Hubert White by Fashion Forum Magazine

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2015

COATS FOR ALL REASONS WHY YOU NEED A NEW TUX! TRIPS OF A LIFETIME

welcome

FORUM MAGAZINE FALL 2015 Like father, like son……………. We are so fortunate to have many father/son relationships within the Hubert White family and in our last issue we highlighted two of them, Rick and Richard Pitino of college basketball fame and Matt and Bob White of Hubert White. This issue we go on to focus on three of our wonderful clients and their sons, or if you prefer, three of our wonderful clients and their dads. No matter how it is phrased the Colliannis, Pittmans and Spells were all great models for us. Good looking, photogenic, well dressed, tasteful guys who personify the Hubert White father/son client. Go to page 6 to see for yourself. The inside back cover is also quite significant. There, our 100th Anniversary logo is unveiled. Yes, 100 years! Throughout the year and leading up to our November 2016 anniversary, we will be celebrating with this logo. A hundred year history and still our client’s sons are our clients. Thank all of you for your loyal support over these many years. Hope you enjoy our magazine and that it entices you to stop in to check out our new fall offerings. See you in the shop,

Bob White, Owner

Pioneering in the most beautiful way: Metro with the new in-house NOMOS swing system nomos-watches.com

CONTENTS Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser INTERIM MANAGING EDITOR

Brian Scott Lipton PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

12 16 22 24 46 54

2 6 10 14 40 44 50 52 56

Furnishings: Fit Fanatic Designers: Giving Season Style: Family Matters Designers: Loving Life Travel: Experience Needed Icons: Young Lion

FASHION 20 26 28 34

Profile: Off the Clock Tuxedo Tune-Up Formal and Fabulous Out of the Woods

Welcome Letter Like Father, Like Son Ask Forum for Him Profile: Improving With Age The Fashion Forum Wheels: What Drives Him Grooming: Barbershop Wisdom World Scene End Page: Dressing Up the Weekend Wardrobe

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

Like Father Like Son

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in the Details We had a blast shooting the Coliannis, the Pittmans and the Spells. These guys are clearly well-dressed men. Each came armed with their own wardrobes for our photo shoot. The clothing comradery of these fathers and sons shines in the photography.

Joey and Bert Collianni. A deep respect for each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sense of style.

Austin and Austin Pittman. Who is the father and who is the son?

Chip and Bill Spell. A proud papa puts his trust in the well-dressed son.

ask

FALL 2015 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

I have a perfectly good winter coat from last year; will it work this season?

It probably will. Since menswear designers believe in investment dressing, they’re usually careful not to change styles dramatically from one season to the next. That said, one coat no longer fits all occasions or all lifestyles, so you might want to consider alternating among several different styles with different functions. Options include a wool or cashmere topcoat for dressing up, a three-quarter-length wool coat for business, a leather jacket for looking cool and a quilted down parka (or vest ) for activewear and maximum warmth. Many of today’s fabrics are also specially treated to be waterproof and heat-retentive: come in and we’ll show you a great assortment. (And check out our outerwear fashion shoot in this issue!)

What’s the correct length for a modern man’s pants? My girlfriend is complaining that I’m wearing my pants too short (I recently had my tailor shorten them all) but I often see models in magazines with socks showing. Who’s right? Like most things in life, it’s not black and white: European designers are showing pants shorter than American designers and fashion experts continue to debate length. Our opinion: because pant styles today are slimmer than they were a few seasons back, pant legs worn too long tend to “accordion” from ankle to calf, a truly unattractive look. The most flattering length has the bottom of the pant leg just caressing the top of the shoe, with no creases down the pant leg and no breaks at the bottom. If your socks or skin are visible, the pants are too short.

What’s up with the flowers I’m seeing guys wear on their suit lapels?

Lapel flowers, lapel pins, tie bars, cuff links, wrist jewelry, pocket squares, scarves, bags, interesting belts—men’s accessories are increasingly important and allow you to make a personal statement about who you are. If this seems a bit out of your comfort zone, try wearing just one accessory and see what it does for you. A beaded or silver bracelet that barely shows from under your shirt cuff is a good starting point, as is a pocket square that adds a touch of class to your suit or sportcoat, or a cashmere scarf that adds a luxe touch to anything you wear. If nothing else, you need a great leather bag this fall to replace that beat-up briefcase (and to save your pockets from getting over-stuffed). Remember too that accessories make great gifts since you don’t need to deal with sizes. Pocket squares for all the guys in the office? Interesting umbrellas? The perfect business card case? Happy shopping!

IMAGE BY EVAN TAYLOR; TROUSERS BY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA; SHOES BY JOHN LOBB

Today versus yesterday

Nature does nothing in vain — ARISTOTLE —

furnishings

fit

Regular, classic, slim, trim, skinny, modern, contemporary, fitted—how to know which shirt is you.

FANATIC THE GOOD NEWS: These days, you’re very likely to find a ready-made shirt that fits. Designers have eschewed yesterday’s loose flowy styles, eliminating excess fabric so that today’s shirts lie closer to the body. Comfortable, flattering and perfect for today’s trimmer suits and sportcoats, the new slim shirts are often worn without the coat and tie.

IMAGE COURTESY OF ROBERT TALBOTT

THE CAVEAT: Each manufacturer has its own definition of “slim” so sizing varies greatly from one maker to the next. With a little trial and error (or one of our great sales associates), you can readily find the right cut from the right brand, but fit labels can be confusing if you’re shopping on your own. THE SUGGESTION: For a nearly comparable price, consider made-to-measure. You’ll get numerous collar options, and you can choose from among thousands of swatches, buttons, stitching details, monograms, etc. And most importantly: a perfect fit designed and detailed just for you!

profile

One of the oldest continually operating companies in the world, Faber-Castell remains the leading manufacturer of wood-cased pencils, along with a wide assortment of luxury writing instruments, leather accessories, art materials, creative craft kits and luxury cosmetic pencils. To recount the history of Faber-Castell, one must begin with Kaspar Faber, who lived from 1730 to 1784 in a small village outside Nuremberg, Germany. A cabinet maker by trade, he had a side business producing pencils, which he sold from a basket in the village market. Its success soon made pencil-making the family’s primary business, and Kaspar’s son Anton Wilhelm took it over upon his death. Remarkably, the site Anton Wilhelm acquired on the outskirts of Stein to build his first workshop still remains as the company’s global headquarters. In 1849, Lothar von Faber became the first family member to expand beyond the borders of Germany. He set up foreign subsidiaries first in New York, and then in Vienna, London, St. Petersburg and Paris. In 1870, A.W. Faber became the fifth entry in the U.S. Trademark Register, and today bears the distinction of being the oldest active registered trademark in existence. A roughly $700 million business, Faber-Castell currrently employs 7,000 people in 100 countries around the globe. As if surviving (and growing) for more than two centuries wasn’t enough of an achievement, Faber-Castell is also credited with helping pass the first trademark laws to protect brand name products; inventing the hexagonal pencil shape; founding Germany’s first life insurance company in 1884 (which is still in existence today); and being the drawing tool of choice for artists including Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Klee and cartoonist Carl Barks. What hasn’t changed over Faber-Castell’s long history is its serious commitment to making the world’s highest-quality writing implements. The eighth generation is currently at the helm, led by Count Anton Wolfgang von Faber-Castell. His wife, Countess Mary, serves as managing director of FC Cosmetics, a division for which they both have a special affinity, while the couple’s four children are preparing for their own futures within the company. Faber-Castell continues to be a family business like few others.

A.W. Faber bears the distinction of being the oldest active registered trademark in existence.

Above: Anton Wolfgang Graf von Faber-Castell.

IMPROVING WITH AGE FABER-CASTELL CONTINUES TO MAKE THE ORDINARY EXTRAORDINARY.

FABER-CASTELL

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

designers

GIVING SEASON FIVE MEN OF STYLE SHARE THEIR HOLIDAY GIFT PICKS. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

ROBERT STOCK,

Robert Graham What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? My wife and children.

What’s on your holiday wish list this year? A vacation to someplace warm!

What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? Our herringbone suede quilted vest.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, Brunello Cucinelli What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? I couldn’t live without my books and the lessons that they hold. For this reason, I really appreciate every book that was given to me. Among my favorites is Meditations by Marcus Arelius. It is one of the most inspirational, not just for its philosophical messages, but for its universality and sincerity of self-reflections.

What’s on your holiday wish list this year? I am attached to my home and I am blessed to live in a charming Medieval village where nature is all around. I don’t need to go far to find peace and relax; rather I like to sit quietly with people or spend time with them. I’m always fascinated by the human soul.

What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? We have many beautiful and timeless pieces in the collection, but I always recommend a classic cashmere sweater. It’s a thoughtful and meaningful gift he will keep and treasure for a lifetime.

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, Eton What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? My girlfriend gave me an antique silver ring from Nepal covered with red coral and turquoise.

What’s on your holiday wish list this year? Good health for my family. I never really wish for any special gifts; I prefer to go away on holiday with the people that are close to me. I would like to visit the Falkland Islands this year.

What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? I would really recommend one of our fantastic prints to add some flair to the modern gentleman's wardrobe.

GIANLUCA ISAIA, Isaia What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? The gift of passion for the Neapolitan tailoring tradition I received from my father before I could walk…since I still had a pacifier in my mouth!

What’s on your holiday wish list this year? Finding the strength to switch my cellphone off for at least one week…

What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? For the man who needs to stay warm it’s our down Babbà jacket in green Aquacashmere. I never take it off when I am visiting New York City in the winter. It gets freezing! (Which also means I cannot wear my Isaia leather flip flops with suits when walking on Madison Avenue during the cold season…)

ARNOLD SILVERSTONE, Samuelsohn What’s the best gift you’ve ever received? A sense of passion and integrity that I received from my parents; it defines who I am today and what I bring to everything that I do, including designing and my work.

What’s on your holiday wish list this year? Quality time spent with friends and family during the holidays. Given my busy schedule and constant travel, that would be the ultimate present.

What item from your collection would you suggest as the perfect gift? Our new travel top coat in pure cashmere (Loro Piana Storm System) is water and wrinkle resistant. It will keep you warm, dry and stylish; it’s the perfect travel companion.

profile L-R: Mike and Alex Faherty

OFF THE CLOCK FAHERTY OFFERS RELAXED LUXURY FOR A TIMELESS STYLE. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

Faherty is the quintessential off-duty, weekend brand. The collection’s luxurious fabrics and modern designs keep you completely comfortable while maintaining an effortless sense of cool. Every fabrication and pattern is hand-designed by cofounder Mike Faherty, giving the collection (and you) a unique look that no one else will have. Mike, who got his start designing for Ralph Lauren’s famed RRL brand, founded Faherty with his twin brother Alex (a former investment banker) in 2013. “We think customers are more interested than ever in smaller brands,” says Alex. “Faherty has an artisanal quality to it and we want to tell our story.” That story includes ethically sourced and sustainable materials like recycled poly and organic cotton manufactured in a factory using a closed-loop filtration system that reuses water. “Alex and I grew up wearing brands like Patagonia and we always wanted to create a company that makes sustainable decisions,” reveals Mike. Fall 2015 highlights include classic brushed flannels, lightweight poplins and natural-dyed indigo shirting. “Our shirting collection has this washed, vintage vibe to complement denim,” explains Mike. “We treat our plaid tops similarly to denim, creating a nice patina. We understand the wash for making new shirts feel old but still luxurious. Lightweight fabrics are also key for fall because they give you the seasonal look without heaviness.”

The fall collection focuses on shades of blue, experimenting with various indigo hues within the plaid patterns. “It’s less about multi-colored plaids this season and more about highlights of blue within the plaid with a dusty red or cream accent,” explains Mike. They’re also offering double-faced reversible printed/solid styles that can be worn two ways, making them the perfect shirts for travel or to take you from day to night. And keep an eye out for Faherty’s mobile beach house, a traveling store that gives the brothers the chance to meet their customers, stopping at stores across America. The “beach house on wheels,” which touts eco-friendly solar panels, recycled piping and reclaimed barn wood, offers an innovative venue for customers to experience the brand in a completely different way. “We’re finding success bridging the gap between fathers and sons,” reveals Mike. “The beach house allows us to meet likeminded guys who love our product. It’s been a lot of fun.”

style

family MATTERS ZEGNA, THE WORLD’S LARGEST MEN’S CLOTHING BRAND, CONTINUES TO INNOVATE. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

I believe passion is most integral to our success. I am constantly driven by the legacy I received from my father and the vision I would like to transmit to the next generation of the Zegna family.

What are Zegna’s most notable recent accomplishments? Stefano Pilati’s appointment as head of design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture was a bold step for our business. Moves like this set Zegna apart as a pioneer in menswear, continually pushing boundaries. With Stefano, we are expanding our product range to address a more fashion-oriented consumer. Our latest innovation within Z Zegna is Techmerino, our natural high-performance wool project, now offered as a complete wardrobe. Techmerino is highly breathable and provides perfect thermo-regulation against both hot and cold climates, keeping the skin dry and the body temperature constant as it maximizes the natural features of wool.

One doesn’t become the world’s largest men’s clothing maker by resting on one’s laurels. In fact, since Gildo Zegna’s grandfather bought his father’s textile looms in 1910, the company has done nothing but innovate. They were the first to focus on fabric technology, the first to provide a successful made-to-measure program, the first to embrace sportswear, and one of the few family businesses left in the fashion industry. Here, we speak with Gildo Zegna, part of the fourth generation of family to run the business, about challenges and change.

What do you see as your greatest challenges today? The changing dynamic of international customers is certainly a challenge today, due in part to currency fluctuations. This past year we’ve seen volatility in the currency markets, which requires us to navigate wisely. And of course, the role that online plays in today’s business challenges us to re-think how we provide the best shopping experience for our customers. Inevitably that leads us to an omnichannel approach, which we are embracing as the new reality.

What’s special about the Zegna brand? First and foremost, our dedication to fabric innovation and our pioneering spirit have driven our success. We are unique in that we are a completely vertical, multi-generational family-run business that is truly global. We now have a presence in over 100 countries around the world! More than anything else, our people and our collaborative culture differentiate us from our competitors. We always want to be the best at every business we enter so we strive for nothing less than the highest standard.

Zegna is a company that asks a lot of question of our customers, business partners and of ourselves. We’ve always listened closely to our local markets; this helps us to be better partners. In our constant drive for excellence, we not only challenge ourselves daily but we also welcome challenges from our customers.

We all recognize the challenges of a family business. So what makes yours work?

ISTOCK PHOTO

Could you talk a bit about your corporate culture and how it differs from other companies?

MAGAZINE

Always In Fashion Contact us for advertising details.

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designers

loving LIFE

CEREBRAL, SPIRITUAL, PHILOSOPHICAL, AND GENEROUS, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI ALSO MAKES BEAUTIFUL CLOTHES! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Brunello Cucinelli’s journey from selling a small collection of cashmere sweaters to becoming one of the world’s most admired luxury clothing designers is well documented. “I started selling sweaters in my 20s with only six styles. Soon six sweaters became 10 and the business started to blossom,” he says. “From the start, the people at the core of the company have been fundamental to the brand’s success. I’ve always put them first and center, creating a workplace dedicated to human dignity.” And it is Cucinelli’s restoration of his village, stone by stone, to improve the lives of his workers that makes him most proud. “The restoration of Solomeo had been a dream for quite some time,” he explains. “I am very passionate about leaving a legacy beyond clothing. This restoration has given new life to a once dying town, new job opportunities, and a new future for this part of Italy that I so love.” In addition to expanding the Solomeo factory, Cucinelli’s foundation has started a new phase of restoration called A Project for Beauty. “This is dedicated to preserving the land surrounding the village, which is divided into three parks. The industrial park is becoming filled with color and fragrance, the Lay Oratory park now

offers a youth center and sporting activities for young people, and the Agriculture Park is used for cropping vegetables, fruits, olive groves, orchards and trees; its produce will be used for local consumption and in the company dining halls.” Bottom line, Cucinelli’s business philosophy is firmly centered on human dignity. As he puts it, “We focus on respecting people and honoring them with responsibility. With responsibility comes creativity. As a result, our company is filled with dedicated individuals who are intrinsically connected to their work. It’s very important to me to nurture and preserve the core values of humanity; I want my employees to have a quality life filled with friends, family, and genuine warmth.” Asked about Cucinelli’s transition from a family business to part of a huge corporate conglomerate, he is candid. “Nothing has changed about our company, with the exception that we are even more efficient now that we have to make time in our schedules for investors and road shows. Going public has allowed us to have a more international vision for our brand and to have experts in the field share their opinions about our projects. But with all due respect, we will still be making decisions without altering our basic philosophy. My personal goal and our corporate goal are one in the same: to see this company grow steadily and graciously into the future.” And asked what brings him happiness, he is equally candid. “I am happy when I sit in front of the fire reading a great book in the quiet of my living room with my family nearby. I enjoy laughing and joking with my friends so I always make time to meet them for a weekly soccer match and then dinner. With my friends, I’ve had many moments of genuine, carefree fun.”

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fashion

Extends beyond natural shoulder, creating a stiff, boxy look. Shirt is baggy and billowy.

Jacket is too wide, adding visual bulk.

Cummerbund is outdated.

Pant rise is much too long. (Saggy crotch is never a good look!)

Sleeves are too long and wide.

Pants are too big, causing bunching and adding bulk.

TUXEDO TUNE-UP YOUR ONCE-STYLISH FORMAL SUIT IS DUE FOR AN UPDATE.

Jacket follows natural slope of shoulder.

Black is always acceptable, but why not try something new in blue?

Sleeves are slightly shorter to expose a bit of shirt cuff.

Peak lapels are still a great choice, but newer styles are slightly narrower and higher on the shoulder.

Shirt is sleek and fits close to the body.

No cummerbund is more modern.

Bottom of jacket hits at mid-hip.

Hem just grazes top of shoe.

IMAGES BY EVAN TAYLOR

Pants that fit closer to the leg take off pounds (and years)!

PHOTOGRAPHED BY EVAN TAYLOR GUNVILLE

formal&

FABULOUS! UPGRADE YOUR STYLE WITH THESE FRESH TAKES ON THE TUXEDO. (OR GO CUSTOM TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN...)

We put on formalwear, “and suddenly we become extraordinary” –Vera Nazarian

Update your look with blue or navy, a slimmer fit, a shawl

or peak lapel collar, or your own special customized details.

WOODS

out of the

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT

HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY

DIFFERENT COATS FOR DIFFERENT LIFESTYLES. DIFFERENT SEASONS, DIFFERENT REASONS.

THE MAN MAKES THE COAT AND THE COAT MAKES THE MAN

the FASHION forum

SINATRA STYLE

He coined the phrase “Saloon Songs”—those poignant tunes of unrequited love, sadness, and heartbreak that, according to contemporary crooner Michael Feinstein, are meant to be experienced “with a cigarette in one hand and a drink in the other…” In celebration of the centennial of Frank Sinatra’s birth, it seems the entire country is focusing on not just the music of America’s favorite cultural icon, but also his influence on fashion. The fedora worn at an angle, the soft shoulder suit with a slightly shorter length jacket and trouser, the loosely knotted tie all still look as fresh and appealing as they did a few decades back. A recent exhibit at the New York Public Library for Performing Arts at Lincoln Center, “Sinatra: An American Icon,” confirms our theory: Sinatra’s style is as timeless as his eversoulful songs. —Karen Alberg Grossman

While few dads in recent years have shown excessive enthusiasm for the prototypical Christmas gift—the dreaded necktie—today’s fashionable fathers appreciate the value and versatility of this timeless accessory. They know natty neckwear can be worn to the office, to a weekend party, or to a casual dinner out. Clearly narrower than in years past, ties now use fabrics ranging from smooth silks to textured wovens in everything from vividly-hued solids to subtle patterns. For extra oomph, try a tie bar, which can add the perfect finishing touch to any outfit. Just make sure it extends no further than the width of your tie and that it holds the front and back of your tie to your shirt placket. A new tie is the perfect gift for a new generation, and a great way to stand out from the crowd! —Jillian LaRochelle

SINATRA: KEN VEEDER/CAPTIOL PHOTO ARCHIVES; KNOT: COURTESY OF ETON

KNOT A PROBLEM

BROADWAY’S BEST DRESSED MEN

Men looking for sartorial guidance need look no further than Broadway’s current leading men. Celebrities who know how to dress-to-impress showed their sartorial style on opening nights and the awards circuit last spring. Tony Award winner Alex Sharp lived up to his last name in natty tailored suits and sportcoats, often in whites and off-whites, which play well off his slim frame. Tall, dark and handsome dancer Robert Fairchild was not just quick on his feet, but always impeccably groomed from head-to-toe. Meanwhile, 2014 Tony winner James Monroe Iglehart (left) was a true friend to fashion, proving that larger men can look spectacular in checks, stripes, and patterns. And fan favorites such as Brian d’Arcy James (far left), Andrew Rannells, Tony Yazbeck, David Burtka, Max von Essen, Matthew Morrison and Andy Karl were among the latest crop of stars who redefined dashing while showing off their impeccable taste in both classic (and not-soclassic) formalwear. Bravo, gentlemen! —Brian Scott Lipton

CULT OF CELEBRITY BROADWAY: GETTY IMAGES; CLOONEY: COURTESY OF OMEGA WATCHES

In recent years, top-name designers of fashion, accessories, and fragrance have begun using more A-list celebrities to convince us to purchase their worthy wares. John Varvatos featured the faces of rock n’ roll gods Kiss and Ringo Starr in two recent ad campaigns; soccer superstar David Beckham, New York Rangers goalie Henrik Lundqvist, and teen idol Justin Bieber have bared almost all in underwear ads; and Chanel even convinced Hollywood hunk Brad Pitt to pitch their perfume to both men and women. Now, famed watch brand Omega has asked brand ambassador George Clooney for some modeling time, filming the silver-haired stud on a motorcycle to promote the company’s Speedmaster ‘57. Of course, it might be hard to focus on the watch while your eyes are fixed on the face of Tinseltown’s most handsome leading man. —Brian Scott Lipton

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wheels

WHAT DRIVES HIM? HOW RACE CAR DRIVING PREPARED ROBERT TALBOTT CEO BOB CORLISS FOR BUSINESS AND FOR LIFE. BY DAVID A. ROSE How did you first get into race car driving? My parents were enthusiastic racing fans and would drag me to various motorsports events. When we didn’t go to an event we’d watch it on television; it was part of growing up in Europe. Because so few roads in Europe had speed limits, I was never intimidated by speed. I always seemed to live close to a race circuit and I loved waking up to the distant sound of race engines. I’d drive out to the circuit to see what was going on and would always meet really cool people. One day I was looking to buy a trailer to transport my car, but when I found the ideal trailer, it happened to have a Formula Continental race car on it. The owner told me he’d sell me the trailer but I’d have to take the car with it.

So how did race car driving prepare you to run such a prestigious apparel company? There are numerous aspects of racing that can be directly applied to business. Anything that tunes your mind, your body or your spirit will help you focus and prepare, whether it’s for racing, designing, marketing or selling a clothing collection. Racing keeps you sharp by making you aware of your competition, thereby helping you adapt quickly to

unexpected situations. Flexibility, focus, drive: all are attributes of success. Another is persistence. It’s easy to get discouraged in motor racing; things go wrong mechanically, or you make a mistake and crash, or somebody else makes a mistake and runs you off the track. It‘s easy to say “I’ve had enough.” There are many parallels in life: if you break it all down and understand the emotions that motivate you, then you can persevere in other situations. It’s a constant learning experience that makes you a better business manager. Anybody who’s been around racing knows it’s the support team that’s most critical to success. The car must be mechanically sound so the driver feels safe in it; the communication from driver to crew must be perfectly clear in order to optimize the effort. If you trust the race car and have figured out all the variables, the car will do exactly what you ask it to do. But if you ask it to do 1/10th more, the consequences are pretty severe. Similarly, anybody in management knows that the leader is only as good as the least experienced person in the company. The employees have trust in you and you have trust in them; you try to lead from the front. If you inspire them and clearly communicate how their roles fit into the overall vision of the company, if you provide them with an avenue for both personal and professional growth, then you’re likely to achieve your goals. When people attend a race, they often want to go to the pits to see how things work; afterwards, they realize that it’s one thing to sit in the stands and feel the excitement, but the real drama happens with the preparation of the car. Every team member must do their job perfectly before the driver climbs into the cockpit. And it’s the same in business: every person must perform exceptionally in order for the company to win.

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travel

EXPERIENCE NEEDED

I OBSERVED THAT MY FRIENDS WERE REDIRECTING THEIR TRAVEL PLANS TOWARDS LIFE-ENRICHING EXPERIENCES.” — TREVOR TRAINA 46

Decades ago, the standard in luxury travel was staying in five-star hotels, dining in Michelin-starred restaurants, and perhaps getting a private tour of a museum, led by an art expert. These days, high-end travelers are looking not just to spend a few nights in Paris, but to indulge in once-in-a-lifetime experiences. They may still go to Paris (and even stay at the Four Seasons), but that trip might now include a front-row seat at a Paris fashion show followed by a visit to designer Coco Chanel’s atelier. Celebrity worshippers might prefer to not just attend the Sundance Film Festival in Utah, but also go to one of those buzzed-about private parties with the stars, while thrill-seeking travelers will not pass up a chance to go ballooning over the Napa Valley before sipping wine in its famous vineyards. “I observed that my friends were redirecting their travel plans towards life-enriching experiences,” says Trevor Traina, explaining why he founded Californiabased membership-site ifonly.com three years ago. “So I built a website offering some of the coolest experiences available. I’m always amazed by how broad people’s interests are, and how many people want to do things that enrich their imaginations.” To make his

LUXURY VACATIONS REACH THE NEXT LEVEL. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

Right: Tibetan monks; Left: books by Diane von Furstenberg

I TRAVEL CONSTANTLY, GOING EVERYWHERE I CAN, ALWAYS LOOKING FOR THE MOST INTERESTING EXPERIENCES I CAN OFFER MY CLIENTS.” — VICTORIA HOFFMAN clients’ dreams come true, Traina works with organizations like Sotheby’s and American Express, as well as many charities, to help create his one-of-a-kind packages. They have spanned from that Napa Valley balloon trip to having tea in Manhattan with fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg, cooking with San Francisco-based chef Gary Danko or sitting down to a private dinner at the Doge’s Palace in Venice, Italy. The IfOnly team spends many hours in the lead-up to each trip making sure everything meets the highest standards. “Every experience is vetted before we offer it,” says Traina. “Sometimes, we send someone with the client to make sure everything goes perfectly, and our team always spends a great deal of time with clients beforehand so they know what to expect.” Moreover, while the website offers thousands of experiences at any one time, members are encouraged to come up with their own vacation-of-a-lifetime ideas. “Even if it’s not listed on the website, we can make it happen,” he promises. Victoria Hoffman, owner of conciergebyvictoria.com, is also among the entrepreneurs who specialize in making fantasy vacations a reality. Hoffman, who has an extensive background in travel and marketing, creates customized, experience-based trips for the most discerning customers using her large network of friends around the world. As a result, Hoffman can arrange anything from taking part in France’s famed Tour de France bicycle race, going on a guided tour of British artist’s Damien Hirst’s studio, visiting a monastery in Tibet overseen by the Dalai Lama, cooking with one of Europe’s greatest chefs or learning to blend your own cognac. “I travel constantly, going everywhere I can, always looking for the most interesting experiences I can offer my clients,” says Hoffman. Her site also offers the chance to grab the “in” ticket for some of

the world’s most coveted events, including the BAFTA (British Academy of Film and Television) Awards, Art Basel and golf’s Ryder Cup. She will also make sure you’re lodged luxuriously no matter which experience you choose. “I make sure the tourism offices of these countries let me know about their newest and most extraordinary properties, so I can check them out personally when I visit. Whether you want to stay in a private castle, a villa or a fivestar hotel, I can make it happen.” Another excellent option for those seeking the up-close-and-personal experience is to attend local charity events that include extraordinary auction prizes. For example, as part of the Grand Auction held every September in New York City as part of Broadway Cares/Equity Fights AIDS’ annual Flea Market, you can purchase backstage visits and walk-on parts to Broadway’s hottest shows (bcefa.org), while the New York Pops, one of the world’s finest symphonies, serves up a chance to conduct the orchestra on the stage of the legendary Carnegie Hall as part of the auction held at their star-studded Birthday Gala each spring (nypops.org). You can also bid on the many auctions held on charitybuzz.com. Earlier this year, in the same day, you could place dibs on a visit to the set of Downton Abbey at London’s Ealing Studio, complete with a meet-and-greet with some of the cast members; a chance to be interviewed by talk show legend Larry King in Los Angeles (as well as receive a personalized voicemail recording); lunch with television star Mark Feuerstein on the set of his TV show Royal Pains; the opportunity to spend four days learning to be a Grand Prix race car driver in Arizona; or a ride on the Goodyear Blimp. Like many of the offerings now available to the savvy traveler, the experience will give you an all-time high.

FALL ‘15 COLLECTION

grooming

BARBERSHOP WISDOM AMERICA’S MASTER STYLISTS ON THIS SEASON’S TRENDS. BY STEPHEN GARNER

Any man who has ever had a proper haircut or shave after visiting a barber invariably leaves the shop a little savvier than before. Barbers not only cut hair and maintain beards, they also impart wisdom to those men smart enough to listen. We spoke to a few style gurus from around the country about what’s happening in their shops and about how to best update your look.

GO NATURAL. One consistent tip we heard from all the barbers we interviewed was to loosen up on the styling. Rob McMillen of the original Blind Barber location in Manhattan’s East Village says, “In past seasons we have seen a shorter, more technical look; guys are now experimenting by keeping things a little loose and deconstructed.” Joe Caccavella Jr. of Joe’s Barbershop in Chicago agrees: “Looser and more natural cuts are the majority of what we see here in Chicago’s Logan Square neighborhood.” It seems men are now striving for a perfect balance between refined and relaxed.

BUY A BLOW-DRYER. “The benefits of

From top: Baxter Finley, Blind Barber, Barber of Hell’s Bottom, Fellow Barber

blow-drying are underappreciated by men today,” says West Hollywood master barber Christopher James of Baxter Finley. “Men with thinning hair can make their hair appear thicker, you can create volume that lasts throughout the day, and you can control problem areas like cowlicks and whorls.” Nothing sets a style like a blast of heat before adding product.

DON’T BE AFRAID OF PRODUCT. If your dad’s styling regimen began and

ended with a comb, you might not know where to start in the world of waxes, pomades and creams. Ask your barber for a recommendation. He can guide you to the one that will help you achieve the right look for your cut. Monty Howard of Knoxville’s Frank’s Barbershop says, “You never know what your hair is capable of until you try. Styling your hair without adding the right finishing product would be like mowing the lawn without doing the trim or raking away the cut grass.”

CONTROL YOUR BEARD. It seems as if every other guy you see walking down the street these days is sporting some kind of facial hair, and the jury is still out on this sudden surge. “Guys are enjoying testing out how long they can grow their beards now, and as long as the look works for you, I say go for it,” says Richie Pearce of the Brooklyn outpost of Fellow Barber. Still, should you keep that beard for fall? Go ahead; just make sure to maintain it. As Mike Charland of D.C.’s Barber of Hell’s Bottom points out: “Just because one has a beard doesn't mean it needs to be as long as the guys’ from ZZ Top. Whatever the length, keep it clean and manicured.” THE TAKEAWAY. Loosen up your styling for a fresher feel. Rock that beard, but have it shaped up every few weeks and keep it clean and smelling fresh. Don't be ashamed to grab a blow-dryer and some products to help create a hairstyle that expresses your individuality. And lastly, trust your barber's professional opinion-—and tip him well!

world scene

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Experience life’s little luxuries. CATCH A FALLING STAR The town of Churchill in Manitoba, Canada is

BRAD JOSEPHS

located directly beneath the Van Allen Belt: a layer of energy-charged particles that surrounds the Earth’s polar regions, creating one of the heaviest concentrations of auroral activity in the world and making this unique spot among the best places on the planet to view the Northern Lights. This year you can stargaze in complete comfort in the Aurora Pod, created by Natural Habitat Adventures. This exclusive, custom-built structure featuring geometric glass construction (from waistheight up) is fully heated and equipped with reclining chairs for a 360-degree, unobstructed view of the celestial phenomenon. To complete the experience, naturalist expedition leaders provide information about Northern Canada’s geology, history, wildlife, cultures and, of course, the Aurora Borealis.

DASHING THROUGH THE SNOW The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel, located in Alberta's Banff National Park amid mountain peaks, the majestic Victoria Glacier and a glistening emerald lake, has worldclass skiing, a luxury spa and exceptional dining. There’s also the Brewster Stables which, during the winter months, can arrange for you to be whisked away on a truly lovely sleigh ride to the end of Lake Louise. The sleighs are traditionally styled with cozy upholstered seats and blankets to keep you warm and comfortable. You can order hot chocolate and a picnic lunch to be served during the ride. To make the day even more memorable, pop open a bottle of Champagne and toast the holidays.

FOLLOW THE FOOD TRAIL In the heart of Napa Valley, the chic little town of Yountville affords an array of fine lodging, golf, art galleries, antique stores and performing arts venues. However, its main claim to fame is the gourmet mile, made up of a collection of renowned (many Michelin-starred) restaurants. Take a stroll along this impressive stretch and discover some of the best food and wine in America. Among the most notable is Lucy Restaurant & Bar at the fashionable Bardessono Hotel, which offers sommelier-led food and wine tastings and a chance to walk through Chef Victor’s kitchen garden. (During harvest season you can book a garden party with the chef.) Right down the street is Thomas Keller’s famed French Laundry (scheduled to reopen this fall) and his other eateries, Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery and Ad Hoc. Keller’s Kitchen Garden is nearby and you’re welcome to drop in any time. You could also join the Chocolate Club at Kollar Chocolates, where Chef Kollar creates artistic confections. And the Secret Garden at Hill Family Estate, which supplies ingredients to the French Laundry and other area restaurants, will take you on an hour-long guided tasting tour. This is clearly no place to count calories.

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YOUNG LION WHY WE’LL ALWAYS LOVE JIM MORRISON. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

IMAGES BY JOEL BRODSKY COURTESY OF MORRISON HOTEL GALLERY

There’s something about Jim Morrison: a haunting juxtaposition of sexuality and innocence, so brilliantly captured in Joel Brodsky’s photographs. Reflecting Morrison’s vulnerability along with his rebelliousness, Grammy-nominated Brodsky did nine album covers for The Doors. “Jim was shy,” recalls Brodsky’s widow Valerie at a recent Morrison Hotel Gallery reception in Manhattan. “I remember a photo shoot when he spent much time playing with our daughter rather than talking to adults. But when the camera was on him, he came alive. He was the quintessential showman.” Beneath the inner shyness, outer surliness and struggle with drugs and alcohol that led to his ultimate demise (in 1971 at age 27), Jim Morrison was his music: soulful, tormented, filled with longing. And it is precisely this longing (perfectly expressed in his beautiful baritone) that touches us still, even those who now reject the counterculture values of the 1960s. Despite the popularity of his music (and his poetry) with a new generation, Morrison presents a bit of a conflict for those of us beyond the era of sex, drugs, and rock ’n roll. Singer Patti Smith once put it this way: “Watching him perform the first time, I felt both kinship and contempt…” But who can argue with essayist Daniel Nester, who observes, “Just talking about Jim Morrison, I dare say, makes us old men feel young and free again.”

FALL 2015 MARKS THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY OF BILLS KHAKIS. What started as one pair of original WWII khakis and an idea, has grown into a brand that symbolizes the spirit of American manufacturing and quality. You have dutifully worn through pair after pair, faithfully coming back to replace that which has grown so familiar. Thank you for finding both value and purpose in what we do.

INSIGHT FROM A STYLIST. BY NICOLA HARRISON RUIZ “He needs your help,” Daniel’s wife implored. “He’s got nothing to wear.” As a personal stylist I’d heard this before, but in Daniel’s case something didn’t add up. I’d met him before and he was always impeccably dressed. When I arrived at his apartment for the wardrobe edit, his closet was just as I’d expected: meticulously organized, full of custom suits, shirts and polished dress shoes. “Where’s the rest?” I inquired, and was directed to a drawer with a lonely pair of baggy jeans a few scraggly T-shirts. It turned out that this man, like many guys, was put together at all times for his colleagues and business associates, but was a “weekend slob” when it came time to be with his beautiful wife and child. “What do you wear on date night?” I asked. He shrugged. “I just throw on jeans with my dress shirt from the office.” “And on Saturday if you go out for brunch?” He pulled out a wrinkled, faded T-shirt and old college sweatshirt. “Shoes?” I asked. He pointed to the sneakers he wears to the gym. Ironically, it was his colleagues, friends and strangers on the subway who had the pleasure of experiencing Dapper Daniel. His wife—the person who vowed to look at him day in and day out for the rest of her life—was the one who got the sloppy leftovers, and she was clearly disappointed that he wasn’t making an effort. The problem was simple; when it came to buying casual clothes, Daniel didn’t know where to

start. He would walk into a large department store, feel overwhelmed by what can be a poorly organized selection and walk back out the door. To start, we shopped for slim-fitting, dark jeans that were dressy enough for dinner but comfortable enough to wear while sitting on the floor to play with his little boy. We also found some great five-pocket twill pants to wear as a denim alternative. We bought sport shirts so that he never had to be reminded of his days FASHION at the office while out with friends FAUX PAS His crime: on the weekend, a vest to layer on sacrificing style on the weekend. chilly Saturday mornings when he walked the dog and picked up coffee, and a so-soft sportcoat that was just as comfortable as that old college sweatshirt. Some streamlined leather sneakers we picked up (his wife’s favorite new addition) means Daniel can stop committing the biggest weekend wear faux pas of all: wearing gym sneakers with his jeans! One thing I’ve learned while working as a personal stylist is that most guys want to look good, but often feel insecure when it comes to selecting clothes and dressing well. Yet, as soon as they have a few new outfits in their closet that fit them well, are on trend for the season and are easy to put together, they often experience a huge surge of personal confidence. If you’re the kind of guy who shies away from shopping, reach out to someone who specializes in this field. You don’t need to hire a personal stylist: a good sales associate will know how to fit and flatter you by asking a few lifestyle questions and looking at your body type and skin tone. Before you go shopping, make a list of items that will complete your closet. Your sales associate can do this if you opt for a home visit. Let the pros help cure you of your weekend wardrobe woes. Your wife will be forever grateful.

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DRESSING UP THE WEEKEND WARDROBE

Save the Date ~ 2016

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