‘La Vie en Vogue’ Reflections on Fashion and Interiors by design curator, Francesca Barrow CEO Façonner
There’s a draw to darkness; where it tries to find its name
actually visiting the exhibition - I shall only say that for
in all of us, light exists. Indeed, I found myself sparked to
me, favourites included Romantic Nationalism and The
ponder life’s romanticisms one fine (albeit chilly) Spring
Cabinet of Curiosities.
day during my visit to the Alexander McQueen: Savage
It was here that, as I walked amidst the masses, I
Beauty exhibition at the V&A. I will admit that in the past
wondered how many visitors really felt the power of being
I’ve sometimes avoided such pondering and the house
in the presence of Alexander McQueen’s art like that; his
of McQueen in my own work for its acute and quite
life’s work displayed so cohesively and the majesty of it all
fantastic expression of the deep, dark and delightful -
at once. Here, there is no getting away from the fact that
finding the raw honesty of what can appear grotesquely
McQueen was an artist in the truest sense; one who had
brilliant, somewhat unnerving. But like I said, there’s
a purposeful ideal for each of his works, exploring themes
a draw to darkness - just as black and white serve to
such as primitivism, sexuality, culture - and executing
contrast each other completely, their aesthetic remains
these with masterful technique. Evidently, he knew what,
in perfect harmony. Thus, in reality, Alexander McQueen is
when and how to express himself- in his own words, ‘I think
unavoidable for its trueness and necessity.
everyone has a deep sexuality and sometimes it’s good
As I entered the exhibit, I was quite literally shrouded in darkness, save for a black and white photograph of
to use a little of it and sometimes it’s good to use a lot of it’.
the designer himself facing me before I turned right and
In a way, the setting for this couldn’t be better given
was surrounded even more poignantly by him; his work.
that the V&A is a London institution and this city remained
Dramatic music with voiceovers from him accompany
integral to Alexander McQueen’s inspiration throughout
film footage of old runway presentations and of course,
the entirety of his life’s work. Indeed, London is blessed to
mannequins dressed in his masterpieces. That was my
have bred Lee Alexander McQueen. What is so perfect
introduction to the exhibit and one that immersed my mind
about this is that where London has often been disdainful
into contemplation of the designer’s life, work and most
towards fashion - too often carelessly expressing itself
poignantly, relevance to our’s and future generations. In
based on the ideal that ‘fashion has no rules’ (a sentence
this sense, the exhibition does a good job of guiding one
I recoil at for its result: the production of clothes with messy
through some of the key themes explored by McQueen.
hemlines, unthought through structures and colours for no
There are ten rooms in total, each exhibiting a different
reason whatsoever), McQueen as a British artist inspired
aspect of his explorations. These include London, Savage
by the very beat of this city articulated more beautifully
Mind, Romantic Gothic, Romantic Primitivism, Romantic
than anyone why and how rules should exist, ‘you’ve got
Nationalism, The Cabinet of Curiosities, Pepper’s Ghost,
to know the rules to break them. That’s what I’m here
Romantic Exoticism, Romantic Naturalism and Plato’s
for, to demolish the rules but to keep the tradition’. And
Atlantis. I shall not go into detail of each for that would
it was the balance of this respect for tradition merged
quite ruin the impact of what one should experience on
with organic genius that made for one of the greatest
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designers who ever lived. It’s nice to go around the exhibition and see the intricacies that are his gowns just be there in all their glory- the culmination of creativity and skill. After all, McQueen started as an apprentice on Savile Row- the guy knew how to cut a suit. The magic of his pieces exist in the combined fanaticism of a wicked mind with one that clearly understood beauty in all its guises- and this is significant in fulfilling McQueen’s own wish to ‘create pieces that can be handed down, like an heirloom’ for his work will surely surpass generations. I think I’ve expressed by now that the exhibition is certainly worth a visit if only just for a while, to stand up and listen to what McQueen has to say. For me, this devoid any fear I had of his collections beforehand- because I realised that where darkness tries to find its name, light exists. Few of us understand desire so wholeheartedly to the point that it becomes comfortable and in this, McQueen made everything possible. ‘I want to be the purveyor of a certain silhouette or a way of cutting so that when I’m dead and gone people will know that the twenty first century was started by Alexander McQueen’. - Alexander McQueen
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‘La Vie en Vogue’
Reflections on Fashion and Interiors by design curator, Francesca Barrow CEO Façonner
Each time I have written or commentated on Design
figures in American furniture design. And on entering
Week at Chelsea Harbour, I commence by noting the
the showroom, was instantly aware of his hand; how
same thing; it is my favourite time of year. This is prevalent
different the space looked with the addition of his new
given that it follows fashion week and precedes the
Cosmopolitan collection and yet, how equally harmonious
Summer party season but there is truly no other event
this was to Decca Bolier’s own pieces remaining there from
on the yearly calendar quite like it. For Design Week is
before. The lovely Helen (who manages the showroom
not only held at one of my favourite places in London,
and marketing endeavours of the brand) quickly came
Chelsea Harbour (where one can while away the hours
over in greeting and ushered me towards Dakota Jackson
on the hotel’s terrace, sipping on Taittinger and simply
himself to introduce us. His presence was immediately felt
breathing in the reflection of the day’s sunlight on the
as his furniture lining the showroom- grandly intelligent and
water until it becomes evening, and the harbour’s
at first, intimidating with a subsequent ease of being that
edges are lined with little sparkling lights which seem
feels comfortable in the most distinguished way possible.
to speak to the moon) but more poignantly, breeds
Our conversation began with him asking that I repeat my
Fair Lady’ (I have only seen the film but advises me that
meaning of something is ultimately to appreciate where it
name, ‘Francesca,’ I said. ‘And your last name?’ This guy
the play is sterling). I start to puzzle over the relevance of
comes from (and that the history of curating is respective
had me at ‘hello’, or in this case, his evident (rare-to-find-
this conversation to our design-orientated brunch (I am
of some of the most profound individuals in design).
nowadays) appreciation for the sanctity of a surname.
far too impatient) when he apologetically explains that
‘Luxury’ and ‘bespoke’ have ironically come to mean the
‘Barrow,’ I replied in what felt rather like a Bond, James
when he first sits at a British play, it takes his ears a while
opposite of what they should by being thrown around too
Bond moment. As we took to our seats, he went on to
to climatise to the accent - and as mine is as British as
often; far from rare and appreciative of craftsmanship.
speak of British theatre, making a point particularly of ‘My
they come, he didn’t at first grasp my name on hearing
I am appeased by every word Dakota speaks because
exception (albeit, I attended with
it. The rest of our conversation followed just as articulately;
his success values the purity of such vital ideals which
the primary purpose of a particular
Jackson’s art for this is as beautiful as his furniture designs.
begs the notion that appreciating things in this way is still
design project I’m embarking on so
He has this amazing way of connecting aspects of life with
important. He takes out his pen (a beautiful, 18 carat gold,
my focus was a little more blinkered
not only a deep understanding of how they link together
slimline masterpiece) and explains that he’s been carrying
than usual, but more on that another
on a human level but also, profound knowledge on the
it around for 30-odd years; that there’s an intimacy we
day) and in particular, I was delighted
subjects of which he speaks. Each one of these led me
establish with our materliastic treasures. He makes a
to catch-up with my design friends
on a journey thus of both relativity and learning. We
similar point of his watch which is by Longine; saying that
who all seem on the brink of hugely
discussed certain words relevant to the design industry,
he wouldn’t wear a watch by a brand that hadn’t been
innovative developments.
battered by recent generations for lack of valuing their
making them for at least a century or so. This is reflective
One such friend is Decca Bolier,
true meaning- words such as ‘curate’, ‘luxury’ and
of his alliance with Steinway & Sons. Yes, as if everything
the furniture brand I curate. They
‘bespoke’. On this, I expressed my disappointment at
he’d said up to this point wasn’t music to my ears already
invited me to have brunch with
how ‘curate’ in particular was so specific a word when
(harmonising with every steadfast and stubborn ideal I live
Dakota Jackson, who has designed a
I first began Façonner (and used it literally)- it expressed
by), the man makes is a purveyor of my first love, pianos.
line for them. I was suitably enthralled
a valued skill, but that since, its orientation has become
In 2000, Steinway invited him to design the Tricentennial
to meet with the man who’s name
blurred for want of being used to describe almost
Piano, an edition of 300 pianos commemorating the
precedes him as one of the leading
anything. Dakota nodded as he replied that to value the
300th anniversary of the instrument’s invention. With his
conversation of the most fascinating kind. There seems to be the allowance at Design Week to go at one’s own pace; the essence of meandering and absorbing one’s surroundings. Speaking with designers becomes a more intimate affair as such, one gets the chance to truly get the feel of their creations. Design Week 2015 was no
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its maker to be honoured with a 2014 Red Dot Award for innovative product design) and Jackson has huge respect for that integrity. It’s about craftsmanship and he values this in Decca Bolier too. He explains with heart why it was such a difficult decision (one that took him a decade to make) to embark on this collaboration- given that he has never before produced furniture under any other brand name but his (which is saying something as his career spans over four decades). But it comes down to the core of it; that though not as bespoke (and I use the word in its truest sense) as Dakota Jackson, Decca Bolier is far from mass-produced and moreover, focuses on attention to detail. Dedication to craftsmanship is something that Dakota Jackson and Decca Bolier share and the results of their alliance is quite ideal. Straight lines intellectually placed on a rounded mirror I think quite says it all- in the technique, the thoughts and the culmination continued collaborations them
at
the
forefront of this topic, the key point to take away is that Steinway have been making pianos for 162 years (which Jackson knows only too well given that he introduced the Arabesque Limited Edition Grand concert piano to celebrate Steinway’s 160th anniversary- and this piano was the only one of
though I could have spoken with Jackson all day- and that ‘Cosmopolitan’ could only exist as it does, by him for Decca Bolier. So ignited was my inspiration on making way from the Decca Bolier showroom, that I was sure no event which followed could indulge it. But then I was proven wrong. My next stop was Colony; the fabric house I curate. What happens when a master of fabric translates this artistry to
what Colony has done with their first ever wallpaper
grateful on arriving at the Christopher Guy party in the
wallpaper? An awful lot, I can tell you. For that is exactly
collection. I was delightedly excited to be talked through
evening to be greeted by a nice bubbly flute. It is very
this by managing director of Colony Roma, Gabrielle
difficult to go to the Christopher Guy showroom. Mostly,
Roscioli. He explained to me that Colony have taken
because particularly since he launched his Mademoiselle
some of their most eponymous fabrics and expressed
collection (inspired by Coco Chanel and conceiving of
this in wallpapers using quite innovative techniques;
how she might live now), I want mostly everything that’s in
in essence, it stands as the perfect balance between
it. Especially, a certain dressing table that I fell in love with
traditionalism and modernity and in my mind, exactly how
at the launch of the Christopher Guy London showroom
we should generationally develop through appreciating
last year. It appears in shape like a little piano and almost
time-honoured techniques and values and emphasising
as if it were made for me. Luckily, it has since been taken
these through certain methods accessible in the modern
out of the showroom (obviously waiting for me to give it a
day. Each wallpaper design is taken from a fabric with the
home) so I could concentrate on other things, which was
exception of one (my favourite)- The Savoy which, very
good as the space has been redesigned and flows in the
aptly named, is a stripe. It is very difficult to find a good
most consistently beautiful manner. And as I appreciated
stripe both when it comes to fabric and wall covering. I
the fine feminine lines but overwhelming sophistication
asked Gabrielle why they didn’t consider The Savoy as
of the pieces around me, I thought what a wonderful
a fabric (since it existed so fabulously as a wallpaper)
Design Week it was, filled with promise for the upcoming
to which he replied that it’s a possibility for the future
chapter of what I hope will be a creative and healthful
collections. This says it all; that Colony have executed their
year. Santé!
first wallpaper collection so beautifully that one craves the only print not taken from a fabric, to be communicated as a fabric. Their more classic prints further, are quite exceptionally achieved with textures that really do mirror the original fabric. In fact, the only problem I see in using these beautiful wallpapers is that one most certainly wants to feel them and it would be a wonder to dissuade one’s guests from stroking the walls! Any good day at Design Week should finish (be celebrated) with a good glass of champagne. Or, as is ordinarily the case at Design Week, should be continuously celebrated with good glasses of champagne throughout the day rather than just at its end. However, I was so engaged by conversation, I quite forgot about this so was
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with
of these in final aesthetic. I leave our brunch feeling as