Larrimor's

Larrimor’s HOW TO Forum/The Substance of Style/SS 2016

DRESS NOW

PALM SPRINGS

DESERT DELIGHT

SPECIAL GOLF SECTION

FEATURING BRANDT SNEDEKER

LARRIMOR’S One PNC Plaza 249 Fifth Avenue, Pittsburgh 412-471-5727 Larrimors.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNER

Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell

FEATURES

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

28 Results Driven: Heritage Community Initiatives Event 30 Think Smarter: RAND Corporation 36 High-Heeled Statement Pieces 48 Profile: Hickey Freeman 50 Profile: Samuelsohn 80 Style: Normal to the Core

John Frascone

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

FASHION 11 Elevated Style 52 Making a Scene With Style 58 Upgrade Now!

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

DEPARTMENTS 38 40 44 74 78

Ask Lisa Ask Forum The Fashion Forum Designers: Work It At Your Service

Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

SPECIAL SECTION:

GOLF

64 Players: Brandt Snedeker 66 Resorts: Sea Island Dreaming 70 History: Style Evolution

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2016. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 19, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

LORO PIANA “EXTREME” PERFORMANCE FABRIC

The Art of Tailoring

SJ K .C OM

HENNE 速 SHADYSIDE HenneJewelers.com | 412-682-0226

bigBURRITO.com

ELEVATED STYLE

By Lisa Slesinger Photography by Joanna Totolici Shot on location at The Park at PNC Tower

E TR O

E S C A D A , M A R G O M O RRISON EARRING

S T. J OH N

F U Z Z I , H E L E N KAM INSKI HAT

FUZZI , LA N A E A R R I N G

SANTORELLI, AUTUMN CASHMERE

LAFAYETTE 148 NEW YORK, DI ANE COTTON NECKLAC E, C AR LOS FA LC H I C LU TC H

S U N KIM , G IL L IA N JU L IU S BRACEL ET, SI M ON S EBB AG R I NG

GR EY STATE , GI LLI AN J U LI U S B R A C E LE T

E I L E E N F I S H E R , M A R GO M ORRISON NECKL ACE

PASHMA, J BR AND JEANS, GI LLI AN J U LI U S B R A C E LE T

V I N C E , J B R A ND JE A NS , GIL L IA N JU L IU S BRACEL ET

LI SA TODD, AG JEANS, H ELEN K A MI N S K I FE D OR A

V I N C E , A G JE ANS , M OO ROO CU F F

BAR B OUR, MAJESTI C TOP, AG J EAN S, MZ WA LLA C E B A G

ESCADA.COM

RESULTS DRIVEN On October 8, Larrimor’s hosted an evening filled with exotic cars and excellent company in support of Heritage Community Initiatives, an organization known for driving results for the thousands of families they serve. Chef Anthony from Don’s Appliances served fine food and demonstrated how to prepare great food at home. Special thanks goes to BPU Investment Managment Inc. and Auto Palace Porsche. See more photos online at Larrimors.com/in-print/news/results-driven.

Don’t miss out on exciting future events! Give your email address to your sales associate and we’ll be certain to add you to our VIP invitation list.

PHOTOS: ARCHIE CARPENTER

Member FINRA/SIPC A registered investment advisor

Think Smarter

A NON-PARTISAN THINK TANK AND ITS POLICY CIRCLE MAKE AN IMPACT IN PITTSBURGH.

BY LAUREN MICHAEL

“We are not trying to be centrist, we are trying to be non-partisan and to constantly introduce perspectives that are based on what the data says.” —Susan Everingham but also to invest in the community in which they live—for this dedicated focus. RAND’s Pittsburgh office has worked diligently on questions ranging from the quality of public education and the impact of Marcellus Shale to storm water management and the resiliency of the city in response to its evolving environment and infrastructure.

PHOTO: ARCHIE CARPENTER

F

or those who do not know, but should, RAND Corporation (Research ANd Development) is a research organization developing solutions to public policy challenges that help make communities throughout the world safer, healthier and more prosperous. RAND is non-profit, nonpartisan and committed to the public interest.

How fortunate we are to have them in our city.

The mission of RAND, according to Susan Everingham, is “to become the world’s trusted provider for policy ideas and policy research, to be working on the most important policy problems that exist, and to be generating information, ideas and analysis that help policymakers make better decisions.” And, while the think tank does research across policy topics ranging from health to defense, education, environment and more, the Pittsburgh office is also amassing a diverse portfolio of Pittsburghcentric public research.

As director of RAND’s Pittsburgh office, Everingham gives credit to the researchers—a diverse group of analysts and professionals who not only chose to live to Pittsburgh,

Susan Everingham, director of RAND Corporation’s Pittsburgh office.

As an organization, RAND combats the potential divisiveness of partisanship and politics with an objective, unbiased approach to research and policy analysis. The organization does not “align with any political party or particular part of an ideological spectrum,” says Everingham.

Moreover, she emphatically explains, “We won’t take a project if someone wants us to find a particular answer. We can’t take those projects. We refuse them. Our clients have to let us publish our results regardless of whether they like the answer or not.”

There are times when clients do not like the research findings; even so, Everingham holds firm to RAND’s mission. “We will not suppress the work because the answer isn’t what they originally thought it would be. But in terms of the partisan divide, we aim to produce and introduce objective, fact-based information that allows people on different sides of the debate to agree on a set of facts that have very strong evidence behind them.”

The essential role of RAND is to Continued next page.

put evidence-based facts on the table to drive stakeholder dialogue and action. To be clear, Everingham explains, “We are not trying to be centrist, we are trying to be non-partisan and to constantly introduce perspectives that are based on what the data says.”

The RAND Policy Circle is a community of philanthropic individuals who are committed to supporting the non-partisan analysis and smarter decision making needed to make our world safer and more prosperous. Special events and off-the-record sessions provide RAND Policy Circle members exclusive opportunities to engage with RAND leadership, researchers and policymakers working on present and future challenges of local interest as well as timely and complex issues from around the world. Recently, Policy Circle members were invited to participate on a “Call with the Experts” to discuss the Paris terror attacks and how to confront ISIS. (Visit rand.org/giving/policy_circle.html to learn more about how you can join.)

“Can you tell that I love this?” Everingham asks with a smile. “The world needs this. There are a few other places like RAND, but most think tanks are associated with different ideologies or political parties. We do something vastly different, which is to come at the problem from a completely non-ideological point of view and ask: ‘What would be the right analysis to help us understand what’s going on, what data is available and, most important, what can we learn from it?’”

To learn more about RAND Corporation visit rand.org or contact Tamara Keough at tkeough@rand.org. Follow them on Facebook and Twitter, and find all policy updates on the website.

RAND

BY THE NUMBERS

Getting to Know Susan Everingham

1

On my must-read list is… our RAND Review magazine. It keeps me up-to-speed on key policy areas, and is filled with objective analysis and effective solutions. For policy news from a non-U.S. perspective, I am a big consumer of The Economist.

2

You’ll often find me dining at… Lucca (in Oakland). But I’m also a big fan of Casbah… and addicted to Panera too!

3

On the weekends it’s… time to leash up the dog, find some trails, and go for a long hike.

4

I’m never without… my Blackberry. I carry it everywhere for immediate access to office news and to RAND’s twitter feed: @RANDCorporation.

5

When I need to escape… I like to take long car trips. I have lots of camping gear, so I throw the gear in the car and drive far. This summer, as I was bringing my kids to college, we drove down through Memphis. It’s always cool to be reminded about how vast our country is…

6

My current obsession is… Showtime’s Homeland, Season 4!

7

At my house you can always expect… to see my dog, Dexy. She is always there, and is very friendly and energetic.

75K+ 350

46

Clients & Grantors

Countries

From RAND’s 2014 Annual Report

With locations in North America, Europe and Australia, RAND attracts talent from almost four dozen nations.

630

57

%

Twitter Followers

71

New Projects

Hold Doctorates

Languages

Through more than 1,700 projects (including more than 630 new ones), RAND provides research services, analysis and innovative thinking to a global clientele.

Well over half of RAND’s research staff of ~850 hold one or more doctorates— and another 34% hold one or more master’s degrees.

Much of RAND’s staff is multilingual.

Lanuages spoken include Arabic, Chinese, Farsi, French, German, Japanese, Korean, Russian and Spanish.

RAND performed work for more than 350 clients and grantors, including government agencies, international organizations and foundations.

6.8M Web Downloads

ONE OF A KIND

M A D E W I T H YO U R STO N E S O R O U R S

5413 Walnut Street, Shadyside | Pittsburgh | 412.621.0345 | caesarsdesigns.com Mt. Lebanon by appointment only 733 Washington Road, Suite 101

A LITTLE FINER A LOT MORE CAREFUL For your designer clothing you need the

DESIGNER CLEANER We specialize in cleaning Chanel, Etro, Escada, and St. John’s Bridal Gown Preservation Pick up & Delivery Blue Ribbon Service

4449 Ohio River Boulevard 412.761.4054

®/TM ©2016 Jenn-Air. All rights ®/TM reserved. ©2016 Jenn-Air. All rights reserved.

EXCELLENCE IN EVERY DETAIL. Inside the kitchen and beyond, Jenn-Air® appliances combine iconic style and precision craftsmanship with versatile design options that satisfy the sophisticated palate.

Available at six locations or at donsappliances.com

High-Heeled Statement Pieces EXPLORING FASHION’S MOST PROVOCATIVE ACCESSORY.

BY JOANNE HARROP

It’s an exhibition that explores fashion's most provocative accessory, from the high-platform chopines of 16th-century Italy to the glamorous stilettos seen on today's runways and red carpets. More than 160 historical and contemporary heels are on loan from designers, the renowned Brooklyn Museum costume collection housed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, and the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto.

Killer Heels (as well as other fashion exhibitions) has been well received, and has created a lot of buzz, says Frick museum director Robin Nicholson.

“High heels are art and can be conversation pieces,” Nicholson says. “And they aren't necessarily the easiest

accessory to wear. When we have someone like Lady Gaga who tests the boundaries of high heels… people notice and talk about it.”

As fashion statement, fetish object, instrument of power and outlet of artistic expression for both the designer and the wearer, throughout the ages the high-heeled shoe has gone through many shifts in style and symbolism.

Sarah Hall, director of curatorial affairs for the Frick, says the museum has always offered such interesting and different exhibits.

“It’s a beautiful installation,” Hall says. “There is a fascination with high heels. These shoes are experiments in design. There will be something to strike everyone’s fancy.”

“When we have someone like Lady Gaga who tests the boundaries of high heels… people notice and talk about it.”

—Robin Nicholson, director, Frick Art & Historical Center

There will be a gala on June 9, 2016 at the museum to celebrate the opening of the exhibition. Honorary chair is Pittsburgh native Billy Porter, who received a Tony Award in 2013 for Best Actor in a Musical for his role as Lola in Kinky Boots. For details visit thefrickpittsburgh.org.

To read the entire story and to view more heels, visit Larrimors.com/in-print/news/killer-heels.

IMAGES COURTESY OF APERLAÏ, WALTER STEIGER, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN

These shoes are made for talking, not walking.

From steep stilettos to thigh-high boots, what a woman wears on her feet can make a statement.

There will be lots said about this footwear created not to be worn, but admired. Encased in glass or displayed on a pedestal, these shoes and boots will certainly be hot topics. Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe is coming to the Frick Art & Historical Center, Point Breeze from June 11 to September 4.

“This exhibition is a combination of history and fashion,” says Libby Doss, development manager Frick Art & Historical Center. “These shoes are considered art and not just pairs of shoes. Killer Heels incorporates facets of art, history, architecture and engineering.”

EXPERIENCE SPA JEMA

SWEDISH MASSAGE DEEP TISSUE MASSAGE MATERNITY MASSAGE COUPLES MASSAGE HOT STONE THERAPY REFLEXOLOGY BODY SCRUBS & WRAPS CUSTOM FACIALS WAXING MANICURES PEDICURES BRIDAL & CORPORATE PARTIES WELCOME 117 FIRST AVENUE, NEAR STANWIX • JENNIFER BLODGETT, OWNER • 412.281.3336 • SPAJEMA.COM

askLISA Q:

YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED

Q:

What are the hot colors for spring/summer 2016?

The Pantone Color Institute named light pink

How can I try out some of the trends of the season without blowing my budget on fad fashions?

“Rose Quartz” and baby blue “Serenity” as the col-

We strive to offer clothing and accessories that will

ors of 2016. You’re not alone if you’re wary of wear-

be with you for more than one season. Experiment

ing them, but these shades, along with other pale

with a fleeting trend, like the ’70s throwback styles

hues like mint and lavender, can infuse your look

we’ve been seeing, through details. Instead of wearing fringe in a big way (which you might

with a soft, nostalgic feel.

enjoy for a short time but quickly tire of),

When choosing one of these sweet treats, remember that structure is key. Look for streamlined styles

check out our AG ankle-length skinny

and ground pastel pieces with white or gray elsewhere in

jeans with a tastefully fringed hem.

your outfit. Consider the material: if eyelet brings to mind

They’re great because they don’t wear the

your first baby bonnet, try a chambray shirt in a shade of

woman; the woman wears them. That’s

pale hydrangea, or a buttery rose-tone leather jacket. If you

our litmus test for anything trend driven.

want even more edge, look for statement hardware like zip-

Not only will you avoid spending a ton of

pers or studs.

money on pieces that won’t last, but you won’t be overpowered by your look. Part

That said, you’ll never walk into Larrimor’s and see a

of developing a signature style is know-

sea of blush because that happens to be the hot color

ing what works for you and having the

on the runway; you’ll always find a wide range of options.

confidence to sit out the trends that don’t.

Not comfortable in color at all? You can still add interest to your look by layering neutrals like gray, taupe and cream, sticking to the same shade but varying the textures of each piece.

This high-impact look is all about low-contrast.

In addition, black and white is still hugely important here at

Q:

How can I give my classic white shirt an update?

The white button-up is a go-to staple in many women’s wardrobes. It

Larrimor’s. You’ll see it all over the store and as a theme

adds the right amount of polish to any look and can immediately

throughout our photo shoot beginning on page 11. Every year

transform an outfit from sloppy to chic. However, it’s time the white

black and white shows up in our favorite designer collections,

shirt gets a makeover. This season, it’s refreshed with a punch of per-

and our trick is making it look new and fresh. This season, we

sonality: a ruffle detail to add texture, an asymmetric placket to up

love it on pieces with architectural lines. People tend to equate

the architectural factor, or an off-the-shoulder silhouette to boost

architectural with being harsh or having an unusual shape, but

feminine appeal. If the deconstructed button-up is too bold for your

it can actually be very feminine. Come visit us in the store and

taste, revamp your basic white shirt with a statement necklace. The

let us prove it to you!

pop of color and shine will instantly refresh your look.

38

ask

SPRING 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

I see a lot of my favorite suit brands offering made-to-measure suits and sportcoats. Is it worth the extra time and money?

Q:

Yes! You get to pick the fabrics, the model and the details (linings, buttons, monograms), and the fit is sure to flatter. Depending on the maker, delivery is usually within four to six weeks of getting measured, and we guarantee that this will become your go-to favorite suit! Our suggestion: select a pattern (subtle or bold) rather than a solid, or perhaps a seasonal fabric. If you’re going for special, why not make it really special?

plan on taking several long weekends this Any packing tips for a carry-on bag?

Q: Isummer.

Q:

When is, and isn’t it, appropriate to wear sneakers?

Except for formal occasions and business meetings with conservative clients, it’s almost always okay to wear sneakers, especially contemporary leather or suede styles that look nothing like gym shoes.

Modern sneakers might have contrast soles or colorful laces; they can cost as much as leather shoes and serve as a sort of hybrid between work and play.

They’re certainly comfortable, and add a touch of personality to pants and a sportcoat. That said, while some guys can pull it off, wearing sneakers with a suit takes a certain panache. If you’ve got it, go for it! But if you’re at all uncertain, stick to the updated leather shoes currently on our selling floor.

Modern footwear will elevate your entire wardrobe.

Light and casual are the buzzwords for weekends away. For travel, wear the pieces that take up the most room: long pants (lightweight five-pocket styles are perfect for most occasions), a long-sleeve woven shirt in cotton or linen and either a soft sportcoat or cardigan, depending on your weekend agenda. Then throw the rest into your carry-on—a short-sleeve woven shirt, two short-sleeve polos, two T-shirts, shorts, a swimsuit, underwear—and you’re good to go. If there’s room in your bag for sandals and grooming products, toss them in too. If not, hotels (and considerate hosts) can generally supply shampoo, moisturizer and flip-flops. If you’re a guest in someone’s home, don’t forget to bring a bottle of good wine. (But never pack sparkling wine in your checked bag, as it’s likely to explode. We know from experience!)

If you’re struggling to zip your overstuffed carryon, you need a new travel bag! Come in and let us show you our favorite designs.

40

HAND-CRAFTED IN NEW YORK

S S 16 . B E A N E W G E N T L E M A N .

WEDDINGS & EVENTS

Bella Sera skillfully combines the perfect ambience, exceptional service and incredible food to create the beautiful evening you’ll cherish forever!

the FASHION forum

NEVER TOO LATE FOR A CHANGE We’ve seen a complete changing of the guard in the late-night talk show world, with Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Fallon, James Corden, Seth Myers, Jimmy Kimmel and Trevor Noah among the funnymen now sitting in the interviewers’ chairs. But if the faces have changed, the uniform has remained mostly the same: dark suit, white or blue shirt, boring tie.

While these guys certainly look dapper, one can’t help but feel they could push the sartorial envelope a bit more. Corden is one of the faces of Burberry, so where are the cutting-edge designs and pops of plaid? Fallon recently signed a deal with G-III for licensed athletic wear, so perhaps he’s saving all his creative juices for that collaboration. And would it kill Myers to borrow something more casual and creative from Stefon, his former flame from Saturday Night Live? The time is ripe to start a trend. —BSL

L

ooking at the current high-fashion uses for denim, from threepiece suits to stylish coats, it can be hard to imagine just how utilitarian the cotton fabric was in its earlier days, when it was worn during the California Gold Rush and used to make early 20th-century prison uniforms. That latter usage surprised even fashion historian Emma McClendon, author of the new book Denim: Fashion’s Frontier and curator of the exhibition of the same name at New York City’s Museum at FIT. Still, McClendon admits that denim’s constant permutations really shouldn’t be shocking. “It’s the rare fabric that’s relatively inexpensive to produce, extremely durable, and easy to care for,” she says. —BSL

44

TOP: GETTY IMAGES. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF MUSEUM AT FIT

DURABLE DENIM

The Fashion Forum

THE MAN, THE MYTH Italians are known to be superstitious, none more so than the Neapolitans.

In addition to the distinctive touch Isaia’s red coral pin adds to the brand’s garments, they believe it also brings luck to the wearer. "We still keep the original piece of Isaia red coral, given to me by a friend, in our Milan flagship store,” says Gianluca Isaia. “And every jacket we make comes with a red coral lapel pin to bring good luck to he who wears it.”

The coral motif can also be spotted elsewhere throughout the collection, on buttons, under collars and in stitching.

As Isaia recounts from ancient mythology, Perseus slayed Medusa and delivered her head as a gift to the king of Seriphos, who was to wed his mother. During his travels home, Perseus fell in love with Andromeda, whom he found chained to a rock about to be eaten by the evil sea-monster Cetus. To prove his love and save her life, Perseus killed the terrible beast. As he sat to wash his hands in the sea, Perseus laid down the sack that contained Medusa's head. Her blood dripped into the water and instantly hardened into the form we recognize today as red coral.

Just as the head of Medusa brought luck to Perseus in his battle with Cetus, red coral brings luck to the distinguished man who chooses an Isaia garment. —JL

FASHIONABLE FRIDA Is there anything more to know about Frida Kahlo? The great Mexican artist has been given the filmic treatment by Julie Taymor (and played

by Salma Hayek), and her work has been displayed everywhere from LACMA to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to the New York Botanical Garden. But another side of this groundbreaking woman is explored in Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the Art of Being (Assouline, $195), a new book by journalist Susana Martinez Vidal that was inspired by an exhibition of Kahlo’s own clothing at her home, La Casa Azul.

As Vidal deftly illustrates, Kahlo’s fashion aesthetic is something neither time nor death can diminish. —BSL

STREET SMART

Amsterdam’s Tassenmuseum gives the term “bag lady” a whole new (chic) meaning.

Inside a beautiful canal-side building, you can view hundreds of purses in various shapes, sizes and designs, spanning from the 1500s to the modern-day. This spring, the museum’s Street Couture exhibition (through June 5) offers an enlightening perspective on these accessories as it showcases colorful, playful and inventive bags by such top fashion names as Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Dior, sometimes pairing them with international fashion ranging from Japanese “Lolita” clothing to American hip-hop outfits to illustrate how one influences the other. It’s definitely worth crossing the Atlantic to witness these crossovers! —BSL

46

M

Estiatorio

E Z Z E

Dining Downtown with

B

U Z O

AND

I S T R O

L

W INE B AR

H A M P A G N E

, O

O U N G E

porospgh.com

Brasserie

C

A T I N O

A M B PPG2 MARKET SQUARE

Live Jazz

NEW W ORLLEANS JAZZ Z . NOU UVEAU U CREEOLEE MENU U

L

W EST C OAST K ITCHEN

U E V O

, L

, F I S H

Raw with a Twist

N

Aegean

930 PENN AVENUE seviche.com

947 PENN AVENUE

thesonomagrille.com

24 MARKET SQUARE nolaonthesquare.com

25 MARKET SQUARE perlepgh.com

profile

America’s

Ultimate Luxury Brand

The suit of choice for JFK, Ronald Reagan, Frank Sinatra and other American heroes, Hickey Freeman embraces the future.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Full-canvas clothing made in America of the world’s finest fabrics is a rarity in itself; add in new technology and a modern fashion sensibility and you’ve got something very special indeed.

But it takes a visit to the completely modernized four-story Hickey Freeman factory in Rochester, N.Y. to truly appreciate this fine American clothing brand. Founded in 1899, the factory employs 550 dedicated workers (who speak 23 different languages!).

The production process for a Hickey Freeman suit (180 steps for the coat, 57 for the pant) is a balance of art and science: the company uses all the latest technology but many procedures still require expert hand work. Director of production Sacha Smits notes that since quality canvas clothing is dimensional rather than flat, there are 80 different operations just for pressing and molding. “The coat has a DNA from the beginning: our loose shell has shape even before the chest piece and shoulder pads are inserted.”

Arnold Silverstone, Hickey Freeman’s new creative director and a veteran clothing executive, remembers going to the factory when the company was first purchased by a private investment firm a few years back. “We got on a plane to Rochester to announce the deal to 500-plus factory workers. They’d heard rumors that the company would be sold so they were nervous, assuming that production would be outsourced and they’d lose their jobs. I’ll never forget the joyful look on their faces when we told them that we bought the company because of their talent. Our plan was to invest heavily in the facility, since we firmly believe in American-made luxury clothing.

“Our spring ’16 relaunch features new colors, updated fits, upgraded and lighter canvases and linings, more hand work (e.g. handturned collars) and the finest exclusive fabrics in the world (e.g. Loro Piana Tasmanian and Super 200s). All of this makes Hickey Freeman truly special, the ultimate American luxury brand.”

48

250 years of quality.

Doing ordinary things extraordinarily well. Perfect Pencil with built-in sharpener and eraser.

Handmade in Germany.

profile Samuelsohn:

The Big Reveal

Tailored clothing’s best-kept secret comes out of the closet!

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

These days, as business dress codes remain relaxed, men are choosing to wear fine tailored clothing because they want to, not because they have to. And men in the know are choosing Samuelsohn, an exceptional but low-profile clothing company that’s been crafting beautiful suits in Montreal since 1923.

But low profile no more, new ownership at this Canadian company relaunched the brand in 2011 and business has more than doubled. Much of the credit goes to the company’s new president and chief creative officer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, a talented designer and visionary executive who lives and breathes the clothing business. Upon taking over, he quickly recognized a “diamond in the rough” and immediately updated the label, the logo, the fabrics, the fits, the colors, the buttons, the linings, the marketing and

50

more. What remains constant: Samuelsohn’s commitment to exceptional quality, and the “expression” of its full-canvas handtailored suits that both fit and flatter the wearer.

“I feel like I’ve come full circle,” says Silverstone, a third-generation clothing guy who grew up in his father’s suit factory in Montreal. “I’d always known and respected the Samuelsohn brand, Canada’s quintessential quality suit maker. (My father wore Samuelsohn suits!) As my career moved forward—from my father’s company to launching my own clothing label (that I ultimately sold to Oxford) to becoming design director at Nordstrom—I always dreamed of returning to manufacturing.

When Samuelsohn was bought by Stephen Granovsky in 2010, I was recommended for the job of president, and felt it was exactly where I belonged.” hat makes Samuelsohn clothing so special? Silverstone could go on for hours. “First of all, the suits are a rare combination of modern styling and classic tailoring, featuring fully basted canvas construction and hand-tailored details. Since all garments are produced in our own factory, we control every step of the process. Second, we are known for innovation, e.g. we were the first to come out with luxury performance fabrics that are cool, comfortable and wrinkle resistant; we’ve even developed clothing with carbon fiber! Third, we have the cleanest distribution in the industry: we don’t sell to outlets, only the best specialty stores in North America. Fourth of course is our tremendous intrinsic value: there’s more craftsmanship in a Samuelsohn garment than in most Italian brands that are double the price. (Canada’s duty advantages and exchange rates offer additional value for American customers.) Fifth, our made-tomeasure programs are the best in the industry. Sixth is our company culture: although we’re privately owned, we’re run more like a family business than a large corporation, with emphasis on customer service, personal relationships and employee appreciation.

“I know it sounds counterintuitive, but making money is not our number-one priority; we’re more concerned with providing the best goods at the best value and satisfying our customers so they’ll keep coming back.”

And come back they do! For spring ’16, check out the beautifully tailored Samuelsohn clothing arriving on our selling floor now. For practical types, we love the performance suit in a Loro Piana Storm System fabric with stretch. (It’s waterproof, wrinkle resistant and amazingly comfortable!) Or try the updated luxury travel blazer with 12 pockets and extra zippers. For nights and weekends, there’s an amazing washed cashmere sportcoat. And to make a bold fashion statement, why not a beautifully tailored striped DB suit in a hot shade of blue?

Which is his favorite? “It’s like asking a parent to choose his favorite child,” Silverstone responds. So we’ll let you, our customers, be the judge…

51

PHOTOGRAPHY:SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR:MARCELINO GONZALEZ MAKEUP:CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING:WENDY MCNETT

SCENE WITH STYLE

MAKING a

Lightweight sportcoats with colorful pocket squares and great accessories bring life to the party.

DRESSing FOR A

GOODTIME Bring on the season of fun!

Add style and charisma to spring and summer with bright colors, breathable linens, fun prints and great shades.

for the love of home

WEXFORD 10899 Perry Hwy.

californiaclosets.com 72 4 . 9 3 5 . 70 6 6

LOSE THESE OUTDATED LOOKS AND UPGRADE NOW!

WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE NEW BLUE SUIT Black and charcoal feel too heavy for the warmer months, and the fit of your older suits is likely doing you a disservice.

To show you mean business, choose a blue slim-fit suit that follows the natural slope of your shoulder, nips in at the waist and breaks just slightly at the shoe. This color is less inky than traditional navy but is just as easy to wear. Pair with brown monkstraps and furnishings in seasonal hues.

BIG MEETING

WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE KNIT BLAZER Some guys have taken the “casual� part too far. Stay professional in a linencotton blend sportcoat that keeps you cool under pressure. This versatile knit blazer is unlike anything else in your wardrobe: polished and sophisticated without sacrificing an ounce of comfort. Tailored fivepocket pants are just formal enough, and a dress shirt and knit tie complete the look.

BUSINESS CASUAL

WHAT TO WEAR NOW

THE LUXE POLO

P R O D U C E R / S T Y L I S T: M I C H A E L F U S C O . P H O T O G R A P H E R : E VA N TAY L O R G U N V I L L E . G R O O M E R : A M Y Z D U N O W S K I - R O E D E R . M O D E L : J U S T I N M C M A N U S @ F O R D .

Don’t give your style the day off just because it’s the weekend. Stick with wellfitting jeans or khakis and a trim polo, and don’t forget to accessorize! Wear with a sleeker sneaker or chukka boot—save your running shoes for the gym and flipflops for the beach.

WEEKEND COOL

TO

R EJUV ENATE T HE SO UL

STA RT W I T H

THE BODY.

There are times when seeking out the new and unexpected takes a backseat to the art of rest and relaxation. Unwind with a luxurious spa escape or a round on one of the country’s first 1 Ƅ ƅ ƀ* ƆƋ ż ƃ Ɗ ź ƆƄ $ż Ż Ž Ɔ Ɖ Ż

golf courses. Your retreat awaits.

SPRINGS ETERNAL SPA ∙ BEDFORD, PA

GOLF

A Forum Magazine Special Section

Sea Island Spotlight David Feherty Keeps it Real

Brandt Snedeker

Talks Pop-Style Putting

GETTY 1

Teaching With Robots Golfwear: Then and Now

players

A HIGHLY RANKED PRO GOLFER WITH A UNIQUE PUTTING STROKE, BRANDT SNEDEKER SHARES SOME SECRETS.

BY TERRY C. GROSSMAN

a passion for it so I played all the time and practiced all the time.

You’ve had enormous success with your pop-style putting stroke: why do few other pros use it?

Distinctive

Style

That’s a very good question, and I haven’t the faintest idea. I guess because it’s difficult. It’s something I’ve always done but I suppose it’s hard for others to teach themselves to do it because the way I hit the ball is so counterintuitive. But it’s something I’ve always done so it feels natural to me.

Did others try to dissuade you from putting that way?

Yes, when I was younger they did. As I got better and better, I refined it over the years and made it a little simpler and easier to repeat.

Which course has the toughest greens?

is nickname is Sneds, the Nashvillebased pro golfer with the unusual putting style, and at age 35 he’s one of the best there is. A candid and down-to-earth family man who’s as fun to interview as he is to watch on the course, he and his wife Mandy started a foundation in 2013 that helps underprivileged kids who need a break in life. He’s also known for his charity work to benefit victims of natural disasters, and for his memorable MasterCard commercials in which Tom Watson mispronounces his name. Here, we chat with Sneds about his passion.

What first piqued your interest in golf?

I started playing when I was about six years old and just kind of fell in love with it. My brother and I played a lot growing up; I had

Augusta National. They are so severe and so fast and the margin of error is so small that it’s extremely difficult to be aggressive: because they’re so fast, you have to be defensive.

Some friends from Nashville want to know how you rate the greens at the Hillwood Golf Club, which you play when you’re home.

They re-did them with Bermuda a couple of years ago and they’re extremely fast. They’re difficult to read and they have a bunch of small slopes that are tough to understand. Playing there has definitely contributed to my green reading skills.

Regarding green reading skills, is this something you’re born with or can it be learned?

It’s a bit of both. I think that I was definitely born with an innate ability. But as I played more and more, I refined my green reading over the years by learning to hit the ball consistently at a desired speed. The trick is learning how hard to hit the ball so as to produce the desired speed and to be able to do that consistently until it becomes automatic. If you can’t hit the putt the same way every time, it’s not going to matter how well you read the greens.

64

Can you give us any tricks of the trade? Do you take notes and reference them during the round?

You won $10 million at that FedEx Cup in 2012; would you change that playoff system if you could?

One of the things I love to do before the tournament starts is play in the pro ams and try to read other people’s putts, so I can tell if I’m misreading or if they’re hitting them poorly. This gives me a general idea of what’s going on around the greens. I take notes when there are certain undulations that are tricky or counter to what you’d think. At times, some putts are faster while others are slower than they look. It just comes with experience.

No. Maybe I’d tweak it a little by giving out the points a bit differently, but the tour has done a great job by giving everybody a chance to win. I wouldn’t change much.

Your biggest regret as a touring pro?

I actually changed putters for about two months last year but I’m now back with my old one.

Not having the experience as a 26-year-old to know what’s important and what’s not, what to worry about and what not to… That’s just part of the stuff you learn out here on the tour. This being my ninth year, I’ve kind of figured out what’s important and what’s not. As a 26-year-old, you really have no idea; you’re just trying to figure it out. I wish I could have kicked my younger self in the butt to have figured it out a little sooner.

I used that model for 20 years but now use it to move logs in the fireplace…

How are you feeling these days and what’s your fitness regimen?

Ha! Not what it was designed for, but I use some shafts at home to do different things with so I get what you’re saying...

I had some injuries for a few years but that’s in the past and my body is now feeling great. I have a pretty stringent workout routine, a clearly defined program including an hour and a half a day of stretching and working out… soft tissue stuff to keep my body pliable. Off weeks I do more weight lifting and during the week more stretching and core stuff. Then there’s paying attention to diet, keeping myself hydrated, and I’m good to go.

I read that you changed putters. Think you’ll ever return to your old Odyssey Rossie II?

Who do you consider the best putters of all time?

That’s a tough one. I think Jack Nicklaus was probably one of the best putters of all time just because of the amount of putts he made to win tournaments. And Tiger’s up there too due to the amount of putts he had to make under severe pressure and his ability to make them. Billy Casper and Jackie Burke were also among the best. Out here on the tour right now, I love watching Steve Stricker, or Brad Faxon when he gets out.

How about Crenshaw, who you didn’t mention?

Yes, Ben. We play a practice round together at Augusta every year because I love watching him putt on those greens. I love seeing how he reads them, how he hits them, his stroke… it’s a thing of beauty. It’s so natural and free flowing, which I’d love to be…

Describe your fashion style on and off the course.

“I SUPPOSE IT’S HARD FOR OTHERS TO TEACH THEMSELVES [MY PUTTING STYLE] BECAUSE THE WAY I HIT THE BALL IS SO COUNTERINTUITIVE.”

Who do you consider the greatest golfer of all time?

Jack Nicklaus, although I think Tiger has a chance to be right up there with him. Tiger had the most impressive run in golf: he led for seven years. I’m not sure he’ll end up winning as many as Jack did since he’s been so injured and his body has broken down. I really hope he gets healthy and comes back in his 40s: it would be great for him and great for the game of golf. So I hope to see him challenge Jack’s record but right now, I’d have to go with Jack.

Well I’ve been partnering with Peter Millar for four years now and I’ve got to say they make it easy to look good. They’re a quality brand with an unbelievable array of great clothes. So whether I’m wearing them on the golf course or for my off-the-course casual lifestyle, their stuff looks great: golf shirts, button-down shirts, sweaters, sports blazers. When I’m home with the kids on weekends, I’m most often in a T-shirt and jeans.

Any other interests?

What do you think about the impact of modern equipment on classic courses now that you pros can hit much further?

Being with my kids, who are right now at fun ages: five and three.

I like getting outdoors. I love fishing and hunting.

You know, it’s just like anything else in life: technology enhances but also makes some things obsolete. We redo buildings, we redo cars to accommodate technology, so why not golf courses? We modify everything else! People get so hung up on traditional golf courses, but they just need to be tweaked a bit by adding some yardage. I think golf has been given an unfair rap: technological advances aren’t such a bad thing.

Are you introducing your kids to golf?

They’re already both into it and they love it. My little man especially, who is only three years old, wants to play every day. I love that they’re liking it!

Do you dream of them becoming pro golfers?

No, I wouldn’t push them. It’s ironic that a lot of guys on the tour push their kids away from golf rather than towards it because we realize that it takes lots of hard work, lots of luck and the chances of turning pro are so slim. But if my kids end up being passionate about golf and that’s the goal they want to pursue, then I’ll do everything in my power to help them.

What was your single best moment on the golf course?

Winning the FedEx Cup. That was obviously a huge day for me, for my career, and most importantly for my confidence. Beating the best players in the world at their best—wow!

65

resorts

Sea Island Dreaming

The history and tradition of this spectacular resort fulfill a golf-lover’s fantasy. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

’m sitting on the waterfront veranda of The Lodge, one of two luxury hotels at Sea Island Golf Resort. (The Lodge, adjacent to three golf courses on St. Simons Island, feels like an old English manor; The Cloisters, built on Sea Island in 1928 but reintroduced in 2006 after a three-year renovation, blends the history and aesthetics of Mediterranean revival style.) I’m sipping a Jack Daniels, taking in a brilliant sunset, and listening to the soulful sounds of a solitary bagpiper who’s been strolling the shoreline for the past hour. Enchanted by the music, the scenery, the wildlife, the canopy of oak trees and the genteel and gracious hospitality throughout the resort, I’m more relaxed than I’ve been in ages. (I had intended to go for a massage at Sea Island’s famous spa, but after only a few hours at the resort I no longer need one…)

Truth be told: I’m not a golfer but since I’m married to one, I looked forward to a mini-vacation at this renowned Forbes Five-Star resort, home to one of the top-rated golf schools in the country. Little did I know how much the property has to offer above and beyond golf! James Gibson, Sea Island’s VP of operations, lists a hunting lodge, a shooting school, a yacht club featuring fishing, sailing and kayaking, a pristine beach, numerous swimming pools, an award-winning 65,000-square-foot spa, an indoor atrium, many fabulous restaurants (including the five-star Georgian room and my favorite, Colt & Alison) and numerous bars (I loved the Oak Room!) among the resort’s amenities. “Our demographic is multi-generational,” he explains as we sip tea in the historic Trophy Room. “Guests come with their children and grandchildren, couples come for romantic getaways, groups come for golf outings, and of course many PGA golf pros have chosen to make this their home.” Asked to articulate the essence of Sea Island, what makes it truly special, Gibson talks about the employees. “At least 80 of our people have worked here more than 25 years, which is unheard

66

Sophisticated. Smart. Refined.

eather

www.perlora.com 2837 Smallman St. • 412.434.7425

The LARGEST leather showroom in the burgh!

of in our business,” he explains.

“Robert, who works in our men’s locker room, has been with us 50 years.

Ask him how he’s doing and he’ll always respond ‘Mighty Fine’ which is what we now call him. Our repeat customers always make it a point to visit with Mighty Fine…”

Brannen Veal, Sea Island’s director of golf, grew up playing golf in Macon, Georgia but turned to baseball at Auburn University (his dad had been a professional ball player with the Detroit Tigers). “After college, I went back to golf, starting out as a golf cart attendant as many of us do. I’m a good golfer (Editor’s Note: He’s being modest; he’s actually a scratch golfer.) and I’ve taught in Golf Digest top schools, but my passion is the service aspect: I love helping people enjoy the game.”

Discussing Sea Island’s celebrated state-ofthe-art Golf Performance Center (featuring 3D capture, 13 top-rated instructors, three fitters, two fitness experts and its own psychologist), Veal talks about an individualized approach tailored to personal goals and skill levels. Focusing on five core competencies (long game, short game, fitness, club fitting and mental game), Veal notes that each competency has its own instructors. “Our goal at this Performance Center was to create the ultimate golf experience: the best courses, luxury accommodations, fine dining, top fitness programs, exceptional instructors (who currently work with Davis Love, Matt Kuchar, Harris English, Zach Johnson and other pros) and our own sports psychologist, Dr. Morris “Mo” Pickens.

Veal points out that while many professionals frequent the Performance Center, it’s not just for five-handicappers. “I’d say the average handicap is mid-teens, and of course we also welcome beginners. And that’s one of the paradoxes we struggle with: because we have so many pros and so many top-50 teachers, people sometimes assume they’re not good enough to be here. So we’re trying to make the experience less intimidating. It’s essential for us to

grow the game and not be so focused on professionals and top amateur players. Sure they’re great, sure we want them here, but it’s just as important to get those beginner golfers who’ve never held a club, to make them feel comfortable so they want to be part of the game.”

Delving a bit further into the mental game, Veal jokes that “it’s the one place where I could destroy Dr. Mo: if he knew what was really going on in my head, he might never recover…” More seriously, he explains the process: usually a 30-minute initial assessment followed by Dr. Mo accompanying the golfer on nine holes and then coming up with suggestions. “It’s not earth-shattering stuff: it’s generally about how you compartmentalize, prioritize, focus and then let go. I know that’s oversimplified, but it works. And it’s as applicable to business, and to life, as it is to golf…”

68

Evolution

Golf attire then and now.

BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD

GETTY1 THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION

Right: Ben Hogan, 1955 Below: The Duke of Windsor (left) with Lord Castleross, 1933

70

GETTY1 HULTON ROYALS COLLECTION

history

Style

When I took up golf at the age of 41, the first thing I did was order a pair of shoes. Not just any shoes, mind you, as golf presented the perfect opportunity to bust out brownand-white spectator wingtips. When my Millennial-generation instructor saw me, he cast a doubtful eye. “The way it works,” he said, “is you’ve got to have game to wear stuff like that.”

I can see where he was coming from. I’ll never forget being in the group behind a freshly minted hacker. He hit every ball out of bounds, insisted on looking for it, and when he finally found it, took five strokes trying to hack it out of thick brush. But even more memorable than the

colossal waste of time he imposed on everyone behind him was his bubble-gum pink sweater. There was something offensive in his assumption that he could wear fun clothes despite having no skill nor sense of etiquette.

But the problem with golf attire today is not that it’s too flamboyant, but that it’s too serious. Crazy pants show up now and then, but for the most part golf clothing embodies the game’s obsession with professionalization, technology, corporate sponsorship and branding, leaving few traces of its aristocratic origins or Caddyshack hijinks. If we were to gather a metaphoric foursome representing the past hundred years of golf attire, we would see a sartorial mirror of change in both the game and society at large.

Let’s say that first on the tee box is the Gentleman. His hero is the Duke of Windsor, and he is clad in argyle knee socks, tweed plusfours (knickers), tattersall shirt, wool tie and Fair Isle sweater. For him golf is a game played on the vast acreage that surrounds a country estate—land that is used for farming (golf was invented by Scottish shepherds, after all), hunting, riding and keeping everyone else—save for the servants—as far away as possible. The clothing hardly differs from that worn for other country activities. Yet despite how it seems, there’s still a touch of the modern: for when the Duke of Windsor, the biggest fashion leader of his era, first donned a Fair Isle sweater in 1921, it was something new.

Next on the tee is the Classicist, from whom I take my personal inspiration. Whereas the Gentleman looks anachronistic, the Classicist is inspired by the past but stylistically relevant. The shoes are traditional, but the trousers are pulled from the man’s everyday wardrobe. The necktie is no longer customary, and in place of a dress shirt is a fitted short-sleeve polo shirt covered by a cashmere Vneck. A flat cap tops off the outfit. This simple, modern, timeless look was personified by Ben Hogan in the 1950s.

Wisecracking his way to the tee box next is the Country Clubber, even if he’s playing his local muni course at the discounted twilight rate. This guy’s hero is Bill Murray, and he resides in a sunny suburban community. He exemplifies the era when golf courses sprouted up across America, and middle-class desk jockeys took up golf to climb the social ladder. The clothing symbolizes a life of carefree suburban leisure: loud pants clash with brightcolored shirts and alpaca cardigans, and the clown colors seem to perfectly reflect the comedy of errors that is the game of golf. Hats are dispensed with altogether.

Finally stepping onto the tee box—and shooting from the blacks— is an imposing figure, so teched-out he simply must be a single-

ISTOCK: CHATCHAI SOMWAT

Right: Sergio Garcia, 2013 Below: Bobby Jones, 1920s

digit. He doesn’t wear wingtips, but shoes that look designed for skateboarding. His clothing is loaded with performance attributes and splattered with manufacturers’ logos. He wears a baseball cap, where yet another logo blares its brand loyalty.

Everything is color-coordinated, from his glove to his belt to driver head, which comes with 12 hosel adjustments. This is the Technocrat. In the near future, research will find that pants and zippered pullovers create wind resistance, and that a spandex bodysuit—the kind speed-skaters wear—can increase clubhead speed by an average of 1.2 miles per hour. This guy will be the first at his club to wear one.

On the surface it would seem like little in the game of golf has changed: you still try to hit a ball 400 yards into a four-and-a-half-inch hole in four strokes. Yet golf has always been driven by change and technology—the old balls were called featheries precisely because they were stuffed with feathers. And the world of golf instruction is increasingly accepting that there is no perfect onesize-fits-all swing, and that it’s more a matter of finding your own unique way of achieving the desired result.

Dressing for golf should be no different: you can wear whatever the hell you want, so long as it works for you.

72

designers

WORK IT

OUR FAVORITE MEN IN FASHION TALK FIRST JOBS AND SURPRISING JOURNEYS TO THE TOP.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON My first real job was actually unpaid since I dropped out of school (truth be told I was kicked out). My father helped me get a trainee job at a local hotel where I cleaned rooms, worked with the maintenance team and helped out in the conference center.

I think my father thought that because I was doing this rather boring job at 16, I would reconsider my decision to drop out and return to school. I can’t say I enjoyed working at the hotel but at least I learned I never want to work at hotels. I enlisted in the army at 17 against my will and I was out of the hotel world after six months.

After 10 months in the army service and another less successful career at a reception job, I moved back to my old hometown and applied for a position in the warehouse at Eton. That was my first job in the business. I was about to turn 19 and through Eton I heard about a sales rep position at Harrods in London. I got the job and that became the starting point to my career in fashion.

I love working at Eton because of my colleagues. I get to travel to so many interesting places, I find time to play with my band, Highly Sedated, and I have a genuine passion for what I do. I have found a profession that I enjoy doing so much so it rarely feels like I'm working. That has got to be the ultimate feeling. I guess it's a matter of finding what you love and then going out of your way to do it. I have worked hard to get where I am today, but the rewarding everyday feeling makes it all worth it.

74

My first job was in London, folding shirts in a shop for £25 a week. This position eventually led me to my current role because I was (and still am) the best folding man around! The best part about my job as CEO of Isaia is that I wake up in the morning happy to go to work…

hand-picked eyewear from around the world

BENEDUM TREES BUILDING 223 FOURTH AVENUE PITTSBURGH 15219 HEIDIOPTICS.COM FACEBOOK.COM/HEIDIOPTICS 412.281.7022

designers

SAM KU, AG I worked summer retail at a Champs Sports in the local mall. I was not a very good sales person, and this still holds true today! My first job out of college was a position in AG’s R&D facility, the department responsible for developing washes. I knew nothing about denim manufacturing at the time, so it was a very eye-opening learning process for me.

Prior to this job I had worked a few internships in a couple different fields. One job was in finance, and another in an advertising firm. Neither really excited me all that much, so I told my father I would go work for him. My salary at the time was $30K. I think young people starting in fashion have to understand that starting salaries are what they are, and it takes time and experience to add value to a company.

From this position, I moved to different parts of the company. I spent some time in the sample sewing room and learned how our product was constructed. I eventually moved into a design position, and I’m still involved in the design process today.

The best part of working in fashion is seeing a project through from start to finish. The process of seeing something go from concept to development to sales and hitting the retail floor is a satisfying one.

76

at your service

CLOSET CLEANING

EXPERTISE

COFFEE & WATER BAR

In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer a complimentary closet consultation. One of our associates will visit your home to inventory your closet and offer suggestions on how to mix and match new items with your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or readjustments that you may need.

Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising you on all clothing and accessory matters. From trends to tailoring, we want to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one.

In the hectic world in which we live, many simple pleasures are lost. Sometimes a hot cup of coffee or a friendly, familiar face is the best comfort for the soul. We’re happy to provide both, and more.

BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need attention, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, at no charge. We want you looking your best, down to the last detail.

Upon cleaning your closet, you may have unwanted items. Should this be the case, we can coordinate a donation to a local charity and make the delivery for you.

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your mind while you shop.

GIFT CERTIFICATES A Larrimor’s gift certificate is the gift that always fits! Our gift certificates are available for purchase, in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call and we’ll wrap the gift certificate and ship it to the recipient for you!

FAMILY FRIENDLY As a family business, we feel that it is essential to create a shopping experience that can be enjoyed by the whole family. At Larrimor’s, we provide interactive play areas so that your time with us can be more relaxed, and your children can still have fun.

HOME DELIVERY We understand your busy schedule and want to do all we can to lessen the demands on your time. This is why we provide local delivery to your home or office, or we can ship anywhere in the United States.

COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all regularly priced clothing. Down to the detail of every stitch, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our on-site team of world-class tailors is here to give you the perfect fit.

service is paramount It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable associates who help and guide you.

COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.

RETURN POLICY We have a liberal return policy, where you can bring your purchases back if you are not satisfied with them within a reasonable period of time. We want to make sure you love your new items when you get home as much as you do in the store.

ABUNDANT PARKING To ensure your shopping experience is as stress-free as possible, we provide you with ample validated parking that is both convenient and secure—a real luxury in downtown Pittsburgh.

Shop online at Larrimors.com.

STORE TO DOOR

BY APPOINTMENT

When it comes to making sure you look your finest, Larrimor’s is ready to go the extra mile. One phone call is all it takes to bring one of our expert sales associates to your home or office—at your convenience, and at no extra cost.

Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will preselect a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, and place the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future.

Individual or group appointments are available. To schedule, call us at 412.471.5727 or email TMichael@Larrimors.com.

You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.

LARRIMOR’S ONE PNC PLAZA 249 5TH AVENUE (AT 5TH AVE & WOOD ST)

412.471.5727 LARRIMORS.com

to the CORE

Why your wardrobe needs quality basics.

For centuries, luxury fashion pushed the limits of wearability.

Fussy styles and decadent details by famous designers were said to reflect wealth, extravagance and certainly status.

Fast-forward to 2016. Those almighty fashion houses still stand, but the look of luxury has taken a different course. The most notable influencers of the past two years? Larry David and Jerry Seinfeld. Yes, these two have put simple sneakers, tapered denim, casual sportcoats and a function-over-fashion lifestyle on the luxury map. It is, without a doubt, their version of wealth, success and status that has altered what we are seeing today on runways and sidewalks alike.

Normcore is the name. Hardcore normal is the game. The term was first coined by K-Hole, a New York-based cultural reporting agency that suggested Millennials wanted to seek out individual identities by blending in versus undertaking the exhausting effort to stand out. Thus the “more-going-on-inside-than-meets-the-eye” look has become wildly popular.

And big luxury brands are picking up what Larry and Jerry have (unwittingly) put down. Fendi released its spring/summer 2016 collection in Milan, showcasing its take on this trend with an array of minimalist shapes, colors and comfortable silhouettes. Other industry pioneers of normcore include Prada, Celine, Vince and Chanel, so be prepared for others (including the fast-fashion copycats that clothe the masses) to follow suit. The desire for high-end basics is definitely happening and it will likely continue for some time.

Recently, Harvard researchers conducted an interesting study revealing customer behavior in luxury retail stores. They concluded that people shopping in tracksuits are actually perceived as more confident and likely to splurge than those waltzing through the doors in fancy clothes or otherwise contrived outfits. While we’re not advocating that the trend be taken to the tracksuit extreme, we must admit that unpretentious people dressed in simple, well-made attire seem to be the epitome of cool these days.

For surely, looking confident and appropriate while staying comfortable is a luxury in itself—and in a society that has become less formal, it makes perfect sense. Now that upscale brands are presenting more relaxed, well-styled basics in luxury fabrics, it’s easier than ever to look great without trying too hard. In fact, you don’t

BY NATALIE GALAS

need to flaunt a lot of details or patterns or status labels these days.

Consider instead a soft white cotton T-shirt under a washed linen sportcoat, worn with a light denim pant and a plain white sneaker (sans logo). The air already feels lighter. The quality of these simple pieces is what stands out, and the less “branded” the look, the better.

So who’s the new hero of high-fashion normcore? Might it not be the shleppy-looking fashion designer taking a bow at the end of his runway show?

Larry David and Jerry Seinfeld have put a function-over-fashion lifestyle on the luxury map.

GETTY1

style

NORMal

80

© 2016 Crane & Co.™

F I N E S TAT I O N E R Y | B E S P O K E I N V I TAT I O N S | G I F T W R A P & M O R E I N T H E H E A R T O F S H A DY S I D E

S C R I B E P G H . C O M

LARRIMOR’S FORUM SS 2016