Hubert White

Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2014

INSIDE LOOK: SUIT SECRETS REVEALED LIFE IN THE FAST LANE: ZEGNA DESIGNS FOR MASERATI

THE LUXE LIFE

CONTENTS Hubert White 747 Nicollet Mall Minneapolis, Minnesota 55402-1719 612-339-9200 hubertwhite.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

FEATURES

DEPARTMENTS

6

4 10 14 36 38 44 48

Planes, Trains and Automobiles: Our Eton Travelogue 40 Anniversary: The Soundtrack of Our Lives 42 History: Honoring Arlington

FASHION 12 18 20 22 30

Profile: Brunello Cucinelli Details: Pairing Patterns Tailoring: Inside a Suit The Luxe Life 5 Fall Essentials

Welcome Letter Ask Forum The Fashion Forum World Scene Wheels: Designed to Thrill Travel: Magic Kingdom End Page: My Father, Myself

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

P E R F O R M A N C E .

C O L L E C T I O N .

S O F T .

welcome

IT’S ALL ABOUT RELATIONSHIPS When asked recently about the secret to our success over the years, I was able to give a one word answer: relationships. This rather surprised the interviewer, who was looking for a much more complicated and lengthy response. She was expecting me to talk about the iconic brands represented in our store and the beautiful way the merchandise is presented. Or maybe go on about the success we have enjoyed since our remodel a year and a half ago. Or perhaps discuss marketing, merchandising, selling or any of the many other activities necessary to be a successful retailer.

Instead I went on and on about the value we put on our relationships with our clients, our fellow staff members, our vendors, our advisors and even our competitors. If these are in order, our merchandising, marketing and selling decisions will follow and ensure continued success. But if we let any of these relationships falter, continued success will be very difficult to achieve. So yes, it is about the relationships!

Brad Sherman and I had an opportunity last spring to build on our relationship with one of our key vendors, Eton. We visited their production and design facilities in Stockholm and Ganghester, Sweden and met with their key management and design staff. The pride Eton’s people have in their company and its product is truly inspiring. It made us appreciate the unique quality of their shirts even more. See the photos beginning on page 6 of this issue for a glimpse into our visit.

Thank you for being a part of our lives and business,

Bob White Owner

When Bob and I received word that not only had our our applications to Eton College been accepted but that we were going to attend on full scholarships, our bags were packed.

We kissed our families goodbye and headed to the airport, prepared for 36 hours on planes, trains and automobiles.

The trip included three cities in three days. Gothenburg was our hub. From there we traveled by car into Ganghester, a small hillside village in southwest Sweden and home to the original Eton factory, where we did our “undergrad” work. Back to Gothenburg for lunch and then a spectacular high-speed train trip to Stockholm. This great city is Eton’s other home, where they have their design offices and retail laboratory.

When you attend an institution of education, opportunity abounds to make lasting relationships.

Our “graduating” class was made up of a unique group of Eton dealers, bloggers and stylists as well as Eton’s fantastic “faculty.” They educated us, fed us and nurtured us in the ways of Eton as we evolved into classmate companions. We drank the Kool Aid and became part of the Eton family.

Enjoy our travelogue!

Class is now in session.

Sweden ETON College, here we come...

Ganghester Gothenburg

Stockholm

Arrived groggy, but excited to be in Sweden!

Ganghester is small, quiet and welcoming. After a few hours to re-coop, it was off to a cocktail reception and then dinner in a traditional Swedish restaurant.

Incredible food – Sweden is the new hot foodie country – great bevies, and plenty of introductions and toasts. We were well on our way to becoming indoctrinated into the Eton family.

Speeding along at 110 MPH, heading to Stockholm.

Stalking the streets of Stockholm with Eton global sales Director Erik Wilkinson.

Back fo r appetit seconds, Bob e for oy sters an shows off his d her ri ng.

Getting final instructions on how to consume a Midsummer cocktail.

The final exam was competitive and difficult. The assignment: design an Eton necktie. The best design was produced for the upcoming holiday delivery.

The winner was chosen the night of our graduation by Jan Borghardt, designer emeritus for Eton, and quite the ladies’ man. One of the stunning female stylists on the trip was the winner. Bob and I received our diplomas at 1:00 AM, after a traditional Swedish feast, a preview to Midsummer, a Swede’s excuse to stay awake during almost 48 hours of daylight.

FALL 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Probably not. Although menswear is evolution rather than revolution, suits that are more than five years old, even from the best makers, will definitely look dated: trousers too long and baggy, jackets too roomy, shoulders too padded. Designers have gradually gone slimmer in suits, sportcoats and trousers, and fabrics have evolved so that today’s suits are more comfortable and travel-friendly than the old stuff in your closet.

We’re betting you’ll find our fall ’14 suits so comfortable that you’ll choose to wear them in more casual settings, even when no suit is required.

Q:

Is it okay to text or email my sales associate when I have a wardrobe question? How can I maximize our relationship?

Not only is it okay, but they would totally appreciate it! (Well maybe not at 3:00 a.m…) Our sales people have a wealth of information that can help you look your best every day. They can email you photos of new items as they arrive in store that will work with what you’ve already bought.

They can inform you about the bestfitting jeans. They can help you

10

Q:

I see that a lot of my favorite brands have their own stores: do you carry the same styles that they do?

Sometimes there’s crossover, but we try to customize our mix to the needs of our community. While fashion has become somewhat international, our buyers know their customers personally so it’s easy for them to fine-tune assortments to specific tastes and lifestyles.

Another advantage of shopping an independent store: since we carry so many top brands, we can suggest how to mix your favorite pieces so you’re not dressed head-to-toe in a single designer. This type of brandblending adds creativity and personality to your look so you won’t see yourself coming and going. Stop by and we’ll show you how to do it!

COURTESY OF ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA

Q:

Other than for weddings and special events, I don’t wear suits much these days. Is it okay to pull out what’s in my closet for occasional dress-up events?

match colors and patterns or figure out which tie to wear with which shirt collar. (For example, your new skinny tie is not likely to work with a cutaway collar shirt, but yes, you can wear the brown suede shoes with your gray suit!) They can also suggest the perfect gift, wrap it and send it without you needing to leave your desk.

Never be afraid to contact your sales associate for any fashion-related issue: their passion for fine clothing is the reason they chose this career, and your trust in them is the ultimate compliment.

profile

The new Cucinelli tailored clothing is crafted in the recently purchased D’Avenza factory, reputed to be the finest in the world. “Expanding into fine tailoring was a natural evolution of our menswear collection,” Cucinelli explains. Since suits require a different level of expertise than sportswear, he sought out, purchased and collaborated with this highly respected clothing facility, working carefully with the artisans to ensure that the suits have his particular fit and relaxed sensibility. These are full-canvas garments, entirely hand-made. It’s “THE JACKET’S HALFLINED INTERIOR the shoulder that’s particularly unique: MINIMIZES THE semi-constructed so that there’s enough WEIGHT.” structure for shape (so it doesn’t look Brunello Cucinelli like a sweater) but not so much to make it stiff and unnatural. “The broad but soft shoulder paired with the trimmer waist and shorter length of the jacket creates a modern aesthetic. The minimal construction allows for easy wear; the half-lined interior minimizes the weight and allows the jacket to conform to the body,” Cucinelli explains.

While the company has always been known for elegant sportswear, the new emphasis is on clothes with a more tailored image. Even outerwear has a more sartorial touch: overcoats are about six centimeters longer. Fabrics are less tech-y and more sartorial, many in fine wools and cashmeres. The look is still relaxed, but definitely more professional.

Brunello Cucinelli started out in 1978 at age 25 with a small workshop, evolving his business into an international luxury brand with more than 1,200 employees. Based in the 14th-century hamlet of Solomeo, Cucinelli restored a castle to its ancient splendor and purchased a second facility at the foot of the town. In addition to his world-class fashion, he is recognized for his humanistic ideals, placing people at the center of his enterprise, always with respect for the environment. In 2013 he received an award from the Ministry for Cultural Heritage for contributing to the moral, cultural and civic growth of his country.

Brunello Cucinelli has been recognized as a custodian of beauty and creator of a humanistic business based on respect for his workers, and for the environment.

Reinventing THE SUIT

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI IS CHANGING THE WAY MEN LOOK, AND FEEL, IN A SUIT.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

T

hroughout the ages, men’s clothing designers have tried to create suits that convey both power and comfort, yet too often it’s a tradeoff. Power suits are frequently rigid and/or overly structured so the wearer looks uncomfortable; soft suits can lack shape and substance meaning the wearer loses the presence and panache that a proper suit conveys. But with his recent foray into tailored clothing, Brunello Cucinelli is reinventing the suit as a luxury garment that men can live in!

12

Avant Garden 2014 is sponsored by

Platinum Key

The Walker Art Center’s Annual Benefit

Gold Key

Silver Key

Saturday, September 13

r

Auction

Lead Entertainment

Gold Key Entertainment

Corporate VIP Lounge

Valet

Media partner

Avant Garden 2014

Our 75th Anniversary Year

Minneapolis Sculpture Garden For event details and ticket levels, visit walkerart.org/avantgarden. ©2014 Walker Art Center

the FASHION forum PITTI PARTY

T

wice a year, the Tuscan city of Florence, Italy welcomes 1,050 exhibitors and more than 30,000 national and international fashion industry insiders to Pitti Uomo, a trade show like no other. Staged in a 16th-century fortress, Pitti is a place to see and be seen: a promenade affectionately known as Peacock Avenue is packed with men dressed to the nines, fervently followed by an equally impressive number of photographers from magazines and websites worldwide. Espresso is sipped in equal measure to bottles of Italian beer and the quintessential cocktail, an Aperol Spritz.

At the most recent Pitti showcasing spring ’15 fashion, the world-renowned tenor Andrea Bocelli kicked the show off with an exclusive one-night performance with the Cameristi del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino that included an emotive rendition of Schubert’s Ave Maria. The next morning the Prime Minister of Italy officially opened the show, followed by a whirlwind of fashion shows and festas.

These included a Gucci museum cocktail party, a Z Zegna performance replete with acrobats and models, an Eton garden party at the Grand Hotel Villa Medici, a Brunello Cucinelli dinner at Il Giardino Torrigiani and an Ermanno Scervino presentation at the Forte Belvedere (where Kim Kardashian and Kanye West held their nuptials) with guests including... Kanye West!

Should you ever find yourself in Florence during this celebration of style, soak it all in. It’s one of the sartorial wonders of the — William Buckley world.

14

LOOKING GOOD What do women want? To answer the age-old question, we surveyed 100 women and asked them to prioritize what they notice first in terms of male appearance. Not surprisingly, trumped only by good grooming and a great smile, women pay attention to what guys wear. Clearly, good clothes speak volumes about a man, followed closely by (in order of priority) his eyes, his shoes and his watch.

To the question “I would immediately fall in love with a guy wearing ___ because ___,” we got some terrific responses. A lot of women mentioned “nice shoes” because “they indicate good taste.”

“A gorgeous sportcoat” because “it exudes confidence, charm and casual sophistication…” “A cashmere sweater” because “it shows he’s able to care for something delicate and valuable: today a sweater, tomorrow a woman…” “Great smelling aftershave or cologne...” “Upscale casual clothes” because “it shows he’s relaxed and comfortable with himself…” And perhaps our favorite: “Anything that looks like he put some thought into it!” Because “dressing well is an indicator of self-confidence and a display of respect for colleagues and friends. If he puts thought into his appearance, one can assume he’ll put thought into his work and his relationships…”

Time to go shopping!

— Nora McCarten

f i n e s w e d i s h s h i rt m a k e r s i n c e 

The Fashion Forum

J

SPRING ’15 FORECAST

BRIGHT EYED

ust because summer is over doesn’t mean you should ignore your eyewear. For men this fall, the Vision Council’s Eyecessorize industry report defines the major trends as simple, clean-cut square and circular shapes, colored lenses in standout shades of green and blue, and metallic and patterned accents on the bridge and arms. In addition, Eyecessorize also forecasts an increased popularity in colored frames that offer a welcome break from the standard black and tortoise options. These new takes on classic eyewear will keep you seeing the bright side all year long. — NoraMcCarten

We interviewed Sabine Le Chatelier, of Premiere Vision (the world’s leading fabric trade show) for her take on men’s spring fashion. Here’s what to expect when the weather warms up: “According to the top fabric mills, suiting fabrics will have a more casual feel for spring ’15, a trend that will influence all categories of menswear.

Fabrics will feature more synthetics in the blend, creating a somewhat lustrous finish: not exactly shiny but technicalinspired in a contemporary way. Lighter colors are taking hold in suits and sportcoats: cool tones like pale grays and shades of blue. There’s also a strong linen trend in suits, but very sophisticated, a clear departure from the soft crinkled linens of yesterday. The new linens are blended with cotton or wool for a fresh modern look with a rustic touch.

“In ties, expect more non-silk styles that reinforce the casual message. In sportswear, you’ll see new sophisticated knit tops in luxury yarns, fashioned into slim T-shirts and polos that work under a suit or sportcoat. And don’t be afraid to wear prints, even florals: these are what will separate the men from the boys…”

— Karen Alberg Grossman

STYLISH READS 20th Century Fashion: 100 Years of Apparel Ads by Jim Heimann and Alison A. Nieder is an eyecatching retrospective of the milestones that shaped the world’s style. Creative imagery of 400 fashion advertisements from the 1900s forms a timeline of the trendsetting looks that defined the century. With text in English, French and German, 20th Century Fashion documents the inception of revered brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein and follows their development as exemplified by their ads. As the years (and the book) progress, a fullpage visual captures the mood of each decade. The beauty and individuality of the advertisements display the overarching advancements in art, print, photography and clothing designs made in the last century.

Men in This Town by Giuseppe Santamaria is a uniquely presented portrayal of the modern man’s sartorial style. Through interviews and observations, Santamaria allows us to get to know a variety of creatively dressed men in their natural habitats, from New York, London and Milan to Tokyo and Sydney. Candid street shots capture the eccentric and intriguing trends of each region, taking us on a journey across the globe to explore how each culture’s traditions impact the way men dress.

The Glass of Fashion, a memoir by Cecil Beaton, shares a man’s muses, influences and encounters in the 1920s fashion world. As a portraitist and photographer of fashion’s top-notch names, Beaton became famous for his impeccable taste and discerning eye. He tells how his experiences with the luxurious likes of Dior and Chanel combined with his personal realities to sculpt his view on fashion and life. First published in 1954, The Glass of Fashion is back on the rack to inspire a new generation of fashionistas.

— Louisa Blasier

16

6KRS Artfully

MAGAZINE

VISIT ARTFULLIVINGMAGAZINE.COM/SHOP

ArtfulLivingMagazine.com /artfullivingmag

Pairing Patterns

Typically, there are two mistakes fledgling fashionistas make in color selections. For those who favor eye-popping color combinations, the two most obvious are 1) choosing colors that clash and 2) being too flamboyant. The other, particularly now that tonal ensembles are again stylish, is selecting colors so monochromatic they fade into one another.

If eye-popping color is your fashion mantra, avoid colors that clash, or are flashy and loud. (Always get a second opinion.) Remember to alternate the tonal intensity of garments immediately next to one another; avoid pairing a flamboyantly colored necktie with an equally outrageous dress shirt.

Remember, opposites attract.

If monochrome is more your cup of tea, add visual interest by varying the color hue in each garment. Or, layer different, but related, surface textures atop similarly colored garments.

Marry a nappy cotton flannel shirt and a texturally rich wool necktie to a cashmere sportcoat, then accent with a wool, linen or loosely woven cotton pocket square.

SIMPLE HOW-TOS FOR ADDING VISUAL INTEREST.

BY ANDY STINSON DIRECTION Never mind John Molloy, America’s former selfproclaimed fashion guru, who warned three generations of men against mixing motifs when he wrote in his Dress for Success to “never put two patterns together.” Those familiar with fashion history credit this admonition with putting a near 35-year chill on adventurously styled menswear. Also to be ignored is Molloy’s equally absurd “dress code rule” for pattern-mix management: “Always separate patterns by a solid.” Mind Molloy’s strict advice and you’ll appear dated and conservative.

There are, however, a few “soft rules” that can be used to guide you toward interesting, handsome style statements that consistently garner rave reviews and admiring glances.

A pattern that runs in one direction should never be positioned immediately next to a garment with a pattern that runs either 1) in the same direction, or 2) at a 90-degree angle. Instead, choose a non-directional (polkadot, paisley, foulard), diagonal (repp), or multidirectional (plaid) complement.

MOOD Sometimes called “attitude,” mood typically refers to a garment’s seasonal theme or its

18

position on the elegant-tocasual spectrum. For example, novelty and conversational neckwear, along with some repp and diagonal-striped ties, are typically sportcoat motifs and shouldn’t be paired with a serious dress suit. Seasonally speaking, madras plaids and linens are most appropriate during the warmer months and should be worn with a blazer or a lightweight spring suit.

SCALE Scale refers to a pattern’s size.

Generally subtle in execution and sometimes indiscernible at a distance, small- or micro-scale motifs include pencil and pinstripes, miniature paisleys, pin dots, graph checks and tattersalls. Large scale motifs are visually bold, brazen and aggressively executed: Bengal and awning stripes, giant paisleys, large scale geometrics, oversized “nickel” dots and windowpane plaids.

The rule of thumb is to significantly vary the scale of each element in your outfit. To achieve a visually dramatic but still sophisticated ensemble, complement a narrow pencil-stripe dress shirt with a bold diagonalstripe or giant paisley tie.

TEXTURE Opposites don’t generally attract when it comes to mixing and matching textures. For example, a cashmere or wool flannel tie is best paired with a suit in a similarly lofty fabric.

Likewise, pair matte finishes together, and complement visually radiant elements with garments of a similar luster.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN KLUTCH, STYLING BY SHYAM PATEL

details

COLOR

tailoring

Exceptional Interlinings Zegna suits are full-canvas and made with the best interlinings in the world. This allows the jacket to lay beautifully against your body and ensures longevity.

Superior Production

Quality Buttons

In all, 500 hands from the familyowned, vertically integrated company contribute to the making of each suit, from acquiring the wool to weaving the innovative fabrics to the final finishing work on your barchetta breast pocket.

Buttons are made of highquality Corozo, genuine horn or mother of pearl and color coated in-house to perfectly match the hue of your garment.

LUXURY SUIT CONSTRUCTION

Modern Fit

Fine Fabric

The slightly shorter jacket and a softer, more sculpted silhouette will make you look and feel like a million bucks.

The fine wool fabric “breathes,” so it’s cool and comfortable even in overheated office buildings.

Inside a Suit

At first glance, these two dark gray suit jackets appear to be similar. But take a closer look (or feel) and you’ll quickly see that color is the only thing they have in common.

The jacket on the left is made by Ermenegildo Zegna, produced in its European factories from one of its proprietary high-performance fabrics. On the right is a scratchy, boxy bargain version, available at a national menswear chain famous for its price-slashing promotions. Sure, you can get three for under $500… but you get what you pay for.

20

Poor Fit Stiff shoulders and a full, boxy cut look unnatural and out of date. You deserve better!

Uncomfortable Low armholes make moving uncomfortable: every time you lift your arms, the entire body of your jacket lifts with you.

Inferior Fabric Generic, utilitarian fabric is rough and wrinkles easily.

IMAGES BY BRIAN KLUTCH, JACKET COURTESY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, PRODUCTION ASSISTANT SHYAM PATEL, SPECIAL THANKS TO TIM PAIT

BARGAIN SUIT CONSTRUCTION

Cheap Interlinings Shoddy inner workings are glued into the suit, so after only a few cleanings, the glue will begin to wear down and come through the fabric in unsightly patches.

In a spoof that aired earlier this year on SNL, comedian Vanessa Bayer suggested that “affordable and absorbent” suits from this national chain were better suited to wiping spills and soaking up bacon grease. Because of the chain’s “innovative buy-one-get-three-free pricing,” she explains, “they’re effectively cheaper than paper towels” and “I can feel good about throwing them away when I’m done.”

We cringe at the idea of a disposable wardrobe and prefer to invest in classic clothing that’s made to last. Come into the store and see for yourself why top-quality tailoring is the obvious choice.

21

the LUXE LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY & WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY

VINTAGE FLAIR

SUBTLE BOLDNESS

SIMPLE ELEGANCE

5

FALL ESSENTIALS THE MOST IMPORTANT ITEMS OF THE SEASON—AND HOW TO WEAR THEM.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE STUDIOS / ART DIRECTION & STYLING BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

1.

THE BOOT You’ve got dress shoes and sneakers, but what do you wear with those casual inbetween looks? This boot is the answer. Mid-height boots keep you warm while still looking fashionable, and suede or leather can be worn throughout the winter except on the wettest of days. (Don’t forget to waterproof them before the first wear.)

FALL ESSENTIALS

2.

THE CUTAWAY

COLLAR SHIRT Formerly seen only on solid dress shirts, cutaway collars can now be found as a dressier detail on patterned sport shirts. It’s fine to skip the tie, or try one in knit, wool or cashmere for a fun departure from the standard silk.

3.

THE SLIM SUIT Before fabric or even brand, the first thing others will notice about your suit is the fit. With its narrower leg, shorter jacket, and all around trim look, the slim suit can complement any man, no matter his age or size. Aim for a very slight break in the pants; the hem should just caress the top of your shoe.

FALL ESSENTIALS

4.

THE SOFT COAT This deconstructed jacket takes the bulk out of layering.

You can move easily, stay cool, and look put together all at the same time. Because of its softer expression, it’s much more at home with jeans, cargoes and 5-pocket pants than your stiffer, structured sportcoats. It’s a versatile alternative to a sweater or can easily be layered over one.

You’ll be 10 times more comfortable but look just as appropriate.

COPY BY SHYAM PATEL. FASHION ASSISTANTS LOUISA BLASIER AND SHYAM PATEL. GROOMING BY EMILEA MAUS. MODELS EDUARDO RAMOS AND CHRIS MOSIER @ FORD.

5.

THE WOOL

5-POCKET PANT The wool 5-pocket pant is dressier than a jean, but just as comfortable.

It’s warmer than a chino or twill, but just as elegant. It can be dressed up or down to take you from the office to a nice evening out.

Trust us: you’ll be living in this style all season.

world scene

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Experience life’s little luxuries.

BALLET BECOMES YOU

Ballet Hispanico is the foremost Latino dance company in the United States. This dazzling young group of wonderfully talented dancers, with a repertoire of over 100 works, creates a brilliant theatrical experience performed to sold-out audiences in America, Europe and South America. “We combine the artistry, technique and physicality of the dancers and imbue ballet with contemporary and Spanish dance,” explains artistic director Eduardo Vilaro. “It’s the passion of the Latino world.” In 2015, Ballet Hispanico will be appearing across the country in cities including Chicago, New York and Washington D.C. To get the insider experience, sign on as a Patron: you’ll meet the dancers, watch rehearsals and even travel with the company.

Near the markets and not far from the Majorelle Gardens in Marrakech, secluded on a quiet, narrow street, a modest door opens to an elaborate atrium lined with balconies in rich wood. A former 19th-century palace, the Riad Ayadina is a mixture of light and shadows, cozy nooks and open spaces. The three rooms and six suites have four-poster beds (strewn with rose petals to celebrate your arrival) and copper baths.

There’s a swimming pool, hot tub and a spa offering massages, facials and a traditional Moroccan Hammam bath. The charming French owner oversees accommodations and personally arranges the lavish menus.

Have breakfast on the roof terrace with views over the old city into the mountains, and dine by candlelight on a three-course fusion of French and Moroccan cuisine in your own private courtyard.

36

TOP: COURTESY OF EDUARDO PATINO

ROYAL RETREAT

THIS DESK IS YOUR NEW BEST FRIEND

NEED A LIFT? Davos, Switzerland is the highest city in Europe, home to the amazing Parsenn Mountain (a favorite of freestylers and snowboarders), and nearby, the new InterContinental Davos.

This opulent hotel with a unique golden egg design by Oikos has spacious rooms, each with a balcony overlooking Davos and the mountains. There are three restaurants (at the Capricorn, an alpine brasserie, culinary director Alex Kroll has created a surprisingly delicious hay soup, featuring a Champagne/white wine base and hay grown at or above 2,000 meters). The Alpine Spa uses La Prairie products and indigenous herbs.

37

If you work hard at your desk, it might be time to choose one that works as hard as you do.

Incorporating the principle that human beings feel better when they move around periodically, the Stir Kinetic Desk can “learn” your habits and remind you when it’s time to change positions. It can be programmed with your standing and sitting height preferences (a simple double tap will move it up or down), and can even sense and track your standing time and the calories burned while you’re on your feet. Plus it’s WiFi and Bluetooth enabled. Now sit. Good desk.

wheels DESIGNED TO

Thrill

A LOOK INSIDE THE MASERATI QUATTROPORTE ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA LIMITED EDITION.

BY DAVID A. ROSE

Italy is renowned for many fine products: cuisine, wines and luxury fashions instantly come to mind. But high on the list of Italian gems are its exotic sports cars. Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati set the bar for fast and exquisitely designed racing machines.

Every so often this automotive world crosses paths with the world of high-end fashions, but rarely have the results been so intriguing.

To celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Maserati marque, the company has collaborated with top fashion house Ermenegildo Zegna to offer a limited series of 100 Maserati Quattroporte highperformance luxury cars. The 100 numbered cars represent each year Maserati has been in production.

An exclusive Owner’s When two highly respected global compaCollection kit is nies of this caliber work together on a project, Ermenegildo Zegna’s gift with purchase. it becomes a celebration of Italian production The kit includes and design not just from a standpoint of personal accessories and 10 yards of Zegna mechanical know-how, but also of fabric innosilk in the same vation. Ermenegildo Zegna was established as chevron pattern used a fine woolen mill in 1910 and today is known on the car’s seats. not only for its clothing designs, but also for its unparalleled creation of original fabrics.

Reminiscent of the finest Zegna suit, the silk fabric used for the car’s roof lining exhibits a tasteful and classic touch. The combination of leather and silk appears in soft shades of gray and cappuccino, which exude the tone of a Zegna menswear collection and give the vehicle its strong masculine identity. The exterior shade, developed exclusively for the Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition, is called Platinum Silk. The exterior appeal of the car is further enhanced by the stunning 20” polished wheels.

To drive a beautiful car is very satisfying, but the experience would be quite lacking if the car’s performance did not match its elegant looks. In this regard, the Maserati Quattroporte Ermenegildo Zegna Limited Edition will not disappoint. Thanks to its twin turbo V/8 and 530 horsepower, the car can catapult from 0 to 60 MPH in less than 4.7 seconds and reach a top speed of 191. Not only will the owner turn heads as he cruises along Main Street, but the vehicle’s speed and handling will impress even the most accomplished driver.

38

All things come from the Earth XENOPHANES

THE JOYS OF YOUTH, THE MAGIC OF MUSIC, CAPTURED IN PHOTOGRAPHS.

BY WAYNE MAIBAUM

“What would you think if I sang out of tune Would you stand up and walk out on me Lend me your ears and I’ll sing you a song And I’ll try not to sing out of key I get by with a little help from my friends...”

“Saving up your money for a rainy day Giving all your clothes to charity Last night the wife said Oh boy, when you’re dead You don’t take nothing with you but your soul…”

40

COURTESY OF MORRISON HOTEL GALLERY: BEATLES IN SURF BY CHARLES TRAINOR; BEATLES IN LIMO BY CURT GUNTHER

anniversary

Soundtrack of Our Lives

A recent exhibit at Soho’s Morrison Hotel Gallery, curated by Julian Lennon and showcasing some never-before-seen photographs of The Beatles, reminded me of why we still love them. For 50 years, The Beatles have been credited with social change, from setting fashion trends to spurring the fall of communism! But for most of us, their importance is more personal: simply put, their music makes us feel good, restoring the promises of youth and providing a universal connection that transcends age, race, religion, politics and all such superficial barriers. (Imagine!) Our basic human emotions— love, loss, longing, regret, remorse, elation—continue to resonate in each resounding melody. And mysteriously, the older we get, the more we seem to get it.

ARLINGTON A SALUTE TO THE 150TH

ANNIVERSARY OF ARLINGTON NATIONAL CEMETERY.

BY CALLY JAMIS VENNARE

Arlington National Cemetery has a rich legacy as one of our national treasures. It serves as the final resting place for more than 400,000 service members, veterans and their families from all branches of the military.

“Although not officially a cemetery until 1864, we have veterans from every one of America’s conflicts, beginning with the American Revolution,” says command historian Dr. Stephen Carney. Arlington is still an active cemetery, conducting nearly 7,000 services per year.

If you listen closely, the unmistakable sound of Taps might guide you from the evocative eternal flame, marking the gravesite of President John F. Kennedy, to the majestic Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, guarded day and night by the distinguished Tomb Guard sentinel, or Old Guard. Considered to be the very best of the elite 3rd U.S. Infantry Regiment, the Old Guard is the oldest active-duty infantry unit in the Army,

serving our nation since 1784.

Sunglasses gleaming, shoes shining, uniform pressed and fitted to perfection, each guard marches 21 steps behind the Tomb, pausing for 21 seconds before turning and repeating the process. Back and forth, stoic and proud. Footsteps always clicking in sync with the number 21, symbolic of the highest honor that can be bestowed upon the American soldier “Known But to God”: the 21-gun salute.

Beyond the Tomb, more sights and sounds remain to be seen, including the open-air Memorial Amphitheatre, where crowds gather to hear performances and dedications, and wreath-laying ceremonies that pay respect to our nation’s fallen heroes. It’s no wonder that Arlington National Cemetery hosts over three million visitors each year, including dignitaries from around the world. After 150 years, its significance and legacy remain stronger than ever.

A MUSICAL TRIBUTE Scott Eyerly’s Arlington Sons illuminates a universal experience—the changing of the guard between generations—in a uniquely American context. The 12-minute duet by bass-baritone David Pittsinger and his son Richard honors David’s late father, a U.S. Army veteran who served as a distinguished Tomb Guard at Arlington National Cemetery in the 1950s. It is believed to be the first-ever musical work written for a real-life father and son. Following premiere performances with the West Point Band and the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra and a release on iTunes earlier this year, Arlington Sons was praised by D.C. radio station Classical WETA: “Through this lyrical and intimate musical work, a family’s moment on a sunny hilltop becomes a loving lesson in honor, sacrifice and patriotism.” Pictured at right is Richard Mayne Pittsinger, who served as Tomb Guard from 1954 to 1955.

42

COURTESY OF ISTOCK

history

Honoring

travel

THE CHARMS OF BHUTAN ARE NOT WHAT YOU’D THINK.

By Andrew Isaacs

MAGIC KINGDOM The sole surviving Himalayan Buddhist Kingdom, Bhutan is a tiny land of big surprises. Instead of GDP, they believe in GNH: gross national happiness. Cut off from the rest of the world until the 1960s, this remote, pristine nation has recently opened its doors to civilization. But just a crack.

Still, it is said there’s been more change in Bhutan during these past eight years (cell phones, satellite TV, tourists!) than there had been in the past 800.

Observing the havoc wreaked by industrialization (and Western materialism) in neighboring India and China, Bhutan clings tightly to its Buddhist identity, and to the values its people have treasured for centuries. Still 80 percent agricultural, neighbors help neighbors in the fields. Traveling from town to town with our driver and a guide, we were told that the oldest daughter inherits the family house and farm. “I feel sorry for the younger daughters,” I quipped, trying to be clever. “Oh no, it’s not like that,” my guide explained. “We don’t chase wealth;

we would never think that way…” In one town, installing a traffic light to replace the crossing guard caused such an uproar that the signal was removed, the guard reinstated.

Plan for low-impact hikes along a river’s edge rather than intense rock- or mountain-climbing, considered disrespectful to the mountain. Plan to experience a society based on caring for one another, one with minimal stratification, with equal access to education and health care. Plan to meet gentle people in traditional garb who will reinforce your belief in human kindness.

Getting there is tough: there’s one airline with infrequent flights. And the food is just okay. But you don’t go to Bhutan for such superficial pursuits; you go for a cultural and spiritual experience unlike any you’ve known. For more info, contact Aman (the Sanskirt word for peace) Resorts, with beautiful lodges across the country. They will customize a trip to meet your needs and fulfill your dreams.

44

Pictured on previous page: The “Bird’s Nest” is one of Bhutan’s holiest temples and a cultural icon.

“I expected to love the majestic views, the peaceful hikes, the Buddhist temples. But what I most adored was the people, their culture, the integrity of their lives.”

FAST FACTS ON BHUTAN History: Was a collection of warring fiefdoms until the early 17th century, when unifed by a leader fleeing religious persecution in Tibet. Location: Between the Tibetan Plateau and India. Size: 46,500 square kilometers.

Population: 970,000. Topography: From 23,000-foot-high peaks in the north to low-lying plains and deep valleys separated by high mountain passes. Government: In 2008, transitioned from an absolute monarchy to a constitutional monarchy; held its first election. Religion: Vajrayana Buddhism, Hinduism. The Pharrell Factor: In 2006, Business Week rated Bhutan the happiest country in Asia.

46

end page

My Father, Myself

BY LENOR ROMANO My mother gave up shopping for me by the time I was five.

She gave up shopping with me at seven. Was it because I was so skinny that I had to buy boys’ slim pants? Or that I embarrassed her, demanding the stars-and-stripes bell bottom jumpsuit that she considered blasphemous?

Shopping for me became my father’s job. Yes! Very cool!

The man had no patience, so I always got what I wanted just to get us out of the store. By age 11 I could no longer find what I dreamt of in the young junior department, so I took to designing my own clothes. Snakeskin mini skirts, faux pony midis, leopard fur vests... Fortunately I had an aunt who was a professional seamstress and could fulfill my desires.

My dad maintained his role as my personal shopper for expensive things like boots and bags. (We’re talking Granny boots that tied up to the knee, green suede boots with fourinch platforms, a red vinyl raincoat, a leather hoodie...) He had great taste, priding himself on always looking “smart.” In the ’70s, he also had a friend at Botany 500 and was a perfect 40 regular—right off the rack. There were a few years when he gained weight in an attempt to quit smoking, but that was shortlived: he was more concerned about his wardrobe than his health.

During college I had a summer job as a “swatch boy” at Cross Country Clothes. The man I worked for was more interested in skirts than suits. I fended him off politely until September, then told him off. I was just 18. I still managed to get my dad a few samples.

Sadly, I recently had the distinction of helping my mother select my father’s final outfit. The suit was easy: there were lots to choose from, though he hadn’t worn one in a long

time. The tie was next. His drawer opened with a smell of wood and what I imagined was his Noxzema shaving cream.

I knew his ties well: the Countess Mara ones he was so proud of, the rich madder silks. Then I saw his favorite, a deep barn red, but it had stains on it, rendering it unusable. (He was meticulous about his appearance; I wondered why he had kept it.) I dug deeper into his tie drawer, finding wide ties, skinny ties, knit ties... a lifetime of sartorial memories. I selected a paisley, rich in amber, ocher and plum.

During his final years, I’d made it a point to tell him how much I loved him. I gave him a card with of all his favorite expressions typed across it in different colors and fonts. He studied it for awhile, and then exclaimed “This is all true!” I gently reminded him that these were his words, the words he taught me to live by.

They’ve served me well.

“MY DAD WAS MORE CONCERNED ABOUT HIS WARDROBE THAN HIS HEALTH.”

48

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . A N D J E A N S

H U B E R T W H I T E F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 4