshops producing teak furniture, and a string of galleries. The famous mask maker, Ida Bagus Anom has a studio along the main road. He has carved masks for performance artists from all over the world and his distinctive yawning masks have been widely copied throughout the island. Also worth visiting

is Njana Tilem Gallery, showcasing the work of two of Bali’s most talented wood sculptors, the late Ida Bagus Njana and his son Ida Bagus Tilem. Many of the inhabitants of Mas are ‘brahmana,’ the priestly caste who trace their roots back to Danghyang Nirartha. This 16th-century Javanese high priest founded the temple, Pura Taman Pule, named after the ‘pule’ tree (Alstonia scholaris), which is used for making masks.

Peliatan Peliatan is well known for its gamelan and dance troupes, which have represented Bali overseas and gained international

prominence. The musicians and dancers from the village are passionate about preserving and developing the Peliatan style of music and dance and even now, many young children of elementary school age are still keen to learn. Lessons are available on request for visitors who wish to study classical, modern dance or music with some of Peliatan’s well known musicians and dancers at the ‘Balerung Mandera Srinertya Waditra’ building, which was named after Anak Agung Gede Mandera, a famous musician and choreographer who was one of the founders of the Gong Kebyar style of music and dance in Peliatan in 1926-27.

Bedulu The farming village of Bedulu was once the seat of the old Balinese kingdom of Pejeng – a long tongue of land between the Petanu and Pakrisan rivers – and the last indigenous dynasty to hold out against the mighty Majapahit Empire, which invaded Bali in 1343. Today this area is home to some of Bali’s most famous monuments and relics, including and Goa Gajah, a cave that dates back to the 11th century and was the supposed dwelling place of a Buddhist priest. Just above the cave entrance is a monstrous

head with its hands appearing to push apart its fanged gaping mouth. The demonic face, with bulging eyes and large earplugs, is a Boma figure that frightens away evil. The village of Bedulu is also home to Museum Purbakala, a museum of archaeology, which exhibits pre-Hindu artifacts, stone carvings and old Chinese porcelain. Pura Samuan Tiga is the temple of ‘the meeting of the three parties;’ it stages an eleven day ceremony during the 10th full moon. Kemenuh Back in the 1970s and ’80s, the village of Kemenuh had one of the strongest economies in the Gianyar District, and its master carvers produced magnificent artefacts that today are held in revere in museums worldwide. It is known for its huge Garuda statues and other mythical figures, either painted or unpainted, and up to three metres in height, as well as for its unique driftwood carvings. Most of the carvings are done inside family compounds and often the only advertisements are small signs on the compound gates. The Pura Dalem temple of Kemenuh is worth visiting for its beautiful and intricate carvings.

The village has two soft trekking paths through the beautiful natural scenery of the Petanu River valley. The main attraction is the 20-metre-high Tegenungan Waterfall, and to get here you have to go down 172 stairs. Along the way, you will find a public bath used by local people, which is divided into two separate areas, for men and women.

Bona The village of Bona specialises in products woven from dried lontar fan-palm leaves, including good quality baskets, hats, sandals, wallets, handbags, fans, dolls, birds, flowers, and up-to-three-metretall Christmas trees. Plain and spotted bamboo chairs, beds and tables, or plain or ornate wooden and cane furniture can be ordered here. Bona is also the place where the dramatic modern kecak dance was born. Kecak was originally the music that accompanied the sacred Sanghyang dance, which could only be staged in the temple. Then in the early 1930s, artists from Bona developed a fire dance using the story of Ramayana as a substitute for the Sanghyang dance, so that it could be performed in public.

Petulu Every day in the late afternoon, a remarkable, natural phenomenon occurs in the tiny village of Petulu as thousands of white herons fly in to roost for the night. It’s a spectacular sight as the huge flocks of birds arrive in a steady throng, filling the sky, flying in formation, wheeling, drifting, sailing and finally landing in the tall palms and old bunut (fig) trees, where they squabble over prime perches, turning the tree tops white like snow and splattering the roadsides with their droppings. Village tradition dictates that the herons, which are considered sacred, may not be disturbed while they roost but visitors can sit at a simple viewing platform beside the rice fields and watch the roosting activities. The villagers of Petulu believe that the herons are manifestations of the souls of the Balinese who were killed – and buried without due rites – during the anticommunist massacre in Indonesia in 1965/66.

Tegallalang The wood carving village of Tegallalang, meaning grass fields, is very much a tourist trap, but it is worth braving the hordes of trinket peddlers to view the

stunning sculptured rice terraces here. If you are heading north, look for the picture postcard view across the valley on your right-hand side. The location is cool and breezy with lots of small viewing areas where you can stop for refreshments while you take photos. Painters also love this place. A winding river valley is carved into steep embankments, and the long-stemmed ‘padi Bali’ (indigenous Balinese rice) is grown here. Workshops and simple wholesale outlets line the road for 5km, selling all sorts of wooden handicrafts including carved mythical lions, horses, human figures, dogs, dragons, vases, frogs, kangaroos, cats, ornate totems, panels, doors, windows, tables and the many brilliant forms of creativity – extending even to large-scale dinosaurs, and some magnificent Garuda statues. Taro The ancient village of Taro marks the exact centre of the island. According to legend, this was where the 8th century itinerant Javanese priest, Rsi Markandya, was sent by the gods on a mission to establish a settlement in the forest. It is also the source of Bali’s sacred albino buffalo. Since the locals believe this

whereas Sebatu makes devil masks. Every three days the village market takes place in the area in front of the temple. Just outside is a bathing place with stone statues of maidens spouting water, carved stone dragons, sacred golden carp, and lichen covered ancient walls. The village is very active in music and dance and home to a noted dance troupe that once toured the world. Incredibly this village possesses three orchestras. albino stock is holy, they are not used for work, may not be sold or eaten, and are strictly quarantined to keep the breed pure. Elephant Safari Park at Taro is an exceptional example of eco-tourism providing sanctuary for 30 Sumatran elephants. Here, you and your children can enjoy the wonderful and unforgettable experience of meeting, hand-feeding, touching, stroking and observing these amazing, highly intelligent creatures, rescued from the Indonesian island of Sumatra. You can even ride the elephants on a safari tour through the park (kids love this) and watch elephant talent shows. Sebatu Sebatu is a village of woodcarvers and musicians. The temple is an exceptionally pretty spot against a backdrop of rich green foliage. In front of the temple are a few shops displaying a mass of wooden crafts. Look for sensual figures and exquisitely carved garuda statues. Note the difference between the masks of Mas and those of Sebatu. The lines and colours of the masks from Mas are pure, while those of Sebatu are more exuberant. Mas makes masks of the gods,

with professional, highly-trained and experienced guides piloting the safetyequipped rafts. Hot showers at the end are followed by a gourmet buffet feast. A traditional Barong dance drama performance is performed at 7pm every Thursday and Sunday at the main temple in Kedewatan. The village is also famous for its chicken rice which has become something of an attraction for tourists.

Kedewatan Kedewatan, meaning divine place, is an area believed to be blessed by the gods; a village with outstanding views and sweet rambutan fruit trees, where the mountain waters of the Ayung River carve a meandering pathway through a landscape of rich tropical greenery. The challenging rapids of Ayung River in the west of the village have attracted many tourists to enjoy an action-packed white water rafting journey through class II and III rapids, against an awesome backdrop of pristine rainforest, towering gorges, emerald rice terraces and dramatic waterfalls. There are quite a number of different operators, the most reputable of which boast exemplary safety standards

Payangan Payangan is a charming, cool village hamlet located along the banks of the Ayung River just 13 km north of Ubud en route to the eastern mountains. Based at the foothills of Bali's central chain of volcanic mountains, the area is blessed with a fertile landscape and temperate weather conditions. There is a busy fruit and vegetable market here every three days, rambutans are cultivated here and also in this region you will find vanilla, durian, pineapples and coconut, cocoa, avocado and orange plantations, beautiful rice terraces, thick jungle, and giant bamboo forests. Further north and more rural, is home to a clutch of ultra-expensive luxury resorts such as the Amandari, Alila Ubud, Hanging Gardens of Ubud and Como Shambhala Estate.

Empul. Possessing magical powers and believed to be the elixir of immortality, the gin-clear freshwater springs bubble up into a large tank within the temple and gush out through waterspouts into a bathing pool, where elaborate carvings adorn the lichen covered walls. Also at Tampaksiring, you will find

Even if you can’t afford to stay here, have a meal at any one of the hotels’ highly rated restaurants and enjoy the valley views and the world class architecture. Tampaksiring Tampaksiring is the location of the 10th Century holy spring and temple of Tirta

Gunung Kawi, a blinding green water canyon surrounded by swaying fields of indigenous Balinese rice, known as ‘padi Bali’. Approached via a steep descent through stunning scenery, this is one of the prettiest places on the island. Here you will see ten ancient royal shrines dedicated to 11th century Balinese royalty, carved out of the rock face of the gorge of the Pakerisan River. Finally, Pura Mengening is a small ‘Clear Water Temple’ with a holy spring under a banyan tree. Nearby is a larger temple with a restored ancient building inside resembling the temple façades at Pura Gunung Kawi.

Ubud Palace and Museums Puri Saren Agung (Royal Palace)

Neka Art Museum

Puri Saren Agung on the corner of Jl Raya Ubud and Jl Suweta is Ubud’s royal palace and home to the Sukawati royal family. Featuring a series of splendid pavilions with richly carved doors, most of the buildings were designed by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Bali’s most famous architect, artist and carver, and were erected following a devastating 1917 earthquake. The front courtyard is open to the public, and traditional dance performances are held here every evening. This is by far the best and most dramatic setting for the performing arts in Ubud.

Neka Art Museum on Jl Raya Sangingan was founded in 1976 by former school teacher Suteja Neka, one of Indonesia’s foremost art connoisseurs. Here, a series of pavilions amid manicured gardens presents an outstanding collection of artwork showing the different historical styles of Balinese painting. The Balinese Painting Hall contains Balinese works ranging from the classical narrative ‘wayang’ (puppet) style to the Ubud and Batuan styles. The large Arie Smit Pavilion is devoted to the work of this Dutch-born artist along with works by his students of the Young Artists school, plus contemporary Balinese art in a wide range of styles. Works by Indonesian artists are displayed in the Contemporary Indonesian Art Hall, while the East-West Annexe has works by foreign artists such as Miguel Covarrubias, Rudolf Bonnet, Han Snel and Donald Friend. A special display features black-and-white photographs of Bali during the late 1930s and early 1940s, taken by Robert Koke, while the Lempad Pavilion has one of the largest collections of drawings by I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. Neka Art Gallery

Neka Art Gallery on Jl Raya Ubud opened in 1967 and was one of the first art galleries in Ubud. Individual galleries feature the different styles of Balinese painting. On the top floor, a special room displays works by the famous Dutch-born Indonesian artist Arie Smit; another section has contemporary Balinese and Indonesian paintings. All the works here are for sale.

Museum Puri Lukisan

Museum Puri Lukisan on Jl Raya Ubud is set in attractive gardens with lotus ponds. Founded in 1956, the excellent collection showcases the richness of traditional and modern Balinese art. The main building features Balinese paintings and sculptures from the 1930s, including works by the Pitamaha artists and fine drawings by the great I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, whose fluid classical scenes gained him the most recognition. A second gallery displays works by the Young Artists from the 1960s as well as traditional and contemporary paintings. This gallery is a great introduction to the principal genres of art practised in Bali. Blanco Renaissance Museum

The late Spanish artist Antonio Blanco (1926–99) built a garden home-studio at the top of a steep driveway beside Campuhan Bridge. The flamboyant Blanco is most well known for his rather erotic paintings of his favourite models: his Balinese wife and their daughter. Agung Rai Museum of Art

Set in landscaped grounds at Pengosekan, the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) was opened in 1996 by art dealer Anak Agung Rai. The upper floor of the main gallery is dedicated to Balinese paintings, some of them from the 1930s, while the lower floor features classical ‘wayang’ (puppet) style works from the early 1900s, antique textiles and contemporary Indonesian art. Another building displays works by famous artists, including the only paintings in Bali by the German Walter Spies. Rudana Museum

On the main Mas–Denpasar road, the Rudana Museum opened in 1995, and is owned by Nyoman Rudana, a local politician and art enthusiast. The top floor of this threestorey museum features works in the traditional Balinese styles. The first and the lower floors display works by wellknown Indonesian contemporary artists, including a big display of exquisite wooden sculptures.

Ubud Market

bud’s vibrant and central market is where the local people do their shopping early each morning before much of the fresh produce is whisked away to make room for tourist-oriented handicrafts. Vibrant and colourful, everything sold in the market is either grown, crafted, or produced in Bali.

Coffee beans, fruits, vegetables, garlic, shallots, hardware, textiles, baskets and bamboo crafts are all available somewhere amid the rich aromas, ripe smells and chaos of the heaped stalls. The narrow alleyways are crammed with vendors, buyers, and produce stretching in all directions. If you want to experience the traditional aspects of the food market, go before breakfast and you’ll find weird and wonderful tropical fruits and vegetables, eggs, fish and meat.

roasted coconut, sprouts, greens and spicy chilli sambal. Look for the ready-made tiny woven palm frond trays, lined with banana leaf and containing a symbolic assortment of flower petals. These are known as ‘canang,’ and are the Balinese daily offerings to the gods. The flower most commonly used in these offerings, and cultivated specifically for this purpose, is the blue hydrangea, and you will also find hydrangea and various other flower petals for sale; the flower petal vendors make a colourful sight, and the air is scented with sweet fragrance.

Other foodstuffs include peanuts, cashews, flour, lentils, rice and palm sugar, while snacks include ‘krupuk’ (crispy crackers made from rice or sago flour mixed with shrimp paste, fish flakes or fruit). Your sense of sight and sense of smell will be bombarded with spices such as cardamom root, turmeric, ginger, lemongrass, vanilla, long cinnamon sticks, galangal and chilli. As you walk through the crowded alleys, look out for the ‘daluman’ stall, where the market’s most respected lady mixologist prepares an ominous-looking dark green concoction. If you sit at her trestle table, she will blend the mixture with a swirl of coconut milk, a drizzle of liquid palm sugar and a flourish that will convince you it’s okay to drink. Among the other sights, sounds and aromas, you will see women serving vegetarian ‘bubur,’ which is rice porridge slapped upon a banana leaf and topped

arung Siam is an award-winning of excellent restaurant from tripadvisor 2015, humble-dining atmosphere alongside delicious and rather artistically presented classic Thai dishes – quite reasonable considering within a Thai music set around as well as the quality and freshness of each dish coming out of the kitchen. Thai classics and signature on their menus Pad Thai, Panang and mango with sticky rice for dessert, these kinds of dishes are perfect for anyone relatively new to authentic Thai food wanting to better understand why this is one of the most adored cuisines In Ubud Ebullient entrepreneur Jue, opening his Warung Siam 2 years ago in Jl. Goutama. Ironically, he picked up food skills and knowledge from around Thailand and Australia. His knowledge of herbs and combinations Thai home cooking style and international taste is exemplary.

And now, Jue decided to take his business to another step by opening his second restaurant “Buddha Bowl”, offer a mix of Thai and Asean dishes on the menus. The quality of the food is high and the taste link in Asean is impressive The crab spring rolls with the piquant dipping sauces are fabulous and the Red Duck Curry is worth a visit alone! Tangy and as spicy as you want to order it, it is a memorable dish.

Pho Bo – the famous beef noodle soup are there on the menu along with rice paper spring rolls. Thai delicacies include the fabulous Thai beef salad. The Fish with spicy tamarind sauce “Pla Lard Prik” is which adds a tangy and crispy texture to the fresh tasting. Vegetarian options are also available for those who are vegetarian. Buddha Bowl looks as if it is to become Ubud’s next big thing. Along with the pleasing environment. Ice Thai Milk tea, which is one of the best and personally, I cant wait to try it again. Warung Siam - Jl. Goutama, between Jl. Dewi Sita and Jl. Raya Ubud | T: 081 239 655 905 Buddha Bowl - Jl. Raya Pengosekan Ubud T: 081 339 339 928

Ubud’s Sacred Monkey Forest

he Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary, officially known as ‘Mandala Wisata Wenara Wana,’ occupies 11 hectares of lush, protected grounds at the lower end of Monkey Forest Road in the village of Padangtegal, just a short walk from the centre of Ubud. Being one of the town’s main tourist attractions, it is almost impossible to miss. True to its name, the sanctuary is home to four troupes of long-tailed Balinese Macaques – about 600 monkeys in total – occupying different areas of the park. This is one of several macaque-inhabited forests in Bali, and the best known due to its community-based management, location and ease of access. This important cultural and spiritual site welcomes upwards of 10,000 visitors each month. The monkeys can be very mischievous, but they are fascinating to observe, especially with their young. Follow the paved pathways through the forest and be sure to conceal your cameras, jewellery, keys, sunglasses or any other shiny object, for the mischievous and fearless macaques will snatch them and run off in a flash. You’ll see ladies selling bananas at the entrance and the monkey are always open to handouts of food from visitors but, unless you wish to be pounced upon, it’s best not to feed them. It is, however, important to treat the monkeys with respect as this forest is their home and you are a guest in it. This is why you should remain on the paved paths as the monkeys may become aggressive if you invade their private areas. It is also of great importance that you treat the trees, the plants and other animals and structures within the forest with great respect. In addition to the monkeys, you will find three temples here, dating from around the 14th century. The largest is the important Pura Dalem Agung (Great temple of the Dead), with its ornately-carved gate located at the highest point of the forest. A long flight of steps and a bridge over

a river leads to the Holy Bathing Temple, while the third temple, the Pura Prajapati funeral or cremation temple is situated next to one of two graveyards in the forest. The Monkey Forest is owned by the village of Padangtegal. Village members serve on the governing council, managing the forest and as well as a conservation effort, while also serving to maintain its sacred integrity and promoting it as a destination for visitors. Recent years have seen research and studies carried out on the monkeys’ health, diet and breeding habits. Also, despite its small size, the forest has around 115 different species of trees, some of cultural and spiritual significance, such as the majegan – which is used exclusively for the building of shrines, and the berigin, the leaves of which are used in cremation ceremonies. Ubud Monkey Forest has local guides and staff ready to assist you during your visit. If the monkeys steal your hat or your sunglasses, ask the Wenara Wana staff (identified by their green uniforms) for assistance. The guides are also a great source of information about the cultural and historical significance of the sites and temples within the sanctuary grounds. The admission fees are a nominal Rp 10,000 – 20,000. Pay for a onetime ticket, stay for as long as you wish, and enjoy the beauty and magic of this place. Open daily from 8.30 am - 6 pm

The Herons Of Petulu

very day in the late afternoon, a remarkable, natural phenomenon occurs in the tiny village of Petulu (5km north of Ubud), as thousands of white herons fly in to roost for the night. The huge flocks of birds arrive in a steady throng, filling the sky, flying in formation, wheeling, drifting, sailing and finally landing in the tall palms and old bunut (fig) trees, where they squabble over prime perches, turning the tree tops white like snow. Village tradition dictates that the herons, which are considered sacred, may not be disturbed while they roost. Visitors can sit at a simple viewing platform beside the ricefields and drink cold Bintang beers or soft drinks while they watch the roosting activities. Such a predictable gathering of these large and beautiful birds is a spectacle not to be missed.

Three species of herons roost at Petulu: the Little Egrets, the Cattle Egrets and the Javan Pond Herons. They are known collectively by the local people as ‘Kokokan’ – and their numbers have been estimated to total up to 20,000. The nesting period is usually around October and November and there is a certain order in how these three species build their nests in the trees, with the largest birds at the top and the smallest at the bottom. The villagers of Petulu believe that the herons are manifestations of the souls of the Balinese who were killed – and buried without due rites – during the anticommunist massacre in Indonesia in 1965/66. In Bali alone, 100,000 people were killed within two weeks. After the atrocities, the surviving residents of Petulu

Petulu held an elaborate cleansing ceremony in the village as a remembrance for the murdered, and to safeguard the survivors, petitioning for protection and blessings. Less than one month after the ceremony the herons mysteriously arrived in the village for the first time in history, they had never been seen before in Petulu. The villagers considered them as a blessing from God and then held a ceremony of welcome for the birds. During the ceremony, the priest fell into a trance and learned that the herons were there to guard and protect the village and the crops from pests, disease and negative events. The villagers of Petulu still pay homage to the birds twice a year by holding a special ceremony for them in which they express their gratitude for being trusted as the place that the birds have chosen to live and lay their eggs. The villagers say that since the arrival of the herons, the village has enjoyed prosperity and has become a tourist attraction. There is a post with a ‘Donations Box’ at the entrance to the village for visitors to contribute to its further prosperity. Getting there: From the traffic lights at the statue in north Peliatan, continue north on the main road towards Tegallalang and Tampaksiring. After 4km, look out for the sign on the left to Petulu. The birds arrive home between 5pm and sunset.

Tegallalang Ceking Ricefield

he wood carving village of Tegallalang, meaning grass fields, is very much a tourist trap, but it is worth braving the hordes of trinket peddlers to view the stunning sculptured rice terraces here. If you are heading north, look for the picture postcard view across the valley on your right-hand side. The location is cool and breezy with lots of small viewing areas where you can stop for refreshments while you take photos. Painters also love this place. A winding river valley is carved into steep embankments, and the long-stemmed ‘padi Bali’ (indigenous Balinese rice) is grown here. Workshops and simple wholesale outlets line the road for 5km, selling all sorts of wooden handicrafts including carved mythical lions, horses, human figures, dogs, dragons, vases, frogs, kangaroos, cats, ornate totems, panels, doors, windows, tables and the many brilliant forms of creativity – extending even to largescale dinosaurs, and some magnificent Garuda statues.

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ACTIVITIES and PLEASURE

Shopping IN UBUD

bud is great for shopping, but knowing where to start and what to buy is probably the hardest part. You may well choose to browse the town’s modern shops, try on locally manufactured clothes, buy some remarkably cheap DVDs, and stop for a cappuccino in an air-conditioned café. Alternatively, if you’re feeling adventurous, you might wish to visit the stone and wood-carving villages in the hinterland; watch traditional craftsmen at work and then break for an orange Fanta and a nasi goreng in a local warung. You could also plod the never-ending main street of Tegallalang, where you will find candles; painted balsa-wood cats, flowers and frogs; batik lampshades; wrought iron photo-frames; bananaleaf boxes and bamboo wind-chimes galore, at half the price you’d pay elsewhere

At Ubud’s market, you can purchase paintings, silk scarves, bags, handmade soft toys, woven baskets and hats, statues, quilted bedcovers, and many other hand-crafted goods, made in the neighbouring villages of Pengosekan, Tegallalang, Payangan and Peliatan. Likewise, at the huge Sukawati Art Market, you will also find handicrafts and traditional handmade products. If you visit Celuk, you will find a three-kilometre stretch lined with silver jewellery outlets. These workshops are always willing to fulfil special orders and will work to any design. Despite the fixed prices, bargaining is essential. Silver pieces are generally weighed and sold by the gram. Batubulan is the place to purchase stone carvings, while Mas is the place to buy woodcarvings.

Most of the glass-fronted shops sell their merchandise at a fixed price, but there is no harm in asking for a discount, especially if you buy more than one item. In the market, street stalls and small shops, where no price is indicated, you are expected to haggle. There is some speculation as to whether or not all of the designer goodies sold in the Armani, Versace, Ralph, Giordano and D&G outlets are the genuine article, but price is usually the best guideline. A high percentage of designer-wear is produced in Indonesia, so if a pair of jeans, for example, appears to be remarkably inexpensive, it is most probably part of the overstock or rejects of a local garment factory contracted to one of these international fashion houses. Very low-priced music CDs, DVDs, computer software and electronic games are most definitely copies, you may get the occasional dud, but it’s worth the risk when you bear in mind that they retail at a fraction of what you’d pay back home. If you are looking to purchase paintings, Ubud is the place to conduct your search. Classic, contemporary and abstract artwork, fine art, folk art and decorative wall panels, can all be found in the town’s numerous galleries and art shops. If it speaks to you – buy it. Meet the artist – the person who knows his artwork better than anybody else. Commission a painting. Prices may not be negotiable in the fine art galleries, but for commercial artwork figures are always “open to discussion.” Happy Shopping!

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Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Gianyar, Bali | Phone: +62361 980970 | Fax: +62361 980969 www.abingterrace.com | abingterrace@gmail.com

Ubud Accommodation

here is a wide choice of accommodation in the Ubud area, ranging from ultra luxury resorts to small local hotels with beautiful pools, gorgeous tropical gardens, family temples and romantic rooms; from bed & breakfast accommodation with Balinese artists to humble homestays and losmen (guesthouses) where you lodge with a local family. In fact, you can even stay in a guestroom in the sumptuous courtyard of the Royal Palace, which is where Ubud’s long tradition of homestays all began. Ubud is famous for its ‘Bali Style’ accommodation, offering a mixture of Western amenities, Balinese architecture, understated open-air design and harmonious aesthetics. The awe-inspiring Sayan Ridge has long been the dramatic location of many unique and splendid residences. This is where, in the 1930s, the American composer Colin McPhee, was inspired to build his home, later engagingly described in his book, ‘A House in Bali’. Numerous other artists and entrepreneurs have since followed suit and the area is now renowned for the world-class architecture of its luxurious hotels and exclusive hideaways, featuring top-notch services and facilities. Apart from international brands such as Four Seasons at Sayan, there are also high-quality local brands including Alila Ubud, plus many boutique properties. The larger hotels often offer a broad choice of accommodation, from standard rooms to pricier up-market suites and private pool villa accommodation. Advance reservations are recommended during the peak July– September and Christmas–New Year periods. Almost all hotels (but not all losmen) add a 21 percent government tax and service charge to your bill. Some smaller ones just add the 11 percent tax. Often, better prices and package rates are available on hotel websites. If you call directly, the unwritten rule is that you can negotiate prices, especially

during the low season. There is generally only a very small difference, or none, between rates for single or double occupancy. If the impersonality of a large hotel does not appeal, opt for a stay at a private villa. Many foreigners and Indonesians have built luxury homes in Ubud, which they rent out to visitors on a daily or weekly basis. Every private villa has a swimming pool and the majority accommodate between two and ten guests and come with every conceivable comfort, including kitchen and dining facilities plus a full complement of staff from housekeepers and cooks to drivers, gardeners, pool attendants and security guards. Stay in a villa in Ubud and you will experience genuine Balinese hospitality, luxury, privacy, superb services and facilities, and very often a privileged insight into the Balinese culture, within some stunningly beautiful locations such as rice fields or jungle, bordered by river–perhaps–or with a mountain view.

ACCOMMODATION SRI RATIH COTTAGES

MELATI COTTAGES

Set amongst the rice paddy fields of Penestanan, Sri Ratih Cottages is a charming and secluded Balinese hotel with a large garden providing a haven of peace and tranquility. Sri Ratih Cottages offers excellent value for money with clean, comfortable accommodation and warm Balinese hospitality that promises wonderful stays for travellers.

This delightful accommodation comprises a choice of ground level and upper floor rooms, all of which have ensuite bathrooms, and balconies looking out over the gardens or neighbouring rice fields. Melati Cottages is located just west of the picturesque town of Ubud and just east of the artist colony village of Penestanan.

Ubud Map Section C, pg 36 - C1

Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Penestanan, Ubud, Bali-Indonesia | P: +62 361 975638 F: +62 361 976550 | E: sriratih@indosat.net.id | W: www.sriratih.com

Jl. Penestanan Kaja, Ubud, Bali - Indonesia | P: +62 361 974650 F: +62 361 975088 | E: info@melati-cottages.com | W :melati-cottages.com

KAMANDHANI COTTAGE

AGUNG RAKA RESORT

Kamandhani Cottage is a charming 3-star hotel set in a prime location in the centre of Ubud. Facilities and services include a restaurant, room service, an outdoor swimming pool, dry cleaning/laundry service and tours/ticket assistance.

Agung Raka Bungalow covers 3,500 square metres of land at Pengosekan, within easy walking distance of the Monkey Forest and central Ubud. The property is built to complement the landscape that surrounds it, within a beautiful village atmosphere with a stunning sunset view over the rice terraces..

Ubud Map Section D, pg 37 - A4

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Jl. Premasanthi 17, Pengosekan, Ubud , Bali - Indonesia | P. +62 361 7814777 E: info@kamandhanicottages.com | W: kamandhanicottages.com

Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, Bali - Indonesia | P: +62 361 975757 | F.+62 361 975546 | E: sales@baliagungrakaresort.com | W: baliagungrakaresort.com

UMA SARI COTTAGE

PURI ASRI VILLA

A traditional style of accommodation, built in 2005 in harmony with the local environment, and set in a lush tropical garden right in the centre of Ubud. Uma Sari Cottage is within comfortable walking distance of dozens of art galleries, restaurants, and shops selling beautiful Balinese souvenirs. It is also close to Ubud Market and the famous Monkey Forest Sanctuary.

Situated in a wood-carvers’ village, this delightful accommodation presents traditional Balinese architecture with modern touches, complemented by a lush garden and two communal swimming pools. The centre of town is easily accessed on foot via the Monkey Forest, which is located at the southern side of Ubud and home to thousands of friendly monkeys.

Ubud Map Section C, pg 36 - D1

Ubud Map Section C, pg 36 - C3

Jl. Bisma, Ubud, Bali - Indonesia | P: +62 361 972964 F: +62 361 981538 | E: info@umasari.com | W: umasari.com

Nyuh Kuning Village, Ubud, Bali - Indonesia | P: +62 361 97255 F: +62 361 972551 | E: info@puriasrivilla.com | W: puriasrivilla.com

Eating Out

ew restaurants, cafes and eateries are popping up in Ubud like mushrooms in the rainy season with hundreds of different dining venues. There is an enormous variety of food available and endless dining possibilities, and you won’t have to go far to find it as Ubud caters for every taste, from street-food served out of boxes balanced on bicycles and prepared at the roadside, to gourmet cuisine found in world-class restaurants. Food stalls and tiny street-side restaurants are known as ‘Warung’ or ‘Rumah Makan’ (literally ‘eating house’) and much of the Indonesian cuisine has been influenced by the early Chinese, Indian, Arabic and Dutch traders and settlers. Padang food from the island of Sumatra is to be found in the ‘Rumah Makan Padang’, eating-houses with glass-fronted cabinets in the windows, piled high with cold vegetables, meats and fish, and served with rice, curried sauces and fiery chilli sambal. Customers choose a selection of dishes to make up a composite meal.

premises, serving some delicious breads, pastries and gateaux. The exciting news for epicures is that with so much competition, standards are high, the choice is wide-ranging and there is something to suit absolutely everybody’s pocket. Please note: most prices in restaurants are ++, this means that 11 percent government tax and between 5 and 10 percent service charge is added. If there is no service charge, a tip is appreciated but not necessarily expected.

International restaurants can also be found in abundance in Ubud, and the range of style, setting, ambience and, of course, cuisine is huge, with often extensive menus. Up-market buildings or romantic, open-air Balinese pavilions serve fabulous food from Australia, Europe, The Mediterranean, Italy, France, Holland, Mexico, Asia, India, China, Japan, Thailand, Bali, and the Indonesian archipelago… you name it! Other restaurants introduce further dimensions of flavour by specialising in seafood, comfort food, vegetarian and vegan cuisine, or a touch of fusion. Five-star resorts boast magnificent restaurants and top international chefs whose luscious creations not only feature premium imported ingredients, but also the high quality, fresh, and organic produce of this fertile little island. Fine wines from around the world are readily available, albeit rather expensive, and many of the restaurants have their own bakeries on the

As you walk through the doors of some of these eateries, you may be excused for believing that you have been transported from the tropical island of Bali to – for example – a Mediterranean island on the other side of the world. Many restaurants offer alfresco dining in prestigious locations overlooking the rice fields or a steep-sided river gorge. Others are situated on busy streets but they invite you to escape from the noise and fumes of the traffic, the mosquitoes, the elements and, perhaps, the buzz and atmosphere of Ubud, to bring you a truly exceptional experience, in absolute comfort, without any distractions that might blight your pleasure. Expect chic décor, and constantly evolving, sophisticated menus. The testimony is in the tasting…

Balinese Dances

alinese art performances are visual, entertaining and exciting, and can be appreciated by adults and children of all ages. Performances take place daily on the open stage at Ubud Palace, and in many of Ubud’s surrounding villages, as well as being an integral part of almost every temple festival. There are numerous dance troupes on the island and many different Balinese dance dramas, most of which have evolved from sacred rituals. The dances are often typified by subtle, controlled gestures and a fixed mask-like face with unfocused eyes and closed lips. The dancer’s limbs form precise angles and the head sinks down so far that the neck disappears. At other times, gestures replicate nature, hands flutter like a bird in flight, and limbs follow sudden changes of direction as the performers move in slow horizontal zigzagging circles. The eyes become expressive and beguiling as they flicker and dance, and movements become jerky. Legong Dance

The Legong Dance is the most refined of all the temple dances, a quintessential display of Balinese grace and femininity performed by three young girls. There are various forms of this dance, the most common being the Legong Karaton, based on a classic twelfth-century tale from Java about a princess held captive by a wicked king. Kecak Dance

The spectacular Kecak Dance is performed by a chorus of bare-chested men wearing black and white poleng cloth around the waist and a single red hibiscus flower behind the ear. Sitting in a circle, the actors play the role of both the cappella choir and the props, providing non-stop musical accompaniment in the form of hypnotic vocal chants. Barong Dance

The Barong Dance portrays the eternal fight between good and evil. The players are the Barong Keket, a shaggy lion-like creature; and Rangda, the hideous and evil widow-witch. The mischievous, fun-loving Barong represents everything that is good,

while Rangda is the personification of evil incarnate, embodying every imaginable negative and destructive force. Joged Dance

The Joged Bumbung is an exclusively secular dance, in which a brightly dressed female dancer invites men from the audience to dance with her in the pretence of seduction. The Joged is particularly popular after the harvest or a great religious festival, and the music is created with Bumbung (bamboo) instruments. Frog Dance

The Genggong Frog Dance is a dance-drama telling the story of a frog that marries a princess. The performance starts off with the frog and his followers dancing around the stage in a comic fashion. Later in the story, the frog is exposed as an under-cover prince and the princess falls in love. Topeng Dance

The Topeng Dance, usually reserved for temple festivals and rituals, is a challenging drama, highly demanding of an actor’s talent. A masked play and reminiscent of an opera, the dancer has to imitate the character represented by the mask. The stories are taken from episodes of war and intrigue throughout Balinese History. The Ramayana Ballet

The Ramayana Ballet, a Hindu epic and timeless love story, follows Rama and Sita through many trials, tribulations and battles against evil, in their quest for true love. Traditionally it is believed that all who recite or listen to The Ramayana on a regular basis will find increased love, wisdom and strength.

UBUD CULTURE DANCE PERFORMANCES

S M T W T 52

SUNDAY Legong of Mahabrata Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Legong Dance Janger Dance Jegog (bamboo gamelan) Kecak Fire & Trance Dance

Ubud palace-open stage Padang tegal kaja-open stage Ubud main road-Oka Kartini Arma-open stage Ubud water palace-open stage Bentuyung village Batukaru temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

MONDAY Legong Dance Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Ramayana & Fire Dance Legong Telek Women's Performance

Ubud palace-open stage Wantilan Padang Tegal kelod Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Arma-open stage Bale banjar Ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

TUESDAY Ramayana Ballet Kecak Fire & Trance dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Legong Dance Trance Dance

Ubud palace-open stage Pura Taman Sari-Padang Tegal kelod Kertha accom-monkey forest strait Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Bale banjar Ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

WEDNESDAY Legong & Barong Dance Mask Dance (topeng jimat) Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Jegog (bamboo gamelan)

Ubud palace-open stage Arma-open stagr Ubud main road-Oka Kartini Yamasari stage-Peliatan open stage Padang tegal kaja-open stage Pura dalem Ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

THURSDAY Kecak (monkey chant dance) Legong Dance Barong & Keris Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong Dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet)

Puri agung Peliatan Jaba pura Kutuh village Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Pura taman sari-Padang tegal kelod Bale banjar Ubud kelod Pondok bambu-monkey forest strait

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

FRIDAY Barong Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Kulit (shadow puppet) Jegog (bamboo gamelan) Barong & Keris Dance

Ubud palace-open stage Balerung stage Peliatan Pura Padang Kerta-Padang Tegal kelod Ubud main road-Oka Kartini Bentuyung village Arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 5.30 pm

SATURDAY Legong Dance Legong Dance Frog Dance Legong Dance Kecak Fire & Trance Dance Wayang Wong Dance

Ubud palace-open stage Ubud water palace Bale banjar Ubud kelod Pura dalem Ubud-open stage Pura dalem Taman kaje-open stage Arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

Pure desa Batuan-0pen stage

7.00 pm

Every 1st and 15th: Gambuh Dance

F S

Ubud Spas

ince the late 1990s, spas in Ubud have sprouted, grown and blossomed like lotus flowers. Something that was once the domain of the rich, the privileged and the famous has, at last, become accessible to everyone. Weariness and tension caused by hectic work schedules and daily chores that continue to demand an increasing amount of our time and energy, can affect the mind, body, and soul. More and more people are discovering that far from being a mere luxury, opportunities to enjoy a soothing yet regenerating experience are becoming progressively more essential, but somewhat more elusive, in our busy lives today. Spas and spa retreats provide us with the atmosphere and the facilities in which to re-balance, and release our pent-up stress, as well as the holistic concept of healing and nurturing both the inner and outer self. Healing therapies, spiritual cleansing, massage and beauty rituals are all an integral part of everyday communal life in Bali, where people have realised the importance of taking time for themselves and paying respect to their bodies. Ancient Balinese remedies were recorded in Sanskrit on pages of lontar palm leaf and passed down through generations of medicine men, yet the traditions associated with health and rejuvenation are secrets whose origins have been lost in time. In addition to traditional Balinese treatments and massage, therapies may include Ayurvedics, hot stone massage, Thai massage, Reiki and barefoot Shiatsu, while facilities may include saunas and medicated steam rooms.

of the body, restoring inner harmony, and replenishing and enlivening the jaded spirit. It is here that the very best ingredients of both Eastern and Western health techniques are gently blended with sweet aromas, mellow sounds and the flourishing greenery of tropical gardens. The architecture and interior décor of Ubud’s day spas and spa retreats ranges from Zen-inspired simplicity to eclectic opulence. Others are romantic, rustic and traditional, featuring antique doors, hand-carved furnishings and whimsical ornaments. Fabrics may be natural loosewoven cottons in fresh tones of ivory and ecru, or rich luxuriant silks. Products and aromatic oils are stored in recycled glass bottles and jars with cork stoppers or, perhaps, ornate ceramic pots with silver lids. Water is always a key element in Balinese spas – not surprisingly, as it is bountifully provided by the rains and the sea, ritualised by the Hindus in the form of holy water, and drunk by the gods for immortality. Open-air bathrooms and pavilions house outdoor showers; oversized sunken bathtubs brim with rose petals; tranquil lotus ponds are garnished with mossencrusted statues, and cascading fountains are the backdrops of exotic blooms. The sense of smell is embraced by a seductive layering of scents emanating from essential oils, spicy smouldering incense, aromatic candles and fragrant flowers. Accompanied by a background melody of enigmatic music, birdsong and trickling water, guests are massaged and eased into a higher dimension of lingering bliss.

Ubud’s spas are a feast for the senses. These timeless, natural havens of serenity are dedicated to the pampering

SPAS • HEALING • BEAUTY TREATMENTS THE KAYMA SPA

BALI BOTANICA DAY SPA

The Kayma Spa is a hidden traditional day spa in Ubud, surrounded by a lush garden and beautiful rice fields. In keeping with our principles, all of Kayma Spa products are made with natural ingredients. We offer you a unforgettable spa treatment in Ubud.

Bali Botanica Day Spa offers superior body treatments in a serene, natural environment, overlooking bird-filled jungle, rice fields and a flowing creek. Here, a team of centred and well-trained therapists is dedicated to delivering a sense of wellness and genuine relaxation.

Ubud Map Section C, pg 36 - D2

Ubud Map Section A, pg 34 - C3

Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Penestanan, Ubud, Bali-Indonesia | P: +62 361 975638 F: +62 361 976550 | E: sriratih@indosat.net.id | W: www.sriratih.com

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, Bali-Indonesia | P: +62 361 976739 W: www.balibotanica.com

SEDONA SPA

MILANO SALON

Established in 2004, Sedona Spa refreshingly combines affordable pricing and high quality. Packages include body massage, body scrub and mask, and a warm infusion bath of fresh flowers. Enter Sedona Spa heavy and burdened, leave light, refreshed and invigorated.

Devoted to bringing you back to balance with rituals for your mind and body. We offer hair cutting and styling, manicures and pedicures, massages, foot reflexology, body scrubs and other assorted beauty treatments.

Ubud Map Section A, pg 34 - C4

Ubud Map Section C, pg 36 - D2

Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud, Bali-Indonesia | P: +62 361 975770 Close to Bintang Super Market

Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali-Indonesia | P: +62 361 973488 E: prs_milano@yahoo.com

FRESH! SPA

JIWA RAGA SPA

Fresh! Spa is a quaint little natural spa located on the side of a river, and across from an ancient Banyan tree, right in the heart of Ubud. Treatments include: body massage, foot soak and massage, body scrubs, natural facials, ear candling, manicure & pedicure, hair cream bath, keratin hair treatments, waxing, and more.

Jiwa means soul, and Raga means body. Jiwa Raga Spa is a special place for people who want to nurture their body, mind, and soul. The practitioners here welcome you to come, relax, and feel at home.

Ubud Map Section D, pg 37 - A1

Ubud Map Section D, pg 37 - A3

Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud, Bali-Indonesia | P: +62 361 8493677 E: fresh@freshspabali.com

Jl. Raya Hanoman Padang Tegal, Ubud, Bali-Indonesia | P: +62 361 2074003 E: jiwaraga.spa.wellness@gmail.com

BISMA EIGHT Set within the natural and cultural heart of Ubud, Bisma Eight is a boutique hotel comprising 38 suites; a communal, temperaturecontrolled swimming pool, delicately balanced over lush Balinese jungle; a fully-equipped gymnasium; an organic farm; a restaurant; cafe; pool bar; and rooftop garden. Each suite blends modern design with traditional Balinese craftsmanship. Guests can choose from three accommodation options: The Forest Suites are situated near The Pool Pavilion and The Pool, offering sweeping panoramas that evoke the sense of a hidden tree-house, complete with a front-row sunset view from each private balcony. Overlooking the Canopy Courtyard and the distant jungle, each of the Canopy Suites features a shady private balcony with bamboo railings and cascading vines. Tucked into Bisma Eight’s Canopy Courtyard, each of the ground-floor Garden Suites is characterised by a private outdoor garden and vibrant

greenscaping. All of the suites have large living spaces that can be screened off from the sleeping areas, which are furnished with king-size beds and accented with Balinese art to make each stay feel both indulgent and effortlessly comfortable. In-room facilities include a 40-inch flat screen TV, a Japanese inspired soaking tub, a VTO rain shower system, highspeed WiFi, a mini-fridge and a safe deposit box. Every Bisma Eight dining experience begins at Bisma Gardens, the nearby organic farm. Bisma Gardens’ organic

produce is the secret to The Copper Kitchen & Bar’s fresh and modern Asian cuisine, serving food from and for the soul. The Library Cafe offers guests a chance to sit and relax in the company of literature and coffee. Finally, The Pool Pavilion is Bisma Eight’s take on the poolside Tiki Bar – a place of ultimate and total relaxation. Bisma Eight Jl. Bisma, Ubud, 80571, Bali P: (+62) 361 4792 888 F: (+62) 361 4792 999 E: reservations@bisma-eight.com W: www.bisma-eight.com

Yoga in Ubud

veryone needs to take time away from daily routines and outer demands, and everyone needs equilibrium of mind, body and soul. Whether you happen to be a hard-core ‘Yogaphile’ or a traveller on a voyage of self-discovery, you will find that the peaceful surroundings of Ubud are perfect for the practice of yoga.

Although yoga is best known as a type of exercise system that stretches and strengthens the body through various poses, or ‘asanas’, it actually goes far beyond a mere exercise routine. In fact, yoga is a spiritual science of self-realisation; an ancient Indian ‘body of knowledge’ that dates back more than 5000 years. The word yoga comes from the Sanskrit ‘Yuj’, meaning to unite; the purpose is to unite the body with the mind, and the mind with the soul. The methods, therefore, encompass the entire field of human existence – the physical, the emotional, the mental and the spiritual – through ethical disciplines, physical postures, breath control and meditation. There are many different schools of yoga, all of which have their own unique practices and philosophies. The regular practice of asanas and breathing exercises will make the body strong, supple and healthy. It will improve circulation, stimulate the inner organs, glands and nerves, and open the body in preparation for meditation, deep relaxation and a meditative perspective on life. This in turn leads to greater energy, better concentration, and a happier, more fulfilling existence. Many common physical ailments can also be improved through the practice of yoga. Each of the asanas has specific physical benefits; each is held for a period of time and synchronised with breath control practices, known as pranayama. Generally, a yoga session begins with gentle asanas and works up to the more vigorous or challenging postures. The poses can be performed quickly in succession, creating heat in the body through movement, or more slowly to increase stamina while perfecting the posture alignment. A full yoga session should exercise every part of the body and should also include relaxation. Typically, a 60 or 90-minute yoga class will focus on the physical benefits of yoga, while a yoga retreat may delve more into the spiritual side.

The meditative practice of yoga can realise or awaken an individual’s spiritual essence, ultimately leading to a wordless and timeless experience of inner peace. Yoga retreats offer the opportunity to develop or deepen practice with the help of Visiting Masters; teaching methods are generally exacting and dynamic without being over-challenging. The practice of yoga can therefore be enjoyed by everyone, as each individual will work to his or her own comfortable level without being pushed beyond personal limitations. If you are looking for regular, ongoing yoga practice in the Ubud area, there are a number of hotels, spas and yoga centres offering daily or weekly classes, which are open to everyone. Check out www.theyogabarn. com for schedules. Yoga teachers make their art accessible to all ages and body types by adapting techniques to individual needs. The emphasis is to help the students to find a personal relationship with their yoga practice, and the result is a joyous and freeflowing ritual. Anyone can practice yoga; it is never too late or too early in life to take it up, and the holistic outlook is one of the most compelling reasons to begin.

Sports and Adventure

ali presents a wealth of outdoor activities for all ages, from sea sports to golf, horse-riding and bird watching. There are also a number of specialist adventure tour companies, offering exciting excursions such river rafting, mountain cycling, jungle trekking and 4-wheel-drive expeditions. Most companies provide a door-to-door pick-up and drop-off service. Horse Riding

Diving

There are plenty of several stables offering riding adventures through rice fields, villages, monsoon forest, and along the beach. All treks are accompanied by personal guides and lessons can be arranged. Most stables provide a good selection of well-trained horses with varying temperaments, energies and sizes to suit all ages and levels of experience.

Bali is the ideal location for learning to dive or diving for pleasure among some of the world’s finest tropical reefs. The water is warm and the marine life is abundant. Bali’s reputable dive schools and operators offer facilities, equipment and tuition for every PADI course from beginners’ discovery dives to the highest recreational level.

Golf

Snorkelling

The golfing options in Bali are quite outstanding and golfers come from all over the world to play on the island’s top class, championship golf courses, which are set in contrasting coastal and mountain locations. These magnificent playgrounds are all open to non-members.

The waters all around the island offer some excellent opportunities for snorkelling, suitable for all levels including beginners. Explore a shipwreck in Tulamben; discover pristine corals and maybe a manta ray at Nusa Penida, some beautiful reefs and colourful fish at Padang Bai, and the gigantic gorgonian sea fans at Menjangan National Marine Park.

Jungle Trekking & Mountain Climbing

Experienced guides will take visitors on anything from gentle hikes through rice fields, jungle, rainforests and national parkland, to challenging mountain treks in the dry season. Mountain Cycling

Starting around 1100 metres above sea level, each mountain cycling tour is an exhilarating descent through farms, hamlets and lush valleys, past ancient temples and beautiful rice fields.

Sea Cruises

There are numerous ocean cruise options departing from Benoa Harbour, including sunset cruises, day trips, and luxury yacht cruises exploring the neighbouring islands. If you appreciate privacy on the seas, we can arrange for you to charter an elegant catamaran, complete with snorkelling, scuba and fishing gear.

Surfing

Bali is renowned as one of the great surfing meccas of the world, offering over 20 top-quality breaks. The peak surf season is April through October when the southeast trade winds blow offshore and the full force of the solid southern ocean swells hit the reefs around Kuta, Nusa Dua, and the Bukit Peninsula. Meanwhile, for novices and surfers of intermediate ability, there are plenty of mellow beachbreaks and a good choice of well-managed surf schools. Rafting

White water rafting is an action-packed journey through class II and III rapids, against an awesome backdrop of pristine rainforest, towering gorges, emerald rice terraces and dramatic waterfalls on the Ayung, Telaga Waja and Unda Rivers. Bali Hash House Harriers

There are several Hash House Harriers running clubs in Bali. The beautiful routes cover terraced rice fields and deep tropical jungle ravines. There is generally a short run of 45 – 60 minutes, and a long run of 60 – 90 minutes. Eco Tours

Eco tours are an opportunity to experience Bali “by and for the people”. Local guides will give you a unique insight into their world of village life.

BALI ARTS and FESTIVALS

Bali Arts & Crafts

rt is omnipresent in Bali. Inseparable from the cultural and spiritual practice of the communities, it plays an intense role in daily life, and can be seen everywhere from elaborately-carved doors, stone statues and wood sculptures, to fabulous paintings, masks, textiles, jewellery, and beautifully-crafted offerings to the gods.

It is in the symbolically decorative adornment of palaces and temples, however, where we find the roots of Balinese art. For centuries, artists, artisans and craftsmen in Bali worked under the patronage of the priests and the ruling classes, decorating the royal courts with carved wooden panels, silken wall hangings and stone sculptures. Extraordinary statues, bas relief, gilded parasols and highly ornate doorways and pillars continue to grace the island's myriad temples, where stone carved demons and mythical symbols provide protection from evil spirits. These artists of old never signed their work; paintings were produced collaboratively and therefore anonymously, and the men usually lived close together in artists' villages. Generally they had little room for personal expression as their rendering of figures and ornamentations had to follow strictly prescribed religious rules and aesthetic guidelines. At that time, Balinese traditional paintings were restricted to what is now known as the Kamasan or Wayang style - two-dimensional visual narratives taken from Hindu mythology and drawn on cloth or bark paper with the colouring limited to natural dyes. Things began to change, however, with the arrival of avant-garde foreign artists in the 1920s and 30s, such as Walter Spies, Rudolf Bonnet, Arie Smit and Adrien-Jean Le Mayeur who acted as agents of change by encouraging individual freedom of expression, while promoting departure from the confining traditions by providing painting media and introducing western painting

concepts, such as perspective techniques, picture and colour composition and human anatomy. The result was an explosion of highly individualist artwork that led to the birth of the modern traditional style of Balinese painting. The Ubud painters particularly embraced this liberating revolution with courage and enthusiasm. Likewise, Balinese woodcarving underwent a similar stylistic evolution during the 1930s. Walter Spies and Rudolf Bonnet encouraged woodcarvers to explore sleek new styles and carving techniques while adopting simple, naïve themes of daily life. Comprised of fine hardwood, which was sanded and finished without paint, the woodcarvings became fluid and elongated. The artisans polished their work to a fine sheen so that each piece was smooth and tactile. Ida Bagus Nyana and Cokot were the two most famous woodcarvers from this era, and their productive careers took them into the 1960s and 70s. Most of today's Balinese sculpture is inspired by their works. A second movement of painters, born of European influence, occurred in the early 60s, with the arrival of Arie Smit to the village of Penestanan. He encouraged the artists in this area to explore and experiment with vivid colours and more simple abstract forms. The paintings in this style are much more expressionist, with little attention to detail or perspective.

If you wish to buy artwork here, you will find it to be incredibly accessible and remarkably inexpensive, but if you are a newcomer to the art world, and feel intimidated about making a purchase, it is best to go into the process armed with some knowledge, and then start looking for a piece within your budget. A good idea is to first learn a little bit about Bali's classical artwork by visiting some of Ubud's museums of art. The famous Pita Maha style of painting depicts human figures and scenes from everyday Balinese life, while other classical works feature wayang figures, rich floral designs and flame-and-mountain motifs. When you are ready to buy, you will find that Ubud - Bali's artistic hub - is the most obvious place to conduct your search. Classic, contemporary and abstract paintings, fine art, folk art, framed photographs and decorative wall panels can all be found in the Town's numerous galleries, studios, art shops and markets. If it speaks to you - buy it! Meet the artist - the person who knows his artwork better than anybody else! Commission a painting! Prices may not be negotiable in the fine art galleries, but for commercial artwork figures are always `open to discussion'.

DON'T

Take your time If you find a piece that you like, put it on hold and go back for another look before buying. Research Browse the galleries and check out some exhibitions to get a feel for your taste. Buy what you like Follow your heart. As long as you are drawn to a painting, and as long as you like it, your money won’t be wasted. Remember, you are the one who has to look at it everyday. Buy from up and coming artists Find quality pieces by Bali's art school graduates, or new artists who haven't been featured in an exhibition before and therefore still sell their work for a reasonable price.

Overspend Stick to your budget so that you don't have regrets. Be scared to ask Galleries can be daunting places but the staff will help you. If you like a piece, find out about it. If you don't know where to start, ask for advice. Be pressured into buying Just because someone gives you the hard sell, it doesn't mean you have to buy. Be swayed by trends or fame The work of an award winning artist or the latest trend in abstract expressionism might be the last thing you want on your wall, so don't feel you have to pursue the idea.

Ubud, Bali Festivals 1. Ubud Writers & Readers Festival

The international Ubud Writers & Readers Festival takes place each year in October. Hailed as “One of the six best literary festivals in the world,” the event delivers intellectual and sensory stimulation to the hundreds of writers and readers. Look forward to a packed programme of workshops, discussions, interviews, readings, poetry slams, literary lunches and book launches galore. 2. Bali Arts Festival

The Bali Arts Festival is an annual fiesta of Balinese and Indonesian artistic traditions and culture. It last for a full month and is held at Bali Arts Centre, Taman Budaya, in Denpasar. The festival showcases daily cultural performances, dance dramas, theatre, traditional and modern music, historical exhibitions, classical palace dances, handicraft exhibitions, garment and jewellery exhibitions, puppet shows, competitions and other related cultural commercial activities, presented by every region in Bali and beyond. The opening parade takes place in mid-June with a procession

of cultural treasures from all the regencies in Bali, starting from Puputan Margarana Square, Niti Mandala, Denpasar. 3. Bali Kite Festival

The Bali Kite Festival is held every year in July when the winds are strong. It takes place at Padanggalak, Sanur, and is actually a seasonal religious festival intended to send a message to the gods for abundant crops and harvests. Traditional giant kites, up to 4 x 10 metres in size, are made and flown competitively by teams from different villages. 4. Nusa Dua Fiesta

The Nusa Dua Fiesta is a culinary and cultural gala week of special events, exhibitions and activities that takes place in October. It incorporates Bali’s finest performing arts, street performers, music, theatre, dance, fashion shows, food bazaars, and the prestigious Culinary Challenge for Professional Chefs. There are also trade exhibitions of handicrafts and products from across Indonesia, and sporting events with races, games, competitions, a bowling championship and a kids’ carnival.

5. Ubud Village Jazz Festival

The Ubud Village Jazz Festival is held annually in August in the grounds of the magnificent Arma Museum, Ubud, with performances by a range of acclaimed jazz musicians from around the world, including some renowned musicians from Indonesia and others from as far afield as the USA and Europe. Every year has a different theme. 6. Bali Spirit Festival

The BaliSpirit Festival is a vibrant and uplifting annual international celebration of yoga, dance and music. Held near Ubud in March- April each of year, this international, energy-charged event showcases the world’s best in health, yoga, lifestyle, wellbeing, world music, community and social change. In a synergy of global cultural collaboration and non-denominational spiritual practice, the Festival provides unique opportunities to experience personal shift and transformation.

7. Sanur Village Festival

Every August, the Sanur Village Festival is a community event presenting a bazaar and food festival, a culinary challenge, creative exhibitions, an environmental care programme, various contests and competitions, art and cultural attractions, music, a fishing tournament, a fashion show, a village cycling tour, a yoga performance, a golf tournament, and various types of environmentally-friendly activities. 8. DENPASAR FESTIVAL

The Denpasar Festival is held every year at the end of December and attracts many thousands of visitors to Bali’s capital city. The centre for the event is the Catur Muka (Four Faces) area of the city. The event

is organised by the Denpasar government and it is a showcase highlighting the diversity, richness and creativity of the city. The entertainment includes exhibitions and culinary, floral and agricultural displays. There are stalls, seminars, art and culture, including both the traditional and modern aspects of Balinese life, especially displays of Balinese dance and art. There is always a colourful and exotic parade to finish the festival.. 9. Legian Beach Festival

The Legian Beach Festival is held every August along the beach front between Jl Padma and Jl Melasti, Legian. Visitors can enjoy exhibitions, stands selling handcrafts, jewellery, clothing and accessories, and of course a diverse

range of foods. On stage are cultural performances and live music, while the beach area hosts competitions, food carving demonstrations, traditional weaving demonstrations, and exciting activities for children with opportunities for prizes. 10. Balinale International Film Festival

This annual festival in October invites film industry professionals, including actors, directors, producers and screenwriters, to expose Indonesia's film locations, talent and stories, while also bringing upcoming young Indonesian filmmakers to world cinema. For film buffs, the festival screens a packed programme of award-winning films and movie premieres.

UBUD, GIANYAR REGENCY by made maryana • image pmp

OCTOBER 2015 October 3, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: “Tumpek Uye or Tumpek Kandang” day, when blessing ceremony is given to Cattle or livestock at every for good growth and product. Throughout Bali Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Puseh and Pura Desa, downtown of Gianyar regency October 7, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Tarukan, Cemenggaon village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency Pura Penataran Dalem Ketut, Pejeng Kaja village,district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency Pura Merajan Agung Blangsinga village, district Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency October 13, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Benawah village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency Pura Dalem Bitra village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency Pura Tengah Padang, Tegalalang village, Gianyar regency Pura Tengkulak, Tulikup village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyan regency October 14, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Puri Agung Tarukan, Pejeng village, district of Tampaksiring, Gianyar regency Pura Tirta Anom, Padangsipi, Sading n

village, district of Tegalalang , Gianyar regency October 27, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Penataran Agung, Sukawati, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency October 28, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Agung Gunung Raung, Taro Kaja village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency n

NOVEMBER 2015 November 7, 2015 “Tumpek Wayang” it is special day for puppeteers, when blessing ceremony is given to shadow puppet playset music instrument etc for magic all power and proper function. Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Bhatara Ratu Gde, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency November 11, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Melanting Cemenggaon village, district of Sukawati , Gianyar regency Pura Gaduhan Jagat, Singakerta village, district of Ubud , Gianyar regency Pura Masceti, Sanding village, district of Tampaksiring , Gianyar regency November 17, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Batuyang village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n

Pura Desa and Pura Pucak, Bedulu village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency November 18, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Samprangan village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency November 26, 2015 Pura Dalem Putra Balingkang, Benawah village, Gianyar regency. November 28, 2015 “Saraswati “ holiday, the day devoted to Sanghyang Aji Saraswati, when blessing ceremony is held for holi scriptire, books of art, knowledges and sciences, and people pray for wisdon and wits, throughout Bali. n

DECEMBER 2015 December 2, 2015 “Pagerwesi“ holiday, the word literally means Iron Fence people pray to Sanghyang Paramesti Guru (lord of the universe), for strong mental defence in facing wordly temtation, more lively celebrated in north Bali Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Laban Sindu Jiwa, Kedewatan village, Gianyar regency Pura Payogan Agung, Ketewel village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency December 12, 2015 “Tumpek Landep “ day, the day devoted Sanghyang Pasupati (God as the lord of all metal implements), when blessing n

CULTURAL EVENT | OCT 2015 - JAN 2016 ceremony is given to heirl room, sacret, weapons, all implements and tool made of metal for proper function and magical power, throughout Bali, speciallt at smiths garages and work shop throughout Bali. Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Tenggaling, Singapadu village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency. Pura Penataran Agung Penatih, Tulikup village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency. Pura Dalem Pingit, Taro Kaja village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency December 22, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Penataran Tangkas, Sukawati village, of Gianyar regency. Pura Puseh Lembeng, Ketewel village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency. Pura Sanghyang Tegal, Taro kaja village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency December 25, 2015 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Cemenggaon village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency Pura Desa Celuk village, district of Sukawati , Gianyar regency n

Pura Pasek Ketewel, Ketewel village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency January 16, 2016 “ Tumpek Pengatag “ day devoted to Ida Sanghyang Widhi Wasa / almighty god as “ Sanghyang Sangkara “. Lood of all food plant and vegetarian, when blessing cere moniesare focused at gardens, rice fields and plantation, for good crops and products troghtout Bali Temple anniversary celebrations at : Pura Puseh and Pura Desa, Batuan village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency January 20, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: n

Pura Ratu Pasek Besakih (The Mother Temple) complex, district of Rendang Pura Dalem Batur village, district of Kintamani, Bangli regency January 26, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dalem Waturenggong, Taro kaja village, district of Tegalalang, Gianyar regency January 27, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Dadya Agung Pasek Sanak Sapta Rsi, Sidan village, district of Blahbatuh, Gianyar regency n

JANUARY 2016 January 6, 2016 Temple anniversary celebrations at: Pura Puseh and Pura Desa Guwang village, district of Sukawati, Gianyar regency n

Tips for First Time Visitors ATTITUDE

Good manners are very important to Indonesian people, and since you will be treated as an honoured guest in this country, it is only right to repay that courtesy by showing respect for the traditions and culture. Never touch somebody’s head unless you become a very close friend, don’t touch people with your left hand and don’t stretch out your feet to the direction of a nearby person. When you’re travelling around if something goes wrong, you will have to accept that there is no such thing as a “disaster”. Maintain your sense of humour. relax and let yourself roll with the punches rather than getting upset. The Indonesian mentality hardly ever shows anger so this will not be understood unless something really heavy is happening. COMMUNICATION

The Indonesian language which is spoken nationally is very easy to learn. Even a few words will be rewarded by much excitement. Although English is widely spoken in the tourism industry, keep your conversation simple, don’t cause confusion by conversing too quickly in your own local slang or in a complicated manner. Avoid misunderstandings by speaking slowly, simply and clearly. ON THE ROAD

The traffic in Bali is ruled by common sense. Give way to everything in front of you, no matter if this is a vehicle you intend to overtake which suddenly turns into your lane or somebody pulling out from a side road. Also give way to anyone pulling into your lane or somebody pulling out from a side road. Also give way to anything bigger than you Bikes, especially, are in a very weak position. Expect the unexpected – animals crossing, processions crowding

the road or invisible holes covered by water. Using the vehicle's horn in Indonesia is a precaution and not meant in an offensive manner. Use it to let people know you’re there, when you’re about to overtake, if they look like they’re going to stray into your path, or if there is any confusing situation developing in front of you. Don’t get angry if other road users don’t drive the way you’re used to in your own country, or if they don’t appear to use any common sense at all. It is a waste of time getting upset, the other person will have no idea what you’re angry about. DRESS CODE

The Balinese, while modestly dressed themselves, are very forgiving when it comes to tourists’ attire. However walking around town in Speedos or a bikini is not really appreciated. When entering temples you are required to wear a sarong and a sash, you’ll see that the temples themselves are similarly attired. If you have to visit a government office, long sleeves, long trousers/skirt and shoes are advisable. Pack light, natural fabrics – and don’t pack too many clothes, as there are plenty of cheap clothing shops all over Bali! CHILDREN

All Balinese people adore children. Your children will be welcome absolutely everywhere. At the beach, especially on the Kuta, Legian, Seminyak coast, keep a good eye on your children when they’re in the water. There are dangerous rips. HEALTH RISKS

Health risks are fairly minimal, although there’s always the risk of Bali Belly - don’t drink the tap water;

be careful what you eat. Choose to eat at places that seem busy and popular. Protect yourself from mosquitoes, especially in the rainy season when there can be dengue fever outbreaks in closely populated areas! Be aware that on islands other than Bali, malaria can be endemic – the mountain country in Lombok for example, so take adequate precautions. VISA - ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

With effect from 1st October 2015, citizens of 92 countries (including Australia) will receive a free 30day visaon-arrival. Please note these visas-on-arrival are nonextendable, so if 30 days is not enough, you should get a tourist visa from an Indonesian Embassy or Consulate before you arrive. Your passport must be valid for at least 6 months beyond your stay and have several empty pages; be prepared to show a ticket out of the country.

is okay, however this can change. Torn or dirty notes will often be refused. MONEYCHANGERS

When you receive your Rupiah, count it yourself and then do not put it down! You will be better off changing money only at those outlets that specialise in changing money and not at retail shops which offer money change facilities as an extra. ATMs are now widespread, particularly in the most touristy areas.

TIME ZONE

Indonesia has three time zones. Bali is GMT+8hrs. CLIMATE

The rainy season is officially October – March, but it varies yearly. There is diving year-round although the best seasons are April & May and September – November. Remember to apply sunscreen. ELECTRICITY

220 volts. Bring a plug adaptor with you. MONEY

CURRENCY Indonesian Rupiah. Changing a variety of foreign currencies in tourist areas is no problem, but it can be difficult in out of the way places, so if you’re heading up-country, bring enough rupiah with you. NOTE: because of widespread counterfeiting, banks and moneychangers will only accept certain years and series of US Dollar banknotes. Generally speaking any note issued after 2003

COMPANY LISTING

CERAMICS

APOTEK Kimia Farma Jl. Raya Peliatan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972193 Apotik Ubud Farma Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974214 Apotik Merta Sari Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972357 Tjampuhan Farma Jl. Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 2799911

BANKS Bank OCBC NISP - Ubud Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972701 Bank Permata Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978048 Bank Tabungan Negara (Persero) Jl. Raya Jembawan, 1, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975764 Bank Danamon Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975405 Bank Nusantara Parahyangan Jl. Raya Ubud, 177, Ubud Phone: +62 361 980422 Bank BCA Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud 10, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975957 Bank Pembangunan Daerah Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 977509

BARS Bar Luna Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud (Casa Luna) Phone: +62 361 971832 Bollero Jl. RayaDewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972872 Cafe Havana Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972973 Laughing Buddha Bar Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970928 Mingle Cafe & Bar Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975880 Roug Bali Jl. Raya Bisma, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971424 The Melting Pot Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 081 57689113

Gaya Ceramic Arts Centre Jl. Raya Sayan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976220 Kevala Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 4792532 Sari Api Ceramic Studio Jl. Raya Suweta, Br Bentuyung, 3 km north of Ubud Palace, Ubud Phone: +62 081 2466 0919 Setia Ceramic Studio Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 081 2466 0919 Ubud Ceramic Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971244 UM. A-B4

A-Z OF UBUD

EMERGENCY

HOTEL

JEWELRY

Prima Medika Clinic Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: +62 082 3831 5697 Ubud Clinic Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 082 3831 5697 Toya Clinic Jl. Raya Pengosekan , Ubud Phone: +62 082 3831 5697

Alam Ubud Villa Desa Kendran, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8790999 Arma Resort Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976659 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975478 Murni’s Villas Jl. Raya Payangan, Ponggang Phone: +62 361 7441480 Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Raya Kajeng, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974393 Sri Ratih Cottages Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975638 Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970388 Terrace Abing Resort Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: +62 361 980970 Villa Sonia Hotel Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971307

Studio Perak Jl. Raya Hanoman, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974244 Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 2365 1809 Toko Bead Jl. Raya Hanoman, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7491770 YIN Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970718 Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8468510 Jl. Raya Hanoman, Ubud Phone: +62 3617801879

FURNITURE Adhiguna Furniture Jl. Raya Mas, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8759792, 7882921 Cakrabali Furniture Jl. Raya Mas, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972509 DEK’S Studio Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 973361

GALLERY Agung Rai Fine Art Jl. Raya Peliatan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974562 Seniwati Gallery Jl. Raya Sriwedari, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975485 Tanah Tho Gallery Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7816785 Tony Raka Gallery Jl. Raya Mas, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974538

INTERNET Bali 3000 Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978538 Hubud Jl. Raya monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978073

MUSEUMS ARMA (Agung Rai Museum of Art) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974228 Antonio Blanco Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975779

NIGHT LIFE Bunute Bar Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972177 CP Lounge Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978954 Jazz Cafe Jl. Raya Sukma 2, Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976594 XL Shisha Lounge Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975751

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Raya Sukma, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970980 Ubud Property Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970888

RESTAURANTS Bale Udang Restaurant Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978754 Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970095 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8015124 Bollero Bar & Resto Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972872

Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Raya Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972706 CP LOUNGE Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978954 Down To Earth Jl. Raya Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: +62 36117835545 Damar Restaurant Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978374 Dolce Arancia Restaurant Jl. Raya Gootama 17, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7802381 Griya Restaurant Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975428 Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Raya Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: +62 361 973472 Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971056

SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Raya Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972956 Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976739 Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 27997658

Bali Ratu Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan Ubud Phone: +62 361 7425612 Eve Spa 1 Jl. Raya Penestanan Kelod, Ubud Phone: +62 361 979356 Eve Spa 2 Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 973236 Fresh Spa & Beauty Salon Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Yoga Barn - Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971236 Kayma Spa Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 361 9100017

SHOPPING DYPT Jl. Gootama 15, Ubud Phone: 081 3383 01013 Goddess On The Go Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 976084 Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Raya Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7475404 Rainbow Spirit Jl. Raya Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: +62 361 3699978 SISI Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8235151

SPORTS

WARUNGS

YOGA

Bali Adventure Rafting Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: +62 877 60142434 BaliGoBike Banjar Laplapan, Ubud Phone: +62 813 3726917 Bali Payung Rafting Jl. Raya Payangan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7868888 Greenbike Cycling Tour Banjar Junjungan, Ubud Phone: +62 851 01699692 Ubud Adventure Centre Jl. Raya Kdedewatan II, Ubud Phone: +62 361 898977

Né Warung Jl. Raya Gootama, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8493093 Gedong Sisi Warung Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 977276 Warung Biah Biah Jl. Raya Gootama, Ubud Phone: +62 361 978249 Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Raya Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7945153 Warung Merta Sari Jl. Ume Suke Wayah, Ubud Phone: +62 361 2021892 Warung Bodag Meliah Jl. Ume Suke Wayah, Ubud Phone: +62 361 972087

Yoga Barn Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 971236 Intuitive Flow Jl. Raya Penestanan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 977824

TOURS Bali’s Top Drivers Tours Jl. Pratu Made Rambug, Ubud Phone: +62 821 47179000 Ubud Unique Tour Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: +62 819 9942821

USEFULL INFO Ari Canti Hospital Jl. Raya Mas, Ubud Phone: +62 361 974537 Police Ubud Sector Jl. Raya Andong, Ubud Phone: +62 361 975316 Ubud Tourist Information Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: +62 361 973285

WINES Briges Bali Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 970095 Hatten Wines Komplek Pertokoan Dewa Ruci Jl. ByPass Ngurah Rai, Kuta Phone: +62 361 767422 Puri Garden Wine Shop Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 361 7443839 Plaga Wine Jl. Sunset Road 166, Kuta Phone: +62 361 756781, 8477238

ZOO Bali Zoo Jl. Raya Singapadu, Gianyar Phone: +62 361 294357 Bali Bird Park Jl. Singapadu, Batubulan, Gianyar Phone: +62 361 299352 Bali Safari & Marine Park Jl. Bypass Prof. Dr. Ida Bagus Mantra Phone: +62 361 751300 Elephant Safari Park Jl. Elephant Park Taro, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: +62 361 8988888

Ubud on the Cheap

frequent sight in modern Ubud is a middleaged Western individual or couple with expressions reflecting, in turn, bewilderment, indignation, and despondency as they shuffle along traffic-choked streets lined with fauxethnic, neo-brutalist or just-plain-cheesy shops and restaurants. These are undoubtedly former backpackers who had experienced Ubud a generation or two ago, when the trickle of foreign visitors and long-staying residents did not alter the charm or character of this quintessential Balinese village. Whether for a day or a year, these budget adventurers would immerse themselves in traditional Balinese life for much less than the backpacker’s benchmark budget of five dollars day. Now that sum would barely purchase lunch in most restaurants. But the old Ubud of five dollars a day (twenty in today’s dollars ), lives on, tucked away behind the uber-trendy boutiques and achingly hip cafes. Alleyways sandwiched between storefronts, some too narrow for a couple to walk shoulder-to-shoulder, lead to family compounds where Spartan rooms seemingly unchanged over the decades, are offered for amounts scarcely higher (when adjusted for inflation and currency devaluation) than in those days long past when the first backpacking hippies took the once-daily bemo from Denpasar. Now, as then, privacy is not on the menu. Unless you spend your entire time in a room where the bed takes up eighty percent of the floor space, you will be immersed in the endless social intercourse and amiable cacophony

of Balinese domestic life. But cheap need not mean uninspiring. Some budget places on the outskirts of town boast the same stunning panoramas as the luxury villas. A phalanx of late-model luxury sedans and SUVs lining the curb, with no temple or other obvious public facility in the immediate vicinity, generally indicates the presence of family restaurant or even road-side food stall that continues to draw long-time, nowaffluent patrons through sheer quality of the signature traditional dishes. Whether spit-roasted suckling pig or chicken stewed in an incomparable blend of fresh Balinese herbs and spices, many of these humble establishments offer some of the best food in a town that now boasts a global culinary reputation. Though luxury vehicles jostle for parking space in the narrow street, prices are seldom as upwardly mobile as the patrons. In most of these places, a heaping dish of rice topped with their signature offering of Balinese traditional cuisine is within the reach of anyone doing Ubud on the Cheap. Back in the days when the preferred footwear of visitors to Ubud was the sturdy, thick-soled shoes necessary for carrying a heavy backpack halfway across an unfamiliar city looking for a cheap hotel, and any sort of motorized vehicle was a rarity, walking was the preferred mode of transport. Now, with the roads co-opted by snorting tourist buses and sneering SUVs, walking has again assumed pride of place, as long as that place is not alongside a gridlocked main thoroughfare. With a little ingenuity and a good map (or GPS) you can recreate those ambulatory idylls of decades past, employing the dense network of

LIVING rice field and forest paths to avoid main roads. All of Ubud’s major attractions, and most of the temples and other spots of interest in the surrounding countryside, can be reached by navigating the footpaths and side roads. If you get tired of walking, cycling is a good option. But you had better ignore the line of brand new mountain bikes on display in front of most transport providers (the daily rental of which will eat up most of your budget) and search the back streets for an onthel, or old Dutch bike, the type that Julia Roberts rode in Eat Pray Love. Unless you qualify for a professional cycling team, you will not be able to, as she did, ride your clunky old beast sixty kilometers to the mythical beach-side bamboo bar in Uluwatu, but you will certainly be able to take in the sights around Ubud and the Ayung River.

The men, and often a couple of women, will have gainful employment, the arak (in most cases, but ask first) is purchased from a reputable supplier, and you can rest assured that members of the neighborhood security patrol will magically appear at the first sign of trouble. Even if you manage to blow your daily budget by noon, no need to despair. The timeless sights of a verdant rice field panorama, a child herding the family ducks across the road, and a colorful procession backed by stirring gamelan music, are timeless proof that the best things in Ubud remain free.

Back in the days when the full moon would be the brightest illumination Ubud could expect, the village curled up and went to sleep at seven. Now, thanks to abundant electricity, the town stays lively until almost eight-thirty. After that, the only option for evening owls is to seek out a place for a quiet drink. But drinking on a budget can be problematical in modern Ubud. Forget the hipster bars, where one Margarita will set you back half your daily budget. Even the roadside warung with a few rickety tables and chairs and, incongruously, a shining refrigerator ( supplied by the soft-drink distributor ) filled with local beer are getting pricey, with new taxes on alcohol. Instead, wander the back alleys until you see a gang of louts squatting in a circle around a grimy plastic water bottle filled with an unidentifiable liquid. In fact, the dodgy brew is readily identifiable as arak, the distilled liquor of the fermented sap of the lontar palm. This being Bali, hanging out with young men drinking bootleg liquor in a back alley is not a reckless activity.

CANDIDASA – QUEEN OF THE EAST

urning the corner to arrive at Candidasa I always experience a huge of pleasure. The sea is always clear, a fresh sea breeze is blowing and it is like a big welcome as the sky widens and the tang of the sea lifts your spirits. This little seaside town is always fun to visit.

Behind that big facade of highway and hotels and little tourist shops, there are so many things to discover. The beach is still beautiful and the water is divine – fresh and cool and clear as ice. In places you will find patches of white beach and strands of coconut palms. But beyond that there are surprises and things to discover. Accommodation ranges from cheap and cheerful lodgings to luxurious villas hidden away - up and down the coast, some where you would least expect them. About twenty minutes away is the Pasir Putih – or Virgin White Sand Beach. Although it is not as virgin as it was a year or two ago, it is still the best beach within easy reach of Ubud. The long stretch of white sand beach is lined with coconut groves and warungs selling cold beers, fresh fish and salad dishes. You can even eat with your toes in the sand – always a delightful experience! Shaded beach beds by the afternoon waves make for ideal lounging.

The hinterland of Candidasa is supremely beautiful • verdant hills are clothed in mist in the early mornings, ocean views, and hidden villages are ensconsed in the hills. Not to be missed is Tenganan, a very pretty traditional village just a few kilometres from town. Here life goes on pretty much as always with few interruptions from the modern world. A calendar of amazing ceremonies keeps the community busy all year. While the busiest months are June and July, there are always interesting things happening there. It is also a centre for traditional weaving, famous throughout the world. Check it out.

OUT OF TOWN Those who have time on their hands can take a spin down to Padang Bai – about forty minutes away. This picturesque fishing village and ferry harbor is known for its fine snorkeling on the nearby Blue Lagoon, just minutes from the main bay. Take time. Explore. It’s fun. There is always more to discover in the east.

galungan & kuningan festival • image by i gusti ketut windia

mong the many holodays in the Balinese 210-day calendar, the most prominent is undoubtedly Galungan, wich falls on the Wednesday of the Dungulan week of the Balinese calendar and is followed on the Saturday of the following week by the Kuningan festifal. on these two festivals, everything is closed. People return to their village of origin to present offering to their ancestors and village temples.