Wake by veronik avery v1 1 by Fabjan

WAKE

Cabled V-Neck Pullover by VÃ©ronik Avery

BROOKLYN TWEED

WAKE COMPONENTS Materials

1565 (1780, 2000, 2230, 2480, 2745) yards of fingering weight wool yarn 6 (7, 8, 9, 9, 10) skeins of Brooklyn Tweed Loft (100% American Targhee-Columbia wool; 275 yards/50g) Photographed in color Cast Iron Gauge

23 stitches & 38 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch, after blocking 24-stitch panel from Cable Chart measures 2¾" wide, after blocking Needles

One 32" circular needle in size needed to obtain gauge listed Suggested Size: 3¼ mm (US 3) Finished Dimensions

34¾ (39, 43, 47¼, 51½, 55½)" circumference at bust Intended Ease: + 2–4" Sample shown is size 39" with + 6" ease on model Additional Tools

Stitch markers, stitch holders, cable needle (CN), 3 mm (US C-2) crochet hook, T-pins (optional), blunt tapestry needle, a small amount of sock yarn in a similar color for seaming (see Construction Notes) Skill Level óóóóê

Pattern Version 1.1 Last Revised 15 September 2014

WAKE SCHEMATICS

1" 2½ (2¾, 3¼, 3½, 3¾, 4¼)"

2¾" 3½ (3¾, 4, 4, 4¼, 4½)" 8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½, 11¼)"

1¾"

6¼ (6¼, 6¾, 6¾, 7¼, 7¼)"

8 (8¾, 9, 9¾, 10, 11)"

15 (16¼, 17¾, 19¼, 20½, 22)"

LEFT SLEEVE

16¼ (18¼, 20½, 22½, 24¾, 26¾)"

Right and Left Sleeves are mirrored

FRONT

18 (18¾, 18¾, 18¾, 19, 19)"

13½ (14¼, 14¾, 15¼, 16¼, 16¾)"

5¼ (5½, 6, 6¼, 6½, 7)"

10¼ (12, 13½, 15, 16¼, 17¾)"

8¾ (9, 9½, 9¾, 10, 10½)"

8½ (9, 9½, 10, 10½, 11¼)"

19¼ (21¼, 23¼, 25½, 27½, 29½)"

BACK 13½ (14¼, 14¾, 15¼, 16¼, 16¾)"

25 (27½, 30¼, 33, 35¾, 38½)"

www.brooklyntweed.com

All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2014

ABOUT THIS DESIGN The casual comfort of a cozy raglan is elevated by unusual construction and bold cables that ascend the torso on the bias to create flattering lines. The curved hem and simple, nearly raw edge treatments make this garment thoroughly modern. Light and warm, Wake pairs effortlessly with trousers and button-down shirts. We styled ours with six inches of positive of ease, but you could knit a size close to your actual measurements to create a smart piece to pair with skirts as well.

CONSTRUCTION NOTES •

• • •

www.brooklyntweed.com

The pieces are worked flat and sewn together. The sides of the front neck are continued, sewn along the top of the sleeve and back neck, joined at the center back neck, then the top edge is folded down and sewn to the WS of the back neck as a collar. Read RS (odd-numbered) chart rows from right to left; read WS (even-numbered) chart rows from left to right. Slip markers as they are encountered. Because of the softly spun nature of this yarn, some knitters prefer to do their seaming with a firmly spun yarn, such as sock yarn, in a similar color; alternatively, you may add twist into the yarn (in the same direction as the yarn is plied) as you seam to add tensile strength.

All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2014

BACK Work 23 (23, 17, 29, 29, 23) rows even, ending with a WS row. Piece measures approximately 15½ (16¼, 16¾, 17¼, 18¼, 18¾)", measured at center back (piece is 2" shorter at side edges).

Cast on 144 (158, 174, 190, 206, 222) stitches using the Long-Tail Cast On. Knit 1 row (WS); purl 1 row (RS).

Shape Raglans

Begin stockinette stitch (knit on RS; purl on WS), beginning with a purl row; work 3 rows.

Bind off 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [106 (116, 126, 136, 146, 156) stitches remain.

Shape Hem

Raglan Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, knit 1. (2 stitches decreased)

Hem is shaped with Short Rows (see Special Techniques).

Repeat the Raglan Decrease Row every 4th row 1 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) time(s), then every RS row 36 (41, 41, 43, 43, 47) times. [30 (32, 42, 48, 58, 60) stitches remain]

Short Row 1 (RS): Knit 88 (97, 107, 117, 127, 137), wrap & turn; Short Row 2 (WS): Purl 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52), wrap & turn; Short Row 3: Knit to wrapped stitch from previous RS row, work wrap together with wrapped stitch, knit 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7); wrap & turn; Short Row 4: Purl to wrapped stitch from previous WS row, work wrap together with wrapped stitch, purl 4 (5, 6, 6, 7, 7); wrap & turn;

Sizes 43, 47¼, 51½, & 55½" Only: Raglan Decrease Row (WS): Purl 1, SSP, purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog, purl 1. (2 stitches decreased) Next Row (RS): Repeat Raglan Decrease Row (RS version). (2 stitches decreased)

Repeat Short Rows 3 & 4 eight more times. Repeat the last 2 rows – (–, 1, 2, 4, 4) more time(s). [– (–, 34, 36, 38, 40) stitches remain]

Short Row 5: Knit to end, working wrap together with wrapped stitch.

All Sizes Resume: Upon completion of this section, you will have worked the Raglan Decrease Row (RS or WS version) a total of 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58) times; you now have 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40) stitches on your needle.

Next Row (WS): Purl to end, working remaining wrap together with wrapped stitch. Work 2 rows even.

Purl 1 row (WS). Bind off all stitches.

Shape Sides

Side Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, knit 1. (2 stitches decreased) Sizes 34¾, 39, & 43 Only: Repeat the Side Decrease Row every 6th row 16 (17, 19, –, –, –) more times. Sizes 47¼, 51½, & 55½" Only: Repeat the Side Decrease Row on following 6th row once, then repeat the Side Decrease Row on [next 4th row once, then next 6th row once] -– (–, –, 10, 11, 12) times. All Sizes Resume: Upon completion of this section, you will have worked the Side Decrease Row a total of 17 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) times; you now have 110 (122, 134, 146, 158, 170) stitches on your needle.

www.brooklyntweed.com

All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2014

FRONT

Note that in the following section, cable stitches are shifted by working decreases at the side edges of the cable, while stitches are being increased in the interior stockinette stitch section to restore the stitch count. This will continue into the raglan shaping, until no more stitches remain in the cable. If you do not have enough stitches to work a cable cross, work the affected stitches in stockinette stitch instead.

Cast on 76 (86, 94, 102, 110, 118) stitches using the Long-Tail Cast On. Knit 1 row (WS); purl 1 row (RS). Next Row (WS): Purl. Setup Row (RS): Knit 1, purl 2, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Chart over 24 stitches, place marker, purl 2, knit 18 (28, 36, 44, 52, 60), purl 2, place marker, work Row 1 of Cable Chart over 24 stitches, place marker, purl 2, knit 1.

Work 5 rows even. Cable Shift Row (RS): Knit 1, p2tog, purl 1, work remainder of cable as established to next marker, slip marker, purl 2, knit 1, M1R, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, M1L, knit 1, purl 2, slip marker, work cable as established to last 4 stitches, purl 1, SSP, knit 1.

Next Row (WS): Purl 1, knit 2, slip marker, work next row of Cable Chart to marker, slip marker, knit 2, purl to 2 stitches before marker, knit 2, slip marker, work next row of Cable Chart to marker, slip marker, knit 2, purl 1.

Repeat the last 6 rows 2 (2, 1, 3, 3, 2) more time(s).

Continue as established for 4 more rows, ending with a WS row.

Work 5 rows even. Piece measures approximately 13½ (14¼, 14¾, 15¼, 16¼, 16¾)".

Shape Sides

Side Increase Row (RS): Work as established to second marker, slip marker, purl 2, knit 1, M1R, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, M1L, knit 1, purl 2, slip marker, work as established to end. (2 stitches increased)

Shape Raglans

Sizes 34¾, 39, & 43" Only: Repeat the Side Increase Row every 6th row 16 (17, 19, –, –, –) more times.

Next Row (RS; Cable Shift Row): Bind off 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) stitches, p2tog, purl 1, work remainder of cable as established to next marker, slip marker, purl 2, knit 1, M1R, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, M1L, knit 1, purl 2, slip marker, work cable as established to last 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) stitches, purl 1, SSP, purl to last stitch, knit 1. Next Row (WS): Bind off 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) stitches, work as established to end. [106 (116, 126, 136, 146, 156) stitches remain]

Note: Cable stitches are shifted at the same time as raglan and front neck shaping are worked. Please read the following section ALL THE WAY through to the end before proceeding.

Sizes 47¼, 51½, & 55½" Only: Repeat the Side Increase Row on following 6th row once, then repeat the Side Increase Row on [next 4th row once, then next 6th row once] -– (–, –, 10, 11, 12) times. All Sizes Resume: Upon completion of this section, you will have worked the Side Increase Row a total of 17 (18, 20, 22, 24, 26) times; you now have 110 (122, 134, 146, 158, 170) stitches on your needle.

Raglan Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, k2tog, work as established to last 3 stitches, SSK, knit 1. (2 stitches decreased) All WS Rows: Purl 2, work as established to last 2 stitches, purl 2. Repeat the Raglan Decrease Row every 4th row 1 (0, 0, 0, 0, 0) time(s), then every RS row 34 (39, 39, 41, 41, 45) times.

Remove the markers which are 3 stitches from each edge; leave the other 2 markers in place.

www.brooklyntweed.com

All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2014

Sizes 43, 47¼, 51½, & 55½" Only: Raglan Decrease Row (WS): Purl 1, SSP, work as established to last 3 stitches, p2tog, purl 1. (2 stitches decreased) Next Row (RS): Repeat Raglan Decrease Row (RS version). (2 stitches decreased)

Upon completion of this section, you will have worked the Raglan Decrease Row (RS or WS version) a total of 36 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56) times, and decreased 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) stitches at each neck edge; you now have 10 stitches remaining on each side. Collar Extensions

Repeat the last 2 rows – (–, 1, 2, 4, 4) more time(s).

Work 6 rows even. Place a marker between center stitches on either side.

All Sizes Resume: AT THE SAME TIME, on 6th row following first armhole bind-off row, shift cable stitches as follows:

Neckband Increase Row (RS): Knit to 2 stitches before marker, M1, knit to marker, slip marker; knit 2, M1, knit to end. (2 stitches increased)

Cable Shift Row (worked on same row as Raglan Decrease Row): Knit 1, k2tog, p2tog, work remainder of cable as established to next marker, slip marker, purl 2, knit 1, M1R, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, M1L, knit 1, purl 2, slip marker, work cable as established to last 5 stitches, SSP, SSK, knit 1. (2 stitches decreased at raglans; decreases worked at edge of cables have been offset by increases worked in interior)

Repeat the Neckband Increase Row every 4th row 5 more times. [22 stitches on each side] Work even in stockinette stitch until collar extension is approximately 3½ (3¾, 4, 4, 4¼, 4½)" long. Break yarn, leaving a 12" tail. Transfer stitches to holders or waste yarn.

Repeat the Cable Shift Row every 6th row 3 (3, 3, 2, 2, 2) more times, continuing raglan shaping, until markers are 4 (4, 4, 4, 4, 3) stitches from edge. At that point, remove markers and work the previous cable stitches in reverse stockinette stitch until they have been consumed by raglan decreases. ALSO AT THE SAME TIME, when armholes measure 1¾ (2¼, 2¼, 3, 3, 3¾)", ending with a WS row, divide piece for front neck and shape as follows: Mark center of piece (between 2 stitches). Next Row (RS): Continuing all shaping, work as established to 3 stitches before marked center, SSK, knit 1; join a new ball of yarn, knit 1, k2tog, work as established to end, continuing all shaping. Both sides will be worked at once from separate balls of yarn from this point forward. Make sure not to cross or twist yarns when switching to second side. Continue all shaping at established rates. Decrease 1 stitch at each neck edge in the same manner every 8th (8th, 6th, 6th, 6th, 4th) row 2 (7, 2, 6, 8, 1) more time(s), then every 10th (0, 8th, 8th, 8th, 6th) row 4 (0, 6, 3, 2, 10) times. After final Raglan Decrease Row, work 1 row even (WS).

www.brooklyntweed.com

All images, text, and illustration © Brooklyn Tweed 2014

SLEEVES (Make 2)

All Sizes Resume:

Cast on 50 (52, 54, 56, 58, 60) stitches using the Long-Tail Cast On.

Left Sleeve Only

Next Row (WS): Bind off 2 stitches, purl to end. (6 stitches remain) Next Row (RS): Knit 1, k2tog, knit 3. Next Row (WS): Bind off 2 stitches, purl to end. (3 stitches remain) Next Row (RS): Knit 1, k2tog.

Knit 1 row (WS); purl 1 row (RS). Begin stockinette stitch (knit on RS; purl on WS), beginning with a purl row; work 11 rows.

Bind off remaining stitches. Shape Sleeve

Sleeve Increase Row (RS): Knit 2, M1R, work as established to last 2 stitches, M1L, knit 2. (2 stitches increased)

Right Sleeve Only

Purl 1 row (WS). Next Row (RS): Bind off 2 stitches, knit 2, SSK, knit 1. (5 stitches remain) Purl 1 row (WS). Next Row (RS): Bind off 2 stitches, SSK. (2 stitches remain)

Repeat the Sleeve Increase Row every 10th (8th, 8th, 8th, 6th, 6th) row 8 (20, 11, 2, 23, 17) more times, then every 8th (0, 6th, 6th, 4th, 4th) row 9 (0, 12, 24, 6, 15) times.

Bind off remaining stitches.

Upon completion of this section, you will have worked the Sleeve Increase Row a total of 18 (21, 24, 27, 30, 33) times; you now have 86 (94, 102, 110, 118, 126) stitches on your needle. Work even as established until piece measures 18 (18¾, 18¾, 18¾, 19, 19)" from cast-on edge, ending with a WS row. Shape Raglan Cap

Bind off 2 (3, 4, 5, 6, 7) stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. [82 (88, 94, 100, 106, 112) stitches remain. Raglan Decrease Row (RS): Knit 1, k2tog, knit to last 3 stitches, SSK, knit 1. (2 stitches decreased) Repeat the Raglan Decrease Row every RS row 36 (39, 40, 43, 44, 49) times. [8 (8, 12, 12, 16, 12) stitches remain] Sizes 43, 47¼, 51½, & 55½" Only: Raglan Decrease Row (WS): Purl 1, SSP, purl to last 3 stitches, p2tog, purl 1. (2 stitches decreased) Next Row (RS): Repeat Raglan Decrease Row (RS version). (2 stitches decreased) Repeat the last 2 rows – (–, 0, 0, 1, 0) more time(s). [– (–, 8, 8, 8, 8) stitches remain]

www.brooklyntweed.com

FINISHING

SPECIAL TECHNIQUES

Wet-block pieces to schematic measurements (see Special Techniques). With matching sock yarn (see Construction Notes), sew raglan seams.

Short Rows: Wrap & Turn Method (stockinette stitch)

On a knit row: Slip next stitch to R needle, pass yarn from back to front, slip stitch back to L needle. Turn to work purl row, passing yarn to front of work. When you work the next stitch, take care to pull yarn snugly. On a purl row: Slip next stitch to R needle, pass yarn from front to back, slip stitch back to L needle. Turn to work knit row, passing yarn to back of work.

Place marker at center back neck. Sew collar extensions to top of sleeve, then to center of back neck, adding to or removing rows from extensions to reach center back if necessary. Join live stitches using Kitchener Stitch (see Special Techniques). With crochet hook, RS facing, and beginning ½" above left front raglan seam, work single crochet into selvedge (edge) stitch along left front neck edge to base of front neckline. Chain 7 stitches, then work single crochet into selvedge stitch along right front neck edge, ending ½" above right raglan seam. Fold collar to inside and sew edge neatly in place to back neck seam, making sure that stitches do not show on RS. With WS facing, tack chain stitches to base of front neck, to reinforce base of neckline. Allow front neck edges to curl inward.

When you come to a wrapped stitch in subsequent rows: For knit stitches: Insert the R needle into the wrap and then into the wrapped stitch and work them together. For purl stitches: Insert the R needle from behind, under the wrap, and then into the wrapped stitch, then purl them together.

Sew side seams, joining sloped edges of back and front. Sew sleeve seams.

Wet-Blocking

Fill a sink or basin with warm water and a small amount of delicate dish soap or rinseless wool wash. Submerge fabric in water, gently squeezing out any air bubbles so that the piece can remain under water without being held there. Soak work for 30 minutes, allowing fabric to become completely saturated.

Weave in remaining ends. Steam neck edging and seams or wetblock entire garment again.

Drain the sink and remove work. If you have used dish soap (rather than rinseless wool wash), you will want to fill the sink again once or twice to rinse the soap from your fabric. Never place knitting directly under running water. Squeeze out excess water from your work, taking care not to twist or wring fabric. Roll your fabric between two clean bath towels “burrito” style and firmly press towel roll. This will aid in removing moisture from the knitted piece. Remove piece from towels – your fabric should now feel damp but not saturated. Pin pieces in place on a blocking board or other appropriate surface, using instructed dimensions. Use as many T-pins as required to block piece into desired shape. Allow fabric to air dry completely before removing.

www.brooklyntweed.com

Kitchener Stitch (Grafting)

ABBREVIATIONS

Kitchener stitch is used to sew live stitches together in a way that mimics a row of knitting. Pieces to be joined are live on needles, with RSs facing out and both needle tips pointing to the right. Use a length of yarn approximately 4 times the length of the finished seam, attached to the R edge of the Back knitted piece (use the yarn the piece was knitted with, or attach a new length of yarn). Thread the yarn onto a blunt tapestry needle and follow the instructions below, working from right to left (note that you will work into each stitch twice):

See Chart Legend for Abbreviations not listed here. K2tog (Knit 2 Together): Knit two stitches on L needle together. (1 stitch decreased; leans right) SSK (Slip, Slip, Knit; modified): Slip one stitch from L to R needle as if to knit, replace stitch on L needle in new orientation and knit two stitches from L needle together through the back loops. (1 stitch decreased; leans left) P2tog (Purl 2 Together): Purl two stitches on L needle together. (1 stitch decreased; leans right)

Step 1: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Front Needle as if to purl; pull yarn through, but do not slip this stitch from needle. Step 2: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Back Needle as if to knit; pull yarn through, but do not slip this stitch from needle. Step 3: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Front Needle as if to knit, slipping this stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on Front Needle as if to purl and pull yarn through this stitch, tugging it gently. Step 4: Insert tapestry needle into first stitch on Back Needle as if to purl, slipping this stitch off the needle. Insert tapestry needle into next stitch on Back Needle as if to knit and pull yarn through this stitch, tugging it gently.

SSP (Slip, Slip, Purl): Slip 2 stitches knitwise, one at a time, transfer stitches back to L needle in their new orientation, then purl the stitches together through the back loops. (1 stitch decreased; leans left) M1 or M1L (Make 1 Left): With L needle tip, pick up the running thread between stitch just worked (below first stitch on R needle) and first stitch on L needle from front to back. Knit the running thread through the back loop. (1 stitch increased; leans left) M1R (Make 1 Right): With L needle tip, pick up the running thread between stitch just worked (below first stitch on R needle) and first stitch on L needle from back to front. Knit the running thread through the front loop. (1 stitch increased; leans right)

Repeat steps 3 and 4 until a single stitch remains on each needle, adjusting the tension of the sewing yarn every few stitches so that it mimics the tension of the knitting. To finish, insert tapestry needle into final stitch on Front Needle as if to knit, slipping it off of needle. Now, insert tapestry needle into final stitch on Back Needle as if to purl, slipping it off of needle. Pull the yarn through and fasten off gently so as not to distort the stitches.

DPN: Double-pointed needle CN: Cable needle RS (Right Side): This term refers to the public side of the knitted fabric, i.e. the fabric that will be visible when garment is worn. In projects with reversible fabrics, RS will be assigned specifically at the beginning of the pattern. WS (Wrong Side): This term refers to the non-public side of the knitted fabric, i.e. the fabric that will not be visible when garment is worn. In projects with reversible fabrics, WS will be assigned specifically at the beginning of the pattern. L: Left (Generally used in technique instructions to indicate which of your two working needles is being used). R: Right (Generally used in technique instructions to indicate which of your two working needles is being used).

www.brooklyntweed.com

All images, text, and illustration ÂŠ Brooklyn Tweed 2014

CABLE CHART CABLE CHART

12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 24-stitch cable

LEGEND Knit: On RS, knit stitch; on WS, purl stitch 4/4 LC: Slip 4 stitches to CN and hold in front. Knit 4 stitches from L needle. Knit 4 stitches from CN 4/4 RC: Slip 4 stitches to CN and hold in back. Knit 4 stitches from L needle. Knit 4 stitches from CN

www.brooklyntweed.com

All images, text, and illustration ÂŠ Brooklyn Tweed 2014