SPRING FASHION
TROPICAL HIDEAWAY
STYLE GUIDE: TIE ONE ON SCENE AROUND THE WORLD
PLUS: THE NEW ZEGNA CONCEPT SHOP
Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance
KILGORE TROUT BUILDS ON OUR COLLABORATION WITH THE ICONIC ITALIAN FASHION HOUSE
Our new concept shop for
Ermenegildo Zegna Welcome to the spring/summer issue of Forum, the magazine for Kilgore Trout clients and friends. This season is particularly exciting, highlighted by the debut of our completely redesigned Ermenegildo Zegna shop. Created by Ermenegildo Zegna’s inhouse architects, the new boutique is based on the global creative concept of architect Peter Marino, and will present and enhance our Zegna collections as never before. Featuring the best of traditional and contemporary design— reinforcing both the innovative spirit and the brand’s heritage— our in-store boutique leverages the combination of fine materials, natural colors and technical innovation. These signatures of both Zegna and Marino will envelop Kilgore Trout clients to provide an exquisite shopping experience. The exclusive decoration creates an ideal atmosphere in which to enjoy the privilege of the made-to-measure service, with its innumerable textiles, and showcases the Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna collections to perfection. We look forward to sharing the new Ermenegildo Zegna shop— along with all that’s new for the season—with you soon. Happy spring! Wally Naymon, shopkeeper
“ZEGNA CONTINUES TO BE THE DEFINITIVE MEN’S LUXURY CLOTHING BRAND.” WALLY NAYMON
28601 Chagrin Blvd. Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
FEATURES
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell
28 32 58 62
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
The Great Italian Getaway Best Practices: Exceptionally Eton Speed: Days of Future Fast Music: On the Upswing
MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi
FASHION 6 34 36 38 40 48
The Road to Casablanca All Tied Up Profile: Etro Profile: AG Color Check Italian Style
DEPARTMENTS 2 24 26 30 54 60 64
Welcome Letter Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her Spring 2014 Events World Scene Spirits: Made-to-Treasure End Page: Speaking of Style
PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2014. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 17, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
SPRING/SUMMER 2014
Exclusive fabric by Loro Piana, “Extreme”
(Opposite page) Her: Elizabeth and James printed silk dress Him: Isaia double-breasted jacket and cotton shirt, Mason’s cotton trouser with selvedge trim, Donald J. Pliner shoe
Our special pre-season offer:
Kilgore Trout soft constructed silk, linen and cotton blazer. Purchase the blazer for $495, and the matching trouser is our gift ($175 value). Through April 12, or while supply lasts. New England shirt and PT01 trouser also shown.
Kilgore Trout’s Must-Haves for Spring 2014
THE ROAD TO CASABLANCA Design — Chtistopher Hixson Photography — Andrew McAllister Set Styling — Inda Blatch Geib
Fuzzi dress, Pelcor cork skin clutch
Moncler jacket, Billy Reid shirt, Hudson khaki jean, Etro belt
Him: Canali “Kei” jacket, Gran Sasso 100% silk V-neck sweater, Billy Reid shirt, PT01 “Paisley” chino Her: Elizabeth and James asymmetrical dress, Pasha scarf
Herno hooded rain coat, Pashma V-neck Å VYHS JHZOTLYL Z^LH[LY +3 QLHUZ
Him: Rag & Bone denim jacket, tee and cargo pant Her: Mason’s sleeveless cargo vest, Citizens of Humanity jeans
Mason’s cargo jeans for her
Billy Reid polos in navy, white, faded black and seafoam, 7; .OVZ[ 7YVQLJ[ ZRPUU` Ä [ ¸:SLLR¹ WHU[
Tailor Vintage knit shorts
Gran Sasso vintage knit cotton jacket, Billy Reid shirts, Hudson “Blake� jeans, and Donald J. Pliner shoe
:[LMHUV 4VY[HYP Y\Ɋ L MYVU[ ZSLL]LSLZZ ISV\ZL ^P[O aPW IHJR +3 QLHU
Her: D. Exterior dress, Pashma scarf Him: Boglioli peak-lapel blazer, Sand shirt, Simonnet-Godard cotton pocket square, Incotex trouser, Donald J. Pliner shoe
:HUK Å VYHS WYPU[ QHJRL[ HUK ^OP[L SPULU ZOPY[ 0UJV[L_ ZLLYZ\JRLY WHU[ 3L`]H IS\L Z\LKL ILS[ :HUK WPUR QHJRL[ +VUHSK 1 7SPULY ZOVL
3LM[! + ,_[LYPVY KYLZZ 9PNO[! +3 L`LSL[ QLHU *HZOTLYL ZR\SS Z^LH[LY ,SPaHIL[O HUK 1HTLZ QHJRL[
Etro knit double-breasted blazer, shirt, pocket square and linen trouser
D. Exterior caftan top, Fuzzi tights 0U [Y\UR! 7HZOTH Å VYHS JHZOTLYL Z^LH[LY
Him: Alessandro Cantarelli soft jacket, Mason’s cotton shirt, Hudson “Byron” jean /LY! +3 L`LSL[ [HUR ;Y\L 9V`HS ZPSR JHWYPZ
Him: Montedoro silk seersucker jacket, Incotex trouser (available as suit or separates), New England Shirt Company shirt, Kilgore Trout cotton pocket square with houndstooth trim /LY! -\aaP KYLZZ :WLJPHS [OHURZ [V )SVJR )YVZ H[ /VTL HUK 3L]PU -\YUP[\YL MVY ZL[ WYVWZ
SPRING 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
If you own trim-fitting jeans in a medium to dark wash with no tears or abrasions, feel free to wear them out to dinner, with a sportcoat and tie if you desire, or with any kind of shirt or sweater. If you don’t own this type of denim, come into the store and try some on! Clean, dark jeans are perhaps the single most important item in today’s casual wardrobes, because they work well with virtually everything you can think of. What’s more, many of today’s new denim fabrics contain a small percentage of stretch to ensure comfort, wrinkle resistance and a perfect fit! If your jeans are baggy in a light to medium wash (with or without tears or abrasions), save them for casual wear and don’t pair them with a slim modern sportcoat. Better yet, buy some jeans that fit.
24
Q:
I own just one belt that reverses from black to brown. What more do I need? Just as there are dress jeans and casual jeans, there are also dress belts and casual belts. If the leather is smooth, shiny, burnished or exotic (alligator, snakeskin), it’s best worn with dress trousers or a suit. FYI, we love brown belts and brown shoes (leather or suede) worn with gray and navy tailored clothing! When you’re wearing casual pants (jeans, khakis, twills), the ideal belt might be a softer leather or suede. Fabric belts are also great in spring and summer (perfect for shorts!). Don’t be afraid of color or interesting buckles, both good ways to express some fashion flair.
Q:
I’m seeing some strangely short pants on young guys these days, sometimes hitting above the ankle. Is this a trend? Shorter-length pants are definitely the way to go in 2014, but showing ankle is on the extreme side. We recommend a very soft break in the leg, with the hem of the pant just grazing the top of the shoe. If this seems too trendy for you, go a bit longer, but please: no hems dragging on the floor! If your pant leg covers the entire heel of your shoe, it’s too long!
JENS INGVARSSON
Q:
I always thought that jeans are jeans, but I’m told there’s a difference between dress denim and casual denim. What’s the difference?
IT JUST FITS.
FALL 2014 FASHION TIPS FOR HER
Q:
With the warmer months come skimpier fashions. Any tips for dressing in a way that’s fashion forward but still age appropriate?
For women of a certain age, shorts are almost impossible to pull off. We don’t buy shorts, and we don’t recommend them for anyone past their 20s. As an alternative, try leggings and a tunic. If you’re a person who’s afraid of leggings, don’t be. Stick with dark colors like black, navy or charcoal (never white!) and try a jean legging if you want a bit more structure. Remember: leggings are not pants, so this look only works with a longer, looser top. Tunics are available in a variety of solids and prints this season. We’re especially loving D. Exterior, whose flowy, colorful, easy-to-wear tops were recently added to our offerings here at Kilgore Trout. Rag & Bone and Vince also make beautiful mixed-media tunics: think jersey with silk or leather. Pair with flats, or dress up the look with heels. It’s an easy, breezy combination for any summertime situation.
Q:
Denim has come a long way since my first pair of basic Levi’s. What are the new trends for the season?
There is so much to love about jeans these days, including new fabrications from silk to leather, and a range of fits from skinny to bootcut. There’s truly something fabulous out there for every shape and style. Come into the store and check
26
out what’s new from Hudson. They’ve screen-printed beautiful Parisian scenes on pant legs for spring, and they’re making great colorful jeans, too. (With this much visual interest on the bottom, stick to a plain white blouse or jersey top.) DL1961 is another one to watch. The brand offers different fits and lengths, including eyelet crops and skinnies with leather paneling. If you buy only one new pair for spring, the absolute must-have is a boyfriend jean with a bit of distressing, worn with the bottoms rolled up. They’re all over the editorial pages and they’re blowing out of the store already. Keep the look feminine with a shorter fitted top and strappy sandals.
Q:
When it comes to hemlines this season, is there one particular length that’s on-trend?
Almost anything goes for spring skirts and dresses: to the knee, just below the knee, tea length and maxis are all in fashion. If you’re overwhelmed by the options, you can’t go wrong with a fitted pencil skirt to the knee. This style flatters most figures, providing plenty of coverage while still being sexy. If you’re on the shorter side (5’2” and under), you probably shouldn’t go longer than a tea-length skirt. If you do want to try the maxi trend, make sure the style is form-fitting so you’re not overpowered by length and volume.
IMAGE COURTESY OF DL1961
ASKFORUM
A tailor-made trip for a guy who’s definitely not off the rack. 850AM/ESPN CLEVELAND HOST WINS OUR GREAT ITALIAN GETAWAY Kilgore Trout client and 850AM/ESPN Cleveland host Aaron Goldhammer won the top prize at Kilgore Trout’s Great Italian Getaway last October. Wally Naymon drew Goldhammer’s entry from several hundred at the conclusion of the event, which was co-sponsored by the Italian Trade Commission. The event also raised $2,000 to underwrite Italian film entry The Human Factor at the 38th Cleveland International Film Festival coming later this month. Goldhammer, co-host of The Really Big Show on WKNR, had a really big 2013; he married his sweetheart Allie in September. Winning a dream trip was the icing on the cake. He and Allie have already met with Peter D’Attoma of DiVinci Custom Travel & Tours and are looking forward to their personally designed summer 2014 trip. The newlywed couple plans to enjoy multiple destinations including Rome, Venice and Florence. A native of Italy, Peter D’Attoma is the leading custom travel expert specializing only in Italy, and offers clients meticulously crafted tours with exclusive access and one-of-a-kind itineraries. You can check out D’Attoma’s services at davincicustomtravel.com, and you can keep up with Aaron Goldhammer on 850AM and on Twitter. Congratulations, Aaron!
VENICE IS JUST ONE STOP ON AARON AND ALLIE’S CUSTOM TRAVEL ITINERARY.
Thanks to everyone who entered our Great Italian Getaway!
in store
SPRING 2014 EVENTS
SPEND $500: RECEIVE A $100 ZACK BRUELL RESTAURANT GIFT CERTIFICATE Your favorite offer is back! Through April 12th or while supply lasts, spend $500 or more in one Kilgore Trout visit and we’ll reward you with a $100 gift certificate to one of Zack Bruell’s restaurants, including Cowell & Hubbard, Chinato, Table 45, L’Albatros, or Parallax. (One per customer, see store for details.)
MARCH 7 AND 8 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
MAY 2 AND 3 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
Our new Ermenegildo Zegna shop opens in style with Andrea Stringhini, our made-to-measure specialist from Ermenegildo Zegna, libations, and the introduction of the latest collection of fabrics. We will also offer an extensive collection of samples for suits, jackets, shirts and knitwear, plus an enhanced selection of the Z Zegna collection. Call or email your sales consultant to set your personalized appointment.
MARCH 21 AND 22 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
SAMUELSOHN, W. KLEINBERG, NEW ENGLAND SHIRT COMPANY, DONALD J. PLINER
From a studio in Florence, Alabama, Billy Reid designs authentic American clothing. GQ and the Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded Billy the Best New Designer in America award in 2010, and in 2012 Billy went on to receive the CFDA’s Best Menswear Designer of the Year award. We think nothing pairs better with Billy Reid than the Vintage Collection from Walkover shoes: based on time-honored styles from their vast archive, updated and hand-sewn in the U.S.A., and distressed to reflect the distinctive character of the iconic original designs.
MAY 2 AND 3 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
Save 10% on your Samuelsohn made-to-measure order placed at this event. Dorian Anderson will be in store with the spring/summer 2014 swatches from Samuelsohn, plus New England Shirt Company and W. Kleinberg luxury leather accessory collection. Plus, Jimmy Richmond will be here with Donald J. Pliner footwear.
APRIL 4 AND 5 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
CANALI
Receive a $200 Kilgore Trout gift card with your order of suit or sportcoat/trouser combination, or a $125 gift card with your sportcoat order. Schedule a consultation with Canali specialist Peter Belci. (Gift card may not be used toward Canali purchase.)
BILLY REID, VINTAGE FOOTWEAR
AG JEANS / BLUE JEANS GO GREEN TRADE-IN Bring us your old jeans, and we’ll take 10% off your purchase of a new pair.
AG is hip, sophisticated, and cool denim, and it’s a company committed to making a difference, using eco-conscious fibers and ozone technology, and partnering with charities that bring clean and safe drinking water to developing nations. Join us as Kilgore Trout partners with Blue Jeans Go Green® to recycle your old denim into insulation that Habitat for Humanity installs into new homes across the U.S.
MORE EVENTS TO BE ANNOUNCED Subscribe to email updates at kilgoretrout.com, and like us at facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland.
WHEN YOU NEED US, WE’RE HERE. CONTACT US ANYTIME AT 216.831.0488, OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT DIRECTLY: Wally Joel Paula
wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com pbradley@kilgoretrout.com
Alex aizant@kilgoretrout.com Cheryl cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com Laura lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com
Andrea Sandy Lauren
anaymon@kilgoretrout.com info@kilgoretrout.com info@kilgoretrout.com
KILGORE TROUT INSIDER
PRE-SEASON OFFER
$495.00 (THROUGH APRIL 12)
PURCHASE THE JACKET, AND THE MATCHING $175 TROUSER IS OUR GIFT Tailored exclusively for us, this Kilgore Trout soft-constructed blazer is a perfect springtime blend of silk, linen and cotton. Purchase the blazer for $495, and we’ll include the matching trouser at no charge ($175 value). Through April 12, or while supply lasts. (A larger photo can be found on page 6.)
best practices
Exceptionally
ETON CRAFTING THE WORLD’S FINEST SHIRTS. By Karen Alberg Grossman
How did a little family-run shirt business in Sweden get to be the bestselling shirt company in America, possibly in the world? I recently had the opportunity to join a group of upscale menswear stores for a visit to Eton headquarters in Ganghester, Sweden and its design studio in Stockholm. Knowing Eton is one of the hottest brands in the luxury market, we were eager to experience firsthand the culture, commitment and quality-obsessed artisans at this amazing company. As with all great companies, success starts at the top. Eton CEO Hans Davidson (third generation, the company was founded by his grandparents in 1948) and senior advisor Jan Borghardt were incredibly candid about their journey. As Borghardt explains it, “The Swedish mindset discourages arrogance: you should never think you’re too great. For many years, Hans and I were making all the decisions and it was hard for us to let people contribute. But we soon realized that we might be the problem, so we gradually established a team-building culture that encour-
ages creative thinking. An intense passion now permeates the company; our people love coming to work…” Eton is a vertical business, managing every stage of the shirt-making process from cotton production to creative to sales. They use only extra-long staple cotton (Pima from California and Giza from Egypt), renowned for its lus-
Sebastian Dollinger poses with his spring inspiration board.
Why invest in a luxury shirt? It will look better, wear longer and get more compliments than any shirt you own!” Wally Naymon, Kilgore Trout shopkeeper 32
ter, durability and softness. (Only 0.7 percent of the world’s cotton is ELS.) They then partner with top mills that spin the cotton and weave the fabric. “We work with mills in Italy, Switzerland and France,” explains Eton creative director Sebastian Dollinger, a talented young artist whose inspiration wall for spring 2015 includes a Hindu magazine cover from the 1950s, a Led Zeppelin album cover, and various images of airplanes, flamingos, vintage pinball machines and Mexican skulls worked into a paisley. “We work with our weaving mills very early in the process and buy up their capacity far in advance, which is why the designs are exclusive. “ Also unique to Eton shirts: a notable crispness, thanks to a special process that allows wrinkle-resistance in the most ecologically safe way possible. “Cynics say it’s impossible to attain our level of wrinkle-free without chemicals,” Davidson explains. “But with our finisher in Switzerland, we invented a (40-step) method that actually rearranges the fibers of the cotton rather than coating the fabric with chemicals. It’s been said there are more chemicals in a cup of British tea than in an Eton shirt…”
Ca g F or Your Ertin on Shirts HOME WASHIN
G: • Unbutt on the sh irt and fo instructio llow care ns on lab el. • Do not overfill w ashing m set on lo achine; w spin. • Once w ashed, h ang shir t on hanger an d stretch collar, cu front pla ff and ckets soft ly. Do not the shirt. wring • Option al: Light iron for an finishing extra touch. PROFES SIONA
L LAUN • Ask yo DRY: ur cleaner to use lig and no st ht press arch. Pre ssing is n recomm ot ended fo r collar, cu front pla ff and ckets.
FAST FACTS ON ETON: • The collection is sold in only the finest stores in 42 countries. • An Eton shirt is ecologically correct, from growing the cotton (using crop rotation) to dyeing the yarns to packaging and shipping. • Eton uses more cotton per square millimeter than most luxury brands. • They are famous for color clarity (there are 250 different shades of red alone!) and exclusive designs (they use no fabrics available on the open market). • Eton offers a variety of different fits and stocks numerous styles in each. The fit is exceptional because all measurements are carefully graded across sizes. • Eton collars and cuffs are unique: the founders invented an exclusive method of sewing them inside out. • Buttons are made of pulverized mother of pearl that Eton re-casts for added strength, and they’re strategically placed to allow for open collar-wearing. • Each shirt requires at least 100 minutes of cutting and sewing. • Much of the machinery used in the production process was conceived by Eton, and much hand craftsmanship is involved. • Eton ties are also exceptional, made at the finest factories in England and Italy.
Cleveland baby! It’s all about Cleveland and Eton shirts…” Erik Wilkinson, Eton global sales director 33
• The male model who is currently the face of Eton has a notable scar on his cheek. “Patrick represents adventure and risk-taking,” explains global brand director Robert Inghamn. “He’s the James Bond-type of guy that women love: always stylish and cool, even when facing extreme danger…”
2.5-3.0” NARROW
2.0-2.5” SKINNY
ALLTIED UP! THE FINISHING TOUCH THAT MAKES ALL THE DIFFERENCE.
T
hose in the know view ties first and foremost as fashion accessories, divorced from the dress codes of 30 years ago. While ties paired with suits are still mandatory in some corporate office environments, many guys don’t see them that way: to younger generations, ties in narrower widths and materials like cotton or wool are fashionable accessories that go just as well with jeans and an unconstructed blazer... or no jacket at all. Take note that ties have been steadily slimming down over the last 10 years, from an average of 4 inches in 1994 to 3.25 inches today. Several widths (as illustrated above) are now acceptable, as long as they’re in proportion to your jacket lapel. With the pressure off, you’re free to add neckwear to almost any outfit, for almost any occasion. There’s no better way to show your unique personal style.
PHOTOGRAPHER: JENS INGVARSSON. STYLIST: WILLIAM BUCKLEY. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. MODEL: EMANUELE @ MAJOR MODELS
3.0-3.5” MODERN
LITTLE-KNOWN NECKWEAR FACTS 1.
Louis XIV began wearing a lace cravat at the age of seven, igniting a trend that spread across France.
2.
In the early 1700s, leather collars called “stocks” were worn around the neck to protect major blood vessels and encourage soldiers to hold their heads high during battle.
3.
Published in 1818, Neckclothitania or Tietania contains the first printed use of the word “tie” in reference to neckwear.
4.
The long, thin necktie style still used today was born during the industrial revolution, when factory workers needed simple, unfussy neckwear that wouldn’t come undone.
5.
When soldiers returned home from WWII, the Bold Look (characterized by ties that were up to 5 inches wide) showed their eagerness to break free from the conformity of military uniforms.
6.
Since September 2007, doctors in British hospitals have been banned from wearing neckties because they are laundered less frequently than other clothing items.
7.
In their book The 85 Ways to Tie a Tie, physicists Thomas Fink and Yong Mao assert that there are exactly 85 possible ways to knot a conventional necktie. Of these, Fink says, “just over a dozen are sufficiently handsome or different from each other to be worn.”
8.
International Necktie Day (or Cravat Day in Croatia) is celebrated each year on October 18th.
profile
Clockwise from top left: Kean, Jacopo, Ippolito and Veronica Etro
Evolving
TRADITIONS
AT ETRO, CREATIVE EXPERIMENTATION IS PERFECTLY BALANCED BY CENTURIES-OLD INSPIRATION.
POP
A
s a fashion and lifestyle brand, Etro wasn’t so much founded as grown organically. In 1968, Gimmo Etro began producing high-quality fabrics embellished with original designs and innovative colors. In 1981 the furnishing textiles line made its debut, featuring a paisley print that would quickly become Etro’s leitmotif. The addition of leather goods and travel bags (1984), home accessories (1986) and fragrances (late 1980s) consolidated the brand’s standing as a lifestyle powerhouse, but it wasn’t until the 1990s that the now-iconic men’s and women’s prêt-à-porter collections were introduced. From its headquarters on Milan’s Via Spartaco, Etro is now helmed by Gimmo’s children. Jacopo, the eldest, oversees the textiles, home and leather goods collections. Next is Kean, the “creative spirit” of the brand and director of men’s collections. Ippolito is CFO and COO, while baby of the family (and only daughter) Veronica designs the women’s lines. Almost as deep as Etro’s family roots are its roots in textile culture. Using only the finest fibers and finishings, the paisley motif is constantly reinterpreted in what the brand calls “a game of suggestive elegance.” For the spring/summer 2014 men’s collection, everyday pieces were designed with a twist. Inspired by the Mexican riding tradition of charreria, the highly researched and elaborately
OF
paisley
Paisley is an ancient decoration rich in history and meaning. The droplet-shaped motif can be traced back to Mesopotamia, where it symbolized the seed of the tree of life. The design migrated from east to west, and has been found on objects from Indian prints to Celtic embroideries. In Kashmir, shawls printed with this pattern were offered as gifts to the Great Mogul, then passed down through the generations. Etro’s collection of 150 of these shawls, dating from 1810 to 1880, has inspired the use of paisley as the common thread that runs through its collections. Over the years the design has been illuminated with pop hues, fossilized, pulverized, corroded, overlapped, paired with flowers and stripes, enlarged, and reduced to its original essence. This special talent with prints truly puts Etro in a class of its own.
patchworked materials highlight Etro’s unparalleled expertise in fabric combination. Intricate leather tooling, for example, recalls age-old saddlery techniques. Traditional English fabrications, from sharp pinstripes to cotton-linen twills, offer a classic balance. Silhouettes are resolutely masculine: jackets have powerful shoulders, and three-piece suits are layered over un-done striped shirts. Etro’s signature prints this season have an unstudied quality, as if drawn by hand. A horse print, on shirts and jackets, bears the unfinished semblance of a rough illustration. The paisley also receives a new treatment: as a blurry, black-and-white pattern that seems to emerge from a mirage.
36
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R
profile
Known for a super-soft hand, luxurious fabrics and vintage washes, AG’s jeans are American made and manufactured in its 400,000 sq. ft. Los Angeles factory. For spring 2014, AG is stepping up its game with cutting-edge styles for both men and women. Here, we highlight the must-have items for spring 2014.
COLORED SELVEDGE: AG is injecting its signature style into the selvedge denim craze that’s currently trending in menswear. (Selvedge refers to denim woven on a shuttle loom with a finished edge to prevent fraying.) AG uses a dyeable, comfort-stretch fabric (unique because most selvedge denim is not dyeable and raw). Key colors for spring are blues, greens, khakis, washed-out blacks and whites. As AG’s men’s sales manager Jake Campbell explains, “White denim is very cool and poised to make a comeback for spring. It looks great with sportswear and has that elegant nautical feel.” Also exciting is the brand’s “double indigo” jean; it’s twice-dyed so when you roll up the cuff, it’s blue rather than white. LUXE CHINOS: Non-denim pants are the hot item for spring. AG’s super-luxe colored chinos are made of Italian fabrics in sueded cottons, giving these pants the most luxurious look and feel. This modern, tailored-fit chino is offered in both five-pocket and trouser styles. These versatile pants can be dressed up with a blazer, or worn like jeans on the weekend. This season’s casual palette will feature colors like soft grays and khakis.
MEN’S MUST-HAVES Every man’s closet should have a mix of denim and non-denim bottoms. Color is king, but not as bright as past seasons. Think earth tones: grays, beiges and greens.
WHAT YOU NEED NOW.
a soft
Mix
WOMEN’S MUST-HAVES The theme for spring is sophisticated-chic in a neutral monochromatic color palette (creams, beiges, whites). MOTO-INSPIRED: Moto styles were a huge trend for fall/holiday, and will only gain popularity for spring. AG is updating the trend with The Reagan, a moto-inspired style with chic seaming and zipper details. Pick up a pair in one of this season’s must-have muted tones like beige, nude and white. TWILL TROUSERS: Relaxed silhouettes are gaining traction in women’s fashion, and a more sophisticated style is the twill trouser. AG’s trouser fit is available in essential twill and has a slim, tapered leg. This twill style looks great in the season’s muted monochromatic colors as well as gray and faded black. —Elise Diamantini
NO ONE DOES CASUAL LUXE QUITE LIKE AG.
38
EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.
COLOR CHECK
SPRING 2014 BRINGS A FRESH TAKE ON PRINT AND COLOR. DISCOVER THE LUSH HUES OF THE TROPICS, SET ON STUNNING VERANDAS UNDER A CANOPY OF PALMS AT THE MOORINGS RESORT & SPA IN ISLAMORADA, FLORIDA.
PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR/MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING: WENDY MCNETT / WIILLIAM BUCKLEY
BRING ON THE
BLUES
BE PLAYFUL WITH PLAIDS, SETTING EXOTIC BRIGHTS AGAINST BOLD NEUTRALS.
IT’S A SHORTS
STORY
Style
A CRASH COURSE IN EASY ELEGANCE, FROM THE WORLD’S MOST WELL-DRESSED MEN.
PHOTOGRAPHER: JENS INGVARSSON. STYLIST: WILLIAM BUCKLEY. TAILOR: JASON SANTIAGO. MODELS: EFREN @ MSA, JHANELLE @ MAJOR, EMANUELE @ MAJOR.
ITALIAN
Brown Shoes PAIR PERFECTLY WITH GRAY OR NAVY SUITS IN A MODERN SLIM FIT.
Spring Layering GETS YOU THROUGH THE SEASON IN STYLE, WHILE WHITE TROUSERS BALANCE COLOR ON TOP.
Tailored Outerwear DOUBLES AS A BLAZER WHEN WORN WITH A DRESS SHIRT AND TIE.
PLAY WITH
Prints & Patterns IN BOLD COLOR (AND SKIP THE SOCKS).
Lightweight Knits LEND AN EFFORTLESS COOL TO SLIM COLORED CHINOS.
world scene
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries. TOUJOURS PROVENCE
BRUNO PRECHEMINSKY
Quietly sequestered among the vineyards, olive groves and lavender fields in the South of France is the sleek, modern, nearly 750-acre Terre Blanche Hotel Spa Golf Resort. Here, golfers are welcomed with two championship 18hole courses and the Leadbetter Golf Academy, featuring the world’s top instructors. Spend the morning improving your swing, then pass a lazy afternoon at the infinity pool (with a breathtaking view of the Southern Alps), or get pampered in the elaborate and opulent spa. Since you’re in France, you should do a lot of eating and drinking. Terre Blanche makes it easy with four restaurants that serve fresh local dishes and superb wines (the rosés are especially excellent). Finally, retire to one of the elaborately homey villas scattered among the pine trees, where you’ll find seclusion and every contemporary comfort. It’s like having your own private Provence.
A COUNTRY PORT
IMAGE BY BEALL + THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY
BLACKBERRY FARM, a stylishly pastoral resort at the
foothills of the Smoky Mountains in eastern Tennessee, has been a favorite American destination for generations. Along with the comfortable cottages, award-winning food, and vast number of activities offered at Blackberry Farm, food, beverage and wine director Andy Chabot has assembled a commanding collection of 8,500 wines. The rare vintages include 25 madeiras and 20 ports. Chabot introduces guests to these notable after-dinner wines with flights: side-by-side tastings of three, such as the 1834, 1863 and 1875 madeiras, or ruby, tawny and white ports. For the true port connoisseur Chabot suggests VV from Niepoort (released only twice in the history of the company, just 999 bottles of this tawny port were produced), which he describes as “an elegant way to ease out of the evening.”
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world scene ON THE WATERFRONT
This summer, experience the great outdoors at Miami’s Viceroy Hotel. For evenings there’s Fifty, a new rooftop indoor/outdoor lounge perched atop the 50th floor. Recline on chaise lounges or hang out at the bar and private pool and stare at the stars (or the city lights). During the day, head for the 15th floor and make a splash in the 300-foot infinity pool (Florida’s longest), an 80-person hot tub (the world’s largest) and a wading pool, which together add up to a water complex the size of a football field.
PICTURING THE WILD WEST
For more than a century, cowboys and cowgirls have gathered at the Cheyenne Frontier Days to compete at the rodeo, dance the two-step and recreate the Old West. There’s also an art show. This summer more than 60 of the country’s contemporary artists celebrate America’s frontier past—its culture, its magnificent scenery and the western way of life—in paintings, sculptures, wood and alabaster carvings, and Navajo weavings. The Cheyenne Frontier Days Western Art Show begins with a preview, followed by a reception at the Wyoming Governor’s Mansion. A western dinner and cocktails are served throughout the evening while the sale takes place, and guests dance the night away to the sounds of a live band.
M
EASY RIDER
ission Motorcycles has recently introduced the Mission RS, an innovative and high-performing electric motorcycle. Merging stunning looks with state-of-the-art technology, the Mission RS has a 120 kW (160 hp) electric motor integrated with Mission’s InfiniteDrive, which offers control and performance levels never before seen in any electric vehicle. The result: a pure motorcycle experience. Marchesini competition-legal and race-spec forged magnesium wheels are included in the optional GP Package, making the Mission RS ready to compete on the world stage. Production of the Mission RS is limited to 40 editions; naturally, each bike purchased is hand-delivered within North America.
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SPRING 2014
Made with pride in Canada.
speed
DAYS OF
FUTURE FAST THE NEXT GENERATION OF HIGH-TECH TRANSPORTATION IS ALMOST HERE. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
HERE WE ARE IN 2014; where are the flying cars and jet packs? Not everyone’s given up on the dream: From highspeed rail and solar-powered cars to wacky personal transport and luxury airships, innovators and idealists continue moving the world forward, one hovercraft at a time. Some of our biggest dreamers continue to look towards the sky. Last year, Terrafugia, a Massachusetts-based aerospace company, announced it was officially in the flying car business. The Transition is a compact, street-legal vehicle which can fly in and out of airports using retractable wings, looks and drives like a car on the road, and costs around $280,000. Now the company hopes to produce the TF-X, a four-seat hybrid electric vehicle capable of making vertical take-offs and landings. Despite the reality of private jets and luxury airliners, some innovators still envision demand for a classic airship. The “Aether Cruise Experience” is a design project created by University of Huddersfield student Mac Byers. His concept is inspired by classic zeppelins and incorpo-
rates vertical lift technology from AerosCraft (a company producing high-tech dirigibles for cargo transport and hoping to be online commerically by 2016). Byers envisions his heliumsupported floating cruise ship as an open design, allowing passengers to explore spacious catwalks, viewing areas, bars and large private sleeping quarters. The frontiers of private commercial space flight, meanwhile, continue to be dominated by two pioneers: SpaceX and Virgin Galactic. Despite promises of speedy delivery of civilian passengers into low-earth orbit and higher (SpaceX is convinced they’ll be able to do private fly-bys of the Moon and land their proposed Dragon spacecraft on Mars in this century), the industry seems rife with delays. Virgin Galactic’s space program hasn’t yet taken off (pun intended), and SpaceX appears (from the outside) to be focused on commercial space over passengers (though it is currently competing for a contract to shuttle astronauts to the International Space Station). Sierra Nevada, another contender, con-
IMAGES COURTESY OF HAMMACHER SCHLEMMER, SPACEX
SpaceX's Dragon, a proposed Mars lander
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ducted a test flight in October of its Dream Catcher space plane in which landing gear malfunctioned, causing minor damage. eanwhile on the ground, progress seems to be racing along. Japan, long known for its high-speed, magnetic-levitation bullet trains, is now marketing the technology to other countries. Northeast Maglev, a Washington D.C. company, is hoping to build a superconducting maglev train to the Northeast Corridor, potentially chopping the three-hour trip between D.C. and New York to one. And Elon Musk, co-founder of SpaceX and the brains behind the electric Tesla S sports car, floated a concept last year for a pressurized tube rail called Hyperloop, which theoretically would make the trip from LA to San Francisco in 35 minutes. Musk seems to vasillate between claiming to be too busy to make this more than a pipe dream, and promising a working prototype by 2015 through the new spinoff company Hyperloop Transportations Technologies. Either way, the idea has caused buzz on the internet and piqued the interests of investors. Electric cars are becoming a daily reality, but unplugging them completely from existing fossil fuel sources remains a hurdle. The World Solar Challenge is a semi-annual 1,865-mile, four-day race across the Australian desert which attempts to draw new ideas out of universities and think tanks around the world. Sunswift, a team out of New South Wales, introduced Eve, a four-passenger, twodoor car which averaged speeds of 50 MPH through the race, and topped out at 80. “The greatest challenges were the design trade-offs between aerodynamic efficiency, solar array output and driver/passenger comfort,” says Alexander To, director of Sunswift’s business team. Though the car finished the race 90 minutes ahead of its competition, passenger weight handicaps and judging on practicality left Eve third in its category. The race exemplifies some of the challenges of bringing a solarcharged, off-the-grid car to market. “We calculated that if we applied the parameters of our competition to a Nissan Leaf [a small electric car priced—and taxed—at the luxury level in Australia], it would do the event in
M
28 days rather than four days,” says Chris Selwood of World Solar Challenge. “It highlights the cap between cutting-edge efficiency and commercial limitations.” What if you’re burning to buy a piece of the future today? Hammacher Schlemmer has been providing such opportunities for years, with electric bikes and hovercrafts filling the pages of their catalog (and their newly remodeled Manhattan flagship store) alongside high-tech razors and poolside fireplaces. Most recently, the company introduced two tantalizing personal submarines: one that looks like a Killer Whale ($90,000) and a two-person submersible for studying the ocean floor ($2 million, training and certification required). “We’re always looking for unusual modes of transport,” says Stephen Farrell, director of merchandising. “In the flying world, there is a loosening of ultralight aircraft regulations, making it easier for people to fly personal aircraft.” Perhaps he has the skinny on when we’re getting those jetpacks we’ve been so long promised. “We’re getting pretty close,” says Farrell. “It’s basically in the hands of military contractors. When they’re legal, safe and available, Hammacher Schlemmer will sell them!”
INNOVATORS AND IDEALISTS KEEP MOVING THE WORLD OF TRANSPORTATION FORWARD.
Hammacher Schlemmer’s Killer Whale Submersible
Dirigible prototype from AerosCraft
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RESORTS AND RESTAURANTS OFFER GUESTS ONE-OF-A-KIND DRINKING EXPERIENCES. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
THE LATEST TREND: CUSTOM BARREL SELECTIONS AND BLENDS EXCLUSIVE TO SPECIFIC RESTAURANTS, BARS AND RESORTS.
IT'S NO LONGER ENOUGH to order a standard blended whisky, or even an 18-year expression of your go-to Scotch before dinner. The latest trend: custom barrel selections and blends exclusive to specific restaurants, bars and resorts. Such custom and one-off bottlings have been around for years through high-end liquor stores and private tasting societies. But as the cocktail and fine drinking scenes evolve, more bars and restaurants are clamoring for a customized spirit. Woodford Reserve Bourbon offers two programs for restaurateurs and beverage managers: A single-barrel selection, and an unusual two-barrel blend, which sees the venue working directly with master distiller Chris Morris to create an exclusive whiskey, the selections winnowed down from over 100 possible barrels. "As far as I know, we have the only program like this," says Morris. Destinations like The Cloister at Sea Island (Georgia), The Edison in Los Angeles and the St. Regis in Atlanta have taken advantage. "It's so fun to watch the dynamics of each account: Some want a sweeter blend, some spicier. It's always unique; you can't replicate a two-barrel batch." Michael MacDonnell, beverage director at the Monte Carlo in Las Vegas, concurs: "Uniqueness is one of the top selling points. Nowhere
60
else in the world has it, and when it's gone, it's gone forever." The resort offers an exclusive Knob Creek single-barrel reserve Bourbon and is now offering the first-ever Russell's Reserve select single barrel from Wild Turkey Distiller Jimmy Russell. Often the restaurant will craft a signature or private selection cocktail. Chef Marc Murphy's bar/restaurant Kingside, in Manhattan's luxe new Viceroy Hotel, features a custom Michter's Whiskey (aged in a custom deep-char barrel) in its own barrel-aged Manhattan. At Emeril Lagasse's Las Vegas venues, he drops a custom Buffalo Trace Eagle Rare single-barrel reserve into three seasonal cocktails: The NOLA Mule, the Bourbon Milk Punch and the Autumn Pomme. Bam! Such exclusivity isn't reserved for whiskeys: Herradura tequila offers a Buy the Barrel program to restaurants around the country, including several Richard Sandoval properties in New York; at contemporary Japanese eatery Shibuya in Las Vegas, you'll find exclusive sakes dubbed Neo-Tokyo and Hachiko; and at Four Seasons Milan, you can order a custom Italian (sweet) vermouth. "It's wonderful to see people come back and select new barrels for seasonality or specific food pairings," says Morris. "Restaurants and resorts are finding they're selling out so fast that they're saying, 'we've already got to do this again.'"
IMAGE BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON
spirits
Made-to-Treasure
etonshirts.com – facebook.com/etonofsweden
music
On the UPSWING
All across America, the popularity of jazz is hitting a high note. By Donald Charles Richardson
Around 11:30 at night, several stories up in a high-rise building adjacent to Central Park, a crowd gathers for one of the most exciting experiences available to people who live in or visit New York City. Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola (named for jazz legend Dizzy Gillespie) is part of the Jazz at Lincoln Center program. According to general manager Roland Chassagne, “Dizzy’s has been open for close to 10 years and reached a level of being one of the top jazz clubs in the world. We provide the trifecta as we say: great music, great food and great views.” Regular evening performances feature famous jazz artists, and Late Night Sessions present new and innovative performers, attracting aficionados
who knowledgeably toss around the names of both famous and littleknown musicians, couples on romantic dates, and some who simply like the music. Michael Mwenso, curator and programming associate at Dizzy’s, hosts Late Night Sessions on Thursdays and Saturdays. “We showcase young bands, young musicians… we give them a chance.” At the other end of the country, in San Francisco, is SFJAZZ. Randall Kline, its founder and executive/artistic director, has booked the finest jazz musicians in the world for nearly 30 years and built this organization into a year-round institution that gives more than 200 concerts annually and treats jazz as a major art form. The recently opened free-
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BRAD FEINKNOPF
Dizzy’s Club Coca-Cola, Jazz at Lincoln Center
standing concert hall, the first of its type in the U.S., is located in the heart of San Francisco’s cultural and creative district. “A standalone [facility] affords jazz a profile it hasn’t had before,” explains Kline. “You have live music right at street level. People walking by are a part of it.” In these two major institutions as well as at small clubs and large theaters, festivals and concerts all over the world, the renewed popularity of jazz is hitting a high note. Jason Olaine, director of programming for Jazz at Lincoln Center, says, “More people are consuming jazz today than ever before. Jazz is on the upswing. Some people get it… Others just appreciate it from the standpoint of pure musicianship.” One of the best musicians in the business is Joshua Redman, whose primary instrument is the tenor saxophone. (Walking Shadows, his latest album, has received superb reviews.) “I want people to come to jazz with open minds and open hearts,” says Redman. “It’s very intense and complex music. It’s not the easiest music to penetrate immediately. But jazz musicians are looking to express themselves and play music with spirit and soul. Come [to a jazz club] without expectations. Truly listen and it can be a very intense and rewarding experience.” Along with this juxtaposition of discovery, appreciation and enjoyment, it’s the spontaneity of jazz that can generate a uniquely exciting experience for the audience. “They’re creating right in front of [the audience],” says Seth Abramson, artistic director of the popular Jazz Standard in New York City. “At their best it’s as if they don’t even know the audience is there.” Laurent Saulnier is vice president of production and programmation at Festival International de Jazz de Montréal, the biggest jazz festival in the world. He reveals that during the festival, jam sessions take place every night from 11 to 3. “Famous musicians will jump in and just play. And you never know what will happen during those sessions.” Mwenso echoes the sentiment: “You never know how the night might go [at Dizzy’s Late Night Sessions], but sometimes there’s pure magic.” These moments, when the jazz group is, as Abramson terms it, “swinging,” are remarkable. And Kline points out that “it’s live. It’s not going to be the same every evening.” “Being in the zone, feeling the spirit, feeling connected,” is how Redman describes the experience. “We don’t often speak about it because we don’t want to lose the mystery of it. It happens when our training and study and hard work and time and discipline and practice all take a backseat… in the moment of inspiration, something magical happens.” Olaine recalls an unforgettable moment when Grammy Award-winning Cuban pianist Gonzalo Rubalcaba played for the first time with drummer Tony Williams (a longtime drummer for Miles Davis). They had just met and started to play Herbie Hancock’s Maiden Voyage. “They played [the first section] with such delicate care and tender finesse…” Olaine remembers. “They extended that out for such a period of time, the hairs on your arm were just standing straight up. When they moved to the next section, the crescendo was so gradual you could have heard a pin drop.” “Moments when all the musicians are in sync are rare… musician’s nirvana,” says Saulnier. The most difficult is getting the entire audience to have that moment at the same time. He remembers a couple of years ago when Leonard Cohen performed at the festival. When he started the song Suzanne, “there wasn’t a single breath in the room. We cannot program that special moment,” Saulnier adds, “but individuals will have their own moments at different times.” “Just listen,” says Redman. “It’s not science. There are complexities in jazz that rival the most complex science, but it’s about listening. It’s yours when you listen.”
Joshua Redman
“YOU HAVE LIVE MUSIC RIGHT AT STREET LEVEL. PEOPLE WALKING BY ARE A PART OF IT.” — Randall Kline, founder of SFJAZZ
Brazilian vocalist Leny Andrade
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“
ON MATTERS OF STYLE, SWIM WITH THE CURRENT. ON MATTERS OF PRINCIPLE, STAND LIKE A ROCK.” — THOMAS JEFFERSON
WHETHER YOU’RE BREAKING DOWN BARRIERS IN PURSUIT OF YOUR DREAM JOB OR ENJOYING A NIGHT OUT WITH YOUR CLOSEST FRIENDS, BEING SURROUNDED BY THE RIGHT LIFE-GIVING CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES CAN EQUIP YOU WITH THAT JUJU TO MAKE EVERYTHING GO YOUR WAY.” — CONNIE WANG & MARISSA ROSENBLUM
“
FOR IT. — Edith Head
of
Style
OPEN ALL
DOORS. — Thomas Fuller ’’ “Good design, much like good ballet, must look completely effortless. No one wants to see how hard you’re working.”
“
INNOVATION! ONE CANNOT BE FOREVER INNOVATING. I WANT TO CREATE CLASSICS.” — COCO CHANEL
WHATEVER YOU WANT
DRESS
Speaking
“GOOD CLOTHES
— JAMIE WOLF
YOU CAN HAVE IF YOU
“NINETY PERCENT OF WHAT YOU SEE WHEN YOU LOOK AT A PERSON IS HIS CLOTHING. SO OF COURSE IT MATTERS!” — TOM KALENDERIAN
’’
“STYLE IS A LUXURY, AND LUXURY IS SIMPLY WHAT MAKES YOU HAPPY.” — Deborah Needleman
“One should either be a work of art, or wear a work of art.” — Oscar Wilde 64
“Only that day dawns to which we are awake.” H EN RY DAVI D TH OREAU
Awaken your senses at Walden, a 1000-acre sanctuary in the heart of Ohio’s great Western Reserve. Experience championship golfing at Club Walden. Enjoy AAA Five-Diamond® hospitality at the highly acclaimed Inn Walden. Retreat to the tranquility of Spa Walden, and if you are too enchanted to leave, Live Walden in a custom dream home. To set a new course, visit www.yourwalden.com or call 888 808 5003.
walden
KILGORE TROUT FORUM SPRING 2014