‘La Vie en Vogue’
Freshwater Pearls
The most versatile of them all with Helen Erhabor, Creative Director, PLAX Jewellery
Reflections on Fashion and Interiors by design curator, Francesca Barrow CEO Façonner Freshwater pearls; the most versatile and multifaceted
a
round
of all cultured pearls, available in an array of mesmerising
b e a d
shapes, sizes and hues. These precious pearls, as their name
nucleus
suggests, are born within the freshest of waters consisting of the
implanted
most natural aquatic environments such as ponds, lakes and
so the nacre
lagoons as opposed to their saltwater South Sea and Akoya
assembles
counterparts.
layering
Originating predominately in China, the Freshwater pearl’s formation process exceedingly differs from that of their saltwater counterparts. In addition to the contrast of the water’s environment, freshwater pearls are a product of mussels as opposed to oysters located within salt waters. However, the most distinctive trait of the freshwater mussel is its unique ability to produce up to forty exquisite pearls instantaneously compared to the saltwater oyster whose production capacity is limited to just one or two pearls per harvest. The mussels responsible for producing these fascinating pearls are scientifically known as ‘Hyriopsis Cumingi’. The Hyriopsis Cumingi mussel’s durability is extraordinary, as it contains the ability to be able to cultivate numerous pearls individually compared to the fragile yet delicate oysters found within salt waters. As with all cultured pearl production, nucleation is the embryonic process resulting in a pearl’s formation. This particular process instigates the construction of nacre that gradually forms the pearl. In the production of a salt water pearl, an oyster is nucleated with a round mother of pearl bead; however, with freshwater pearls fragments of tissue from the mussel’s mantle are used. A mussel is nucleated by inserting as many as 40 tissue nuclei cut in small square shapes, measuring approximately 3mm on either side of the mussel’s shell. This illustrates the prevalence of freshwater pearls within the family of cultured pearls. After the nucleation step, the impregnated mussels are cautiously
‘The Equestrian’
is
itself The being at one with the horse; that’s my favourite part
with the first two associations but assured this person on
of riding. I have been considering the different aspects of
the latter that they’d obviously never been riding with
pearl.
my former equestrian life; the sense of freedom one feels
me (or i.e, with someone who knows what ‘proper riding’
exclusive
galloping across a wide, open field, control; poise and
is), for there is nothing ‘girly-girl’ about proper riding (the
used
gentle motions practicing dressage, anticipation as you
kind where you come back with mud on your face and
production
arrive at the last jump on the cross-country (my instructor’s
your whole body pains of exhaustion but there’s nothing
voice still rings in my head, ‘one, two’, as I on ‘three’ give
left to do except get back in the saddle tomorrow to get
ultimately provide the nacre
a bit to the mouth and move with the grandeur of the
your muscles loose kind-of-riding; where the element of
little to no guidance to
horses’ body; instinctively knowing he’s cleared a perfect
competition you have within to become better even
determine
pearl’s
round) and of course, the sense of achievement after a
when not actually competing is enough alone to eliminate
This
really successful ride as you untack and cool your horse
any hint of girlishness). And yet, I wouldn’t be surprised if
Freshwater
down with water, amidst the sweat and that fantastic
there are women (perhaps even men) who have at one
stable-smell. I love all of it but at the core, that which in
point booked a riding lesson just as excuse to shop Ralph
than their saltwater counterparts.
my mind makes a good rider a great one, remains just
Lauren; the tweed jacket, jodhpur-style trousers and
However, more organic and natural appearing pearls are
simply being at one with the horse. I have been riding
knee-high boots (oh-so-chic). Mud or not, horse riding is a
produced. The tissues inserted are, however, dissolved during
for as long as I can remember though in recent years,
beautiful sport not least for its actuality but for its aesthetic.
the formation process which means that the freshwater pearl is
following the dismay of witnessing my horse go lame
Let’s be honest, jodhpurs are massively flattering; they
formed purely of nacre, containing no bead nucleus.
and now living in London with a fast-paced career in
make your derriere look pert, legs long and stomach
Recent development and innovation into freshwater pearl
design, I am not even a quarter as practiced as I’d wish
flat- add to that a pair of knee-high riding boots (or even
production in China has led to the establishment of a luxurious
to be. But as we enter polo season, my column takes on
ankle-high riding boots with chaps look sterling) and you
range of high quality freshwater pearls that are rounder in
a somewhat equestrian theme and I’ve been thinking
could quite literally come back bruised and foddered but
shape and more alluring in lustre. Freshwater pearls have an
about how a world that I associate more aptly with my
still look smart. Even that the traditional riding hat makes
extensive assortment of natural colours that are exclusively
former life seems to consistently seep into my now. For
your head appear unusually large only serves to make
unique to its culture of pearl. They come in an array of pastel
fashion sees ‘equestrian’ everywhere. Ralph Lauren is at
the rest of you look smaller (comme ci comme ça). So
around
the
bead a
forming
round
However, tissues
are
during of
the
freshwater
overall results pearl
pearls
the
roundness. in
the
being
less
which
rounded
hues ranging from white, peach, pink and lavender. The
the forefront of this -
I must reconsider the
quality of a freshwater pearl surpasses all spectrums of
with its eternal mascot
tomboy’s
as
for
the market from low, to middle and high end, and
the
polo
pony.
I a
class
myself
as
proper
was
always
at
jumping
returned to their freshwater
are commonly utilised in both fashion and fine
Someone
habitats where they are
jewellery collections. Freshwater pearls offer
said to me (a girl who
rider,
then descended below
individuals an opportunity to experience pearls
described
brilliant
to depths of up to 3
in multiple formats; from the fun and flirty to the
a ‘tomboy’) that they
and even better at
fashionable and fine, from the artistic baroque to
couldn’t
dressage
feet. During this period
recently
viewpoint
though
herself stand
as
girly-
the pearls are left to
the stylish multi-layer. Freshwater pearls provide
girls because girly-girls
cultivate
women a multi-faceted experience into the
are
only
world of cultured pearls.
in
talking
and
mature
for a time scale of 2-6
interested
(which
by
itself is fairly vain), I am completely
crap
at
about
polo (I’m left-handed
years, enabling the layers
boys,
clothes
and could never much
of
Necklace, Catherine - Freshwater Pearls with
shopping and horse-
be bothered with it)
14KT or 18KT Gold and diamonds | Ring, Starburst
riding. I sympathised
nacre
strengthen
to
gradually
and
assemble
eventually forming the pearl. In the case of the Southsea and Akoya pearl
going
‘Darcy and I’ Photo Credit: Mummy
- Freshwater Pearl ring set in 14KT or 18KT Gold with diamonds.
020 3731 4131 | faconner@faconner.co.uk | www.faconner.co.uk
and know for a fact
The ‘Bulletproof’ by Vee Speers private view at The Little Black Gallery
Ralph Lauren Hunting-inspired wear from A/W13
It occurs to me that in my previous interior-writings to
fragile beauty of adolescence through photographing
you, dear reader, I have not yet broached the subject of
a time that follows the first loss: that of childhood. It’s a
Art. A good thing then that a rather fabulous private view
powerful exploration even in concept alone. And to be
took place in the meantime since we last spoke because
honest, I had never before considered the end of my
Art is to your home as a handbag is to your outfit; not
childhood as a loss until being presented so solidly with
completely necessary unless you understand the concept
this; considering these Art works I realise that certainly,
of luxury and then it becomes absolutely imperative. On
there is an inexplicable void as one enters adulthood-
the evening of the 28th April (a Tuesday- which is always
yes, leaving childhood behind is indeed our first loss. When
a good day) The Little Black Gallery in Chelsea hosted
people speak about becoming an adult, it’s usually to do
their private view of Vee Speers’ ‘Bulletproof’. I can tell
with ‘responsibility’ but what they often fail to mention is
you, right off the bat, that this exhibit is not for the faint-
that which falls alongside this; the most disturbing aspects
hearted - the works are serious in their contemplation
of that next chapter- how appallingly ugly the world is.
of serious things. For in this series, Speers eternalises the
When you’re a child, the world is sweet because simply,
Ralph Lauren Tweed from A/W13
that this polo-season given that my best riding years are
trousers in a jodhpur cut with suede patches at the knee.
behind me (for now), I will likely be at the games sipping
Of course I bought them- I had to; I practically lived in
champagne and being just as judge-y as all of the other
jodhpurs in Gloucestershire so it was a familiarity thing
fashion-y people in the tent who spend more time looking
(sure). So today, when I get the chance to work so often
at each other’s outfits than the players (or at least, at
with this eponymous brand for my photo shoots and such
the game they’re playing). Indeed, as it stands now I
- that which bears so much sentiment for me because I
probably appreciate the fashion-elements of the sport far
grew up in it and probably first began to love it because of
more than I ever did. I appreciate Ralph Lauren because
its horsey-association (even though I am now very aware
deep down I’ve always secretly loved the way I look in
that there’s a lot more to its design-genius than that), I
jodhpurs and they’ve done a genius job at bringing just
cannot help but think that maybe I am just a horsey-girly-
a little bit of that style into day-wear. I nought forget the
girl. I love fashion and I love horses. And I love when things
first pair of trousers I ever bought from Ralph Lauren. I was
look perfect. So one might say that horse riding is quite
fifteen and by then, had about a million polo shirts and an
frankly the most perfect sport in the whole wide world.
even greater number of formal ones from Ralph Lauren
And Ralph Lauren is big on sport. They partner with a lot of
(I went to an awesome boarding school with a seriously
really great sporty events. The ironic thing though? None
cool headmaster who allowed us to wear whichever
of these are equestrian. Ralph Lauren is the US Open
shirts we liked under our uniformed v-neck navy jumper
and Wimbledon- this year being their 10th anniversary
hence mine were obviously always from Ralph Lauren,
as official outfitter for the latter. That’s perfectly alright
and looked brilliant with my school-tie)- I was in Harrods
Ralph, you drew me in quite some time ago- and besides,
shopping with Mummy one weekend and my eyes met
I have a Ralph Lauren tennis-style dress too. So, see you
with this beautiful pair of deep, dark brown linen cotton
at Wimbledon!
020 3731 4131 | faconner@faconner.co.uk | www.faconner.co.uk
‘Me next to a selection of works in the exhibition’ Photo Credit: Gabriel Lovas photography @gabriellovas on Insta
happier things because I too should balance deeper philosophies with lighter discussion - such as the wonderful job the Little Black Gallery does of hosting such occasions and yes there was prosecco and chatter and just next door Gordon Ramsey’s new restaurant Maze (which also houses the gallery’s picture collection on their walls) was responsible for the canapés. One wouldn’t expect less from the owners of the gallery, Tamara Beckwith Veroni and Ghislain Pascal, who are both impeccable and so create impeccable gatherings. On that note, in case you were wondering, I was wearing a fur gillet handed down to me by someone very special, an Amanda Wakeley blouse which is all sorts of fabulous because it’s not quite purple and it’s not quite grey rather somewhere in the middle, water-snake-skin-effect Wolford leggings, actual water-snake Hogan biker boots and my pink Chanel bag. Do you remember my pink Chanel bag? The one I mentioned in my debut fashion segment to you? Well, I thought I’d wear it so you could see (thank you to photographer Gabriel Lovas for conducting a mini fashion-shoot with me at the exhibit) what I meant when I said that despite the collection of bags in my closet (which my boyfriend constantly recounts in amazement that I actually find occasion to wear all of them), this that my auntie bought me on my 16th birthday
be innocent within, you find that this part of you once appeased by its surroundings is now at constant battle with them - for the world is not innocent at all, rather it’s barbaric and gruesome. Indeed, the human psyche is not just two-fold and when you first begin to truly experience its complexities through forming relationships whether in work or in personal, people’s often wayward ways can be shocking. So Speers equips her subjects with weapons of any kind at all, to ensure that they are prepared for the fight. These pictures would be completely ugly for their idealisms (as ugly as the world their subjects are to journey through), except that they’re not - because Speers is a beautiful photographer and she captures things in a beautiful way. Through my perception, just as innocence fights with promiscuity, Speers’ camera-perspective fights with her subject. And often in art, the juxtaposition between light and dark, beautiful and ugly, good and bad serves to emphasise each of these aspects; it makes us think. I’m all for Art that makes us think, as long as the technique behind the work is just as intellectual. So I enjoyed the exhibition truly- there was no fluff and though sometimes I’d rather avoid things that make me sad (those of you who read my piece on McQueen last issue will comprehend) because my emotional intellect seems to run riot with them, I realise as I continue to form my character throughout my twenties that it’s important I do because quite simply, it’s there. And far better then to explore such things through artworks that balance the ugly with the beautiful just as ‘Bulletproof’ does. But then on to
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Above: ‘Me standing next to my favourite picture in the exhibition.’ Photo Credit: Gabriel Lovas Photography @gabriellovas on Insta. Top Right: ‘Me and Tamara Beckwith Veroni’ in front of another favourite picture’ Photo Credit: Gabriel Lovas photography @gabriellovas on Insta. Right: ‘Me at Gordon Ramsey’s ‘Maze’ viewing The Little Black Gallery’s collection there.’ Photo Credit: Gabriel Lovas Photography @gabriellovas on Insta.
continues to be my absolute beloved - and Chanel have never done another pink quite like it. Another testament to Tamara’s good taste then that she aptly noted ‘hold on to it’ whilst we took a picture together (my bag is getting rather big-headed for it seems to receive similar attention every time it goes out). So alas, altogether it was a good little stop before dinner and actually, one of the first I’ve been to in a while due to having had my head down in work so much recently. It’s almost as though I realised during this time of absence, getting back into it, that I’ve grown up. Do I feel ‘Bulletproof’? Not quite yet but you know what, I have my weapon (it’s a pink Chanel bag) so I know I’m well-equipped to get there. ‘Bulletproof’ by Vee Speers is being exhibited at The Little Black Gallery until the 16th May, Fotografiska Museum in Stockholm, Sweden from April-June and Photo London from 20-24th May.
The Little Black Gallery, 13A Park Walk, London SW10 0AJ, 0207 349 9332, www.thelittleblackgallery.com
39
your innocence is appeased by innocence. You grow up and though you may still