‘La Vie en Vogue’ Reflections on Fashion and Interiors by design curator, Francesca Barrow CEO Façonner
There’s a draw to darkness; where it tries to find its name
actually visiting the exhibition - I shall only say that for
in all of us, light exists. Indeed, I found myself sparked to
me, favourites included Romantic Nationalism and The
ponder life’s romanticisms one fine (albeit chilly) Spring
Cabinet of Curiosities.
day during my visit to the Alexander McQueen: Savage
It was here that, as I walked amidst the masses, I
Beauty exhibition at the V&A. I will admit that in the past
wondered how many visitors really felt the power of being
I’ve sometimes avoided such pondering and the house
in the presence of Alexander McQueen’s art like that; his
of McQueen in my own work for its acute and quite
life’s work displayed so cohesively and the majesty of it all
fantastic expression of the deep, dark and delightful -
at once. Here, there is no getting away from the fact that
finding the raw honesty of what can appear grotesquely
McQueen was an artist in the truest sense; one who had
brilliant, somewhat unnerving. But like I said, there’s
a purposeful ideal for each of his works, exploring themes
a draw to darkness - just as black and white serve to
such as primitivism, sexuality, culture - and executing
contrast each other completely, their aesthetic remains
these with masterful technique. Evidently, he knew what,
in perfect harmony. Thus, in reality, Alexander McQueen is
when and how to express himself- in his own words, ‘I think
unavoidable for its trueness and necessity.
everyone has a deep sexuality and sometimes it’s good
As I entered the exhibit, I was quite literally shrouded in darkness, save for a black and white photograph of
to use a little of it and sometimes it’s good to use a lot of it’.
the designer himself facing me before I turned right and
In a way, the setting for this couldn’t be better given
was surrounded even more poignantly by him; his work.
that the V&A is a London institution and this city remained
Dramatic music with voiceovers from him accompany
integral to Alexander McQueen’s inspiration throughout
film footage of old runway presentations and of course,
the entirety of his life’s work. Indeed, London is blessed to
mannequins dressed in his masterpieces. That was my
have bred Lee Alexander McQueen. What is so perfect
introduction to the exhibit and one that immersed my mind
about this is that where London has often been disdainful
into contemplation of the designer’s life, work and most
towards fashion - too often carelessly expressing itself
poignantly, relevance to our’s and future generations. In
based on the ideal that ‘fashion has no rules’ (a sentence
this sense, the exhibition does a good job of guiding one
I recoil at for its result: the production of clothes with messy
through some of the key themes explored by McQueen.
hemlines, unthought through structures and colours for no
There are ten rooms in total, each exhibiting a different
reason whatsoever), McQueen as a British artist inspired
aspect of his explorations. These include London, Savage
by the very beat of this city articulated more beautifully
Mind, Romantic Gothic, Romantic Primitivism, Romantic
than anyone why and how rules should exist, ‘you’ve got
Nationalism, The Cabinet of Curiosities, Pepper’s Ghost,
to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here
Romantic Exoticism, Romantic Naturalism and Plato’s
for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition’. And
Atlantis. I shall not go into detail of each for that would
it was the balance of this respect for tradition merged
quite ruin the impact of what one should experience on
with organic genius that made for one of the greatest
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designers who ever lived. It’s nice to go around the exhibition and see the intricacies that are his gowns just be there in all their glory- the culmination of creativity and skill. After all, McQueen started as an apprentice on Savile Row- the guy knew how to cut a suit. The magic of his pieces exist in the combined fanaticism of a wicked mind with one that clearly understood beauty in all its guises- and this is significant in fulfilling McQueen’s own wish to ‘create pieces that can be handed down, like an heirloom’ for his work will surely surpass generations. I think I’ve expressed by now that the exhibition is certainly worth a visit if only just for a while, to stand up and listen to what McQueen has to say. For me, this devoid any fear I had of his collections beforehand- because I realised that where darkness tries to find its name, light exists. Few of us understand desire so wholeheartedly to the point that it becomes comfortable and in this, McQueen made everything possible. ‘I want to be the purveyor of a certain silhouette or a way of cutting so that when I’m dead and gone people will know that the twenty first century was started by Alexander McQueen’. - Alexander McQueen
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