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Larrimor’s Forum/The Substance of Style/FW 2016/17

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Connecting Refugees With New Lives, New Jobs, New Hope JEWISH FAMILY & CHILDREN’S SERVICE OF PITTSBURGH HAS BEEN HELPING REFUGEES SINCE 1937. BY JOANNE HARROP

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CARRICK RESIDENT RUP POKHAREL and his family came to the United States for the first time in July of 2009, he says, “Everything was blank.” They knew no one and they had no jobs.

A native of Tsirang, Bhutan, Pokharel was fleeing the ethnic cleansing policies of the Royal Government of Bhutan, which was targeting people of Nepalese ethnicity in 1992.

He landed in a refugee camp in Nepal. Eighteen years of suffering in the refugee camp felt like a lifetime, but it also made him resilient. In 2007, he saw his first glimmer of

PHOTO: JEWISH FAMILY & CHILDREN'S SERVICE

PHOTO: ADAM FLANAGAN

HEN

hope when the United States began accepting Bhutanese refugees. That’s when he and his wife, parents and daughter left the refugee camp in Nepal after nearly 20 years and settled in Sacramento, California with the help of International Rescue Committee (IRC) in July 2009.

Today, after relocating to Pittsburgh, Rup Pokharel now assists other refugees as a service coordinator for Jewish Family & Children’s Service of Pittsburgh. “Refugees have experienced human suffering in great volume,” he says. His own experience as a refugee makes him uniquely qualified to help others who are arriving in the United States to escape persecution, some with little more than the clothes on their backs and often after spending years in limbo in a refugee camp. Refugees are usually persecuted by ruling

Above: Leslie Aizenman, director of Refugee and Immigrant Services at JF&CS. Left: Volunteer employment specialist Jeff Herzog (right) works with clients at JF&CS to help them find and retain employment.

regimes due to their religion, language or ethnicity and experience “non-ending miseries,” explains Pokharel. “I am so glad to be a staff member at this esteemed agency dedicated to serving the refugee population.”

Since 1937, Jewish Family & Children’s Service of Pittsburgh, located in Squirrel Hill, has helped thousands of individuals and families fleeing their homes due to fear of persecution. They have resettled refugees from all parts of the world, starting with Jews from Eastern Europe who survived the Holocaust, then Russian

The U.S. has historically accepted more refugees for resettlement than any other country in the world. refugees from the former Soviet Union. Most recently, they have resettled refugees from Burma, Bhutan, Iraq, Syria and the Congo. Many enter the U.S. Continued next page

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PHOTO: ADAM FLANAGAN

JF&CS Refugee and Immigrant Services staff.

with little or no education and are unable to speak English.

Some have spent their entire lives in refugee camps. JF&CS helps these refugees establish new lives in the Pittsburgh community. Services are provided without regard to race, sex, color, national origin, ancestry, religious creed, disability or age. From the first moment of arrival, the JF&CS staff works to meet basic needs, including shelter, food, clothing and follow-up services over the subsequent six months. Needs typically decrease as refugees become more self-sufficient. For those who need extended help, Immigrant Services and Connections (ISAC) has new programs to continue offering services.

“When refugees arrive in Pittsburgh, we pick them up from the airport and bring them to a furnished apartment that we’ve secured prior to their arrival,” says Leslie Aizenman, director of Refugee and Immigrant Services for JF&CS. “From there, we address their immediate needs and work to find employment as soon as possible,” she continues. The organization also helps with apartment rental, furniture, food, clothing, referrals for food stamps, Medicaid and Social Security. It also arranges medical screenings and appointments for every family member, referral to English as a Second Language programs and assistance with employment and green card applications.

“It is really challenging,” says Aizenman, who is a former co-chair of the Immigrants & Internationals Advisory Council, an initiative of the Allegheny County Department of Human Services. “But it's what you make of it. Refugees are hard-working people who are appreciative of the opportunity to come to this country. We feel like we are saving lives.” She adds that many have lost everything and

they only want to be in a safe place and see the light at the end of the tunnel.

Jewish Family & Children’s Service even has a connection to Larrimor’s. “They connected us to Niang, one of our tailors,” explains Larrimor’s co-owner Tom Michael. “She is such a dedicated and loyal employee. We are happy to have her as part of our team. Immigrants are important in our community and part of what makes our country great."

Refugees are hard-working people who are appreciative of the opportunity to come to this country.

Of the more than 60 million displaced people around the world, 19.5 million are considered refugees. The U.S. has historically accepted more refugees for resettlement than any other country in the world. Once offered entry into the United States, the U.S. Deptartment of Homeland Security screens for security risks and the Center for Disease Control conducts health examinations. To accommodate refugees entering the U.S., nine national voluntary agencies, such as Jewish Family & Children’s Service, most of them faith-based, have state department contracts to arrange for refugee resettlement and placement through their local affiliates across the U.S. Rup Pokharel sees the impact of resettlement daily.

“Thousands of refugees from Bhutan alone have benefited through this program,” he says. “I am happy to help them as a way to give back, because someone helped me.”

© 2016 Crane & Co.™

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S C R I B E P G H . C O M

Inside

Pittsburgh’s Clubhouse There’s more to the Duquesne Club than its treasured past.

Towering over Sixth Avenue with its breathtaking architecture and historic charm, the Duquesne Club is known among Pittsburghers for its impressive legacy and pulse on luxurious lifestyles.

But there’s more to this private city club than simply a great martini and perfectly seared steak.

After nearly 150 years of wining, dining and social fun for local leaders, this downtown gem has a few interesting factoids that even the proudest Pittsburgher may not know.

IT BOASTS AN AWARD-WINNING CHEF. There’s good reason the Duquesne Club is known for some of the best fine dining in Pittsburgh, and it’s Executive Chef Keith Coughenour. He’s won countless culinary awards and has even cooked for presidents George W. Bush and Bill Clinton, Gene Simmons, Johnny Carson and many other senators, governors, TV personalities, actors and musicians. His experience includes sous chef at The Greenbrier Resort, White Sulphur Springs, W.Va., and an externship at Actuelle, Dallas.

IT HAS ITS OWN BEEHIVE AND GARDEN. Located atop the Duquesne Club’s sixth floor rooftop, the Club is home to Hive 325, a collection of four apiaries inhabited by nearly 70,000 bees. The honey offers a sweet floral flavor from the bee-friendly wild flowers of the region, blending harmoniously with the frequently changing menu of Executive Chef Keith Coughenour and assistant Pastry Chef Sara Tessmer. The chefs also make use of the Club’s rooftop vegetable and herb garden.

IT’S A POPULAR PLACE TO SAY “I DO.” Weddings are a fairy tale moment at the Duquesne Club, with a wonderful menu selection and 42 beautifully appointed hotel rooms and suites. From a cocktail hour on the breathtaking rooftop Terrace, to a reception in the elegant Main Dining Room, it’s no wonder guests rave about Duquesne Club weddings well beyond the nuptials.

IT HAS ITS OWN BATCH OF WHISKEY. Created by local distillers Wigle Whiskey and the Duquesne Club’s culinary team, Beekeepers Reserve is an authentic taste of regional grains, honey and terroir.

The reserve is a custom blend of aged Wigle organic wheat whiskey and aged Landlocked honey spirit—made with honey harvested from Hive 325— inspired by the plentiful resources of Western Pennsylvania.

IT CATERS TO BEER DRINKERS, TOO. The Duquesne Club might be known for its superbly stocked fine liquors, but its members appreciate the notes in an artfully crafted beer as well.

Members of the Club’s Beer Society toast to informal beer and buffet nights, dinners with preselected pairings, beer swaps, local off-site craft brewery tours, regional travel, tastings with educational speakers and home brewing classes.

IT HAS ONE OF AMERICA’S FINEST WINE CELLARS. One of the most unique dining experiences at the Duquesne Club is also one of the most satisfying for wine lovers. La Cave, the Club’s wine cellar and adjacent tasting room, affords an amazing opportunity to experience a legendary wine list. With more than 300 members, the Club’s Wine Society boasts the largest enrollment of any private club wine society in America.

IT’S ALWAYS INTERESTING. What do Andrew Carnegie, Buffalo Bill Cody and Ulysses S. Grant have in common? You guessed it; they have each hoisted a glass (or two) at the Duquesne Club. For generations, the Club has served as the premier place for great minds to convene in Pittsburgh, including princes, politicians, explorers, generals, academics, laureates, philanthropists, physicians, lawyers and captains of industry.

For each legendary Duquesne Club tale, there are plenty of hidden facts about the Club. Use these tidbits to wow your friends at dinner parties—or tag along with a member and get to know the alwaysinteresting Duquesne Club for yourself.

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Women of Vision

PITTSBURGH IS THE FINAL STOP IN THE ACCLAIMED EXHIBITION’S THREE-YEAR TOUR. BY KELSEY SHEA

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YOUNG SAMI GIRL STARES straight into the camera. A green landscape thrives on top of a city building.

A lioness holds its kill in her teeth.

The subjects, methodology and aesthetics of these photos vary, but the photographers who captured them have one thing in common—they’re women.

Women of Vision, an exhibition coming to Carnegie Museum of Natural History this fall, celebrates the work of 11 award-winning female photographers whose inspiring and influential photographs have graced the pages of National Geographic and brought far-flung corners of the world to its readers.

The exhibition features nearly 100 different photos that have been enlarged and displayed alongside video testimony from the photographers about their experiences in the field and the philosophy behind their craft. It opens September 23, 2016 and will run through January 9, 2017.

“This is a powerful, moving exhibition that will bring stories from around the world into the halls of our museum,”

says Eric Dorfman, director of Carnegie Museum of Natural History. “We’re excited to not just display the work of these 11 photographers, but celebrate their spirit and ambition.”

The exhibition first opened in 2013 in Washington D.C., when National Geographic was celebrating its 125th anniversary. Sponsored by The PNC Financial Services

“Women of Vision is an incredibly inspiring exhibition that captures a wide range of emotions, experiences and cultures.” —Scott Cunningham, PNC Wealth Management Group, Inc., it is the first National Geographic exhibition to focus solely on photography and the voice of women.

Pittsburgh is the final stop in the acclaimed exhibition’s three-year tour. To celebrate the tour’s success, the museum, along with PNC and National Continued next page

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PHOTO: LYNSEY ADDARIO/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

PHOTO: MAGGIE STEBER/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

PHOTO:BEVERLY JOUBERT/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

Geographic, will host a panel discussion on September 22 that features the photographers whose work will be on display.

These works tell drastically different stories while using a unifying medium.

Stephanie Sinclair’s earthy, moody work captures the heartbreaking reality of child brides’ lives in Yemen, while Erika Larsen’s bright, ethereal photographs tell the story of the Sami, an indigenous people in Northern Europe. Beverly Joubert’s work inspires conservation efforts through her stunning, up-close wildlife photography, while Kitra Cahana explores something even wilder: the minds of American teens.

From stunning landscapes to moving portraits, Women of Vision pulls museum visitors into a vaster world through imaginative and bold mastery of photojournalism.

“For the last decade, some of our most powerful stories have been produced by a new generation of photojournalists who are women. These women are as different as the places and the subjects they have covered, but they all share the same passion and commitment to storytelling that has come to define National Geographic” says Kathryn Keane, vice president of National Geographic Exhibitions.

Chris Johns, former editor in chief of National Geographic, notes in his introduction to the exhibition’s accompanying book, Women of Vision: National Geographic Photographers on Assignment, that past generations of women did not have an easy time breaking into the field of photography.

Rather, women were often patronized or told to “behave like a lady.” According to Johns, however, the women whose bylines and photo credits now pepper the magazine make the publication stronger.

“There is a distinct point of view, and how that image is framed—the subject, the aesthetic—is affected by the photographer’s experience, culture, and yes, gender,” he writes.

“But not just gender. In short, it’s about diversity. We gather and present readers with many different voices, and the

magazine is infinitely better and more complete for it.”

While critics have called the exhibition “gripping” and “compelling,” Women of Vision may best be described as a tribute to the spirit and ambition of 11 photojournalists whose insight, creativity and talent have exposed millions of people to subjects and experiences that they otherwise may have never known.

“Women of Vision is an incredibly inspiring exhibition that captures a wide range of emotions, experiences and cultures,” says Scott Cunningham, regional managing director of PNC Wealth Management. “It celebrates the courage, talent and commitment of these 11 photojournalists, who recognize and demonstrate the importance and power of art to educate, create awareness and drive change.”

FALL 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HER Dress codes for large corporations, law firms and banks are going more casual. I’m an accomplished professional, but I’m not sure where to start when it comes to adjusting my wardrobe.

Business casual, smart casual, upper casual, casual chic—when did dressing for the workday become so confusing and murky? As Millennials begin to outnumber Boomers in the workforce, the choice to dress casually has become the norm. The trick is to instill confidence in co-workers and clients without looking too fancy; being relatable is key.

The good news: reworking your existing wardrobe to fit these new parameters is easier than you might think.

One of the easiest ways to make this transition is to let us show you how to separate pieces that you’ve always worn together, as well as mix different designer lines for a more relaxed look.

You can still use your suiting pieces by breaking them up into separates. Put a white tee on under your jacket and add a colored trouser, then throw on a long tasseled necklace instead of your go-to pearls. Just purchasing a few new pieces will allow you to remix your clothing in a completely different way.

Recently arrived in store and perfect for this new workplace reality: novelty jackets from Lamarque and Santorelli, as well as knit dressing from D. Exterior and Magaschoni. Their feminine silhouettes are more stylish than your basic blazer, so they can be worn just as easily with denim once the weekend rolls around. Fashion outerwear pieces will

also be important as the temperatures start to dip. Sosken has lightweight, architectural toppers and dusters, while Save the Duck offers a goose downalternative in fashion silhouettes. We’re also introducing new styles from Gimo’s and Barbour. Underneath, try a cashmere knit jacket from Peserico and a beautiful blouse from Etro, Becken or L’Agence.

While at first it can be intimidating, this change in dress code is actually a good thing. You no longer need separate wardrobes for work and weekend, and you can get more versatility from the pieces you purchase. It just makes sense for the way people live today.

At Larrimor’s, we have decades of experience dressing women for their diverse lifestyles, so stop in or make an appointment and share with us how your wardrobe needs have changed.

Which jewelry styles will keep me up to date this season?

It’s all about layering, from stacking bracelets in groups of three or five (odd numbers look good), to wearing three necklaces of varying lengths and textures. One no-fail method is to keep the longest layer the simplest, with a medallion or charm hanging from the middle layer and something a bit weightier on top.

At Larrimor’s, you’ll find delicate gold Fine Jewelry from Lana, Dana Kellin and Melissa Joy Manning that’s perfect for achieving this look. Try Alexis Bittar for a chunkier style, and Nest or Margo

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Morrison for natural materials like stones, horn and mother of pearl.

You can mix Fine with Semi-precious or Costume jewelry; it’s all about playing with proportions, metal tones and textures until you find the layered look that speaks to you!

How can I accessorize my outfit without appearing overdone?

Not looking too studied is an art in itself, but luckily it’s an art you can learn. You’re right to be wary of overaccessorizing, so if you’re one of those people who doesn’t know where to stop, take one item off before you leave the house. In terms of jewelry, either your necklace or your earrings should stand out while the other remains simple.

When you do a bold jewelry look, choose a simpler handbag or scarf, and vice versa. Items within your outfit should not compete for attention.

When shopping for accessories, ask yourself if you can use the piece for work and on the weekends, and make sure it works with at least a few outfits already in your closet.

Adding the finishing touches to your look should make you feel happy, so buy what you love!

Handbags from Frye (with the same rich leather depth as the brand’s beloved boots) are new to Larrimor’s this season, as are fabulous belts from W. Kleinberg. Try the great-looking skinny double-wrap style or the unique painted python. Just a few suggestions, with plenty more in store!

Constructing a Solid Foundation to Cure Alzheimer’s CAROL MASSARO’S DEEPLY PERSONAL COMMITMENT TO FUNDING PITTSBURGH RESEARCH.

BY ANN TRONDLE-PRICE

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With the money she has raised, Carol is currently funding a unique study at the University of Pittsburgh headed by neurologist Dr. Edward Burton.

The initial shock of the diagnosis was soon replaced by a shock of a different sort when Carol discovered that there were no effective drug treatments, no big medical breakthroughs, not even a clear understanding of what causes

PHOTO: ARCHIE CARPENTER

T FIRST, IT WAS BARELY NOTICEABLE. We all forget words as we get older, Carol Massaro thought. She wasn’t really concerned about her husband until the day she and Joe were showing their grandchildren around their new Shadyside condo and Joe told the kids he was glad their place was so close to the “umbrella.” They all laughed. They knew he meant to say “elevator.” But then that word started creeping into other conversations. Suddenly Joe was seeing umbrellas everywhere.

A dynamic personality and the CEO of Massaro Corp., one of the region’s largest construction companies, Joe Massaro was “the guy who remembered everyone’s name, who drew people to him, who got things done,” says Carol.

She wasn’t prepared for the new entity who would slowly take his place: a tentative person trapped in a murky world where family faces and local neighborhood streets would become utterly unfamiliar. It took two years to get a diagnosis, but then it came. Doctors at the University of Pittsburgh Alzheimer’s Disease Research Center diagnosed 72-year-old Joe Massaro with Alzheimer’s.

Carol Massaro the disease. “Alzheimer’s is a ‘no cause, no cure, no medicine’ disease. With everything we know about cancer, heart disease and other deadly diseases, we know almost nothing about Alzheimer’s. I was floored.”

Carol’s search for answers began when she realized that Joe would need 24/7 care. Initially, she served as caregiver herself, relying on her daughter to Continued next page

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give her a break each day so she could run errands or have a few hours to herself. “What people don’t realize is that Alzheimer’s is so much worse than they think. It’s not just the mind that goes. The whole body deteriorates,” she explains. “Joe’s heart got so weak and he lost weight at an alarming rate, no matter what he ate. Alzheimer’s patients need constant care.” Finally, she had to bring in full-time caregivers and on December 30, 2015, Joe Massaro passed away. Devastated, his family donated his brain to Alzheimer’s research.

Alzheimer’s is the sixth leading cause of death in the U.S., and kills more than breast and prostate cancer combined.

Well before her husband’s death, Carol had come to realize her life’s purpose was now to seek a cure for the disease, and she was convinced that the only way to do that was through research. To amp up what little research was being done, she launched the Joseph A. Massaro Alzheimer’s Research Foundation.

“I went to the Pittsburgh Foundation,” she says. “You can start a foundation there with as little as $10,000, and that’s what I did.”

She was also unequivocal about keeping her efforts focused in Pittsburgh. “We have wonderful researchers right here.

And if we don’t keep funding them, they’ll go somewhere else, where the money is.” Unlike many other foundations, Carol’s foundation donates every penny it raises to research.

Carol’s initial investment was augmented by her first fundraising event in 2014 at Oakmont Country Club, which she underwrote herself. “I figured if I could get 100 people to donate $1,000 apiece, we’d have real momentum,” she says. The outpouring of support was more than she could have ever imagined. One individual donated $100,000. Carol followed that event with a successful 2015 gala at the LeMont restaurant featuring

More than 5 million Americans are living with alzheimer’s.

One in nine people age 65 and older has Alzheimer’s disease.

Alzheimer’s is the only disease among the top 10 causes of death in the U.S. that cannot be prevented, cured or even slowed. soprano Marianne Cornetti. That event raised another $100,000. This past June during the U.S. Open, Carol and a friend hosted the foundation’s third fundraiser by assembling “The Largest Seated Table in Pittsburgh” for Guinness World Records.

With the money she has raised, Carol is currently funding a unique study at the University of Pittsburgh headed by neurologist Dr. Edward Burton. His team is studying the brain activity of tiny zebra fish, which share more than 70% of their genetic material with humans. His work is focused on identifying the molecular activity and proteins that can lead to Alzheimer’s.

“You never know where the breakthroughs will come from,” she says. “You just have to keep on trying.”

In addition, Carol has appeared in promotions for the film 21 Voices, now in the fundraising stages. “Right now, no one resource exists to help people understand the signs and symptoms and find help for this disease,” Carol says. “This film by Tom Kurlander, whose mother suffered from Alzheimer’s, will become that resource once it’s made.” More information can be found at 21voices.org.

To speak with Carol about Alzheimer’s and her mission to find the cure in Pittsburgh is to not only hear the voice of a wife devastated by the death of her husband, but also of a hardened crusader who is deeply immersed in the language of research. Hers is also the voice of an unflagging optimist. “I don’t want one more person to get this horrendous disease,” she exclaims with deep conviction. “No one deserves this. No patient, no family…no one.”

Larrimor’s is planning an event to help the Joseph A. Massaro Alzheimer’s Research Foundation. Stay tuned.

One in three seniors dies with Alzheimer’s or another dementia.

Every 66 seconds someone in the U.S. develops the disease.

BENEDUM TREES BUILDING 223 FOURTH AVENUE PITTSBURGH 15219 HEIDIOPTICS.COM FB.COM/HEIDIOPTICS 412.281.7022

PHOTOS: ARCHIE CARPENTER

The Rake’s Progress featured costume and set design by acclaimed British painter David Hockney.

IMAGE COURTESY OF PITTSBURGH OPERA

INSIDE EDITION

On April 14, Larrimor’s hosted Inside Edition: The Rake’s Progress, a behindthe-scenes evening of music, art and fashion to benefit Pittsburgh Opera.

Special guest Maestro Steve Hackman superimposed a contemporary beat on an opera score for an informal fashion show modeled by Pittsburgh Opera’s resident artists.

See more photos at Larrimors.com/in-print/news/inside-edition.

Don’t miss out on exciting future events! Give your email address to your sales associate and we’ll be certain to add you to our VIP invitation list.

quality

Hallmarks of

TOP

TAILORING ROLL-PADDING LAPELS provides spring and shape to the lapels.

HAND-SEWN ARMHOLES

create softness in the shoulder for comfort and a more natural shape.

FULLY BASTED CANVAS CHEST PIECE is labor-intensive but adds shape, fit and longevity to the garment.

HAND STITCHING

on all edges, flaps and collars provides a superior overall finish.

REAL HORSETAIL CANVAS is for added durability in the chest piece.

GENEROUS SEAM ALLOWANCES

BLIND STITCHING

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IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN

create ease of tailoring should you gain (or lose) weight.

in the jacket vent and hem lining provides better lining fit and easier alterations.

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Like iconic structures, welldesigned clothing beckons to be “inhabited.” This fall, form, function & fabric converge for a season of unforgettable style.

of

ARCHITECTURE

STYLE

MENSWEAR

RULES Back in the day, gentlemen seeking sartorial perfection had strict rules to follow— so many, in fact, that books were written to help them avoid embarrassing faux pas. Thankfully, the rules have relaxed, and these days well-dressed guys can rely on their intuition, their personal style and some sound suggestions from their favorite store associates. But as they say, you have to know the rules before you can break them. Here, our suggestions for upping your fashion quotient this fall.

STYLING BY JOSEPH DEACETIS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID ARKY

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THE BUZZ ON

BUTTONS ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Sometimes, always, never: this rule tells you when to button the top, middle and bottom buttons on a threebutton suit. On two-button jackets, it’s always for the top and never for the bottom (except for sitting, when all buttons should be undone). Today’s bestselling suit is a two-button model, since its elongated V-neckline flatters almost any body type,

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The consensus is that wider suit lapels flatter big guys, while thinner men can get away with narrow lapels. The notch lapel, shown at right, is a go-to option since it’s forgiving to most body types. Peak lapels, shown at left, add an element of power and strength.

They’re trending on both singlebreasted and double-breasted models, while shawl collars are still reserved for tuxes and dinner jackets.

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ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

LAPEL LOGIC

SOCK IT TO ME

Traditional menswear rules hold that socks should coordinate with your trouser, not your shoes, while contemporary sensibilities allow for a colored sock that complements something else in your outfit. Work your sock into the color scheme established by your shirt, sweater, or pocket square for a coordinated feel that leaves no detail overlooked.

NECKWEAR NOTES

ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

ROLEX/ TOM O’NEAL

A tie worn at the proper length helps to balance the proportion between your legs and torso. Squarebottom ties (common on knit styles) should end at the top of your belt buckle, while ties with pointed bottoms should hit around midbuckle.

Millennials are reshaping the rules of menswear for all age groups. Take a cue from the kids: don’t be afraid to mix textures and patterns, pair sportswear (even sneakers!) with tailored pieces, or break up your suits into separates.

MILLENNIAL MASH-UP

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the FASHION forum PERFECTION PERSONIFIED If there was any lingering question of the brilliance, innovation and craftsmanship of the late couturier Yves Saint Laurent, the new museum exhibition Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style (on view at the Seattle Art Museum from October 11 to January 16 before traveling to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts on May 7) should put any doubts to rest. This multifaceted retrospective drawn from the collection of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent will shine a bright light on the designer’s genius. On view will be 100 of his greatest creations that span nearly 50 years—some never before seen in public—along with photographs, drawings and films that give insight into his particular process. Says curator Florence Muller: “The changes he progressively introduced into the traditional representation of the feminine and masculine bodies and the codes of seduction stand at the origin of the profound changes of contemporary ways of dress.” Truer words were never spoken.

Wisdom of many sorts is dispensed in A.C. Phillips’ wonderful how-to guide, The Pocket Square: 22 Essential Folds. Each chapter (with such unforgettable titles as “The Guido Puff” or “Diamonds are Forever”) illustrates how to create one pocket square look perfect for any suit or sportcoat. Better still, each section is preceded by an aptly chosen quote from a style icon, ranging from playwright Oscar Wilde to actors Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart to designers Hardy Amies, Tom Ford and Luciano Barbera. Best of all, there’s also a page with eight must-know “Etiquette” rules, including our favorite: “A gentleman should carry one square for show and another to blow.” Now this is what we call essential reading.

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THE FASHION FORUM WRITTEN BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

Square Deal

HAND-CRAFTED IN NEW YORK

The Fashion Forum

OH KEI!

I

f Canali’s Kei jacket has taken the fashion world by storm, it’s no surprise. As cozy and light as a knit garment, impeccably sharp, and so comfortable it can be worn year-round, this softly structured jacket is a masterpiece of Italian tailoring that can be appreciated (and worn) by men from every walk of life. And that’s exactly what Giorgio Canali had planned from the start: “When we created the Kei jacket, we didn’t have a specific customer in mind. We wanted something that would be timeless and appeal to many different types of men. The Kei strikes the perfect balance between comfort and style and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. It’s this level of versatility that makes it such a hit season after season.” Trust us: no closet should be without one!

So comfortable it can be worn yearround, this softly structured jacket is a masterpiece of Italian tailoring.

SPRINGS AHEAD

J

ohnny Cash wasn’t always the man in black.

Don’t believe us? Just head to the Hard Rock Hotel Palm Springs, which not only has Cash’s signed green corduroy jacket on display, but such other fabulous fashions as Sammy Davis Jr.’s 1974 custom suit, a one-of-a-kind vinyl outfit worn by Cher, and Lady Gaga’s shiny silicon, silver wire and crystal dress. And through December 31, you can truly feel like a rock star by taking advantage of the Hard Rock’s “Amplified” package (available at all 23 of its hotels around the globe), which includes not just a personalized tour of the hotel’s memorabilia collection, but also a pre-reserved Fender guitar complete with floor amp and headphones, a special collectible pin and a limited-edition hat. One visit here and any blues you have (Folsom Prison or otherwise) will be a long-forgotten memory.

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One hundred years of excellence.

Handcrafted in America since 1916.

travel

A BEYOND-EXCLUSIVE ALL-INCLUSIVE, GRAND VELAS RIVIERA NAYARIT AMAZES AND DELIGHTS IN ENDLESS WAYS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Luxury WITH SOUL

should have known this would be no ordinary holiday when I received a questionnaire from the resort a few days prior to my trip, an offer to “personalize my wellness experience.”

If I would like my suite scented throughout my stay, would I prefer myrrh, lavender, cedar or tangerine? From the following selection of organic soaps, please select oats-bran-honey, agave, lavender or grapefruit-salt. Would I like to try a pillow and mattress with magnetic technology? Do I want my morning juice to be detox, antioxidant or energizing? Do I prefer my private fitness class in the gym or on my terrace overlooking the ocean? When would I like to schedule my Serenity Massage (on my terrace) and my hydrothermal ritual (in the 16,5000-sq.-ft. spa)?

Would I prefer the resort’s award-winning restaurant menus, the spa cuisine menu, or a personalized menu created by the chef?

Before I share my experience at the amazing Grand Velas resort (a AAA Five Diamond, all-inclusive Leading Hotel of the World on the Pacific near Puerto Vallarta, Mexico), let me preface by not-

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sine, yoga, Pilates, Zumba and much more.

But whether your desires lean toward wellness, decadence or laziness, the resort meets them all in style, in an ambiance that’s welcoming and steeped in natural beauty. The flowering landscaped gardens, the dramatic backdrop of the Sierra Madres, the legendary sunsets and, of course, the long stretch of pristine beach lining azure waters, all serve to comfort body and soul. We alternated floating in the warm gentle waves of the Pacific with dips in the magnificent three-tiered infinity pool, each section heated to a different degree.

(Our favorite was the oceanfront tier with swim-up bar and superfriendly bartenders concocting delicious combinations of rum, vodka, pineapple, nutmeg and all sorts of intoxicating ingredients.)

Grand Velas has won numerous awards from Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure, TripAdvisor, U.S. News & World Report and Forbes, which named it one of the Top Ten Coolest All-Inclusives.

I can now confirm that it’s beyond cool: a blissful escape where one can’t help but relax, renew, resolve and thoroughly appreciate life’s blessings. Or as my husband observes, “If you enjoy being miserable, don’t stay here!”

ing that my husband and I are not “wellness” people. He is a perennially stressed-out CPA who has been trying to lose about 50 pounds for the past five years and enjoys being negative and grumpy. I live on coffee, wine and pasta and have not entered a gym in ages. A New Yorker by birth and disposition, I thrive on crowds and chaos: the prospect of a peaceful, soothing, sustaining respite intrigued but also terrified me.

I needn’t have worried. Everything about Grand Velas—from the rooms (267 oceanview suites, some with private plunge pools) to the luxury amenities (an award-winning spa with 20 treatment suites and 30-plus spa treatments, many inspired by the native traditions of Mexico; fitness center; 24/7 in-suite service; water sports; tennis; baby concierge; Kids Club; teen lounge) to the personalized service (exceptional but not gratuitous) to the incredible restaurants (three of which have received AAA Four Diamond awards)—is pure perfection. Their wellness package includes a personal concierge, Serenity Massage (heaven!), personal training session, two-level oceanview suite with private hot tub on the rooftop level, in-suite training equipment (ours served as a perfect valet to hold wet swimwear), spa cui-

VELAS VARIETALS

IF YOU LOVE GRAND VELAS, CHECK OUT THESE TWO OTHER NEARBY VELAS RESORTS. Casa Velas is a luxury boutique hotel and fabulous ocean club (just minutes from the beach) for adults only, nestled on the greens of Marina Vallarta’s 18-hole golf course (golf fees are included in the all-inclusive package). Just five minutes from the airport and 15 minutes from the boardwalk, shops and art galleries of Puerto Vallarta, this upscale resort features 80 suites, many with private pools and hot tubs. Amenities include Spa Casa Velas (specializing in couples treatments) and a unique “handbag bar” where guests can borrow designer bags for the evening. Emiliano is their wonderful AAA Four Diamond restaurant; guests also enjoy dining privileges at Grand Velas.

Velas Vallarta is a fabulous family all-inclusive located on 10 acres of oceanfront in Puerto Vallarta. Situated on the emerald waters of Banderas Bay, it offers 345 suites in three eight-story buildings, seaside spa cabins, a transformative spa, fitness center, multiple restaurants, nightly theme dinners, and an inviting lounge with live music. Eco-conscious at its core, the resort uses solar panels and protects/releases marine turtles. A recently renovated Kids Club features supervised activities for kids under 13 so their parents can hit the golf course, spa or any one of numerous excursions, including various adventure activities in the Sierra Madre mountains.

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FASHION IS...

I

BY DINA PELLY

T IS SOMETHING THAT COMES FROM WITHIN YOU. It is a way

to say who you are without having to speak. It is art and you are the canvas.

Fashion is something that we deal with every day. Even people who say they don’t care about what they are wearing choose clothes every day. What we choose to wear each and every morning says a lot about who we are and how we feel on that particular day.

I love fashion because it is an extension of my personality. It can tell what kind of mood I am in. It can tell people to back off or it can invite people in to show a softer side of me. Fashion gives me a certain amount of freedom and allows me to be who I want to be. For me, it is part of my life and happiness. It makes me smile, it inspires me and it gives me hope for a better life. It opens my eyes and makes my dreams become a reality.

To be a great designer, one must have a signature in life.

They must have a calling card uniquely their own. In the case of St. John, that couldn’t be truer. My love for St. John

started very young, and not at all in the way that you’re probably imagining. My grandmother would always wear the most beautiful clothing. As a child, I would play in her closet and try on all of her beautiful jewelry and fur coats.

When I started studying fashion, I knew that one day I too would want to be that “St. John grandmother.”

St. John Knits are so fabulous for so many reasons. You can wear them for all occasions and they always look elegant and sophisticated. When I started working at Larrimor’s, I learned that St. John was not only for my grandmother, but that I was able to wear it as well. The line has something for everyone, at any age, with any figure. If you travel, their pieces are almost wrinkle-free and have such a style that you always look crisp. With St. John, you are never underdressed and never overstated; the best part is you always look so glamorous in the garment.

For bi-weekly style advice and designer spotlights, visit larrimors.com/blog and subscribe for updates.

A LITTLE FINER A LOT MORE CAREFUL For your designer clothing you need the

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Coat

Cure

NORWEGIAN WOOL SOLVES WINTER WARDROBE DILEMMAS FOR PROFESSIONAL MEN.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

“I WANTED TO CREATE THE MERCEDES OR LEXUS SUV OF FASHION OUTERWEAR.” —MICHAEL BERKOWITZ

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hroughout history, many of the best innovations have come from people trying to solve life’s basic challenges.

Norwegian Wool, a men’s luxury outerwear brand, falls into this category. Tired of having a closet full of coats but not a single one that looked professional enough to wear to his Wall Street hedge fund job while also being warm enough to battle NYC winters, Michael Berkowitz decided to create his own outerwear brand.

Norwegian Wool’s mission: to produce top-of-the-line outerwear combining the newest technology for warmth, water repellency and functionality with tailored, sharp-looking coats and blazers. As a car enthusiast, Berkowitz puts it this way: ‘‘Most luxury car brands now offer SUV models with features meant to combat winter driving conditions; I wanted to create the Mercedes or Lexus SUV of fashion outerwear.’’

All Norwegian Wool styles use authentic down fill for their linings.

This provides heat regulation without much weight or bulk. On the outside, all coats and blazers are made from the finest Italian wools and cashmeres. Despite their true waterproofing technology, they retain a smooth and luxurious feel. ‘‘Small things go a long way,” maintains Berkowitz. “Adding super-comfortable, extra-deep pockets and incredibly soft collars that close well around the neck turns runwayinspired fashion into functional outerwear well suited for New York or Pittsburgh winters.”

The name Norwegian Wool evolved from a business trip to Oslo, where Berkowitz observed people outside in -10 degree weather not looking like “puffer balls.” Craving their secret, he flew back to the Fashion Institute of Norway and had its design team help create functional aspects of coats that could combat real Scandinavian weather.

In its third season, Norwegian Wool is sold in over 40 high-end specialty stores throughout the Midwest and Northeast. While they continue to add more products to their line, they are sticking to their mission of fashion and function. "The world has plenty of luxury designers: no one needs me to create product that looks like everything else on the market. My job is to take the most beautiful designs and make them more wearable for business professionals who must combat city winters.”

Thanks Norwegian Wool: warmth has never been so stylish!

Game

LAUGHTER AND CAMARADERIE IN A SERIOUS WORLD.

BY WAYNE MAIBAUM ears ago, after a divorce, I moved to a nearby town and asked a colleague if he was interested in forming a poker game. I also asked a neighbor, an acquaintance I met at my daughter’s day care, a former coworker and a friend of a friend. When enough people showed interest, the game was on.

Twenty-five years later, although players have come and gone, a core seven remain.

I’m a semi-retired general dentist; Fedele is also a dentist, Stan an oral surgeon, Lloyd a professor of molecular biology, Jeff a CPA, Robert a television engineer and John a retired systems analyst. The group has some diversity: Stan is African-American and John, Chinese. We’ve played together so long that we implicitly know each other’s style, so it’s hard to bluff!

We’ve learned to accept each other’s quirks and idiosyncrasies. We recall many of the same stories at each game.

My favorite is about the time I bit into a hot pepper while eating a sub sandwich. The juice of the pepper squirted across the table and hit Fedele in the eye. He screamed like he’d been shot and, with one eye closed, ran to the nearest bathroom. Bending down to splash some water in his eye, he didn’t notice that Stan had recently installed a glass shelf above the sink. When he stood up, his head hit the shelf with a loud crash and he hobbled back to the card table with one hand pressing his eye and the other the top of his head.

We couldn’t stop laughing.

One game we play is called three-legged: the pot keeps growing until someone wins three hands. We have a sophisticated tracking system: each player marks his wins with cheese Combos or peanut

M&Ms; if you eat one, you lose it. Fedele’s brother was sitting in at a game one night and quite innocently put one of his markers in his mouth.

One of the guys noticed and screamed out, “He’s eating it!” Hearing this, Fedele’s brother urgently spit the candy across the room, certain he was being poisoned.

Stan usually works the day of the game and rushes to get home, eat dinner with his family, do some chores, and then get to the game. As a result he’s always late; our tradition is to place a side bet on what time he’ll show up.

One night Robert mentioned that he was going to celebrate his birthday the following week. Surprised, I told him I had similar plans; it turned out we had the same birthday. We’d been playing cards together for decades before learning this!

Lloyd is very methodical (or superstitious). For as long as I can remember, he has come to the games with his money in an old metal Band-Aid box decorated with Disney characters. He leaves with his money in the same box, never counting it, always declaring, “It’s about the fun of playing…” We are all grown men with good minds, responsible jobs and decent math skills. But when it comes to counting the pot or splitting the winnings, we defer to Jeff, the Certified Public Accountant.

Much has happened in the past 25 years: moves, marriages, children, job changes, illnesses, loss of loved ones. Life is unpredictable; nothing stays the same. But for 25 years, our game has survived, providing continuity, connection and comfort to an unlikely group of guys who share an ineffable common bond.

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GETTY IMAGES THE CARD PLAYERS BY PAUL CÉZANNE

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The Card

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LARRIMOR’S FORUM FW 2016/17