fa s h i o n fitness â„–5 Đźay 2013
Moscow grows fashion week
igor
boom
gulyaev Fantastic styles of fur
Aurora rocks
st. petersburg fashion week
danish fitness show 2013 results and more
top russian brands
this edition is also available in russian language
Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 13
FASHION 06 Moscow Fashion Week Report Cover Igor Gulyaev Aurora Fashion Week Russia
12 Slava Zaitsev Moscow Fashion Week 16 Bessarion Moscow Fashion Week 20 Alena Akhmadullina Moscow Fashion Week 26 Igor Gulyaev Saint Petersburg Fashion Week 38 St. Petersburg VIP High Society Reportage
FITNESS 40 Danish Fitness Show 2013
Copenhagen, Denmark
44 Powerlifting
By Herman Mohr Hermansen
48 Meghan Amelia
4 - Fashion & Fitness Magazine
WBFF PRO interview
From the editor Publisher
Peter Hjorth
Dear friends, This month have been busy with both Moscow and Saint Petersburg Fashion Weeks, and we have had our reporters at the shows to give you exclusive reports from the action. The events continue to grow every season, and soon you will be able to buy good front row seats, even though you are not journalist or fashion buyer. The Fashion Weeks have become entertainment also, and any city with respect for itself will have to make some kind of fashion days to promote their city. The good news is that the new designers will get better opportunities to promote their collections, thus more talents will emerge on the scene. We will all end up looking stunning! Peter Hjorth peterhjorth@1stfashiongroup.com
Publisher Peter Hjorth Copenhagen, Denmark Fitness Editor in Chief Youssef Badran Soenderborg, Denmark Fashion Editor in Chief Katya Zaytseva Moscow, Russia Fashion Editors Anastasia Starinskaya Saint Petersburg, Russia Katarina Marjanovic Stockholm, Sweden Fashion Marketing Vaiga Rimsaite Natalya Shandyba Contributors Herman Mohr Hermansen
Katya Zaytseva
Fashion Editor in Chief
The biggest Fashion Week of Eastern Europe - Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia autumn-winter 20132014 took place in Moscow, in the central exhibition hall “Manege”. This year Fashion Week established an attendance record: the quantity of show visitors in Moscow exceeded 46000 persons. During 5 show days there were 42 shows and 11 presentations, altogether more than 2000 looks were demonstrated on two catwalks in the “Manege”. The best Russian designers, such as Slava Zaitsev, Tatyana Parfyonova, Dasha Gauser, Elena Souproun, TEGIN, 6 - Fashion & Fitness Magazine
BORODULIN’S, Yulia Nicolaeva, Alena Akhmadullina, BESSARION, RUBAN, Olga Brovkina, LEONID ALEXEEV, ENTELEY and others performed their collections. At Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week not only leaders of Russian fashion industry but also talented young designers - Maria Golubeva, RIA KEBURIA, Maroussia Zaitseva, GOGA NIKABADZE, Marina Maris showed their works. For the first time on the catwalk Britain fashion stars – designers of Russian origin such as Vilshenko, Marina Makaron, FYODOR GOLAN, Timur Kim presented their collections. “A mission of Fashion Week – to support and develop Russian designers became wider for recent years”, - says Alexander Shumsky, the president of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. – “Today our Fashion Week in Russia is the principal stage for designers of
Russian origin. Among the graduating students of occidental fashion schools there are a lot of Russian speakers, who develop their business in London, New-York or Paris. Some of them have already made their first shows on the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia catwalks. This year Fashion Week will extend the support programme, we’d like the best Russian designers appear in Moscow”. Between shows fashionfilms, prepared together with New York Fashion Film Festival, were demonstrated – the guests of MercedesBenz Fashion Week could see inspired by Fashion works of Roman Polanski, Stiven Meisel, Quentin Jones and Ryan McGinley. “The projects, connected with films about Fashion have become a part of the Fashion Week programme for the first time. Today world brands and directors pay more
attention to fashion videos and this interest of one field to another one is growing” – says Shumsky. Collections of accessories and jewelry brands were also demonstrated there. Within the bounds of Fashion Week business programme an international conference for professionals “Luxury Brands Internet Promotion Strategies” was organized. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week takes place in Moscow from 2001. Designers perform their collections twice in a year – in spring and in autumn. Till 2011 this Fashion Week had a name Russian Fashion Week. Now one can say with certainty that for 13 years of its existence MercedesBenz Fashion Week Russia took up a deserved place in the world fashion industry equally with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin and MercedesBenz Fashion Week New York. Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 7
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redken 1st fashion group salon kronprinsensgade 12 1114 København K
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Moscow Fashion Week ©
SLAVA ZAITSEV
moscow fashion week AW13
Katya Zaytseva
Fashion Editor in Chief
M
Fashion house SLAVA ZAITSEV opened with its show autumn-winter 20132014 one of the important fashion events in Russia - MercedesBenz Fashion Week. “Nostalgia 2” – that was the name of the collection which became a peculiar retrospection of designer’s creative work: perfectly new looks, created for the show, reproduced style and spirit of the last collections. In honour of designer’s anniversary the show lasted very long - about an hour. It was practically a record in the MercedesBenz Fashion Week Russia history. Slava Zaitsev gave the public a chance to make an excursus to the last century costume history. This collection consisted of some parts: woolen costumes and topcoats, popular in the 1990th; clothes in style of the 50th; floor-length dresses; puffy skirts and trimmed with fir jackets from the 20th; multilayer quilted complete sets of Indian shawls in folk style and “Bolshoi Theatre” collection. The line of slim and bell bottom coats with contrasting buttonholes and original big buttons is symbolic for this collection. Feminine costumes in men’s style is one of Slava Zaitsev’s favourite motives, knitted wear with coats, bolero-jackets, trousers and dresses develop the classical theme. The cocktail line was presented
with original little dresses of emerald and ultramarine tints and with silk and woolen dresses, which were made with imitation method. Romantic dresses in new look style of black and white polkadot fabrics became a pleasant surprise for the audience. The “Bolshoi theatre” theme consisted of satin corset dresses, jacquard dresses with complicated embroidery and feminine silk clothes. Almost every look of “Nostalgia 2” was supplemented with felt headwear of striking forms, dainty hats of straw and plumes and with effective flower compositions. Men’s line, which the designer himself called “very expressive”, was presented with three-piece suits, casual short coats of different silhouettes, jackets and trousers made of traditional fabrics. Quilted kits of shining fabrics can be called a bolder variant. Black frockcoats with satin decoration, which were popular in the 1930th, went through creative rethinking and was brought in new appearance. In the closing part of SLAVA ZAISEV show the guests saw long slim dresses with crimson, blue and goldish trains. After the final circuit the guests could see an unusual wedding dress with a corset in the form of explosive bud. Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 13
Design: Slata Zaitsev
Moscow Fashion Week Š
Moscow Fashion Week ©
bessarion
Moscow fashion week aw13
Katya Zaytseva
Fashion Editor in Chief
A
One of the most successful Russian designers BEssARION performed his new collection at the Moscow Fashion Week. Distinctive features of BEssARION brand were realized in the autumn-winter 2013-2014 collection – original and perfect cut, graphically built silhouettes, refinement and harmonious texture blending. The main colours of this collection – bright-red, intense green, electric blue went with basic ones – black, cold beige and grey. Some models were made in metallic colour and it gave futuristic features to looks. The main materials of the collection were leather, metallic and dense mat fabrics and also fur which decorated models’ shoes and served as a decoration element of coats and parkas. The last travel to Paris, according to designer’s opinion, became the main inspiration for his autumn-winter 2013-2014 collection. BEssARION tried to reproduce the look of stylish and unapproachable Parisian woman with the help of his new collection things. Architectural element of the French capital found their reflection in print ornaments, which decorated grey and beige tops and sweatshirts. Russian theme was
presented with wide bell-shaped skirts and bright-red quilted jackets. The designer didn’t forget about his Georgian origin and decorated many things with Georgian phrases that helped him to broaden the geography of his work. Elegant letters of the orient alphabet harmonically fitted in with the austere and monochrome collection. Laconic looks were supplemented with leather necklaces, reminding Celtic ornaments, black kerchiefs, which covered models’ heads, dark round glasses, unusual long gloves, jackboots and fur shoes. In models’ make-up an accent was on lips – they were of intense wine colour. This time the designer paid a special attention to dresses and skirts of actual and practical for the cold time midi size. The sport line of the collection was presented with quilted, non-central sweatshirts of metallic materials. The complete sets with floor-length shirts, quilted kerchiefs and fur shoes turned out original and interesting godsends. BEssARION autumn-winter 20132014 collection can be easy called a hymn for minimalism – austere silhouettes, monochromic looks, pure colours, minimalistic decorations, accurate lines and plain fabrics – that were its main peculiarities. Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 17
Design: Bessarion
Moscow Fashion Week Š
Moscow Fashion Week ©
alena akhmadullina Katya Zaytseva
Fashion Editor in Chief
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Within the bounds of Mercedes Fashion Week Russia the main “story teller” of Russian fashion Alena Akhmadullina performed her new collection fall-winter 20132014. If her previous collections dealed with Russian and European tales, this time the designer turned to Northern peoples legends. Alena Akhmadullina took northern legend “Three Furs” as a principle for her collection. This story told us about a fox and her three furs – white, red and black. Lelu-fox in her yearning for beauty asked the chief of the fox tribe to change her white fur to red and this one in its turn – to silver-black. However it didn’t bring happiness to her. In the end of this story the fox was very glad to put her white fur on again. The main idea of this northern tale is the next – everybody is beautiful in his own appearance and there is nothing better of natural beauty. This message goes through the whole collection. The collection attracts attention with a plenty of furs and dense fabrics, with bright colours, original prints and unusual materials, colours and textures combinations. Conventionally this collection consists of three parts. The first part can be called “The Russian North” – texture smoothness, sharp colour combinations, which like refracted sunlight, play on the ice–cold lilac, blue, fuchsia and red
tints. The second part symbolizes no longer the nature of the North but the clothes of a girl, who has got into these conditions – clothes becomes cosier, warmer, of soft textures, for example wool and bouclé, which has another appearance in this collection. The range of colours is quiet – brown, khaki, wine, deep-green. The third part of the collection performs an evening line with unexpected texture combinations, flowing fabrics, bright colours and different prints. Designer’s prints of the fall-winter collection deserve special attention – little foxes, northern berries, coniferous branches, snowflakes, husky, the Moon – what isn’t represented on dresses and blouses! Fur clothes of this collection are created in original method of different length, colour and texture combinations and it’s already become a tradition of Alena Akhmadullina fashion house. Combinations of different kinds of fur and fabrics – broadtail and squirrel, stockinet and silk – increased model contrast and geometry. The details of this collection turned out admirable – chameleon shoes, fur bags, massive adornments, fur and knitted caps - surely won’t leave fashion fans indifferent. Accessories of Alena Akhmadullina for Mercedes-Benz collection became catwalks looks addition – the designer made them specially for the Russian Fashion Week opening. Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 21
Design: Alena Akhmadullina
Moscow Fashion Week Š
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Photo: Aleksandr Popov / Aleksandra Pochobut
Saint Petersburg Aurora Fashion Week Š
igor gulyaev
saint petersburg aurora fashion week AW13
Anastasia Starinskaya Fashion Editor, Russia
P
Russian fashion designer Igor Gulyaev joins the ranks of Russian iconic products with his use of high quality materials and fine elegance. He is the lead fur design in Russia and has a unique provocative fashion message to the cold and snowy Russian winter days and nights. Igor Gulyaev’s first fur boutiques “Obsession”were opened in Saint Petersburg in 2003 and offered to sophisticated customers different fur collections of the most important international brands. Very soon the company became the most important one in Saint Petersburg. In 2009 he officially started the IGOR GULYAEV fashion design brand. The collections have been shown, too much acclaim, in Europe, USA as well as Russia. The brand has attracted followers and admires including Lara Fabian, Sharon Stone, Ornella Muti, Monserat Caballe, and many Russian celebrities. Igor Gulyaev’s presented his FW13-14 collection during Aurora Fashion Week Russia in April 2013. This year AFW took place in the St. Petersburg Academy of Arts. The building’s stunning classical interiors and historical heritage gave a marvelous backdrop to the show. Igor Gulyaev brilliantly used images of the Trevi Fountain to background his collection. The collection lent towards Italian sophistication and chic but with flirty undertone. Smiling models were walking the runway in fabulous fur coats,
coats with fur collars and long wool dresses decorated with lace embroideries. The furs shown included mink, chinchilla, Persian lamb, llama and silver fox. The fur is skillfully combined with wool and lace giving a true alchemist combination of sensual textures. They are beautiful creations to wear and yet are also exciting to look at and to touch. The fur variety and its processing techniques allowed this classical material to change its conservative look. The aesthetic color itinerary runs from natural fur pallet with grey, brown, beige, black and white images to different shades of green, red, purple and emerald. The accessories enhanced the remarkably sensuality of fur creations. Contrast colors of the long leather gloves, clutches and bags, long belts, plain or polka-dot silk scarfs and fur berets amplified the ravishing look. Fall-Winter 2013/14 collection is designed for a wide range of woman fashion preferences, from luxury classical to modern elegance or extravagance look. Igor Gulyaev design remains timeless, that continues to spark luxury and chic. Like a real Russian woman, the collection is intrigue, feminine, provocative and mysterious. Natural furs help to make the collection an excellent ambassador of fashion and maps the success of the Russian brand worldwide. Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 27
Design: Igor Gulyaev
Saint Petersburg Aurora Fashion Week Š
Photo: Aleksandr Popov / Aleksandra Pochobut
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High Society St. Petersburg, Russia
Mikhail Bazhenov (AFWR)
Igor Gulyaev
Artem Balayev (AFWR)
Ed Kavishe (Fashion Wire Press)
Natalya Shandyba
Maria Ter-Margaryan (Pitti Uomo)
Peter Hjorth (1st Fashion Group) www.1stfashiongroup.com
Anna Belotserkovets (Ginza Project)
Natasha Slater (Dolce & Gabbana) http://natashaslater.com/
Nikita Kondrushenko
Danish Fitness Show 2013 WBFF in Copenhagen, Denmark Results: Diva Bikini Model - Short 1st Sian Toal; United Kingdom (Pro) 2nd Ellie Benedetti, United Kingdom 3rd Louise Le, Denmark 4th Louise Glover, United Kingdom 5th Elisabeth Lund, Denmark Diva Bikini Model - Tall 1st Juliana Conci-Mitchell, UK (Pro) 2nd Nanna Isabella, Denmark 3rd Line Vanggaard, Denmark 4th Trine Bjørg, Denmark 5th Amanda Branco, United Kingdom
Male Fitness Model 1st Sascha Mühlen, Germany (Pro) 2nd Eduardo Formigheri, Brazil (Pro) 3rd Tirrel Grant, United Kingdom 4th Gabriel Sey, United Kingdom 5th Mattheus Wattimury, Netherlands Male Muscle Model 1st Femi Billyrose, United Kingdom (Pro) 2nd Gabriel Say, United Kingdom (Pro) 3rd Noel Smith, Ireland (Pro) 4th Nicolas Paul, United Kingdom 5th Gints Valdmanis, Letvia
Diva Fitness Model - Short 1st Mirella Clark, United Kingdom (Pro) 2nd Sian Toal, United Kingdom 3rd Louise Glover, United Kingdom 4th Dorthe Sardorg, Denmark 5th Angelica Orozco Diva Fitness Model - Tall 1st Nyisha Jordan, United Kingdom (Pro) 2nd Claire Harper, United Kingdom (Pro) 3rd Susie Woffenden, United Kingdom 4th Amanda Branco, United Kingdom 5th Linn Hansen, Norway Figure - Open 1st Karen Gunning; Dubai 2nd Sigurbjörg Arndal, Iceland 3rd Magdalena Ksepko, Iceland Bodybuilding - Open 1st David Lukonge; Tanzania (Pro) 2nd Jay Benedetti, United Kingdom 3rd Mustafa Ali Mohammed, Denmark 4th Mustafa Hamza, Denmark www.wbff.dk
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Powerlifting Herman Mohr Hermansen
Owner TarGet PowerGym My name is Herman and I am 36 years old. I am originally from the Faroe Islands but live in Copenhagen Denmark, where I have my own Gym, TarGet PowerGym. I work as a personal trainer helping people achieve their goals in losing weight, getting stronger and also to improve their sports performance. I also help fitness athletes train in order to compete on stage. 44 - Fashion & Fitness Magazine
In my younger days I played football and I was a competitive rower for 12 years. In the last 12 years I have solely been strength training in order to be a better strongman-athlete and powerlifter. I am still an active competitor in both strongman and powerlifting. What is powerlifting Powerlifting is a combination of three disciplines: the squat, bench press and deadlift. These are all great compound exercises – the big 3. When you squat you place a barbell on your neck/back shoulder as you stand and you squat down deep and get up again. The squat primarily works your
quads, your glutes, and your hamstrings. In bench press you lie on your back on a bench with both feet on the ground. You hold the barbell in both hands with straight arms. You lower the bar onto your chest and push it up again. The bench press primarily targets your chest, you triceps, and your front shoulders. When deadlifting you take a barbell from the ground and lift until you stand upright with the bar at around hip height. The lift is completed when you have lowered the bar onto the ground again. Deadlift primarily activates your back extensors, your glutes, your hamstrings, your quads, and your lats. In addition to the above, especially the squat and the deadlift strengthen your core. Personal training and the 3 big ones As a personal trainer I build most of my programmes around the three big ones – and variations of these. Together these three exercises manage to target more or less all the muscles in the body. In order for the back to get a more concentrical/ exentrical work-out, I normally add various pull-ups and different types of rows. Variation of the three big ones could for instance be: Front squats, incline dumbbell press, and rack-pulls. There are many different “cousins” to the big 3. But powerlifters are fat On the Internet you often see very strong powerlifters who also tend to be overweight, if not directly obese. In the heavier classes many competitors have
got a higher fat percentage. However, there are lighter classes too, and in these lighter classes you are most likely to see strong and more athletic looking competitors. The fact is that neither the choice of exercises nor the amount of reps/sets that determine the size of your waist line. It is a question of how many calories you consume. In other words, if you eat healthily and fewer calories than your body burns, you will lose weight. If you simultaneously have a cleverly constructed strengthtraining programme, your body has no option but to shred the fat and maintain or maybe even build muscles. Start powerlifting It cannot be stressed out enough: Random input will give you random output! It is not enough to have, for instance a leg day for a week where you randomly shuffle through randomly chosen sets, rep ranges, and exercises. The key to success is to be organised and structured. Set a goal and go for it! You need a well thought-through programme to take you from A to B. Your aim should always be to get stronger with time. In conclusion: If you eat good and varied food within the calories your body burns and if you manage to get stronger in the big 3 and the pull-ups/rows, you will build muscle, burn fat and get that lean, strong athletic body you have always dreamed of. The body all your friends would die for. Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 45
Meghan Amelia F&F: So Meghan, tell us a bit about your background! My name is Meghan Amelia, I am a Canadian born fitness model, personal trainer and professional fitness competitor. As a personal trainer and coach I feel I bring a refreshingly sensible and natural approach to health and fitness. My common sense and personalized programs help other individuals accomplish their health and fitness goals. After winning the WBFF BC Championships in 2011 and earning my professional status, I have been fortunate enough to appear in numerous fitness advertise-
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ments, magazines, and most recently appeared on the cover of Women’s Health magazine in Australia. My fitness philosophy is on clean eating and functional physical exercise; through working out, I try and teach people how they can improve their overall fitness levels, tighten and tone weak areas and simple ways they can use health and fitness to improve their daily lifestyle. I strive to make people more comfortable with fitness and to better understand its lifelong benefits. I take the same sense when it comes to modeling. I practice what I preach and keep fit year round. This
allows me to always be photoshoot ready and opens up more opportunities in the modeling world. I feel very lucky to say that I wake up everyday doing what I love! F&F: What got you into competing on stage and Fitness Modelling? I started competing really young riding horses in rodeos and horse shows. When my parents moved away up north from the farm that I grew up on in Langley, I needed to go out on my own and try new things. I got into modeling with Hawaiian Tropic contests, where I guess I could say I got “discovered”. I competed for a few years all over Canada with Hawaiian Tropics, it was a great opportunity and great exposure. While competing in Calgary I was approached by the Coors Light Brewing Company and I was hired as the Coors Light Spokesmodel for western Canada. So I moved my butt outta the country to the big city of Vancouver, where it all changed. I wanted to take my career to the next level and knew I needed to be in the best shape possible to make it as model. I did an online search for personal trainers in Vancouver; WBFF Pro Svetlana Romanova popped up and I hired her immediately. She suggested I try a fitness competition, which just happened to be The 2011 WBFF BC Championships. Six weeks after starting to train with Sveta, I stepped on stage and haven’t looked back
since. I have found my new love and replacement for competitive horseback riding. I’ve never played team sports, that’s not for me. But I love fitness competitions, because, really, it’s about competing against yourself. F&F: What made you choose WBFF? I chose to compete with The WBFF under Svetlana’s suggestion and I’m so happy I did. The WBFF is different from other fitness competitions. Its about showing your personality and having fun on stage; really putting on a show. Competing is a hobby and should be fun, The WBFF makes competing fun! Everyone is supportive and treat you like family. I was welcomed with open arms at my 1st show and I have nothing but positive experiences since. I would recommend competing with The WBFF to anyone and everyone. F&F: Tell us a bit about your training… I train hard and eat clean. I train 5-6 days a week weights, and depending on the time of year, 4-6 days a week cardio. I mix up tradition body building style with HIIT, plyos, boxing, gravity training etc. Im always challenging my body, I love to lift super heavy then do 100 jump squats! F&F: Favourite body part to train? My favourite body part to train is legs/ Fashion & Fitness Magazine - 49
(continued>) Yes the exclamation points are necessary. I have worked my butt off, literally, over the last 2 years, to completely transform it. Ive always had a big booty, and it is now finally round & up where it should be. My lower half is always the last thing to tighten up when prepping for a show or shoot. I specifically train legs/glutes 2x week, mixing heavy sets with lighter high reps, plyos, a million squats & lunges etc. Its still a work in progress, but I am very proud of my progress so far. You ask if I squat? Hell yes I squat. F&F: When’s your next show/contest and what is your expectations? My next show is the Montreal Pro Am April 27th. I am so excited for the show, its only 5 weeks away now and Im counting down the days. I think this will be an amazing show. Im expecting a tough line up of girls and fierce competition, but all in good fun of course! My goal is just to be better than I was at my last show. That’s all I can ask for, is to improve everytime I step on stage. F&F: What’s your contest diet and supplementation like? My diet is a very balanced and sensible nutrition plan full of whole unprocessed foods, nothing extreme, just good old fashioned clean eating. Each show, my coach and I try something different, just to see how my body will react, for example, lower carb, higher fat, or vice versa. I eat about 5 meals a day, every 3 50 - Fashion & Fitness Magazine
hours or so, and about 6 litres of water a day, I love water! For supplementation I stick to BCAAs, Glutamine and Protein powder. As well as a variety of vitamins including Omegas, Vit C and D, Multi, Magnesium etc. F&F: How do you stay motivated through that five months contest prep? I stay motivated through all the show prep by keeping my plan about the same year round so I never have to make any drastic changes. I work year round as a personal trainer and fitness model so I always need to be in tip top shape! To keep me going on days when I just wanna sleep all day, I look through photos of other fitness models for inspiration, then get my butt to the gym! F&F: Thanks for chatting with us and good luck with it all! If people want to find out more about you, and your training journey, where can they go? Thank you! Please check out my website www.meghanameliafitness.com Follow me on Instagram & Twitter @ meghanamelia And like my fb page facebook.com/ meghanamelia If you are interested in personal training, posing coaching or model bookings please email meghan@meghanameliafitness.com