Andrisen Morton

SPRING & SUMMER 2016

Q&A WITH

SPECIAL GOLF SECTION WITH

BRANDT SNEDEKER & DAVID FEHERTY

JOSH KROENKE & JOE SAKIC PREVIEW OUR

SPRING LINEUP

CONTENTS

Andrisen Morton 270 St. Paul Street Denver, Colorado 80206 303-377-8488

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNER

Jean-Nicole Venditti DESIGNER

Chad Morgan CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Bruce Abels CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

FEATURES 12 14 16 86

Getting to Know Josh Kroenke Joe Sakic: Just a Regular Joe A Conversation with Larry Mueller Resorts: The Avalon Palm Springs

FASHION 22 26 48 55 60 90

Profile: Samuelsohn On Location Profile: Boglioli Dressing for a Good Time Upgrade Now! Style: Normal to the Core

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

DEPARTMENTS 6 8 10 18 50 82 84 88 92

Welcome Letter Ask Craig & Lindsay Dave: As I See It The Fashion Forum Designers: Work It Travel: Brijuni Wheels: A Horse With No Mane At Your Service End Page: Loose Threads

SPECIAL SECTION: GOLF 66 68 72 76 80

Resorts: Sea Island Dreaming Players: Brandt Snedeker Interview: David Feherty History: Style Evolution Tech: Greens Machines

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2016. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 19, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

LORO PIANA “EXTREME” PERFORMANCE FABRIC

WELCOME SPRING “We must always look ahead. To the next season. To the latest industry trends.

To new styles, up-and-coming brands and products. But always with you in mind.”

It was a momentous 2015 and the results are immediately evident when you step into our modern new shopping environment.

But the past is just that. We must always look ahead. To the next season. To the latest industry trends. To new styles, upand-coming brands and products. But always with you in mind.

We scoured the New York City markets and traveled across Europe to uncover what’s next, and we’ve curated a new spring/summer collection we believe you’ll absolutely love.

So get ready to roll up your sleeves, leave the socks in the dresser and enjoy another amazing sun-filled, fun-drenched Colorado summer. Your every wardrobe need is here, along with the people and perfect service to help you along your way.

Join us in welcoming the new season. And as always, we look forward to seeing you.

Yours in friendship and gratitude,

Craig and Dave

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CRAIG & LINDSAY ASK

SPRING 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

When is, and isn’t it, appropriate to wear sneakers?

Except for formal occasions and business meetings with conservative clients, it’s almost always okay to wear sneakers, especially contemporary leather or suede styles that look nothing like gym shoes.

Modern sneakers might have contrast soles or colorful laces; they can cost as much as leather shoes and serve as a sort of hybrid between work and play. They’re certainly comfortable, and add a touch of personality to pants and a sportcoat.

That said, while some guys can pull it off, wearing sneakers with a suit takes a certain panache. If you’ve got it, go for it! But if you’re at all uncertain, stick to the updated leather shoes currently on our selling floor. Modern footwear will elevate your entire wardrobe.

I see a lot of my favorite suit brands offering made-to-measure suits and sportcoats. Is it worth the extra time and money?

Yes! You get to pick the fabrics, the model and the details (linings, buttons, monograms), and the fit is sure to flatter.

Depending on the maker, delivery is usually within four to six weeks of getting measured, and we guarantee that this will become your go-to favorite suit!

Our suggestion: select a pattern (subtle

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or bold) rather than a solid, or perhaps a seasonal fabric. If you’re going for special, why not make it really special?

I plan on taking several long weekends this summer. Any packing tips for a carry-on bag?

Light and casual are the buzzwords for weekends away. For travel, wear the pieces that take up the most room: long pants (lightweight five-pocket styles are perfect for most occasions), a long-sleeve woven shirt in cotton or linen and either a soft sportcoat or cardigan, depending on your weekend agenda. Then throw the rest into your carry-on—a short-sleeve woven shirt, two short-sleeve polos, two T-shirts, shorts, a swimsuit, underwear—and you’re good to go. If there’s room in your bag for sandals and grooming products, toss them in too. If not, hotels (and considerate hosts) can generally supply shampoo, moisturizer and flip-flops.

If you’re a guest in someone’s home, don’t forget to bring a bottle of good wine. (But never pack sparkling wine in your checked bag, as it’s likely to explode. We know from experience!)

If you’re struggling to zip your overstuffed carry-on, you need a new travel bag! Come in and let us show you our favorite designs.

Spring fever.

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AS I SEE IT DAVE MORTON ON THE IMPORTANCE OF DRESSING WELL.

“A man should look as if he had bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care, and then forgotten all about them.”

I love this quote by the iconic British menswear designer Hardy Amies.

It not only sums up what a welldressed man should look like, but also speaks to a certain attitude that comes from dressing well.

A quote of my own is “better is better,” meaning it doesn’t matter whether your style is denim and a knit shirt or a finely tailored suit; quality matters.

Dressing well regardless of your stylistic point of view is more important than it’s ever been. The message it sends is you are paying attention to the details.

So why is dressing well so important?

First, it separates you from the guys who don’t care how they look. It speaks volumes about one’s personal code. It doesn’t have to be fancy and expensive. No. But obviously, we’re in the business of selling higher-end clothing, and we do believe a quality piece provides more value over time.

In my experience, I’ve seen that successful people care more about how they present themselves, whether in the boardroom or the coffee shop. How you

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look can make a difference in getting a job, leading an organization, making the deal, and so on. Business and life are so super-competitive today. Why put yourself at a disadvantage, when clearly you can do something about it?

My personal view is that dressing well should never be overdone, but it clearly can be underdone. Dressing well doesn’t mean clothing that screams “look at me,” but clothing that presents you in a polished way.

It is a competitive advantage.

In fact, there are studies suggesting well-dressed men are perceived to be smarter, more successful, and more well liked—plus fare better in relationships.

So while there’s another saying that “clothes don’t make the man,” I’m not sure I fully agree. Presentation is hugely important. People judge us on how we look, the clothing we wear. Remember, you can only make a first impression once!

Dressing well means dressing to win. And why would anyone dress to come in second?

S S 16 . B E A N E W G E N T L E M A N .

JOSH KROENKE GETTING TO KNOW

Josh Kroenke is a busy guy. Since moving to Denver in 2007 to join Kroenke Sports & Entertainment, he’s become a highly regarded sports executive who’s kept a pretty low profile. Now 35, Kroenke is president of KSE’s Denver Nuggets and Colorado Avalanche, and alternate governor for the Colorado Rapids. We caught up with him at a corporate retreat somewhere in Texas. He’s easy to talk with, quick to laugh and very unassuming.

Your love of basketball is well known. What player did you idolize growing up?

I was a fan of all sports growing up. But Michael Jordan was obviously the one.

He had the whole thing: an individual player dominating a team sport, with a unique psychological competitive edge.

Who would you love to play a pick-up game with?

“Pistol” Pete Maravich. My dad showed me tapes of Pistol playing. He was known for his flair, but he had amazing fundamentals. Also John Havlicek.

managers, and eventually other guys in professional sports front offices. I picked their brains, asked a lot of questions and continue to do that even in my position today.

Tell us about your typical day.

There is no “typical” day, which is something I really enjoy. I travel a lot for business. But when in town, I get up, have coffee, hit the office with the dogs, work out at some point, do my job, and if it’s a game day, drop the dogs at home and head back to Pepsi Center for the game.

Who do you follow on Twitter?

You are one of the youngest owners/ presidents in both the NBA and NHL. Are there any challenges associated with that? Any advantages?

I understood what I didn’t know.

Fortunately, I’ve been exposed to some very smart people: first as an athlete, so coaches, players and

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I follow a lot of sports news accounts. In the sports business, if you’re reacting to something instead of staying ahead of it, that’s not a good thing. I see Twitter as a very efficient way to get news, stay in touch with fans and get your message out. I’m not on Twitter personally, but eventually, I’ll have to bite the bullet.

What item in your closet do you wear the most?

I’m definitely a guy that loves his blue jeans and will never lose that.

But it could be a suit and tie if I have meetings. In winter, I usually wear a nice sweater, shirt and jeans. And I like to add some fun with sneakers. So I’m usually conservative up top but wearing some cool, funky pair of sneakers. I gotta let my youth come out some way!

How did you meet Craig Andrisen?

I first met Craig playing golf. Turns out we had lots of mutual friends around town. But actually it was the former president of the Avalanche Pierre Lacroix who told me about the store. After seeing Craig play, I definitely won’t be asking for any tips on my golf swing, but his amazing sales and service staff always seem to be able to talk me into buying a lot more than I intend when I visit the store.

Who are your favorite recording artists?

I listen to everything from country to hip-hop. I know the words to Garth Brooks songs as well as Drake.

are struggling. I’m just as passionate as the average fan, probably more. When things aren’t going well, it consumes me and I lose a lot of sleep about how to get back to where we want to be.

What is the one thing people would be surprised to know about you?

I’m kind of a homebody when given the opportunity. My favorite nights out are at my house, where I can throw something on the barbeque and have some friends over for a couple glasses of wine.

You own two English bulldogs.

What attracted you to that breed?

I grew up with a black lab and always thought that’s what I’d get. My sister was the first to have an English bulldog—Hank—and we bonded. When I first moved to Denver, my townhome had no yard, so instead of a black lab, I got a bulldog puppy and that was it. His name is Fletcher. I now have a second one named Arnie. They come to work with me every day and have become KSE’s office mascots.

In addition to the Nuggets and Avalanche, KSE owns the NFL

Who are your role models?

Los Angeles Rams, Colorado’s

My parents and grandparents. My parents did an amazing job of raising me, teaching me the core values of life. Externally—as a basketball player—my coaches. Also, being around fellow players from some very tough backgrounds gave me perspective of how blessed I was in life from a very early age.

Mammoth and Rapids and the UK’s

What’s the best part of being president of the Nuggets and

Arsenal FC, as well as some venues.

What’s next for the company?

On a daily basis, all I focus on is the two teams I’m directly responsible for and how we can win championships.

That’s my goal. On a macro level, our company is constantly evolving. I sit on the board at Arsenal, and learning to think on a global scale with a truly global brand will be invaluable for myself and KSE in the long run.

Avalanche? What’s the worst part?

The best and worst is one in the same— passion. You want passionate people supporting your clubs, for sure. But passion cuts both ways. When the teams are doing well, it’s a lot easier to interact with fans than if the teams

What do you envision for your life and work 10 years from now?

I’m so consumed with the present, I haven’t really thought about that. I know my dad isn’t slowing down, that’s for sure. I’m trying to learn as much as I can

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from him not only in the sports world, but on the real estate side as well, which is a big part of who our family is too.

Right out of college I interned with the NBA league office in New York City and then worked for Lehman Brothers in their real estate finance department. My passion will always be sports, but I would love to get more involved on our real estate side somewhere down the road.

What do you do to relax?

Skiing and playing golf are the two things that really let my mind release from everything else. I’ve been skiing since about age two. I love being here in Colorado. If it’s a slow Tuesday, I enjoy sneaking up to Winter Park and getting some runs in. Summer, it’s the golf course.

What charitable work are you involved with and why?

I donate to my sister’s Playing For Change Foundation, which has built several music schools for underprivileged children around the world, and I’m as active as I can be with our Kroenke Sports Charities programs.

We help use our sports profile to raise funds for numerous organizations around Denver and the state of Colorado as a whole. We just recently had our KSE gala, where all four of our Denverbased teams have players and staff attend (Nuggets, Avalanche, Rapids, and Mammoth). It is hands-down my favorite charity event we do, as it not only raises money for a great cause, but it gives our fans a chance to interact with all of our players and coaches on a personal level. We have a wonderful community relations department, and we remind our teams that if we aren’t doing what’s right for the community, then we aren’t doing anything right at all.

Having Kroenke in Denver is not only great for the Nuggets, Avalanche and Rapids teams and fans; his energy, attitude and commitment are also huge assets for our community.

JOE SAKIC JUST A REGULAR JOE

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o fans he is and always will be Super Joe, Number 19, two-time Stanley Cup champion and firstballot National Hockey League Hall of Famer.

But to those closest to him, Sakic says, “I am who I am… just a regular guy. I try to be a good husband, father and friend. That’s what’s most important in life.”

Sakic found time to have a phone conversation with us from his office in the Pepsi Center, where he serves as executive vice president, general manager and alternate governor of the Colorado Avalanche. We talked about his love of golf, his team, and involvement in the community—even his favorite hockey movie.

Outside of his life-long love affair with hockey, Sakic is passionate about golf. He plays to about a one handicap and wishes he could play more. Golf is how Sakic met our very own Craig Andrisen, as they are both members at the same local private country club. “I like to relax, have fun and joke around when I play golf, and Craig’s the same way.

He’s a huge personality. Plus, it’s great gambling with a guy who thinks he’s better than he actually is. Craig’s definitely the guy you want to bet with out on the course.” Even over the phone, you could almost see the twinkle in his eye.

Golf is also the avenue that Sakic and his wife Debbie use to give back to the community, specifically

to support the mission of the Food Bank of the Rockies.

In 1997 they founded the Sakic Celebrity Classic Golf Tournament and the Joe and Debbie Sakic Bringing Hope to the Table Celebration. These two annual fundraising events have become the financial mainstay for FBR’s children’s programs and have provided millions of meals for hungry kids across the state. “Childhood hunger is a problem that’s not going away,” says Sakic, “and it’s a privilege to help out any way we can.”

Sakic had the opportunity to play Augusta National, home of The Masters, about 10 years ago, which had always been a dream of his. And if he could assemble his dream foursome, Sakic says he’d love to golf with “Phil Mickelson, Rory McIlroy and Jason Day. It’d be great to play a round with those guys and just watch them swing.”

Speaking of swinging, hitting a golf ball and a hockey puck are pretty similar strokes. “It’s not just arms; you have to swing with your whole body and create torque for both shots,” he explains. “The only difference is the hockey puck is moving.”

And by the way, his favorite hockey movie? Slapshot starring Paul Newman.

When Sakic was brought back as the Avs’ executive vice president in 2013, his first move was to name his friend and old teammate Patrick Roy as head coach/

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“ALL YOU CAN DO IS GET UP, GO BACK TO WORK, AND BE READY FOR WHAT’S COMING NEXT.” manager of hockey operations. “It’s been great working with Patrick,” says Sakic. “We both have the same goal—to bring another Stanley Cup championship to our city. We still have work to do, but we’ve got a good group of guys that care about winning.”

During the 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City, Sakic helped lead Team Canada to its first ice hockey gold medal in 50 years and was voted the tournament’s MVP. So what was more thrilling—winning the gold for his country or the Stanley Cup? “It doesn’t matter what level or what league…winning a championship, being on top, is what it’s all about. But as a kid, my dream was to play in the NHL and win a Stanley Cup. Winning that first Cup in 1996 was a pretty remarkable feeling. But to win the gold at the Winter Olympics, to know the whole country is watching and rooting for you, it’s something very special. And then to hear your national anthem. It’s tough to put into words.”

When asked where he sees himself in the next three to five years, Sakic laughs and says, “Hopefully still working. But in all seriousness, hopefully in three to five years we’ve won a Cup or are on the doorstep of winning another Cup. And certainly we want to be contending year in and year out.”

The best advice Sakic ever received was simply to stay on an even keel. “In sports—and life—you’re going to

win and lose. You’ll have great days and bad days. Either way, you can’t let yourself get too high or too low. The roller coaster will control you. All you can do is get up, go back to work and be ready for what’s coming next.”

Sakic does not seem to be the type of guy who’s enamored with celebrity, neither his nor any one else’s. His response to a commonly used interview question about who he’d want on a guest list for a dinner party speaks volumes: “I’d just want my family and close friends. That’s good enough for me.”

His personal style is casual. “I’m not a big tie guy. Even when I dress up, I want to be comfortable. Mostly I wear jeans and a nice shirt and in the summer, golf shorts and a shirt.”

Beyond his obvious love of golf, Sakic relaxes by staying in shape and spending time with his family.

But his oldest son attends a university in Florida, his 15-year-old son plays hockey in British Columbia and his 15-year-old daughter attends Cherry Creek High School, so he’s keeping pretty busy. He really looks forward to going on family vacations so they can all be together.

And Super Sakic still gets on the ice now and then. “Every once in a while, I skate three-onthree with the coaches. We’re a bunch of stiffs. We think we still got it, but we know we don’t.”

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LARRY MUELLER A CONVERSATION WITH

Larry Mueller, founder/CEO of Cuvée Ventures and its sister company Cuvée Escapes, knows a thing or two about success—first, how to achieve it and next, what to do with it afterwards.

He talked with us from one of Cuvée’s phenomenal estates in Los Cabos, where he was mixing business with pleasure (which he does as much as possible).

A legendary high-level IBM executive in the U.S. and Europe, then Silicon Valley CEO who took several software companies public— one of which, Ariba, had a market cap of over $40 billion within two years of its public offering—Mueller’s first taste of success came when he was a 12-year-old paperboy for the Chicago Tribune. Out of thousands of kids delivering the Trib, he won a contest for signing up the most new subscribers. The prize was an unforgettable week on a Colorado dude ranch with four other winners.

What drives success like Mueller’s?

“First, I strive to achieve excellence in

Larry Mueller and current President of the Boys & Girls Clubs of Metro Denver, John Barry

everything I do, and while that may sound trite,” he says, “it drives me each and every day.” After Ariba, Mueller could pursue whatever he wished. “I’d always loved travel as well as architecture and design. So I decided to create a different kind of company: an investment vehicle that would also represent the pinnacle in ultra-luxury travel experiences. Which is Cuvée. Next is passion. Whether in business or relationships, passion has to come from the heart. Finally, and of the utmost importance to me, is trust.”

Mueller got involved in Boys & Girls Clubs of Metro Denver about 10 years ago when Craig Andrisen invited him to play in the Jack A. Vickers Invitational golf tournament that benefits the organization.

Not long after the tournament, former CEO John Arigoni invited Mueller and his family to visit some of the clubs. They were deeply touched by the kids and impressed by the club’s impact on the kid’s lives. “With 40,000 kids in Metro Denver living below the poverty line, I think the best and most important investment

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we can make as a community is in these kids.” By providing safe and impactful experiences, the club empowers kids to continue their education, contribute to their community and live a healthy life.

Flight To Luxury is the event that Mueller and Cuvée created to invest in the kids of Boys & Girls Clubs of Metro Denver. Now in its sixth year, Flight To Luxury has become Denver’s must-attend fundraising event of the year, and for good reason. “I wanted to bring a whole new community together to support this incredible organization,” says Mueller.

“But I didn’t want a typical fundraiser in a hotel banquet room. I wanted to create an experience—one that would be a very effective fundraiser, plus a great experience for sponsors—somewhat similar to what Cuvée accomplishes when guests visit our homes.”

Held in private jet hangars at Centennial Airport, Flight To Luxury auctions amazing experiences in Cuvée’s custom-couture private villas, elite private jets and exotic super

Larry Mueller with daughters Emily (left) and Kate (right)

sports cars, with dozens of cars and jets on display. Guests also enjoy fine food, live entertainment and a men’s and women’s fashion show. The 2015 installment raised over $1 million and Mueller is hoping to eclipse that number at the annual event this fall (date TBA). About $4 million has been raised since its founding. “Flight To Luxury’s success is not possible without the incredible support and generosity of our sponsors, who represent Denver’s leading companies, foundations and individuals,” says Mueller.

But Cuvée’s philanthropy doesn’t stop there. From supporting a community center on the island of Lanai to donating a substantial amount of money in Los Cabos after Hurricane Odile ravaged the area in September 2014, “We engage in the local communities wherever we have our properties,” says Mueller.

Other Denver beneficiaries include The Children’s Hospital, the John Lynch Foundation and many more.

Mueller absolutely relishes his work and, outside of his family, it’s his greatest indulgence. Cuvée is in the business of creating the most special times in people’s lives. The company constantly gets notes from guests saying it was the greatest hospitality experience ever— how Cuvée literally changed their life.

“Bringing such a level of happiness and joy to people’s lives is what motivates me. Next is the team, the Cuvée family.

To see them do everything they can to satisfy our guests and take care of our incredible homes, they become part of your family. Being able to provide great opportunities and reward them in incredible ways is very important to me.”

He sums up his philosophy in two quotes. The first, “Never give up,” is from Winston Churchill and he uses that one a lot. The second is, “Follow me to heaven,” which may be Mueller’s own quote. “I’m not sure about that,” Mueller says, “but I mean if we stick together and stay on this track, we’re going to see great things.”

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Over the years, Mueller has become great friends with Craig. “I really respect his fashion sense—although I wouldn’t ever dress like him and he knows that.

But I feel really good about where he directs me,” says Mueller. “The store offers such a personalized approach.

They don’t look at you as a customer, but as a person, and a friend. They know what drives you, what you care about.”

As we were wrapping up the interview, Mueller shared that Cuvée is looking to expand to other parts of the world, and he is particularly excited about the possibility of developing something in Africa. More than what is certain to be an amazing safari/adventure experience, he hopes to create a preserve to protect habitats from over-development and over-tourism.

“I see ourselves as moving more in that direction and being very conscious of the environmental aspects of development.

Protecting wildlife, habitats, the oceans and the environment.” In the process, Mueller will undoubtedly create yet another incredible Cuvée Experience.

the FASHION forum

NEVER TOO LATE FOR A CHANGE

We’ve seen a complete changing of the guard in the late-night talk show world, with Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Fallon, James Corden, Seth Myers, Jimmy Kimmel and Trevor Noah among the funnymen now sitting in the interviewers’ chairs. But if the faces have changed, the uniform has remained mostly the same: dark suit, white or blue shirt, boring tie.

While these guys certainly look dapper, one can’t help but feel they could push the sartorial envelope a bit more. Corden is one of the faces of Burberry, so where are the cutting-edge designs and pops of plaid? Fallon recently signed a deal with G-III for licensed athletic wear, so perhaps he’s saving all his creative juices for that collaboration. And would it kill Myers to borrow something more casual and creative from Stefon, his former flame from Saturday Night Live? The time is ripe to start a trend. —BSL

DURABLE DENIM

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TOP: GETTY IMAGES. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF MUSEUM AT FIT

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ooking at the current highfashion uses for denim, from three-piece suits to stylish coats, it can be hard to imagine just how utilitarian the cotton fabric was in its earlier days, when it was worn during the California Gold Rush and used to make early 20th-century prison uniforms. That latter usage surprised even fashion historian Emma McClendon, author of the new book Denim: Fashion’s Frontier and curator of the exhibition of the same name at New York City’s Museum at FIT. Still, McClendon admits that denim’s constant permutations really shouldn’t be shocking. “It’s the rare fabric that’s relatively inexpensive to produce, extremely durable, and easy to care for,” she says. —BSL

OYSTER PERPETUAL GMT-MASTER II

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oyster perpetual and gmt-master ii are 速 trademarks.

The Fashion Forum

In addition to the distinctive touch Isaia’s red coral pin adds to the brand’s garments, they believe it also brings luck to the wearer.

"We still keep the original piece of Isaia red coral, given to me by a friend, in our Milan flagship store,” says Gianluca Isaia. “And every jacket we make comes with a red coral lapel pin to bring good luck to he who wears it.” The coral motif can also be spotted elsewhere throughout the collection, on buttons, under collars and in stitching.

As Isaia recounts from ancient mythology, Perseus slayed Medusa and delivered her head as a gift to the king of Seriphos, who was to wed his mother. During his travels home, Perseus fell in love with Andromeda, whom he found chained to a rock about to be eaten by the evil sea-monster Cetus. To prove his love and save her life, Perseus killed the terrible beast. As he sat to wash his hands in the sea, Perseus laid down the sack that contained Medusa's head. Her blood dripped into the water and instantly hardened into the form we recognize today as red coral.

Just as the head of Medusa brought luck to Perseus in his battle with Cetus, red coral brings luck to the distinguished man who chooses an Isaia garment. —JL

THE MAN, THE MYTH Italians are known to be superstitious, none more so than the Neapolitans.

FASHIONABLE FRIDA Is there anything more to know about Frida Kahlo? The great Mexican artist has been given the filmic treatment

by Julie Taymor (and played by Salma Hayek), and her work has been displayed everywhere from LACMA to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to the New York Botanical Garden. But another side of this groundbreaking woman is explored in Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the Art of Being (Assouline, $195), a new book by journalist Susana Martinez Vidal that was inspired by an exhibition of Kahlo’s own clothing at her home, La Casa Azul. As Vidal deftly illustrates, Kahlo’s fashion aesthetic is something neither time nor death can diminish. —BSL

STREET SMART Amsterdam’s Tassenmuseum gives the term “bag lady” a whole new (chic) meaning.

Inside a beautiful canal-side building, you can view hundreds of purses in various shapes, sizes and designs, spanning from the 1500s to the modern-day.

This spring, the museum’s Street Couture exhibition (through June 5) offers an enlightening perspective on these accessories as it showcases colorful, playful and inventive bags by such top fashion names as Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Dior, sometimes pairing them with international fashion ranging from Japanese “Lolita” clothing to American hip-hop outfits to illustrate how one influences the other. It’s definitely worth crossing the Atlantic to witness these crossovers! —BSL

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profile Samuelsohn:

The Big Reveal

Tailored clothing’s best-kept secret comes out of the closet!

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

These days, as business dress codes remain relaxed, men are choosing to wear fine tailored clothing because they want to, not because they have to. And men in the know are choosing Samuelsohn, an exceptional but low-profile clothing company that’s been crafting beautiful suits in Montreal since 1923.

But low profile no more, new ownership at this Canadian company relaunched the brand in 2011 and business has more than doubled. Much of the credit goes to the company’s new president and chief creative officer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, a talented designer and visionary executive who lives and breathes the clothing business. Upon taking over, he quickly recognized a “diamond in the rough” and immediately updated the label, the logo, the fabrics, the fits, the colors, the buttons, the linings, the marketing and more. What

22

remains constant: Samuelsohn’s commitment to exceptional quality, and the “expression” of its full-canvas hand-tailored suits that both fit and flatter the wearer.

“I feel like I’ve come full circle,” says Silverstone, a third-generation clothing guy who grew up in his father’s suit factory in Montreal. “I’d always known and respected the Samuelsohn brand, Canada’s quintessential quality suit maker. (My father wore Samuelsohn suits!) As my career moved forward—from my father’s company to launching my own clothing label (that I ultimately sold to Oxford) to becoming design director at Nordstrom—I always dreamed of returning to manufacturing.

When Samuelsohn was bought by Stephen Granovsky in 2010, I was recommended for the job of president, and felt it was exactly where I belonged.” hat makes Samuelsohn clothing so special? Silverstone could go on for hours.

“First of all, the suits are a rare combination of modern styling and classic tailoring, featuring fully basted canvas construction and hand-tailored details. Since all garments are produced in our own factory, we control every step of the process. Second, we are known for innovation, e.g. we were the first to come out with luxury performance fabrics that are cool, comfortable and wrinkle resistant; we’ve even developed clothing with carbon fiber!

Third, we have the cleanest distribution in the industry: we don’t sell to outlets, only the best specialty stores in North America. Fourth of course is our tremendous intrinsic value: there’s more craftsmanship in a Samuelsohn garment than in most Italian brands that are double the price. (Canada’s duty advantages and exchange rates offer additional value for American customers.) Fifth, our made-to-measure programs are the best in the industry. Sixth is our company culture: although we’re privately owned, we’re run more like a family business than a large corporation, with emphasis on customer service, personal relationships and employee appreciation.

“I know it sounds counterintuitive, but making money is not our number-one priority; we’re more concerned with providing the best goods at the best value and satisfying our customers so they’ll keep coming back.”

And come back they do! For spring ’16, check out the beautifully tailored Samuelsohn clothing arriving on our selling floor now. For practical types, we love the performance suit in a Loro Piana Storm System fabric with stretch. (It’s waterproof, wrinkle resistant and amazingly comfortable!) Or try the updated luxury travel blazer with 12 pockets and extra zippers. For nights and weekends, there’s an amazing washed cashmere sportcoat.

And to make a bold fashion statement, why not a beautifully tailored striped DB suit in a hot shade of blue?

Which is his favorite? “It’s like asking a parent to choose his favorite child,” Silverstone responds. So we’ll let you, our customers, be the judge…

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ON LOCATION WITH ANDRISEN MORTON SOMEWHERE IN DENVER...

A non-descript warehouse. The ultimate man cave. Filled with a wide array of extremely collectible automobiles. Fortunately, though the location must remain secret, our new spring/summer ’16 merchandise does not. Stop by the store for a peek.

Photo Credit: Studio JK Photography

page title Suit: Samuelsohn Shirt & Tie: Canali Shoes: Gravati

Sweater: Isaia Shirt: Eton Denim: Isaia Belt: W. Kleinberg XXXXXXX

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29 Ermenegildo Zegna

Vest: Herno Sport Shirt: Eton 5-Pocket: J. Brand Shoe: Santoni

Sportcoat: Boglioli Polo: Isaia 5-Pocket: PT05 Shoe: Tod’s

Brunello Cucinelli

page title

Sportcoat: Samuelsohn Dress Pant: Samuelsohn Dress Shirt: Talbott Neckwear: Ermenegildo Zegna Shoes: Di Bianco

Suit: Boglioli Dress Shirt: Robert Talbott Belt: Anderson’s Shoes: Alden

Tuxedo Jacket: Samuelsohn Bowtie: Robert Talbott Tuxedo Shirt: Eton

page title

Peter Millar

page title Outerwear: Corneliani Shirt: Eton of Sweden Pants: Zanella

page title Outerwear: Paul & Shark Sport Shirt: Paul & Shark 5-Pocket: Gardeur Shoes: Brunello Cucinelli

page title

Sportcoat: Samuelsohn Dress Pant: Samuelsohn Sweater: Ermenegildo Zegna Dress Shirt: Canali

Isaia Shoes: Di Bianco

Peter Millar

Sportcoat Boglioli Sport Shirt: Eton Shorts: AG Belt: W. Kleinberg Shoes: Santoni

page title Sport Shirt: Ermenegildo Zegna Shorts: Faherty Shoes: Tod’s

LEFT Sport Shirt: Faherty 5-Pocket: AG Shoes: Tod’s RIGHT Sport Shirt: Faherty 5-Pocket: AG Shoes: Santoni

Sport Shirt: Culturata 5-Pocket: AG Outerwear: Herno

Suit: Samuelsohn Shirt: Canali Neckwear: Massimo Bizzocchi

page title Sport Coat: Canali Dress Shirt: Eton Dress Pant: Canali Belt: W. Kleinberg

profile

Soft Touch

Boglioli is making the most of today’s “jacket moment.”

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

48

Becoming a standout brand in the world of Italian men’s fashion is far from an easy task, but it’s one that Boglioli has done in just two decades. While the Milanese company’s roots go back centuries, as top-notch tailors, Boglioli has made its mark in more recent times thanks to the softness of its fabrics— which range from linen blends to wools to cashmeres—and its unparalleled expertise in garment dyeing, says managing director David Newlove.

“We take our fabric straight from our mills, then we dye it, make the jacket, wash it and tumble dry it,” says Newlove. “It’s sort of a science, in a way, but we use our own recipes.

We know that each fiber we use reacts differently, but we always end up with an incredibly soft jacket. It’s important to be consistent.”

Indeed, Boglioli’s knowledge of how to make the ideal unconstructed jacket is second to none. “It’s true; a lot of companies can produce a deconstructed jacket, but not like ours. We call ours ‘empty,’” explains Newlove, who spent 17 years working for Giorgio Armani.

“Because of the cut and the structure, our jacket appears to have construction when it actually doesn’t. Your body is the canvas that makes it fit so well. And unlike a lot of companies, we only make six jackets at a time. It’s a very slow process. But if you overload the washing machines or dryers, the jackets will shrink too much. We never cut corners.”

As Newlove points out, the company is expanding into other areas of tailored clothing and sportswear (including a women’s line) under newly installed creative director Davide Morello. Nonetheless, its commitment to the jacket is especially important these days.

“We are definitely in a jacket moment,” he says. “I know it from talking to retailers; I see it from walking the street. Jackets are big with people in the tech industries, with emerging professionals, and with the cool hipster guy, along with the luxury market. I think we’ve barely scratched the surface of men who want jackets. The marketplace is definitely going in our direction. And once you’ve worn one of our jackets, you won’t go back!”

THE

STEAKHOUSE MVP

E LWAYS .CO M C H E R RY C R E E K • D OW N TOW N • VA I L • D I A

designers

WORK IT OUR FAVORITE MEN IN FASHION TALK FIRST JOBS AND SURPRISING JOURNEYS TO THE TOP.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA My first job was in London, folding shirts in a shop for £25 a week. This position eventually led me to my current role because I was (and still am) the best folding man around! The best part about my job as CEO of Isaia is that I wake up in the morning happy to go to work…

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON My first real job was actually unpaid since I dropped out of school (truth be told I was kicked out). My father helped me get a trainee job at a local hotel where I cleaned rooms, worked with the maintenance team and helped out in the conference center.

I think my father thought that because I was doing this rather boring job at 16, I would reconsider my decision to drop out and return to school. I can’t say I enjoyed working at the hotel but at least I learned I never want to work at hotels. I enlisted in the army at 17 against my will and I was out of the hotel world after six months.

After 10 months in the army service and another less successful career at a reception job, I moved back to my old hometown and applied for a position in the warehouse at Eton. That was my first job in the business. I was about to turn 19 and through Eton I heard about a sales rep position at Harrods in London. I got the job and that became the starting point to my career in fashion.

I love working at Eton because of my colleagues. I get to travel to so many interesting places, I find time to play with my band, Highly Sedated, and I have a genuine passion for what I do. I have found a profession that I enjoy doing so much so it rarely feels like I'm working. That has got to be the ultimate feeling. I guess it's a matter of finding what you love and then going out of your way to do it. I have worked hard to get where I am today, but the rewarding everyday feeling makes it all worth it.

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page title

TOC

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Come experience the luxury of Kiton, a ready-to-wear and bespoke clothing company from the heart of Italy. Available exclusively at Andrisen Morton.

1

GIOVANNI BIANCHI, L.B.M. 1911 My very first job was here at Lubiam, the company that manufactures L.B.M. 1911 and that has been owned by my family for over 100 years. After getting a high school diploma in scientific studies I studied economics in college for one year, but soon realized design was my passion. I enrolled in the faculty of Industrial Design at the Politecnico di Milano. Before my graduation I started training at Lubiam, and in 2002 I became product manager.

Although my siblings and I are the fourth generation of the family, my parents never pushed me to join the company. I decided to enter it on my own, to give my personal contribution to its growth the same way my father, grandfather and great-grandfather, Luigi Bianchi, did before me. I was hired for an entry-level position and used my first salary to buy the engagement ring for Ilaria, my wife of 12 years and partner for 22. My best investment indeed. We have four wonderful children together.

Fashion has been in my family's DNA for over 100 years. Joining the company was a spontaneous call that fulfilled my natural passion for creativity and design.

The possibility to create, dare and express myself with a language, the menswear language, was part of my history before I was born. As L.B.M. 1911's style director, nothing fulfills me more than creating a product with my own hands and intellect, and realizing season after season that I was able to conceive something new and original, while remaining loyal to my company's values.

L.B.M. 1911 is a perfect example of that. The line is completely focused on product innovation. The garment-dyed techniques and the finishes and washes our clothes undergo require constant experimentation and ongoing research. Another important aspect of my job is the unexpected power of inspiration. It can come to you by doing the simplest thing, like walking. All I need to do is be open to my environment and draw from it inspirations that can potentially translate into stylish and revolutionary ideas.

ADAM DERRICK, TO BOOT NEW YORK When I was 15 I got my first summer job at Macy's Herald Square. The position I ended up with was working the switchboard taking complaints! I don't remember how much it paid, but it wasn't much and definitely not enough!

Even though I went from the employee entrance directly up to my job, I always spent some time before or after my shift in the store. I loved the constantly changing displays and the energy and interaction on the sales floor.

Since founding To Boot New York, I get to do a lot of different things and exercise a lot of different muscles, creative as well as business. I work with great people, and enjoy my interactions with my colleagues and customers. I am a lucky man!

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DRESSing FOR A

GOODTIME Bring on the season of fun!

Add style and charisma to spring and summer with bright colors, breathable linens, light sportcoats, fun prints and great shades.

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Lightweight sportcoats with colorful pocket squares and great accessories bring life to the party.

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WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE NEW BLUE SUIT Black and charcoal feel too heavy for the warmer months, and the fit of your older suits is likely doing you a disservice.

To show you mean business, choose a blue slim-fit suit that follows the natural slope of your shoulder, nips in at the waist and breaks just slightly at the shoe. This color is less inky than traditional navy but is just as easy to wear. Pair with brown monkstraps and furnishings in seasonal hues.

BIG MEETING

WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE KNIT BLAZER Some guys have taken the “casual� part too far. Stay professional in a linencotton blend sportcoat that keeps you cool under pressure. This versatile knit blazer is unlike anything else in your wardrobe: polished and sophisticated without sacrificing an ounce of comfort. Tailored fivepocket pants are just formal enough, and a dress shirt and knit tie complete the look.

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WHAT TO WEAR NOW

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GOLF

A Forum Magazine Special Section

Sea Island Spotlight David Feherty Keeps it Real

Brandt Snedeker

Talks Pop-Style Putting

Teaching With Robots Golfwear: GETTY 1

Then and Now

resorts

Sea Island Dreaming The history and tradition of this spectacular resort fulfill a golf-lover’s fantasy. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

’m sitting on the waterfront veranda of The Lodge, one of two luxury hotels at Sea Island Golf Resort. (The Lodge, adjacent to three golf courses on St. Simons Island, feels like an old English manor; The Cloisters, built on Sea Island in 1928 but reintroduced in 2006 after a three-year renovation, blends the history and aesthetics of Mediterranean revival style.) I’m sipping a Jack Daniels, taking in a brilliant sunset, and listening to the soulful sounds of a solitary bagpiper who’s been strolling the shoreline for the past hour. Enchanted by the music, the scenery, the wildlife, the canopy of oak trees and the genteel and gracious hospitality throughout the resort, I’m more relaxed than I’ve been in ages. (I had intended to go for a massage at Sea Island’s famous spa, but after only a few hours at the resort I no longer need one…)

Truth be told: I’m not a golfer but since I’m married to one, I looked forward to a mini-vacation at this renowned Forbes Five-Star resort, home to one of the top-rated golf schools in the country. Little did I know how much the property has to offer above and beyond golf! James Gibson, Sea Island’s VP of operations, lists a hunting lodge, a shooting school, a yacht club featuring fishing, sailing and kayaking, a pristine beach, numerous swimming pools, an award-winning 65,000-square-foot spa, an indoor atrium, many fabulous restaurants (including the five-star Georgian room and my favorite, Colt & Alison) and numerous bars (I loved the Oak Room!) among the resort’s amenities. “Our demographic is multi-generational,” he explains as we sip tea in the historic Trophy Room. “Guests come with their children and grandchildren, couples come for romantic getaways, groups come for golf outings, and of course many PGA golf pros have chosen to make this their home.” Asked to articulate the essence of Sea Island, what makes it truly special,

66

Gibson talks about the employees. “At least 80 of our people have worked here more than 25 years, which is unheard of in our business,” he explains.

“Robert, who works in our men’s locker room, has been with us 50 years.

Ask him how he’s doing and he’ll always respond ‘Mighty Fine’ which is what we now call him. Our repeat customers always make it a point to visit with Mighty Fine…”

Brannen Veal, Sea Island’s director of golf, grew up playing golf in Macon, Georgia but turned to baseball at Auburn University (his dad had been a professional ball player with the Detroit Tigers). “After college, I went back to golf, starting out as a golf cart attendant as many of us do. I’m a good golfer (Editor’s Note: He’s being modest; he’s actually a scratch golfer.) and I’ve taught in Golf Digest top schools, but my passion is the service aspect: I love helping people enjoy the game.”

Discussing Sea Island’s celebrated state-of- the-art Golf Performance Center (featuring 3D capture, 13 top-rated instructors, three fitters, two fitness experts and its own psychologist), Veal talks about an individualized approach tailored to personal goals and skill levels.

Focusing on five core competencies (long game, short game, fitness, club fitting and mental game), Veal notes that each competency has its own instructors. “Our goal at this Performance Center was to create the ultimate golf experience: the best courses, luxury accommodations, fine dining, top fitness programs, exceptional instructors (who currently work with Davis Love, Matt Kuchar, Harris English, Zach Johnson and other pros) and our own sports psychologist, Dr. Morris “Mo” Pickens.

Veal points out that while many professionals frequent the Performance Center, it’s not just for five-handicappers. “I’d say the average handicap is mid-teens, and of course we also welcome beginners. And that’s one of the paradoxes we struggle with: because we have so many pros and so many

top-50 teachers, people sometimes assume they’re not good enough to be here.

So we’re trying to make the experience less intimidating. It’s essential for us to grow the game and not be so focused on professionals and top amateur players.

Sure they’re great, sure we want them here, but it’s just as important to get those beginner golfers who’ve never held a club, to make them feel comfortable so they want to be part of the game.”

Delving a bit further into the mental game, Veal jokes that “it’s the one place where I could destroy Dr. Mo: if he knew what was really going on in my head, he might never recover…” More seriously, he explains the process: usually a 30-minute initial assessment followed by Dr. Mo accompanying the golfer on nine holes and then coming up with suggestions. “It’s not earth-shattering stuff: it’s generally about how you compartmentalize, prioritize, focus and then let go. I know that’s oversimplified, but it works. And it’s as applicable to business, and to life, as it is to golf…”

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players

A HIGHLY RANKED PRO GOLFER WITH A UNIQUE PUTTING STROKE, BRANDT SNEDEKER SHARES SOME SECRETS.

BY TERRY C. GROSSMAN

itive. But it’s something I’ve always done so it feels natural to me.

Distinctive

Did others try to dissuade you from putting that way?

Yes, when I was younger they did. As I got better and better, I refined it over the years and made it a little simpler and easier to repeat.

Style

Which course has the toughest greens?

Augusta National. They are so severe and so fast and the margin of error is so small that it’s extremely difficult to be aggressive: because they’re so fast, you have to be defensive.

Some friends from Nashville want to know how you rate the greens at the Hillwood Golf Club, which you play when you’re home.

They re-did them with Bermuda a couple of years ago and they’re extremely fast. They’re difficult to read and they have a bunch of small slopes that are tough to understand. Playing there has definitely contributed to my green reading skills.

Regarding green reading skills, is this something you’re born with or can it be learned?

is nickname is Sneds, the Nashville-based pro golfer with the unusual putting style, and at age 35 he’s one of the best there is. A candid and down-to-earth family man who’s as fun to interview as he is to watch on the course, he and his wife Mandy started a foundation in 2013 that helps underprivileged kids who need a break in life. He’s also known for his charity work to benefit victims of natural disasters, and for his memorable MasterCard commercials in which Tom Watson mispronounces his name.

Here, we chat with Sneds about his passion.

What first piqued your interest in golf?

I started playing when I was about six years old and just kind of fell in love with it. My brother and I played a lot growing up; I had a passion for it so I played all the time and practiced all the time.

You’ve had enormous success with your pop-style putting stroke: why do few other pros use it?

That’s a very good question, and I haven’t the faintest idea. I guess because it’s difficult. It’s something I’ve always done but I suppose it’s hard for others to teach themselves to do it because the way I hit the ball is so counterintu-

It’s a bit of both. I think that I was definitely born with an innate ability. But as I played more and more, I refined my green reading over the years by learning to hit the ball consistently at a desired speed. The trick is learning how hard to hit the ball so as to produce the desired speed and to be able to do that consistently until it becomes automatic. If you can’t hit the putt the same way every time, it’s not going to matter how well you read the greens.

Can you give us any tricks of the trade? Do you take notes and reference them during the round?

One of the things I love to do before the tournament starts is play in the pro ams and try to read other people’s putts, so I can tell if I’m misreading or if they’re hitting them poorly. This gives me a general idea of what’s going on around the greens. I take notes when there are certain undulations that are tricky or counter to what you’d think. At times, some putts are faster while others are slower than they look. It just comes with experience.

I read that you changed putters. Think you’ll ever return to your old Odyssey Rossie II? I actually changed putters for about two months last year but I’m now back with my old one.

I used that model for 20 years but now use it to move logs in the fireplace…

Ha! Not what it was designed for, but I use some shafts at home to do different things with so I get what you’re saying...

Who do you consider the best putters of all time?

That’s a tough one. I think Jack Nicklaus was probably one of the best putters of all time just because of the amount of putts he made to win tournaments. And Tiger’s up there too due to the amount of putts he had to make under severe pressure and his ability to make them. Billy Casper and Jackie Burke were also among the best. Out here on the tour right now, I love watching Steve Stricker, or Brad Faxon when he gets out.

How about Crenshaw, who you didn’t mention?

Yes, Ben. We play a practice round together at Augusta every year because I love watching him putt on those greens. I love seeing how he reads them, how he hits them, his stroke… it’s a thing of beauty. It’s so natural and free flowing, which I’d love to be…

Who do you consider the greatest golfer of all time?

Jack Nicklaus, although I think Tiger has a chance to be right up there with him. Tiger had the most impressive run in golf: he led for seven years. I’m not sure he’ll end up winning as many as Jack did since he’s been so injured and his body has broken down. I really hope he gets healthy and comes back in his 40s: it would be great for him and great for the game of golf. So I hope to see him challenge Jack’s record but right now, I’d have to go with Jack.

What do you think about the impact of modern equipment on classic courses now that you pros can hit much further?

You know, it’s just like anything else in life: technology enhances but also makes some things obsolete. We redo buildings, we redo cars to accommodate technology, so why not golf courses? We modify everything else! People get so hung up on traditional golf courses, but they just need to be tweaked a bit by adding some yardage. I think golf has been given an unfair rap: technological advances aren’t such a bad thing.

and I’ve got to say they make it easy to look good. They’re a quality brand with an unbelievable array of great clothes. So whether I’m wearing them on the golf course or for my off-the-course casual lifestyle, their stuff looks great: golf shirts, button-down shirts, sweaters, sports blazers. When I’m home with the kids on weekends, I’m most often in a T-shirt and jeans.

Any other interests?

Being with my kids, who are right now at fun ages: five and three.

I like getting outdoors. I love fishing and hunting.

Are you introducing your kids to golf?

They’re already both into it and they love it. My little man especially, who is only three years old, wants to play every day. I love that they’re liking it!

Do you dream of them becoming pro golfers?

No, I wouldn’t push them. It’s ironic that a lot of guys on the tour push their kids away from golf rather than towards it because we realize that it takes lots of hard work, lots of luck and the chances of turning pro are so slim. But if my kids end up being passionate about golf and that’s the goal they want to pursue, then I’ll do everything in my power to help them.

“I SUPPOSE IT’S HARD FOR OTHERS TO TEACH THEMSELVES [MY PUTTING STYLE] BECAUSE THE WAY I HIT THE BALL IS SO COUNTERINTUITIVE.”

What was your single best moment on the golf course?

Winning the FedEx Cup. That was obviously a huge day for me, for my career, and most importantly for my confidence. Beating the best players in the world at their best—wow!

You won $10 million at that FedEx Cup in 2012; would you change that playoff system if you could?

No. Maybe I’d tweak it a little by giving out the points a bit differently, but the tour has done a great job by giving everybody a chance to win. I wouldn’t change much.

Your biggest regret as a touring pro?

Not having the experience as a 26-year-old to know what’s important and what’s not, what to worry about and what not to… That’s just part of the stuff you learn out here on the tour. This being my ninth year, I’ve kind of figured out what’s important and what’s not. As a 26-year-old, you really have no idea; you’re just trying to figure it out. I wish I could have kicked my younger self in the butt to have figured it out a little sooner.

How are you feeling these days and what’s your fitness regimen?

I had some injuries for a few years but that’s in the past and my body is now feeling great. I have a pretty stringent workout routine, a clearly defined program including an hour and a half a day of stretching and working out… soft tissue stuff to keep my body pliable. Off weeks I do more weight lifting and during the week more stretching and core stuff. Then there’s paying attention to diet, keeping myself hydrated, and I’m good to go.

Describe your fashion style on and off the course.

Well I’ve been partnering with Peter Millar for four years now

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interview

KNOWN FOR HIS WIT, WISDOM, CANDOR AND CRAZINESS, BROADCASTER DAVID FEHERTY ADDS SOME MUCH-NEEDED PERSONALITY TO THE GAME OF GOLF.

BY TERRY C. GROSSMAN

Changing the Game uch has been written about David Feherty’s demons: a past tinged by drinking, drugs, insomnia, instability and other evidence of a dark side. Not enough has been written about his brilliance: an extreme work ethic, tremendous generosity (his Troops First foundation has raised millions, providing assistance, counsel and training to wounded soldiers), incredible charm, self-deprecating humor and a unique ability to get inside the heads and hearts of his interview subjects to showcase a little-known side of even the best-known celebrities. His is a talent that is very rare indeed.

Growing up in war-torn Northern Ireland, Feherty turned pro at 17 (with a five handicap) and played in the ’91 Ryder Cup and the ’92 Masters. He finished top 10 in three majors but retired from his professional career in ’97, just when CBS was looking for an on-course analyst.

He attributes his 19-year tenure at CBS to good luck, noting that Tiger

Woods was starting out when he broadcast his first Masters and Jordan Spieth appeared on the scene for his last. Upon leaving CBS, Feherty signed contracts with NBC Sports and the Golf Channel, where he still does his highly rated interview series, launched in 2011.

Here, we talk to him about the state of professional golf and the turns his own career has taken.

What is it about golf that attracts so many different personality types? Can you articulate the appeal of this game?

It’s like no other sport in that it has an addictive quality. Not everyone can throw a 60-yard touchdown pass but everyone can hit a ball in the middle of the clubface down the center of the fairway. There’s an indescribable feeling the first time it happens: you feel like the master of the universe because you’ve influenced a small object to go a long way, exactly where you want it to. There’s a sweetness to it. And once you’ve done it once, you want to do it again. Kind of like heroin.

Do you feel you lived up to your potential on the course?

Oh I think I went way past it. Not that I was ever one of the top players in the world, but I got close at times and I have no idea why.

Who do you consider the greatest golfer of all time?

Tiger Woods. And it was harder to win in his era than it is today.

Do you think there will ever be another player who will dominate the tour for as long a stretch as Tiger did?

Not in my grandchildren’s lifetimes. It was an extraordinary spell.

Who has the sweetest swing in golf today?

Boo Weekley. There are players who line up behind him just to watch him hit on the range. It’s just gorgeous! He’s not a clothes horse; he’s not in great shape (he’s got issues with his back). In fact, he’s got a body like a ruptured sofa. But what a swing!

Well I kind of resemble him: the body, not the swing...

I’ve been there as well. When I quit drinking, I lost 75 pounds. I had been close to 250. I was six inches taller if I’d lie on my back…

make it more accessible. The golf course is spectacular, but they still have a lot more work to do around it.

You’re famous for your very insightful interviews. Which are your favorites?

What do you think of McIlroy’s decision to play for the Republic of Ireland in the 2016 Olympics?

Well, I’ve interviewed a couple of presidents, most recently George W. I’ve also interviewed Bill Clinton and I love the fact that these two are polar opposites but great friends. Then there was Bill Russell, the greatest winner in the history of American sports. I’ve also interviewed Nicklaus, Watson, Samuel L. Jackson, Larry David… a tremendous cross section of people. But if I had to pick a favorite, I guess it would be Lee Trevino, my first interview, and my hero growing up. I remember watching him win the 1968 U.S. Open: there was just something special about Lee Trevino… I was only 10 years old at the time but I loved his style, his attitude. Then when I got a little older, I learned his story. He came from nothing: that’s my kind of people.

Whether you’re British or Irish, if you come from Northern Ireland, you have to make a decision. I had two passports for a long time and exchanged them both for an American one. I’m very happy with that decision. It’s not political and it’s not geographic: who you are is mostly an emotional issue. I didn’t know who I was until, at age 32, I captained the Irish side at the Dunhill Cup; when they raised the flag after we won, I got this huge lump in my throat. I remember thinking, “Sh*t, I’m Irish!” I hadn’t thought much about it until that point but it’s definitely an emotional thing.

What’s the toughest part of your job?

The constant travel. I get worn out with it: airports, hotels, being away from home…

Which golfer, living or dead, would you most like to have interviewed?

And what, in your career, has been your biggest regret?

I would love to have interviewed Seve (Ballesteros). We lost him, but he would definitely have been on my list. He was a magician, a warlock. He could change the weather with his face.

I don’t have regrets. I was a 17 year old with a five handicap and I decided in a geography class to drop out of school and become a professional golfer.

When I look back, it was a miracle. Then, after I left professional golf, I was the right drunk in the right bar at the right time when CBS wanted to hire a course reporter. So I’ve been astonishingly lucky throughout my career.

Here’s a tough one: Spieth, McIlroy or Day? That is a tough one! I mean it’s so hard to pick between Jordan Spieth and Rory McIlroy. Rory has more majors and he’s a little older but Jordan…the last time we had a child this special, there were three wise men and a donkey involved. So I can’t really choose. By the way, you should know that I’m not really an expert on golf; I just play one on television.

They say it’s better to be lucky than good…

No sh*t!

“THE LAST TIME WE HAD A CHILD AS SPECIAL AS JORDAN SPIETH, THERE WERE THREE WISE MEN AND A DONKEY INVOLVED.”

If you were stuck playing on one course over and over, which would you pick?

St. Andrews. Hitting to the 18th green, you feel like you’re playing into the soul of golf.

Do you think technology has ruined or enhanced the game?

It’s definitely enhanced the game. For anyone who thinks it’s made the game too easy, just take a look at your score card. The amateurs are the important people in the game. Professional golfers are in the stratosphere where it really doesn’t matter. It’s the people who watch the game and pay for the 30-second commercials who drive the industry. They’re the important ones.

Is there any room in golf for tournaments played with older clubs and balls, like those used 25 years ago?

I think it’s a great idea; there’s room for a tournament like that for sure. I know they have this Hickory event that brings guys to their knees.

Something between present day and Hickory would be interesting as well. I was using a wooden driver at the end of my career…

Today, the pros are carrying the ball over 240-yard fairway traps.

With a five iron!

Correct. I recently played the gorgeous Sea Island golf course where the pros play the RSM Classic and which is, like older classic courses, relatively short compared to the modern courses. I find it a shame that for the pros, the new equipment has taken the teeth out of these classic courses.

But all they’d have to do to make those courses relevant again is make the surface of the ball a little bigger. We did it once before when the diameter went from 1.62 to 1.68 inches. It makes the ball sit up around the greens a little better so it becomes easier for the amateurs to chip. But for the pros, it’s harder to hit it in a straight line. It spins more and won’t go as far. But that’s way too simple a solution for the ruling bodies, who just want to be members of each other’s golf clubs and don’t care about much else.

What took them so long to bring the British Open back to Ireland, where Royal Portrush will host it in 2019?

You’re right: it’s not been there since 1951. Of course we had The Troubles in Northern Ireland and it has to be in Northern Ireland: It would break tradition if it were in the South.

There are only a couple of viable venues in Northern Ireland, Royal County Down Golf Club being one of them. But it doesn’t have the infrastructure: you couldn’t get the crowd in and out. I think it’s taken them this long to get back to Royal Portrush because they were unwilling to spend what it would take to

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di Bianco

TM

scarpe

Prima i Piedi www.scarpedibianco.com

history

Style Evolution

Golf attire then and now.

BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD

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GETTY1 HULTON ROYALS COLLECTION

GETTY1 THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION

Left: The Duke of Windsor (left) with Lord Castleross, 1933 Below: Ben Hogan, 1955

When I took up golf at the age of 41, the first thing I did was order a pair of shoes. Not just any shoes, mind you, as golf presented the perfect opportunity to bust out brown-and-white spectator wingtips.

When my Millennial-generation instructor saw me, he cast a doubtful eye. “The way it works,” he said, “is you’ve got to have game to wear stuff like that.”

I can see where he was coming from. I’ll never forget being in the group behind a freshly minted hacker. He hit every ball out of bounds, insisted on looking for it, and when he finally found it, took five strokes trying to hack it out of thick brush. But even more memorable than the colossal waste of time he imposed on everyone behind him was his bubble-gum pink sweater. There was something offensive in his assumption that he could wear fun clothes despite having no skill nor sense of etiquette.

But the problem with golf attire today is not that it’s too flamboyant, but that it’s too serious. Crazy pants show up now and then, but for the most part golf clothing embodies the game’s obsession with professionalization, technology, corporate sponsorship and branding, leaving few traces of its aristocratic origins or Caddyshack hijinks. If we were to gather a metaphoric foursome representing the past hundred years of golf attire, we would see a

free suburban leisure: loud pants clash with bright-colored shirts and alpaca cardigans, and the clown colors seem to perfectly reflect the comedy of errors that is the game of golf. Hats are dispensed with altogether.

Finally stepping onto the tee box—and shooting from the blacks—is an imposing figure, so teched-out he simply must be a single-digit. He doesn’t wear wingtips, but shoes that look designed for skateboarding. His clothing is loaded with performance attributes and splattered with manufacturers’ logos. He wears a baseball cap, where yet another logo blares its brand loyalty. Everything is color-coordinated, from his glove to his belt to driver head, which comes with 12 hosel adjustments. This is the Technocrat. In the near future, research will find that pants and zippered pullovers create wind resistance, and that a spandex bodysuit—the kind speed-skaters wear—can increase clubhead speed by an average of 1.2 miles per hour. This guy will be the first at his club to wear one.

On the surface it would seem like little in the game of golf has changed: you still try to hit a ball 400 yards into a four-and-a-half-inch hole in four strokes. Yet golf has always been driven by change and technology—the old balls were called featheries precisely because they were stuffed with feathers. And the world of golf instruction is increasingly accepting that there is no perfect one-size-fits-all swing, and that it’s more a matter of finding your own unique way of achieving the desired result.

Dressing for golf should be no different: you can wear whatever the hell you want, so long as it works for you.

sartorial mirror of change in both the game and society at large.

Let’s say that first on the tee box is the Gentleman. His hero is the Duke of Windsor, and he is clad in argyle knee socks, tweed plus-fours (knickers), tattersall shirt, wool tie and Fair Isle sweater. For him golf is a game played on the vast acreage that surrounds a country estate—land that is used for farming (golf was invented by Scottish shepherds, after all), hunting, riding and keeping everyone else—save for the servants—as far away as possible. The clothing hardly differs from that worn for other country activities. Yet despite how it seems, there’s still a touch of the modern: for when the Duke of Windsor, the biggest fashion leader of his era, first donned a Fair Isle sweater in 1921, it was something new.

Next on the tee is the Classicist, from whom I take my personal inspiration.

Whereas the Gentleman looks anachronistic, the Classicist is inspired by the past but stylistically relevant. The shoes are traditional, but the trousers are pulled from the man’s everyday wardrobe. The necktie is no longer customary, and in place of a dress shirt is a fitted short-sleeve polo shirt covered by a cashmere V-neck. A flat cap tops off the outfit. This simple, modern, timeless look was personified by Ben Hogan in the 1950s.

Wisecracking his way to the tee box next is the Country Clubber, even if he’s playing his local muni course at the discounted twilight rate. This guy’s hero is Bill Murray, and he resides in a sunny suburban community. He exemplifies the era when golf courses sprouted up across America, and middle-class desk jockeys took up golf to climb the social ladder. The clothing symbolizes a life of care-

ISTOCK: CHATCHAI SOMWAT

Left: Bobby Jones, 1920s; Right: Sergio Garcia, 2013

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tech

Greens

Machines Artificial intelligence offers a supposed shortcut to the hard work of learning golf.

BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD

“The flashiest entry into the world of golf training aids is RoboGolf Pro, which resembles something we might sink drop on Mars to dig through rocks.” n the 1996 film Tin Cup, Kevin Costner plays a washed-up golfer who loses his swing (a common plot device in golf movies). When he finally hits rock bottom, co-star Rene Russo discovers him shackled in swing aids, plastic gizmos and rubber straps latched to every part of his body in his desperate attempt to remember how to move properly.

Since the days of yore when Scottish shepherds invented the absurd game of golf, there has been a quest for a magic move, a cure-all panacea that would instantly fix the veteran when his swing mysteriously goes awry, and allow the novice to bypass the traditional learning rout (which basically consists of banging tens of thousands of balls over the course of years).

The flashiest entry into the world of golf training aids—it’s certainly the largest, priciest and most technologically advanced—is RoboGolf Pro, which resembles something we might sink drop on Mars to dig through rocks. Developed in Germany and distributed in the U.S. by Scot Nei under the name RoboGolf Pro, the machine features a golf club on the end of a computer-driven hydraulic arm. Custom data is input into the computer, the club is gripped and the robotic arm takes the user through the path the club should ideally follow in order to hit the ball long and straight. It's a way of not only teaching the proper plane on which

the club should travel, but of ingraining muscle memory at the subconscious level, says Nei. RoboGolf Pro is priced at $150,000 and its target market is professional golfers (even they want to get better), teaching academies and private golf clubs.

There are currently 12 locations in the U.S. where you can book a learning session, but all that technological input doesn’t come cheap. RoboGolf suggests package deals, stressing repetitions to build muscle memory, with packages typically running $2,000.

One of the unique challenges of golf is recognizing that human beings are not machines, and that every day you feel a little different. The key thought that worked yesterday fails to work today. And it bears repeating that throughout history, great golfers have possessed every possible body type, tempo, style and every other variable, and yet the only thing that mattered was that they all got themselves into the same position at impact, golf's so-called moment of truth.

For as long as there are golfers, there will be those willing to resort to anything to learn and improve. But science fiction always cautions us that artificial intelligence is hardly the same as human intuition, and there's no individuality inside the moving limbs of a robot. Mankind has yet to devise a guaranteed shortcut to perfecting the golf swing, for, as a celebrated book says, “golf is not a game of perfect.” And neither is being human.

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travel

Brijuni

The elusive islands of Croatia.

BY STAN WILLIAMS

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ne of the first decisions you’ll have to make when planning a trip to the secluded archipelago of Brijuni off the Istrian coast of Croatia is whether to book a Socialist-era room or an updated one in the only hotel on the main island of Veli Brijun. (Anyone who knows of my love of history and vintage style can guess what my Croatian-born partner and I chose for our late-summer stay.)

Part of Italy until after World War II, it was originally called Brioni, the name inspiration for the chic Italian men’s line that was founded in 1945. Previously the private getaway of the late Yugoslavian president Josip Broz Tito, the islands, designated a national park and opened to the public in 1983, now go by their Croatian name, Brijuni.

Over the years, friends who have visited this oasis urged us to prioritize it as a destination, as rumors have circulated about a large hotel chain or moneyed developer eyeing it as a prime location for an exclusive resort. So far, the chatter has been just that, and a stay today continues to recall the mid-1950s, accented with a splash of modern luxury.

But the allure of a bygone era remains, from the original

Above: An aerial view of the Brijuni islands.

Left: A column from the remains of a 1st-century Roman villa.

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light fixtures in the bar to the Midcentury headboard in our pleasant, semi-Socialist-era room in the Neptun-Istra building. It was a step up from rooms in the Karmen, where bare-boned but comfortable rooms start at €33 (about $38) a night. But even in the Istra wing, which has undergone a thorough renovation, the most expensive rooms cost €292 (about $330), a bargain for many U.S. travelers. Lodging includes a generous breakfast buffet. (Pay an extra dollar and order coffee from a waiter; it’s worth it.)

Transfers to and from Veli Brijun, the main island among 14 smaller islands, are also included. It’s reachable only by ferry from the town of

From top: An updated room in the Istra hotel; guests at the entrance to Brijuni’s Safari Park; an olive tree dating back to the 4th century.

IMAGES COURTESY OF BRIJUNI NATIONAL PARK

The island, part of Italy until after World War II, was originally called Brioni, the name inspiration for the chic Italian men’s line that was founded in 1945.”

Fažana, where those arriving by car must leave their vehicles in a private parking lot reserved for Brijuni guests.

What our room lacked in updates—no air conditioning (didn’t need it!), thin mattresses, uncoordinated furniture—it made up for in pure charm.

Ceilings soared; the space was more than 450 square feet including a gigantic bathroom; and our spacious private terrace offered a to-die-for view of the entire harbor spotted with yachts bobbing dreamily in the Adriatic Sea. Besides, why spend any more time than necessary in a hotel room while vacationing in a lush national park? Days are better spent swimming, both on a nearby beach and in the many hidden nooks around Veli Brijun. There’s also a safari park that prides itself on protecting endangered species, world-class golfing and tennis, and romantic pathways among ancient Roman ruins.

The sole way to get around the island, other than on foot, is by bicycle or

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golf cart. There are few restrictions on where visitors are allowed to venture, but private residences reserved for Croatia’s political elites and areas used by the military are off limits.

Since the island can accommodate only those who arrive via ferry, overcrowding is never a problem. While riding over the paths that loop through the island, it felt as if we were the only ones there.

A rainy day is a good excuse to walk through the Tito Museum, where photographs of highprofile visitors are on view; Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida were among the president’s many guests.

Museum-goers can even take a spin in Tito’s restored 1952 Cadillac Eldorado, which he endeared with the name “Victoria,” or just take a photo with her for a couple of dollars.

Dining options are limited, so reserving an outdoor table for the Hotel Neptun-Istra’s evening meal is strongly suggested. While not extravagant, service is excellent and meals run about $35 per person, including a delicious glass of Istrian white Malvazia.

But then who’s thinking about food when a spectacular view of the sea beckons attention? At 11 p.m., a sudden stillness settles in as the last ferry makes its way back to the mainland, leaving us to ponder the mysteries of this magical island.

wheels

A Horse

With No Mane

If driving is your passion and performance is your goal, the Shelby Mustang GT350 is sure to please.

BY DAVID A. ROSE The 1960s saw automobile manufacturers pushing the limits when producing performance cars. The public loved these machines: the more power under the hood, the more love. In 1965 one of the most desired performance cars was introduced: the Shelby GT350 Mustang. With a modified 289-cubic-inch V8, this car produced 306 horsepower. To enhance the hype, 34 of these cars were built specifically for racing in the Sports Car Club of America’s B Production class, where they won the national championships in 1965, ’66 and ’67. In 2015 the Shelby GT350 Mustang celebrated its 50th anniversary at the Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion, where dozens of these magnificent vehicles were on display and on the track at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca.

For sports car enthusiasts who reminisce about the glory days of the 1960s, there’s good news: Ford Motor Company has resurrected the iconic marque with an all-new Shelby GT350 Mustang. Carroll Shelby’s original concept of transforming an excellent road car into an extraordinary road racing car is apparent in this sixth-generation Mustang, the most nimble, best-balanced and most powerful Mustang to date. Ford offers two engine options: the 2.3-liter EcoBoost with twin-scroll turbochargers (310 horsepower and 320 ft. lbs. of torque) and the 5.2-liter V8 (producing over 500 horsepower with more than 400 ft. lbs. of torque) matched to a lightweight sixspeed manual gearbox. Like the models built in 1965, there’s one

color only: Wimbledon white with Guardsman blue rocker stripes.

I recently drove the Shelby GT350 Mustang with 2.3-liter EcoBoost at Lime Rock Park, and although this is the milder version, it felt like a race car as it traversed the 1.5-mile course.

The vehicle scored high marks for handling, braking and acceleration.

Performance is crucial to a car lover, but so is styling.

“Everything we changed on the GT350 is purely function-driven design,” says Ford design director Chris Svensson. “We optimized the aerodynamic shape of the car and then fine-tuned what was left to increase down-force and cooling airflow. All bodywork from the windshield forward is unique to this high-performance model, and up to two inches lower than the Mustang GT.” More than 9.2 million Mustangs have been sold since being introduced in 1964. The new Shelby GT350, true to its heritage, might be the greatest of them all.

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resorts

The Avalon Palm Springs is a California Dream come true.

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON You may not be able to put your camel to bed at the Avalon Hotel Palm Springs, but this stunning desert resort, nestled between Downtown’s main drag and the foot of the rugged San Jacinto Mountains, is definitely an oasis from morning until after midnight.

Famed interior designer Kelly Wearstler has refurbished this 1930s hotel, which boasts 67 luxuriously appointed guest rooms as well as 13 deluxe villas complete with furnished private patios and fully stocked wet bars, with a nod to Hollywood Regency style.

And even with all that Palm Springs has to offer—from world-class golf clubs to the wonderful McCallum Theater—you may never want to leave the Avalon, thanks to its three pools, top-notch spa and superb restaurant, all set amongst four acres of fragrant, beautifully manicured gardens.

The Estrella Spa (which takes its name from the original moniker of the hotel) is the ideal health and wellness experience, whether you’re looking for a massage, scrub, facial, or all of the above, thanks to its well-curated selection of thoughtfully assembled options.

In addition to such traditional pampering, the Estrella offers alternative treatments that stem from the time-honored traditions of alchemy, holistic health and global herbal medicine—all of which use only handmade herb-infused oils and butters combined with custom-blended essential oils provided by American Medicinal Arts.

At the hotel’s much-loved Chi Chi restaurant, chef Tara Lazar’s menu evokes her childhood summers spent south of the border. She creates soulful Latin standards with a dash of cheeky California wellness, using the freshest local ingredients. There are whimsical if potent cocktails such as the “Ango Mango Ango” and “Desert Jewel”; tempting brunch options ranging from cheeky chilaquiles with chorizo to avocado toast to yam and pork belly hash; and such delectable lunch and dinner specialties as beef picadillo empanadas (perfect for sharing), a fermented yerbe mata salad, coconut oil fried chicken, and scallops al pastor served with Lazar’s “miracle rice.”

Believe me, this is one hotel you’ll want to spring for, again and again!

Desert Delight

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The world’s best trousers.

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MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sportcoats, shirts and trousers, or even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will truly be a fit like no other.

ALTERATIONS With six full-time master tailors and seamstresses on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to the finished product. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new purchase.

SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange

special appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs.

Just call and we’ll make it happen.

HOME/OFFICE VISITS Sometimes business or life gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. But no worries. We’re more than happy to come to your home or office.

So give us a shout and we’re there.

GIFT CARDS For that hard-to-buy-for kinda guy, give the gift of Andrisen Morton. Stop in or give us a call. We’ll take care of the rest.

CLOSET CONSULTATION Is the closet full, but you still can’t find anything to wear? Call in the

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style pros of Andrisen Morton for a personal closet consultation. You’ll get an objective view of your entire wardrobe and a friendly nudge to gently help you weed out the old, tired and worn to make room for the new.

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COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP There’s gift-wrapping and then there’s Andrisen Morton gift-wrapping. It’s always complimentary and always with the utmost style and a dash of panache.

250 Columbine, Suite 102 • Cherry Creek North

style

Larry David and Jerry Seinfeld have put a functionover-fashion lifestyle on the luxury map.

NORMal

to the CORE

Why your wardrobe needs quality basics.

For centuries, luxury fashion pushed the limits of wearability.

Fussy styles and decadent details by famous designers were said to reflect wealth, extravagance and certainly status.

Fast-forward to 2016. Those almighty fashion houses still stand, but the look of luxury has taken a different course. The most notable influencers of the past two years? Larry David and Jerry Seinfeld.

Yes, these two have put simple sneakers, tapered denim, casual sportcoats and a function-over-fashion lifestyle on the luxury map. It is, without a doubt, their version of wealth, success and status that has altered what we are seeing today on runways and sidewalks alike.

Normcore is the name. Hardcore normal is the game. The term was first coined by K-Hole, a New York-based cultural reporting agency that suggested Millennials wanted to seek out individual identities by blending in versus undertaking the exhausting effort to stand out. Thus the “more-going-on-inside-than-meets-the-eye” look has become wildly popular.

And big luxury brands are picking up what Larry and Jerry have (unwittingly) put down. Fendi released its spring/summer 2016 collection in Milan, showcasing its take on this trend with an array of minimalist shapes, colors and comfortable silhouettes. Other industry pioneers of normcore include Prada, Celine, Vince and Chanel, so be prepared for others (including the fast-fashion copycats that

BY NATALIE GALAS

clothe the masses) to follow suit. The desire for high-end basics is definitely happening and it will likely continue for some time.

Recently, Harvard researchers conducted an interesting study revealing customer behavior in luxury retail stores. They concluded that people shopping in tracksuits are actually perceived as more confident and likely to splurge than those waltzing through the doors in fancy clothes or otherwise contrived outfits. While we’re not advocating that the trend be taken to the tracksuit extreme, we must admit that unpretentious people dressed in simple, well-made attire seem to be the epitome of cool these days.

For surely, looking confident and appropriate while staying comfortable is a luxury in itself—and in a society that has become less formal, it makes perfect sense. Now that upscale brands are presenting more relaxed, well-styled basics in luxury fabrics, it’s easier than ever to look great without trying too hard. In fact, you don’t need to flaunt a lot of details or patterns or status labels these days. Consider instead a soft white cotton T-shirt under a washed linen sportcoat, worn with a light denim pant and a plain white sneaker (sans logo).

The air already feels lighter. The quality of these simple pieces is what stands out, and the less “branded” the look, the better.

So who’s the new hero of high-fashion normcore? Might it not be the shleppy-looking fashion designer taking a bow at the end of his runway show?

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Lamborghini Denver

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end page

Loose

Threads

A RELATIONSHIP UNRAVELED. . . BY HOLLY ADAM

side when I needed him.

A few weeks into that year, he hitchhiked thousands of miles just to see me.

I was thrilled, but it tossed a real monkey wrench into my settling in. I couldn’t sort out who I was, who we were. Later that spring, I lied to him. He had moved to a closer college, more suited to him. I visited there, and told him I was going south with some friends. He knew I’d been trying to decide between him and another guy. We were at a breaking point, and I broke his heart.

Badly. Unfairly.

He never went dark on me, despite my bad choices. We spent a summer together in our hometown a year later. He made a life-altering decision then, and I had to sit back in silence. My beautiful man was going into the military, into a very specialized unit. It would transform the rest of his life. And mine. And so we parted.

I recently discovered a treasure he had sent me decades ago, something I thought should go to his children. He emailed me back with his address, noting that he was soon coming east, would I like to have dinner?

Thankfully, I didn’t have time to think about it.

The trials and tribulations it took both of us to get there (flat tire for me, missed flights for him, cash and passports left behind) were inconsequential. I pulled up in my old car with the spare in the backseat; he was instantly beside me, holding my cheeks and kissing me as if no time had passed.

Miraculously, we still had our connection, as natural and spontaneous as me removing that thread from his sportcoat long ago.

Made me look in the mirror. Very closely.

n a recent set of crazy circumstances, I had the opportunity to reconnect with the first love of my life, 35 years later…

Back in the day, I spent more time with him and his father than I did with my own family. They had a glamorous bachelor pad for two, with an amazing view. Dinner was almost always “out.”

On our first official date, he had on a new sportcoat. I should have known he needed saving: the basting stitches had not been removed. I pulled them out, discreetly. (Who would have guessed that, years later, I’d end up an arbiter of men’s fashion at Bloomingdale’s?)

There was a painful parting at the airport when he went off to college. Weeks later, my father drove me to college and on the way told me that he and my mother were getting divorced. I was in escape mode, and Daddy was horrified that I brushed off something so important. But I didn’t really brush it off, devastated that the love of my life was a million miles away instead of there by my

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IMAGE BY THADDEUS ROMBAUER COURTESY OF HICKEY FREEMAN

I should have known he needed saving: the basting stitches had not been removed.

I pulled them out, discreetly.”

ANDRISEN MORTON FORUM SPRING & SUMMER 2016