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Larrimor’s Forum/The Substance of Style/SS 2017

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profile

L’Agence, Je t’aime

BY NICOLA HARRISON RUIZ

When you think of French style, an effortlessly chic, feminine and confidently dressed woman immediately comes to mind. But achieving that perfect balance—looking put-together without trying too hard—is not as easy as it seems. Enter L’Agence, a Los Angeles brand that has been strongly influenced by Parisian style since its inception in 2008. With a vision to create silhouettes that make women look and feel beautiful, the collection is built upon essentials that are sexy yet sophisticated, basic while body-conscious, tapping into that French girl attitude with a cool California touch. Take, for example, the Rita blouse, the ideal date-night top. The drape-front, long-sleeve silhouette displays a flattering shawl neckline, is shorter at the front so you don’t have to think about whether to tuck, and offers a subtle feminine touch in its delicate, slightly sheer fabric. The Bianca blouse, on the other hand, is a silk chiffon style that will go seamlessly from the office to cocktails tucked into a pencil skirt or under a blazer. In denim, the high-rise Margot, mid-rise Brigitte and lowrise Chantal are all part of the line’s new French Jean Collection, which is made with fabrics from Isko, the industry leader in high-performance stretch denim. It keeps its shape, hugs, holds and gives in all the right places, but comes back to where it’s supposed to be no matter how much you wear it. The contoured waistband (with construction borrowed from menswear) means the jeans won’t gap or reveal too much and greatly reduces chance of the dreaded muffin top, elevating these styles to ultimate denim status. Femininity is a key component of L’Agence designs, which can be seen in something as simple as a lightweight knit sweater with a deep V in the back, embracing the classic French ability to be at once sexy and classy. The spring collection features hints of military style: stars and studs, and lots of neutrals like gray and army green with pops of crimson. But L’Agence won’t stray far from what its customers have come to know and love—essential pieces that women actually want and need in their wardrobes.

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Getting to the Art of the Matter HIGHMARK FOUNDATION’S YVONNE COOK WANTS TO MAKE PITTSBURGH A HUB FOR AFRICAN-AMERICAN ART. BY ANN TRONDLE-PRICE

I

f Yvonne Cook has anything to say about it, Pittsburgh art lovers will one day rattle off the names of Thaddeus Mosley and Vanessa German in the same sentence as those other hometown heroes, Andy Warhol and Mary Cassatt. “My goal—in fact, my passion—is to create a vibrant Pittsburgh-based market for African-American art. This art just hasn’t gotten the attention it deserves. But now it’s really taking off.” As president of the Highmark Foundation, vice president of Highmark’s Community and Health Initiatives, and a cofounder of the August Wilson Center, Cook has always supported the local community at a grassroots level. Now with

her new business, ArtsPulse, she’s added the title of “entrepreneur” to her CV. “My mission with ArtsPulse is threefold,” she explains. “I want to continue to expose existing collectors to African-American fine art. I want to increase the number of collectors who will buy African-American fine art. And I want to make it much more available for public viewing, so all art lovers can be inspired by it.” Her first big coup is the opening of Instill & Inspire, a new exhibition running from April 1st Continued next page Above: Yvonne Cook, ArtsPulse, and sculptor Thaddeus Mosley view the artist’s latest creation.



PHOTO COURTESY OF BRIAN COHEN, PH.D

Yvonne Cook stands before a painting by Bentley Hicks. through June 30, 2017 at the August Wilson Center. The show brings the world-class African-American art collection of John and Vivian Hewitt to Pittsburgh from the Gantt Center for African-American Arts + Culture in Charlotte, North Carolina. The show features 58 pieces by 20 artists from 1900 to 1989, including Pittsburgh artists Romare Bearden, Ann Tanksley and Henry Ossawa Tanner. On separate display are approximately 50 reproductions of artwork by renowned painter Jonathan Green. “I was able to bring this show to Pittsburgh thanks to our fiscal sponsor, the Pittsburgh Cultural Trust, and our wonderful donors,” she says. “We looked at four different locations for the show, but we chose the August Wilson Center because it just made the most sense, mission-wise and location-wise.” Cook is also thrilled to bring the collection to Pittsburgh because Vivian Hewitt, who is now 96 years old, is a native of New Castle. “The Hewitts lived in New York and regularly opened their home to the public so people could view this important African-American art. Many also went there to buy. The Hewitts helped build an audience for these pieces and in the process, created a market for it.” In addition to bringing exhibitions to the city, Cook also wants to help nurture young talent in the local communities. “I hope this work inspires young people who may in

turn go on to become artists in their own right,” she says. “The stories of African-American artists need to be told. I want children to see this work and not only appreciate art in all of its diversity, but to understand it as part of our nation’s story…our shared history.” Cook also believes that art can challenge us in unique ways. “Sometimes the subject matter is disturbing or pulls us out of our comfort zone. But that’s all part of the conversation. Whether the artist is speaking to something that happened today or in the past, we need to look at it and see it clearly.” Her next major goal is, not surprisingly, an ambitious one. ”I would love to do an ‘East meets West’ show that unites artists from Pittsburgh and Philadelphia,” she says with almost giddy enthusiasm. “Can you imagine? A show that spans the whole state. And this show would travel to other cities.” Taking shows on the road is no easy feat, but Cook is determined to share what we have in our little corner of the world with the rest of it.

“I want to expose existing collectors to African-American fine art. I want to increase the number of collectors who will buy African-American fine art.”—Yvonne Cook, ArtsPulse “In the meantime, I’ll keep on building my own collection,” she says with a smile. “Little by little, I’m acquiring works I really love.” She counts Thad Mosley, Vanessa German, Gavin Benjamin, Nina Chanel Abney, Benny Andrews and Amy Sherald among the many artists whose work is currently in her private collection. And if Yvonne Cook has her way, there will soon be many more collectors for African-American art who are willing to buy, share and exhibit their work for the rest of us to enjoy. To make that happen, she’ll continue to keep her finger on the pulse.



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Clearing the Way to Find a Cure for Dementia HAYLEY JAMESON’S CLEAR THOUGHTS FOUNDATION IS WORKING TO BRING HOPE THROUGH DRUG DISCOVERY. BY ANN TRONDLE-PRICE

H

e was a U.S. Steel executive. An engineer. A marathon runner. An artist. “My dad was charming. He was an educated man and a wonderful father,” remembers Hayley Jameson. “And then, out of the blue, he started to change.” Watching her father’s tortuous slide into dementia motivated Hayley, president of the recruiting firm HDJ & Associates, to found the Clear Thoughts Foundation, a non-profit that funds drug discovery for dementia. “Dementia is especially horrible because it robs you of your loved ones while they’re still alive,” she explains. “There are literally hundreds of forms of dementia. Alzheimer’s gets the most attention, but that’s just one form of dementia. And as was the case for us, there’s not always a family history you can point to. Dementia can happen to anyone, even highly successful, educated people like my dad.” It took two years for Hayley’s father to get a diagnosis, and she says that’s not uncommon. “And once you get that diagnosis, there’s no treatment available. Nothing. A small handful of drugs will modify the symptoms at best, but nothing can cure the disease. If you are lucky, you can slow it down but you can’t stop the progression,” she explains. “And there’s no way to prevent it. That helpless feeling—of having no choices and no options—drove me, my brother [Matthew Jameson], and others to create the Clear Thoughts Foundation.” Clear Thoughts is laser-focused on drug discovery for dementia, particularly those that are novel or cuttingedge. “Our foundation is unique in that we are 100% focused on funding dementia research that will bring a drug or therapeutic to market sooner, rather than later,” Hayley explains.

Hayley and her father. “Although, by default, we end up educating and supporting families, that’s not our mission. All of our money goes into research, because that’s what’s sorely lacking.” Hayley is especially excited about work the foundation is currently funding at the Pittsburgh Institute for Neurodegenerative Diseases (PIND), based at UPMC. “They have a very open, collaborative structure,” she notes. “In the same space that they’re working on drugs for dementia, they’re also working on ALS and Parkinson’s treatments. So if something promising comes out of one team, it can be shared immediately with the others, in case there’s some use for it to treat another condition.” Through the Clear Thoughts Foundation, Hayley is continuing to build awareness. With six fundraising events yearly, she hopes to create a momentum that will bring hope and maybe even a cure to families desperate for good news. “A cure will be found,” she insists. “Unfortunately it was not in time to help my family, but it will be in time to help others. I just know it.” More information is available at clearthoughtsfoundation.org.



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Join our Circle of Red and Men Go Red for Women members as we celebrate survivor stories with a fashion show during this year’s luncheon, while sharing information about how we can end heart disease, the number one killer of women. The Circle of Red/Men Go Red for Women is a powerful, passionate group of people dedicated \W UISQVO IV QUXIK\ QV W]Z KWUU]VQ\a¼[ ÅOP\ IOIQV[\ PMIZ\ LQ[MI[M 5MUJMZ[ PI^M \PM QVÆ]MVKM IVL ZM[W]ZKM[ \W PMTX ZITTa _WUMV \W \ISM KPIZOM WN \PMQZ PMIZ\ PMIT\P IVL I\\MVL M`KT][Q^M OI\PMZQVO[ \W PMIZ ÅZ[\ PIVL _PI\ \PMQZ LWTTIZ[ IZM LWQVO \W UISM I LQNNMZMVKM Friday, May 19, 2017 Q ?aVLPIU /ZIVL 8Q\\[J]ZOP ,W_V\W_V +PIQZ" 8I\ZQKQI ,IZVTMa +-7 /I\M_Ia 0MIT\P 8TIV Please contact Katie Saluga for sponsorship information at katie.saluga@heart.org or 412.208.3568.

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TRANSFORMING FASHION According to designer Iris van Herpen, fashion adds value to the world. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN What do Beyoncé, Björk, Lady Gaga and Scarlett Johansson have in common? They’ve all worn outrageous dresses designed by innovative artist Iris van Herpen, the subject of an exhibition at the Carnegie Museum that continues through May 1, 2017. Born in Holland in 1984, van Herpen is known for her striking futuristic aesthetic and meticulous precision. Her designs express female character and emotions while extending and detailing the shape of the feminine body. In so doing, she manages to reevaluate reality and underline individuality. This particular exhibit, part of her first North American tour, gathers seven years of her original haute couture. It features 15 of her collections across an eclectic range of materials and

techniques. For example, her Refinery Smoke dress (July 2008) is crafted from untreated metal gauze and cow leather. Her Radiation Invasion dress (September 2009) incorporates faux leather, gold foil, cotton and tulle. In her own words: “For me, fashion is an expression of art that is closely related to me and to my body. I see it as my expression of identity combined with desire, moods and cultural setting. I’m not a believer in ‘form follows function.’ I find that forms complement and change the body, and thus the emotions. So fashion adds value to the world.” In that Pittsburgh is a center of both technology and creativity, the Carnegie Museum is a perfect venue for this groundbreaking exhibition. For more information visit cmoa.org.

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Class

Learn to ignore changing fads and ace your look with updated classics. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

“YOU CAN’T BE SERIOUS,” responded my inner Little Lord Fauntleroy to the magazine my wife thrust in front of me. It was filled with images of spring men’s fashion, and breezy as it might be, it’s hard to visualize myself swooshing around in a Yohji Yamamoto men’s pleated skirt, or a tailored suit with shorts, or any of the attention-getting androgynous looks parading down today’s runways. We men like to believe that our minds are occupied with loftier thoughts than deciphering fashion trends. Yet as much as we insist we don’t care about clothes, on some primal level we do. Our end game is to stay relevant and not look like lost transports from forgotten decades. We’re living in the 21st century, and you’ve probably noticed menswear trending trimmer, Iconic style evolving with the times without pushing transcends time: Pierce Brosnan the envelope. It manages to be modern (1995) and Cary by incorporating innovative fabrics and Grant (1959) look tailoring techniques, so the new looks great in any era. are now as comfortable and easy-care as they are fashionable. In other words, today’s clothing will give you an enviable nonchalant style without drawing unwanted attention. For while I don’t mind engaging in an occasional fashion conversation, I’m certainly not interested in being the conversation. As Yves Saint Laurent noted, “Fashion fades, style is eternal.” With that in mind, here are a few tips to achieve a winning look and up your style game. • Buy investment pieces from timeless designers like Canali, Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli. They’re on top for a reason: you can’t go wrong with quality tailoring and enduring style. • Owning a versatile sport coat is mandatory. Think of it as the Swiss Army knife of your wardrobe. Comfortable, well tailored, lightweight and easy to dress up or down for any occasion. Let it become your go-

to piece for spring 2017. Try Canali’s Kei jacket or a soft coat from Zegna or Samuelsohn. You’ll see the light. Throw it on over anything and immediately feel confident. • Fitted shirts will make you look 10 years younger. If you’re hard to fit, custom is a great option (and it won’t break the bank). • Never undervalue the importance of accessories. Without throwing your world off its axis, you can upgrade any look with something as simple as a printed pocket square, a great belt, fun socks or standout shoes. • Give your wardrobe a fresh look by mixing it up. Pair your dress shoes with jeans and try leather or suede sneakers with your suit. Wear your go-to sport coat with either jeans or dress pants. As Luciano Barbera explains it, “Dress up your sportswear and dress down your formalwear.” • Explore spring’s many alternatives to denim: five-pocket pants in lightweight stretch fabrics that fit and feel terrific. Yes, blues and tans are forever, but why not consider a pair in a more interesting shade (or pattern)? • Take advantage of our well-curated assortments and knowledgeable sellers. Their suggestions will open your eyes to new clothes that might just get you excited about menswear again.

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TOP:JOHN STODDART/GETTY IMAGES; SUNSET BOULEVARD/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES

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ask

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Q:

In the past I’ve shied away from bright colors, and green in particular, but this year green seems to be everywhere. How can I ease this shade into my wardrobe? We noticed the same thing when shopping the spring/summer 2017 collections from our favorite brands, and Pantone solidified the trend when they named Greenery as the 2017 Color of the Year. Try it in small doses, like on an accessory; in a less attention-getting shade like khaki green or dark olive; or on your bottom half so the color isn’t so close to your face. People in the fashion world sometimes get hung up on what the Color of the Year is. Some years you see everyone wearing it, and some years you see it only in the limitededition makeup palette at Sephora. But it’s not meant to be dictatorial; think of it as a springboard when shopping for the season. Greenery in particular works best as an accent. (And it certainly wouldn’t be our first pick for an eyeshadow or lipstick shade!) If it just doesn’t appeal to you, there are plenty of other ways to keep your wardrobe current, so not to worry. On the other hand, if you do happen to look good in an uncommon color, wear it and flaunt it! It’s a real opportunity to look different from everyone else, and sometimes standing out can be a lot of fun.

some brands we think you’ll love to give a twist to your tried-and-true favorites. We’re so excited to introduce Trina Turk, who we love for her bold, colorful prints. Rebecca Taylor is also new to the store, and we know you’ll adore her relaxed, feminine pieces just as much as we do. Boho tunics from Johnny Was, great denim from Citizens of Humanity, draped dresses from Porto: these items (and many others) are bringing a fresh, updated look to the floor at Larrimor’s. Come in and let us show you how they can do the same for your closet.

Q:

I’ve outlived my shorts and miniskirt days, but I still crave a fun look for summer. Are there other options for staying cool in the warmer months? There are always options! Dresses are playful, comfortable and come in all different lengths. Chose a skirt that hits at or just under the knee, or expose more leg but keep covered up on top. Our dress assortment highlights gorgeous sleeves from our favorite designers: St. John, Elie Tahari, Paule Ka and more. (Turn to our Spring Forward fashion beginning on page 6 to see the special detailing for yourself.) Jude Connally’s easy-wearing jersey print dresses are another great choice. We also recommend you check out the new

Q:

women’s line from PT01, a brand we have long

At Larrimor’s, our goal is to bring you the lines and items we know you want, but also to help you step outside your comfort zone and offer something new. So we’ve brought in

the occasion and how much skin you feel

Which new brands should I be on the lookout for the next time I visit the store?

PT01 Caroline pant 42

admired for their perfect-fitting men’s pants. The women’s versions feature beautiful tailoring and unique fabrics in cropped silhouettes that were made for summer. Depending on comfortable showing, you can pair them with anything from a slinky tank to a flowy blouse to a structured white button-down.


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ask

I’d like a new sport coat that’s not a basic blazer. What do you suggest?

I see a lot of guys wearing What kind of shirt would look shorter, tighter suits these great worn both with and days; is that still the look for 2017? without a tie?

Q:

Q:

Patterns, be they subtle or loud, are definitely happening in spring sport coats. We love the more muted plaids in shades of blue, berry or soft gray, but feel free to make a bolder statement if you dare, especially since these fashion-forward sport coats work as well with jeans and fivepocket pants as they do with dress trousers.

Only if you’re comfortable in it. The more important factor is that the suit should fit: anything too baggy or long is definitely out of style. Some general rules: shoulders should reflect your natural shoulder stance, sleeves should allow a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff showing, buttons on the coat shouldn’t pull, pants (whether flatfront or pleated) should feel comfortable, without ripples but without excess fabric. Trouser length should skim the top of your shoe, but a slight break is also acceptable. Fortunately, today’s suits in new performance fabrics enhance both fit and comfort. Let us show you a few exciting options.

There’s a new kind of shirt referred to as a hybrid: somewhere between dress shirt and sport shirt. Often, there’s a button between the traditional first and second button positions, so that even if you’re not wearing a tie, the impression is neater. Look also for sporty details like contrast fabric in the collar and/or sleeve cuff, contrast buttons, or brightly stitched buttonholes that won’t show if you’re wearing a tie. Speaking of new spring ties, why not try a more casual knit, or a seasonal blend with cotton, silk or linen?

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IMAGE COURTESY OF ETON

Q:

SPRING 2017 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM


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A DAY WITH CORY BOND IN NEW YORK CITY


wheels

LIVING THE FANTASY Many a young boy’s fantasy is to someday drive an exotic sports car to its limit, and the supercar star of these dreams is often a Lamborghini. I’m not a young boy, but I finally had the opportunity to make this goal a reality when I spent an incredible morning at Dream Racing, the five-star driving experience at Las Vegas Motor Speedway: the only track where you can get behind the wheel of a real racing Lamborghini, Ferrari or Porsche. I was picked up by the Dream Racing van and taken to their facility at Las Vegas Motor Speedway, known as “The Diamond of the Desert.” After a brief tour I was escorted to a room where a series of simulators give participants an enhanced 3D view of the track. The realism was remarkable and the virtual drive around the track was valuable preparation for getting behind the wheel. I met my personal instructor and he guided me through the twists and turns of the simulator exactly as he would soon do from the literal passenger seat. The next step was to be fitted for a very impressive driving suit and pro-level helmet. As my instructor and I approached the Lamborghini Huracán, I was full of anticipation, wondering what the V10 engine with 610 horsepower would feel like at full revs. The car is equipped with carbon ceramic brakes, so there was no doubt I would be able to slow down should I find myself in trouble. As I got strapped in and observed my surroundings, I felt as if I was entering the cockpit of a jet fighter. Upon firing up the engine, I began to sense the potential of 600plus horsepower. I exited the pits, got on the throttle and felt the

surge of power. As a 4x4, the Huracán took the corners with ease, encouraging me to increase my speed with each lap. My instructor and I were able to communicate clearly through the microphones in our helmets; he pointed out the fastest line through the corners and made other brilliant suggestions as we lapped the course. As we pulled into the pits, I thought it couldn’t get any better. But I didn’t yet know what Dream Racing had in mind for me to drive next. We were then met by Dream Racing president Adriano de Micheli and marketing director Steve Jones. They asked me about my prior racing experiences and apparently felt satisfied I would be able to handle the Huracán Super Trofeo Racing Car. (I was scheduled to drive a Ferrari 458, which I was rather looking forward to, but de Micheli was prepared to offer me the ultimate.) As they rolled it in I was astounded and eager to get behind the wheel. I was not disappointed. This is a machine with astonishing power and technology whose sole purpose is to dominate every race car in its class. The vehicle’s 5.2-liter V10 engine produces 612 horsepower at 8,250 RPM. With its 6-speed, 3-disc racing clutch and F1 paddle shift, the car catapults from 0 to 60 in 3 seconds. Its top speed is 205 MPH, but with traction control, ABS and 18” Pirelli P Zero racing slicks, the car still sticks through corners as if it were on rails. For all you boys and girls who dream of Supercars, the fantasy can be realized at Dream Racing in Las Vegas. (So keep feeding that piggy bank.)

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IMAGES COURTESY OF DREAM RACING

A racing experience straight out of your wildest dreams. BY DAVID A. ROSE



profile

Master of Giorgio Canali

Style

On what it takes to be the best. Would you share a brief background of the company?

Canali was founded near Milan in 1934 by two brothers, Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. The decades that have passed have seen the arrival of new generations, new energy and new vision for the company, but through all this, we’ve maintained our dedication and passion for our work. Today Canali is an undisputed international leader in tailor-made luxury with our own centers of production (all in Italy), more than 1,800 employees, 250 boutiques, and over 1,000 retail stores in more than 100 countries.

Did you always know you’d work in the family business? Not exactly, but it became sort of natural. Growing up in the company and being constantly exposed to various aspects of the business, I developed a growing interest.

What are the joys and headaches? The joys and headaches reflect the pride and, at the same time, the responsibility of working in a company that bears your name. A business that your own family created and built gives you much motivation, but also a fair amount of pressure.

Who has been your mentor or role model? Definitely my father: he has transferred to me his passion and dedication. What’s more, he taught me respect for other people’s work and their efforts, and to always remember our responsibility towards the talented artisans who work here.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

expert tailors on an internal canvas structure, guaranteeing a more comfortable, durable and elegant garment. We take pride in using fabrics that represent the very best of local Italian mills; we work closely with them to design patterns and colors and blends so that the majority of our fabrics are exclusive.

There has been much talk about fit in recent seasons: can suits get any slimmer? It’s not a question of slim or not, it’s more about a focus on freedom and spontaneity. Men expect their clothing to be elegant, comfortable and in synch with today’s lifestyle. A slimmer silhouette often gives a guy a more youthful, tailored look. Elegance lies in the right balance of numerous components, not on any extreme.

How do we get American men to dress more Italian? If a man isn’t comfortable in what he’s wearing, he can never be elegant. That said, the secret to an ‘Italian look’ is sprezzatura—a term first made popular by Baldassare Castiglione in his 16th-century handbook The Book of the Courtier. He used it to express the uniquely Italian art of making things look effortless. A key element in Italian style is that an outfit never look forced, uncomfortable or unnatural. Anyone can achieve this by wearing garments that combine fine fabrics, expert cutting and beautiful design, all intrinsic to a Canali suit.

Can you talk about Su Misura? Canali’s Su Misura is the highest expression of the Canali experience, elevating the excellence of Canali craftsmanship to a new level. Our customers love the personalized and unique experience, where our experts analyze the specifications of your physique and then translate this information into a perfect suit incorporating the characteristics of comfort and elegance that are the hallmarks of our tailoring.

What differentiates a Canali suit from the competition?

How would you describe your personal style?

The secret to a Canali suit lies in its construction. We are proud to craft our garments according to time-honored sartorial tradition. Our suits are built by

I would define it as discrete elegance, updated but with a nod to classic. On weekends, I enjoy wearing sophisticated sportswear, but I often add a sport coat and dressy shoes.

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profile

the

Bottoms

GERMAN BRAND BRAX IS QUICKLY BECOMING THE AMERICAN MAN’S GO-TO FOR PANTS. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

line

Sure, every man needs a great-looking blazer, a soft cashmere sweater and a well-tailored shirt, both to gain attention and feel put-together. However, without comfortable, well-fitting pants to complete the look, you’ve only won half the battle. So it shouldn’t be surprising that bottoms from German-based Brax, a company with over a century of experience, have become many men’s go-to since recently being introduced in America. Men have quickly grown to appreciate the brand’s durability, comfort, performance and consistency in fit (not to mention the fact that it offers a broad range of waist sizes). “What’s so great about these pants is that they’re dressy enough to go with a sport jacket, but casual enough to become what we call an anchor bottom,” says Russ Fearon, president of Throat Threads Apparel, the U.S. distributor of Brax. “The modern aesthetic, soft luxurious feel and stretch comfort create phenomenal value for the sophisticated-casual consumer.” Above all, though, Brax has become valued for its versatility. “American men have found they have a need for a more dressy pair of pants in their wardrobe than jeans, something they can wear to the office and then to a business dinner or a nice restaurant,” Fearon explains. As he points out, the pants’ fabric is a key selling point for Brax. “The Germans have been using the finest Italian and German weaving mills for their products for more than 100 years,” Fearon continues. “All the fabrics are exclusive to Brax, and we work with them closely to create something that is highly engineered, with a luxury feel, yet at a great price point for the American consumer.” (Most Brax pants retail for $189 to $249.) In addition, Brax pants are washable, and many men appreciate that convenience. “I think Brax has carved out a space all its own: a pant that is perfectly positioned between sophistication and leisure,” says Fearon. “And the one thing I know for certain is that whenever a new customer puts on a pair of Brax for the first time, they immediately say, ‘Wow!’”

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man of style

SOLE SEARCHING MICHAEL ARMSTRONG, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT NYC’S DREAM DOWNTOWN BODEGA NEGRA RESTAURANT AND SELF-PROCLAIMED SNEAKERHEAD, ON FOOD, FASHION AND FEET. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN How did you first become interested in food?

Growing up in the Michael Jordan era, I ran track and cross country so I had lots of Air Jordans. When I moved to NYC, I started collecting sneakers, especially retro-inspired styles. I have about 200 pairs now—Nike, Adidas, Reebok, Asics, New Balance and many others… My favorites: black/royal Air Jordans from 2001 that I bought a few years ago for $500 and blue Air Jordan 2s that I just donated to a gallery in Chicago. They sold at $1,500.

I always cooked for my family in Seattle starting at age 12 or 13. It just came naturally to me so I ended up in culinary school in Portland, where I then worked for a year or two. I moved to NYC on a whim; when the exec chef I was working with moved to Tao in Vegas, he called me to be his sous-chef. Bodega Negra is owned by Tao. The original is in London and we’ve recreated several of their signature dishes: quesadilla rustica, tuna ceviche, softshell crab tacos…

What other shoes do you wear?

Could you articulate the food/fashion connection?

Any advice to a guy looking to buy sneakers?

It’s a symbiotic relationship. Dining out is more than just good food: it’s dressing up, it’s see and be seen, it’s a mood and an energy. These days, the trend is away from fine dining toward a more fun casual experience— in both food and fashion. A suit and tie is great, but not mandatory. It’s often about cool streetwear and the right sneakers. It’s about handcrafted food and artisan cocktails in a fun, relaxed, comfortable setting.

Buy what you love, don’t worry about trends. It’s about how you rock it. It’s about confidence. A lot of designer companies are now creating high-end dressier sneakers that don’t look like basketball shoes. I really like them but I don’t own them. It’s not my personal style. (Although I wouldn’t mind trying some Saint Laurent high-tops…)

From where comes your passion for sneakers?

Could you tell us about a recent recipe you’ve created?

Like much of my generation, I’ve always loved street style, rap music, the hip-hop lifestyle. (And New York City embodies it all!)

We partnered with The Foundation and Under Armour to launch Steph Curry’s new sneaker. The featured dish: red curry chicken…

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Most chefs wear clogs, but I wear only sneakers. I don’t even own dress shoes (but I do own one pair of cowboy boots). I work on my feet 70 hours a week so I need comfort, support and slipresistance. I wore Air Force Ones to my wedding (after tailoring the suit to showcase the sneakers). I gave custom Nike 10s as gifts to my groomsmen.


HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC.


SLEEK LEATHER TRAINERS ARE A GREAT COMPLEMENT TO FIVE-POCKET PANTS. With a lightweight jacket and cool cotton shirt, this will become your go-to spring look.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER. FASHION DIRECTION BY MICHAEL FUSCO. STYLING ASSISTANCE BY LEAH SNOW.

PETER MILLAR OUTERWEAR, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHIRT, PETER MILLAR PANT, W. KLEINBERG BELT, SHINOLA WATCH, MAGNANNI SNEAKER

SN GettingE A KY


Kick your career into high gear with a fresh take on business casual. CRISP WHITE SNEAKERS AND A FITTED

BOGLIOLI SUIT, ZEGNA SHIRT, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SNEAKER

KNIT SHIRT KEEP YOUR SUMMER SUIT SPORTY AND CHIC.


Top with a perfect polo and structured sport coat for a look that can take you from work to weekend.

ROBERT TALBOTT SPORT COAT, FAHERTY POLO, W. KLEINBERG BELT, KENTON MICHAEL BRACELET, JOES JEANS DENIM, LANVIN SNEAKER

THE CLASSIC JEANS AND SNEAKERS COMBO GETS A STYLISH UPGRADE WITH SUEDE.


ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA OUTERWEAR, FAHERTY POLO, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI JOGGER, SHINOLA WATCH, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SNEAKER

STEP OUT OF THE GYM AND INTO THE PAGES OF GQ WITH SOFT, SLIM JOGGERS AND STYLISH SLIP-ONS. A half-tucked tee and performance outerwear keep things from getting sloppy.


ISAIA SPORT COAT POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER ISAIA SPORT COAT ANDAND POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER

When dressing up your shorts, trade the tired WHEN DRESSING UP YOUR SHORTS, DITCH THE sneakers. LOAFERS AND LET loafer look for burnished leather There’s no better way BURNISHED SNEAKERS THERE’S NOLEATHER BETTER WAY TO KEEPSUBIT IN. COOL, COMFORTABLE AND CLASSY. to keep it cool, comfortable and classy.


Sneaker

STYLES

FROM T OP: DONALD J. PLINER Clark Sneaker MAGNANNI Cristian Sneaker ELEVENTY Tri-Color Sneaker


INSIDER PICKS

The best places to eat, drink, party (and recover) in this world fashion capital. BY MARIO BISIO When I’m in Milan twice a year on buying trips, I have a few favorite restaurants. For lunch, I love Bagutta. Known as “the trattoria of trattorias,” it’s a fun place with colorful art and wonderful food. I usually order a salad and a pasta. My favorite is the simplest: pasta pomodoro that’s out of this world. Another good lunch option: the cantina in the Kiton Palazzo, the Milan headquarters for this esteemed clothing company. Their mozzarella arrives fresh every day by train from Naples. You cannot find anything more delicious than caprese salad with the best mozzarella, the freshest tomatoes, the purest olive oil… While it’s open only to industry insiders, I invite our customers to join us anytime! For dinner, I love Da Ilia. I go for their incredible risotto, their perfect veal Milanese, their special ensalata tropical and any of their homemade pastas. For fish, I choose La Risacca 6. Both the

raw fish and the cooked dishes are simply prepared from the freshest seafood in Milan! I also can’t resist their spaghetti vongole—molto buono! Of course, one must make time for cocktails. Be sure to check out the bar at the Diana Majestic Hotel. It’s behind the curtains, and super cool. For amazing views to go with your cocktails and tapas, try the Radio Rooftop: it’s the best place to contemplate Milan’s skyline and take in the energy of the city. My favorite hotel is the Principe di Savoia: it’s an old hotel with an amazing history that’s been the place to stay for cosmopolitan society since the 1920s. There’s also a fabulous workout facility on the rooftop level. It’s not inexpensive, but I’ve been going there for so long that it feels like home. Of course the main activity in Milan is fashion, and the best way to absorb it is over a cappuccino or an aperitivo. Just sit,

sip and stare as the bestdressed people in the world pass by. As for shopping, you can find fabulous inspiration in the Corso Como neighborhood. I suggest you take notes in Milan but save the actual purchasing for when you get back home, just in case you need to make a return! Finally, to lift your spirits, be sure to visit the Duomo. Go in the daytime when there’s sunlight and absorb the immense power of this magnificent structure. Its majesty and spirituality are truly life-affirming.

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FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK/ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG, LA RICASSA 6, LA RICASSA 6, SHERATON DIANA MAJESTIC, RISTORANTE DA ILIA, SHUTTERSTOCK/MURATART

destinations

Milan:



sports

ALAN ARLT WANTS TO BRING OUT THE CARMELO ANTHONY IN ALL OF US. BY DANIEL A. GROSSMAN

PLAYING WITH PASSION

What life lessons can young people learn from basketball?

he idea for Ultimate Hoops, a recreational basketball league where each player is treated like a professional, came from Alan Arlt’s personal passion for the sport. He founded the league in 2006; in 2008 he sold it to Lifetime Fitness and in 2014 introduced training products. It is currently in 24 markets, making it the largest recreational b-ball league in the country. Here, we speak to Arlt about his dream.

I think two key values are determination and commitment. Our goal at Ultimate Hoops is to reinforce a “never retire” attitude and state of mind. It’s unfortunate that 70 percent of basketball players quit by age 13 and never play again. We believe it’s critical to keep players playing in order to maintain their lifelong passion for the game. A passion for basketball often leads to a passion for other positive pursuits in life.

What is your mission for Ultimate Hoops? To instill passion and values, and improve basketball culture for the average fan. This includes creating stats and power rankings for each player.

What in your personal background inspired this dream? I was born and raised in Minnesota, then moved to NY in my 20s. I grew up a Knicks fan, but the players who most influenced me include Larry Bird, Magic Johnson and Dennis Rodman (on the Pistons). I’m a big fan of Rodman for his heart and passion for the game. (I was never a Michael Jordan fan as he was the bitter archrival to my beloved Knicks.)

Who are the best NBA players today? The best role models? In my opinion, the best players are LeBron James, Steph Curry, Klay Thompson and Carmelo Anthony. I’d have to say Anthony is also among the best role models for his vocal stance on social issues. Also in the role model category: Curry, Durant, Westbrook and Maya Moore (WNBA). All have core values similar to those at Ultimate Hoops.

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What are the most exciting things going on at Ultimate Hoops? In January 2016, we signed a partnership with NBRPA (National Basketball Retired Players Association). Our goal is to keep retired players involved in the game through speaking, training and other appearances. This past fall, we organized a media game at Sky Club in NYC featuring Carmelo Anthony and other retired NBA players. In 2017 we’re sponsoring an Ultimate Tour featuring athletes with core values that reflect ours. We continue to be involved in numerous national corporate and red carpet events with models wearing basketball gear. We’re also involved with the Maya Moore/Ricky Rubio Academy. Moore has sponsored this all-day academy for three years and is actively involved with the campers there.



FOR ONE OF THE BEST FREE ART SHOWS IN THE WORLD, ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS LOOK UP. BY SHIRA LEVINE

hile strolling the industrial-hip streets of Oahu's Kaka'ako District in search of a cup of coffee, I come upon a familiar face and stop in my tracks. Before me is a portrait of a man, classic but for the fact that the magnificent painting stretches across the entire facade of a building on the unassuming corner of Ward Avenue and Kapiolani. I learn later that it’s titled Hapa, which in Hawaiian means “part” and refers to anyone with a mixed ethnic background. The artist, Kamea Hadar, is an Israeli/Japanese painter raised in Hawaii and schooled in Paris at the Sorbonne. The hapa man is President Barack Obama (who went to high school just three miles from this very location). "President Obama is a symbol of someone who is hapa; he represents the philosophy and the beauty of not only being mixed race, but promoting racial equality," says Hadar, also a co-creator of the annual international public art event Pow!Wow! “Public art is as important as a project that hangs in a museum for hundreds of years. Art can be impermanent and still important. We don’t need to hold on to it forever. The sun damages public art; it fades. When people realize that they start to pay attention.” Corporate, government and nonprofit-sponsored urban frescoes are frequently commissioned to fine artists. Post-industrial cities like Detroit, Baltimore and Pittsburgh are home to murals spon-

From top: Mural by Os Gemeos on the Bowery in NYC. LA street scene. Artwork in Valparaíso, Chile.

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IMAGES BY SHIRA LEVINE

art

OUTDOOR RENAISSANCE

sored by banks and retail chains aiming to brighten neighborhood blight through local art and culture. Not that the clandestine installation of self-expression has ceased. The work of Shepard Fairey and Brazilian twins Os Gemeos couldn’t be so commonly appreciated without the (in their time) renegade installations by Keith Haring, Kobra and JR, who then paved the way for Swoon and Banksy. Commissioned or not, art in public spaces often challenges, enlightens and reflects counterculture ideas and emotions, giving voice to the ignored, illustrating history and tradition, and inspiring conversation among community members and tourists alike. “Works that exist outside the traditional museum context are no longer precious, contained, bound by the space of the museum or the physicality of the frame,” says Lizy Dastin of the Mural Conservancy of Los Angeles. “They become a natural extension of everyday life, rather than a cultural break from it. This physical accessibility regarding space is attractive. Street art is becoming more participatory. The artists themselves are accessible on social media, giving viewers the opportunity to engage with them directly.” Our favorite destinations for haute graffiti? New York City never disappoints. Urban art aficionados also treasure Philadelphia, the birthplace of outdoor expression. San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New Orleans, Seattle, DC and Austin are also home to some spectacular curbside fine art—worthy of attention beyond an Instagram selfie, and free to discover solo, with the help of an app, or, in some communities, on guided walking and biking tours.


GOOD. BETTER. PERFETTO. A DEMANDING SCHEDULE REQUIRES TROUSERS THAT PERFORM PERFETTO FROM HILTL MEANS ALL DAY COMFORT AND ALL DAY PERFECT SHAPE. AVAILABLE IN COTTON, WOOL & DENIM


AT YOUR SERVICE

CLOSET CLEANING

EXPERTISE

COFFEE & WATER BAR

In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer a complimentary closet consultation. One of our associates will visit your home to inventory your closet and offer suggestions on how to mix and match new items with your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or readjustments that you may need.

Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising you on all clothing and accessory matters. From trends to tailoring, we want to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one.

In the hectic world in which we live, many simple pleasures are lost. Sometimes a hot cup of coffee or a friendly, familiar face is the best comfort for the soul. We’re happy to provide both, and more.

BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need attention, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, at no charge. We want you looking your best, down to the last detail.

Upon cleaning your closet, you may have unwanted items. Should this be the case, we can coordinate a donation to a local charity and make the delivery for you.

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your mind while you shop.

GIFT CERTIFICATES A Larrimor’s gift certificate is the gift that always fits! Our gift certificates are available for purchase, in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call and we’ll wrap the gift certificate and ship it to the recipient for you!

FAMILY FRIENDLY As a family business, we feel that it is essential to create a shopping experience that can be enjoyed by the whole family. At Larrimor’s, we provide interactive play areas so that your time with us can be more relaxed, and your children can still have fun.

HOME DELIVERY We understand your busy schedule and want to do all we can to lessen the demands on your time. This is why we provide local delivery to your home or office, or we can ship anywhere in the United States.

COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all regularly priced clothing. Down to the detail of every stitch, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our on-site team of world-class tailors is here to give you the perfect fit.


SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable associates who help and guide you. COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.

RETURN POLICY We have a liberal return policy, where you can bring your purchases back if you are not satisfied with them within a reasonable period of time. We want to make sure you love your new items when you get home as much as you do in the store.

ABUNDANT PARKING To ensure your shopping experience is as stress-free as possible, we provide you with ample validated parking that is both convenient and secure—a real luxury in downtown Pittsburgh.

You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know. Shop online at Larrimors.com.

STORE TO DOOR

BY APPOINTMENT

When it comes to making sure you look your finest, Larrimor’s is ready to go the extra mile. One phone call is all it takes to bring one of our expert sales associates to your home or office—at your convenience, and at no extra cost.

Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will preselect a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, and place the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future.

Individual or group appointments are available. To schedule, call us at 412.471.5727 or email TMichael@Larrimors.com.

LARRIMOR’S ONE PNC PLAZA 249 5TH AVENUE (AT 5TH AVE & WOOD ST)

412.471.5727 LARRIMORS.com


end page

WHY CLOTHES MATTER Musings on the art of dressing. BY JARROD WEBER

n my life, clothing has always been a family affair. My earliest memories of fashion date back to my mom encouraging me to select my own outfits when I was six years old. I didn’t realize it then, but this was the beginning of my addiction to clothing. Or more accurately, to the importance of wearing the right clothes. Even at that young age, matching items in my limited wardrobe felt like a huge responsibility. Although I tried to get my mom to help—“Mommy, which sneakers go with this sweatsuit?”—her response was always, “Which do you like?” Years later, when I was in law school, Weber, right, with a female friend was praising my fashion his dad, a fashion executive. sensibility to a group of students. One of the students remembered me from high school as “the guy who would tuck his flannel shirts into his sweatpants!” My father is a successful fashion industry exec who has headed big companies like PVH and LVMH. One of his maxims is that how you package yourself is as important as how you package your products. How you dress is one component of this; how you speak, how you treat people and how you think are other factors relevant to success, in business and in life. But clearly, your style says a lot about who you are. Your ability to put yourself together tells a story. Are you neat or sloppy? Modern or traditional? Creative or conformist? All these cues send a signal. Clothes tell your story before you even open your mouth. Is this fair? Nope, but it’s reality. Or as my father would say, “Fair is for kids.” I, for one, believe in suits. I believe in dressing up, in looking the part. I practiced law for almost nine years at a firm whose dress code

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was “business casual unless seeing clients.” Unfortunately, few guys have a real handle on business casual, and it was embarrassing how some of these educated lawyers would come to work. My father always taught me that there’s no substitute for good taste. I have learned that in a business environment, it pays to always look your best. These are not your friends, they are associates and, like it or not, you’re competing. The senior-most people at the firm set the example, and they always looked professional, even on days with no client contact. Bottom line, it never hurts to look your best at all times. And I believe that most men look their best—most professional, most in control— when wearing a suit. Think of a general in the military, or a pilot: the uniform paints a picture of competence and strength. In the military there are precise rules for how to dress: not a single button can be out of place or a lapel creased. These rules are there for a reason: to create an image of order and respect. I’ve recently given up law for a career in fashion, where my style consciousness serves me well. Although creative casual is acceptable, you’ll always find me wearing a suit, and almost always with a tie. Ties are no longer mandatory these days, even in fine restaurants, but they’re a great way to complete an outfit and add a note of distinction and personality. I sometimes wonder whether, in my designer suits and ties, some people might consider my style a bit too perfect, too contrived, too planned out when in fact, I’m just a guy who appreciates nice clothes. Be that as it may, let’s all take the time to appreciate the person inside the clothing: the substance behind the style. For that, I have learned, is what truly matters.


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LARRIMOR’S FORUM SS 2017


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