Garys

GARYS Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2013

FALL FASHION

CATCH CABIN FEVER DESIGNERS GET PERSONAL THERE’S AN APP FOR THAT: GOLF GOES DIGITAL JOURNEY TO AFRICA

would have been to be a musician.

WHAT WOULD IT SURPRISE PEOPLE TO LEARN ABOUT YOU?

one place I cannot resist for a getaway.

SD: Esalen in Big Sur, CA. GI: Capri.

RS: I love the Caribbean Islands, I love Italy, I always have a great time in Asia… Since I can recharge in only a day or two, I love spending a few days in a lot of different places all over the world.

JV: The island of Mustique.

WHAT’S A QUOTE YOU LIVE BY?

John Varvatos SD: I studied particle physics.

GI: Maybe that I like to read mindfulness books, or that in the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic.

RS: I’m hardworking but I really need my downtime.

When I was younger I was into all kinds of Zen meditation, so I’m extremely capable of just unplugging and ignoring everything.

JV: I’m pretty laid back and a bit shy.

WHERE DO YOU GO TO ESCAPE?

BC: I’m inspired by the fascinating St. Benedict, who advised the abbot responsible for his monks to be both rigorous and gentle, a demanding master and a kind father.

SD: Live now!

GI: It is not possible to buy great style. Every man must create his own.

RS: I’d just like people to say about me, “He was a good guy.”

JV: It’s only rock ’n roll, but I love it!

BC: I like very much to stay at home with my family and my wife, but if I have to plan a trip, I love going to the mountains, especially to the Dolomites in the north of Italy. There you can find beautiful landscapes and nature lives all around you.

In the summer, I love Isola di Cavallo, a small island between Corsica and Sardinia. I stay at the Hôtel and Spa Des Pêcheurs. This is

20

ISAIA CORTINA COAT, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MILANO JACKET

Robert Stock

GARYS Fashion Island, Newport Beach 949-759-1622 Del Mar Plaza, Del Mar 858-794-0740 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

FEATURES 6 24 28 48 58

Welcome Letter Profile: PT01 Profile: Doriani Tech: In Full Swing Fitness: Hit the Mat

FASHION 16 22 30 34 40

Designers: Talking to the Talent Style: On the Rise 1 Suit. 7 Ways.

Log House of Style The Fall Guy

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DEPARTMENTS 8 12 26 44 52 56 62 64

Ask Forum Man of Style: All About Al Giving Back: Working Wardrobes World Scene Travel: African Adventure Spirits: Hi-Tech Drinking At Your Service End Page: Restaurant Rules

Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS

FALL/WINTER 2013 MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

ATTENTION TO DETAIL is what has turned Eton into one of the world’s finest shirt makers. Founded in 1928 by husband and wife Annie and David Pettersson, Eton’s dedicated belief in quality and craftsmanship has helped spread their story from the small village in Gånghester in the west of Sweden to some of the world’s most exclusive stores. Today, Eton is still run by the Pettersson family and remains loyal to its heritage as a specialist shirt maker.

celebrating 85 years of fine shirt making 1928–2013

WELCOME TO THE FALL 2013 ISSUE OF GARYS FORUM MAGAZINE DEAR FRIENDS & VALUED CUSTOMERS,

This is a very exciting time for us at GARYS. By the time you receive your copy of this magazine, we should be settling into our new home in Fashion Island. It’s only about 50 yards from the store we’ve been in for years, but you’ll feel the difference immediately.

As our business in Fashion Island grew, we expanded GARYS bit by bit, taking on adjacent spaces as they became available. The result was an interesting store, with lots of nooks and turns to navigate to get to the different shops… but it was a difficult space to work in. The new floor plan is much more open and flexible, giving us room to host special events and unique brand presentations. We think you’ll find it to be even more inviting, warm and friendly than the GARYS you have come to know over the years.

The rendering on the opposite page should give you a feel for the new space, but you really have to come in and experience it for yourself. We’ve cleared out our old inventory and we’re fully stocked with the best new looks of the season, from all the brands we’re known for and several more that we’re anxious to share with you. And, of course, you’ll still find the same caring and knowledgeable staff, great values and personalized service that make the GARYS experience special. As in the past, you are always welcome in our home and we’ll be happy to give you a tour.

So take the short walk to the new GARYS. We look forward to seeing you!

Sincerely, The GARYS Team

6

ASKFORUM

FALL 2013 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

do about this? I’m tempted to go over the fabric with fine sandpaper but I worry I might make it worse.

Q:

It’s to adjust the tightness of the sleeve, although not all makers offer this option. In any case, kudos to you for wearing French cuffs and cufflinks, adding a touch of class to your sartorial style. We hope you’re also trying bowties, pocket squares, tie clips and/or boutonnieres, all of which add personality to your executive look.

some of the new high-tech fabrics that are moisture wicking, antimicrobial and amazingly comfortable. Try them in fashion colors and patterns if you dare.

Q:

I’ve noticed that my darker, harder-finish wool suits (even the expensive ones) tend to pick up shine after dry cleaning. Is there anything I can 8

Q:

What’s the proper length for pants these days?

Definitely shorter than they used to be, now that slimmer leg styles are popular. While we don’t recommend showing your ankles (although young trendsetters are doing it!), we do suggest just a slight break to no break at the top of the shoe.

Unfortunately, lots of guys are still wearing their pants with a big break or even a double break: we feel that excess fabric bunched up on slim pants is a bit unflattering.

COURTESY EDWARD ARMAH

Q:

I recently bought some Boxer shorts are not dress shirts with French working under the new cuffs. On the inside part of each slim pants I’ve been buying. cuff, there are two cufflink What type of underwear should holes, while on the outside part I try?

We suggest trim boxer briefs in of the cuffs, just one. Why?

Skip the sandpaper and cut back on the dry cleaning. If your suit gets soiled, spot cleaning is best; dry clean as infrequently as possible.

Other tricks of the trade: buy some good cedar hangers and leave space between suits in your closet; rotate your wardrobe so that you don’t wear the same suit on consecutive days.

Most importantly: update your wardrobe with a new suit or two every year or so. With today’s slimmer fits, what’s in your closet is likely to look somewhat dated.

HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC.

The best shopping center in Southern California. ~ LA TIMES Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom and Orange County’s only Neiman Marcus plus over 200 specialty shops and restaurants.

R E B E C CA TAY L O R

ANTHROPOLOGIE

Gucci sunglasses from Bloomingdale’s, Valentino heels from Neiman Marcus, Michael Kors handbag from Nordstrom, Rolex watch from Traditional Jewelers. © The Irvine Company LLC, All Rights Reserved. Fashion Island is a registered trademark of Irvine Company.

ShopFashionIsland.com

man of style

ALL ABOUT AL

But fortunately, when we had Superstorm Sandy and the Oklahoma tornado and those types of severe events, we were pretty much right on target. As our computer modeling improves, so does our accuracy.

How important are clothes in your life? What are your personal style preferences?

I’d describe my style as fairly traditional: I don’t take major fashion risks; in fact, the biggest decision I had to make this season was cuffs or no cuffs on my pants.

(I opted for no cuffs…) But what most distinguishes my style, I suppose, is that I’m not afraid to wear bold colors. I think it’s fun!

For television, I like a tailored look. I used to be a basic blue blazer kind of guy, but as I’ve gotten older, I’ve evolved to more sophisticated Italian clothing.

Zegna, Brioni and Kiton are among my favorite suit brands; sometimes I buy custom, sometimes off the rack.

For weekends, I like The biggest decision to wear jeans or khakis I had to make this season with either a polo shirt or a classic woven shirt. was cuffs or no cuffs

on my pants.

Here’s what’s happening in Al Roker’s neck of the woods…

By Karen Alberg Grossman What makes a great weatherman: accuracy or personality?

Obviously it’s a combination of both, but accuracy is more critical than ever these days. With so many extreme weather events recently, getting it wrong can be life threatening. Of course, today’s improved technology enables more accurate forecasting.

As for the personality part, whatever flavor you want, you can find it. Prefer a simple straightforward forecast, just the facts? You can find it! You want personality and showmanship, you can find that too. With so many TV channels, there’s a weatherman for every preference.

Is it fair to ask your accuracy percentage?

It’s not a good question since I’m now forecasting over such a broad area. When I did local news in Cleveland or D.C. or Syracuse, it was easier because it was a clearly defined geography; now it’s the entire country.

(Lately, I’ve been buying checks.) I like easy comfortable sportswear and here, I’m less concerned about designer names.

Who are your fashion role models?

Well Matt Lauer has definitely influenced my style since he always looks so perfect (probably because he worked at an upscale menswear store as a teenager…).

If I had to pick a celebrity fashion role model, I’d say Daniel Craig and George Clooney. (But how likely am I to ever look like them?)

Actually, a 75-year-old guy who I don’t even know became a fashion role model for me. I had spotted him at a fundraiser in Washington, D.C. wearing a fabulous black watch tartan dinner jacket; I asked him where he got it and he told me he bought it 40 years ago at the flagship Brooks Brothers store on Madison Avenue. So I went looking for that fabric and had a similar one made up for me by Zegna. I wore it to a red carpet

12

Knowledge. Wisdom. Truth

assignment and got lots of compliments!

Do you have a good luck tie?

Not really. But I’ve been wearing a lot of Brioni ties lately: I like the heft. Also Zegna and Drake’s…

What about the slimmer-fit clothing they’re showing these days: are you wearing it?

Not so much. For me, it will take some getting used to.

Once you’ve been overweight, you don’t want to be reminded of when everything was too tight…

meet this incredibly brave woman whose courage changed the course of history, for not just African Americans but for all Americans. And Charles Schultz because I too am an avid cartoonist and comic book fan; I’ve always been in awe of his talents. (I still sketch a bit but I’m not really pursuing it these days.)

Who I’d most like to interview?

Probably Obama. I’d ask him about his views on climate change.

Other passions?

I love cooking and reading. My most recent culinary accomplishment was grilled Chilean sea bass with roasted Brussels spouts and quinoa. My most recent great read was Thomas Jefferson: The Art of Power by Jon Meacham.

Speaking of which, tell us about your new book.

It came out in January; it’s called Never Goin’ Back: Winning the Weight-loss Battle for Good. It’s simply the story of my personal journey with weight loss. I think there’s a lot of good stuff that might help people along their own journeys, but it’s definitely not a “how-to” book…

What are you most proud of?

Hanging in there: I’ve been working for the same company (NBC) for 30-plus years. And of course my three children: my 26year-old Courtney is a chef in New York City; Leila (14) is studying performing arts; my son Nicky (10) is a master in Tae Kwon Do. I would have thought you’d be most proud of your unique ability to connect with people...

I don’t know that it’s such a special talent: I simply treat people the way I’d want to be treated. It’s how my parents raised us, and it’s the lesson I’d most like to teach my children. And while we joke around a lot on the Today show, it’s especially important that we’re never laughing at somebody, only with them.

“If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up.”

What advice would you give to someone wanting to lose weight who has not yet begun the journey?

I don’t believe in giving advice on weight loss since it’s got to come from within. For me, it literally took seeing my dad on his death bed and promising him I’d change my life… Everyone gets to that point eventually, but no amount of lecturing will do it.

Look at Governor Christie — he has young kids and a young wife and after all these years he finally made the decision to take control of his future… No one could have persuaded him. So that’s the advice I’d give people: do it for yourself, not for anyone else. If it’s someone you love who’s overweight, the best thing you can do is shut up. Because guess what: we know we’re fat! We don’t live in a world without mirrors…

Who was your best interview ever and who would you like to interview next?

My two favorites so far were Rosa Parks and Charles Schultz: Rosa because it was just such an honor to

Who is your personal hero?

Probably New York’s Cardinal Dolan. I was raised Catholic (my mom was a devout Catholic, I lean toward Catholic Lite) but with Dolan, it’s less about his religion and more about his humility, his humanity, how readily he can talk about his own failings (e.g. losing weight!). I’ve never officially interviewed him but we spent time together in Rome for the installation of the new Pope, and we’ve had dinner a number of times. He’s a straight shooter and a pretty tolerant fellow; I truly admire him.

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designers

TALKING TO THE TALENT

Get to know your favorite designers.

By Jillian LaRochelle

WHAT DO YOU NOTICE MEN DOING WRONG IN THE WAY THEY DRESS?

Eton’s Sebastian Dollinger: Some guys tend to buy the wrong size. In the U.S., the most common mistake seems to be that people buy things way too big. In Scandinavia, on the other hand, it’s generally a case of things being too tight.

Gianluca Isaia: They take themselves too seriously. You must feel confident in your clothing without trying too hard to impress anyone else.

Robert Graham’s Robert Stock: They don’t know how to put a jacket on properly. You have to put it on and straighten it out. It’s always hanging crooked on the shoulders or not laying flat across the chest.

John Varvatos: They think too hard about the uniform and not creating their own personal style.

WHICH NEW ITEMS SHOULD A MAN PURCHASE TO UPDATE HIS WARDROBE THIS SEASON?

Brunello Cucinelli: Men don’t take enough time in the morning to get ready. When men prepare for the day, they should ask themselves what they’re feeling that day, with whom they’re meeting, what they’re planning to do.

Men should pay more attention to the clothes they put on each day. The extra 20 minutes will speak volumes about the person they want to be that day.

Brunello Cucinelli BC: This fall, every man should own the Milano jacket, an ultra-light nylon style that he

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ROBERT GRAHAM SWEATER, JOHN VARVATOS BOOTS

Sebastian Dollinger

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can easily layer underneath his sportcoat, or over it, depending on the look and the occasion.

SD: Invest in a good pair of shoes for rougher weather and a new crisp white shirt.

GI: One of my favorites this season is the Cortina double-faced wool overcoat. It mixes classic sartorial details with contemporary elements.

Also, the printed Donegal jacket has a very unique look. The fabric uses the latest in printing technology, and it comes with our signature sunglass pocket, measured to the exact dimensions of the original military-issued aviator.

RS: Don’t underestimate the importance of socks; add a few fun pairs to your wardrobe. Sweaters are also making a comeback.

JV: A suede jacket and a great pair of boots.

WHAT’S YOUR GUILTY PLEASURE?

WHAT’S YOUR GO-TO OUTFIT FOR A FESTIVE HOLIDAY GATHERING? Gianluca Isaia BC: I have five fixes, which I suppose you could call guilty pleasures: cashmere, cognac, chocolate, cigars and Champagne.

SD: I buy shoes and coats that cost more than small cars…

GI: Cannot tell you...my secret vice is a secret!

RS: I’m addicted to the New York Rangers. I’m amazed by how hard the puck is and that it zooms toward them at 120 miles an hour.

JV: Collecting vinyl, especially vintage vinyl records.

WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING IF YOU WEREN’T A DESIGNER? BC: I love my work and I have always desired to do this.

SD: I want to run my own hotel one day. The ideal location would be in a forest by a lake.

GI: I would love to be a small luxury hotel keeper.

RS: I would probably be a psychiatrist. I feel like I’m always giving my employees therapy anyway! Or I would have loved to be a drummer.

JV: I love architecture, and of course my real passion

18

ETON SHIRT

BC: I love wearing our gray cashmere 1.5-breasted tuxedo for a special event. This has become my signature and I love the way it makes me feel: formal enough for a holiday gathering, but it’s comfortable enough to wear every day.

SD: My brown leather boots, washed out jeans, and one of our denim shirts. That’s it.

GI: Isaia denim with a tuxedo jacket.

RS: A few years ago we made a jacket called the Maharaja, embroidered with 25,000 miles of silk thread. Worn with jeans and velvet slippers, it’s perfect for a party.

JV: A timeless black tux jacket with a white formal shirt, a scarf and jeans.

FALL 2013 Casual luxury for men

would have been to be a musician.

WHAT WOULD IT SURPRISE PEOPLE TO LEARN ABOUT YOU?

one place I cannot resist for a getaway.

SD: Esalen in Big Sur, CA. GI: Capri.

RS: I love the Caribbean Islands, I love Italy, I always have a great time in Asia… Since I can recharge in only a day or two, I love spending a few days in a lot of different places all over the world.

JV: The island of Mustique.

WHAT’S A QUOTE YOU LIVE BY?

John Varvatos SD: I studied particle physics.

GI: Maybe that I like to read mindfulness books, or that in the summer, I wear sandals, handmade in Capri, to make my suits a little less dramatic.

RS: I’m hardworking but I really need my downtime.

When I was younger I was into all kinds of Zen meditation, so I’m extremely capable of just unplugging and ignoring everything.

JV: I’m pretty laid back and a bit shy.

WHERE DO YOU GO TO ESCAPE?

BC: I’m inspired by the fascinating St. Benedict, who advised the abbot responsible for his monks to be both rigorous and gentle, a demanding master and a kind father.

SD: Live now!

GI: It is not possible to buy great style. Every man must create his own.

RS: I’d just like people to say about me, “He was a good guy.”

JV: It’s only rock’n roll, but I love it!

BC: I like very much to stay at home with my family and my wife, but if I have to plan a trip, I love going to the mountains, especially to the Dolomites in the north of Italy. There you can find beautiful landscapes and nature lives all around you.

In the summer, I love Isola di Cavallo, a small island between Corsica and Sardinia. I stay at the Hôtel and Spa Des Pêcheurs. This is

20

ISAIA CORTINA COAT, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI MILANO JACKET

Robert Stock

style

ON THE RISE

Clockwise from top: Kerry Rhodes, Tahj Mowry, Adam Huss

Three up-and-coming stars talk clothes and cars.

By Kelli Freeman way. I love boots, especially a pair of low-top distressed boots my father calls Oliver Twist style.

Kerry Rhodes: My style depends on my mood.

Generally I’m a clean-cut, tailored kind of guy. It feels great when something fits you well, straight and narrow. I wear custom-made suits to my games.

How would you describe your personal style?

You’re all really into cars. Tell us about your favorites.

Adam Huss: I’m not a big shopper, but I love clothing. My style icons are Johnny Depp and Ryan Gosling, and I’d say my taste is a mix of hip-hop, funk and grunge. I prefer a layered look, dressier denim, and old-school leather with a soft hand.

Tahj Mowry: Number one: Don’t copy someone else’s style. Number two: Be comfortable and confident in what you wear and you’ll carry yourself that

Huss: I like a simple car that I can rely on, like my new Volkswagen Jetta. But there’s nothing like an old classic. A red Mercedes 560 SL: now that’s a ride you can go road-tripping in!

Mowry: I have a white Audi S5 (which is faster than the A5). I love the blood-red leather seats and carbon fiber interior accents. This car gets me in trouble because it’s so fast and it distracts other drivers.

22

HUSS IMAGE BY MEAGEN MINNAUGH, HAIR BY CARLOS RODRIQUEZ

he scent of a brand new ride, a leather jacket or a good cigar can conjure up a feeling of success and satisfaction. Listen in as Forum chats with three talented men about to make it big. They’re all on different paths, but share a passion for fashion and the need for speed.

My next car may be a Mercedes-Benz G-Class, but I’m still an Audi guy!

Rhodes: Cars are your babies! My favorite vehicle is my Range Rover, the first purchase I made once I got into the league. I get a new one every year. My second car is the first four-door Aston Martin Rapide in metallic gray, and one of the sexiest cars I’ve ever seen. I love it. My third car is a matte black BMW M3.

HUSS IMAGE BY CARREL AUGUSTUS, HAIR BY CARLOS RODRIQUEZ. RHODES IMAGE BY MARCEL INDIK. MOWRY IMAGE COPYRIGHT 2012 DISNEY ENTERPRISES, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

It sounds like you guys appreciate the finer things in life. What do you do to give back?

Huss: I support any charity working to find a cure for cancer, especially leukemia.

Mowry: I support The Thirst Project, which builds wells and provides clean drinking water to villages in Africa.

Rhodes: I wanted to give back to the community and the people who helped me along the way, so I created The Rhodes Foundation to support educational and financial advancement for kids in underserved high schools.

What’s something people would be surprised to learn about you?

Huss: I am a nerd! I love comic books and super heroes (and want to be one).

Mowry: That I’m a super reality TV fan! I love The Bachelor and The Bachelorette franchise and The Colony on the Discovery Channel.

Rhodes: I’m actually a better basketball player than a football player.

TRENDS THEY’RE INTO

FALL ’13 SHOPPING LIST

• boots • color • layering • slim-fit sport shirts • taking risks

• cashmere hoodie • fitted leather jacket • perfectly tailored suit • sharp dress shoes • sleek high-tops

Actor Adam Huss has appeared in NCIS: Los Angeles, CSI: NY and films like Resurrection County and Is It Just Me? Next, Huss stars in the feature film Find Me, which he also associate produced. He caught the acting bug at a young age: “I come from a big family. When we’d get together, I’d write a script, bring my cousins in and we’d act it out.” His passion is to tell compelling stories that invoke deep thought and feelings from the audience.

NFL safety Kerry Rhodes was first drafted by the New York Jets in 2005. He was traded to the Arizona Cardinals in 2010, and will wrap up his NFL career this season. Rhodes’ philosophy about life and ‘The Game’ are one and the same: “Be smarter than your opponent. Be prepared for anything and you’ll be successful. Do the hard work, study.” With his new production company, The Come Back Kids, Rhodes hopes to transition from sports to the silver screen. “I just completed my first documentary about athletes and their inability to handle stardom or manage their money. I minored in theater, so I can see myself behind the scenes.”

Tahj Mowry grew up guest starring on Full House, Friends, Sister, Sister and Who’s the Boss? before landing his own Disney sitcom, Smart Guy. He’s been a working actor since the age of four and is just coming off his second season of filming the ABC Family sitcom Baby Daddy. How does someone who’s worked through his childhood find work/life balance? “Acting is a job. I love it, but it’s not all of who I am. You have to separate it from yourself and live your life without letting your career consume you.”

23

profile

SMARTPANTS

thing new. “It’s true that there were a lot of brands making pants,” he explains, “but most had a more traditional, larger-cut leg. It was time for a better silhouette: not tight, but a little more proportionate on the leg.” And luckily, specialty retailers like us agreed.

PT01 currently offers 15 models (Editor, High-Tech, LaRochelle, etc.) in 8 different fits (Regular, Slim, Skinny, etc.) which can be made in any of the brand’s 400 colors and fabrics (including denims, luxury cottons and Italian wools from Loro Piana). There’s a strong focus on functionality, quality construction, and of course, fit. Look for new fabrics and details each season, and try a pair on to see for yourself how PT01’s use of stretch fabrics make them some of the most comfortable pants around.

Edoardo Fassino, whose family still privately owns and operates the company, serves as CEO and creative director. He manages a design team of nine, and is known to come into the office and start the day by saying, “I had a dream last night, and now I know what we

PT01 just might make the world’s most perfect pair.

By Jillian LaRochelle T, which stands simply for Pantaloni Torino, knows a thing or two about pants: its parent company, Cover 50, has been making them in Italy for more than 60 years.

They started out producing all kinds of bottoms under an array of brand names, but in 2007, it was finally time to streamline. The company decided to refocus their energies on one luxury line, for which they would use only the finest fabrics and develop the best fits. In short, they set out to make the perfect pant.

Though PT01 was a quick success in its home country of Italy, potential retail partners in the U.S. were initially skeptical. They told Mario Maran, general manager in charge of operations, marketing and strategic development, that another line of pants was the last thing they needed. But he was adamant: “This is not just another line of pants; these are the pants!”

He believed that American men were ready for some-

need to do…” The team remains on the forefront, continuing to improve and change.

What never changes is their dedication to “giving the pants big personality!” exclaims Maran. “In fact, all of our models have names so they are more interesting to talk about than ‘the gray pants’ or ‘the beige pants.’

Let’s face it: our target customers don’t need pants, so our challenge was to make the people want our pants.”

And the challenge seems to have been met: PT01 is now available in the best shops across the U.S. and in 36 other countries. In the five years following its rebranding, the company’s profits increased five-fold.

But it really sunk in for Maran at a trunk show earlier this year, where he recalls selling 15 pairs to one happy customer.

“That was very telling: here was a 56-year-old normal, healthy man. He tried a pair on, looked in the mirror and immediately asked how many pairs we had in his size. I told him we had 15, and he bought every last one.

He said they made him feel years younger.

“And I knew then that we had achieved our goal.”

24

giving back

DOES YOUR CLOSET LOOK LIKE THIS? IF SO, WE CAN HELP. DONATE YOUR CLEAN, GENTLY-USED PROFESSIONAL OR BUSINESS CASUAL CLOTHING, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES TO WORKING WARDROBES AT ANY GARYS LOCATION.

GARYS

Working Wardrobes is a non-profit organization that serves men, women and teens who are emerging from a life crisis and are committed to re-entering the workforce. They also specialize in helping our veterans in transition get back to work.

We accept men’s and women’s clothing, footwear and accessories, including handbags, and we ask that all clothes are dropped off on hangers. To learn more or to coordinate a donation, please contact us at 949.759.1622 or garysonline.com. We will assist you in getting your donation delivered and make sure that you receive a receipt from GARYS and Working Wardrobes confirming your tax-deductible contribution. You may also visit workingwardrobes.org for additional information regarding volunteer and sponsorship opportunities, special events and more.

We are proud to support this worthy cause, and we hope you’ll join us in giving back to our community.

26

profile

How would you define Milanese style, and will American men relate to it?

Top U.S. retailers first came to our shop in Milan to discover that Milanese ‘edge,’ which I describe as a combination of top-quality production and unexpected design details.

Milanese style is understated. Men who buy expensive clothing understand the investment value and that quality always, always trumps quantity. Of course American men will relate to this, particularly the special pieces that become favorites in a man’s wardrobe.

How have you grown your business internationally?

Bottom line, we don’t sell clothes: we sell a culture, a history that spans over millennia. Once people experience Italy, especially Milano, in all its facets, they come to understand the aesthetics of so-called Milanese design. Our customers care about quality, luxury and history; they are not about impulse buying.

DISCREETLY DORIANI

A top Italian menswear brand arrives in the States, epitomizing the subtle sophistication of Milanese style. By Karen Alberg Grossman s anyone who has been there will tell you, Milanese men have a style all their own.

Without much fanfare or flash, they command attention in even the simplest clothing. It’s about the luxurious fabrics, the close-to-body fit, the attention to detail (and unexpected details). It’s a look that emanates elegance and class, that appears unstudied but is in fact extremely precise in its nonchalance.

Here, we speak with Doriani’s Gisberto Sassi about his third-generation clothing business (with stores in Italy’s most beautiful resorts from Portofino to Capri), and about what constitutes Milanese style.

How will that translate in the States?

Ultimately I’d like to duplicate the formula we showcase in our Italian stores, where we sell, in small doses, everything (from suits to shoes) a man needs for his wardrobe. But this is a long-term goal. The U.S. market has always rewarded product innovators, so our focus for the next three to five years is to produce innovative items, especially cashmere knitwear.

How would you describe your management style?

I am a dreamer, but I dream in slow motion, with my feet always on the ground.

“MEN WHO BUY EXPENSIVE CLOTHING UNDERSTAND THE INVESTMENT VALUE AND THAT QUALITY ALWAYS, ALWAYS TRUMPS QUANTITY.” — GISBERTO SASSI, DORIANI 28

the Honolulu Collection

Maximize your investment in a classic cashmere suit with simple sartorial updates for any occasion.

1 SUIT. 7 WAYS. EXPLORE YOUR OPTIONS. Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson

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SPORTY STYLE

REPLACE YOUR SUIT JACKET WITH A LEATHER MOTO STYLE TO ROCK YOUR WORKDAY (OR WEEKEND).

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VINTAGE PREP

BRIGHTEN A GRAY OUTLOOK WITH A KNIT TIE & COLORFUL PLAID SPORTCOAT. LO0KING GOOD!

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CASUAL COOL

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CHECK YOURSELF

TRADITIONAL WITH A TWIST: THIS WORN WITH DARK DENIM, A STRIPED SPORT SHIRT & SNEAKERS GIVE SHIRT & TIE PAIRING BRINGS YOUR BASIC SUIT TO A MORE CREATIVE SPACE. YOUR JACKET A LEISURELY LOOK.

MODEL: LEANDRO SOUZA, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILORING: JASON SANTIAGO. RING: PROPOSITION LOVE. WATCHES: TAG HEUER, PANERAI, BREITLING

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LAYERED LUXE

WHEN THE TEMPERATURE COOLS, ADD LAYERS IN FALL’S WARMEST SHADES.

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PATTERN PLAY

DON’T FALL FLAT: GRAPHIC CHECKS PROVIDE A SUBTLE CONTRAST AGAINST SOLID TROUSERS.

LOG PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC

HOUSE

OFSTYLE

HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY

STYLING: WENDY MCNETT

MODEL: PETER ARGUE @ WILHEMINA. SPECIAL THANKS: WILLIAM BUCKLEY, MICHAEL & DONNA FRIEDMAN.

YOUR GUIDE T O MODERN OUTERWEAR

Photography Jens Ingvarsson Styling William Buckley Grooming Katie Robinson

Don’t be afraid to mix textures, colors and patterns.

THE FALL GUY Outerwear classics get a modern update with new treatments and details.

A pocket square adds pop.

The lined lightweight material takes you through changing seasons.

Casual Luxury WITH FITTED SILHOUETTES AND LUXE DETAILS, THESE PIECES PULL DOUBLE DUTY FOR WORK AND WEEKEND.

Distressed fabrics look great with jeans.

Wide lapels define shoulders.

Donegal fabric is dressy but cool.

Double-Breasted

GO DRESSY OR CASUAL WITH THESE SIMPLE TIPS.

A nippedin waist keeps the look sleek.

MODELS: JONATHAN RILEY, MITCH FERRIN, CEDRIC @ FORD; LEANDRO SOUZA @ Q MODEL MANAGEMENT. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO.

Keep the length short for a modern take on casual.

Vests

PERFECT WITH YOUR FAVORITE SWEATER AND CHINOS, THEY PAIR JUST AS WELL WITH A SPORTCOAT AND TIE.

department head

world scene

OPULENT ADVENTURES

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ail off on luxurious explorations of two of the world’s most exotic locations: the Amazon River in Peru and Vietnam’s Mekong River. Aqua Expeditions offers three, four, or seven-day cruises on these two intriguing rivers, providing the opportunity for a variety of fascinating experiences, from visiting historic sites to piranha fishing.

And they do it in great style. For the Amazon cruises, Aqua Expeditions provides either the 130-foot-long M/V Aqua, or the 147-foot M/V Aria. Both custom-built ships have airconditioned suites featuring sitting areas and picture windows with panoramic views. The M/V Aqua can accommodate 24 guests in 12 suites while the Aria has 16 suites with room for 32 guests, plus additional amenities such as an exercise room and an outdoor hot tub. Launching in 2014, the M/V Aqua Mekong is an extraordinary architectdesigned ship with a spa, screening room, outdoor pool and 20 guest suites with floor-to-ceiling windows, all offering magnificent views of Vietnam and Cambodia.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

KEEP ON DANCING

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IMAGE BY PAUL B. GOODE. FEATURED DANCERS LAURA HALZACK AND MICHAEL TRUSNOVEC

ince 1954, the innovative and sometimes controversial modern dance choreographer Paul Taylor has created 138 dances exploring a range of topics: life and death, love and sexuality, iconic moments in American history.

These are set to music as diverse as medieval masses, baroque concertos, classical symphonies, Tin Pan Alley, and The Mamas and The Papas. Every season for the past 60 years the Paul Taylor Dance Company has toured the world, performing in over 500 cities in 62 countries. What better way to celebrate the diamond jubilee of this legendary company than by taking to the road again? In 2014, Paul Taylor will be presenting modern dance across America, from New York to San Francisco.

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OMMMMM

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s the year winds down, take a few days and disappear to Ananda in the Himalayas, a restored viceroy’s palace with a destination spa that focuses on India’s ancient arts of yoga, meditation and ayurveda. The new you is orchestrated by a team of qualified nutritionists, western and ayurvedic physicians, and spa therapists who create programs to meet individual goals. Concentrate on destressing, detox and cleansing, relaxation, anti-aging or weight and inch loss, all in a 24,000 square-foot facility with 24 treatment rooms, hydrotherapy facilities, a Beauty Institute, outdoor heated swimming pool, sauna, steam rooms and a fully equipped fitness center. Fortunately, your stay doesn’t have to be all exercise and dieting. Between treatments, you can play golf, go white river rafting, or enjoy an elephant photo safari.

GRAND ITALIAN GROUNDS

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ldo Filicori and Luigi Zecchini founded Filicori Zecchini coffee in Bologna in 1919. After nearly a century, the company is still guided by the founders’ families and remains loyal to a philosophy that merges artisan passion and technological innovation. Together, the careful selection of the highest quality green coffee and the specific roasting process produce the particular aroma and flavor that makes Filicori Zecchini so impressive. So much so that many of the company’s coffees have earned the Italian Espresso National Institute’s certification, a designation reserved for only the best blends. Available in over 30 countries around the world, Filicori Zecchini coffee has just recently reached American shores. Buongiorno tutti!

LET IT BEE

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here was a lot of buzz when bees recently checked into the InterContinental Hotels in Boston and New York. Yes, that’s right, bees. In keeping with the environmentally responsible trend among luxury hotels, the InterContinental’s green initiatives include the use of energy-efficient lighting, water conservation and recycling programs throughout the properties. On the roofs of these hotels, along with an herb garden, there will also be apiaries, attended by a traveling apiculturist (one who raises bees for honey). The hives are expected to produce 20 to 30 pounds of honey per year, which the hotels plan to bottle for gifts and amenities, use in cocktails and on special Honey Menus.

Comb through the chef’s latest creations, including honeylacquered duck leg confit and honey almond madelines.

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tech

“When people see themselves for the first time on video, they generally think about quitting golf,” laughs Chuck Quinton, founder of RotarySwing.com, an online instruction site. “But you can’t make a change without realizing exactly what you’re doing wrong. That may seem incredibly obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t know what their swing looks like.”

Golf analysis took a huge leap forward in the mid-’90s, Quinton says, when cameras capable of capturing high-speed athletics became smaller and more affordable than the TV-sized cameras previously required. Improved camera technology, combined with analysis software that previously cost thousands of dollars but which is available today from a $5 app, means instructors can now measure just about everything and qualify cause and

IN FULL SWING

Virtual data can help improve your physical game.

By Christian Chensvold t a press conference following this year’s Masters Tournament, Tiger Woods was asked what he thought of 14-year-old golf phenom Tianling Guan. He credited golf apps that use high-speed video analysis for the success of today’s prodigies, who’ve grown up with laptops and smart phones as integral pieces of golf equipment. They’re accustomed to filming themselves, and more important, they’ve learned to analyze what they see.

Whether it’s Konica Minolta’s SwingVision camera, which can break down Tiger’s swing into 18,000frames-per-second slow motion on your TV screen, or a grainy cell phone clip of a high handicapper struggling to improve, technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing.

But how many golfers are brave enough to uncover the naked truth of their faulty swings?

Technology has brought unprecedented insight into the mechanics of the golf swing.

effect in a student’s faulty swing.

The most important thing video analysis reveals, says Quinton, is a golfer’s impact position: golf’s so-called moment of truth. The number of faults that can lead to a poor impact position are myriad, and are all revealed under the ‘CAT-scan’ of golf analysis software.

For a membership fee, RotarySwing.com lets golfers upload biweekly video clips for analysis by instructors, who write up what they’re seeing and suggest drills and changes. The workload, Quinton says, is bordering on overwhelming. His staff of 25 certified instructors shares the duties, with one full-timer devoted entirely to swing reviews.

Most of RotarySwing.com’s students use the golf app by V1, which founder Chris Hart says is an indispensable tool in a golfer’s perennial struggle to keep his sanity. V1 costs a mere $4.99 and uses a smart

48

phone’s camera to record golf swings, which can then be analyzed with software that measures body angles and compares clips of good and bad shots side by side, all of which users can store in a virtual ‘locker room.’ Clips can also be uploaded directly to coaches for professional analysis (cost varies).

The company is currently working on score tracking and shot analysis features that will allow golfers to hit a bucket at the range and get a full set of data on where their shots went, a far more reliable means of ball flight tendencies than short-term memory. This will be combined with a golfer’s performance during their rounds of play.

“There’s what you do on the range and what you do on the course,” says Hart, “and we want to have it all in one spot from which you can get feedback.”

That’s right: you’ll soon have a convenient portable database with stats on all your slices, shanks and missed two-foot putts.

While apps are cheap and convenient, nothing compares to today’s indoor golf simulators, which combine virtual play on famous courses such as Pebble Beach with advanced analysis software and multiple camera angles. XGolf’s top-of-the-line laser-based system goes for about $65,000. About half of sales are to indoor golf facilities, the other half to private homes.

The simulator allows users to get side-by-side swing comparisons with clips of their favorite pros.

And a feature called On Course Training makes lessons more engaging. “A student practicing 96-yard wedge shots can have it set up as an approach shot on a specific hole at Pebble Beach,” explains XGolf’s manager of sales and business development Ryan D’Arcy. “They can see the results as the ball lands on

different parts of the virtual green.”

As with any other piece of technology, there are upsides and downsides. In golf there’s a common issue called ‘paralysis by analysis,’ the point at which the golfer has so many technical thoughts in his mind he can no longer trust his swing to the part of the subconscious that controls muscle movement. Obsessing over angles and positions on your smart phone at the range can be as bad as texting at the dinner table.

“Once you begin to leverage video analysis, you have to learn when to close the door,” says Quinton. “Every golfer goes through paralysis by analysis at one time

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING VIDEO ANALYSIS REVEALS IS A GOLFER’S IMPACT POSITION: GOLF’S SO-CALLED MOMENT OF TRUTH. or another, and you need to be your own doctor and recognize the symptoms. [Relying on] video analysis can be a very slippery slope if you’re not careful.”

In the same press conference in which he mentioned how much technology is helping the next generation of golfers, Tiger Woods talked about visiting Korea, where indoor golf simulators are extremely popular. New players hit on them exclusively and religiously for six to 12 months, he said, then head outdoors “and have perfect golf swings.”

They all look the same, he noted, but maybe sameness is a fair trade-off for perfection.

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travel

AFRICAN ADVENTURE

Calling all thrill-seekers (who also crave fine wines, gourmet dining, spa treatments and more).

By William Kissel

sit in awe as the open-air vehicle makes its way over an expansive field of oat grass in the northern Serengeti. Suddenly, we’re nose-to-nose with a herd of 400-pound wildebeests all with the same features: a buffalo’s face, a camel’s hump and a horse’s backside. Tens of millions of migrating animals, including the homely, docile wildebeest, call this northernmost region of Tanzania home. If you’re lucky enough to visit East Africa during the off-season (mid-December through March), when the animals are calving and before the great migration gets underway in late July, you’ll find yourself viewing this magical scene almost entirely alone.

The endless stream of Land Cruisers that jockey for the best viewing positions during Africa’s peak months in the fall are nowhere to be found on this warm January day: it’s a peaceful moment in nature everyone yearns to experience but few actually do.

We drive slowly through a herd of feasting elephants, one of which is nursing a day old calf. We watch three hyenas unsuccessfully stalk a rare black rhino and her newborn offspring, a trio of cheetahs

snake through the tall grasslands, and a lone lion nap under a thorny acacia bush. This is the Africa of your imagination. The panorama of wildlife has drawn visitors since long before the days when Hemingway came to hunt. But now, with the help of two of Africa’s most celebrated tour companies — Nomad Tanzania and Asilia, working in collaboration with Canadian custom tour operator Trufflepig — it’s time to revisit Africa’s original safari destination.

East Africa’s safari outfitters have responded to competition for tourism dollars by building plush, deluxe camps and upgrading amenities to appeal to adventure-seekers who also want access to fine wines, spa treatments, pool time and other pamperings.

Naturally, getting to these remote camps is a big

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Below: The author’s tastefully appointed tent at the Serengeti Safari Camp

part of the adventure. A commercial flight via South African Airways to Johannesburg is just the first leg in a 36-hour journey. From there we board a second flight to Tanzania, where one of Tanganyika Flying Company’s 12-seat planes awaits to ferry us to Arusha, the gateway town to Serengeti safari. Here we board another small plane for a flyover of Tanzania’s famed Ngorongoro Crater (the largest intact volcano caldera in the world) to Ndutu, a rock-filled airstrip, where the first of many Land Cruisers awaits our arrival. We cross the snake-like Mara river past a pool of hippos and a few crocodiles, and continue on to Ubuntu, one of three mobile camps designed to follow the migrating animals.

Rested and well fed, we travel another three hours to our first camp at Olakira.

These mobile setups are actually lavish tent cities that require two full days and three trucks to relocate,

and each canvas structure is enormous by anyone’s standards. At both Olakira and Serengeti Safari Camp, tents are self-contained suites with oversized beds, sitting areas with lovely writing desks, and private bathrooms with a chemical toilet and stall shower in lieu of actual plumbing. Even in the remotest part of the world, these private sanctuaries are filled with little amenities to make outdoor living a four-star experience: gas- or battery-powered lighting, daily laundry service, and hot showers provided by stewards who boil water and fill your cistern on demand.

Among Tanzania’s few permanent camps is Sayari,

which is operated by Asilia and listed as one of the top five new luxury lodgings in Africa. It’s located in a remote valley five miles from the border of Kenya, home to the Kuria tribe. A mobile camp that found its permanent home just four years ago, Sayari is something of an anomaly among African camps. Its 15 tented structures are shaped like the large tabletop mountain called Turner’s Hill (after Miles Turner, the first warden of the Serengeti), visible in the distance. The tents are outfitted Asian-style with teak floors, shoji screen walls and massive marble tubs to wash away the residue from the raw, dusty plains. It’s a bit disconcerting to be in one of these tubs when a leopard passes by, but the small creature comforts far outweigh the predatory creature discomforts. (Sayari, like most camps, provides each guest with his own private askari, or night watchman, to guard against wild animal attacks.)

Unlike Sayari’s Zen Buddhist vibe, few sites scream Africa more than Lamai Serengeti, a one-year-old permanent camp developed by Nomad Tanzania on the rocky Kogakuria Kopje peaks, just a few miles from where the great migration across the Mara river begins.

Honored with the 2013 Best New Property in Africa award, it boasts 12 sumptuously appointed thatched roof structures, each with its own wraparound deck.

Resident game lingers just outside at sun up, and during the day the playful vervet monkeys can be spotted feasting on the sour plums that dangle from the native Ole Lamai trees, from which the camp gets its name.

In case you haven’t guessed, a safari is not the time to catch up on your sleep. Instead, you’ll wake before sunrise for the first of two game drives of the day. Those initial hours on safari are the most adrenaline-filled, especially as you catch your first glimpse of the big five — lion, rhino, leopard, buffalo and elephant — everyone comes to see. Once you’ve spotted them, usually within hours, your mind will open to Africa’s other amazing flora and fauna.

Lavish lunches and dinners after each drive offer the perfect opportunity to reflect in solitude or share stories with fellow travelers. And at day’s end, a surprise sundowner cocktail — a nightly African tradition — always awaits where and when you least expect it.

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Left: Women of the Kuria tribe in full ceremonial regalia Above right: One of the spectacular bathtubs at Sayari camp

spirits

feeds highlight upcoming events. But McTear’s, a Scotland-based house, offers timed online auctions, extensive search and notification features, and “Text It,” a free preliminary valuation service allowing customers to snap a picture and text “value.”

Meanwhile, ScotchWhiskyAuctions.com is a fully virtual auction house also based in Scotland, hosting weekly events.

• Once you have those fancy wines and whiskies, what to do with them? You could buy a Sub-Zero and be done with it, but consider Seattle-based Phenol 55 instead. The new state-of-the-art facility offers not only storage, but also dedicated iPad-based tracking, interaction and bottle summoning. Individual QR codes and professional images help track your bottles, no matter the size of your collection.

• While there are dozens of online wine and spirits stores, Caskers.com is the only one to both reflect the trend for flash retailing and curate rare and limited spirits and liqueurs. Offering members short-term sales, email and text updates, specialized clubs and exclusive pre-releases, “we curate carefully,” says cofounder Moiz Ali. “Men in particular don’t like rifling

HI-TECH DRINKING

Technology and alcohol move beyond cocktail apps.

By Robert Haynes-Peterson Upgrade to Drinking 2.0, very aspect of our lives has become increasingly hi-tech. There’s no reason our enjoyment of fine wines and spirits shouldn’t also receive an upgrade. Sure, there are cocktail recipe apps, mostly of the ’80s party variety (Sex on the Beach, anyone?), but check out Drinking 2.0: • Wine connoisseurs should consider replacing their iPhones with the Vertu Ti. The latest release from this luxury brand (phones range from $9,600 to $11,500) features a “Vertu key,” providing direct access to professional concierge services including a top sommelier at Berry Brothers & Rudd, Britain’s most well-respected wine and spirits merchant. From exclusive wine tastings to upscale pairing, purchasing and auction advice, it’s unlikely the Pocket Wine app will measure up.

• Wine and whisky auctions are increasingly accessible online. Most houses, like Bonhams and Sotheby’s, maintain fairly standard websites, and apps or RSS

like integrated mobile

through 1,000 products while they’re wine storage, tracking shopping. We keep the numbers down and bottle retrieval at so you can connect to the product and Seattle’s Phenol 55. find the story behind the distiller.”

What could be better than speed and ease?

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fitness

HIT THE MAT

Bikram Yoga is a 90-minute practice performed in a heated room (105 degrees Fahrenheit with 40 percent humidity). Created by Bikram Choudhury, it consists of a sequence of 26 postures and two breathing exercises. “It’s a common misconception that yoga is about sitting cross-legged and chanting,” says instructor Eoin Thomas Sharkey. “Bikram is an intense, physically challenging workout.”

“Men generally think that yoga is somehow subsidiary to other, more macho forms of exercise,” says instructor Chris Totaro. “We see it all the time: the girlfriend brings the guy for his first class. He enters the room presumptuous and overconfident, but it’s not long before he’s gawking at the display of strength surrounding him.”

Yoga is not just for flex-y, skinny people either; it’s actually more beneficial for those less flexible. The most common excuse is “I’m not flexible enough to do yoga. I can’t even touch my toes,” shares Corinne Idzal, a yoga teacher in New Consistent practice York City. “That’s like saying, will help to increase ‘I’m too sick to go to the doctor.’

strength, stamina and mental focus.

Think yoga has nothing to offer men? Think again.

By Elise Diamantini here’s a reason athletes like David Beckham, Kobe Bryant, Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and Andy Murray moonlight as Bikram yogis. Murray, a pro-tennis player who’s currently ranked third in the world and is the reigning Olympic Singles Champion, credits Bikram Yoga for increasing his mental and physical endurance during matches. And Abdul-Jabbar has said that if it weren’t for Bikram Yoga, he could never have played NBA basketball for as long as he did with so few injuries.

A consistent yoga practice has been known to increase strength, stamina, flexibility and mental focus, while decreasing stress. Yoga helps prevent and alleviate sports-related injuries by strengthening the muscles around major joints. It creates more flexibility, so it’s a perfect way to improve your golf or tennis swing.

And on the superficial side: consistent practice will help you look great in that new modern-fit suit!

It will only get worse if you don’t do something about it.” Idzal says that in general, men are tighter than women because of the anatomical and physiological differences in their bodies. “Not to mention that ‘typical’ male sports tend to create tightness because of high-impact and repetitive movements.”

Bikram yogi Anthony Rebholz says a lot of athletes, especially boxers, come into the studio because they need to find more flexibility for their sport. “Working out at the gym is all about contraction and resistance; yoga is about expansion and extending — opening up rather than closing down. Men work a lot of the primary muscle groups at the gym, but yoga works the secondary and tertiary groups. Yoga also makes you become more aware of how you move your body during other forms of exercise.”

Totaro, who says he has been more or less injury free for the past decade, also points out that “strength and

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T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R S

flexibility have a reciprocal relationship. The more muscle mass built around a joint, the more the joint’s mobility is decreased. In other words, as weight lifters continue to add bulk, their joint flexibility continually decreases. The comprehensive stretching exercises in a yoga class allow for a more balanced relationship between strength and flexibility.”

Yoga has also been known to help people heal their injuries, avoid surgery and wean themselves off medicine. A telling example from yogi Nick Graham: “A few years ago I was experiencing neurological problems: blackouts, migranes, extreme nausea. I was admitted to the hospital and for a week I was drugged, hooked up to machines and miserable. Soon after, I passed a Bikram studio and stopped in for my first class. After the best night of sleep in my life, I went back the next day, and the next. Finally I stopped taking my meds.

All the while I was being tested for myriad things, but I just practiced Bikram as often as I could, and eventually my symptoms disappeared.”

Yoga’s therapeutic effects are not limited to the physical. Those who practice report that it helps them focus, set goals and explore their potential. Plus, yoga helps keep your emotions in check. “You won’t act on

impulse,” explains instructor Jakob Schanzer. “This was a gradual change for me, but I noticed that I was reacting to things more calmly.”

If you’re still not convinced, Idzal can offer a few more arguments: “Yoga is badass! You will sleep better, work better, relax better, make love better...

Beginners are shocked by the life-transforming power yoga can have. Physical change is just the beginning.”

GETTING STARTED

Tips for beginners from Bikram Yoga instructor Corinne Idzal • Talk to your teacher before class and let him or her know you’re a beginner. They can ease your mind and give you modifications during class if you need them.

• Go to class hydrated and on an empty stomach.

• Take electrolytes before practicing yoga to help with stamina and muscle cramping. Natural sources like coconut water or green juice are best.

• It’s not a competition. No one cares if you’re stiff or can’t hold a posture. Even that dancer with her feet behind her head is too focused on her own struggle to be judging you.

• Go often, especially at first. You’re never the best at something the first time you try it, but the more you practice the better you’ll become.

FALL 2013 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.®

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Alex Perez, GARYS tailor for over 15 years

TAILORING

Our on-site expert tailors will happily work with you and your sales associate to create the perfect fit.

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GARYS ONLINE

Our world-class selection of brands is now available for purchase at garysonline.com.

Just click on “Online Store.”

WARDROBE CONSULTING & CLOSET CLEANING

In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And, if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.

MADE-TO-MEASURE

We proudly offer luxury hand-tailored garments personalized to suit your individual taste and style. Your measurements are kept on file and updated as needed, so a new garment can be specially created for you at any time. A wide variety of models and fabrications are available from the following brands:

BRIONI • CANALI • ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA • ISAIA • ROBERT TALBOTT • SAMUELSOHN

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yourself; it’s generally better to be overdressed than underdressed and these days, a slim suit scores extra points.

7. Acquire the taste for a good cocktail, straight up. It’s cool to order and enjoy a classic — Manhattan, Rob Roy, Martini, Negroni, etc. — when you’re out on the town.

(When in New York, do it at the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis Hotel.)

6. Suggest that your significant other also cultivate a favorite drink to enjoy before dinner. I love it when a lady replies promptly to a bartender’s request for her order. A confident response is sexy.

5. Red wine should be stored and served cool; experts suggest 57 degrees, not room temperature. However, it should be opened and set on the table about 15 minutes before you plan to enjoy it, so it can breathe and warm up just slightly. (Good restaurants know this.)

4. Never let your cologne precede your presence, especially in a restaurant, where fragrance and food smells are not a great combination.

RESTAURANT RULES

Stuff men should know (but probably don’t…) By Frank Schipani hen it comes to certain gentlemanly topics, including dress codes, a generation gap can often impede credibility. Receiving fashion advice from gray-haired guys in suits is not necessarily what young men crave, even if it’s what they need. That said, when it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts.

Here, the top 10 time-tested tips that are bound to score.

10. Always give the lady a facing-out seat (her back against the wall) in a restarant. A woman quite literally ‘dresses’ the room; she should have the observing seat to see and be seen.

9. Turn off your digital devices before entering a restaurant. You’re there to share an experience, not to worry about missed messages. (What could be more insulting?)

8. Always dress in a modern manner no matter where you’re going. Your appearance is how you represent

3. When making any kind of reservation, always note the name of the person you spoke to and the time you called.

(Stuff happens; you may arrive only to have someone say “I don’t see your name here…”)

2. Better still, develop a relationship with the manager of a go-to place where you can get in on short notice. All popular restaurants say “We have nothing open but 5:00 or 10:00!” Fact is, they always save a table or two during prime time that they can easily give to loyal clients at the last minute. (If they know and like you, they’ll act like you had an actual reservation and simply make another party wait a little longer.)

1. Tired of dining out or ready for something more intimate? In addition to throwing steaks on the grill, learn how to make at least one dish for the stovetop or oven.

May I suggest a basic tomato sauce for your pasta course? Buon appetito!

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GETTY 1

When it comes to wining, dining and women, experience counts.

G A R Y S F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 3