Hubert White

Forum/The Substance of Style/SS 2017

SNEAK PREVIEW WAKE UP YOUR

WARDROBE WITH EVERYONE’S FAVORITE FOOTWEAR

HAUTE FI GRAF TI ARE MURALS THE NEW MUSEUMS?

INSIDER TIPS EXPLORE THE BEST OF MILAN

UNBELIEVABLE EATS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com

PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Michelle Brown EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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Karen Alberg Grossman

The Fashion Forum

MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Menghi DESIGNER

Jean-Nicole Venditti

24 Getting Sneaky

CONCEPT DIRECTOR

Andrew Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

FEATURES 7 18 40 42 44 48 52 54

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

A Celebration for a Century Meet Ruthie Steller and Bobby Whitaker Wine: So You Want to be a Sommelier?

Sports: Playing With Passion Food: Over-the-Top Eats Art: Outdoor Renaissance Wheels: Living the Fantasy Spirits: Inventive Drinking

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY

Profile: Canali Profile: Oxxford Clothes Getting Sneaky Style of the Sun Gods First Person: Let’s Get Real

Welcome Letter Ask Forum Man of Style: Michael Armstrong The Fashion Forum Designers: Inspired Design Destinations: Milan Insider Picks End Page: Why Clothes Matter

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA

Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

DEPARTMENTS 4 6 14 16 20 46 56

APPAREL FORUM

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX

FASHION 12 22 24 30 50

John Frascone

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM. © 2017 FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE, A UBM® PUBLICATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. UBM AMERICAS, 2 PENN PLAZA, FLOOR 15, NEW YORK, NY 10121. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS

44 Food: Over-the-Top Eats

MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 20, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

A Change is Coming to Our Street…

Lots of change is in the air, and not just the normal changing of the seasons and fashions. This spring the Nicollet Mall makeover will be coming to life, and our neighbor, the old Dayton Department Store Building, will be getting a facelift as well. A beautiful new mall combined with a vibrant redo of the centerpiece building: we are very excited about the coming together of these two momentous events that will transform our beloved downtown and make it the ultimate working, living, dining and shopping experience. I can hardly wait!

But back to fashion. Sneakers—yes, sneakers—are the star of our fashion pages in this issue. Far from your grandfather’s tennis shoe, these cool, high-end designs can be worn for every occasion. Turn to page 24 to find out how.

In addition to profiles of our vendor partners (and friends) Canali and Oxxford, you’ll find interviews with our two newest staff members.

Ruthie is returning to our team after a stint in Chicago, and Bobby has come to us by way of White Bear Lake and New Orleans. Want to know more? Flip to page 18 to help us welcome Bobby and welcome back Ruthie.

100 years in business: that’s what we celebrated last November.

Lots of family and friends made it to the party. Some came all the way from Italy and Sweden, others from California and New York.

And of course, many joined us from St. Paul, Minneapolis and the surrounding areas. Check out the photos beginning on page 7 to see just how much fun was had by all! On behalf of the entire Hubert White family and staff, I want to say thanks to all of you who were able to attend.

See you in the shop,

4

ask

Brad Q:

I’d like a new sport coat that’s not a basic blazer. What do you suggest?

Patterns, be they subtle or loud, are definitely happening in spring sport coats. We love the more muted plaids in shades of blue, berry or soft gray, but feel free to make a bolder statement if you dare, especially since these fashionforward sport coats work as well with jeans and five-pocket pants as they do with dress trousers.

Q:

I see a lot of guys wearing shorter, tighter suits these days; is that still the look for 2017?

Only if you’re comfortable in it. The more important factor is that the suit should fit: anything too baggy or long is definitely out of style.

Some general rules: shoulders should reflect your natural shoulder stance, sleeves should allow a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff showing, buttons on the coat shouldn’t pull, pants (whether flat-front or

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SPRING 2017 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM pleated) should feel comfortable, without ripples but without excess fabric. Trouser length should skim the top of your shoe, but a slight break is also acceptable.

Fortunately, today’s suits in new performance fabrics enhance both fit and comfort. Let us show you a few exciting options.

Q:

What kind of shirt would look great worn both with and without a tie?

There’s a new kind of shirt referred to as a hybrid: somewhere between dress shirt and sport shirt. Often, there’s a button between the traditional first and second button positions, so that even if you’re not wearing a tie, the impression is neater.

Look also for sporty details like contrast fabric in the collar and/or sleeve cuff, contrast buttons, or brightly stitched buttonholes that won’t show if you’re wearing a tie. Speaking of new spring ties, why not try a more casual knit, or a seasonal blend with cotton, silk or linen?

A Celebration for a Century.

Last November 3rd we hosted the party of the century! And what a gathering it was.

Friends, clients and family, as well as vendors and suppliers who traveled literally the world to be here, and, of course, our Forum friends from all around the country, attended. They all mingled together and celebrated our 100th anniversary with us.

My dad, Bill, and my grandfather, Bert, would have really enjoyed it.

A special thanks to our friends at Samuelsohn, Mission and Spell wines, who helped us create such a memorable evening.

The following four pages of photos offer some highlights of the evening. Here’s to the next 100!

- Bob White

November 3, 2016

profile

Master of Giorgio Canali

Style

On what it takes to be the best.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Would you share a brief background of the company?

expert tailors on an internal canvas structure, guaranteeing a more comfortable, durable and elegant garment. We take pride in using fabrics that represent the very best of local Italian mills; we work closely with them to design patterns and colors and blends so that the majority of our fabrics are exclusive.

Canali was founded near Milan in 1934 by two brothers, Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. The decades that have passed have seen the arrival of new generations, new energy and new vision for the company, but through all this, we’ve maintained our dedication and passion for our work. Today Canali is an undisputed international leader in tailor-made luxury with our own centers of production (all in Italy), more than 1,800 employees, 250 boutiques, and over 1,000 retail stores in more than 100 countries.

There has been much talk about fit in recent seasons: can suits get any slimmer?

It’s not a question of slim or not, it’s more about a focus on freedom and spontaneity. Men expect their clothing to be elegant, comfortable and in synch with today’s lifestyle. A slimmer silhouette often gives a guy a more youthful, tailored look. Elegance lies in the right balance of numerous components, not on any extreme.

Did you always know you’d work in the family business?

Not exactly, but it became sort of natural. Growing up in the company and being constantly exposed to various aspects of the business, I developed a growing interest.

How do we get American men to dress more Italian?

What are the joys and headaches?

If a man isn’t comfortable in what he’s wearing, he can never be elegant. That said, the secret to an ‘Italian look’ is sprezzatura—a term first made popular by Baldassare Castiglione in his 16th-century handbook The Book of the Courtier. He used it to express the uniquely Italian art of making things look effortless. A key element in Italian style is that an outfit never look forced, uncomfortable or unnatural. Anyone can achieve this by wearing garments that combine fine fabrics, expert cutting and beautiful design, all intrinsic to a Canali suit.

The joys and headaches reflect the pride and, at the same time, the responsibility of working in a company that bears your name. A business that your own family created and built gives you much motivation, but also a fair amount of pressure.

Who has been your mentor or role model?

Definitely my father: he has transferred to me his passion and dedication. What’s more, he taught me respect for other people’s work and their efforts, and to always remember our responsibility towards the talented artisans who work here.

Can you talk about Su Misura?

Canali’s Su Misura is the highest expression of the Canali experience, elevating the excellence of Canali craftsmanship to a new level. Our customers love the personalized and unique experience, where our experts analyze the specifications of your physique and then translate this information into a perfect suit incorporating the characteristics of comfort and elegance that are the hallmarks of our tailoring.

What differentiates a Canali suit from the competition?

How would you describe your personal style?

The secret to a Canali suit lies in its construction. We are proud to craft our garments according to time-honored sartorial tradition. Our suits are built by

I would define it as discrete elegance, updated but with a nod to classic. On weekends, I enjoy wearing sophisticated sportswear, but I often add a sport coat and dressy shoes.

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man of style

SOLE SEARCHING MICHAEL ARMSTRONG, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT NYC’S DREAM DOWNTOWN BODEGA NEGRA RESTAURANT AND SELF-PROCLAIMED SNEAKERHEAD, ON FOOD, FASHION AND FEET.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN How did you first become interested in food?

Growing up in the Michael Jordan era, I ran track and cross country so I had lots of Air Jordans. When I moved to NYC, I started collecting sneakers, especially retro-inspired styles. I have about 200 pairs now—Nike, Adidas, Reebok, Asics, New Balance and many others… My favorites: black/royal Air Jordans from 2001 that I bought a few years ago for $500 and blue Air Jordan 2s that I just donated to a gallery in Chicago.

They sold at $1,500.

I always cooked for my family in Seattle starting at age 12 or 13. It just came naturally to me so I ended up in culinary school in Portland, where I then worked for a year or two. I moved to NYC on a whim; when the exec chef I was working with moved to Tao in Vegas, he called me to be his sous-chef. Bodega Negra is owned by Tao. The original is in London and we’ve recreated several of their signature dishes: quesadilla rustica, tuna ceviche, softshell crab tacos…

What other shoes do you wear?

Could you articulate the food/fashion connection?

Any advice to a guy looking to buy sneakers?

It’s a symbiotic relationship. Dining out is more than just good food: it’s dressing up, it’s see and be seen, it’s a mood and an energy. These days, the trend is away from fine dining toward a more fun casual experience— in both food and fashion. A suit and tie is great, but not mandatory. It’s often about cool streetwear and the right sneakers. It’s about handcrafted food and artisan cocktails in a fun, relaxed, comfortable setting.

Buy what you love, don’t worry about trends. It’s about how you rock it. It’s about confidence. A lot of designer companies are now creating high-end dressier sneakers that don’t look like basketball shoes. I really like them but I don’t own them. It’s not my personal style. (Although I wouldn’t mind trying some Saint Laurent hightops…)

From where comes your passion for sneakers?

Could you tell us about a recent recipe you’ve created?

Like much of my generation, I’ve always loved street style, rap music, the hip-hop lifestyle. (And New York City embodies it all!)

We partnered with The Foundation and Under Armour to launch Steph Curry’s new sneaker. The featured dish: red curry chicken…

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Most chefs wear clogs, but I wear only sneakers. I don’t even own dress shoes (but I do own one pair of cowboy boots). I work on my feet 70 hours a week so I need comfort, support and slipresistance. I wore Air Force Ones to my wedding (after tailoring the suit to showcase the sneakers). I gave custom Nike 10s as gifts to my groomsmen.

the FASHION forum

By Brian Scott Lipton

PACK IT UP!

W

ith airlines charging more each day for checked baggage and even for carry-ons, savvy business travelers are constantly searching for smart solutions that allow them to fit more apparel in one bag—and have it arrive at their destination looking just as fresh as it did in their closet. Europeanbased luggage maker Vocier’s C38 bag (part of its smartly curated collection) is one very clever answer to this nagging problem: the patented “Zero-Crease” system allows you to pack two suits in a special protected sleeve that gently curves around the interior of the bag, protecting your suits from wrinkles. In addition, there’s plenty of room in the interior pocket for shoes, shirts, socks, underwear and belts—even a wash bag to take everything back home!

MAGNIFICENT OBSESSIONS Window dresser extraordinaire Simon Doonan prizes his “Prince head.” Fashion designer John Bartlett treasures his late father’s 1975 Cincinnati Reds World Series ring, while actor Tony Goldwyn proudly displays one of his family’s favorite heirlooms—a large Buddha statue—in the bay window of his living room.

How do we know these things? Thank jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann, who has interviewed more than 65 world-famous personalities about their favorite things in her impressive coffee-table tome, A Possession Obsession (Glitterati Incorporated).

Kosann’s gorgeous photography accompanies each revealing interview, with words and pictures adding up to some of the most beautiful stories ever told.

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The Fashion Forum

CHARGE IT!

Cashmere and cotton are eternally chic, but two things currently at the height of fashion are sustainability and electric cars. So it’s no wonder that one of the world’s most fashionable hotel chains, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, has installed charging stations for electric cars at select properties across the globe, from San Francisco to Barcelona. Two stations at each hotel allow drivers the ability to charge their cars for up to 150 miles in a mere two and a half hours. So the next time you’re on vacation, you have no excuse not to hit the streets—and you can feel good about doing it!

CURTAIN CALL

T

heater aficionados know that London and New York are the transcontinental capitals of this beloved art form, so it makes perfect sense that the exhibition Curtain Up: Celebrating the Last 40 Years of Theatre in New York and London has relocated from London’s Victoria & Albert Museum to New York’s Public Library for the Performing Arts. Through June, this special installation highlights how the theater districts of both cities have flourished and developed since 1976, and features designs, models, photographs, archival production materials and multimedia elements from such award-winning shows as Mary Poppins, Chicago, Wicked and many more. Fashionistas will be particularly delighted by the costumes on display, including masks from Phantom of the Opera, masks and African garb from The Lion King, and titular footwear from Kinky Boots. So make a run for the fascinating show while there’s still time. (Just don’t break a leg.)

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Ruthie Steller Sales Team Member

Q You’ve been in the better apparel business for a long time. When and where did you start?

A

I was 16 years old, and took a job at the Cole Haan store on the Nicollet Mall. My parents raised our family in downtown Minneapolis and I went to school at DeLaSalle.

Q Did you find Hubert White or did we find you?

A

After Cole Haan, I found a job at Neiman Marcus. I became friends with the footwear manager at Hubert White, as we referred clients back and forth. He was changing careers, I was very interested in the job, and Hubert White offered it to me. I was 19 years old and the footwear manager at Hubert White!

Q Why did you decide to change careers?

A

I became passionate about health and wellness and wanted to work myself into an area that was related to that lifestyle.

Q Were you always someone who loved working out and staying in shape?

A

Not at all. However, I know the feeling of being stuck in unhealthy habits.

This gave me the empathy for my clients who wanted to change their lifestyles by working out and eating healthy.

Q What makes Hubert White special?

A

I love that many of the associates have been with Hubert White for so long. I love the loyal clientele. It has been like a homecoming to be working at Hubert White again.

Q What does your Hubert White job entail?

A

Right now I am at the store two days a week, Mondays and Wednesdays.

I am helping all the sales associates with their clients and helping Brad keep his head above water.

Q You and Nick have a wonderful daughter; Nick has his job and you are working two jobs. How do you do it?

A Nick is a great dad. He is very involved in our family life which makes all the difference. Olive attends a Montessori school and that allows me to juggle massage therapy, personal training and Hubert White.

Q With so much going on in your life, what do you and Nick do to relax?

A

Nick cooks, I practice yoga and we enjoy lazy Sundays as a family.

Bobby Whitaker Q Why the menswear industry and why Hubert White?

A

I have always had a passion for luxury menswear. I love product and wearing something that gives so much satisfaction day in and day out.

I am ecstatic to be at Hubert White. Our size and niche allows us to operate with stealth and flexibility, responding to trends without having to turn a large boat. Plus, having Dinh and his tailor shop team backing us up is a big advantage, unique to Hubert White.

Q Favorite movie?

A Q I relax by...

A Q If I could own one car...

A

Caddyshack. Seriously. I have a vintage Caddyshack poster, framed in my home, signed by the entire cast and crew.

Driving cars and playing golf.

In Minnesota, the Range Rover Autobiography. It has a V10 engine with over-the-top luxury features. If I am driving without snow as a possibility, an Aston Martin DB10. (Gotta dream big!)

Q Best sports experience?

A Q Favorite piece in your wardrobe?

A Q My next clothing purchase will be...

AL Q Best piece of advice?

A Q Favorite meal?

A Q Where do you see yourself in 10 years?

A

I attended the Final Four in 2001 at the Metrodome in Minneapolis with my dad. Duke won. My dad is a Duke alum.

Kiton vicuna/cashmere blend overcoat.

imited-edition New Balance 247 LUXE sneaker in white.

(It’s a Hubert White exclusive!)

Follow your passion and success will follow you.

Buffalo chicken wrap from The Boot in New Orleans (just across from the Tulane University campus).

Being a Millennial, I am not supposed to know or care. However, I would love to be the go-to expert for luxury men’s apparel in the Twin Cities, and a player within the menswear industry.

Sales Team Member

designers

INSPIRED DESIGN WE ASKED OUR MOST FASHIONABLE FRIENDS ABOUT THE IMPACT OF ART ON THEIR CREATIVE PROCESSES.

ARNOLD BRANT SILVERSTONE, HICKEY FREEMAN & SAMUELSOHN I came across this photograph of rock formation called The Painted Desert, a visually wondrous place in the Badlands of Arizona. The band of colors struck me as ethereal. It stayed with me for days and I ultimately designed a

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

whole collection for Hickey Freeman spring/summer 2017 inspired by it with layers

MIKE FAHERTY, FAHERTY

of dusty rose, tan and putty.

From an early age I was interested in art and found myself practicing it

The arid essence of

frequently. I was lucky enough to grow up near New York City, so I had

the desert image natural-

access to some of the world's greatest museums. Early on I was drawn to

ly led to crafting a looser

more classical art styles like Impressionism, but through my education I

silhouette, which is a

was exposed to more eras of art and I found myself most excited about the

pendulum swing from

Abstract Expressionistic works of Gerhard Richter. His beautiful use of

the previous season. We cut the interior canvas of our jackets on the bias for

color inspires me to this day.

a fashionable drape. We hand-tailored incredibly light canvases and interlin-

When I started following Richter's artworks, it became clear to me that I

ings for feather-light construction combined with summer’s most exotic fab-

was mostly drawn to his

rications. Silk runs throughout the collection to add quiet strength to tissue-

use of color combinations.

fine fabric and to add a whisper of luminosity.

As I made my way into the fashion world, I fell in love with designing textiles

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

and creating my own color combinations in

I have a passion for literature as an art form and really value reading. My favorite and most-read book is Mediations by Marcus Aurelius. I have drawn many life lessons from his words and messages from the stories he writes. I discovered the book early on in my career and it has guided me in my life since. I instantly connected with its messages and the writings have become close treasures.

I have read this book numerous times and continually take away something new each time I read its passages. The foundation of the brand and the collection begins with the philosophies and ideologies that I believe in, many of which I discovered through the teachings of Marcus Aurelius. Just as the great philosophers value legacy, humanity and living a full life, these principles are carried with us as we design the collection each season.

prints and plaids, which are found throughout my collections at Faherty.

You have to walk a fine line when creating textiles and prints that stand out so that they are still easy to wear with the rest of your wardrobe.

When you walk into a museum or gallery and Richter is on the wall, you are immediately drawn to his use of color. But as you get closer, there is an easiness to the color combinations that makes them seem less daunting. That's always my intention when designing our textiles: at first you're drawn to them from across the store, but as you approach them, they become more inviting to wear.

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BOB CORLISS, ROBERT TALBOTT In my mind the most thoughtful and inspirational painting is Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, part of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The two hands coming together is such a powerful image and it talks about anything being possible. It’s motivational as well as beautiful.

But to tell you the truth, our surroundings are our biggest inspiration. We live in a really special location—The Monterey Peninsula—and Carmel in particular is one of the most spectacular places on the planet. Mountains, valleys, oceans in beautiful colors; we call it God’s canvas. The weather patterns are very dynamic, but it never gets extremely hot or cold. We have different people from all over the world visiting at all times. Those factors all influence the colors and styles that make up our collections.

The design process is a collaborative journey between our creative director Mark Calder and his very talented team. We started as a neckwear company and have an archive that houses every design dating back to 1950, also a source of endless inspiration for us.

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON If I had to choose one work of art that really blew my mind I would have to say La Divina Commedia by Dante, and Botticelli's depiction of it in La Carte de l'Enfer. I really didn't know who Dante was or what La Divina Commedia was when I picked it up at 18 years old. It was an Italian version that I bought in London and I could hardly understand anything, but I tried my best. Then I read it through in English online and it was more an experience than just a book. Hard to put words on it.

I would not say that a specific piece of art has inspired me or my work though. I always walk around with my eyes open. Having to constantly come up with new ideas and concepts to develop

GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA

into mood boards for our brands means that I can’t

My favorite works are the Napoli landscapes of Giacinto Gigante. Napoli is at the heart

get stuck too long in one idea.

of everything we do at Isaia. These references are seen in the way we create each piece

I wish I could say that Botticelli shines through

of clothing: Neapolitan tradition mixed with a contemporary point of view. What I also

my collections, but I can't (LOL). However, I always

like about this painter is that he was introduced to his craft by his father, just like I was

do my best and push myself so that whatever we set

introduced to sartorial tailoring by my father, Enrico Sr.

our minds on doing, we do it properly and put our

The colors in his pieces struck me first. They have a very dreamlike effect, but com-

hearts into it. In an ideal world I could spend one

bine different styles and techniques. I also like that he was a little bit of a rebel amongst

year on every collection. The hardest thing working

the Academy of Fine Arts in Napoli. This makes him very interesting as he did not try

in fashion is that it is so cyclic and with this constant

to conform his style too much.

need of news, you always feel that there is never

Just like Gigante we don't try to conform to trends. We like to create new ideas. We

enough time. But that's just how it is. Perhaps one

stay true to our DNA and don't change everything based on what the industry tells us.

day consumption will have to slow down and the

We observe what is happening around us, but remain true to who we are. Also, the

world will only focus on producing really well-made

depictions of Napoli that Gigante created are seen in each of our inspirations for the

stuff that's built to last for a decade. I'm proud that at

season. Napoli is always at the heart. We play with color the way a painter does. It’s just

Eton our goods last for a very long time.

a different art medium.

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profile

OXXFORD CLOTHES SHARES SUCCESS SECRETS, AND PLANS FOR THE NEXT 100 YEARS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

A Century of Excellence Bob Denton and Chris Brueckner wear the brand well.

There are few clothing brands in the world with as compelling a story as Oxxford, now 100 years old and one of the few luxury suit makers that still crafts in America. Its commitment to exceptional quality, the finest fabrics, hand craftsmanship and U.S. production sets it apart for legions of consumers, including numerous U.S. presidents, Hollywood stars, CEOs and successful entrepreneurs. The common denominator for the past 100 years: men with exacting standards wear Oxxford suits because they want the very best.

Here, we speak with Oxxford’s president Bob Denton and sales director Chris Brueckner about how they hit this 100-year milestone, and how to approach the next century.

To what do you attribute the longevity of this highly esteemed brand?

Oxxford Clothes’ mission has always been “to create a garment by which all others will be judged.” We have remained true to that mission. We are the only production garment in the United States that is totally made by hand. We allow the artisans who hand-pad our lapels 30 minutes to complete each lapel with approximately 1,000 hand stitches. One person can complete only about seven garments per day. There are 179 steps in the production of an Oxxford suit, which takes approximately 28 hours of labor to complete.

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There is always demand for the best. Discerning customers realized there was a difference in an Oxxford garment and it soon became what everyone measured their product against.

So despite the reality today of today’s more casual style of dress, Oxxford has been able to adapt to changes—thanks to supportive ownership and a continuing commitment to quality.

Our longevity can also be attributed to maintaining flexibility and growing our consumer base. While our core customer is a mature gentleman, we’re getting lots of interest from younger guys. They’re interested in the “heritage” of the brand, the nuances of the make, the artisanal aspect and the opportunity for customization. They want authentic clothing.

So how do you attract younger guys who want Oxxford but can’t afford it?

Our social media campaign has dramatically helped raise the awareness of Oxxford Clothes with a younger consumer. We’ve become an aspirational brand for the new generation of gentlemen who appreciate the heritage, artistry and quality of what we produce.

Several years ago an extension brand, Oxxford 1220, was introduced. It’s still a high-quality garment, made in our Chicago factory, but we eliminated some of the more meticulous hand work processes. It changed our ready-to-wear business but did some harm where the end consumer thought he was buying the same Oxxford he had in the past. All the handwork in an Oxxford garment serves a purpose; it is the only way to put permanent shape into a lapel and collar. And shaping the chest like we do, an Oxxford garment has a natural give to it that provides movement; non-handmade garments cannot claim this characteristic.

What we do best is make hand-made clothing. It’s who we are, part of our 100 years of success.”

So future growth will come from new product offerings and more custom?

Yes. We have a unique story and product and will continue to focus on what we do best.

Talk a bit about your new workshop in Chicago? How will this impact production?

After 68 years in the same building, we are excited about the move to our new Chicago location. History and nostalgia aside, we’re planning for the next 100 years and this move is an important step. It will enable us to be more efficient, upgrade quality control, and provide a better environment for our employees.

Everything will be on one floor, from order processing to pattern making and cutting to sewing and pressing.

We anticipate production time to improve, which will be an advantage for our customers.

We always welcome customers to visit the factory and see what goes into making our clothing. The new factory will make it easier to see the whole process.

Do you think trunk shows are the best way to introduce the brand to our customers?

A few years ago, we recognized the coming shift from ready-made clothing to more custom clothing and we adjusted our production accordingly. That move set us up to capitalize on the shift that has in fact taken place. Ready-made is still an important part of our business (stores must have garments to show and use for fitting) but our production has shifted to mostly custom.

The successful Oxxford shows are ones where store owners and sales people go above and beyond to get customers in.

These smart merchants look at their current customer list to determine which guys should be exposed to the next quality level and then inviting them in, if only for education and exposure. Stores like Hubert White that use our expertise and allow us to do what we do best have great success. We work with all the best mills in the world and bring their books with us to shows; this provides an opportunity for the customer to see the greatest array of fabrics they will ever see from a single vendor. We look forward to sharing them with Hubert White customers in-store this spring.

What’s new for 2017?

What’s the most expensive Oxxford suit you ever sold?

We won’t stray too far from our classic looks, but we’re focusing on more luxury fabrics in cashmere and wool/silk blends. We’re reintroducing Escorial wool for both suits and jackets. We now offer more color in jackets and we have a strong presentation in blazer fabrics.

Our new models are slightly trimmer: one is our version of a soft coat, with a lightweight make and details. The other has a slightly stronger shoulder and narrow waist for a more sartorial expression.

The most expensive suit that I was directly involved in selling was $35,000 (the customer actually purchased two). The fabric was a Super 200s with a significant mixture of Vicuna. We also have a client who purchased several 100% Vicuna topcoats that retail for about $55,000. Obviously we’re not expecting to sell large quantities at this level, but for those who want the very best, there’s only one Oxxford.

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SLEEK LEATHER TRAINERS ARE A GREAT COMPLEMENT TO FIVE-POCKET PANTS. With a lightweight jacket and cool cotton shirt, this will become your go-to spring look.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER. FASHION DIRECTION BY MICHAEL FUSCO. STYLING ASSISTANCE BY LEAH SNOW.

PETER MILLAR OUTERWEAR, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHIRT, PETER MILLAR PANT, W. KLEINBERG BELT, SHINOLA WATCH, MAGNANNI SNEAKER

SN GettingE A KY

Kick your career into high gear with a fresh take on business casual. CRISP WHITE SNEAKERS AND A FITTED

BOGLIOLI SUIT, ZEGNA SHIRT, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SNEAKER

KNIT SHIRT KEEP YOUR SUMMER SUIT SPORTY AND CHIC.

Top with a perfect polo and structured sport coat for a look that can take you from work to weekend.

ROBERT TALBOTT SPORT COAT, FAHERTY POLO, W. KLEINBERG BELT, KENTON MICHAEL BRACELET, JOES JEANS DENIM, LANVIN SNEAKER

THE CLASSIC JEANS AND SNEAKERS COMBO GETS A STYLISH UPGRADE WITH SUEDE.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA OUTERWEAR, FAHERTY POLO, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI JOGGER, SHINOLA WATCH, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SNEAKER

STEP OUT OF THE GYM AND INTO THE PAGES OF GQ WITH SOFT, SLIM JOGGERS AND STYLISH SLIP-ONS. A half-tucked tee and performance outerwear keep things from getting sloppy.

ISAIA SPORT COAT POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER ISAIA SPORT COAT ANDAND POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER

When dressing up your shorts, trade the tired WHEN DRESSING UP YOUR SHORTS, DITCH THE sneakers.

LOAFERS AND LET loafer look for burnished leather There’s no better way BURNISHED SNEAKERS THERE’S NOLEATHER BETTER WAY TO KEEPSUBIT IN. COOL, COMFORTABLE AND CLASSY. to keep it cool, comfortable and classy.

Sneaker

STYLES

FROM T OP: VINCE Simon Sneaker MAGNANNI Pueblo Sneaker VINCE Austin Sneaker

STYLE OF THE SUN GODS PHO T OGR APHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR: MARCELINO MAKEUP: CL AIRE BAYLEY WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT S T I L L- L I F E P H O T O G R A P H Y : B R I A N K L U T C H S T I L L- L I F E S T Y L I N G : A L E J A N D R A S A R M I E N T O F O R H A L L E Y R E S O U R C E S

THIS SEASON, DISCOVER AN ARRAY OF FRESH, POWERFUL LOOKS THAT SHINE AS BRIGHTLY AS THE SUN.

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EXPLORE CONTRAST AT THE INTERSECTION OF LIGHT & DARK.

SHIRT, SWEATER, JACKET & JEANS: ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUNGLASSES: AMERICAN OPTICAL

ETON

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TRASK

ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

home design

CANALI

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ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

ROBERT TALBOTT BALDASSARI

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ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

home design

L.B.M. 1911

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ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

home design CANALI PT01

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ROBERT TALBOTT INIS MEÁIN

39

wine

SO YOU WANT TO BE A

SOMMELIER?

There’s more to it than drinking great wines… BY LESLEY RUBENSTEIN spirits at New Orleans’ iconic Commander’s Palace, owned by the Brennan family. “We have an extensive wine program,” Davis says.

“Everyone can find something familiar here, but the real joy is to take guests on a journey that’s a little outside their comfort zone.”

The wine cellar complements the restaurant’s “haute Creole” cuisine and reflects Davis’ passion for rare and underrepresented wine, history and food. Wine enthusiasts have taken notice: for the last five years, Commander’s has been a recipient of The Wine Spectator Grand Award, widely perceived as the most prestigious recognition in the world of wine. In 2016, Commander’s was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for the best wine program in America; The Daily Meal named its wine list the best in the U.S. “Wine and food go hand in hand,” is Davis’ mantra. “Wine is very much part of the meal in flavor and texture.”

Commander’s has raised the staff’s level of wine knowledge by making the Court of Master Sommeliers Program mandatory for employees. Under Davis’ direction, 40 servers, plus managers, bartenders, kitchen staff, chefs and owners, passed the Introductory Course and Examination, the first level of the program. Twelve Certified Sommeliers, having attained the second level, walk the

t starts with a passion for wine, a love of learning and an ability to retain lots of details about grapes, geography, terroir, etc. It ultimately becomes a journey of research, deductive tastings, pairings, pourings and intense exams to finally become certified.

Master Sommelier Dan Davis took his first sip of alcohol in college and tried his first taste of wine at the encouragement of a friend at a local tavern. Today, he serves as the director of wine and

Above, the wine room at Commander’s Palace. Below left, Master Sommelier Dan Davis.

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Master Sommelier as a guest in an imaginary restaurant with an imaginary wine list. He or she can order any type of wine, and the candidate must know all about it. Candidates must also suggest wines for the guest’s hypothetical food order, conduct a mock service of a bottle of wine or Champagne, and serve an after-dinner drink.

“Being certified is a very real credential with value. Basically, the Court of Master Sommeliers is saying that if they were running a restaurant, they’d hire you as a sommelier.”

To take the Advanced Course, candidates must apply. They need a minimum of five years in the industry and must be accepted into the program, which provides a glimpse of what to expect from the third exam and, if invited, the fourth level: The Master Sommelier Diploma Exam. The process is difficult, and candidates spend years of grueling hours in preparation; only a small percentage eventually pass. Currently, there are only 125 men and 24 women in the U.S. who can call themselves Master Sommeliers.

The unique opportunities, however, make all the hard work worthwhile. “A highlight for me was being with seventh- or eighth-generation winemakers in Burgundy and having them pull a 1917 bottle out of a cave, where their great-grandfather had hidden it from the Nazis.

They popped it open, and we drank it, with much joy. It doesn’t get better than that.”

restaurant’s floors. Says Davis, “Education is the key to everything: it fosters a passion that the sommeliers bring to the customers. We’ve created a genuine wine culture.”

Davis says the training is critical to a restaurant’s success.

“Servers need to know the quality of the wine, and why it works in a specific context. They need to be able to pronounce vocabulary and feel comfortable talking about wine in a professional—but approachable and friendly—manner.”

The Introductory Class is a two-day course led by Master Sommeliers that culminates in an extensive exam. It’s allencompassing, covering everything important to know about wine. Students also practice blind tastings and serving, although these skills are not tested at this level.

“When I see my staff move from ‘Oh, I get to drink wine’ to ‘Oh, I get to sell this wine and provide an experience for the customer,’ I know the program has worked.”

The Certified Examination, the second level, requires students to engage in self-directed studies followed by a three-part exam that tests theory, tasting and service. “You walk into the room to find two glasses of wine: one red and one white. You have 25 minutes to taste the wines and tell the Master Sommelier what they are. Then you take an exam that is fairly grueling, much harder than level one.”

During the service portion of the exam, each candidate waits on a

CURRENTLY, THERE ARE ONLY 125 MEN AND 24 WOMEN IN THE U.S. WHO CAN CALL THEMSELVES MASTER SOMMELIERS.

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sports

ALAN ARLT WANTS TO BRING OUT THE CARMELO ANTHONY IN ALL OF US. BY DANIEL A. GROSSMAN

PLAYING WITH PASSION What life lessons can young people learn from basketball?

he idea for Ultimate Hoops, a recreational basketball league where each player is treated like a professional, came from Alan Arlt’s personal passion for the sport. He founded the league in 2006; in 2008 he sold it to Lifetime Fitness and in 2014 introduced training products. It is currently in 24 markets, making it the largest recreational b-ball league in the country. Here, we speak to Arlt about his dream.

I think two key values are determination and commitment. Our goal at Ultimate Hoops is to reinforce a “never retire” attitude and state of mind. It’s unfortunate that 70 percent of basketball players quit by age 13 and never play again. We believe it’s critical to keep players playing in order to maintain their lifelong passion for the game. A passion for basketball often leads to a passion for other positive pursuits in life.

What is your mission for Ultimate Hoops?

To instill passion and values, and improve basketball culture for the average fan. This includes creating stats and power rankings for each player.

What in your personal background inspired this dream?

I was born and raised in Minnesota, then moved to NY in my 20s. I grew up a Knicks fan, but the players who most influenced me include Larry Bird, Magic Johnson and Dennis Rodman (on the Pistons). I’m a big fan of Rodman for his heart and passion for the game. (I was never a Michael Jordan fan as he was the bitter archrival to my beloved Knicks.)

Who are the best NBA players today? The best role models?

In my opinion, the best players are LeBron James, Steph Curry, Klay Thompson and Carmelo Anthony. I’d have to say Anthony is also among the best role models for his vocal stance on social issues. Also in the role model category: Curry, Durant, Westbrook and Maya Moore (WNBA). All have core values similar to those at Ultimate Hoops.

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What are the most exciting things going on at Ultimate Hoops?

In January 2016, we signed a partnership with NBRPA (National Basketball Retired Players Association). Our goal is to keep retired players involved in the game through speaking, training and other appearances. This past fall, we organized a media game at Sky Club in NYC featuring Carmelo Anthony and other retired NBA players.

In 2017 we’re sponsoring an Ultimate Tour featuring athletes with core values that reflect ours. We continue to be involved in numerous national corporate and red carpet events with models wearing basketball gear. We’re also involved with the Maya Moore/Ricky Rubio Academy. Moore has sponsored this all-day academy for three years and is actively involved with the campers there.

BUILD. ENJOY. LEAVE A LEGACY.â„¢

W W W . M E R I S T E M F W . C O M

OVER-THE-TOP

EATS

In the name of total satiation, we traveled the world to dine under spectacular circumstances. BY SHIRA LEVINE 44

HOTEL DE GLACE IMAGE © DANY VACHON.

food

Climatic Cuisine There’s roughly a three-month window during which you can experience Quebec’s Hôtel de Glace (right), where you’ll quickly learn how chill feasting within an ice castle can be. Critical resources: hearty grub, puffy coats and a generator. Pop-up icy dining with an Arctic atmosphere is certainly a northern thing. Kemi, Finland’s Snow Castle, maintains a temp of -5 Celsius while serving local salmon, perch and lamb. Austria’s Kitzbühel Alps is home to Alpeniglu Dorf, an igloo restaurant serving fondues and boasting an open-air snow bar, as well as an ice church.

Epic food is subjective.

Sometimes, a culinary adventure awaits domestically, in one’s very own hometown. But sometimes the most tantalizing feasts are those over-the-top experiential ones in far-flung locations.

We compiled a list of global dining and imbibing spots that left tasty impressions on the mind—and better still, the palate.

Sea(in)side Fare Who doesn’t love a swim-up bar? The Lagoon Bar at Iceland’s Blue Lagoon (opposite page) is restorative twice over courtesy of healing waters and a signature cocktail for a full detox/retox encounter. In Costa Rica, at Tabacón’s Arenal Pool Bar, a ceviche dish served in waist-deep thermal waters doesn't cramp those seeking splashy crater views. The waters are rich in calcium, lithium and silica, and are naturally heated by the Arenal volcano’s magma. Barbados' Crystal Cove had us (rum) punch drunk in love with the waterfall entry to a cave bar where fish from the very waters guests wade in is prepared to order (right). And Las Vegas' Tropicana Hotel offers noshes to those who swim up to the waterproof blackjack table. But next level al fresco comes in acqua. In Bora Bora’s otherworldly lagoons, Tahitian tour operators curate motu picnics, Polynesian suckling pig feasts set in shallow sandbar’d waters.

worth traveling for. In southeast Wales, she’s Pauline Griffiths, owner of the unsuspecting Art Shop & Chapel.

Located in Abergavenny, the café with courtyard garden is tucked below an old chapel and behind a market hall. What makes Griffiths like Waters are the ingredients: beetroot, leeks, curly kale and pheasant. Favorites? Grilled cheese with hawthorn berry ketchup, turmeric

golden mylk and oat milk lattes. Back across the pond, Woodberry Kitchen (above left) tantalizes in Baltimore.

Chef Spike Gjerde is Charm City’s midAtlantic sourcing Alice Waters. The slowcooked turkey potpie with rutabaga cream and kohlrabi, rabbit dirty rice with buttermilk fried saddle, and koshihikari rice and snake oil are swoonworthy. Foodies at Anguilla’s CuisinArt

Resort should expect nothing less than a hydroponic farm-totable experience given, well, the gigantic onsite hydroponic garden (above right). Chef Jasper Schneider’s veggies nourish the menus of five foodspots at the resort, and the Caribbean Sea’s bounty of finned foods round out the fresh and local dishes: lionfish, snapper and lobster, oh my!

IMAGE CREDITS

Luxe Local Feasting

O

utside of California, there’s an “Alice Waters of” in a few special places.

Indeed there’s but one Chez Panisse, but the finest and freshest seasonal ingredients culled by successors are a gourmet challenge

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INSIDER PICKS

The best places to eat, drink, party (and recover) in this world fashion capital. BY MARIO BISIO When I’m in Milan twice a year on buying trips, I have a few favorite restaurants. For lunch, I love Bagutta. Known as “the trattoria of trattorias,” it’s a fun place with colorful art and wonderful food. I usually order a salad and a pasta. My favorite is the simplest: pasta pomodoro that’s out of this world.

Another good lunch option: the cantina in the Kiton Palazzo, the Milan headquarters for this esteemed clothing company. Their mozzarella arrives fresh every day by train from Naples. You cannot find anything more delicious than caprese salad with the best mozzarella, the freshest tomatoes, the purest olive oil… While it’s open only to industry insiders, I invite our customers to join us anytime!

For dinner, I love Da Ilia. I go for their incredible risotto, their perfect veal Milanese, their special ensalata tropical and any of their homemade pastas. For fish, I choose La Risacca 6. Both the

raw fish and the cooked dishes are simply prepared from the freshest seafood in Milan! I also can’t resist their spaghetti vongole—molto buono!

Of course, one must make time for cocktails. Be sure to check out the bar at the Diana Majestic Hotel. It’s behind the curtains, and super cool. For amazing views to go with your cocktails and tapas, try the Radio Rooftop: it’s the best place to contemplate Milan’s skyline and take in the energy of the city.

My favorite hotel is the Principe di Savoia: it’s an old hotel with an amazing history that’s been the place to stay for cosmopolitan society since the 1920s. There’s also a fabulous workout facility on the rooftop level. It’s not inexpensive, but I’ve been going there for so long that it feels like home.

Of course the main activity in Milan is fashion, and the best way to absorb it is over a cappuccino or an aperitivo. Just sit,

sip and stare as the bestdressed people in the world pass by. As for shopping, you can find fabulous inspiration in the Corso Como neighborhood. I suggest you take notes in Milan but save the actual purchasing for when you get back home, just in case you need to make a return!

Finally, to lift your spirits, be sure to visit the Duomo. Go in the daytime when there’s sunlight and absorb the immense power of this magnificent structure. Its majesty and spirituality are truly life-affirming.

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FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK/ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG, LA RICASSA 6, LA RICASSA 6, SHERATON DIANA MAJESTIC, RISTORANTE DA ILIA, SHUTTERSTOCK/MURATART

destinations

Milan:

One hundred years of excellence.

Handcrafted in America since 1916.

FOR ONE OF THE BEST FREE ART SHOWS IN THE WORLD, ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS LOOK UP.

BY SHIRA LEVINE

hile strolling the industrial-hip streets of Oahu's Kaka'ako District in search of a cup of coffee, I come upon a familiar face and stop in my tracks. Before me is a portrait of a man, classic but for the fact that the magnificent painting stretches across the entire facade of a building on the unassuming corner of Ward Avenue and Kapiolani. I learn later that it’s titled Hapa, which in Hawaiian means “part” and refers to anyone with a mixed ethnic background. The artist, Kamea Hadar, is an Israeli/Japanese painter raised in Hawaii and schooled in Paris at the Sorbonne. The hapa man is President Barack Obama (who went to high school just three miles from this very location).

"President Obama is a symbol of someone who is hapa; he represents the philosophy and the beauty of not only being mixed race, but promoting racial equality," says Hadar, also a co-creator of the annual international public art event Pow!Wow! “Public art is as important as a project that hangs in a museum for hundreds of years. Art can be impermanent and still important. We don’t need to hold on to it forever. The sun damages public art; it fades. When people realize that they start to pay attention.”

Corporate, government and nonprofit-sponsored urban frescoes are frequently commissioned to fine artists. Post-industrial cities like Detroit, Baltimore and Pittsburgh are home to murals spon-

From top: Mural by Os Gemeos on the Bowery in NYC. LA street scene.

Artwork in Valparaíso, Chile.

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IMAGES BY SHIRA LEVINE

art

OUTDOOR RENAISSANCE

sored by banks and retail chains aiming to brighten neighborhood blight through local art and culture. Not that the clandestine installation of self-expression has ceased. The work of Shepard Fairey and Brazilian twins Os Gemeos couldn’t be so commonly appreciated without the (in their time) renegade installations by Keith Haring, Kobra and JR, who then paved the way for Swoon and Banksy.

Commissioned or not, art in public spaces often challenges, enlightens and reflects counterculture ideas and emotions, giving voice to the ignored, illustrating history and tradition, and inspiring conversation among community members and tourists alike.

“Works that exist outside the traditional museum context are no longer precious, contained, bound by the space of the museum or the physicality of the frame,” says Lizy Dastin of the Mural Conservancy of Los Angeles. “They become a natural extension of everyday life, rather than a cultural break from it. This physical accessibility regarding space is attractive.

Street art is becoming more participatory. The artists themselves are accessible on social media, giving viewers the opportunity to engage with them directly.”

Our favorite destinations for haute graffiti? New York City never disappoints. Urban art aficionados also treasure Philadelphia, the birthplace of outdoor expression. San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New Orleans, Seattle, DC and Austin are also home to some spectacular curbside fine art—worthy of attention beyond an Instagram selfie, and free to discover solo, with the help of an app, or, in some communities, on guided walking and biking tours.

Balance.

Substance.

Finesse.

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Class

Learn to ignore changing fads and ace your look with updated classics.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

“YOU CAN’T BE SERIOUS,” respond-

go-to piece for spring 2017. Try Canali’s Kei jacket or a soft coat from Zegna or Samuelsohn. You’ll see the light. Throw it on over anything and immediately feel confident.

• Fitted shirts will make you look 10 years younger. If you’re hard to fit, custom is a great option (and it won’t break the bank).

• Never undervalue the importance of accessories. Without throwing your world off its axis, you can upgrade any look with something as simple as a printed pocket square, a great belt, fun socks or standout shoes.

• Give your wardrobe a fresh look by mixing it up. Pair your dress shoes with jeans and try leather or suede sneakers with your suit.

Wear your go-to sport coat with either jeans or dress pants. As Luciano Barbera explains it, “Dress up your sportswear and dress down your formalwear.”

• Explore spring’s many alternatives to denim: five-pocket pants in lightweight stretch fabrics that fit and feel terrific. Yes, blues and tans are forever, but why not consider a pair in a more interesting shade (or pattern)?

• Take advantage of our well-curated assortments and knowledgeable sellers. Their suggestions will open your eyes to new clothes that might just get you excited about menswear again.

ed my inner Little Lord Fauntleroy to the magazine my wife thrust in front of me. It was filled with images of spring men’s fashion, and breezy as it might be, it’s hard to visualize myself swooshing around in a Yohji Yamamoto men’s pleated skirt, or a tailored suit with shorts, or any of the attention-getting androgynous looks parading down today’s runways.

We men like to believe that our minds are occupied with loftier thoughts than deciphering fashion trends. Yet as much as we insist we don’t care about clothes, on some primal level we do.

Our end game is to stay relevant and not look like lost transports from forgotten decades. We’re living in the 21st century, and you’ve probably Iconic style transcends time: noticed menswear trending trimmer, Pierce Brosnan evolving with the times without (1995) and Cary pushing the envelope. It manages to be Grant (1959) look modern by incorporating innovative great in any era. fabrics and tailoring techniques, so the new looks are now as comfortable and easy-care as they are fashionable. In other words, today’s clothing will give you an enviable nonchalant style without drawing unwanted attention. For while I don’t mind engaging in an occasional fashion conversation, I’m certainly not interested in being the conversation.

As Yves Saint Laurent noted, “Fashion fades, style is eternal.”

With that in mind, here are a few tips to achieve a winning look and up your style game.

• Buy investment pieces from timeless designers like Canali, Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli. They’re on top for a reason: you can’t go wrong with quality tailoring and enduring style.

• Owning a versatile sport coat is mandatory. Think of it as the Swiss Army knife of your wardrobe. Comfortable, well tailored, lightweight and easy to dress up or down for any occasion. Let it become your

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TOP:JOHN STODDART/GETTY IMAGES; SUNSET BOULEVARD/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES

first person

Fashion

wheels

LIVING THE FANTASY Many a young boy’s fantasy is to someday drive an exotic sports car to its limit, and the supercar star of these dreams is often a Lamborghini. I’m not a young boy, but I finally had the opportunity to make this goal a reality when I spent an incredible morning at Dream Racing, the five-star driving experience at Las Vegas Motor Speedway: the only track where you can get behind the wheel of a real racing Lamborghini, Ferrari or Porsche.

I was picked up by the Dream Racing van and taken to their facility at Las Vegas Motor Speedway, known as “The Diamond of the Desert.” After a brief tour I was escorted to a room where a series of simulators give participants an enhanced 3D view of the track. The realism was remarkable and the virtual drive around the track was valuable preparation for getting behind the wheel. I met my personal instructor and he guided me through the twists and turns of the simulator exactly as he would soon do from the literal passenger seat. The next step was to be fitted for a very impressive driving suit and prolevel helmet.

As my instructor and I approached the Lamborghini Huracán, I was full of anticipation, wondering what the V10 engine with 610 horsepower would feel like at full revs. The car is equipped with carbon ceramic brakes, so there was no doubt I would be able to slow down should I find myself in trouble. As I got strapped in and observed my surroundings, I felt as if I was entering the cockpit of a jet fighter.

Upon firing up the engine, I began to sense the potential of 600-

plus horsepower. I exited the pits, got on the throttle and felt the surge of power. As a 4x4, the Huracán took the corners with ease, encouraging me to increase my speed with each lap. My instructor and I were able to communicate clearly through the microphones in our helmets; he pointed out the fastest line through the corners and made other brilliant suggestions as we lapped the course. As we pulled into the pits, I thought it couldn’t get any better. But I didn’t yet know what Dream Racing had in mind for me to drive next.

We were then met by Dream Racing president Adriano de Micheli and marketing director Steve Jones. They asked me about my prior racing experiences and apparently felt satisfied I would be able to handle the Huracán Super Trofeo Racing Car. (I was scheduled to drive a Ferrari 458, which I was rather looking forward to, but de Micheli was prepared to offer me the ultimate.) As they rolled it in I was astounded and eager to get behind the wheel.

I was not disappointed. This is a machine with astonishing power and technology whose sole purpose is to dominate every race car in its class. The vehicle’s 5.2-liter V10 engine produces 612 horsepower at 8,250 RPM. With its 6-speed, 3-disc racing clutch and F1 paddle shift, the car catapults from 0 to 60 in 3 seconds. Its top speed is 205 MPH, but with traction control, ABS and 18” Pirelli P Zero racing slicks, the car still sticks through corners as if it were on rails.

For all you boys and girls who dream of supercars, the fantasy can be realized at Dream Racing in Las Vegas. (So keep feeding that piggy bank.)

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IMAGES COURTESY OF DREAM RACING

A racing experience straight out of your wildest dreams. BY DAVID A. ROSE

spirits

Inventive

DRINKING FROM HOUSE-MADE INGREDIENTS TO ORGANIC BOOZE, YOUR COCKTAIL, ELEVATED. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON manipulate ingredients. At SushiSamba London and New York, bartender Richard Woods has revitalized the Sex and the City-era drinks menu into a range of eye-catching (and delicious) “Culinary Cocktails” for the Instagram generation. Garnishes include whole peppers and Wagyu beef, while drinks are enhanced with ingredients like avocado puree and barely legal spices.

“My role has always been creative,” says Woods, who gained fame as London’s “most imaginative bartender” at the bar/restaurant Duck and Waffle. “I worked with chefs at both Duck and Waffle and SushiSamba, so there is definitely a culinary element.” His delicious Tom Yam cocktail (cilantro vodka, pureed cilantro, serrano pepper, ginger and lemon, sashimi garnish), for example, is a riff on a classic Thai soup. Keeping up with the times, he recently added cold brew coffee cocktails and complex mocktails to the menu.

Being creative isn’t enough anymore. A new wave of “conscientious cocktails”—featuring organic or sustainably produced spirits, locally procured ingredients or ecofriendly techniques—is spreading across the globe. In Chicago, Nandini Khaund of Cindy’s Rooftop has created the Howl at the Jun cocktail incorporating locally produced kombucha (a fermented honey tea).

The cuisine at Lazy Bear in San Francisco is driven by seasonal produce from local growers, and bar manager Nicolas Torres reflects this in his drinks: a majority of the modifiers are made in-house, including black lime bitters, aquavit and a car acara shrub. Sourcing other ingredients is “all about relationships,” says Torres. “We want our suppliers to care about their craft as much as we do.”

s little as 15 years ago, even the top bars in the country relied on ingredients like store-bought sour mix, nuclearred maraschino cherries, and a variety of other chemicallaced mixers in their cocktails. Then about a decade ago, the rise of the “craft” cocktail speakeasy began. Now even your corner bartender is incorporating fresh ingredients, infusing his own simple syrup with rare vanilla bean, or adding cedar smoke to her whiskey.

The elevation of the humble cocktail to a culinary work of art (and science) involves many steps: research and development, interaction with chefs, and a constant desire on the part of the bartender to explore local greenmarkets, ethnic specialty stores and century-old bar books for inspiration.

“Not everything at the bar is what you can get in a store,” says Craig Ventrice, the bar manager at Kawa Ni, a Westport, Connecticut-based restaurant inspired by Japanese pubs. “There are house-made syrups and tinctures we do in the back, with ingredients Chef is using at the moment. It’s a process: it often takes a few failures to get a drink to work.” On the menu, you’ll find elements like mint-infused Campari, ginger-infused Fernet or smoked almond syrup. Even the casual Sake Bombs feature unlikely ingredients like Yuzu (an Asian citrus) or Thai chili syrup.

Customizing and creativity in ingredients can approach “mad scientist” levels: At both 69 Colebrook Road in London and Booker + Dax in Manhattan, bartenders employ lab tools like rotovaps, centrifuges and high-tech heat pokers to clarify, re-distill or otherwise

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S P R I N G 2 017 M E N ’ S F O OT W E A R C O LLE CT I O N

LEWI S

end page

WHY CLOTHES MATTER Musings on the art of dressing.

BY JARROD WEBER

n my life, clothing has always been a family affair.

My earliest memories of fashion date back to my mom encouraging me to select my own outfits when I was six years old. I didn’t realize it then, but this was the beginning of my addiction to clothing.

Or more accurately, to the importance of wearing the right clothes.

Even at that young age, matching items in my limited wardrobe felt like a huge responsibility. Although I tried to get my mom to help—“Mommy, which sneakers go with this sweatsuit?”—her response was always, “Which do you like?”

Years later, when I was in law school, Weber, right, with a female friend was praising my fashion his dad, a fashion executive. sensibility to a group of students. One of the students remembered me from high school as “the guy who would tuck his flannel shirts into his sweatpants!”

My father is a successful fashion industry exec who has headed big companies like PVH and LVMH. One of his maxims is that how you package yourself is as important as how you package your products.

How you dress is one component of this; how you speak, how you treat people and how you think are other factors relevant to success, in business and in life.

But clearly, your style says a lot about who you are. Your ability to put yourself together tells a story. Are you neat or sloppy? Modern or traditional? Creative or conformist? All these cues send a signal.

Clothes tell your story before you even open your mouth. Is this fair?

Nope, but it’s reality. Or as my father would say, “Fair is for kids.”

I, for one, believe in suits. I believe in dressing up, in looking the part. I practiced law for almost nine years at a firm whose dress code

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was “business casual unless seeing clients.” Unfortunately, few guys have a real handle on business casual, and it was embarrassing how some of these educated lawyers would come to work. My father always taught me that there’s no substitute for good taste. I have learned that in a business environment, it pays to always look your best. These are not your friends, they are associates and, like it or not, you’re competing. The senior-most people at the firm set the example, and they always looked professional, even on days with no client contact. Bottom line, it never hurts to look your best at all times.

And I believe that most men look their best—most professional, most in control— when wearing a suit. Think of a general in the military, or a pilot: the uniform paints a picture of competence and strength. In the military there are precise rules for how to dress: not a single button can be out of place or a lapel creased. These rules are there for a reason: to create an image of order and respect.

I’ve recently given up law for a career in fashion, where my style consciousness serves me well. Although creative casual is acceptable, you’ll always find me wearing a suit, and almost always with a tie.

Ties are no longer mandatory these days, even in fine restaurants, but they’re a great way to complete an outfit and add a note of distinction and personality.

I sometimes wonder whether, in my designer suits and ties, some people might consider my style a bit too perfect, too contrived, too planned out when in fact, I’m just a guy who appreciates nice clothes.

Be that as it may, let’s all take the time to appreciate the person inside the clothing: the substance behind the style. For that, I have learned, is what truly matters.

HUBERT WHITE FORUM SS 2017