GARYS Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2012
THE JACKET AN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH
FASHION AND FANTASY
DESERT DREAMS
2CUUKQP HQT 5KNM
WELCOME TO THE SPRING 2012 ISSUE OF GARYS FORUM MAGAZINE Dear Friends and Valued Customers, It’s finally spring, a time to refresh, renew and reenergize. And while you’re at it, why not update your look with some cool fashion items from our recently arrived menswear collections? In the process, check out our newly renovated selling floor that you’re sure to find lighter, brighter, more spacious and decidedly more modern than before. (But don’t worry: we’ve managed to retain the warmth and charm you’ve come to expect from GARYS!) Within this new space, we’ve also showcased a designated section for world-class offerings from Ermenegildo Zegna. And speaking of world class, GARYS recently hosted a dozen of the top independent apparel stores in the country. The Forum Apparel Group dates back to 1947, when retailers would take the railroad cross-country for buying trips to New York City. The best merchants (hailing from Seattle, Cleveland, Minneapolis, Lubbock, Memphis, Pittsburgh, etc.) would pass time on the train by sharing card games, cocktails and business insights, the ultimate goal being to learn from each other. Believe it or not, this group still exists, still shares best practices and continues to learn from each other 65 years later! While meeting here in Newport Beach, these merchants (the sons, daughters and grandchildren of the original members) raved about our updated selling floor with its exciting shops, from the rock star chic of Robert Graham to the European sophistication of Hugo Boss. After several days of productive meetings, the group was treated to legendary Southern California weather (temperatures in the high-70s to mid-80s) while taking in the sights of the Pacific coastline. (We’re also proud to note that several times during their stay, the group toasted GARYS’ CEO Dick Braeger as the menswear industry’s “quintessential” merchant!) We hope you enjoy this issue of Forum magazine, created to entertain and inspire our fashion-savvy customers. In addition to fabulous spring 2012 clothing (shot on location in Morocco), there are interesting articles on photography, luxury camping, sports history and spirits, as well as profiles on several of our key fashion vendors. As always, we look forward to catching up when you’re in the store. Happy spring! —Dick, John and Kari Braeger
GARYS 1
GARYS Fashion Island, Newport Beach 949-759-1622 Del Mar Plaza, Del Mar 858-794-0740 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell
FEATURES 1 6 16 24 46 50
Welcome Letter Giving Back: Working Wardrobes Footwear: If the Shoe Fits Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant Photography: Rock Star Escapes: Star Treatment
MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton
FASHION 10 14 18 26 28 36
Designers: Robert Graham Suiting: Tailored to Perfection Profile: Samuelsohn Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style A Walk in the Walled City The Jacket
DEPARTMENTS 8 12 42 48 54 58 60
At Your Service Ask Forum CEO Style: Dinner With Friends Speed: Leaping Cat Sports: Much Ado About Ankles Spirits: Roll Out the Barrel End Page: Pull it Together
CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-6864412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
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OVER 120 STORES INCLUDING:
Concierge 949.721.2000 ShopFashionIsland.com
Kwiat earring, Rolex watch at Traditional Jewelers.
Elie Tahari . Trina Turk . Jonathan Adler . Kreiss . 7 For All Mankind . Splendid . True Religion Apple . Fleming’s Steakhouse & W ine Bar . Melvita . American Rag Cie . Garys . Traditional Jewelers Fashion Island is a registered trademark of the Irvine Company. Š The Irvine Company LLC, 2011.
giving back
DOES YOUR CLOSET LOOK LIKE THIS? IF SO, WE CAN HELP. DONATE YOUR CLEAN, GENTLY-USED PROFESSIONAL OR BUSINESS CASUAL CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES TO WORKING WARDROBES AT ANY GARYS LOCATION. Working Wardrobes is a non-profit organization that serves men, women and teens who are emerging from a life crisis and are committed to re-entering the workforce. They also specialize in helping our veterans in transition get back to work. We accept men’s and women’s clothing, footwear and accessories, including handbags, and we ask that all clothes are dropped off on hangers. To learn more or to coordinate a donation, please contact Steve Loucks at GARYS (949.759.1622 / stevel@garysonline.com). He will assist you in getting your donation delivered and make sure that you receive a receipt from GARYS and Working Wardrobes confirming your tax-deductible contribution. You may also visit www.workingwardrobes.org for additional information regarding volunteer and sponsorship opportunities, special events and more.
GARYS
We are proud to support this worthy cause, and we hope you’ll join us in giving back to our community.
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PERSONAL SHOPPING At your request, one of our sales associates will pre-select garments that fit your style and notify you of their arrival in the store.
Alex Perez, GARYS tailor for over 14 years
HOME DELIVERY & SHIPPING We ship to anywhere in the United States. If you’re in town, we can hand deliver to your door for added convenience.
AT YOUR SERVICE
TAILORING
Our on-site expert tailors will happily work with you and your sales associate to create the perfect fit.
GIFT CARDS
SIGN UP FOR E-MAIL & LIKE US ON FACEBOOK Get the latest information on special events, in-store appearances, trunk shows and promotions.
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ONLINE
Our world-class selection of brands is now available for purchase at garysonline.com. Just click on “Online Store.”
WARDROBE CONSULTING & CLOSET CLEANING
In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And, if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.
MADE-TO-MEASURE
We proudly offer luxury hand-tailored garments personalized to suit your individual taste and style. Your measurements are kept on file and updated as needed, so a new garment can be specially created for you at any time. A wide variety of models and fabrications are available from the following brands:
BRIONI • CANALI • ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA • ISAIA • ROBERT TALBOTT • SAMUELSOHN 8
BOSS Black
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600
designers
secret is exceptional product. Ten years ago, they virtually invented the colorful contrast trim woven sportshirt that revolutionized men’s fashion. By juxtaposing patterns on collars, cuffs, and/or the actual body of the shirt, they created a whole new look for men’s casual dressing. Since then, the line has evolved to include tailored clothing, footwear, an extensive assortment of premium denim, and lots of whimsical accessories, from
ROBERT GRAHAM:
ECLECTIC STYLE CELEBRATING 10 YEARS OF FASHION INNOVATION. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
nyone who’s ever thought that men’s fashion is boring can’t be familiar with Robert Graham apparel. Founded by award-winning designer Robert Stock 10 years ago, these exciting clothes are part of a total lifestyle concept, summed up by his trademarked mantra (Knowledge, Wisdom, Truth) that appears on every garment. In addition to the fabulous fashion and spiritual components, Robert Graham sportswear offers up a hefty dose of fun! The company does more than 150
events a year, including the prestigious Concours d’Elegance antique car rally in Carmel, California. Their strong celebrity following includes athletes (Albert Pujols, Mariano Rivera), actors (Alec Baldwin, Owen Wilson), musicians (The Beach Boys, 50 Cent) celebrity chefs, wedding planners and more. High profile fans notwithstanding, Robert Graham’s real success
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hats to socks. Although he’s been through similar brand-building journeys several times in his career, Stock (who started out working with Ralph Lauren) couldn’t be happier about this one. “What’s different here is that Robert Graham is not just about clothes; it’s about making people happy. Our customers are collectors: some of them own literally hundreds of our shirts. At a recent personal appearance in a store, I lent the DJ one of our shirts in a size 2XL. After the appearance, he confided how many people told him how great he looked. (So of course I gave him the shirt!) And that’s what drives me: seeing that kind of reaction…”
From top: Robert Stock; 50 Cent; Albert Pujols
ASKFORUM
SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Q:
I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?
Q:
What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current for spring/summer 2012?
Q:
My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the same suits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?
Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style. Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a balanced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, twobuttons are in and pleated pants are out! The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea to invest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construction and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights your shape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speed with updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick up a few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins the silhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.
Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to 8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Midweight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regularweight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabric types are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersucker in lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannel in darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.
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CANALI
Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way to update is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright colors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or soft coats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few times for relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with ones that can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani. The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers that deck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers are always safe bets, too.
suiting
TAILORED TO PERFECTION
100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETS MODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL
RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is an
Zegna suits in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun.
exquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say, took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just in time for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniversary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waist and natural, semi-constructed shoulders. Like all Zegna suits this season, the new Milano, available in both single and doublebreasted, is interpreted in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun, with an everso-slight sheen reminiscent of sharkskin clothing from the 1950s. But the Milano is tailored with a decidedly modern sensibility. The jacket is cut slightly shorter and features just a hint more interior canvas—as many as three layers— for structure, yet the finished garment remains remarkably lightweight. The defining element is the barchetta, or boat-shaped breast pocket, a sewing detail that can only be achieved by hand. Initially a cloth producer and later a suit and sportswear maker, Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) has perfected the art of lighter-than-air suit making like no other designer label in history. The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand not only constructs all of its own suits in factories around the world (prompting the company to introduce the slogan ‘Made in Zegna’), but the family-owned company
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has pioneered everything from the technically advanced fabrics used to make its suits to the su mesura, or made-to-measure, concept often employed to sell them.
W
HAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-
cially the made-to-measure variety—can only be answered by slipping into one. Each piece is a labor of love tailored to your exact specifications, in the fabric of your choice. You can select the number of pockets, the direction of the pleats on your trousers and even the buttons and whether or not they work. Moreover, it will be made with such attention to detail that your every physical anomaly— from sloping shoulders and a thrown back to a hollow chest or an enlarged abdomen—is actually masked by the finished garment. (Buying one of these suits is a far better option than going under the doctor’s knife.) You may never need to visit your tailor again. “By the time a made-to-measure suit is complete over 500 hands will have touched it and more than 7,000 hand stitches will have been used to create it,” explains image director Anna Zegna. Zegna workers have a hand in every step, from shearing the sheep through the processing of the fiber into yarn (and then fine fabrics), to the cutting and sewing of every jacket using a combination of modern machinery and hand finishing. “The perfect fit of a Zegna suit comes from constructing it with 100 pieces; the lining alone comprises 12 separate components,” adds Zegna. After each piece is precision cut, it passes through the hands of hundreds of tailors, whose singular purpose is to turn
THE SECRET of a Zegna suit isn’t just the meticulous way it’s put together, but the innovative cloth used to make it. The company’s founder and namesake, Ermenegildo Zegna, began as a fabric maker in 1910 with the creation of a natural wool weighing roughly 350 grams per square meter, considered featherweight by early 20th-century standards. Today, most Zegna fabrics weigh in at a fraction of that and include such technical advances as Trofeo, a worsted wool made of prestige Australian superfine merino wool with long fibers for added strength and resiliency, and the latest 13milmil13, a vicuna-like fabric made from
merino yarns measuring less than 13 microns. (To appreciate how exceptional this is, one need only reflect on the fact that a human hair measures roughly 50 to 60 microns.) The development of such fine micron wools is the result of Zegna’s 1963 initiative, the Vellus Aureum trophy, which motivates and awards Australia and New Zealand’s sheep farmers who produce these ultra-fine wools. Pioneering fabrics for spring include Zero Weight, a blend of superfine merino wool and silk with a yarn count of 600—the finest silk quality in the world. The company is also moving forward with last year’s Cool Effect, in which fine Australian
one-dimensional pieces of cloth into a three-dimensional garment worthy of the most discriminating clientele. The waistband, fly and belt loops on a pair of trousers can require more than 20 workers, and it takes the efforts of another 24 tailors to construct the sleeves of a jacket; nearly 190 sewers are involved in creating the body of a single jacket. Even the act of sewing a simple buttonhole “can take an eternity of careful cutting and stitching,” says Zegna. Once the fabric has been cut, corresponding pieces are carefully
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wool is finished to enable dark fabrics to reflect heat like lightcolored ones. The result: a cloth that keeps the wearer 10 degrees cooler than if he were wearing an untreated fabric. “Fabric represents Zegna’s heritage and it’s the primary focus of our innovation,” says Anna Zegna, noting that the brand offers more than 700 cloth options, including 200 new fabrics each season, as part of its made-to-measure suit service. Over the course of the company’s 100-year history, “Zegna has invented over 20 unique and innovative fabrics in various colors, patterns and textures, which have become staples of our collection.”
bundled and passed down to the tailors and sewers to construct the garment, which can take as long as four days to wind its way through the 110-step production cycle. Upon completion each suit undergoes an arduous pressing process performed by dozens of workers: six to press the slacks and another 22 to press and hand-iron the jacket before it receives its final inspection. If the finished garment meets the company’s lofty standards, it is literally given the Zegna seal of approval as the signature logo is sewn in place.
footwear
IF THE SHOE FITS.... AURI FOOTWEAR HITS THE STREETS.
Finding a high-quality shoe that’s fashionable without being trendy—and that actually feels great all day—seems elusive, at best. Enter AURI, the contemporary footwear brand headquartered in Southern California. Auri presents a collection of men’s fashionable dress, sport and casual footwear that is found in some of the finest retailers across the U.S. Auri’s design lab is based in the coastal town of Laguna Beach, and its design team has perfected and patented their exclusive W*RKS™ technology, which helps cushion each step and supports the foot with advanced designs and materials. The advantage is completely hidden, but immediately felt and always appreciated. The brand offers three collections: a dress group of streamlined styles with classic lines, contemporary details and a European fit; the casual collection, which is denim friendly and designed with relaxed styling for a more laidback feel; and the sport collection, which is a sportswear designed collection with supple Italian leathers and fine stitched details. Each of the collections uses premium Italian leathers that are hand-burnished or polished to a refined finish, and all incorporate moisture wicking linings and leatherwrapped anatomical foot beds. Auri was recently approached by Robert Graham brand founder Robert Stock, who, after wearing a pair of Auri, selected the design team headed by Marc Scepi to design and produce the Robert Graham footwear collection, which will debut for fall 2012. The brand’s W*rks ™ technologies will be utilized across the entire Robert Graham collection. Handcrafted footwear with intricate stitchwork, burnished leathers and leather wrapped linings makes for a great look and a great wear experience for anyone looking for contemporary classic footwear.
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SAMUELSOHN:
NEVER COMPROMISE OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
ounded in 1923, Samuelsohn is a Montreal-based clothing company with a reputation for excellence based on fine tailoring, luxury fabrics, unusual attention to detail and modern style. For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring means fully-basted canvas construction: there is no glue in the interlinings of their suits, so that the garment maintains its shape, fit and comfort even after repeated cleanings. Their luxury fabrics are from the best mills in Italy and England, featuring cashmere, camel hair, superfine wools, Pima cotton, Italian silk and precious fibers like vicuna and yangir. Hand-tailored details include Bemberg linings, corozo or horn buttons, silk threads and labels, and Italian cotton pocketing. But perhaps Samuelsohn’s real secret weapon is its designer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grew up working for his family’s clothing company in Montreal before launching his own in the late 1990s. Respected as one of the most talented designers in the industry, he’s also known for his dapper per-
sonal style. Here, we speak with him about tailored clothing, and about what makes a well-dressed man.
What’s so special about a Samuelsohn suit? It’s about hand-craftsmanship: each suit takes six and a half hours of labor, more than many of the well-known designer brands that are almost twice the price.
Are they made totally by hand? No. If we could automate it all, we would. But there are several processes a machine can’t duplicate: the handbasting, the handsewn armholes, the shoulder. Certain steps can be automated and you won’t see the difference, but others cannot. Most importantly, technol-
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Samuelsohn designer Arnold Brant Silverstone
ogy has not been able to duplicate a full canvas garment. Cheaper suits look okay on a hanger since the shape comes from pressing. But after dry cleaning, that shape is gone.
Your suits are known for a certain “expression”—what does this mean? It means the garments are not flat: there’s a certain dimension, a softness, a sexiness. After all, the human body is not flat, so a welltailored suit should also have shape and dimension.
What should guys look for when buying a suit? The most important thing is fit: when you put on the garment, it should make you look better. A well-tailored suit hides myriad imperfections and moves with you. The shoulders should be on you, not out to there. Today, men are wearing suits closer to the body, but that shouldn’t mean you lose comfort. It’s like driving a great sports car and really feeling the road. When you wear a quality suit, it moves with you.
How can guys look elegant when they’re not wearing suits? The biggest problem is when men equate casual with not caring, with
Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant, George Clooney… However casual the look, it was well thought-out, not thrown together, reflecting their personal style.
What are the key items a man should have for spring/summer 2012? 1) A great summer suit, maybe a tropical wool in British tan or dove gray. 2) A performance blazer or suit, either with high-twist yarns or some Lycra. Most guys these days are traveling or on the move but there’s no reason not to look crisp… 3) A cool outerwear piece: something reversible or with interior pockets or truly transitional and multi-functional. 4) A soft coat. We’re famous for ours: they look tailored but weigh next to nothing.
What’s the secret of success for a clothing manufacturer? Passion! I’ve been doing this for more than 20 years; I inherited the passion from my parents. But in addition to passion, one needs a spirit of innovation. We’re on top of the latest fabrics, fits, technologies. We’re always pushing the envelope, never satisfied with the status quo. We want the customer to say “WOW!” every time he puts on one of our garments. That’s my passion, and my mission.
CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE. throwing on jeans and a T-shirt. The best-dressed men put thought into dressing: casual might mean beautifully tailored cotton pants and a soft jacket or a lightweight knit cashmere sweater or a cool reversible outerwear piece. Think back to the best-dressed men over the decades: The Rat Pack, James
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How would you describe your own personal style? I like to look contemporary: not blending in with the crowd but not blatantly standing out. I like clothing that’s special, with the focus on fit, quality and elegance. That’s the way I like to dress and the kind of clothing I love to design!
HUDSONJEANS.COM
GARYS ISLAND SHOP-IN-SHOP FEATURING Reyn Spooner, Nat Nast, Tommy Bahama, Tori Richard, Kahala, Bills Khakis, Thomas Dean, True Grit, OluKai, Sperry, Maui Jim and more!
GARYS FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH 949.759.1622 www.garysonline.com
retail environment, how do independent stores compete with stores many times their size? Here, we speak with a few star merchants in the Forum store group (a coalition of America’s top specialty apparel stores) to learn how they do it. Theorizes John Malouf of Malouf’s in Lubbock, Texas: “We’ve survived by featuring only the best product in each category, and by teaching customers how great they can look in the right clothes.” Adds John Braeger of Garys in Newport Beach, California, “Our secret is buyers who live in the community so they really know their customers’ interests, tastes and lifestyles…” Braeger points out that independents are more willing to take risks than stores that are publicly owned. “We buy smaller quantities with more selection, so you’re less likely to see someone in town wearing the same thing. Our goal is to please customers, not shareholders…” What’s more, independent merchants often buy designer brands differently than the big stores, working personally with the designers to develop exclusives and fine-tune assortments.
NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTED SPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Explains Bob White of Hubert White in Minneapolis, “Our advantage is knowing who we’re buying for and combining that knowledge with trends in the market.” Obviously top merchants travel far and wide to find exclusive product: many take eight to 10 trips a year. Says Malouf, “We travel regularly to NYC, Dallas, Vegas and Italy, where we work directly with the designers. To me, designing beautiful clothes is analogous to an artist who paints or a musician who
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composes: it’s creating something of beauty and lasting value.” On a more pragmatic note, Wally Naymon from Kilgore Trout in Cleveland points out that by shopping at locally owned specialty stores rather than national chains, 80 percent of the money spent stays in the community. Andrisen Morton in Denver, Colorado emphasizes service. Says co-owner Craig Andrisen, “Employees who are respected, rewarded and well cared for treat their customers the same way.” Adds his business partner Dave Morton, “Our philosophy of business is simple: ‘Never say no, always say yes, then go figure it out.’ Exceptional service is always the ultimate goal.” Sums up Bob Mitchell of Mitchells, Richards, Marsh’s and Wilkes Bashford: “Our personalized approach to everything we do, from buying to marketing to service, allows us to give customers more without costing them more.”
GETTY 1 ELDER GALVÃO
retailing IN TODAY’S HIGHLY COMPETITIVE
THE SOUL OF A MERCHANT
SPRING 2012
S C OT T BA R B E R . C O M
denim
ATTENTION-GRABBING
STYLE
AG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI HO ISN’T SEARCHING for the perfect jeans, a pair that is both comfortable and sexy? Seemingly impossible standards for most brands to live up to… but AG isn’t most brands. Mixing that form-fitting silhouette with a lived-in feel is what makes AG denim the hottest on the market. The company launched in 2001 as a collaboration between Mr. Yul Ku and “the Godfather of denim” Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns 30-year-old Koos Manufacturing, one of the world’s premier denim factories; Goldschmied co-founded Diesel.) The two parted amicably in 2004 and the brand has been on the up-and-up since Ku’s son Sam became design director in 2006. AG manufactures everything in
its own 400,000 sq. ft. facility in Los Angeles, employing over 1,000 workers. The amount of time and personal attention that goes into each pair is astonishing: from hand-sanding and oven-baked whiskering to new eco-friendly laser technologies that help create that perfect vintage look. “We control every step because we’re a vertical operation,” Sam says. “We don’t take shortcuts, or try to save a few cents here and there with cheaper fabrics or trims. We really care about the product and want our consumer to look and feel good in our jeans.” Premium fabrics are sourced from Japan and Italy, many of which are exclusive to the brand. Recently, AG has also impressed
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with its non-denim styles, like super-soft pima cotton cords. In denim and other fabrics alike, Sam highlights colored bottoms as one of spring 2012’s hottest trends. Men should try muted colors like sand and charcoal, while women can experiment with a more diverse range: dusty shades of rose and gray, and saturated brights like electric blue and raspberry. The brand has garnered frequent press attention thanks to its many celebrity devotees, including power couple Gavin Rossdale and Gwen Stefani, and Academy Award nominee Anne Hathaway. But Sam gets most excited when he sees someone—anyone—walking down the street in a pair he designed. “For me, that will never get old!”
The most revered royalty of ancient Hawaii - the Ali’i - are honored and celebrated in this limited edition collection. Each pair is meticulously handcrafted with the highest quality leathers and etched with a traditional phrase of community strength; Pupukahi i holomua - Unite in order to progress. We’d like to think that if the Ali’i were still walking the islands today, they’d be walking in these. Learn more about the Ali’i Collection at olukai.com/alii
HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING
SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT
ASBA
PHOTOGRAPHY
a walk in the walled city
The ancient Moroccan city of Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, and location for the film Lawrence of Arabia – provides the perfect canvas for the bold, romantic and timeless looks of spring 2012...
citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink
THIS PAGE
Dress by Lela Rose. OPPOSITE PAGE
Shirt by Isaia,
romantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes
YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...
The Jacket THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN
Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket. A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential finishing touch for a put-together casual look.
Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfinished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and
styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fiber” designed to beat the heat, a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis—even your favorite shorts!
MEMORABLE!
JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE AND ELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUAL EVERYDAY LOOK
FORGETTABLE
SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON OR CASHMERE...A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCE AND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.
MEMORABLE!
DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF THINKING THAT JUST BECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEED A JACKET!
FORGETTABLE
The Ermenegildo Zegna 10-Pocket Blazer
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THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC. STYLING: WENDY MCNETT FOR AGENT OLIVER. GROOMING: TREVOR BOWDEN FOR BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI
JACKET NOT OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAY BE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.
ceo style
The Maccioni family in 1980, New York City
Dinner WITH FRIENDS FOR LE CIRQUE’S MARCO MACCIONI, IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
“I’M A JEANS AND WHITE SHIRT GUY,” says Marco Maccioni, director of operations and co-owner of Maccioni Group, a restaurant mini-empire that includes Le Cirque and Osteria del Circo restaurants in New York City, Las Vegas, the Dominican Republic and India, along with a half-dozen related ventures. At the moment, it’s a little difficult to believe Maccioni’s casualguy assertion. We’re seated at the wine bar in Le Cirque NY, the business’s Upper East Side flagship, and he’s dressed to the nines in
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custom Italian suiting, his stillyouthful feathered hair perfectly tousled. Martha Stewart and New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg walk past, heading to an event in the restaurant’s private dining room. Maccioni excuses himself only briefly to greet and make small talk. He returns quickly, skilled as he is at the art of immaculate hosting, ensuring each guest (including this author) feels like the only VIP in the room. “When I got married last year [to singer Sabrina Wender], we did it at the beach, because it was as opposite as possible to what I wear here every day,” he says. Marco Maccioni is the middle brother of three in this tight-knit family business, which also includes their mother, Egi, and father Sirio, founder of the original Le Cirque in 1974. “We each bring different characteristics,” says
Left: Marco Maccioni, posing outside Le Cirque, is the picture of effortless style.
Maccioni as we sip our Forest Breeze cocktails (muddled blackberries, white Fragoli, vodka and Chambord) crafted by Bill Ghodbane, Le Cirque’s bar manager of 15 years. “I’m more the wine and dining aficionado [he works closely with the chefs and sommeliers at Le Cirque NY and Circo]. My younger brother [Mauro] is the palate and my oldest [Mario] is the strategist and organizational cheerleader. And my father is omnipresent.” Le Cirque NY is in its third space in 37 years, this time in the sweeping Bloomberg Tower with a view onto the central courtyard. Maccioni dubs it “Le Cirque 3.0.”
a well-known Florentine designer and tie maker, is indeed an elegant fusion of contemporary and classic, with trim lines and an understated pinstripe pattern. “I guess my personal style is that... I’m Italian. My family is from Tuscany. In Italy, you go shopping with your mother. She teaches you to rub the fabric, feel the lapel, and learn to appreciate fine craftsmanship. I’m more relaxed and jovial, but at Circo, I’m in uniform. The good news is, I get to pick my uniform.” Osteria del Circo, with outposts in New York and Las Vegas, adorned with European circus themes, is the family’s other restaurant brand. It is classically,
best part.” He rises to greet Bill Cunningham, the bicycle-riding New York Times fashion photographer about whom a documentary was made last year. Out comes the next dish: a pairing of Chef Hopson’s lobster risotto and Ghodbane’s Champagne Royale cocktail, featuring a sugared rose petal. The concept of creative cocktails—beyond, say, a Martini or Old Fashioned—at white tablecloth restaurants is a new-again trend in Manhattan and a sign of the times. Le Cirque’s wine bar is also “new” with the six-year-old 3.0. “Le Cirque wasn’t the same in 1974, 1984 or 1994, and that’s not counting the moves,” says
“THERE’S A REASON A CLASSIC IS RESPECTED. THOUGH IT MIGHT NOT BE FUCHSIA OR WHATEVER TODAY’S COLOR IS, YOU STILL LOOK GOOD IN IT.”—MARCO MACCIONI Over the years, it has been a proving ground for many of the city’s best chefs/restaurateurs, including Daniel Boulud and Alain Allegretti, and is currently presided over by Olivier Reginensi, who took over in January for longtime head chef Craig Hopson. The food is French, but with Italian and contemporary flairs. Like the space itself, the cuisine and festive atmosphere have changed with each location, while the aura, the heart of the restaurant, remains unchanged. “I parallel it to a classic suit or shoe,” says Maccioni. “There’s a reason it’s a classic and respected. Though it might not be fuchsia or whatever today’s color is, you still look good in it. One of the reasons for Le Cirque’s long-term success is knowing how to do your thing, but not using everything in your playbook at once.” The suit he’s wearing, crafted by
unapologetically, Italian. A quote from Marco on the restaurant’s website explains it well: “When we opened Circo in 1996, our business plan was simple. Dad’s hospitality, Mom’s food, run by the sons.” Circo was Marco’s introduction to the business end of things, following stints working for bars and restaurants in Paris and the Champagne district. With the expansion of Le Cirque and Circo around the world (the New Delhi venture in the posh Leelah Palace is the brand’s latest), along with the placement of Le Cirque menus on 15 Holland America cruises, the Maccioni family seems to be everywhere these days. “My father started when he was 40, and grew with his customers. I started when I was 38, and I hope to do the same thing,” says Maccioni. “Every new venture has new friends to make, which is the
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Maccioni. “It was a very purposeful decision to make the restaurants different from each other. But it’s important to do what you know how to do within the changing times, without losing your identity.” Part of that identity is, it’s worth repeating, family. On another visit during lunch, all three brothers— Mauro, Marco and Mario—swing by to say hello. Unlike at, say, a Batali, Puck or Flay property, the odds are pretty good at the New York restaurants (and often in Las Vegas) that a Maccioni will wander past and ask after your meal. Marco lives within a couple of blocks of Circo. “My brothers are here, or I’m here,” he says. “We are doing other things, of course, but we still have the oversight at the restaurants. If that wasn’t important to us, we’d own a million restaurants. But it’s a tradition we follow and keep.”
Taking photos at rock concerts started out as a hobby for NYC teenager Neal Preston. But with his unique ability to capture not just the celebrity but the spirit and humanity within, Preston ultimately became one of the preeminent rock star photographers of our era, traveling around the world with famous musicians for the past four decades. His work has appeared on covers and features in major magazines (Time, People, Rolling Stone), newspapers, movies and on count-
less record and CD covers. We caught up with Preston at a recent photography exhibit at The Morrison Hotel Gallery in SoHo.
What life lessons have you learned from traveling around the world with rock stars? I’ve learned that music touches everyone in a very deep and spiritual place, as it does me. If you take someone’s music away—and it doesn’t matter if it’s rock, hip-hop, classical, whatever—you are ripping out his soul…
Top left: Stevie Nicks at home in Venice, California, 1981 Left: Freddie Mercury at London’s Wembley Stadium, 1986
ALL IMAGES BY NEAL PRESTON
photography
STAR
PHOTOGRAPHER NEAL PRESTON ON CAPTURING MOMENTS IN TIME. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
I’ve also learned that the greatest luxury in life is to be able to take private rather than commercial flights!
How do you manage to get these very wired guys to relax? How do you capture them in ordinary moments?
Jimmy Page, onstage during Led Zeppelin’s 1977 U.S. tour
It’s all about being a fly on the wall. Mind you, that’s not something that can be taught; you just have to go by instinct. There is a real finesse involved with figuring out when to remain invisible and when not to. If you start to act like you’re the fifth member of Led Zeppelin, you’re gonna have a big fat problem…
What was the strangest moment you ever experienced at a rock concert? There are many. But having Peter Grant (Led Zeppelin’s legendary manager) tell me to actually go onstage during a show and stand in front of the drummer (John Bonham) and shoot him was pretty bizarre.
What do you consider your greatest accomplishment? Many people have told me that they can hear the music when they look at my photos.
Who do you most admire? I’m not sure “admiration” would be the right description, but the two musicians who have influenced my life are Pete Townshend and John Lennon. Pete for the honesty in his writing, his creativity, his tortured genius, his ability to look at life from multiple points of view… I could go on and on. And John Lennon, for showing me what “cool” really is, for giving me the greatest soundtrack to life a teenager could have, and for allowing me to realize that music was, and always will be, in my DNA.
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speed
LEAPING CAT
A RACECAR DRIVER TESTS OUT THE NEW JAGUAR XJL. BY DAVID A. ROSE
s a motorsports enthusiast and driver, I’ve long been obsessed with the Jaguar marque. I’ve owned several over the years and love the look, smell and sound unique to the old Jags. Would the new XJL inspire the same passion? I was able to make the comparison at Motorcars Incorporated in Plainville, CT, where Dean Cusano sells primarily vintage Jags. Among his offerings: a 1958 Jaguar XK 150. It was easy to see why these old Jaguars became so popular in their day: dramatic sculpted lines, expressive headlights, a long hood line, a dignified grill, and one of the most powerful engines of its time. The new Jaguar XJL displays similar characteristics, with an
even more graceful stance. With a 5-liter overhead cam and 4 valves per cylinder V8 engine, this supercharged Jaguar produces an amazing 510 horsepower. Its 6-speed automatic transmission can also be shifted manually using the shifting paddles on the steering wheel, similar to those found in modern Formula 1 racecars. Connecticut and Jaguar have another connection: the town of Thompson is home to America’s original purpose-built race circuit. Thompson Raceway began operating in 1940 as a 5/8-mile paved oval track. In 1952, sports cars like the Jaguar XK 120 began racing on what had become a 1.5 mile proper road race circuit on land owned by John Hoenig. For years
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Thompson Raceway was the home track of racers in the Sports Car Club of America’s northeast division, but the last race held on the course was in 1977. The track is still operated by the Hoenig family; John Hoenig’s great grandson Jonathan, now marketing manager, plans to one day reconstruct the course and bring road racing back to northeast Connecticut. Before my time with the car was up, I took the supercharged Jaguar around the time-honored oval track for a few hot laps. The Jaguar was at home on the playground of its ancestors. I was thrilled to feel this luxury road car instantly transform itself into a racecar, as I thought of the legendary drivers who preceded me at this iconic speedway.
escapes
Star
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
TREATMENT
THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friends
gathering around a campfire, slumbering under the stars—appeals to almost everyone. Sleeping on the ground, dirt-speckled food and primitive bathroom facilities do
not. Fortunately, enterprising camp creators are removing much of the uncomfortable stuff from a stay in the great outdoors, preserving all the good and adding even more incentives. Glam camping, or
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“glamping” as it’s now called, has spread around the world. The Clayoquot Wilderness Resort is located on the west coast of Vancouver Island (reachable by boat or sea plane). Here,
Below: Sleep under the stars in the Sabi Sands region of South Africa.
IMAGE COPYRIGHT © ABERCROMBIE & KENT
Above, left: Abercrombie & Kent’s Sahara Desert Camp Right: The Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia
The Resort at Paws Up, located on 37,000 acres along the Blackfoot River near Missoula, Montana, offers a range of yearround activities: 120 miles of designated hiking and riding trails, fly-fishing, whitewater rafting, cross-country skiing, and more. Recently, Paws Up has opened their most luxurious tented accommodations ever. Set on a bluff overlooking the Blackfoot River and Elk Creek, Pinnacle Camp has one- and two-bedroom suites with climate controls, jetted tubs in the ensuite bathrooms and
decks with river views. There’s even a personal “camping butler.” If you want to go off by yourself, boutique adventure company Global Expeditions, Inc. offers private custom excursions. This company doesn’t have a fixed location or standard pack-
cious Caidal tent. Then there’s Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia, located in Tatai, next to the Thai border between Bangkok and Phnom Penh. There are 12 tented villas, each with a flat-screen TV, mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trek
age. Instead, an area is leased exclusively for you and a luxury tented camp is created. Global will fly in a chef from anywhere in the world, and cater to your whims with yoga masters, masseurs and estheticians, or authorities on geology, ecology and astronomy. For stargazers, there are several other options. Abercrombie & Kent will arrange for you to explore the mysterious Sahara Desert. After a tour of the area (including Berber villages and the Atlas Mountains) guests set off across the desert for a four-wheel drive to the camp, situated in a remote area overlooking the Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s a sunset camel ride through the Sahara’s dazzling expanse, followed by a Moroccan dinner, traditional entertainment and a spa-
into the jungle to explore one of the world’s largest rainforests, kayak down river, fish, or perhaps stop off for a natural hydro massage in the Tatai Waterfalls. At the end of the day, you can relax on your private sun-lounger balcony for a cocktail. If you want to get away from (and above) it all, Lion World Tours, specializing in trips to southern and eastern Africa, can arrange for you to stay in a treehouse. In the Sabi Sands region of South Africa, an astonishing bedroom has been built around a majestic 500-yearold Leadwood tree. Guests are taken to the camp at sunset to gaze out over the plains while enjoying Champagne and local delicacies, before turning in on lavish linens in complete privacy… and, naturally, sleeping under the stars.
IMAGE BY FLOATING ECO-LODGE CAMBODIA
guests who love the great outdoors can hike, fish, or climb to a treetop observation platform to view one of the oldest temperate rainforests in the world, then “fly” over the forest via a 285 meterlong flight line. For those who prefer less strenuous exploits, Clayoquot offers wine tastings, spa tents and library tents with an internet café. And the accommodations will surely attract the luxury-loving camper. Tents reminiscent of those used in 19th-century great safari camps have king beds with down duvets, antique dressers and tea tables, Persian carpets, working bathrooms and heated floors. There are even bathrobes and turndown service.
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T H E
U L T I M A T E
T R O U S E R
MUCH ADO ABOUT ANKLES
MLB PLAYERS ARE SHOWING SOME LEG. BY WILLIAM N. WALLACE
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READERS PLEASE NOTE: An important fashion trend is emerging, and from Major League Baseball, of all conservative places! It concerns stockings. No, not the Cincinnati Red Stockings, the first American baseball team whose players got paid to play (1869). Nor sox as in Boston Red Sox or Chicago White Sox. This discernible drift is to socks that come up to the knees—knee socks—and thus eschew those long loose pants now standard in MLB. (Some pant legs these days are so elongated it’s a wonder players don’t trip and fall on the way to home plate!) Knee socks in two styles, plain and stirrup, are trending, I sense, perhaps because baseball players have little choice in what they wear to games. The essence of a uniform is that all dress the same, which means the cap, the shirt and the pants are standard issue. In other words, all parts of the baseball uniform are preordained... except for the socks.
New York Yankees Curtis Granderson, left, and Derek Jeter celebrate as they score on August 19th, 2011, in Minneapolis.
IMAGE BY MICHAEL POLIZA PHOTOGRAPHY
AP PHOTO/JIM MONE
sports
“WE’RE SEEING THE BEGINNING OF A SHIFT BACK TO THE OLD DAYS, WITH BOTH SOLID HIGH SOCKS AND STIRRUPS.”
ROB ERTGR AHAM .US
KNOWLEDGE 路 WISDOM 路 TRUTH
Curtis Granderson, the New York Yankees’ star center fielder, wears knee socks in dark Yankee blue. So does teammate Alex “ARod” Rodriguez, the multi-million dollar third baseman. Yet like the vast majority of MLB players, teammate Derek Jeter does not. The fashion iconoclasts are attention grabbers. In casually watching last year’s World Series, my wife picked up on the stockings of Octavio Dotel, one of many relief
Soon the players were wearing two pairs of socks: the thin white underneath called “the sanitary” and a colored one on top. That double layer made for a snug fit in the shoe, so the colored toes and heels were cut away. The effect was a stirrup sock, a fashion feature that endured for decades. These stockings were worn in various display colors to identify the teams: brown for the St. Louis Browns for example. Babe Ruth
exceptions. Ultimately, longer pants all but eliminated the knee sock as uniform. Something was definitely lost, says Tyler Kepner, the Times’ lead baseball columnist. “I would love to see players show more socks or stirrups and express themselves within the confines of the uniform,” he told me. “But most go with the modern trend of wearing pants to the ankles or lower, showing no sock at all.’’ As with many a fashion trend,
“I WOULD LOVE TO SEE PLAYERS SHOW MORE SOCKS OR STIRRUPS AND EXPRESS THEMSELVES WITHIN THE CONFINES OF THE UNIFORM.” —TYLER KEPNER, THE NEW YORK TIMES pitchers for the winning St. Louis Cardinals. He was wearing bold stirrup socks—red ones with blue and white stripes. Dotel’s choice of legwear under the bright lights of the World Series brought back the past. Reader, surely you have heard of Napoleon Lajoie? Nap Lajoie was so good that the team he played for was named after him: the Cleveland Napoleons of the newly founded American League in the early 1900s. In that era, players wore wool socks that pulled up over the knee. During a 1905 game, Lajoie was spiked by a rival shortstop named O’Leary when Nap came sliding into second base. O’Leary’s shoe spikes cut through Lajoie’s stocking and into his leg, drawing blood. The Boston Globe later reported that Lajoie had come down with “blood poisoning” because the dye from the stocking got into the wound. It was an unlikely tale, but nevertheless the next season, Cleveland players wore pure white stockings to avoid blood poisoning (according to the Globe).
wore green socks when he was with the Brooklyn Dodgers. Ruth? The great Yankees All-Star was never a Dodger, you’re thinking. But yes, he was: as the first base coach in 1937, in a publicity stunt to sell tickets. And the uniform trim was green that season but soon returned to Dodger blue. The stirrup sock, universal by 1910, acquired tweaks in its evolution. More and more of the outer was cut away, leaving in some cases just a thin strip of identifying color pulled over the white stocking underneath. We know a lot about the subject thanks to baseball historian Mark Okkonen, author of Baseball Uniforms of the 20th Century. That big picture book was published in 1991 as the pants trend continued to go south of the kneecap. Okkonen chose to ignore it. Earlier, Carl Hubbell, ace pitcher for the New York Giants in the 1930s, had rolled his pants well below the knee. So did Ted Williams, the Red Sox slugger of the 1940s and ’50s. But they were
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it’s hard to grasp what forces lowered pant legs. My theory is that once the big stars—like Barry Bonds as he came on in the ’80s— dropped their pants, others followed like sheep. But now we’re seeing the beginning of a shift back to the old days, with both solid high socks and stirrups. Said Kepner, “Guys like ARod, Ian Kinsler (Texas Rangers), Hunter Pence (Philadelphia Phillies) and Dave Robertson (New York Yankees) don’t wear stirrups like they did in the old days. But they do display a lot of their standard, colored socks. “A few guys do prefer actual stirrups, but very few: Juan Pierre (Chicago White Sox), Ubaldo Jimenez (Cleveland Indians), Octavio Dotel (St. Louis Cardinals), Josh Outman (Oakland) and Reed Johnson (Chicago Cubs) come to mind. But mostly it’s the plain high socks. Too bad.” William N. Wallace is a retired sportswriter for The New York Times, working from Westport, CT.
IF THE CAR IN YOUR DREAMS IS NOT THE CAR IN YOUR GARAGE
LET’S TALK!
THE NEW 2012 C-CLASS COUPE!
EXPERIENCE THE FLETCHER JONES DIFFERENCE.
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spirits
CASK-STRENGTH SPIRITS MOVE BEYOND WHISKY. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
atered down" liquor is a loaded term, implying a less-thanpremium product. The fact is, almost all hard spirits are watered down before you buy them. By U.S. law, most hard spirits must have a minimum ABV (alcohol by volume) of 40%, or 80 proof (liqueurs, sweetened, infused alcoholic beverages, can have a much lower ABV). Since booze usually comes off the still between 110 and 190 proof, water is added to bring it down to our acquired palate and maximize the base product. The concept of ‘cask-strength’ spirits—that is, bottling the product exactly as drawn from a maturing barrel—has only recently gained cachet, particularly among Scotch whisky drinkers. These days, there are cask-strength releases of Laphroig, The Glenlivet, The Macallan and so on, targeting the malt whisky aficionado. "Caskstrength whiskies generally have a much more intense flavor profile," says Michael J. Neff, co-owner of the whisky-driven Manhattan bar Ward III. "It allows a broader range of experience.” ‘Cask strength,’ by convention, is "the natural strength of the spirit, unadulterated by water, and is
dependent on maturation conditions," says Iain McCallum, master blender for The Bowmore, Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch whiskies. As a result, the final proof usually differs from bottling to bottling, so the latest release of Auchentoshan Valinch might have an ABV of 57.5%, while Bowmore's 10year Tempest Batch 2 is 56%. Whisky and bourbon aren't the only aged spirits drinkers are sipping straight from the barrel these days: • DeLeon Tequila, a relatively new luxury label, released its extra-aged expression last fall at cask strength. The $250 tequila, aged 51 months, comes in at 51 proof. Founder Brent Hocking is confident in the purity of his product. "At cask strength, you can taste flaws or additives," he says. • Because Cognac is generally a blend of dozens of barrels, and heavily regulated by French law, it's rare to find cask-strength expressions in America. So when Pierre Ferrand Cognac released its $600 limited edition 1972 Cask Strength a couple of years ago, it was a big deal. And
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when it's gone, it's gone. • Pisco, a white, brandy-like grape spirit, is gaining popularity in North America. According to Johnny Schuler, founder of the new premium label Pisco Porton, "in Peru, pisco is distilled to strength, with no water, oak or anything else added." This produces a clean spirit at about 86 proof. "It's an honest drink," Schuler says.
DeLeon 51, a new extra-aged tequila, is one of the only modern tequilas bottled at its full cask strength. Expect other brands to follow.
IMAGE DELEON TEQUILA
“W
ROLL OUT THE BARREL
SPRING 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.
Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.
end page
PULL IT TOGETHER!
THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE DETAILS. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER ■
Socks should match the trouser, rather than the shoe. (But a little whimsy on the feet is acceptable, as is going sans socks in summer.) ■ More than anything else you wear, your tie expresses your personality. Make sure it’s current (three and a half inches, narrower if you’re a rock star) and make sure it’s interesting. Even casual outfits, including jeans, go up a notch with the right neckwear: try a knit or linen tie, or a subtle conversational. ■ Keep your eyewear current. Bring along a friend when you select new glasses and make sure the frames complement your face shape and features. (Bold frames are of the moment, but only if they look good on you!) ■ A handkerchief in your sportcoat pocket adds a touch of elegance. So there it is. Without threatening my masculinity, the simple act of coordinating a suede belt with my suede bucks has instilled newfound confidence. And now that I’m taking a few minutes each morning to accessorize, my life is changing for the better. My girlfriend seems happy to see me. My colleagues are showing respect. Who knew life could be so simple? My patronizing friend even picked up the check at our most recent lunch outing.
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ZEGNA
row up,” my fashionable friend sneered over his ceviche, with one eyebrow raised. “You look disheveled, kind of a mess…” “What are you talking about?” I demanded, feeling very sartorially appropriate in trim khakis and a crisp blue oxford shirt. “Your outfit!” he dispatched with disdain. “It’s dull and uncoordinated. It makes you look dated. And clueless!” Requesting specifics about my fashion transgressions, I was told that, for one thing, my belt and shoes had nothing in common. “The belt’s at my waist, the shoes are on my feet: what do they need in common?” I wondered aloud. But after a quick self-assessment, I had to admit that my friend was right. Despite owning plenty of quality clothes, some with designer labels, I never seemed to look quite right. Clearly, my image was far less cool and far more boring than most of the guys in that trendy restaurant. Time to consult the experts. Here’s what I learned: ■ When it comes to accessories, buy the best you can afford. When the accessories look expensive, the outfit looks expensive. ■ The belt and shoes should be as close as possible in color, texture and material.
速
GARYS FORUM SPRING 2012