Hubert White by Fashion Forum Magazine

Forum • The Substance of Style • Fall 2016

Excellence in Made to Measure Tailoring Su Misura offers the privilege of designing a wardrobe that perfectly reflects your individuality and the tailoring excellence of artisan craftsmanship. It guarantees a choice of over 500 exclusive fabrics, including Trofeo, 15MilMil15, High Performance and Elements Trofeo-Cashmere.

100 Years!

Looking forward to our next century, we have added two new shops within our shop.

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That’s what we are celebrating this year. One hundred years ago my grandfather, Hubert “Bert” White, opened a small haberdashery shop in downtown St. Paul. Ten decades, six locations and four generations of Whites later, we now have the honor of celebrating a century in business. Check out our decade-by-decade history beginning on page 9 of this issue, where you will also see a photo of our current staff. I want to thank them, and all of our past staff members, for making our 100 years possible. Also in this issue is a section of quotes from our friends and key partners. Whether from Italy, Sweden, Canada or America, the common thread is the sense of family, respect and dedication to excellence that these companies all share with Hubert White. Looking forward to our next century, we have added two new shops within our shop. A second Eton shop was added to feature their casual offerings, and a new Robert Talbott shop is also to be added so we can present their entire collection in one cohesive space. See you in the shop this fall!

Bob White and all of the Hubert White team.

CONTENTS

Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Jean-Nicole Venditti, Darin Vogel CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

FEATURES 9 23 34 38 42 44

Hubert White’s 100-Year History Vendor Testimonials Profile: Baldassari Profile: PT01 Why a Multi-Brand Store? Profile: We Norwegians

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM

FASHION

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

40 Quality: Hallmarks of Top Tailoring 48 Menswear Rules 54 Architecture of Style

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

DEPARTMENTS 2 32 36 46 66 70 74 76

Welcome Letter Ask Brad Designers: The Giving Season Man of Style: Anthony Whitaker The Fashion Forum Travel: Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit Wheels: Autonomous Vehicles End Page: The Card Game

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Watch Classic, Sport, Technical,

Luxury…what’s your style? Explore the JB Hudson extensive watch collection featuring Cartier, Omega, IWC and more.

Pantaloni Torino congratulates Hubert White on100 years of service and style.

We love Codices, the ancient messengers of Art and Culture.

Illuminated page from â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pantheonâ&#x20AC;? by Godfrey of Viterbo, Italy, 1331

One Hundred years ago it began…

Hubert (Bert) White

In 1916, my grandfather, Hubert (Bert) White, and my grandmother, Jeanne Lichty White, were newlyweds in their 20s. They had a meeting with her father and my great-grandfather, George Lichty, to secure financing ($5,600, though more was to follow) to start the business that was Bert White’s dream. He wanted to establish a haberdashery and clothing shop that would be recognized as one of the country’s finest. The fulfillment of that dream was his life’s work, as well as my Dad’s, as well as mine. He received the financing, along with a $200 per month salary, and started Hubert W. White. The following pages are a brief glimpse into our past 100 years. - Bob White

1920s

for the first time more americans lived in cities than on farms

The original downtown St. Paul store

Did you know? • The first commercial radio broadcast aired in 1920 • In 1927 Minnesota native Charles Lindberg flies solo across the Atlantic • The Foshay Tower is completed in 1929 • Prohibition begins in the U.S. • Time Magazine was founded • Flappers dominate fashion • Bubble gum and sliced bread were invented

1920 - 1929

1930s

Hubert white opens in minneapolis in 1936

Hubert (Bert) White

The new Minneapolis store in the Radisson Hotel

Did you know? • The Great Depression begins • Empire State Building completed • Air conditioning invented • World War II begins • Gone With the Wind and Wizard of Oz movies premiere • U.S. adopts the National Anthem

1930 - 1939

1940s

The ’40s... america at war Did you know? • The Zoot Suit arrives • Mount Rushmore completed • World War II ends in 1945 • Minnesota’s first TV station KSTP opens • Holiday movie It’s a Wonderful Life premieres • Jackie Robinson joins the Dodgers, becoming the first black player in the Major Leagues • Cheerios first introduced

St. Paul store features a complete hat department

Bert White with partner Pax Meeker

1940 - 1949

The Minneapolis store moves to Marquette Avenue, where it stays for the next 50 years. Dad, Hubert (Bill) W. White, Jr., returns from the war and the transition from Bert to Bill begins. Ties are narrow, hats plentiful and outfitting men is our only business – and remains so today.

1950s

narrow ties and flat-front trousers

Hubert (Bill) White

A young Bill White returns from military service

Tartan formalwear in the Minneapolis display window

Did you know? • Ivy League style becomes a fashion statement • First modern credit card introduced • Color TV premieres in 1951 • Disneyland opens in 1955 • Velcro and Lego toy bricks hit the shelves

1950 - 1959

1960s

man Walks on the moon

Bill White with the Hathaway Man

Shoe display with Memorial Stadium in the background

Did you know? • First James Bond movie premieres • Johnny Carson takes over The Tonight Show in 1962 • Beatlemania hits America • Miniskirt introduced in 1965 • In 1968 Hubert Humphrey runs for president and narrowly loses to Richard Nixon • Neil Armstrong becomes the first man on the moon in 1969

1960 - 1969

1970s

polyester shirts and disco... need we say more?

Bob White shows off the newly remodeled St. Paul store

The St. Paul store features Allan Peterson, Byron Webster and Sam Nakanishi

Did you know?

A dated display of modern fabrics

• The IDS Tower is completed in 1972 • Bill Gates starts Microsoft in 1975 • Pocket calculators introduced • M.A.S.H. TV show premieres • Saturday Night Live premieres in 1975 • Hank Aaron passes Babe Ruth’s career home run record April 8, 1974 – hitting his 715th home run

1970 - 1979

1980s

we enter (and leave) women’s wear

The Whites: (left to right) Bob, Hubert (Bill) and Gregg

Did you know? • The Official Preppy Handbook is published in 1980 • In 1981 personal computers (PC) introduced by IBM • New York Stock Exchange suffers Black Monday in 1987 • In 1987 Hubert White closes the St. Paul store • The Metrodome opens in Minneapolis • Fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 • World Wide Web launched in 1989

1980 - 1989

1990s

Younger looks and looking forward to the future

Brad Sherman at the neckwear barge

The Minneapolis staff on the new grand staircase

Matt White poses for a photo shoot

Bob and Brad with Coach Glen Mason

Did you know? The beloved Mike Marchio

• Grunge becomes fashion • Auction website eBay is founded in 1995 • April 1997 Tiger Woods wins his first Major (The Masters) at age 21 • Titanic becomes the most successful movie ever • In 1991 the Twins win their second World Series in four years

1990 - 1999

2000-2009

Hubert White moves to the IDS Center

Hubert White featured in Twin Cities Monthly in 2000

Father and son photo of Bob and Matt

Did you know? • In 2001 Steve Jobs introduces the iPod • 9/11/2001 attack on the Twin Towers shocks the world • 2006 Esquire Magazine names Hubert White to their Gold Standard, a group of the 35 finest men’s specialty stores across the country • Barack Obama becomes the first African-American president • Facebook is launched

2000 - 2009

The new IDS Crystal Court store

2010 - Present

Hubert White celebrates a century!

Today’s Hubert White team

Did you know? • The U.S. Rover, Curiosity, takes a selfie on Mars in 2012 • In 2015 American Pharoah becomes the first horse in 37 years to win the Triple Crown of horse racing • The Minnesota Vikings finish construction on a brand-new stadium • 2016 Nicollet Mall undergoes a complete renovation

This 100-year history of a family business dedicated to style and service makes all of us at Hubert White proud, but it’s looking toward the next 100 years that really excites us. Many things will change as technology and fashion work together, but our dedication to our loyal clients will forever remain a constant. Thank you for being a part of our story.

2010 - Present

Congratulations TO HUBERT WHITE ON 100 YEARS OF OUTSTANDING SERVICE, QUALITY AND GOOD TASTE.

Congratulations,

Hubert White on 100 stylish years.

BUILD. ENJOY. LEAVE A LEGACY.â&#x201E;¢

www.meristemfw.com

Stephen Granovsky Hubert White is one of the finest menswear retailers in America. As a 93-year-old brand, at Samuelsohn we appreciate what it takes to not only survive but thrive for so long. It is an incredible honor to congratulate Bob and the extended Hubert White family on their 100th anniversary. Hubert White is a testament to the endurance of craftsmanship, style and service. We look forward to the many years of partnership to come.

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— Stephen Granovsky, CEO of Samuelsohn

Gianluca Isaia

It has been an honor and a pleasure to have Hubert White as a partner over the years. We look forward to celebrating future successes with you!

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— Gianluca Isaia, President of Isaia

Canali Family Heritage and tradition are at the heart of our family values as well as of the relationships we value most. Congratulations to Hubert White on this momentous milestone and the many more to come.

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— Eugenio Canali, Managing Director of Canali

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Brunello Cucinelli Working with Hubert White has been an incredibly rewarding experience. I admire their dedication to quality and vision to create something beautiful for menswear. Most importantly, they execute a client-driven organization. Focusing on strong relationships and putting people at the core is something I have always believed is at the root of a successful business. The partnership that Bob and Brad have developed over the past 30 years is an inspiration to us all and I feel honored to be working with such an incredible team.

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— Brunello Cucinelli, CEO of Brunello Cucinelli

Gildo Zegna My heartfelt congratulations to Hubert White on 100 years of success and 30 years as our valued partner. Ermenegildo Zegna is also a family business and I greatly respect the legacy that Bob White has built with our similar family values in mind. I look forward to much continued success with Hubert White as an influential shopping destination in Minneapolis.

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— Gildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna Group

Bob Corliss Visit the dynamic Hubert White store in downtown Minneapolis and you’ll see how Bob and his family have hit the centenary mark: they treat people with respect and candor, building loyalty that spills over into the care they invest in the customer experience. Of the 100 years that they have been in business, Hubert White and Robert Talbott have worked together for at least 50 of them! It’s truly been a pleasure doing business with them and, from one family to another, we wish them the best of luck for the next 100 years. Congratulations!

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— Bob Corliss, CEO of Robert Talbott

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Hans Davidson I remember seven years ago when we started working with Bob and Brad from Hubert White. We all saw the potential. But to think that we would end up where we are today, with not only an amazing business together, but even more important, a relationship founded on a mutual respect and appreciation for what we do, exceeded all my expectations. Hubert White is one of the best stores and we are proud to be here. On behalf of all our team, we would like to wish you a happy 100th anniversary and we look forward to many more years of great partnership.

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— Hans Davidson, CEO of Eton

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Bob Denton Hubert White and Oxxford Clothes have been working alongside each other for 70 years, making them our oldest client to date. This year, we both celebrate our centennials and would like to congratulate our partners on their longevity! Our archives show a century of changes in menswear, through fabric and style evolution, price fluctuations and marketing campaigns. The most important element that remains constant between the companies is dedication to quality. Hubert White has always focused on providing the best-quality merchandise and customer service to their clients. In 1976 during NY market week, I had the pleasure of meeting Bob and his father at a Men’s Apparel Forum event. At the time, I was with Norton Ditto of Houston, and Bob was helping his father manage the store. These Forum meetings were a great chance to learn, observe and develop relationships with people like Bob White. He has guided Hubert White through many chapters and enhanced their reputation as one of the best stores in the country for the past 40 years. Congratulations from all of us at Oxxford Clothes to Bob, Brad and the entire Hubert White family on your 100th anniversary!

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— Bob Denton, President of Oxxford Clothes

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Julie Allinson Eyebobs first hit the Hubert White floor in January of 2002, and the rest is history. They truly gave me my start, and their commitment to style and excellence in men’s fashion inspires me to this day.

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— Julie Allinson, President of Eyebobs

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ask

Brad Can I wear brown shoes with black, navy or gray suits? Yes! We love various shades of brown and tan with dark suits: it’s perfectly appropriate, and very Italian!

My girlfriend tells me I’m in a “fashion rut,” that my wardrobe is both boring and dated. (I wear mostly khakis and nice button-down shirts.) How do I update my look? Personal style is about knowing yourself, your comfort zone and the image you want to project. Here are a few easy suggestions: 1) Throw on a soft sportcoat or cardigan: it adds instant “attitude,” requires no special fashion savvy and gives you pockets to keep stuff. If you dare, try a printed silk square in the pocket of the sportcoat. (No need to fuss with it: our sellers will show you the most simple folds.) 2) Instead of your basic khakis, try five-pocket pants in luxury fabrics with stretch. These are comfortable, fashionable and the fit is amazing. 3) Invest in a great leather belt. 4) Consider a custom shirt. They’re not much more expensive than regular shirts, but they’re a lot sexier. 5) Call us and make an appointment for a closet update; we’ll send over one of our personal

FALL 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM shoppers. There’s no pressure to buy, just great ideas to upgrade and update your wardrobe for a fashionable fall/winter ’16.

I have a friend who buys custom suits from a Chinese maker who periodically shows at local hotels. Can this be a reliable source for good clothing? Probably not. Anyone with a tape measure and a few swatches can call himself a custom clothier; the critical issues are the accuracy of the measurements, the quality of the suit (fabric, interlinings, construction) and what recourse you have if you’re not satisfied. The advantages of buying custom clothing from an independent menswear store are many: a vast selection of made-to-measure options from the finest brands; expert in-house tailors for accurate adjustments; and guaranteed top quality. For what’s the point of having a suit that fits if the fabric is inferior, or if the interlinings are glued rather than sewn? (And try tracking them down in Hong Kong when your “custom” suit comes back from the dry cleaner with ripples…) As always: caveat emptor.

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Italian

DRESSING

MILANESE FAMILY BUSINESS BALDASSARI CREATES CLOTHING THAT SUITS BOTH ITS HOMELAND AND THE WORLD. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON he Baldassari family doesn’t need to look far to find inspiration for its beautiful line of clothing; in fact, a glance out of the office windows in the fashionable Brera section of Milan, Italy (the city’s equivalent of SoHo in New York) usually does the trick. “We doublecheck our collection every day through the people in our own neighborhood,” says Renato Baldassari, who now runs the business (along with his brother Alberto) that was founded over 30 years ago by his father, Maurizio. “People in the street come up to us and ask about a particular fabric. The idea of bringing Milan and the Milanese look to our clients always stays with us. What we try to do is create a wardrobe for all occasions, whether it’s having an aperitivo in a café in Brera or going to the opening night at La Scala.” The commitment to Italy is hardly surprising. Maurizio Baldassari, who remains active in the business, has been a member of Italy’s fashion community his whole life. In fact, early in his career, he worked as the head of fashion purchasing in one of Milan’s most famous department stores—alongside future designer Giorgio Armani. The company sources

its fabric in the famed Biella region and uses Milanese weaving to accomplish its look. While Baldassari clothing first took off in the Far East (the company is still a major presence at the Japanese department store Takashimaya and can be found in many of China’s finest shops), much of the focus today is on appealing to the American consumer, who can be seen wearing a Baldassari overcoat to the office, a soft-shouldered sport jacket to dinner, or a sweater for a weekend outing. “Americans are very precise when it comes to dressing up. It’s about the perfect cuff or the right drape. They are always striving for excellence,” says Renato. “But we’ve also found they can be very open-minded when it comes to color or pattern, and have been very welcoming to the looks we create. There’s no pressure on our part to just make a black suit. And that’s also one of the great things about being in a family business. We don’t really worry about what the rest of the industry is doing or about chasing trends. While we’re very sensitive about our relationship with our selling partners, the bottom line is we’re able to make and sell what we like.”

designers

THE GIVING SEASON OUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS OPEN THEIR HEARTS (AND WALLETS) TO AN ARRAY OF CHARITABLE CAUSES. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI “My vision first and foremost has always been to create a company based on human dignity. Eight years ago, my wife and I created the Brunello and Federica Cucinelli Foundation to nourish the humanist aspirations born in Solomeo. Through art and academics we have put emphasis on creating a work environment full of life and inspiration.

ARNOLD SILVERSTONE, SAMUELSOHN

“I felt in order to create a beautiful product, my employees needed to be

“Recently established in memory of our executive chairman, The Lawrence Pollack Foundation will be the main philanthropic

working in a beautiful place, where their creativ-

endeavor for Luxury Men’s Apparel Group and its compa-

ity could flourish.

nies, which include Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman

Solomeo is the heart of

Tailored Clothing. The primary focus will be on children

where we work and where

in need—both those with special needs as well as those

product is created. The

with financial needs.

environment is tranquil

“Just last year, with Lawrence as the key catalyst, we contributed a large gift to Make-A-Wish Foundation and it filled Lawrence with joy. Since his passing in April, we’ve raised funds towards ambucycles in Israel. The ambucycle program provides initial response in emergencies until first responders arrive.

and serene. It is important to me that our employees work in a place rich with history, beauty and humanity. The Foundation aims to have a direct influence on human values, under-

“The Lawrence Pollack

stood as being the rela-

Foundation and associat-

tionship between people and various activities in society. “The Foundation’s first project was the Forum of the Arts, which

ed events are currently in development.

began with the creation of a theatre. The theatre allows art, culture

Once there is more

and spirituality to come together in a place that encourages

specific information,

absolute freedom of thought and religion and continues toward the

we will share through

development of human knowledge. We also created the academy,

our company websites. We hope you will join us in

which is a library home to ancient and modern texts. Our most recent development, “A Project for Beauty,” is dedicated to reviving

making a difference in children’s lives,

the land of Umbria surrounding Solomeo and creating parks dedi-

here in North America and abroad, on

cated to youth, agriculture and beauty. The Foundation allows us to

an ongoing basis.”

work for a higher purpose: a personal well-being in order to enhance the beauty of the world. “No act of kindness is too small if it will improve the life and growth of people.”

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON “Médecins Sans Frontières (Doctors Without Borders) is something that I have supported since I was 19. I read about their work in a Swedish newspaper and that they were almost out of funds, and I was horrified. So, I donate 500 SEK (approximately $55 USD) every month, and have been doing

ADAM DERRICK, TO BOOT NEW YORK

so for the past 14 years. “Forum readers can easily

“Among the causes I support, several LGBTQ charities are

help out: start by visiting

among my nearest and dearest. In particular I have come to

doctorswithoutborders.org

appreciate and support the work of the attorneys at Lambda

and get involved in this fan-

Legal. They’ve taken on the legal cases that have won rulings

tastic charity. I think emer-

supporting gay marriage; workplace and housing non-dis-

gency aid to people affected

crimination; rights for LGBTQ kids; and securing rights for

by armed conflicts, epi-

transgender men and women. This is a time of positive

demics, health care exclusion

change in America for these issues, and these rights must be

and natural or manmade disasters should stir everyone to help. Every little

fought for and won in the courts to become legal precedent.

bit of support—even if it’s just $5 a month—is appreciated because together

“My husband and I became aware and got involved with

we make a big difference.”

Lambda Legal through Andrew Mitchell (of Mitchell Stores, part of the Forum Apparel Group), who has been a tireless advocate for the organization and many other charities. Every year we, and To Boot New York, help Andrew and the Mitchell family sponsor an event called Connecticut Cares, which attracts a great, energy-filled crowd from all walks of life, united in their desire for a more free, more fair America for all, including LGBTQ people.”

BOB CORLISS, ROBERT TALBOTT “The Robert and Audrey Talbott Foundation works with local charities in the Monterey, California area, but for a more global perspective, I’ve always been passionate about the St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital, and ALSAC, their fundraising arm. Those with the smallest voice and the least ability to pay—sick children—are the most noted and cared for at St. Jude. They don’t discriminate at all, and the organization has a global reach. “They started an amazing program called “Thanks And Giving” that, during the holidays, focuses attention on raising money to fight childhood cancer and other life-threatening diseases. Earlier in my career they partnered with the retail community, and I’ve worked with them when I can ever since. We are looking forward to expanding Robert Talbott’s relationship with St. Jude very soon. “I would encourage Forum readers to support this worthy cause. Cancer research and treatment is expensive, so any time you can, send a donation and support the businesses that support St. Jude during the holidays. It will take $1 billion to operate St. Jude this year and most of those funds must be raised through individual contributions. Visit stjude.org to contribute and learn more about ways to help them in the fight to end childhood cancer.”

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A CHAT WITH MARIO STEFANO MARAN, EVP OF PANTALONI TORINO USA. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

The World’s

BEST PANTS

t’s been said PT01 makes the world’s best pants; what substantiates this claim? It’s largely about our unique heritage, our tailoring and our technology. Our ongoing research, which is a part of our brand DNA, inspires us to keep innovating. We are famous for breaking the rules and creating unique styles. We offer customers a collection of trousers that reflects the finest Italian tailoring and craftsmanship, as well as special details, amazing fabric options and (most importantly) a perfect fit.

Please share a little about your history. In 1969 Pierangelo Fassino started manufacturing apparel, a major step for the Fassino family, which had been in the textiles business in Torino for three generations. When Pierangelo’s son Edoardo joined the company in the 1990s, the business went decidedly upscale. I was brought in in 2006 to direct the U.S. business, which currently represents 60 percent of global sales. We now have four flagship showrooms: Milan, Tokyo, Munich and NYC.

Tell us about the fall ’16 collection. It combines the historic DNA of American denim with Italian style and design. There are music influences and several different fits. Among the most directional is a carrot fit, which has some fullness on top narrowing to a slimmer leg. But we offer numerous fit options, from classic to contemporary, in styles from formal and elegant to casual and sporty.

What’s next for PT01? The recent listing on the Milan Stock Exchange represents a milestone for our company, allowing us to grow. Current goals include expanding our women’s collection, strengthening our presence in international markets, and investing in new product segments.

quality

Hallmarks of

TOP

TAILORING ROLL-PADDING provides shape and spring to the lapels.

FULLY BASTED CANVAS CHEST PIECE is labor-intensive but adds shape, fit and longevity to the garment.

HAND-SEWN ARMHOLES

create softness in the shoulder for comfort and a more natural shape.

HAND STITCHING

on all edges, flaps and collars provides a superior overall finish.

REAL HORSETAIL CANVAS is for added durability in the chest piece.

in the jacket vent and hem lining provides better lining fit and easier alterations.

GENEROUS SEAM ALLOWANCES create ease of tailoring should you gain (or lose) weight.

IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN

BLIND STITCHING

BY ANDREW MITCHELL-NAMDAR

OUR PHILOSOPHY ON WHY A MULTI-BRAND STORE LEADS TO A BETTER WARDROBE. Multiple designers. An edited assortment of clothing customized to the lifestyles and tastes of our customers and the climate of our location. Associates that know you and how to put it all together. One-stop shopping! We believe the best way to build a well thought-out wardrobe is with the guidance and expertise of a store with multiple brands. With a

selection of numerous designers in our network, our multi-brand store offers an opportunity to dress all in one brand or mix many different designers to create a truly signature look. Like your very own closet, our selling floors give you a chance to mix edgy with traditional, high with low or any combination in between for a look thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all your own.

One hundred years of excellence.

Handcrafted in America since 1916.

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FROM SKI SWEATERS TO LIGHTWEIGHT WOVENS, WE NORWEGIANS DESIGNS CLASSIC CREATIONS FOR ALL SEASONS. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

enmark has become famous for its mid-20th century modern furniture; Sweden is worldrenowned for bringing us Ikea; and Finland—well, it’s produced a lot of heavy metal bands. And if Tove Grane (pictured at right) has anything to say about it, her homeland of Norway will soon become renowned across the globe for her two-year-old men’s and women’s collection, We Norwegians. Featuring wovens made of premium merino wool from Italy that can be worn year-round, the line is more than just skiwear. “We try to push the boundaries of the ‘traditional’ perception of what wool can be used for,” she notes. One of Grane’s primary considerations is the fabrics that go into every garment. “When I start working on a new season, I always start with the fabrics,” she says. “We use three different yarns, and with those yarns, we make three or four different fabrics. We spend a long time testing and developing each of them.” Grane also adds two or three new colors every season, and finds inspiration in Norwegian knitting prints and folk art. But her line, she stresses, is “the antithesis of disposable fashion. I have always loved basic garments that you can wear and style in different ways season after season. In fact, I love to see people wearing my clothes

in ways or combinations that I haven’t thought of.” Indeed, Grane—who compares her working methods to those of architects and industrial designers— always keeps her customer in mind. “I try to make flattering shapes, rather than focus on the silhouettes that are in fashion right now,” she says. “Of course, they have to work in the time we live in, but they should not look outdated for next season, or even for next year. The idea is that you can add pieces to your We Norwegians wardrobe over time and make them work with what you already have.” For all these reasons, it’s hardly surprising that the brand is already taking off in America. But Grane also has her own theory. “Norwegians are practical and active people, and I feel we are more similar to Americans in that way than some of our fellow Europeans,” she says with a smile. “But the bottom line is that it’s good clothing that is made well, and that you will feel comfortable and look stylish at the same time.”

STILL-LIFE IMAGES BY FINN BURROWS

Cool CLIMATE

When entering new situations, respectful is always an admirable look. A W 16 . E X P L O R E I N S T Y L E .

SWEDISH PREMIUM SHIRTS. FOR EVERY MEETING

man of style

Steel STANDING MEET THE MAN BEHIND THIS ICONIC 9/11 PHOTOGRAPH. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

nthony Whitaker was at his apartment in Harlem on September 11, 2001 when he got the call from his boss at Con Ed: he was needed downtown at the World Trade Center to ensure that first responders had power for their rescues. Subways weren’t running, so he walked many miles to get there. Nearly asphyxiated by heavy smoke, he repaired power lines in the Hot Zone, mesmerized by the haunting image in front of him: the skeletal remains of the South Tower. Overcome by this spiritual symbol of endurance and hope, he snapped a photo; days later, the building came down. So who is this man who shared his iconic 9/11 image with the world in order to establish a foundation (steelstanding.org) to help those confronting adversity? (Among the first beneficiaries: Homes for Our Troops.) Whitaker grew up in the Bronx, has always had a passion for ancient art, was an athlete as a teenager, launched a clothing line as a young man, and turned down a modeling career because his mother, a Jehovah’s Witness, disapproved. “She’s all about humility and spiritual pursuits vs. ego and material things. I’ve always admired her values; I could never disappoint her.” Still, based on an early foray into fashion design (he once won an award at a menswear trade show for “most promising new designer”), Whitaker is into clothes. He loves Zegna suits and Italian leather shoes; he owns literally hundreds of ties. And at 6’4’’ and a 44 long (“I’m not as fit as I once was…”), he looks great in whatever he wears. Whitaker is now completing work on a Steel Standing sculpture in steel and marble to be permanently displayed at the Pentagon this fall. Not just a man of style, this is a man of steel, a man of character.

Available exclusively at

Hubert White

MENSWEAR

RULES Back in the day, gentlemen seeking sartorial perfection had strict rules to followâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;so many, in fact, that books were written to help them avoid embarrassing faux pas. Thankfully, the rules have relaxed, and these days well-dressed guys can rely on their intuition, their personal style and some sound suggestions from their favorite store associates. But as they say, you have to know the rules before you can break them. Here, our suggestions for upping your fashion quotient this fall. STYLING BY JOSEPH DEACETIS â&#x20AC;˘ PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID ARKY

THE BUZZ ON

BUTTONS ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Sometimes, always, never: this rule tells you when to button the top, middle and bottom buttons on a threebutton suit. On two-button jackets, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always for the top and never for the bottom (except for sitting, when all buttons should be undone). Todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bestselling suit is a two-button model, since its elongated V-neckline flatters almost any body type,

LAPEL LOGIC

ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

The consensus is that wider suit lapels flatter big guys, while thinner men can get away with narrow lapels on their jackets. The notch lapel, shown at right, is a go-to option since it’s forgiving to most body types. Peak lapels, shown at left, add an element of power and strength. They’re trending on both singlebreasted and double-breasted models, while shawl collars are still reserved for tuxes and dinner jackets.

SOCK IT TO ME

Traditional menswear rules hold that socks should coordinate with your trouser, not your shoes, while contemporary sensibilities allow for a colored sock that complements something else in your outfit. Work your sock into the color scheme established by your shirt, sweater, or pocket square for a coordinated feel that leaves no detail overlooked.

ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

A tie worn at the proper length helps to balance the proportion between your legs and torso. Square-bottom ties (common on knit styles) should end at the top of your belt buckle, while ties with pointed bottoms should hit around mid-buckle.

ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

NECKWEAR NOTES

Millennials are reshaping the rules of menswear for all age groups. Take a cue from the kids: donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to mix textures and patterns, pair sportswear (even sneakers!) with tailored pieces, or break up your suits into separates.

MILLENNIAL MASH-UP

Like iconic structures, well-designed clothing beckons to be “inhabited.” This fall, form, function & fabric converge for a season of unforgettable style.

ARCHITECTURE

STYLE

PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR | MAKEUP: GREGG HUBBARD WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT STILL-LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY: BRIAN KLUTCH PRODUCT STYLING: ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO

the FASHION forum OH KEI!

f Canali’s Kei jacket has taken the fashion world by storm, it’s no surprise. As cozy and light as a knit garment, impeccably sharp, and so comfortable it can be worn year-round, this softly structured jacket is a masterpiece of Italian tailoring that can be appreciated (and worn) by men from every walk of life. And that’s exactly what Giorgio Canali had planned from the start: “When we created the Kei jacket, we didn’t have a specific customer in mind. We wanted something that would be timeless and appeal to many different types of men. The Kei strikes the perfect balance between comfort and style and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. It’s this level of versatility that makes it such a hit season after season.” Trust us: no closet should be without one!

PERFECTION PERSONIFIED

Wisdom of many sorts is dispensed in A.C. Phillips’ wonderful how-to guide, The Pocket Square: 22 Essential Folds. Each chapter (with such unforgettable titles as “The Guido Puff” or “Diamonds are Forever”) illustrates how to create one pocket square look perfect for any suit or sportcoat. Better still, each section is preceded by an aptly chosen quote from a style icon, ranging from playwright Oscar Wilde to actors Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart to designers Hardy Amies, Tom Ford and Luciano Barbera. Best of all, there’s also a page with eight must-know “Etiquette” rules, including our favorite: “A gentleman should carry one square for show and another to blow.” Now this is what we call essential reading.

THE FASHION FORUM WRITTEN BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

Square Deal

If there was any lingering question of the brilliance, innovation and craftsmanship of the late couturier Yves Saint Laurent, the new museum exhibition Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style (on view at the Seattle Art Museum from October 11 to January 16 before traveling to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts on May 7) should put any doubts to rest. This multifaceted retrospective drawn from the collection of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent will shine a bright light on the designer’s genius. On view will be 100 of his greatest creations that span nearly 50 years— some never before seen in public—along with photographs, drawings and films that give insight into his particular process. Says curator Florence Muller: “The changes he progressively introduced into the traditional representation of the feminine and masculine bodies and the codes of seduction stand at the origin of the profound changes of contemporary ways of dress.” Truer words were never spoken.

The Fashion Forum

SPRINGS AHEAD

ohnny Cash wasn’t always the man in black. Don’t believe us? Just head to the Hard Rock Hotel Palm Springs, which not only has Cash’s signed green corduroy jacket on display, but such other fabulous fashions as Sammy Davis Jr.’s 1974 custom suit, a one-of-a-kind vinyl outfit worn by Cher, and Lady Gaga’s shiny silicon, silver wire and crystal dress. And through December 31, you can truly feel like a rock star by taking advantage of the Hard Rock’s “Amplified” package (available at all 23 of its hotels around the globe), which includes not just a personalized tour of the hotel’s memorabilia collection, but also a pre-reserved Fender guitar complete with floor amp and headphones, a special collectible pin and a limited-edition hat. One visit here and any blues you have (Folsom Prison or otherwise) will be a long-forgotten memory.

CONGRATS

HUBERT WHITE ON 100 YEARS!

travel

Luxury WITH SOUL

should have known this would be no ordinary holiday when I received a questionnaire from the resort a few days prior to my trip, an offer to “personalize my wellness experience.” 70 If I would like my suite scented throughout my stay, would I prefer myrrh, lavender, cedar or tangerine? From the following selection of organic soaps, please select oats-bran-honey, agave, lavender or grapefruit-salt. Would I like to try a pillow and mattress with magnetic technology? Do I want my morning juice to be detox, antioxidant or energizing? Do I prefer my private fitness class in the gym or on my terrace overlooking the ocean? When would I like to schedule my Serenity Massage (on my terrace) and my hydrothermal ritual (in the 16,5000-sq.-ft. spa)? Would I prefer the resort’s award-winning restaurant menus, the spa cuisine menu, or a personalized menu created by the chef? Before I share my experience at the amazing Grand Velas resort (a AAA Five Diamond, all-inclusive Leading Hotel of the World on the Pacific near Puerto Vallarta, Mexico), let me preface by not-

A BEYOND-EXCLUSIVE ALL-INCLUSIVE, GRAND VELAS RIVIERA NAYARIT AMAZES AND DELIGHTS IN ENDLESS WAYS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ing that my husband and I are not “wellness” people. He is a perennially stressed-out CPA who has been trying to lose about 50 pounds for the past five years and enjoys being negative and grumpy. I live on coffee, wine and pasta and have not entered a gym in ages. A New Yorker by birth and disposition, I thrive on crowds and chaos: the prospect of a peaceful, soothing, sustaining respite intrigued but also terrified me. I needn’t have worried. Everything about Grand Velas—from the rooms (267 oceanview suites, some with private plunge pools) to the luxury amenities (an award-winning spa with 20 treatment suites and 30-plus spa treatments, many inspired by the native traditions of Mexico; fitness center; 24/7 in-suite service; water sports; tennis; baby concierge; Kids Club; teen lounge) to the personalized service (exceptional but not gratuitous) to the incredible restaurants (three of which have received AAA Four Diamond awards)—is pure perfection. Their wellness package includes a personal concierge, Serenity Massage (heaven!), personal training session, two-level oceanview suite with private hot tub on the rooftop level, in-suite training equipment (ours served as a perfect valet to hold wet swimwear), spa cui-

sine, yoga, Pilates, Zumba and much more. But whether your desires lean toward wellness, decadence or laziness, the resort meets them all in style, in an ambiance that’s welcoming and steeped in natural beauty. The flowering landscaped gardens, the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Madres, the legendary sunsets and, of course, the long stretch of pristine beach lining azure waters, all serve to comfort body and soul. We alternated floating in the warm gentle waves of the Pacific with dips in the magnificent threetiered infinity pool, each section heated to a different degree. (Our favorite was the oceanfront tier with swim-up bar and super-friendly bartenders concocting delicious combinations of rum, vodka, pineapple, nutmeg and all sorts of intoxicating ingredients.) Grand Velas has won numerous awards from Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, TripAdvisor, U.S. News & World Report and Forbes, which named it one of the Top Ten Coolest All-Inclusives. I can now confirm that it’s beyond cool: a blissful escape where one can’t help but relax, renew, resolve and thoroughly appreciate life’s blessings. Or as my husband observes, “If you enjoy being miserable, don’t stay here!”

VELAS VARIETALS

IF YOU LOVE GRAND VELAS, CHECK OUT THESE TWO OTHER NEARBY VELAS RESORTS. Casa Velas is a luxury boutique hotel and fabulous ocean club (just minutes from the beach) for adults only, nestled on the greens of Marina Vallarta’s 18-hole golf course (golf fees are included in the all-inclusive package). Just five minutes from the airport and 15 minutes from the boardwalk, shops and art galleries of Puerto Vallarta, this upscale resort features 80 suites, many with private pools and hot tubs. Amenities include Spa Casa Velas (specializing in couples treatments) and a unique “handbag bar” where guests can borrow designer bags for the evening. Emiliano is their wonderful AAA Four Diamond restaurant; guests also enjoy dining privileges at Grand Velas. Velas Vallarta is a fabulous family all-inclusive located on 10 acres of oceanfront in Puerto Vallarta. Situated on the emerald waters of Banderas Bay, it offers 345 suites in three eight-story buildings, seaside spa cabins, a transformative spa, fitness center, multiple restaurants, nightly theme dinners, and an inviting lounge with live music. Eco-conscious at its core, the resort uses solar panels and protects/releases marine turtles. A recently renovated Kids Club features supervised activities for kids under 13 so their parents can hit the golf course, spa or any one of numerous excursions, including various adventure activities in the Sierra Madre mountains.

wheels Autonomous Vehicles:

THE FUTURE IS NOW BY DAVID A. ROSE

he auto industry has evolved tremendously in the last decade. The day is coming soon when you will phone your car and have it pick you up at a designated location without a human driver. The world of autonomous vehicles is fast becoming a reality. Several companies have begun testing driverless cars, and unique alliances are being formed. One such alliance is Ford Motor Company and Google. Google has been at the forefront of testing driverless models and Ford is accelerating development of a wide range of autonomous vehicles. Ford’s chief executive, Mark Fields, has said that his company plans to form partnerships with other firms to assist with developing autonomous vehicles, while Google recently announced that it will also work with Fiat Chrysler Automobiles (FCA) to produce 100 autonomous versions of the 2017 Pacifica Hybrid minivan. They are planning a test program in four U.S. cities to begin at the end of this year. The U.S. government plans to expedite regulatory guidelines for autonomous vehicles and to invest in research to help bring them to market. The nation’s top auto safety regulator, Mark Rosekind, said the federal government was hopeful that driverless technology could reduce the annual death toll from traffic accidents. In 2014, the last year for which data was available, 32,675 people died in auto accidents, more than 90 percent of which were the result of bad decisions made by drivers. The coalition led by Ford and Google is urging swift passage of regulations that allow for totally autonomous vehicles. The mission of Rosekind’s group, the Self-Driving Coalition for Safer Streets, is to focus on public policy issues. (Other members include Volvo and ride-sharing companies Uber and Lyft.) More groups that support the development of autonomous cars include Mothers Against Drunk Driving, AARP and various associations for disabled persons. Automakers are already putting some self-driving features, like automatic braking and steering, into current models. There are three things required to turn a regular car into an automated one. First is a GPS system pretty much like the ones found in vehicles today.

Second is a system to recognize dynamic conditions on the roads. Third is a way to turn the information from the two systems into action. Sensors feeding information into the differential GPS include cameras that let the car’s computers see what’s around it, radar that allows the vehicle to see up to 100 meters away in the dark, rain, snow, or other vision-impairing circumstances, and lasers that operate like spinning sirens to check for objects around your vehicle. There is hope that, in the future, all cars will be able to talk to each other in a connected vehicle environment. Your car would know precisely where other vehicles are, where they’re going, and where they will turn, so the computers can navigate smoothly. Clearly, the future has arrived.

Game

LAUGHTER AND CAMARADERIE IN A SERIOUS WORLD. BY WAYNE MAIBAUM

ears ago, after a divorce, I moved to a nearby town and asked a colleague if he was interested in forming a poker game. I also asked a neighbor, an acquaintance I met at my daughter’s day care, a former coworker and a friend of a friend. When enough people showed interest, the game was on. Twenty-five years later, although players have come and gone, a core seven remain. I’m a semi-retired general dentist; Fedele is also a dentist, Stan an oral surgeon, Lloyd a professor of molecular biology, Jeff a CPA, Robert a television engineer and John a retired systems analyst. The group has some diversity: Stan is African-American and John, Chinese. We’ve played together so long that we implicitly know each other’s style, so it’s hard to bluff! We’ve learned to accept each other’s quirks and idiosyncrasies. We recall many of the same stories at each game. My favorite is about the time I bit into a hot pepper while eating a sub sandwich. The juice of the pepper squirted across the table and hit Fedele in the eye. He screamed like he’d been shot and, with one eye closed, ran to the nearest bathroom. Bending down to splash some water in his eye, he didn’t notice that Stan had recently installed a glass shelf above the sink. When he stood up, his head hit the shelf with a loud crash and he hobbled back to the card table with one hand pressing his eye and the other the top of his head. We couldn’t stop laughing. One game we play is called three-legged: the pot keeps growing until someone wins three hands. We have a sophisticated tracking system: each player marks his wins with cheese Combos or peanut M&Ms; if you eat one, you lose it. Fedele’s brother was sitting in at a game one night and quite innocently put one of his markers in his mouth. One of the guys noticed and screamed out, “He’s eating it!” Hearing this, Fedele’s brother urgently spit the candy across the room, certain he was being poisoned. Stan usually works the day of the game and rushes to get home, eat dinner with his family, do some chores, and then get to the game. As a

result he’s always late; our tradition is to place a side bet on what time he’ll show up. One night Robert mentioned that he was going to celebrate his birthday the following week. Surprised, I told him I had similar plans; it turned out we had the same birthday. We’d been playing cards together for decades before learning this! Lloyd is very methodical (or superstitious). For as long as I can remember, he has come to the games with his money in an old metal Band-Aid box decorated with Disney characters. He leaves with his money in the same box, never counting it, always declaring, “It’s about the fun of playing…” We are all grown men with good minds, responsible jobs and decent math skills. But when it comes to counting the pot or splitting the winnings, we defer to Jeff, the Certified Public Accountant. Much has happened in the past 25 years: moves, marriages, children, job changes, illnesses, loss of loved ones. Life is unpredictable; nothing stays the same. But for 25 years, our game has survived, providing continuity, connection and comfort to an unlikely group of guys who share an ineffable common bond.

GETTY IMAGES THE CARD PLAYERS BY PAUL CÉZANNE

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The Card

HUBERT WHITE FORUM FW 2016/17