PAO & EL SECRETO OMAK ASE BY PAUL QUI
Full of Flavor If you’re craving the perfect bite, look no further than Pao by Paul Qui. The Asian-inflected restaurant recently added an entirely new section of Pao Bites and nigiris to the menu.
Must-eats include the Ora King salmon with shishito peppers and lemongrass; cured and coldsmoked Hamachi Jamon with slices of fresh cantaloupe; and Shiso Tempura. “We wanted the tempura to be on the lighter side. It has charred onion crème fraiche and smoked trout roe on top, which gives a little bit of a smoky taste,” said Chef de Cuisine Paulina Ornelas. “Many of our bites and nigiris are inspired by Japanese cuisine, but you’ll also find a touch of Qui’s Filipino heritage in dishes like the Kare Kare Macaroon, topped with foie gras—kare is a peanut sauce typically eaten with braised oxtail in the Philippines.” The nigiris offer a little taste of the omakase experience at Faena’s El Secreto speakeasy. “It showcases
some of the best quality fish flown in from Japan that are paired with ingredients we ferment in-house like Pao’s Yuzukosho featuring fresnos and strawberries,” she added. Be sure to order Ornelas’ all-time favorite: the eggplant nigiri roasted with a farro miso butter and lime gel. “We are also focusing on vegan and vegetarian options, adding more flavor to enhance seasonal vegetables.” Meat lovers shouldn’t miss the Wagyu Short Rib Nigiri. The beef is smoked, then tenderized for 72 hours at a very low temperature for a melt-in-your-mouth consistency. “We also grill a slice of short rib that’s finished with fresh wasabi root over rise. It’s simple but packed with flavor,” she said.
Trust the Chef Every few months, chef Erik Melendez evolves the omakase offerings at El Secreto with new in-season ingredients to ensure the menu is always full of secrets and surprises.
Newly added dishes for fall and winter include a Peruvianstyle ceviche made with suzuki (a Japanese seabass) bathed in leche de tigre sauce and seasoned with aji, pumpkin seeds, apples and Japanese sweet potato. “A lot of my inspiration comes from trying to combine Japanese ingredients and techniques with my Hispanic heritage,” said Melendez. Another ode to autumn is the scallop crudo dish. Sourcing the seafood from Hokkaido Japan, Melendez pairs it a pomegranate vinegar, gooseberry relish, and crispy shallots topped
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with a drizzling of extra virgin olive oil. There’s also a new smoked sawara (Spanish mackerel) dish that is cold smoked in-house with applewood, then combined with Asian pears, golden raisins, blood oranges, pine nuts, and finished off with san bai zu, a mix of vinegar and orange oil. “This one really reminds me of Thanksgiving when you stuff your plate with a little bit of everything,” he said. “The smokiness of the fish almost tastes like ham, and you have the freshness of the sweet fruit with the pine nuts, adding a nice texture.”
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