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Patrick Walter
Like any artist or photographer worth their salt, Patrick Walter prefers to let his images do the talking rather than reveal too much about himself. So he prefers not to appear in front of the camera himself, in keeping with his mantra: “See for yourself.” The photographer lives his life by maxims too, including “love loudly” and “live YOUR life.” And as we flick through his editorial in admiration, we can only agree.
MERCI
None of us is as smart as all of us.
Johannes Jorge Hölkeskamp
If you want to know what’s trending not just today, but the day after tomorrow too, just ask stylist Johannes Jorge Hölkeskamp—he’s sure to know. Fashion is so much more than just clothing to Johannes; it’s a reflection of culture and society. He can spot all of these correlations from a mile away. Above all, he thrives in the worlds of high fashion and avant-garde, where the lines between art and fashion begin to blur.
Wiebke Reich
Your hair and make-up are safe in Wiebke’s hands. Not only does she have over ten years of experience in getting the best out of any face, but she’s also a trained hairdresser. Her skill set covers a broad range, from precise, understated make-up like in our fashion editorial to complex special effects for TV productions.
Patrick Schwalb
Some photographers view new trends with a hint of skepticism. But not Patrick Schwalb: He quite happily navigates his way between the worlds of analog and digital photographic techniques, expressing an equal amount of enthusiasm at the latest innovations in AI photography. He prefers to use his own eyes though, and is passionate about applying his attention to detail to create high-end editorials, all the while focusing on his goal of redefining fashion photography.
Jochen Pohlmann
What do you do when you’re torn between your love of fashion and your love of interior design? Become a fashion and interior stylist of course. Jochen Pohlmann doesn’t just dress stars like Lena Gercke and Alessandra Ambrosio, he knows how to optimize the design of any room too. His work features more pottery than industrially produced pieces, as well as lots of dark blue: His favorite color reminds him of the sea and his boat.
Kasperi Kropsu
A few years ago, Kasperi swapped the skateboard for the camera. Ever since, the Finn never leaves the house without it, even to the grocery store around the corner. After all, there’s a lot to capture in his home city of Helsinki. Well-dressed people, signs of progressive gentrification, and distorted reflections are just a few of the possibilities. A perfect day for him, then, consists of aimless strolls. And if the Nordic gloom ever gets too much, he seeks new inspiration in Paris.
Elevating one another, raising us all.
Michael Rechsteiner
Long-term relationships are not a thing of the past just yet: It’s been around 20 years since Michael Rechsteiner wrote his first pieces for FACES—his first ever published pieces in fact. In the meantime he’s been editor-in-chief of RCKSTR Magazine, all the while remaining on our books as a writer. We’ve now rekindled our old flame, with Michael finally joining our editorial team back in March. We can’t wait to enjoy his fantastic stories and enviable way with words.
Josefine Zürcher
Earlier this year saw the start of an exciting new chapter for FACES. With a master of arts degree and many years of experience in film journalism under her belt, Josefine Zürcher bolstered our editorial team with her arrival in March. As a passionate photographer, she would also have no problem filling the photo series we feature in our magazine. But she loves to shine the spotlight on other talented creatives too, like fashion photographer Lucia Giacani or photographer Kasperi Kropsu. We’re ready for our close-up.
“
WELL, WE ALL SHINE ON.” THE FACES
Text: Michael Rechsteiner
IRIS LAW
FAMILY GOALS
Iris Law first made the headlines as a two-year-old. The police had to be called when the daughter of Jude Law and Sadie Frost accidentally swallowed an ecstasy pill. Even her childhood birthday parties had the glamour of a West End party thanks to guests like godmother Kate Moss. The graduate in fashion design — mentored by Stella McCartney — is now following in the supermodel’s footsteps as the face of campaigns for Dior, Miu Miu, and Guess Jeans. New boyfriend and soccer star Trent Alexander Arnold has hit the back of the net with this one.
A red carpet is needed for family events.
REECE FELDMAN
CURLS ON FILM
Reece Feldman was previously a runner on movie sets, keeping camera assistants supplied with fresh coffee. Now, the 26-year-old has the most powerful TikTok account in Hollywood and the biggest production studios are following him around instead. His videos feature him interviewing stars on the red carpet, accompanying Christopher Nolan to the Oscars, and challenging Jenna Ortega to a drawing competition. Anyone looking to make new movies palatable to Gen Z should let Reece cook and serve up viral content. And since his outfits are always so fresh, he’s now got brands like Gucci knocking at his door too.
STEPPING UP
Her high heels are high flyers. Over the past five years, Amina Muaddi has demonstrated great poise and finesse, almost single-handedly turning her eponymous brand into one of the most coveted new discoveries in the luxury segment. Wide heels, rich colors, and original designs are the hallmarks of the brand, with Kendall Jenner and Rihanna just two of its famous fans. Most recently, the design graduate launched a collection for Fenty, which was as hotly sought-after this summer as a berth at the Cannes marina.
Scaling the ladder of success.
AMINA MUADDI
WAWA GATHERU
NATURAL WONDER
Mother Earth is not doing so well. But more and more of her daughters are standing by her bedside and fighting for her recovery. One of them is Wawa Gatheru. In 2021, the highly-decorated graduate of the University of Oxford founded the youth movement Black Girl Environmentalist. Its aim is to involve women of color, a demographic particularly impacted by environmental damage, more prominently in the fight against climate change. Today it’s not just her million-strong audience on social media that’s listening to her message, but Joe Biden’s administration too, to which the 25-year-old is an official advisor.
Saving the planet, no big deal.
CHEF’S KISS
When Pierce Abernathy uploads cooking clips to TikTok and Instagram, he doesn’t just get stomachs rumbling, but hearts racing too. The American has a plethora of simple, healthy recipes up his sleeve (if he happens to be wearing anything up top that is) and appears as sweet as a teddy bear made out of cotton candy when cooking them up. He’s now caught the attention of fashion houses like Gucci and Ralph Lauren, who have taken the 29-year-old out of the kitchen and onto their runways. And yet we think that, if his career were a menu, he’s still only at the appetizers.
Just enjoying a little taste of fame.
PIERCE ABERNATHY
SOFTCORE
It doesn’t get greener than this. Recently it’s been mostly actors of Irish heritage who have made us forget that there’s still popcorn left in the box with their enigmatic performances. But while Cillian Murphy wins Oscars and Barry Keoghan goes viral dancing naked, Paul Mescal is waiting to be discovered like a hidden treasure — still. He masters the sensitive masculine type in movies like “ Aftersun” and “ All of Us Strangers.” And as the narrator in the new Gucci documentary “ Who is Sabato De Sarno?”, he makes you immediately want to be his friend and take him on your next night out.
One shot of Mescal, please.
PAUL MESCAL
Calling out the beasts of the beauty scene.
SABLE YONG
VANITY FLAIR
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Yet in that same same eye there is a toxic thorn of unattainable ideals, photo filters, and snake oil in bottles of face cream. To say symmetry is so important in the beauty world, a lot of the industry’s messaging is off-kilter. Author Sable Yong doesn’t have a scalpel to cut out this societal disease, but she does have a sharp pen to call it out. Her best essays have now been compiled into a book entitled “ Die Hot with a Vengeance.” — essential reading for anyone who wants to stop looking in the mirror with such a self-critical eye.
SEAN EVANS
SAUCY
Sean Evans brings the world’s biggest stars to tears in his interviews, but not by eliciting painful confessions from them. Instead, in the YouTube talk show “ Hot Ones”, Evans serves his guests chicken wings that get hotter with every question. Who would subject themselves to such a thing? Well, Scarlett Johansson, Lewis Hamilton, Margot Robbie, and Chris Hemsworth, to name a few. His millions of viewers don’t just appreciate the unusual setting, but they also love Sean’s discerning questions and friendly nature. No wonder, then, that Netflix has already offered him a deal.
Stars love him, chickens hate him.
CAPTURED BY JOE CLARKE
ELYANNA
1001 NIGHTS OUT
Granted, she’ll never be the most famous person to be born in Nazareth. But Eylanna is on the cusp of becoming the next global pop star. The Palestinian-Chilean singer is already a sensation on the Arabic music scene. And since her collaboration with Coldplay, she’s unlocked the gate to western audiences too, and has already played the first Arabic-language set at Coachella. Her music swirls folklore, EDM, and jazz into a storm of emotions, understood not through language, but through the heart.
The singer lifting the veil on the world of Arabic pop.
A man who really knows his material.
JEANS GENIE
Last year, “ wizard of denim” Nigel Xavier worked his magic to win the reality show “ Next in Fashion,” bewitching judges including Gigi Hadid and Alexa Chung. In his hands, the blue fabric is transformed into style gold inspired by patchwork chic. And the newcomer from Atlanta doesn’t lose his thread with other materials, either: He upcycles old knitted blankets to fashion bold ponchos and jackets. This winter, we’re not just adding pops of color, but also wrapping ourselves in the same cozy comfort we’d feel snuggled on grandma’s couch during a blizzard.
NIGEL XAVIER
THE HYPE
Text: Josefine Zürcher
“ SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS.”
FASHION
Don’t try to fit in when you’re born to stand out.
Trend
COOL CAT
If something has always been cool and will always be cool, can you even call it a trend? We think so — not least because our favourite animal print paraded down the runway at this year’s fall/ winter shows so often that there was no escape from it. Leopard print in particular adorned not only complete outfits, but shoes and bags too. Whether you opt for a head-to-toe cat-inspired outfit or just the accessories — the main thing is that this wildcat look finds its way into your wardrobe somewhere.
We Love
COWGIRL-CORE
Last year it was Margot Robbie as Barbie in a pink cowboy hat, this year it’s Taylor Swift on her Eras Tour: Both not only brought the country look into the spotlight, but gave it some muchneeded sparkle. So it’s no wonder we’re longing for fall so we can pull on our sparkly boots — not to trudge through the stables, but to saunter
down the street, high heels-a-clicking. We’re swooning over this elegant take on the trend from Minacapilli, the silver fringing and slender heels making it the
perfect boot for a night out. Incidentally, Minacapilli also has something for everyone, including those who, despite the hype, aren’t fans of the cowgirl look. minacapilli.com
Unfuck the World BLUE
We all know that the production of our beloved blue jeans requires, or rather wastes, an unbelievable amount of water. And to be honest, we usually ignore it. The French label ba&sh, however, is looking into the matter and driving the change towards sustainability. After first calculating their frightening water footprint, they are now taking action: Among other things, the label wants to focus on materials that require less water and chemicals during the washing process, such as organic cotton. But that’s not all. While water management is a key issue, the sustainability strategy until 2030 is based on the following pillars: climate and biodiversity, certified materials, traceability, recycling and empowerment of women. ba-sh.com
Nice to Have
BLING
Those who mainly know Pharrell through his megahit “Happy” have got some catching up to do. He’s got 13 Grammys on his mantelpiece and has also been known to lend his many talents to the fashion world. In 2023, he was named Louis Vuitton’s new Menswear
Creative Director. And now he’s got his sights on the world of jewelry. Pharrell has launched a collection with Tiffany called “Tiffany Titan”, whose rings, necklaces, and more draw on Greek mythology with details inspired by spearheads. tiffany.com
It-Piece
CLOSE
We’re pretty confident that neither the contents of this bag nor the bag itself will be stolen this season. We’re wearing our bags tucked tight under our arm now, no matter how big they are. Practical? Not really. Stylish? You bet.
“ My dad always used to encourage me to dress weird.”
Charli xcx
New
Collection
FALL FEELINGS
Wasn’t it just summer? We were lying by the lake in the blazing sun. Not even the prospect of colder months ahead could cast a shadow over us. One look at the new Loewe collection, though, is enough to ensure that fall fever pours down over us like the rain is sure to do this season — all of a sudden we’re longing for our floor-length coats and rich fall tones. loewe.com
Favourite
DELICATE
Very gently, Malaika Raiss is reminding us to let go of summer: With an event to mark her pre-fall collection “Imagine”, which is compelling us to pack away our bikinis and bring jeans and leather jackets back into our everyday ‘fits. Even so, the vibe is light and airy;
after all, as we have come to expect from the Berlin-based designer, there are plenty of draping fabrics and pops of color. Browsing the online shop fills us with fall vibes — and the desire to sport a layered look on our next errand run. malaikaraiss.com
BEAUTY
Hair Trend
BRAID ART
Hair off the face, but with a bit of style and effort, please. Instead of deciding between braids or a bun, we’re simply combining both. This style gives the much-loved bun more texture thanks to skillfully plaited braids — and it gives us the chance to improve our dexterity in the process.
Favourite
SOFT
Without hand cream in every purse, on the nightstand, and in the office, something isn’t quite right. And if the packaging happens to be as pretty as
the Pommade Concrète from Buly, regular application is sure to become a ritual. Thanks to shea butter — an all-rounder of an ingredient — hands
Make-up Trend
ORANGERY
If you get jittery hands just thinking about applying eyeliner, you can breathe a sigh of relief. We’re grabbing some bright orange pigment and painting thick lines somewhere above our eyelids. Ditch
precision and embrace the joy of color and the courage to stand out. True to the motto “the bigger, the better,” we’re celebrating the first fall colors and slowly bidding adieu to summer.
and feet stay moisturized all winter long. Officine Universelle Buly, “Pommade Concrète,” hand and foot cream, 75 ml, approx. 40.00.—, buly1803.com
“ If I hadn’t been a woman, I’d be a drag queen for sure.”
DIVINE FEMININE
Sweetly tinged in pink, yet deeply melancholic: This is how female protagonists in Sofia Coppola’s movies appear on screen. Now the queen of subversive feminist cinema has teamed up with Augustinus Bader to launch a lipstick that is a must-have for any Coppola fangirl’s dressing table. The Tinted Balm comes in three colors, allowing
you to recreate the Coppola soft girl look made famous in “The Virgin Suicides”, “Marie Antoinette”, and “Priscilla” while Phoenix or The Strokes sound from the record player. The Tinted Balm x Sofia Coppola, approx. 40.—, augustinusbader.com
LACED UP
The wait for a new album from Rihanna is beginning to resemble an ultra marathon. It’s a good job, then, that we enjoy what the singer is doing in the meantime at least as much as her
music. With her label, Savage x Fenty, she creates a space for diversity and inclusion in the lingerie world, a place where these values are otherwise all too readily overlooked. savagex.eu
Places
BLUE LAGOON
As kids we all dreamed of having our own tree house. And ever since hearing about Hotel Boca de Agua in Mexico, we’ve rekindled this dream. On the peninsula of Yucatan, between lush forests and a crystal clear lagoon, the tree house-inspired accommodation blends into the surroundings. Here, you become one with nature. Aside from the luxury accommodation, though, the natural landscape is intended to be left in peace as much as possible: 90 percent of the surrounding area is part of a conservation and regeneration program. Boca de Agua, Chetumal-Cancun KM 4.5, 77963 Bacalar, Q.R., Mexico, bocadeagua.com
TRAVEL
Book
LOST IN BUDAPEST
Flicking through, you couldn’t blame us for thinking this book is full of behind-the-scenes images from a new Wes Anderson film. Yet the picturesque buildings are actually real, and so are the luminous colors: We’re in Budapest. To kill time before our next city break, we’re committing to memorizing every picture from “Budapest Gem,” which captures the city’s lively spirit to a tee.
András Török, Oliver Pilcher, “Budapest Gem”, Assouline, approx. 100.—, assouline.com
We Love
GREEK HARMONY
Summer is drawing to a close. But instead of wistfully catching the last of the summer’s rays, we’re simply planning our next sun-kissed adventure. Opened in May this
year, the Gundari Resort on the Greek island of Folegandros is likely to keep spoiling us with plenty of summer vibes over the coming months. The villas and
suites ensure privacy, while a private pool with a sea view keeps thoughts of the fall season at bay. Gundari Resort, 84011 Folegandros, Cyclades, Greece, gundari.com
“ I quit flying years ago. I don’t want to die with tourists.”
Billy Bob Thornton
Nice to Have
ISLAND-READY
Let’s go to Ibiza! If you can’t physically follow this call to action, then the book “Ibiza Bohemia” is your remedy. Page by page, the spirit of the island is brought to life, so much so that, with a little bit of imagination, it almost feels as though you’re at the beach. And to give our
mental imagery an even more vivid spark while flicking through the pages, we light the scented candle that comes with the book. Renu Kashyap, Maya Boyd, “Ibiza Bohemia,” Assouline, approx. 102.— and “Ibiza Bohemia,” candle, approx. 73.—, assouline.com
Unfuck the World BONFIRE ROMANCE
We all know that air travel isn’t environmentally friendly. Camping in the wilderness sounds like it’s more in tune with the natural world. However, camping and outdoor equipment is often not produced under fair and sustainable conditions. Elisa Fuchs and Patrick Lenzbauer from Graz, Austria, have a solution: Their online shop Ethicamper has everything a camping enthusiast needs for an adventure in the great outdoors—all produced fairly and using sustainable materials. The couple loves to get into nature themselves, so you can trust their tips with some confidence: Both Elisa and Patrick personally compare and test each product. Only those products that they are sure about from an ethical and moral point of view end up on their online shop. So, have a browse through what Ethicamper has to offer, get your backpack ready, and let’s go! ethicamper.com
Places ESCAPE
The closer winter gets, the more we dream of heading south. A quick trip to Spain before the cold hits? Sounds like a plan. Our chosen hideaway is called Palau Fugit Hotel and is located in picturesque Girona. There’s so much to explore in the city — bike paths or hiking trails, for example. But the hotel’s interior is so beautiful that you could just as easily spend a week hiding yourself away. Each room is one of a kind, and it’s hard to decide what we like best: The dark green accents, the pink walls, or the velvet couches. Here, you can truly live la vida plena, as the hosts call it.
Palau Fugit Hotel Carrer Bonaventura Carreras i Peralta 4 17004 Girona, Spain palaufugit.com
If your favourite way to discover the world is on a skateboard, but you’re not one for packing lightly, then Floyd has the perfect compromise: Brightlycolored luggage that rolls on skateboard wheels. There’s nothing boring about these sturdy suitcases: New colors and different sizes keep you guessing. And if you want to disappear to some far-flung place fully equipped, cop the bag too. floyd.one
WATCHES
Take care of the minutes, the hours take care of themselves.
It’s just not fashion week without her: Bella Hadid has surely walked the distance of a few marathons on the world’s runways. As brand ambassador for Chopard, for once the 2022 Model of the Year didn’t have to walk, but instead demonstrated her skills in front of the camera. The jewelry and watches from the heritage watch brand almost have to take a back seat thanks to Bella’s effortless charm. chopard.com
Ciao Bella
JOIE DE VIVRE
Retrofuturism
CLASSIC RELOADED
Not everything was better in the past, but many things were a little more beautiful. That’s why the 50s aesthetic remains undefeated to this day and serves as an effervescent source of inspiration throughout art, culture, and fashion. The high point of the decade saw Vacheron Constantin
release the reference 6073:
A round, elegant, and timeless watch — and one of the first with a self-winding movement. We’re not the only ones pining nostalgically for this era. The heritage watch brand is joining in too, launching the ultimate homage to this much-loved decade
with “Fiftysix”. Christian Selmoni, Style and Heritage Director of Vacheron Constantin, describes the watch, once loved by Marlon Brando and now sported by the likes of Tom Cruise, as “modern with a retro touch”. Vacheron Constantin, “Fiftysix”, vacheron-constantin.com
New Constellations HYPNOTIZE ME
Looking at your wrist and immediately forgetting what time it is — with the “Constellation Collection” from Omega, this isn’t a matter of scattiness, but of being utterly hypnotized by the watch face. The pattern recalls the endless expanse of the starry sky. What’s a few minutes anyway when every look at your timepiece is a reminder of the endless wonder of the universe? The collection is particularly ideal for collectors and comes in three different sizes: 29 mm, 28 mm, and 25 mm. Different colors and materials like classic stainless steel and gold and shiny leather straps give you scope to design your watch to match your unique personal style. omegawatches.com
Philosophy
MYTH
Does art only exist in museums? According to Jaeger-LeCoultre, it doesn’t. With the limited edition of its “Master Hybris Artistica Calibre
Allrounder
WORLD PREMIERE
Waking up and not knowing what time it is, much less what day it is? Happens to the best of us. The famous Patek Philippe world time watch wasn’t actually created for hangover days; its story dates back to the 1930s with the emergence of transatlantic passenger flights. The watch displays the time in all 24 time zones, simultaneously and constantly. The new 5330G 001 world time watch goes a step further: It has a date display that is synchronized with the time. With this piece of jewelry on your wrist, you’ll never be lost again — physically or mentally. Patek Philippe, “World time watch reference 5330G 001,” patek.com
945”, the prestigious company has built quite possibly the world’s smallest display case into a watch. In the bezel sits a three-dimensional dragon, while behind it is nothing short of a star constellation spanning the entire universe. Don’t be surprised if you completely forget to check the time in between gazing in amazement and philosophizing about the cosmos.
If you were to ever travel back in time to 120 years ago, you’d probably need a few days to get over the culture shock. That being said, some things weren’t all that different in those days. The unmistakable “Santos” from Cartier, for example, was created in 1904. It was the first modern watch designed to be worn on the wrist — for the pilot Santos-Dumont so that he could keep an eye on the time while flying. Back to the present day, actor Jake Gyllenhaal can be seen sporting the four-cornered timepiece. There could hardly be a more fitting brand ambassador: He has featured in a film about the “Santos” directed by Seb Edwards and was also part of the “Time Project” by Sølve Sundsbø, which explores the relationship between Cartier and time in twelve chapters. Cartier, “Santos”, cartier.com
LIVING & DESIGN
The Star
ICONIC
Venetian palazzos, restaurants in Aspen, homes in Bel Air: Interior designer Giampiero Tagliaferri leaves behind his fingerprints in every room he touches. His two home cities of Milan and Los Angeles are reflected in his designs. After all, classical Italian beauty is at one with Californian modernity. Add a pinch of nostalgia and voilà, you have “Pattie,” Tagliaferri’s design for Minotti. Sweeping lines and luxurious upholstery recall the 1970s — an era that was a particularly popular source of inspiration at this year’s Milan Design Week. Minotti, “Pattie,” chair, approx. 7,120.—, minotti.com
He’s never short on smiles or design ideas: Giampiero Tagliaferri.
Dream Team
FUTURE NOSTALGIA
How do you bring your favorite cozy but worn out armchair up to date and save it from its dustcollecting destiny?
By unleashing fashion designer Tiziano Guardini and architect and designer Luigi Ciuffreda, that’s how. On behalf of B&B Italia, the two emerging talents created “Narinari,” which has immediately
become our favorite spot in the living room. Its unusual shape awakens the imagination and is reminiscent of expertly folded origami or a bird landing on a perch — so, definitely not our old TV armchair, which we’ve immediately banished from our home. B&B Italia, “Narinari,” armchair, approx. 3,220.—, bebitalia.com
Saving space CAMPING INDOORS
No-one would associate folding chairs with the pinnacle of design. Instead we picture festivals and campgrounds. But now Flexform has converted us, turning this practical seating option into the centerpiece of the living room. Comfortable leather and an elegant curved design make sure the foldable chair can keep pace with any cozy armchair. Perfect for anyone who’s ever wanted to bring camping vibes into their home. Minus the heat, midges, and mud, of course, and with plenty of style instead. flexform.it/en
Anniversary
MADE IN ITALY
You have to celebrate when you reach the 90-year mark! But how do you curate a literary summary in a world in which fewer and fewer people are reading books? By introducing a cinematic spin, of course. Angelo
and Giuseppina founded their company 90 years ago. The book “Molteni Mondo: An Italian Design Story” celebrates decades of creativity. And aims to make those flicking through it imagine a movie that
tells the story of the brand’s many years of success. Spencer Bailey “Molteni Mondo: An Italian Design Story,” Rizzoli New York, approx. 85.—, molteni.it/en
Roll it!: 90 years of design history are better told through pictures than through words.
“ Design is so simple. That’s why it’s so complicated.”
Paul Rand
For some of us, getting ourselves motivated to exercise is a chore. The right playlist, check; outfit, check. And still we have to drag ourselves to the gym only halfenthused. What has been missing all this time is a piece of equipment that’s so stylish, it’s making us want to convert our living room into a fitness studio. Technogym’s bench with storage space for dumbbells has had a makeover to celebrate the company’s 40th birthday: 40 designers were invited to let their creative juices flow and lend the Technogym Bench their personal touch. All bases were covered: From wild patterns, colors, and textures, to fringing, leather, and graffiti. You could easily forget that what’s in front of you is a piece of sporting equipment and not a work of art. We’d love to collect them all and turn the gym lifestyle that only resides in our imagination into reality. technogym.com
SEDUCTIVE CHIC EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE SMOKED UP
Photography: Patrick Walter
Styling: Johannes Jorge Hölkeskamp
Hair & Make-up: Wiebke Reich
Assistance: Max Sauer
Model: Mia Strelzyk, Modelwerk
Bodysuit and skirt by GUESS. Jacket by MARCIANO BY GUESS.
Stockings by WOLFORD. Shoes VINTAGE.
Blazer
Dress by FILIPPA K.
Shoes by KONSTANTIN STARKE. Ring and necklace by RIMA.
Dress by MARCEL OSTERTAG. Boots by JIMMY CHOO.
Jewelry by RIMA.
Coat
Blouse, blazer and pants by DRYKORN. Shoes by STUART WEITZMAN. Earrings by RIMA.
Blazer and pants by DRYKORN. Shoes by STEVE MADDEN. Necklace by PEARL OCTOPUSS.Y.
Blouse and coat by MARCEL OSTERTAG. Boots by DIOR.
Jumpsuit and blazer by MARCIANO BY GUESS. Earrings by PEARL OCTOPUSS.Y.
Pants by MAX MARA. Gloves VINTAGE. Jewelry by PEARL OCTOPUSS.Y.
Has the so-called American Dream ever existed, this ominous promise of equal opportunities and freedom for all? For marginalized groups, it was never more than a fictional construct. MexicanAmerican photojournalist Philip Montgomery captures the dark flip side of this myth: racism, police violence and social inequality. He stages these issues in black-andwhite and with a keen eye for aesthetics and detail.
The photographs by Philip Montgomery are part of the photo book “ XL Photography 7”, published by the Art Collection Deutsche Börse. It is one of the most important international collections of contemporary photography and is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year.
Photography: Philip Montgomery, Deutsche Börse Photography Foundation
Scenes that could be straight out of a movie. State police, George Floyd protests, Minnesota, May 2020
Which is more American: A cowboy hat or destruction? Protest for George Floyd #5, Minnesota, May 2020
Political explosiveness artfully composed. Tatma Degeyndt, Brooklyn paramedic, New York, March 2020
Where there is injustice, there is resistance. Black Lives Matter march, Detroit, Michigan, June 2020
As surreal as a fever dream: this is as true of life in America as it is of Philip Montgomery’s photographs. Trophy room, Hurricane Harvey, Houston, Texas, 2017
This body language suggests one thing: the police are nearby. Canfield Drive II, Ferguson, Missouri, August 2014
XL PHOTOGRAPHY 7: ART COLLECTION DEUTSCHE BÖRSE
Attention photography fans: This book is a must for your collection. 22 artists dedicated to the challenges of politics and society fill 188 visually stunning pages. The Art Collection Deutsche Börse is one of the most important international collections of contemporary photography and now comprises over 2,300 works by around 160 artists. Since 2019, Kehrer Verlag has been publishing newly acquired positions in anthologies in the “ XL Photography” series, which is now entering its seventh round.
“XL Photography 7: Art Collection Deutsche Börse ”, Kehrer, approx. 55.–, kehrerverlag.com
Horror movie scenario in real life. Lauren Returns Home, Houston, Texas, 2017
GRAVEYARD GIRL ICON
Goths just wanna have fun. Winona Ryder photographed for AnOther Magazine and styled by Gucci.
Still not jaded, even after 40 years in Tinseltown.
She is a Victorian goblet on a shelf full of pink Stanley cups. Actress Winona Ryder has always been more Halloween than Hollywood, and that is precisely why she has remained an exception to the rule in Tinseltown — and the patron saint of all those teenagers who also like to don a pair of black lace-up boots to a summer picnic in the park.
Text: Michael Rechsteiner
Fotos:
Craig McDean
She was thrust into the spotlight for the first time on a couch. But the spotlight bounced off a black straw hat the size of a bath mat. Around her neck she wore a camera that looked as heavy as a ship’s anchor, but in reality it was her key to this world and the next. Winona Ryder’s appearance as Lydia Deetz in the movie “Beetlejuice” instantly turned the then 15-year-old into a star. With raven-black clothes, snow-white skin, and purple-tinged shadows around her eyes, she gave a color palette favored by young rebels its big screen moment. Sure, Hollywood had flirted with goth chic before. But fictional characters like Vampira and Elvira didn’t become cult divas by revealing an inner spiritual abyss, but because their tight-fitting outfits gave a revealing glimpse at other parts of them. But with Lydia Deetz, Winona Ryder created the prototype of the secretly happy goth. Someone who enjoys the fact that the world doesn’t understand them. Someone whose sarcasm and melancholia serve as a shield against those who don’t feel the urge to carve a spooky face into a pumpkin, place a candle inside and put it in their window before it’s even fall, but just settle for ordering a pumpkin spice latte from Starbucks instead. Yet every point of difference is also an invitation attracting kindred spirits, even if it makes them all the more difficult to find. The internet now presents all misfits with a subcultural algorithm of like-minded people. But in the 1980s, thanks to Lydia Deetz, all those whose circle of friends consisted of a poster of The Cure and whose Friday evenings were spent downing one coffee after another found themselves seen and understood for perhaps the first time. Teenagers want to be original, but not lonely. This small woman under the huge hat gave many of them the feeling that there must be more of them out there. And that great things lay ahead for them— just like the girl playing Lydia. After all, at that time her situation wasn’t so different from her cinematic character’s.
SOMEWHERE OVER THE RAINBOW
Winona was born in 1971 on a farm in, er, Winona in the state of Minnesota. A year earlier, her parents founded the Fitz Hugh Ludlow Memorial Library in San Francisco. At the
time, it was the world’s largest library of books on psychoactive drugs. With that, they also laid the foundations for an extraordinary childhood for the young Winona. With babysitters like Beat pioneer Lawrence Ferlinghetti and LSD advocate Timothy Leary, she spent her early days in a commune called Rainbow. Her mother projected Hollywood classics onto bedsheets and, although the young girl couldn’t yet understand what was going on, she nevertheless developed an irrepressible love of movies. This exhilarating, alternative environment molded Winona into an old soul with a youthful spirit from an early age. Together with her tomboyish appearance and fashion sense, this meant she wasn’t accepted with open arms at elementary school and later at high school. But Winona could at least temporarily escape from the bullying by enrolling in an acting academy, and, at the age of 13, she landed her first role in a movie. She debuted in the drama “Lucas” alongside Corey Haim and Charlie Sheen — exhibits A and B of the damage Hollywood can cause to young stars. And Winona’s parents were all too aware of this. To keep their daughter away from the temptations between Sunset Boulevard and Mulholland Drive, they didn’t move to Los Angeles to support their child’s budding acting career, instead opting for a seven-hour drive in the old family Volvo each time she had an audition. The Volvo was parked not far from a studio in the L.A. neighborhood of Culver City when Winona Ryder made perhaps the most important acquaintance of her life. Outside the building, the teenager got talking to a young, shock-headed guy she assumed was a production assistant. The two got talking about all kinds of things, including the artist Edward Gorey and the actor Peter Lorre — names that would have meant nothing to Winona’s then-classmates. When she asked the guy what time this director by the name of Tim Burton would be showing up, he introduced himself as the very same. And cast the girl with choppy bangs and eyes as big as Oreo cookies in his next movie “Beetlejuice” on the spot.
SUICIDE BLONDES & VAMPIRE KILLERS
Following the success of the gaudy horror-comedy, the
A pioneer of breaking away from Hollywood traditions.
There
Winona Ryder’s ladder to the top.
“ There are three things Hollywood loves more than anything: Filler, franchises, and a fabulous comeback story.”
world was at Winona’s feet. She went for any opportunity that her management would rather have steered her well away from: “Heathers” is a satire about teen suicide and school shootings from a time when this issue was still something reserved for cinema, not weekly news bulletins. Today, Winona’s portrayal of a brunette in a world full of blonds has cult status. But at the time, audiences gave “Heathers” a berth as wide as they would a badly hit croquet ball. It didn’t matter: Winona’s insistence on starring in the movie against the advice of her agents showed that the then 16-year-old wanted to lay her own path to success — a path that often followed strange but all the more exciting twists and turns. Just a year later, Winona celebrated another blockbuster with “Edward Scissorhands,” directed once again by Tim Burton.
Years on Hollywood’s A list ensued. Winona Ryder appeared in “Bram Stoker’s Dracula” (a movie Lydia Deetz would have loved) directed by Francis Ford Coppola. To this day, it’s not clear whether it’s Keanu Reeves’ British accent or the bloodthirsty vampire that constitutes the horror aspect of this movie. In Martin Scorsese’s opulent costume drama “The Age of Innocence,” Winona established herself as a multifaceted actress, receiving her first Oscar nomination. And in 1999, with “Girl, Interrupted,” she finally succeeded in not only landing the lead role, but also helping to realize a project she had long held close to her heart as executive producer. The screen adaptation tells the story of a friendship between two women in a psychiatric hospital, and launched the career of Angelina Jolie.
WELCOME TO HOLLYWEIRD
But it wasn’t just Winona’s on-screen personas that were reaching the limits of their mental capacity. She had spent a decade in front of the movie camera, and also as the object of the paparazzi’s intrusions. And as a reluctant It Girl who shuffled along the red carpet in second-hand clothes and who had now not only come to represent the outsiders in the schoolyard, but had also been elevated to an icon of the lost and aimless Gen X. Winona’s love of movies
BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE
Back to the beginning: Winona Ryder is reprising the role that once made her a star. Lydia Deetz is now herself a mother to a moody teenager (Jenna Ortega). When, after a bereavement, the family returns to their old home for the burial, the ghost and bio-exorcist Betelgeuse (Michael Keaton) returns to the scene, still searching for a bride from the land of the living. Director Tim Burton’s revival is a hit: The sequel clings onto the chaotic charm and morbid look of the original like wet soil to a graveyard shovel.
remained undeterred — her love of the movie industry and all its leeches, on the other hand, had been completely eroded. It therefore came as something of a relief when, in 2001, Winona Ryder was embroiled in a non-scandal after being caught shoplifting. She took clothes worth over 5,000 dollars from a boutique in Beverly Hills. Looking back, the actress can’t remember what prompted her to do it. In interviews, she cites a possible combination of drowsiness from pain medication, stress-related forgetfulness, and an unconscious desire to be caught. The press went into a frenzy; it was as though Winona had flown a third plane into the Towers. She was given three years’ probation — and an urgently needed break from La La Land.
COMEBACK QUEEN
There are three things Hollywood loves more than anything: Filler, franchises, and a fabulous comeback story. Winona doesn’t need the first. She’s skeptical about the second (she’s yet to even see a Marvel movie). But she conquered the third in 2016 with the series “Stranger Things.” On this visual mixtape full of 80s nostalgia, Winona Ryder is the power ballad. As apprehensive and overbearing mother Joyce Byers, she represents the bleeding, beating heart in the midst of the show’s mystery-horror themes. And it’s the perfect way to get reacquainted for all day-one fans, who perhaps have to deal with real-life Lydias at the dinner table by now. This is exactly what’s happened to the fictional Miss Deetz in the new movie “Beetlejuice Beetlejuice.” In this long-awaited sequel, Winona Ryder appears alongside Jenna Ortega. That up-and-coming star who, since appearing as the lead in the series “Wednesday” with her raven-black clothes, snow-white skin, and purple-tinged shadows around her eyes, is showing a new generation how to upstage the prom queens on the dance floor to a song by The Cramps. The archetype once established by Winona Ryder of the stand-offish sarcastic girl with the black dress and heart of gold continues to flourish in our pop culture even 30 years on — in the shadows and the pouring rain, of course.
LUCKY
READY FOR LOVE
Lucky Love is France’s crown prince of pop and a musical muse for Gucci and Maison Margiela. His rise is a tale of overcoming tragedy and uncovering a sense of “ tendresse”, and is now culminating in triumph. Lana Del Rey, Mark Ronson, Jennifer Coolidge, and John Galliano all call themselves fans. And us? Well, we’re blown away too.
Text:
Michael Rechsteiner – Photos: Fullblvck & Frankie Allio
“As soon as we begin to breathe, as soon as life begins, anything is possible.” Lucky Love’s optimism is contagious. When they come from his mouth, these words don’t just sound like a clichéd inspirational quote that your aunt sends you on WhatsApp with a picture of a sunrise. Rather, they’re the upshot of a life story that has been extraordinary so far. Born in northern France, Luc Bruyère drew strength, patience, and inspiration from seemingly impossible circumstances to launch his career in the fashion and music industries—a career that is currently on a steep upward trajectory. We catch Lucky for an interview on his first concert tour, which has taken him to such places as Switzerland, Canada, and Georgia.
Lucky Love has felt like he has been living in a daydream for the past year and a half. For a born dreamer like him, that’s no bad thing. But: “ You can’t choose how your dreams come true. It just happens. And when it happens, you need to be ready for it. I wasn’t to begin with and at first I just pretended to be. But now, I feel ready. I know: Yeah, that makes sense. Right now, I’m where I’m meant to be.” In the summer, the singer released his new single “ I’m Ready”, following on from his debut EP “ Tendresse” released the previous year, which offered a more in-depth insight into his work for the first time. With an array of introspective ballads and upbeat pop songs, Lucky Love presented himself as a complex artist, one who explores the depths of human emotion but at the same time appeals to as wide an audience as possible. It wasn’t long before his fans started to include some prominent names. Sam Smith and Lana Del Rey shared Lucky’s songs online. John Galliano offered the Frenchman the opportunity to appear at the presentation of Maison Margiela’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Not long after that, his song “ Masculinity” was chosen for the soundtrack to the Gucci show at Milan Fashion Week. The music selection was curated by Mark Ronson, who once produced for Lucky’s idol Amy Winehouse. “ She was the first one who inspired me to express my feelings through music. To be authentic, to show myself in a vulnerable light, and to share this with the world.”
Luc has been through quite a journey to arrive at these conclusions. He was born with only one arm, which led to a lonely and tormented childhood. As a teenager, fashion and outlandish outfits were his way of escaping the stares he attracted on the street. “ I grew up in a medium-sized town in France. Everyone dressed the same there; no-one seemed to develop their own personality and express this through their clothing choices. But, because of my arm, I never fit in in this society anyway. So I thought, if people are going to stare at me anyway, I want it to be because of my clothing style and not my disability. Fashion allowed me to create an avatar. I became the person I wanted to be. And not the person nature had made me.”
It wasn’t just fashion that sparked the flame of the young Luc’s inner creativity. He started dancing from as early as the age of five, while at 15 he enrolled at the Institut Saint-Luc art school in Belgium. For the first time, the outsider felt he was among like-minded people; however, at the same time, he became consumed by an eating disorder and drug addiction. On his 19th
“ Be patient, man. One day, everything will make sense.”
birthday, he found out he was HIV positive. Instead of sinking into despair, he felt a new vital energy surge within him. With a renewed sense of focus, Luc moved to Paris, where he attended the Cours Florent drama school on the recommendation of movie director Abdellatif Kechiche (“ Blue Is the Warmest Color”). It was in the legendary drag bar Madame Arthur that the born performer developed his artistic persona La Vénus aux Milles Hommes (LVMH, a cheeky play on the luxury fashion house of the same name) and sang live in front of an audience for the first time.
When a casting director discovered Luc in a bar, a career as a model seemed to be the next logical step for this charismatic star-in-waiting. But the industry was still putting up barriers back then. Lucky believes the fashion industry has done a lot in terms of encouraging inclusion over the past five years. But is this always for the right reasons? “ In the beginning it felt great, empowering. I loved it. We should be celebrating all forms of beauty. Whether you have a disability, are overweight, are trans — all of that should be celebrated. But now a lot of it feels like a marketing scheme.” In some places, actual acceptance has morphed into a sales tactic.
Nevertheless, Lucky Love found a way into the fashion scene. Not because of his body, but because of his musical and lyrical talent — the boy who spent most of his childhood alone now counts the creative director of Gucci, Sabato De Sarno, as one of his close friends. What piece of advice would Lucky give to his younger, often sad self? “ Not to pay any mind to people who wanted to make me believe that I didn’t belong in this world. And I would remind myself to be patient. Because one day you’ll find the family that you need. And the people that make you feel that you belong. Everything that happened in my childhood, my missing arm, and even my addictions—everything that I’ve been through now goes into my music. In some ways, I needed to go through all of that to be in a position to share my message with the world now. Be patient, man. One day, everything will make sense.”
I’M READY
He’s ready to love. And ready for a global career too for that matter. With his latest single “ I’m Ready,” Lucky Love is setting the stage for his international breakthrough. The Frenchman is a master of pop music that radiates drama and warmth in equal measure. In the music video for the song, he recalls his artistic beginnings as a dancer and finds the family he’d been looking for all through the previous decades. Lucky Love resumes his tour in autumn, playing concerts in places like Prague, Barcelona, Paris, Milan, and Berlin.
@thisisluckylove
Through his music, Lucky Love is now exploring a world in which many people struggle to find meaning and beauty. But the singer dishes out hearty portions of optimism too, and talks about it in no uncertain terms in his new single. “ The world is currently reverting back to its old ways. I can’t believe that there are still wars going on. But this is also why, in ‘I’m Ready,’ I sing: I’m ready to love. Are you ready? Because so often in our history we’ve found ways to hate. And look where that’s got us. What if we tried to love? What if we tried to understand? What if we tried to sympathize? Not to judge? Not to have an opinion on everything? And I think the world is actually trying. That makes me really hopeful. There are a lot of people out there who think this way. Who long for peace. We need to give them the space to spread their message. I’m French, so I grew up with protests. It’s in my blood. We need to fight for a better life because, at the moment, the world is a sad place. But I do think that the sun shines brightest after every big storm.” Lucky Love’s wonderful dance in the spotlight is the best testament to this theory.
BOLD URBAN DYNAMIC RUSH VIVID METROPOLIS
Photography: Patrick Schwalb
Photography Assistance: Anton Gattung
Styling: Jochen Pohlmann
Hair & Make-up: Berenice Ammann
Model: Jona Gudsdottirmund
Blouse by JIL SANDER. Shirt, pants and shoes by LORO PIANA. Socks by FALKE. Sunglasses by BOTTEGA VENETA.
Look by GUCCI.
by FENDI.
Look
Look
KOMA.
Look by
Blouse by JOSEPH. Skirt by BRUNELLO CUCINELLI.
Stockings by WOLFORD.
Shoes by LORO PIANA.
Cardigan by GANNI. Jacket by DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER. Skirt by GANT. Shoes by JIMMY CHOO. Necklace by AKKESOIR.
Sweater by MAIAMI. Skirt by JOSEPH. Stockings by FALKE.
Shoes by JIMMY CHOO.
SYMPATHY FOR
Nicolai Marciano wears the pants at Guess Jeans. And has big plans for the brand.
DENIM THE
Not feeling blue at all: Model Iris Law is one of the brand testimonials.
Nicolai Marciano is part of American fashion royalty. He may not have blue blood flowing through his veins, but his heart beats for blue jeans. The son of Guess co-founder Paul Marciano has provided crucial impetus for the family business in recent years through innovative collaborations and events. Now, the 27-year-old is launching a new line of Guess Jeans as creative director. To celebrate the brand’s launch, flagship stores have been opened across the globe, including in Berlin. In this interview, Nicolai Marciano talks about how to get young people excited about a traditional brand, what kind of music is on his playlist, and which item of clothing reminds him of his childhood.
FACES: Congratulations on the first Guess Jeans store in Berlin. What thoughts went into the design and location of the store?
Nicolai Marciano: The spatial design concept is very consistent with the world of Guess Jeans. We incorporated some local references to the Berlin subway into the store design. I’m really interested in ceramic finishes like the ones used in the interior design of the subway stations, so it made sense to include an homage to the city. We’re pleased with the location of the store; we like the mix of tenants and the community of businesses in the area.
F: What challenges do brands have to overcome to draw customers away from online shopping and attract them to these bricks-and-mortar stores?
NM: I think retail outlets will always be a very important element when it comes to experiencing a brand. Developing a digital world is of course necessary and effective. But if you are able to attract consumers to a physical space with the right design, sounds, smells, and merchandising, then that’s the kind of lasting impression that we want to leave behind for our next generation of consumers. Particularly in our case, establishing a new chapter within the wider Guess ecosystem, the new concept highlights subtle differences between the labels.
F: The upcoming Guess Jeans line incorporates a new technology called Airwash, which is more environmentally friendly and sustainable. How does this work?
NM: Guess Airwash is a new process for producing denim which drastically reduces water consumption and the use of chemicals to make clothing that is much more environmentally friendly. Compared to traditional stonewash pieces, this method saves up to 80% of water and doesn’t use any toxic chemicals or stones during the production process. We hope that this process will be adopted by the whole industry over the coming years.
F: Which famous person, dead or alive, embodies the spirit of the new Guess Jeans line the best?
NM: Lenny Kravitz will always be a much-loved American icon.
F: During your training at Guess, did you ever take a look through the brand’s extensive archive to get to know its story? Did you find anything in there that
Text: Michael Rechsteiner
Photos: Guess Jeans
particularly grabbed your attention?
NM: When I browsed through the Guess archive for the first time, it was an explosive experience. I not only discovered a complete Guess aesthetic that I didn’t even know existed, but I also found an aesthetic and style that resonated with me as a 17-year-old. I loved the choice of colors and the graphics. It was a different sense of fun that I’d never associated with Guess before.
F: After your training, you established the Guess name among a younger audience. What do some companies get wrong when trying to appeal to Gen Z?
NM: I’m a firm believer in storytelling, constructing worlds, and creating memories. This was always a focus of my initiatives for the company and our new endeavors.
F: You’ve released brand collaborations with music artists like A$AP Rocky and J Balvin. Guess also had its own compound at Coachella this year. What kind of music does Nicolai Marciano have on his playlist?
NM: Honestly, I like lots of genres and styles of music, depending on how I feel at that moment and where I am. My playlist would be quite eclectic, ranging from bands like Khruangbin to the likes of Nina Kraviz and Don Toliver. I’m always on the lookout for new artists and music and am keen to find out more about them.
GUESS JEANS
All the leaves are brown and the skies are gray? On murky days like these, we appreciate the bright blue of denim jeans all the more. Just in time for autumn, Guess Jeans is taking a whole new generation to California Dreamin’. The debut collection includes jeans, shirts, and jackets for men and women, along with classics like t-shirts, hoodies, bomber jackets, and down jackets. Embracing a timeless West Coast vibe, the line of jeans points the way to a more sustainable future thanks to its innovative Airwash technology. Even while waiting at a rainy bus stop, it will feel like you’re hitchhiking along the Big Sur Highway.
guessjeans.com
F: Whether it’s in pop culture or in fashion, a feeling of nostalgia — perhaps even for something you’ve never actually experienced — seems to be attractive not only to older people, but to the younger generation too. Would you agree?
NM: I think nostalgia is a very attractive feeling for people. It arouses your curiosity and a sense of storytelling. It’s inspiring to immerse yourself in an authentic story from the past. There’s something alluring and fascinating about it.
F: Do you have a childhood memory that relates to fashion or a particular item of clothing?
NM: I was a big fan of Jordan and Nike as a kid. From basketball shorts to a new pair of Air Force Ones. I used to love taking a new pair of shoes out of its box.
F: Do you hope that, in 50 years’ time, another Marciano will take the helm at Guess, or do you not see it as a family business?
NM: Absolutely. Continuing the legacy that Paul and his brothers have built is very important for me and the family. Future generations have to carry it forward.
JEWELS
When they are in the spotlight, they sparkle right down to the last row. Immortality is already assured for them in the present. And sometimes we too have to shriek hysterically with happiness when we see them from afar. Yet when it comes to singing, they stay quiet. So, er, of course we’re talking about statement and cocktail rings. Clear the stage for some of the most beautiful examples.
POMELLATO, ring with white and brown diamonds, with a 3.45 carat tsavorite, price on request.
CHANEL, “ Graphic Line”, ring in white gold, platinum, diamonds, mandarin garnet and green lacquer, price on request.
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, “ Aurigae”, ring in white gold, with an oval sapphire of 16.58 carats, with black spinel and diamonds, price on request.
CARTIER, “ Yasifan”, ring in white gold, with tourmaline, rubies and diamonds, price on request.
MESSIKA, “ So Move”, ring with pavé- and baguette-cut diamonds, price on request.
BUCHERER, cocktail ring ombre, in 18 carat rose gold, with 56 round-cut sapphires, approx. 42'000.—
BOUCHERON, “ Chinha, l’aigle Tanzanite”, ring in 18 carat white gold, with 134 round diamonds, 96 round sapphires, 44 baguette sapphires, approx. 75'800.—
CHOPARD, ring in 18 carat ethical white and yellow gold, set with a 26.36 carat radiant-cut yellow diamond and two crescent-shaped white diamonds, price on request.
GUCCI, “ Labirinti”, bracelet with a 35.69 carat aquamarine, Paraiba tourmalines and green diamonds in white gold, price on request.
PIAGET, ring in 750 /1000 rose gold, set with 1 cushion-cut spessartite, yellow sapphires and diamonds, unique creation, price on request.
VISIONI FEMMINILI KLICK
Female Gaze: When women look instead of being looked at.
In front of Lucia Giacani’s lens, women are not supposed to take on the role of an object.
A beautiful young woman stands in front of the camera, an older man behind it: A tale as old as the fashion industry itself. But now the tides have turned. Italian fashion photographer Lucia Giacani directs the women before her lens in colorful and curious ways, creating worlds that lie somewhere between high fashion and Alice in Wonderland. Women feel comfortable in front of her camera, and take on roles that are a far cry from the stereotypical object of desire. Yet aesthetics and beauty don’t simply fall by the wayside either.
Photography: Lucia Giacani
Details, details, details: No thing is randomly placed here.
Legende wie man ein bild selbst beschreiben als kann. Oder einfach ein guten Satz dazu einfällt.
No one can stop time.
REJECT THE OBJECT
In this interview, Lucia Giacani reveals how she carved out her route into the world of fashion, where the industry needs to do better, and why she loves to photograph red-haired women the most.
Interview: Josefine Zürcher
FACES: The fashion industry is a male domain—except when it comes to the models. How do you challenge gender roles and stereotypes through your work? And how does it feel to work in a male-dominated industry?
Lucia Giacani: It’s true that fashion photography is still dominated by men. That was even more the case at the start of my career. But I’ve also worked with a lot of gay men and lesbian women, so I don’t think we should see everything in such black and white terms and use categories like male and female. Success is really down to good taste. Early on in my career, I worked a lot with Elisabetta Barracchia, Sara Minor, and the then editor-in-chief of Italian Vogue, Franca Sozzani. Even back then, the toxic masculinity of the old guard of photographers, editors in chief, and picture editors was a thing of the past.
F: Your work features in an exhibition on female fashion photography. What would you like to convey to visitors about the fashion industry and particularly about the different and often overlooked roles that women play within it?
LG: The fact is that women have to work harder to become photographers. People don’t want to trust you with a big budget because men are seen as more reputable and safer bets. Women are often seen as fragile and risky. And then there are those people who are convinced that women are less technically adept. I
LUCIA GIACANI
Vogue, Glamour, Allure, Esquire, Elle – that’s Lucia Giacani’s CV. In addition to her publications in fashion magazines, she has also held numerous exhibitions. As a child, Giacani was fascinated by Italian Vogue and soon realised that she wanted to become a fashion photographer. She has been working in the fashion industry since the late nineties and her photographs have repeatedly challenged classic stereotypes of women. luciagiacani.com
hope that these opinions will soon be consigned to the past and that the next generation of female photographers will find them shocking and almost unimaginable.
F: What made you want to be a fashion photographer?
LG: I always read Italian Vogue as a girl and young woman. Vogue had such a magical quality in the nineties and noughties and literally transported readers to another world. Fashion photography was incredibly creative and majestic. My takeaway from this was that fashion photography is a career that affords you a huge amount of artistic satisfaction and creative freedom, and it can also pay the bills.
F: How did you find your way into the world of fashion photography?
LG: Right at the start, I asked magazines and stylists in Milan if I could produce editorials for them. I wasn’t even living in Milan at the time and the only thing I had to show for myself was one black and white portfolio and one color one featuring my work, with my friends as models. The fact that the magazines gave me work regardless was definitely a sign of their trust.
F: Was it difficult to establish yourself in the industry?
LG: I was lucky in that I picked the right people to work with at the start of my career; they’re all still working in the industry and are all top professionals. But you also need to have good judgment. It’s a difficult industry to be successful in. But risk and experimentation are all part of it, and everything gets easier with expe-
rience. The atmosphere on set can be emotionally charged until everyone’s eventually happy with the results. You need to trust yourself and keep everything under control. If you do a good job and behave professionally toward the people you’re working with, that’s a good start, but you also need to be ambitious. Nowadays it’s probably easier to become a photographer, but it’s definitely harder to stand out from the crowd.
F: What do you personally see as your greatest success?
LG: The fact that Franca Sozzani has chosen my photos for various magazine covers.
F: Which other female photographers have inspired you along the way?
LG: There weren’t so many women working in fashion photography when I was growing up and, to be honest, it wasn’t something I really paid much attention to either. Overall, the American photographer Francesca Woodman is the one who’s inspired me the most up to this point.
F: In your opinion, how do you approach fashion photography differently to a man?
LG: Gender and sexuality always bring a different perspective, whether you’re a man or a woman. Personally, I always like to put a bit of myself into my photography. I treat the women that I photograph with more empathy. And as a woman, I have a better understanding of the needs and desires of female readers and the female audience, and their reactions to my pictures. Younger female models also often feel more comfortable with a female photographer. One of the many reasons I prefer photographing women is that I can see the shots from a first-person perspective.
F: What could the fashion industry do better when it comes to the women behind the scenes?
LG: There are a few things. For instance, I think that a woman’s looks shouldn’t come into play when it comes to promoting female photographers. There are brands, magazines, and female photographers that advertise themselves as eye candy but then still cite some flimsy feminist manifesto. I find this really damaging. On top of this, I see a lot of female photographers using Instagram in toxic ways to gain success, which is a shame. We should be judging female photographers on the quality of their work, not viewing them as celebrities and judging them on their make-up, their cup size, or the people they hang around with. Other important issues are equal pay and job security, which is often overlooked, especially here in Italy. There are also far too many photography courses that lead young people into an oversaturated market.
F: What do you aim to convey with your photos?
LG: I find it difficult to answer this question because I’m better at expressing myself visually rather than verbally or in writing. Generally speaking, it’s about finding something that I find interesting or compelling
“ Nowadays it’s probably easier to become a photographer, but it’s definitely harder to stand out from the crowd.”
and trying to render it in the most aesthetically pleasing way possible. Sometimes it’s really elusive, other times there’s already a basic idea for the photos. I’m not interested in overtly sexualizing women; I prefer depicting them as enigmatic, complex dreamers.
F: In an industry that’s often criticized for presenting unrealistic body standards, how do you ensure that your photography celebrates diversity and inclusivity, particularly with regard to body shape, ethnic background, and gender identity?
LG: The freedom that we have today is a wonderful thing. The positive way in which tastes regarding what is published and what audiences want to see have evolved over the years is immense. It’s one of the biggest cultural and societal shifts that I’ve ever experienced. But I don’t think that my photography overtly celebrates these concepts. For other female photographers they are the fundamental themes behind their work, for me not so much.
F: Do you think that women or the “female gaze” — the equivalent of the ever-present “male gaze” — automatically have a different, more inclusive perspective? Or is that something that even you had to learn first?
LG: As I’ve already mentioned, a large part of my work comes from within. This is why I’ve never positioned my work in any particular way. Having said that, I do, for example, photograph a lot of red-haired models because, in my opinion, they fit best with my aesthetic, even though I have dark brown hair. It’s important to understand how and why you’re portraying certain aspects of womanhood. I hope that over time we can stop arguing so much about femininity, beauty, and the grotesque and start learning to just see the person.
F: Fashion photography is always being accused of objectifying women. Do you think it’s even possible to not reproduce stereotypes in the fashion industry?
LG: I suspect that imagery and society are now entering the post-stereotype era. But thoughts change a lot more quickly than society does.
F: How do you want the women in your pictures to be perceived?
LG: As true actors.
F: What has been your favourite photo shoot?
LG: Actually it was my very first shoot in an abandoned factory in Milan: A fashion editorial for Kult Magazine.
F: What has been your favorite collaboration with a brand or a model?
LG: Vogue Accessory is where I sort of made a name for myself.
F: Do you take inspiration from your cultural heritage as an Italian artist, and do you incorporate this into your photography?
LG: Yes, I love using quirky Italian locations for example.
F: Who is currently your greatest inspiration?
LG: My daughter!
No matter if video or photo camera: actresses Harriet Herbig-Matten and Andrea Guo know exactly how to present themselves as soon as the shutter is clicked. They dressed up for us in Longchamp‘s new fall/winter collection.
Photography: Marco Trunz
Talents: Harriet Herbig-Matten & Andrea Guo
Photography Assistance: Tim Löbbert
Styling: Izabela Macoch
Fashion: Longchamp AW24
Hair & Make-up: Patricia Heck
Production: Julia Gelau
Épure dumbbell bag made of cowhide in green and brown, Le Roseau M shopper in green,
Le Roseau S handbag in celadon, Le Roseau XS handbag in green,
Le Roseau bucket bag XS in orange, Épune XL shopper in green
Épure dumbbell bag made of cowhide in green and brown.
Shopper XS Cabas made of suede in bordeaux.
PEACE OF MIND SHELTER
Hidden among dense spruce trees, breathtaking views await.
The smell of spruce trees lingers in the palpable silence and transports you far away from the everyday: At Forestis, overlooking the South Tyrolean town of Brixen, relaxation is the number one priority. Owners Teresa and Stefan Hinteregger wanted to create an oasis that gives people the opportunity not only to gaze at nature, but to feel it too — not least thanks to the natural home cooking, which uses mainly ingredients from the local area. There’s even a World Heritage Site right on the doorstep: The historic main building is complemented by three tower suites with breathtaking panoramic views of the Dolomites.
Interview: Josefine Zürcher
Photos: Forestis
“ OUT WITH THE EVERYDAY, IN WITH A NEW WORLD FULL OF FIRST-TIME EXPERIENCES AND INSPIRATION. ”
FACES: How did you get into the hotel business?
Teresa Hinteregger: The diversity of careers linked to the hotel industry has always fascinated me. The opportunity to be able to work anywhere on earth was like a gateway to the rest of the world for me. I really learned to appreciate this during my work assignments in places like Hong Kong, London, and Switzerland. My experience of engaging with people from all over the world and immersing myself in other cultures proved particularly helpful when my husband Stefan and I began setting out plans for Forestis in our native South Tyrol in 2017.
F: How would you describe Forestis in one sentence?
TH: An incredible place where the beauty of nature leaves you speechless.
F: Which aspects are most important when planning a hotel?
TH: Whenever you want to do something new, of course you need to think about the financial side, but you also need to stay true to yourself. Many hoteliers only think about the guests during the planning phase. Stefan and I actually thought about ourselves when we were planning. We’ve both worked abroad and we obviously travel a lot. So when it came to Forestis, we were always considering what we would like best. The more you focus on guests during concept planning, the less authentic your plans become. Ultimately, the guests will pick up on this themselves. We see ourselves as hosts who invite visitors to stay in our home so that they can relax. And the guests only come because they are persuaded by our ideas, which reflect our lifestyle. That’s the rationale behind this approach. And it’s what any hotelier should consider when developing a new concept: Think inward and stay authentic. What am I like, how do I live, how do I feel? All these questions need to be incorporated into the concept to make it coherent.
F: Can you give us three reasons why we should definitely book a room at your hotel?
TH: The view from our suites — we are at eye level with one of the great spectacles of nature, the Dolomites: Formed from coral reefs that emerged from the sea
over the course of millions of years. There’s also the palpable silence here and the protection afforded by the forest. And last but not least, the excellent cooking of our head chef Roland Lamprecht, which he himself describes as “nature and forest cuisine.”
F: What makes the hotelier profession so exciting?
TH: For me, it’s exciting to see what our guests get out of their stay with us. How quickly they become one with nature here and simply enjoy it. And it really doesn’t matter which continent the guests come from — as soon as they arrive, they feel a deep sense of relaxation. When Stefan and I talk to guests in the evenings and they tell us about their experiences and impressions, then I know that we’ve done a lot of things right.
F: What do hoteliers have to think about that no-one else does?
TH: We’re hosts and that means we always have to think about everything relating to the wellbeing of our guests. This of course includes our employees too, as they serve as hosts alongside us. Hoteliers are the ones holding everything together.
F: What do you worry about a little too much?
TH: I want our guests to feel comfortable at all times. If they come to us more than once a year, they should always go home with the same feeling. To achieve this, we need lots of wonderful people to help us — our employees. We’re in a gorgeous, secluded location surrounded by nature. That’s a huge plus for guests, but it’s also the reason we need to take particular care of our employees. It’s not a quick drive home to their families from here. Many of them come from different regions and countries. This is why our employee accommodation is like a mini Forestis. We like to put on events for our employees. Training and education are just as important to us as having structured free time.
F: What are you like as a boss?
TH: That’s one to ask my employees! I’m a big believer in treating people with respect and trust. We’ve put together a good team. Of course Stefan and I are the ones mainly responsible, but we place a great deal of trust in our department heads and their teams. We
Bob Ross couldn’t have painted it any more beautifully.
Our balconies can’t compete with this. Suites
CRUISE SHIPS:
For me personally, there are too many people in one place, and we really need to think about how sustainable this form of travel is.
BUFFET FOOD:
Yes, for breakfast and if it’s the kind of buffet we offer at Forestis. Carefully selected local products in small portions, which are always served fresh as required, with
“ HOTELIERS ARE THE ONES HOLDING EVERYTHING TOGETHER. ”
homemade bread alongside hot dishes served à la carte.
TIPPING:
Goes without saying.
DOGS IN RESTAURANTS AND HOTELS: Dogs are family members these days, but I can understand when they’re not allowed in certain areas.
CHILDREN IN RESTAURANTS AND HOTELS: Only children aged 14 and over
are allowed at Forestis. There are so many options nowadays, everyone is sure to find the right hotel for them.
HOTEL ENTERTAINERS: We don’t have a need for them at Forestis; in fact, it would be counterproductive to our philosophy and the value of this place.
DRESS CODES: We don’t like to tell anyone what they can and can’t wear.
The conditions and the surroundings will tell you what’s suitable and what isn’t.
TRIPADVISOR:
Definitely helpful as a guide, but people should form their own opinions too.
ONLINE TRAVEL AGENCIES: We need to work out how we can work with them in the most effective way.
SHARING ECONOMY: There are some excellent
models out there.
SUSTAINABILITY:
A must, especially for us since we’re in a location that requires us to do things sustainably.
LABOR SHORTAGES:
The hotel industry is one of the most wonderful sectors. You can work all over the world, and you never stop learning. We need to make sure we make this profession attractive.
Teresa Hinteregger’s thoughts on...
The forest, nature’s therapy couch.
“ NO TWO ENCOUNTERS WITH A GUEST ARE THE SAME. ”
are also keen for each individual to be able to develop their strengths and character while working for us. This is the only way we can ensure that, in the end, we have the best employees and happy guests.
F: What makes a good hostess?
TH: Our guests are international, and, as hostess, I need to be able to cater to any guest’s needs quickly and individually. No two encounters with a guest are the same. I also like to surprise our guests, and to be able to do this, I need to be well-informed and have good listening skills.
F: What kind of guests are your favorite?
TH: Guests that are prepared to immerse themselves in Forestis and nature, and enjoy and appreciate the experience. That means a lot to us. Sometimes I come out onto our terrace on an early winter’s evening and see our guests wrapped up in blankets by an open fire, enjoying a drink or a glass of wine and gazing out at the mountain in silence as it is cast in the most romantic glow of the evening sun. In these moments, our guests see exactly what we see and hold so dear.
F: And which guests get on your nerves?
TH: There are only two things that I won’t accept: Guests who are disrespectful to our employees, and guests who don’t appreciate nature. But it’s quite rare for us to come across these types of people.
F: What is your aspiration for your hotel?
TH: We aim to bring our guests from all over the world closer to the beauty of this region, 365 days a year, and to make the hotel into a retreat where you can forget all about the world around you. This is another reason why we’re continuing to work on our spa concept; it’s based on the teachings of the Celts, who once settled here in Palmschoß. For me, it’s important for Forestis to reflect what makes this place what it is: Energy and peace.
F: How have your guests’ requirements changed over the years?
TH: I started to notice changes some years ago, and a lot of that has intensified over the past few years. Our guests are increasingly valuing the time they spend with their partners, with their friends and family, and
FORESTIS
The Dolomites is home to wonderful hiking trails. But if you’re in the mood for something more relaxing, a hidden paradise of tranquility stands ready to open its gates: The suites at Forestis provide views of the local World Heritage Site and lush forests. The roof terraces are the perfect spot to enjoy being close to nature, while the pools and spa area help you switch off completely. Teresa and Stefan Hinteregger opened this luxurious hideaway in 2020 and have been busy winning the hearts of guests from all across the globe ever since.
forestis.it/en
having a place where they can do just that with no disruptions. We’re also always creating experiences that leave lasting memories. For example, in our tower suites, you can spend a night under the starry sky. Our housekeeper Tiziana and her team convert the daybeds into a bed, complete with down pillows and quilt. I think everyone must have spent a night outside as a child and found it exciting and thrilling. Maybe it’s not so thrilling anymore, but it’s definitely a romantic, unique, and unforgettable experience.
F: Do you have a story from your day-to-day work as a hostess that you simply have to share?
TH: It was not long after we had opened. My husband Stefan was walking through the garden and we looked up at the suite terraces and noticed that on one of them there was a part from some furniture that didn’t belong there. At first Stefan thought it was our handymen in the suite, but then he realized it wasn’t. The guest staying in that particular tower suite found it too dark when he closed the curtains; he just wanted a little shade and spontaneously decided to co-opt parts of the furniture as a sun shield. We contacted the guest, put the furniture parts back together and put a parasol on the terrace for him instead.
F: What do you look out for when you stay somewhere yourself?
TH: When my husband and I travel, we like to make sure we have privacy and that we can unwind and recharge our batteries. Just like our guests: Out with the everyday, in with a new world full of first-time experiences and inspiration.
F: What distinguishes a good hotel from a great one?
TH: For me it’s the employees. When I get a sense of the passion they have for what they do, when they surprise the guests time and time again, put a smile on their faces and just make their day a little brighter, then they turn a good hotel into a great one.
F: Where do you rest your own head at night?
TH: We live in a chalet above Forestis, in one of four apartments with an amazing view of the Dolomites. So we’re far enough away to have our own privacy, but we’re still close enough to get to Forestis in no time.
VOYEUR PHOTO FINNISH
Fotos: Kasperi Kropsu
Left: 80s vibe in the 21st century.
Right: A yellow splash of color in the metro station.
Tristesse à la Helsinki, elegant shoes, confused perspectives: Welcome to the world of 31-yearold Finnish photographer Kasperi Kropsu. For almost ten years, he traveled the world as a sponsored skateboarder, until a twisted ankle put a brake on his plans. Instead of skating through the streets, Kropsu began to observe his homeland through the camera lens on long walks. In the spirit of the street photography greats of the 1950s, he documents our society and captures the beauty of everyday moments in both digital and analogue form.
A warm embrace inside, cold slush outside.
The road is steaming, the cyclist doesn’t seem to mind.
She has probably been to the most precise hairdresser in the world.
What could be more timeless than a red
pair of high heels?
The suit fits, the traffic light shows green, let’s go.
REAL LIFE
Whether in Helsinki or Paris, wherever Kasperi Kropsu strolls through the streets with his camera, he creates nostalgiasoaked photos that cannot be assigned to a specific time. In our interview, he explains why it’s easier to take photos in Paris, how he handles his love-hate relationship with Instagram and what he thinks of photographers who use AI.
Interview: Josefine Zürcher
FACES: What is your camera of choice?
Kasperi Kropsu: I use a Fujifilm XT-4 and an iPhone.
F: An iPhone! Does that mean that you care less about the equipment, and more about having a good eye for the image?
KK: Having a good eye is the most important part. And a sense of taste. Gear doesn’t matter to a certain extent. New gear can inspire you and get you to experiment, but it doesn’t take the photos for you. I love the quote by Henri Cartier-Bresson: “ It is an illusion that photos are made with the camera... they are made with the eye, heart and head.”
F: When did you first discover photography as an artform? What drew you to it?
KK: If we go way back, the earliest memories I have of photography as an artform is probably when I first started getting skateboarding magazines back in 2001 as a little kid. There was this small Finnish skate mag called Numero, but of course Thrasher and TransWorld from the US as well. Later in life I went to study audio visual communication mainly due to my interest in editing skate videos and I graduated in 2012. I tweaked my ankle really badly skateboarding back in 2018, so when I couldn’t skate, I decided to buy a digital camera for my downtime and that’s how I got into shooting stills.
F: You seem to mostly focus on street photography. How did you discover this genre of photography?
KK: After I got my first camera, my main focus was just to take photos of my friends and whatever was going on in life. Then suddenly I stumbled upon some old black and white works of Henri Cartier-Bresson on Instagram and it changed everything for me. It was this “ light bulb moment” and I thought to myself: “ Wow, I need to try this.” So I got out of my apartment, went for a walk with my camera and was hooked – immediately.
F: There are many street photography legends. Which other street photographers inspire you the most?
KK: When I first saw the works of Saul Leiter, there was a huge shift in how I started to view the world. Not long after that I discovered Ernst Haas, who has probably had the most influence on me. Those two are the main ones but there are so many of them: Vivian Maier, André Kertész, Joel Meyerowitz, Gordon Parks, Frank Horvat, Fred Herzog – the list goes on. Most of my heroes are long gone.
F: What does a perfect day of photography look like for you? Where are you, what essentials do you bring with you, and how long are you out for?
KK: There is rarely a perfect day of photography but the perfect setting is when you can just roam around freely with no schedule. Take a walk, have a cup of coffee, chat with a friend or a stranger... Create your own luck, as they say. I could be anywhere in the world and be happy doing just that.
F: Do you bring your camera with you wherever you go, or do you sometimes need a creative break?
KK: Yes, I always bring my camera with me, even to the grocery store nearby. I’m just too obsessed. I can’t go without it. The only breaks I take are when I don’t leave my apartment. When you leave your camera at home and you stumble upon the greatest moment you’ve ever witnessed and there’s no record – I don’t think I could forgive myself (laughs).
F: There has been discourse about whether or not street photography is unethical. What is your stance on this?
KK: I think it depends on your attitude towards it. If you go around thinking “ today I’m going to exploit a bunch of people to gain fame”, you’re doing it wrong. I’m not out there trying to harass anyone. If it’s just a simple act of personal viewing and experiencing life through a viewfinder I see nothing unethical about it. People are rarely the number one point in my images anyways. They’re more like a part of a bigger ensemble of color, shape and silhouette. I think photos of real situations and emotions are even more important now in these artificial times. It’s documenting our history – whether you like it or not.
F: Have you ever had any memorable experiences – positive or negative – with people you took photos of in the streets?
KK: I have mostly positive experiences. Barely anyone even notices if I took a photo of them. Only one time there was this guy who shouted something like “ you photographers are the scum of the earth” after I took a photo of him. He didn’t want an apology and that was it, he walked away. Life goes on!
F: What do you want to convey with your photos? What do you want the viewer to feel and experience when they look at your photos?
KK: Whiffs of simpler times that are long gone but still somehow present in some small particles around us today.
F: Do you think street photography is a solitary endeavor? Or would you ever collaborate with other photographers and go out to shoot together?
KASPERI KROPSU
Kasperi Kropsu grew up in Oulu in the north of Finland. He moved to the capital in 2015, where he still lives today. Before photography, his passion belonged to skateboarding, which he gave up due to an injury. Instead of admiring the photos in skate magazines, he grabbed the camera himself and began documenting everyday life in Helsinki.
kasperikropsu.com / @kasperikropsu
KK: The best photographs usually happen when you’re alone and focused. A friend can be a distraction and you can easily miss moments that are right in front of you. That being said, even a smartphone is a distraction nowadays. But I like to go out and have a cup of coffee or a meal and chat with other photographers.
F: You are located in Finland, but have taken quite a few photos in Paris as well. How was it different to shoot in Helsinki vs. Paris? And how does it differ from when you shoot in smaller towns in Finland?
KK: Helsinki today is greyscale. Storefronts and malls are contemporary and minimalist. Cars are colorless. Street corners are filled with electric scooters. If you look at some of the most successful Finnish brands whose whole image is being colorful and cheerful, now their image is trapped inside the store and not let out on the building’s facade. It’s not only Helsinki’s problem but more like the whole world’s. Good photographs are really rare. You have to exclude a lot more to make photos feel timeless. It
takes a certain type of patience to keep roaming around these streets day after day. But I still feel it’s important to document your home area. All the difficulty that’s in Helsinki, how hard it is to really take successful photos here comes to reality when you travel abroad. It’s unbelievable how much easier photography is in a city like Paris. I understand that the environment there is completely different than here in Finland but the inspiration when you actually travel to a place that has so many colors, shapes and people who dress the way you’d like to preserve in your photos – it’s something completely different. It was a huge relief to finally get to take the photos I’ve always been dreaming of. Photography in Helsinki feels sometimes impossible and it’s really frustrating. Helsinki used to be so, so beautiful back in the 80s for example. Most of the colors have been washed down, beautiful neon signs taken down so nothing can distract a person’s eye walking down the street. While I was in Paris, I saw how beautifully you can value your city’s history. I had never seen anything like it.
F: Other than Paris: What is your dream destination for street photography?
KK: Cuba! And New York, of course... but I’m always thinking of France. Paris is just so amazing. I’m always dreaming of going back.
F: Street photography has the power to document social change. Have you noticed any shifts or trends in Finnish society that you’ve documented through your work?
KK: Our society is boring to photograph now. We’re more isolated than ever. There’s rarely anything exciting happening on the street. People drown themselves in their phones, social media or video games and rarely get out of their apartments. There’s a war next door. You can just sense the tension. We are not at ease.
F: Do you find yourself drawn to particular neighborhoods or areas within Helsinki for your photography, and if so, what draws you to these locations?
KK: My home area, Kallio, mostly. We have this thing called “ Kaurismäki vibe” in Finland, describing different places or moods that are present in Aki Kaurismäki films, and Kallio has the most “ Kaurismäki vibe”. Sometimes I think I’m living in his movies while walking and hanging around here. Then there are areas like Töölö and Eira with beautiful old art nouveau architecture that I really love.
F: Do you ever want to venture out and try other styles of photography, for example fashion shoots?
KK: Fashion photography has been a dream of mine ever since I saw the fashion work of Saul Leiter, William Klein, Tony Vaccaro and Frank Horvat. I love how creative they got. They incorporated their street work and basically invented a whole new style of fashion photography.
F: Artificial intelligence is a huge topic, and it creeps into
“ I always bring my camera with me, even to the grocery store.”
art and photography as well. What do you think of it?
KK: It’s horrible and I can’t stand it. It’s the most unnatural thing ever: A computer stealing art from people and turning it into meaningless and soulless pictures. There is zero degree of humanity. I hope it’s just a trend and fades away quickly.
F: What do you think of photographers who use AI?
KK: They’re lazy and lack real talent. It’s in no way related to the world we live in. The further we step away from reality, the worse everything gets.
F: Is AI going to ruin creative fields or is there still some hope?
KK: There is always going to be a need for real human connection. A real human touch and feel that no computer can generate.
F: Similar to AI, social media is everywhere. What do you think of it?
KK: It’s not good for our mental health. When you only see other people’s highlights and continuously compare your life to others you forget to live for yourself. It makes me miss the times before it consumed everyone.
F: Is Instagram a good tool to grow as an artist or do you find it difficult to stand out and grow an audience? Does it ever feel draining to see so much content from other creatives?
KK: I probably wouldn’t have a career in photography without Instagram – who knows –, but it’s really difficult to stand out if your work is not really unique and exceptional. I actually don’t have Instagram on my phone anymore. I rarely use it now. It’s a mixed bag because I have to have it for my photography business but life is so much better without it.
F: What is your main source of inspiration?
KK: The 1950s to 1990s. Any photographs and/or films from that era.
F: If you ever feel uninspired, what do you do to get out of a creative block?
KK: I watch a lot of films. Browse photo books. I have a collection of both. Also just taking a walk helps 99% of the time.
F: Analogue or digital?
KK: I went fully digital at the end of last year but I’ll say digital for the convenience and analogue for the looks and feel. I love seeing the world through glass rather than a little screen.
F: Color or black-and-white?
KK: My eyes always see color first when I’m roaming the streets but black-and-white is exceptional for many moments where some colors are more of a distraction. It also works better with harsh light situations.
F: What goals do you have for your creative future?
KK: If I could be part of different projects where I can showcase my vision, travel, take photographs, make exhibitions and photo books for the rest of my life, that would be a dream.
STONED ANOTHER BRICK
IN THE WALL
Dusty streets, shady trees, and in the middle of it all, an almost inconspicuous building: Here, on the outskirts of Guanajuato in Mexico, stands House Enso II, a building designed by the architects at HW Studio whose walls whisper old stories and yet have new tales to tell, stone by stone.
Text: Marina Warth
Photos: Cesar Bejar
Previous Page: A house in the middle of the Mexican wilderness.
Left: Natural tones capture the vibe of the dusty deserted land in which Enso II is nestled.
Right: The house resembles a cross from above and a labyrinth at ground level.
“Architecture and magic have many things in common - such as extravagant gestures or the indispensability of creativity - but above all they are united by the art of creating the unprecedented.”
Wood,
“
A peek through the keyhole reveals the soul of this home, where everyday life and dreams merge like ice cream and cream topping.”
ENSO II
It is the architect’s challenge to link the old with the new without raising too many eyebrows. In the Mexican city of Guanajuato, architects from HW Studio tasked themselves with taking a piece of land and traditionally stacked walls, and creating a new home that would reinforce the local culture. The result: Enso II – a small house that brings traditional craftsmanship and materials to the fore, all within a budget of 300' 000 dollars. Not only were stones typical for this area used for the build, but local workers were also deployed to help make HW Studio’s vision a reality. To great success, too: The architects behind Enso II picked up the Award of Merit at the 2023 AZ Awards.
Enso II, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Mexiko, 195.80 squaremeters, concept: HW Studio, hw-studio.com
Left: Minimalism serves this home particularly well.
Right: Almost inconspicuous, House Enso II is surrounded by a rugged landscape.
WTF 82
Real fur for fashion? Hair-raising stuff. And it’s not just us who feel this way. A YouGov survey in twelve countries revealed that 82% of respondents are concerned about the use of animal fur in the clothing industry. Almost half stated their preference for companies that avoid using fur. It’s no surprise then that, according to the animal protection organization Four Paws’ Brand Compass, four out of five fashion labels have now banned the material from their collections.
So does that mean we can put our paws up and relax? Not quite. Down and wool are also often harvested under cruel conditions. In particular, the practice of lamb mutilation, known as mulesing, is widespread in places like Australia. We don’t want to ruin your day, so we’ll spare you the gory details. And we’ll even end with some good news: More and more brands are now turning their backs on mulesing and embracing man-made alternatives instead.
