Garys by Fashion Forum Magazine

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2014

INSIDE LOOK: SUIT SECRETS REVEALED LIFE IN THE FAST LANE: ZEGNA DESIGNS FOR MASERATI

THE LUXE LIFE

CONTENTS

GARYS Fashion Island, Newport Beach 949-759-1622

Del Mar Plaza, Del Mar 858-794-0740 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

50 56 58 60

6 8 12 38 44 46 52 62 64

Anniversary: The Soundtrack of Our Lives Arts: Swing Time History: Honoring Arlington Fitness: High Energy

FASHION 16 18 20 24 32

Factory Tour: AG Jeans Profile: To Boot Tailoring: Inside a Suit The Luxe Life 5 Fall Essentials

Welcome Letter Ask Forum The Fashion Forum Travel: Magic Kingdom Wheels: Designed to Thrill Food: Designers Dish World Scene At Your Service End Page: My Father, Myself

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

WELCOME TO THE FALL 2014 ISSUE OF GARYS FORUM MAGAZINE CHANGE YOUR LOOK, CHANGE YOUR OUTLOOK! The big news: men’s fashion is having a moment! Never before have there been so many amazing options for men: from soft sportcoats in fine wools and cashmeres to cool sport shirts, the latest in denim, artisan-inspired wrist jewelry and great leather bags, fun socks, slim five-pocket pants in cottons and brushed twills, and of course the new fitted suits (to be worn with slimmer shirts and narrower ties). If you’re still wearing four-inch ties, billowy shirts or suits with big shoulders and pleated trousers, please take a look at our recently arrived offerings from all the top designers. We guarantee your updated look will inspire a whole new outlook.

In this issue of Forum magazine, we showcase the most essential fall ’14 items and how to wear them. We answer your fashion questions, look inside a suit, take you through an exceptional denim factory and profile a fabulous shoe company. In our luxury lifestyle pages, we take you on an exotic trip to Bhutan, celebrate 50 years of The Beatles and Zegna’s cool collaboration with Maserati. We honor our fallen heroes at Arlington Cemetery, introduce you to a Depression-era artist who’s finally getting his due, highlight the newest fitness craze, talk to our favorite fashion designers about food, and much more! We hope you enjoy this issue of our magazine. We look forward to seeing you in our SIGN UP AT GARYS.COM OR newly renovated store so we can show you the great clothes and accessories that we’re so excited about here at GARYS. LIKE US ON

FACEBOOK TO BE THE FIRST TO KNOW ABOUT SPECIAL OFFERS AND EVENTS.

With best wishes, John Braeger and the GARYS team

FALL 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Probably not. Although menswear is evolution rather than revolution, suits that are more than five years old, even from the best makers, will definitely look dated: trousers too long and baggy, jackets too roomy, shoulders too padded. Designers have gradually gone slimmer in suits, sportcoats and trousers, and fabrics have evolved so that today’s suits are more comfortable and travel-friendly than the old stuff in your closet. We’re betting you’ll find our fall ’14 suits so comfortable that you’ll choose to wear them in more casual settings, even when no suit is required.

Is it okay to text or email my sales associate when I have a wardrobe question? How can I maximize our relationship? Not only is it okay, but they would totally appreciate it! (Well maybe not at 3:00 a.m…) Our sales people have a wealth of information that can help you look your best every day. They can email you photos of new items as they arrive in store that will work with what you’ve already bought. They can inform you about the bestfitting jeans. They can help you

I see that a lot of my favorite brands have their own stores: do you carry the same styles that they do? Sometimes there’s crossover, but we try to customize our mix to the needs of our community. While fashion has become somewhat international, our buyers know their customers personally so it’s easy for them to fine-tune assortments to specific tastes and lifestyles. Another advantage of shopping an independent store: since we carry so many top brands, we can suggest how to mix your favorite pieces so you’re not dressed head-to-toe in a single designer. This type of brandblending adds creativity and personality to your look so you won’t see yourself coming and going. Stop by and we’ll show you how to do it!

COURTESY OF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Other than for weddings and special events, I don’t wear suits much these days. Is it okay to pull out what’s in my closet for occasional dress-up events?

match colors and patterns or figure out which tie to wear with which shirt collar. (For example, your new skinny tie is not likely to work with a cutaway collar shirt, but yes, you can wear the brown suede shoes with your gray suit!) They can also suggest the perfect gift, wrap it and send it without you needing to leave your desk. Never be afraid to contact your sales associate for any fashion-related issue: their passion for fine clothing is the reason they chose this career, and your trust in them is the ultimate compliment.

FRED LEIGHTON

#newlookof luxury

the FASHION forum PITTI PARTY

wice a year, the Tuscan city of Florence, Italy welcomes 1,050 exhibitors and more than 30,000 national and international fashion industry insiders to Pitti Uomo, a trade show like no other. Staged in a 16th-century fortress, Pitti is a place to see and be seen: a promenade affectionately known as Peacock Avenue is packed with men dressed to the nines, fervently followed by an equally impressive number of photographers from magazines and websites worldwide. Espresso is sipped in equal measure to bottles of Italian beer and the quintessential cocktail, an Aperol Spritz. At the most recent Pitti showcasing spring ’15 fashion, the world-renowned tenor Andrea Bocelli kicked the show off with an exclusive one-night performance with the Cameristi del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino that included an emotive rendition of Schubert’s Ave Maria. The next morning the Prime Minister of Italy officially opened the show, followed by a whirlwind of fashion shows and festas. These included a Gucci museum cocktail party, a Z Zegna performance replete with acrobats and models, an Eton garden party at the Grand Hotel Villa Medici, a Brunello Cucinelli dinner at Il Giardino Torrigiani and an Ermanno Scervino presentation at the Forte Belvedere (where Kim Kardashian and Kanye West held their nuptials) with guests including... Kanye West! Should you ever find yourself in Florence during this celebration of style, soak it all in. It’s one of the sartorial wonders of the — William Buckley world.

LOOKING GOOD What do women want? To answer the age-old question, we surveyed 100 women and asked them to prioritize what they notice first in terms of male appearance. Not surprisingly, trumped only by good grooming and a great smile, women pay attention to what guys wear. Clearly, good clothes speak volumes about a man, followed closely by (in order of priority) his eyes, his shoes and his watch. To the question “I would immediately fall in love with a guy wearing ___ because ___,” we got some terrific responses. A lot of women mentioned “nice shoes” because “they indicate good taste.” “A gorgeous sportcoat” because “it exudes confidence, charm and casual sophistication…” “A cashmere sweater” because “it shows he’s able to care for something delicate and valuable: today a sweater, tomorrow a woman…” “Great smelling aftershave or cologne...” “Upscale casual clothes” because “it shows he’s relaxed and comfortable with himself…” And perhaps our favorite: “Anything that looks like he put some thought into it!” Because “dressing well is an indicator of self-confidence and a display of respect for colleagues and friends. If he puts thought into his appearance, one can assume he’ll put thought into his work and his relationships…” Time to go shopping! — Nora McCarten

The Fashion Forum

SPRING ’15 FORECAST

BRIGHT EYED

ust because summer is over doesn’t mean you should ignore your eyewear. For men this fall, the Vision Council’s Eyecessorize industry report defines the major trends as simple, clean-cut square and circular shapes, colored lenses in standout shades of green and blue, and metallic and patterned accents on the bridge and arms. In addition, Eyecessorize also forecasts an increased popularity in colored frames that offer a welcome break from the standard black and tortoise options. These new takes on classic eyewear will keep you seeing the bright side all year long. — NoraMcCarten

We interviewed Sabine Le Chatelier, of Premiere Vision (the world’s leading fabric trade show) for her take on men’s spring fashion. Here’s what to expect when the weather warms up: “According to the top fabric mills, suiting fabrics will have a more casual feel for spring ’15, a trend that will influence all categories of menswear. Fabrics will feature more synthetics in the blend, creating a somewhat lustrous finish: not exactly shiny but technicalinspired in a contemporary way. Lighter colors are taking hold in suits and sportcoats: cool tones like pale grays and shades of blue. There’s also a strong linen trend in suits, but very sophisticated, a clear departure from the soft crinkled linens of yesterday. The new linens are blended with cotton or wool for a fresh modern look with a rustic touch. “In ties, expect more non-silk styles that reinforce the casual message. In sportswear, you’ll see new sophisticated knit tops in luxury yarns, fashioned into slim T-shirts and polos that work under a suit or sportcoat. And don’t be afraid to wear prints, even florals: these are what will separate the men from the boys…” — Karen Alberg Grossman

STYLISH READS 20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Apparel Ads by Jim Heimann and Alison A. Nieder is an eyecatching retrospective of the milestones that shaped the world’s style. Creative imagery of 400 fashion advertisements from the 1900s forms a timeline of the trendsetting looks that defined the century. With text in English, French and German, 20th Century Fashion documents the inception of revered brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein and follows their development as exemplified by their ads. As the years (and the book) progress, a fullpage visual captures the mood of each decade. The beauty and individuality of the advertisements display the overarching advancements in art, print, photography and clothing designs made in the last century. Men in This Town by Giuseppe Santamaria is a uniquely presented portrayal of the modern man’s sartorial style. Through interviews and observations, Santamaria allows us to get to know a variety of creatively dressed men in their natural habitats, from New York, London and Milan to Tokyo and Sydney. Candid street shots capture the eccentric and intriguing trends of each region, taking us on a journey across the globe to explore how each culture’s traditions impact the way men dress. The Glass of Fashion, a memoir by Cecil Beaton, shares a man’s muses, influences and encounters in the 1920s fashion world. As a portraitist and photographer of fashion’s top-notch names, Beaton became famous for his impeccable taste and discerning eye. He tells how his experiences with the luxurious likes of Dior and Chanel combined with his personal realities to sculpt his view on fashion and life. First published in 1954, The Glass of Fashion is back on the rack to inspire a new generation of fashionistas. — Louisa Blasier

P E R F O R M A N C E .

C O L L E C T I O N .

S O F T .

factory tour

We, along with other stores in the Forum Group, recently visited their state-of-the-art LA facility to gain some insight. In the beginning, AG owner Mr. Ku created, designed and engineered the technology-driven factory himself. To call him a perfectionist is an understatement: those who know him well say he’s a genius. A few examples: Ku recently replaced all AG washing machines in order to save significantly on water and electricity. The new machines use only 40 percent of the water and electricity of the old ones, while doubling capacity. The water purification system is so advanced that you can virtually drink the water! Sewing machines were reconfigured with special feeders so that the tension on the thread remains perfectly constant from beginning to end of the sew. Needles (angled so they never tear the fabric) are replaced daily, rather than weekly, which is the norm at other factories. An average pair of AG jeans is touched by 75 pairs of hands; aged jeans by 100. Fabric is allowed to rest for 24 hours after it’s rolled out (modern stretch fabrics need this recovery time); it’s then laser cut 40 layers high, rather than 100. These extra steps might not be immedi“AG’S EXCLUSIVE ately appreciated by the consumer, but TECHNOLOGY SERVES TO CREATE they ultimately make for a better-looking A BETTER PRODUCT, and more comfortable garment, not to mention a safer planet. AND A BETTER There are 25 artists in AG’s design PLANET.” department, under the direction of Mark Wiesmayr. “The fabric is precursor to the jean,” he tells the group. “A good 90 percent of our fabrics are proprietary that we develop with the mills, mostly in Japan. (Our inventory here is 1.2 million yards.) We use some American denim and only the finest components like Italian hardware and findings and YKK zippers, manufactured to the exact size and fit of each jean model.” Wiesmayr lists three criteria consumers use to judge jeans before purchasing: the look, the touch and the fit. “Then for repeat purchases, they judge by performance after wearing and washing. This is why testing is such a huge part of our process. Bleaching can cause denim to lose tensile strength, One does not gain a reputation as the “world’s best denim as can abrasive stonewashing, so we’re using some advanced manufacturer” or the “world’s best-fitting jean” by accilaser techniques. We also test for color consistency, shrinkdent. Nor does one invest in a mirror-image second factory age, etc. There are 52 quality control checks in the process.” if business is not booming in the first. AG’s 480,000-sq.-ft. As if his engineering expertise were not enough, Mr. Ku is LA facility produces about 50,000 pairs of jeans weekly! Its also a scratch golfer; he’s recently created a golf collection new 470,000-sq.-ft. facility employing 1,200 people in centhat’s already in demand at country clubs and pro shops. But tral Mexico will produce about the same number. his heart remains in denim, in creating a better product, and How did AG, in just over a decade, grow to this stature? a better planet, for generations of AG wearers to come.

AG Jeans:

The Art of Denim

TOTALLY ECO-FRIENDLY AND STATE OF THE ART, AG COMBINES NEW TECHNOLOGY WITH OLDWORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP FOR VIRTUALLY PERFECT JEANS! BY JOHN BRAEGER

profile

fabulous men’s shoe store,” they went back to a full focus on footwear. To Boot became known for lines that had never before been available in New York, but over time, Derrick’s exclusives began to fill the shop. “I wanted to create a line that could take a man from business to weekend to a cool dinner out. I went to some of the Italian factories whose quality we liked and started apprenticing: learning how shoes are made, going to components shows. It took a few seasons to pull together, then we converted the store to feature only my line.” Several more locations followed, but eventually Derrick opted to exit retail and focus solely on To Boot New York’s wholesale business. “We wanted our product to be in highend stores where we could trust that great salespeople would be on the floor to explain what makes our footwear special. That’s why it’s been a perfect synergy with the Forum Group stores.” So what exactly is it that makes To Boot special? The footwear is made in Italy at boutique family-owned factories—never mass produced. Through to the final polish, each pair is the product of over 200 individual hand operations. The process utilizes time-honored shoemaking expertise but also incorporates the most up-to-date comfort technology. To Boot New York now offers an astonishing 100 styles per season, including about a dozen core styles that Derrick calls “old friends.” “It’s great how people get attached to certain pairs,” he says. “We’ve had a natural growth and evolution just because people love the shoes and tell their friends. That’s all we can hope for.”

To Boot

ADAM DERRICK’S BEAUTIFUL FOOTWEAR COLLECTION IS ITALIAN MADE WITH A NEW YORK SENSIBILITY. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE What possessed lifelong New Yorker Adam Derrick and his Texas-born partner to open a cowboy boot store on the Upper West Side? “It was the 1980s. Urban Cowboy had just come out; it was the Studio 54 days. We rode the wave, but New York is not a natural cowboy boot market. It quickly became clear that To Boot needed to evolve to survive.” First they added clothing. Then, after a vivid dream in which Derrick saw the space “transformed into the most

ADAM’S FALL ’14 FAVORITES

RAFAEL

MOORE

STALLWORTH

GRAYSON

A distressed suede chukka with a simple monkstrap instead of laces. Its rubber sole has discreet camo detailing.

New, yet classically elegant. Perfect with slacks and a sportcoat, equally great with jeans, cords or khakis.

The perfect wingtip lace-up boot in hand-burnished cognac calf.

A side-zip, plain-toe boot in rough-out suede, perfect with your favorite jeans.

If the car in your dreams is not the car in your garage, let’s talk.

The 2014 S550 Sedan. Experience The Fletcher Jones Difference.

FLETCHER JONES MOTORCARS N

330 0 Jamb o r e e Road • w w w. f j m e r c e d e s . c o m

▼

tailoring

Exceptional Interlinings Zegna suits are full-canvas and made with the best interlinings in the world. This allows the jacket to lay beautifully against your body and ensures longevity.

Superior Production

Quality Buttons

In all, 500 hands from the familyowned, vertically integrated company contribute to the making of each suit, from acquiring the wool to weaving the innovative fabrics to the final finishing work on your barchetta breast pocket.

Buttons are made of highquality Corozo, genuine horn or mother of pearl and color coated in-house to perfectly match the hue of your garment.

LUXURY SUIT CONSTRUCTION

Modern Fit

Fine Fabric

The slightly shorter jacket and a softer, more sculpted silhouette will make you look and feel like a million bucks.

The fine wool fabric “breathes,” so it’s cool and comfortable even in overheated office buildings.

Inside a Suit

At first glance, these two dark gray suit jackets appear to be similar. But take a closer look (or feel) and you’ll quickly see that color is the only thing they have in common. The jacket on the left is made by Ermenegildo Zegna, produced in its European factories from one of its proprietary high-performance fabrics. On the right is a scratchy, boxy bargain version, available at a national menswear chain famous for its price-slashing promotions. Sure, you can get three for under $500… but you get what you pay for.

Poor Fit Stiff shoulders and a full, boxy cut look unnatural and out of date. You deserve better!

Uncomfortable Low armholes make moving uncomfortable: every time you lift your arms, the entire body of your jacket lifts with you.

Inferior Fabric Generic, utilitarian fabric is rough and wrinkles easily.

IMAGES BY BRIAN KLUTCH, JACKET COURTESY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, PRODUCTION ASSISTANT SHYAM PATEL, SPECIAL THANKS TO TIM PAIT

BARGAIN SUIT CONSTRUCTION

Cheap Interlinings Shoddy inner workings are glued into the suit, so after only a few cleanings, the glue will begin to wear down and come through the fabric in unsightly patches.

In a spoof that aired earlier this year on SNL, comedian Vanessa Bayer suggested that “affordable and absorbent” suits from this national chain were better suited to wiping spills and soaking up bacon grease. Because of the chain’s “innovative buy-one-get-three-free pricing,” she explains, “they’re effectively cheaper than paper towels” and “I can feel good about throwing them away when I’m done.” We cringe at the idea of a disposable wardrobe and prefer to invest in classic clothing that’s made to last. Come into the store and see for yourself why top-quality tailoring is the obvious choice.

ShopFashionIsland.com

ÂŠ The Irvine Company LLC, 2014. All Rights Reserved. Fashion Island is a registered trademark of Irvine Company. Tuna Tartare and Carrot Cake from R+D Kitchen. Salvatore Ferragamo Shoes, Isaia Sportcoat, Armani Tie from GARYS.

the pe r fec t pair ing o f

TA I L O R E D and TA S T E F U L Over 200 shops and restaurants on the coast.

the LUXE LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY & WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY

VINTAGE FLAIR

SUBTLE BOLDNESS

SIMPLE ELEGANCE

FALL ESSENTIALS THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEMS OF THE SEASON—AND HOW TO WEAR THEM.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE STUDIOS / ART DIRECTION & STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

1. THE BOOT Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve got dress shoes and sneakers, but what do you wear with those casual inbetween looks? This boot is the answer. Mid-height boots keep you warm while still looking fashionable, and suede or leather can be worn throughout the winter except on the wettest of days. (Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget to waterproof them before the first wear.)

FALL ESSENTIALS

2. THE CUTAWAY

COLLAR SHIRT Formerly seen only on solid dress shirts, cutaway collars can now be found as a dressier detail on patterned sport shirts. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fine to skip the tie, or try one in knit, wool or cashmere for a fun departure from the standard silk.

3. THE SLIM SUIT Before fabric or even brand, the first thing others will notice about your suit is the fit. With its narrower leg, shorter jacket, and all around trim look, the slim suit can complement any man, no matter his age or size. Aim for a very slight break in the pants; the hem should just caress the top of your shoe.

FALL ESSENTIALS

4. THE SOFT COAT This deconstructed jacket takes the bulk out of layering. You can move easily, stay cool, and look put together all at the same time. Because of its softer expression, it’s much more at home with jeans, cargoes and 5-pocket pants than your stiffer, structured sportcoats. It’s a versatile alternative to a sweater or can easily be layered over one. You’ll be 10 times more comfortable but look just as appropriate.

COPY BY SHYAM PATEL. FASHION ASSISTANTS LOUISA BLASIER AND SHYAM PATEL. GROOMING BY EMILEA MAUS. MODELS EDUARDO RAMOS AND CHRIS MOSIER @ FORD.

5. THE WOOL

5-POCKET PANT The wool 5-pocket pant is dressier than a jean, but just as comfortable. It’s warmer than a chino or twill, but just as elegant. It can be dressed up or down to take you from the office to a nice evening out. Trust us: you’ll be living in this style all season.

travel

THE CHARMS OF BHUTAN ARE NOT WHAT YOU’D THINK. By Andrew Isaacs

MAGIC KINGDOM we would never think that way…” In one town, installing a traffic light to replace the crossing guard caused such an uproar that the signal was removed, the guard reinstated. Plan for low-impact hikes along a river’s edge rather than intense rock- or mountain-climbing, considered disrespectful to the mountain. Plan to experience a society based on caring for one another, one with minimal stratification, with equal access to education and health care. Plan to meet gentle people in traditional garb who will reinforce your belief in human kindness. Getting there is tough: there’s one airline with infrequent flights. And the food is just okay. But you don’t go to Bhutan for such superficial pursuits; you go for a cultural and spiritual experience unlike any you’ve known. For more info, contact Aman (the Sanskirt word for peace) Resorts, with beautiful lodges across the country. They will customize a trip to meet your needs and fulfill your dreams.

The sole surviving Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom, Bhutan is a tiny land of big surprises. Instead of GDP, they believe in GNH: gross national happiness. Cut off from the rest of the world until the 1960s, this remote, pristine nation has recently opened its doors to civilization. But just a crack. Still, it is said there’s been more change in Bhutan during these past eight years (cell phones, satellite TV, tourists!) than there had been in the past 800. Observing the havoc wreaked by industrialization (and Western materialism) in neighboring India and China, Bhutan clings tightly to its Buddhist identity, and to the values its people have treasured for centuries. Still 80 percent agricultural, neighbors help neighbors in the fields. Traveling from town to town with our driver and a guide, we were told that the oldest daughter inherits the family house and farm. “I feel sorry for the younger daughters,” I quipped, trying to be clever. “Oh no, it’s not like that,” my guide explained. “We don’t chase wealth;

Pictured on previous page: The “Bird’s Nest” is one of Bhutan’s holiest temples and a cultural icon.

“I expected to love the majestic views, the peaceful hikes, the Buddhist temples. But what I most adored was the people, their culture, the integrity of their lives.” FAST FACTS ON BHUTAN History: Was a collection of warring fiefdoms until the early 17th century, when unifed by a leader fleeing religious persecution in Tibet. Location: Between the Tibetan Plateau and India. Size: 46,500 square kilometers. Population: 970,000. Topography: From 23,000-foot-high peaks in the north to low-lying plains and deep valleys separated by high mountain passes. Government: In 2008, transitioned from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy; held its first election. Religion: Vajrayana Buddhism, Hinduism. The Pharrell Factor: In 2006, Business Week rated Bhutan the happiest country in Asia.

f i n e s w e d i s h s h i rt m a k e r s i n c e 

wheels DESIGNED TO

Thrill

A LOOK INSIDE THE MASERATI QUATTROPORTE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA LIMITED EDITION. BY DAVID A. ROSE

Italy is renowned for many fine products: cuisine, wines and luxury fashions instantly come to mind. But high on the list of Italian gems are its exotic sports cars. Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati set the bar for fast and exquisitely designed racing machines. Every so often this automotive world crosses paths with the world of high-end fashions, but rarely have the results been so intriguing. To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Maserati marque, the company has collaborated with top fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna to offer a limited series of 100 Maserati Quattroporte highperformance luxury cars. The 100 numbered cars represent each year Maserati has been in production. An exclusive Owner’s When two highly respected global compaCollection kit is nies of this caliber work together on a project, Ermenegildo Zegna’s gift with purchase. it becomes a celebration of Italian production The kit includes and design not just from a standpoint of personal accessories and 10 yards of Zegna mechanical know-how, but also of fabric innosilk in the same vation. Ermenegildo Zegna was established as chevron pattern used a fine woolen mill in 1910 and today is known on the car’s seats. not only for its clothing designs, but also for its unparalleled creation of original fabrics. Reminiscent of the finest Zegna suit, the silk fabric used for the car’s roof lining exhibits a tasteful and classic touch. The combination of leather and silk appears in soft shades of gray and cappuccino, which exude the tone of a Zegna menswear collection and give the vehicle its strong masculine identity. The exterior shade, developed exclusively for the Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition, is called Platinum Silk. The exterior appeal of the car is further enhanced by the stunning 20” polished wheels. To drive a beautiful car is very satisfying, but the experience would be quite lacking if the car’s performance did not match its elegant looks. In this regard, the Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition will not disappoint. Thanks to its twin turbo V/8 and 530 horsepower, the car can catapult from 0 to 60 MPH in less than 4.7 seconds and reach a top speed of 191. Not only will the owner turn heads as he cruises along Main Street, but the vehicle’s speed and handling will impress even the most accomplished driver.

CDM

CLEANERS

A brand new cleaners in your neighborhood.

Environmentally-Friendly Cleaning Solutions Because we care about our beautiful city. Award Winning Design Visit our newly constructed location in the Harbor View Center. Express Curb-side Service Located in the rear parking lot. Wait in your car while our professional staff brings your order directly to you. Ideal for busy families and our elderly neighbors. Our services include: Free Pick-up and Delivery Custom Cleaning and Finishing Hand-pressed Laundry Shirts Leather and Suede Fluff and Fold Couture Cleaning Services Wedding Gown Cleaning and Preservation Special Items

We are located in your neighborhood! Harbor View Center, 1628 San Miguel, Newport Beach, CA 949.720.1010 Visit our website to learn more and sign up for our monthly promotional newsletter. www.cdmcleaners.com

food

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER OF ETON

LOETJE, AMSTERDAM “At Loetje, I always order the tenderloin with fries. I really enjoy cooking simple things, so at home it is most likely a pasta with fresh ingredients from the market.”

GIANLUCA ISAIA

GENNARINO ESPOSITO, NAPLES “I love to cook veal escalope with red wine and mushrooms. When dining out my favorite restaurant is Gennarino Esposito in Vico Equense.”

Designers Dish

GOOD TASTE RUNS FROM FASHION TO FOOD. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

JOHN VARVATOS

THE OLD MILL, EGREMONT, MASSACHUSETTS “If I’m cooking at home it would probably be something Mexican. But my very favorite place to eat is The Old Mill.” Says owner and chef Terry Moore, “The Old Mill Restaurant has been specializing in fresh seafood since opening in 1978. Oysters are featured daily and Chincoteagues from the Chesapeake Bay area are amongst the most popular. They are a medium-size oyster with a particularly refreshing, briny flavor. They’re shucked to order and served with a classic mignonette sauce on the side.”

MIGNONETTE SAUCE (makes ½ cup) 1 T coarsely cracked black pepper 2 T finely chopped shallots ½ cup French red wine vinegar Chopped chives and salt to taste

All things come from the Earth XENOPHANES

ARNOLD SILVERSTONE OF SAMUELSOHN & HICKEY FREEMAN

TRATTORIA DELL’ARTE, NEW YORK CITY “Trattoria Dell’Arte is right around the corner from our New York offices. It’s been around for decades. The food has always been good, but I remember going there many years ago and it was very crowded. There was a long wait and a lot of attitude from the staff. Truthfully, it was more trouble than it was worth. “Then two or three years ago I started going back. I’m not sure if they changed management or just had a change of heart, but now they greet everyone by name and with a handshake, and they give you a glass of prosecco while you wait. “It was a big lesson to me about the importance of service (and one I try to apply to my own business). Though I always loved the food, I never would have called it my favorite until they made it a warm and pleasant atmosphere. They work hard and they make it feel like eating at home (but better).”

FUN FACT: Trattoria Dell’Arte is centrally located between several of New York’s iconic performance venues, including Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall and Radio City Music Hall.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CASA TUA, MIAMI

ROBERT STOCK OF ROBERT GRAHAM: MINETTA TAVERN, NEW YORK CITY

“I don’t go out often but I really like the burger at Minetta Tavern in New York. It’s a cool place because they have good music and they make a great margarita.”

FUN FACT: Minetta Tavern first opened in Greenwich Village in 1937. A food critic from Time Out New York called the Black Label Burger “the first pricey burger I’ve tasted that’s worth every penny.”

“I like very much to stay at home and have pizza with my family and my friends. My favorite dish to cook is pasta with fresh tomato sauce and basil; I like the simple recipes so typical of our Umbrian tradition. But if I am away from home and have to choose a restaurant, I like Casa Tua in Miami.”

ABOVE: Sip a classic Italian aperitif like a Negroni or an Aperol Spritz at Casa Tua’s inviting bar. Casa Tua’s chef’s table caters to private parties and special guests (like Brunello Cucinelli).

Casual Luxury for Men

THE JOYS OF YOUTH, THE MAGIC OF MUSIC, CAPTURED IN PHOTOGRAPHS. BY WAYNE MAIBAUM

“What would you think if I sang out of tune Would you stand up and walk out on me Lend me your ears and I’ll sing you a song And I’ll try not to sing out of key I get by with a little help from my friends...” “Saving up your money for a rainy day Giving all your clothes to charity Last night the wife said Oh boy, when you’re dead You don’t take nothing with you but your soul…”

COURTESY OF MORRISON HOTEL GALLERY: BEATLES IN SURF BY CHARLES TRAINOR; BEATLES IN LIMO BY CURT GUNTHER

anniversary

Soundtrack of Our Lives

A recent exhibit at Soho’s Morrison Hotel Gallery, curated by Julian Lennon and showcasing some never-before-seen photographs of The Beatles, reminded me of why we still love them. For 50 years, The Beatles have been credited with social change, from setting fashion trends to spurring the fall of communism! But for most of us, their importance is more personal: simply put, their music makes us feel good, restoring the promises of youth and providing a universal connection that transcends age, race, religion, politics and all such superficial barriers. (Imagine!) Our basic human emotions— love, loss, longing, regret, remorse, elation—continue to resonate in each resounding melody. And mysteriously, the older we get, the more we seem to get it.

world scene

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Experience life’s little luxuries. BALLET BECOMES YOU

Ballet Hispanico is the foremost Latino dance company in the United States. This dazzling young group of wonderfully talented dancers, with a repertoire of over 100 works, creates a brilliant theatrical experience performed to sold-out audiences in America, Europe and South America. “We combine the artistry, technique and physicality of the dancers and imbue ballet with contemporary and Spanish dance,” explains artistic director Eduardo Vilaro. “It’s the passion of the Latino world.” In 2015, Ballet Hispanico will be appearing across the country in cities including Chicago, New York and Washington D.C. To get the insider experience, sign on as a Patron: you’ll meet the dancers, watch rehearsals and even travel with the company.

Near the markets and not far from the Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech, secluded on a quiet, narrow street, a modest door opens to an elaborate atrium lined with balconies in rich wood. A former 19th-century palace, the Riad Ayadina is a mixture of light and shadows, cozy nooks and open spaces. The three rooms and six suites have four-poster beds (strewn with rose petals to celebrate your arrival) and copper baths. There’s a swimming pool, hot tub and a spa offering massages, facials and a traditional Moroccan Hammam bath. The charming French owner oversees accommodations and personally arranges the lavish menus. Have breakfast on the roof terrace with views over the old city into the mountains, and dine by candlelight on a three-course fusion of French and Moroccan cuisine in your own private courtyard.

TOP: COURTESY OF EDUARDO PATINO

ROYAL RETREAT

THIS DESK IS YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND

NEED A LIFT? Davos, Switzerland is the highest city in Europe, home to the amazing Parsenn Mountain (a favorite of freestylers and snowboarders), and nearby, the new InterContinental Davos. This opulent hotel with a unique golden egg design by Oikos has spacious rooms, each with a balcony overlooking Davos and the mountains. There are three restaurants (at the Capricorn, an alpine brasserie, culinary director Alex Kroll has created a surprisingly delicious hay soup, featuring a Champagne/white wine base and hay grown at or above 2,000 meters). The Alpine Spa uses La Prairie products and indigenous herbs.

If you work hard at your desk, it might be time to choose one that works as hard as you do. Incorporating the principle that human beings feel better when they move around periodically, the Stir Kinetic Desk can “learn” your habits and remind you when it’s time to change positions. It can be programmed with your standing and sitting height preferences (a simple double tap will move it up or down), and can even sense and track your standing time and the calories burned while you’re on your feet. Plus it’s WiFi and Bluetooth enabled. Now sit. Good desk.

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . A N D J E A N S

arts

the worldwide economic collapse. His works open a door to the world of the 1930s. We see prices for various items: $2.98 for a cloche hat; a breakfast of eggs, potatoes and coffee for 10 cents; a hotel room for 30 cents; permanent waves for $1.75. Marsh includes a newspaper headline for September 17, 1934 in his painting of African American bathers at Rockaway Beach: Bride Quits Astor in Street Quarrel—Takes Off to Mother. In a poignant painting, Marsh shows crowds outside a theatre where tickets are 25 cents. Viewers at the time knew that movie prices had been fixed at 30 cents and the Depression’s deflation was at work. Reginald Marsh began studying art seriously after graduating from Yale University in 1920. An inheritance left him free to pursue his art full time. He was a tireless worker, filling 200 sketchbooks with scenes that went into his paintings. One of Marsh’s great subjects was the peculiar entertainment of the era. He painted Ten Cents a Dance in 1933, showing exuberant “taxi dancers,” women with whom men could dance for a few minutes for a dime. He painted Zeke Youngblood’s Dance Marathon (1932) in which desperate people competed for prizes in grueling endurance contests. Marsh also portrayed the Savoy, the one place in the city that allowed integrated crowds, but his greatest effort was painting the burlesque shows that thrived in New York until put out of business by Mayor LaGuardia in 1937. He shows chorus line dancers and strip-tease artists, but also shows the audience and their reaction to the shows. Do Marsh’s characters know that earthly pleasures like Burlesque and Coney Island are fleeting and that they must soon return to the grim realities of the Great Depression? Does joining a raucous crowd help people overcome loneliness? These questions might arise after you’ve visited Marsh’s works, but during your time with them, you will be transported to the stores, theatres and amusements of an era when New Yorkers “put on a happy face” in opposition to harsh conditions.

Swing Time

A FRENZIED LOOK AT DEPRESSION-ERA NEW YORK. BY DAVID HOWLETT Crowds of shoppers, movie audiences and beach-goers squeeze into the incredible paintings of Depression-era artist Reginald Marsh. Marsh created a kaleidoscopic mirror of the city, making us think again about how everyday people responded to life during the Great Depression. His subject was people. Unlike the solitary denizens in the paintings of his contemporary, Edward Hopper, Marsh painted crowds: subway riders, circus goers, soup kitchen lines. One of his favorite subjects was his own neighborhood near Union Square, one of the great centers for women’s apparel retail during this time. Paintings show busy shoppers, windows and fitting rooms. Marsh paid close attention to what people were wearing, and students of fashion will marvel at the attention Marsh paid to shoes, hats and accessories. On a darker note, Marsh painted picketers outside a store called Ohrbach’s. He also painted scenes of unemployed people on the Bowery, well aware of the devastation caused by

ARLINGTON A SALUTE TO THE 150TH

ANNIVERSARY OF ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERY. BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE

Arlington National Cemetery has a rich legacy as one of our national treasures. It serves as the final resting place for more than 400,000 service members, veterans and their families from all branches of the military. “Although not officially a cemetery until 1864, we have veterans from every one of America’s conflicts, beginning with the American Revolution,” says command historian Dr. Stephen Carney. Arlington is still an active cemetery, conducting nearly 7,000 services per year. If you listen closely, the unmistakable sound of Taps might guide you from the evocative eternal flame, marking the gravesite of President John F. Kennedy, to the majestic Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, guarded day and night by the distinguished Tomb Guard sentinel, or Old Guard. Considered to be the very best of the elite 3rd U.S. Infantry Regiment, the Old Guard is the oldest active-duty infantry unit in the Army,

serving our nation since 1784. Sunglasses gleaming, shoes shining, uniform pressed and fitted to perfection, each guard marches 21 steps behind the Tomb, pausing for 21 seconds before turning and repeating the process. Back and forth, stoic and proud. Footsteps always clicking in sync with the number 21, symbolic of the highest honor that can be bestowed upon the American soldier “Known But to God”: the 21-gun salute. Beyond the Tomb, more sights and sounds remain to be seen, including the open-air Memorial Amphitheatre, where crowds gather to hear performances and dedications, and wreath-laying ceremonies that pay respect to our nation’s fallen heroes. It’s no wonder that Arlington National Cemetery hosts over three million visitors each year, including dignitaries from around the world. After 150 years, its significance and legacy remain stronger than ever.

A MUSICAL TRIBUTE Scott Eyerly’s Arlington Sons illuminates a universal experience—the changing of the guard between generations—in a uniquely American context. The 12-minute duet by bass-baritone David Pittsinger and his son Richard honors David’s late father, a U.S. Army veteran who served as a distinguished Tomb Guard at Arlington National Cemetery in the 1950s. It is believed to be the first-ever musical work written for a real-life father and son. Following premiere performances with the West Point Band and the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra and a release on iTunes earlier this year, Arlington Sons was praised by D.C. radio station Classical WETA: “Through this lyrical and intimate musical work, a family’s moment on a sunny hilltop becomes a loving lesson in honor, sacrifice and patriotism.” Pictured at right is Richard Mayne Pittsinger, who served as Tomb Guard from 1954 to 1955.

COURTESY OF ISTOCK

history

Honoring

fitness

with movements that use a variety of weights and levels of resistance to build strength and flexibility, and a focused core routine that defines the abdominal muscles and works deeply in the transverse abdominals. The workout concludes with a high-intensity, agility-based cardio session.

When can someone expect to see results? You’ll feel things happening in your body right away, and you’ll start to see results within the first week. It kind of feels like you have the flu or something because you’re not just sore in one spot; your whole body is sore because you’re waking everything up, even the smaller muscles. But you’ll be motivated and it forces you to form a really deep connection with yourself.

HEALTH AND FITNESS PHENOM TRACY ANDERSON ON TRAINING THE MODERN MAN. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI Trainer Tracy Anderson has transformed the bodies of celebrities like Victoria Beckham and Jennifer Lopez. With over 14 years experience, four studios, 160-plus DVDs and a meal replacement shake already under her belt, it’s no surprise that she’s turning her attention to men. After testing her method on celebs like Robert Downey Jr., she’s added men’s classes at her studio and teamed up with XBOX to develop at-home, male-focused workouts.

How is your program different from what’s out there? It’s time for men to branch out of their workout ruts. Men want to look good in their suits, and they want to function like athletes without being overdeveloped. Men want to be physically challenged, so when they become really good at something, they end up continually adding more weight. But that just builds bulky mass and can create micro tears in their muscle fibers. There are more forward-thinking, progressive ways of achieving what’s possible with our bodies. My workouts change every 10 days, so no one will ever plateau. A typical workout will include a full-body warm-up, an arm routine, a lower-body workout that employs planks along

We tend to think of women as the ones who are focused on their imperfections, but men are just as aware, concerned and insecure about their bodies and deal with the same frustrations when they walk into a big gym or an intimidating cycling studio.

You have studios on both coasts and clients all over the world. How do you stay healthy while traveling? Your body is like a computer: if you don’t treat it properly and it gets a lot of viruses it may still work, but it doesn’t work optimally. So I think people need to travel with a certain awareness and mindfulness. Just because you’re away from your gym or your DVDs or your preferred teacher or trainer, that’s not an excuse to skip your workout. The body does not like to operate in an inconsistent manner. It likes to be treated properly.

Can you share some tips for healthy snacking? It’s important not to snack on things that are artificial. If you want potato chips, then go for a bag that’s organic with the fewest ingredients. I like Kettle Chips, but Pop Chips (which claim to be healthy) are highly processed with a ton of sodium and ingredients that you can’t pronounce.

How do you motivate your clients to make sure they keep showing up? Not to sound cheesy, but people don’t value how precious life is sometimes. We are meant to move, to have energy and be physical. To stop achieving goals for your body is like a slow kiss of death. I honestly don’t look at what I do as being in the business of vanity: I’m in the business of celebrating life and celebrating the body you’ve been given and its potential. Go for a natural high!

COURTESY OF MIRANDA PENN TURIN

High Energy

What surprised you most when you started training men?

PERSONAL SHOPPING At your request, one of our sales associates will pre-select garments that fit your style and notify you of their arrival in the store.

Alex Perez, GARYS tailor for over 15 years

TAILORING

Our on-site expert tailors will happily work with you and your sales associate to create the perfect fit.

GIFT CARDS

HOME DELIVERY & SHIPPING We ship to anywhere in the United States. If you’re in town, we can hand deliver to your door for added convenience.

AT YOUR SERVICE

SIGN UP FOR E-MAIL & LIKE US ON FACEBOOK Get the latest information on special events, in-store appearances, trunk shows and promotions.

SHOP

GARYS ONLINE

Our world-class selection of brands is now available for purchase at garysonline.com. Just click on “Online Store.”

WARDROBE CONSULTING & CLOSET CLEANING

In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And, if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.

MADE-TO-MEASURE

We proudly offer luxury hand-tailored garments personalized to suit your individual taste and style. Your measurements are kept on file and updated as needed, so a new garment can be specially created for you at any time. A wide variety of models and fabrications are available from the following brands:

BRIONI • CANALI • ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA • ISAIA • ROBERT TALBOTT • SAMUELSOHN

end page

My Father, Myself BY LENOR ROMANO My mother gave up shopping for me by the time I was five. She gave up shopping with me at seven. Was it because I was so skinny that I had to buy boys’ slim pants? Or that I embarrassed her, demanding the stars-and-stripes bell bottom jumpsuit that she considered blasphemous? Shopping for me became my father’s job. Yes! Very cool! The man had no patience, so I always got what I wanted just to get us out of the store. By age 11 I could no longer find what I dreamt of in the young junior department, so I took to designing my own clothes. Snakeskin mini skirts, faux pony midis, leopard fur vests... Fortunately I had an aunt who was a professional seamstress and could fulfill my desires. My dad maintained his role as my personal shopper for expensive things like boots and bags. (We’re talking Granny boots that tied up to the knee, green suede boots with fourinch platforms, a red vinyl raincoat, a leather hoodie...) He had great taste, priding himself on always looking “smart.” In the ’70s, he also had a friend at Botany 500 and was a perfect 40 regular—right off the rack. There were a few years when he gained weight in an attempt to quit smoking, but that was shortlived: he was more concerned about his wardrobe than his health. During college I had a summer job as a “swatch boy” at Cross Country Clothes. The man I worked for was more interested in skirts than suits. I fended him off politely until September, then told him off. I was just 18. I still managed to get my dad a few samples. Sadly, I recently had the distinction of helping my mother select my father’s final outfit. The suit was easy: there were lots to choose from, though he hadn’t worn one in a long

time. The tie was next. His drawer opened with a smell of wood and what I imagined was his Noxzema shaving cream. I knew his ties well: the Countess Mara ones he was so proud of, the rich madder silks. Then I saw his favorite, a deep barn red, but it had stains on it, rendering it unusable. (He was meticulous about his appearance; I wondered why he had kept it.) I dug deeper into his tie drawer, finding wide ties, skinny ties, knit ties... a lifetime of sartorial memories. I selected a paisley, rich in amber, ocher and plum. During his final years, I’d made it a point to tell him how much I loved him. I gave him a card with of all his favorite expressions typed across it in different colors and fonts. He studied it for awhile, and then exclaimed “This is all true!” I gently reminded him that these were his words, the words he taught me to live by. They’ve served me well.

“MY DAD WAS MORE CONCERNED ABOUT HIS WARDROBE THAN HIS HEALTH.”

G A R Y S F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 4