Malouf’s
Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2013
SPRING 2013 FASHION:
ASHADES CHANGE OF OF SEASONS BLUE WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER
THE NEW RULES OF BUSINESS CASUAL ROAD TRIP!
WHY CUSTOM?
WHY NOT? WE DEBUNK SOME COMMON MYTHS
Su Misura Made to Measure is the Art of Personal Elegance Our promise is to deliver perfectly tailored apparel designed for your individual character from an unparalleled collection of Zegna fabrics. From personalized suits to entire wardrobes.
Malouf’s Kingsgate Center 8201 Quaker Avenue #106 Lubbock, TX 79424
FEATURES
806-794-9500
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Southlake Town Square
Welcome Letter Road Trip: Robert Talbott Wheels: Ride on the Wild Side Music: Rodgers & Hammerstein Revisited 60 Interiors: Risk Management
190 State Street Southlake, TX 76092 817-416-7100 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle
FASHION 10 28 34 36 44 66
The First Sign of Spring Profile: Hamilton Shirts Style: Color Cues 6 New Rules of Business Casual 26 Shades of Blue Books: A Sprig of Ivy
PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi
DEPARTMENTS
PRESIDENT AND CEO
6 8 32 52 64 68 70 72
Mac Brighton
Ask John Ask Katy Man of Style: Philippe Cousteau World Scene Spirits: Bespoke Booze Travel: A Grape Night’s Sleep Practical Matters: Keep it Clean At Your Service
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2013. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 16, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
SPRING/SUMMER 2013
profile
David and Kelly Hamilton have expanded the family business.
BESPOKEN FOR
A young Texas twosome reinvigorates their family’s great American shirt business. By William Kissel WE DO IT ALL—
When fourth-generation shirt makers David and Kelly Hamilton decided to extend the reach of their family’s custom shirts outside their Houston-based store, the siblings knew they would have to keep a close eye on their distribution. “In our experience, [the product is] only as good as the salesperson on the floor. So we wanted to limit ourselves to only the best specialty stores in the country who know their products and their customers as well as we know ours,” says David. Hence, Hamilton’s signature shirts can only be found in fewer than 30 of the top retailers nationwide. Indeed, each Hamilton shirt—whether custom, made-to-measure or a product of the firm’s relatively new Hamilton 1883 ready-made collection—is a carefully constructed work of art made from the finest Italian and Swiss fabrics (more than 500 varieties in stock and an additional 700 on demand). They are hand-cut and hand-crafted entirely in America. Unlike other shirt makers, nearly 80 percent of the 130-yearold Hamilton brand’s operation is still dedicated to the lost art of bespoke, made-to-order shirt making, a process that allows the customer to choose his own fabric, cut, button, collar and cuff style, among other sartorial details. Moreover, the firm still cuts its shirts from a customer’s own signature paper pattern and produces a prototype garment to allow for alterations and client approval before completing every order. What’s most unique about the Hamilton experience
is that the client never feels overFROM MEASURING whelmed by the myriad options. AND HELPING CLIENTS “It’s like a menu in a restaurant,” SELECT THE DETAILS says David. “There are infinite OF THEIR SHIRTS options, but we don’t present it that TO FASHIONING THE way. We think it’s best to make sugFINISHED PRODUCT. gestions, so the client still controls every design aspect but without the burden of making every decision.” Hamilton might be unknown to most who’ve never ventured inside the company’s original Texas shop, but the brand actually has deep roots. It began in 1883 (hence the signature on its ready-made shirts) when brothers Edward and J. Brooke established Hamilton Brothers as a clothier producing everything from custom-made suits to hats. Shirts became the family’s primary focus after World War II, and over the years the business passed from generation to generation. Under Kelly and David’s stewardship, which began in 2006, the label has expanded nationally and introduced a new collection of softly styled sport shirts with a slightly slimmer fit to reach a younger demographic. “The softer collar gives it a more contemporary feel, and the tail is shorter so it can be worn in or out. But we still use the highest quality fabrics that appeal to a more classic customer,” says David. Shirts range in price from roughly $225 (readymade) to $325 (full bespoke).
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CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶MALOUFʼS THINKS SO
T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . . AND JEANS
road trip
AMERICA,
Robert Talbott’s top execs stopped to visit on their cross-country moto tour. By Harry Sheff
THE LONG WAY
few months after Bob Corliss came on as the new CEO of the storied Northern California shirt and tie company Robert Talbott, he had an idea: instead of booking dozens of flights around the country to visit stores, he wanted to drive across the country by motorcycle, stopping to introduce himself to customers along the way. Robb Talbott, who owns the company and the Talbott Vineyards, was game. Talbott and Corliss had bonded early on over their love of cars and bikes. “We’re both gearheads,” recalls Corliss. “I’ve ridden a motorcycle my whole life, as has Robb. I said, ‘Let’s pursue our passion and go visit our customers on motorcycles!’” They may not have realized what they were getting into. In the end, the journey was split into six parts over 12 months, covering 13,500 miles across 30 states, with stops at nearly 50 menswear stores. The bikes they chose for the job were BMW R1150 GS Adventures—the same machines Ewan MacGregor and Charley Boorman rode on their London to New York trip documented in the series Long Way Round.
“They’re absolutely incredible machines. I can be accused of being more enthusiastic about the bikes than the menswear business sometimes,” Corliss admits. “But it leaves a real impression with the customers. The reactions from retailers have been anywhere from, ‘You’ve got to be kidding me—you guys must be crazy,’ to ‘That’s really cool! Can we come?’” His advice for those who want to attempt such a trip: “Make sure your insurance is paid up and be really, really careful. It’s not so much you—it’s the guy on his cell phone you have to worry about.” In the end, there were no accidents (aside from the occasional tip-over in a parking lot) and, miraculously, no speeding tickets. “I was fortunate enough to meet two very friendly officers in Arizona and one in North Carolina… but I got out of both tickets,” Corliss grins. Would he ever do it again? “No time soon!” he laughs. “But we’re really glad we did it. Robb and I both knew we needed to reconnect with the customers. I tell you, when I show up at your doorstep and I stink, I’m wet, tired and hungry, I’m going to make an impression! But people couldn’t have been more open and welcoming.”
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Above: Robb Talbott, John Malouf and Bob Corliss pose near the Malouf’s entrance.
man of style
A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE When Philippe Cousteau was a boy, he wanted to be a fireman. Then, on his 16th birthday, his mother and sisters gave him a present: a research trip to Papua New Guinea. Since then he’s been traveling the world, from enduring the cold of Antarctica to providing humanitarian aid in war-torn Sarajevo. A self-described “explorer, social entrepreneur and environmental advocate,” Philippe Cousteau is the 32year-old son of Jan and Philippe Cousteau Sr. He is also, of course, the grandson of legendary Captain Jacques-Yves Cousteau. “My grandfather taught me to always innovate... always question,” he says. “Each of us has the responsibility to make the world a better place.” Cousteau takes this responsibility very seriously. For him, exploring the connections between humans and the environment is as important as exploring nature itself. He is co-founder of Azure Worldwide, a strategic environmental design, development and marketing company. Along with green site design and planning, eco-tourism and new media, they’re using interactive gaming “to help people understand how their actions impact the environment.” Cousteau is also a special correspondent for CNN International, hosting the Going Green series and reporting on environmental and humanitarian issues. He serves on the boards of directors of The Ocean Conservancy, the Marine Conservation Biology Institute, the National Environmental Education Foundation and the National Council of the World Wildlife Fund. He has
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TOP RIGHT COURTESY BBC. BOTTOM LEFT AND NEXT PAGE COURTESY ADAM LARKEY.
PHILIPPE COUSTEAU MAKES ENVIRONMENTAL CONSERVATION LOOK GOOD. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
also testified to Congress on ocean management and off-shore drilling. In addition, Cousteau is president of EarthEcho International, a non-profit organization he founded with his sister and mother, whose mission is to encourage youth to take action that restores and protects our water planet. “My grandfather was a wonderful storyteller and communicator,” Cousteau reveals. “He believed you could change society through kids.” Following this philosophy, EarthEcho combines education, balanced advocacy and a commitment to action, providing programs and tools for students to undertake local projects to help the environment. It also includes training in citizen journalism, workshops that teach young people how to write and tell stories about the environment and the world they live in. “If they can learn [how to write], their words have meaning. They have power,” he emphasizes. Cousteau is the co-author, with Cathryn Berger Kaye M.A., of Going Blue: A Teen Guide to Saving the Oceans, Lakes, Rivers, & Wetlands (Free Spirit Publishing, 2010) and Make A Splash!: A Kid’s Guide to Protecting Our Oceans, Lakes, Rivers, & Wetlands. “We’ve seen firsthand the passion young people have for the environment. EarthEcho’s focus is to empower youth to make a difference…. Adults often tell me they now recycle because their kids insist on it.” xtending his social and environmental work to the financial realm, Cousteau has partnered with AdvisorShares Investments to launch the Global Echo Exchange Traded Fund on the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE: GIVE), as well as to form the GlobalECHO Foundation, a 501 (c)(3) for which he serves as co-founder and chairman. “The GlobalECHO Foundation is dedicated to supporting projects and organizations that have the power to transform communities and inspire positive change well beyond their geographic boundaries,” he explains. Despite the seriousness of his business, Cousteau
“ADULTS OFTEN TELL ME THEY NOW has a charming sense of humor. His personal RECYCLE BECAUSE style is both classic and delightfully unique. In a dress shirt (no tie), a vest and jeans (with a THEIR KIDS INSIST jacket draped over his suitcase), he also wears ON IT.” two cords around his neck—one featuring a carved
cow horn from Zanzibar, the other a silver shark tooth—as well as numerous bracelets, including one made of wooden beads from South Korea, another of Guatemalan embroidery, and a silver one from his fiancée. Due to his busy schedule, which on any given day might include taping a television segment during a jungle trek, then attending a fundraiser or making a personal appearance, Cousteau has had to learn which clothes work for him in various settings. For TV appearances in the wild, he chooses blue cotton shirts and khaki pants; he even has the pants tailored for a perfect fit. For casual wear he likes jeans (which he lets his fiancée pick out), and on dressier occasions, he prefers three-piece suits. (Recently Cousteau “is into vests,” in part because they offer pockets for his latest passion: pocket watches.) The sense of adventure that has taken Cousteau all over the globe for his work is also reflected in his private life. He even has a list of things he thinks he (and every man of style) should be able to do: fix things around the house, ride a motorcycle, drive a stick shift, tie a bow tie, choose the best wines and spirits, prepare good meals and barbeque. And what does a man who travels 300 days a year do for vacation? Cousteau smiles. “When work is swimming with great white sharks, a day off is sleeping in.”
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style
SPRING 2013 FASHION SIZZLES WITH BOLD HUES. HERE’S HOW TO WEAR THEM. BY LENORE RICH
COLOR CUES To get out of a lackluster neutral zone, a few tips: Determine your best colors and wear them near your face. You’ll have a healthy glow. Your eyes will be brighter, your teeth whiter, you’ll look more alert. Knowing your personal color palette will prevent costly mistakes (like buying clothes that just end up hanging in your closet). A professional color analysis is the best option, but you can also do it yourself. Under natural lighting, hold a fabric up to your face, alternating between cool, blue-based tones (blue-reds, true blues, black, white) with warm, yellowbased shades (yellows, oranges, beiges). It should be obvious: either cool or warm colors will be more flattering. (FYI, the vast majority of American men look best in cool shades; hence white or light blue dress shirts rather than beige, and gray or navy suits rather than brown.) Accessorize! If some of your favorite clothes are in the
‘wrong’ color, add a scarf or sweater in the right shade. Eyeglasses, hotter than ever, are a great way to bring ‘correct’ color to your face. Men should consider adding color with great ties, scarves, socks, belts, shoes (and shoelaces!), or other mood-elevating accessories. This season’s essential buy: five-pocket pants or jeans in bold color. The good news: just pick a shade you love! It’s okay to wear a wrong color away from your face; just make sure the top is in your right color! But remember: color blocking that cuts the body in half looks best on tall, thin model types, which most of us are not. While skin tone is the most important factor in finding your best colors, make-up and hair color matter. Fortunately for the men out there: most guys look great with gray hair, as long as it’s the right shade of gray. See a professional colorist and go from drab to dynamic.
The Color-Mood Connection Connecticut, confirms that color evokes mood. “People need visual cues to reinforce feelings and create a state of mind. For example, the Argentine Tango, a passionate dance, evokes feelings of fury, mystery and attitude. I wear a red tie and my dance partner wears red lipstick and strong eye makeup, enhancing the intense facial expression inherent in this dance. Although the quintessential black or red tango dress may seem cliché, it’s totally relevant. Latin dances—caliente and spicy—scream for reds, yellows, oranges and sparkle. But a graceful elegant waltz begs for soft blues and pastels to set the scene—picture a fairy tale Princess gliding across the dance floor...”
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LEFT FERNANDA RESENDE. ABOVE COURTESY SCOTT JAMES
Ronny Dutra, dance instructor at Dance With Me studios in Stamford,
PHOTOGRAPHY: STEPHEN CIUCCOLI STYLING: JOSEPH UNGOCO GROOMING: VASSILIS KOKKINIDIS FOR FORD ARTISTS
Take note.
NEWRULES FOR BUSINESSCASUAL You heard it here first: Casual Fridays are becoming less casual, even on Fridays, even in the summer! The new Business Casual is just as relaxed but nowhere near as sloppy. Clothes that fit. Colors that flatter. Luxury fabrics that beg to be touched. (Well, maybe not in the office…) Score points with the boss, with the women, with your mother… Look better, feel better, perform PERFORMANCE better. Here, in the pages to follow, the new ENHANCING rules for Business Casual.
Rule
1
JEANS IN THE OFFICE:
Unless you’re meeting with formal clients, jeans are okay. Just make sure you’re wearing perfectly fitted premium denim in an even-tone dark wash. Paired with a sportcoat, a cardigan, or even a shirt and tie, dressed-up denim is fine with us. (Just ditch the big baggy stuff and wear great shoes!)
Rule
2
A SPORTCOAT IS ALWAYS APPROPRIATE!
Why not try a modern unconstructed version, (unlined, minus the padding) worn with a lightweight knit top or shirt and tie. (Bows are back, especially for young guys!) Note too the fivepocket pants in non-denim fabrics. Fit is key!
3
Rule
INVEST IN A GREAT SPRING JACKET!
Since you don’t need a whole wardrobe of them, pick something really special. (Suede in the spring is very Italian!)
4
Rule
FOCUS ON ACCESSORIES.
Cool socks: check! Perfect watch? Essential. Bracelet? Adds personality. A great bag or backpack? Of course! And don’t overlook your belt and wallet. Make sure they convey the impression you want to make.
5
Rule
BEST FOOT FORWARD.
Women know, and guys are learning: it’s all about the shoes! For spring 2013, we love lace-ups in soft leather or suede; have fun with color!
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Rule
MODELS: KERSCH, Q MODEL MANAGEMENT; PIERRE BARRERA, RED MODEL MANAGEMENT
IMPORTANT: IT’S OKAY TO LOOK LIKE THE BOSS! You’ll never be denied an opportunity because you look too professional. On the other hand, clothes that work for the gym or backyard could very well hold you back. As the saying goes: Dress for the job you want, not the one you’ve got…
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEK STYLING: WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY
SHADES of BLUE This spring, the world’s most universally beloved color — and the color that somehow magically looks good on everyone — is everywhere! In a stunning spectrum of solids, prints, textures and patterns, when it comes to blue, the sky and the sea are the limit. So get your blue on!
Aquamarine Azure Baby Bluebe b rry Caribbean Ceru ulean Cobalt Cornfl flower Denim Heather In ndigo Midnight Navy Ocean Pacific Peacock Periwinkle Powder Robin’s Egg Royal Sapphire Sky Steel Teal Turquoise Violet
Aquamarine Azure Baby Blueberry Caribbean Cerulean Cobalt Cornflower Denim Heather Indigo Midnight Navy Ocean Pacific Peacock Periwinkle Powder Robin’s Egg Royal Sapphire Sky Steel Teal Turquoise Violet
wheels
ROVS AND THE ART OF OFF-ROAD MANEUVERS. marsh has been created as well as four acres of fresh-water wetlands. Other activities on the island include golf, tennis, fitness facilities and batting cages. There’s a summer concert series including a visit by Cirque du Soleil, as well as art exhibits. This may not sound like the ideal off-road location, but with piles of debris embellished with mud and rocks, it’s a terrain perfect for teaching novice ROV operators the art of off-road maneuvers. Recreational Off-Road Vehicles (ROVs), also called Side by Side vehicles, are exciting to drive but handle differently than ATVs (All Terrain Vehicles), mainly because they have steering wheels (and seats), whereas ATVs are steered with handle bars. The manufacturers of ROVs provide free online training courses, but for a modest fee, a hands-on training course can be arranged. The course’s professional instructors begin with a basic familiarization of the machines, starting with the drive train and including all the various switches, buttons and gears. Understanding the many forms of terrain is essential, so proper instruction on how best to handle these challenges is emphasized. Once the basics are covered, the fun begins when students mount their ROVs and follow the instructor through streams of water, mud, rocks and gravel, up hills and down, experiencing all manner of difficult conditions. It’s important for new owners of ROVs to understand that these machines are not designed for public roads or highways and certain rules are mandatory. The online E-Course and the Hands On Driver Course are provided by ROHVA (Recreational Off Highway Vehicle Association); further information can be obtained on their website at rohva.org or by phoning 949-255-2560.
RIDE ON THE
As I navigated the twists and turns of the course, it was apparent that this was pretty nasty terrain. Going through mud and rocks as I approached an incredibly steep incline, my instructor convinced me our 4-wheel drive vehicle could handle it. Up we went, with absolutely no wheel spin as we climbed the hill. Cresting it, we then faced the equally daunting challenge of the downside. With no turning back, the machine maintained total control as it brought us down the slope; I was once again able to breathe normally. You might think we were in Colorado, Nevada, New Mexico or North Dakota. Wrong. We were in the wilds of New York City on an island in the middle of the East River: Randall’s Island. It was used by the British army to launch attacks on Manhattan during the Revolutionary War, and in the 19th century housed an orphanage, a poor house, a burial ground, an insane asylum, a reform school and a rest home for Civil War vets. Today the Randall’s Island Park Alliance, in concert with the City of New York, has created a destination for New Yorkers to enjoy cultural events and sporting activities. By clearing 15,000 yards of debris and replacing it with clean sand and native marsh grasses, a four-acre salt
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WITH PILES OF DEBRIS EMBELLISHED WITH MUD AND ROCKS, THE TERRAIN IS PERFECT FOR TEACHING NOVICE ROV OPERATORS.
COURTESY KAWASAKI MOTORS CORP. USA
WILD SIDE
SPRING 2013 In America, we start at the bottom and work our way up.
SHOWN: STEPHON SHOE BAG & GRIFFIN SHOE SHINE KIT
world scene GARDEN VARIETY
T
his spring and summer, you could plant a few geraniums… or create your own private paradise. A simple patch at a small house in London, a garden featuring an Italian cascade in California, extravagant parks on great estates in France and Belgium: French landscape artist and garden designer Francois Goffinet develops the concepts and personally oversees the realization of his projects all over the world. Aficionados who prefer to do it themselves can still have a touch of the master with pieces from Monsieur Goffinet’s recently introduced classical garden furniture collection, which includes a wood chair, armchair, footstool, stone table, tent and planters. He also offers advice: “Take care of the site and the genius loci.”
Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson
TALENT SHOWS
T
BILL WESTMORELAND
he brilliant singer/songwriter Ann Hampton Callaway has composed over 250 songs for television, Broadway and Off-Broadway. Her music and lyrics have been performed and recorded by talents as diverse as Liza Minnelli, Patti LuPone, Michael Feinstein, Carole King and the legendary Barbra Streisand, who asked Callaway to write lyrics to a Rolf Lovland melody entitled I’ve Dreamed of You. (She liked the finished product so much she sang it to James Brolin at their wedding.) Last year, the Boston Pops commissioned Callaway to create and perform a show based on music performed by Streisand. On opening night, at Boston’s famed Symphony Hall, the audience gave her nine standing ovations. Starting this spring and continuing into the autumn, Callaway is taking the Barbra Streisand Songbook on the road, performing with symphony orchestras across the country in cities from Washington to Pennsylvania.
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GOT GAME?
N
aturally, a man (or woman) cave needs comfortable furniture, a really big TV, a killer sound system, a place to keep food, and the latest high-tech games. Take the fun-factor up a notch with a blast from the past. Dazadi offers awesome Stern pinball machines (the last company to make them) with themes including X-Men, Tron, Avatar, the recently released AC/DC and Transformers, and the very cool Limited-Edition Rolling Stones Pinball Machine. This one has a cabinet and playfield with artwork featuring band members and classic album covers, two new fast ramps, a molded Stones tongue-and-lips detail, a moving Mick Jagger target, and seven game modes that lead to a special encore. It even plays 13 Rolling Stones hits.
RIVER WORLD
R
osa River Cruises sail along historically fascinating waterways. There’s the Blue Danube cruise that meanders up this romantic river to Slovakia, Hungary, Serbia and Croatia. The cruise along the Rhine docks at castles, cities (including Mozart’s birthplace) and the mysterious Black Forest (both ships offer travelers private tours of museums and great châteaux). On board, local, often rare wines are served. There’s a spa with one-way glass walls (so guests can view the passing scene while having a treatment), gym, lounge with a dance floor, sun deck, swimming pool, putting green, whirlpool and shuffleboard court. The restaurant features regional dishes; if you’re too entranced by the view to go inside to eat, the chef will arrange to have your dinner served on deck.
VINO DA CANTARE
A
few miles from Florence near the small village of Lajatico is the Bocelli vineyard, which has belonged to the family of world-famous tenor Andrea Bocelli for generations. (Andrea’s sister-in-law Cinzia and brother Alberto manage the azienda and greet guests; Mama Bocelli can often be found hand-tying vines in the fields.) Next time you’re touring the Tuscany region of Italy, you might spend a charming afternoon visiting with the Bocellis and tasting their wines, then stop for dinner at Ristorante La Vallata just a short distance away. This restored farmhouse has several Bocelli wines in the cellar, or you can choose a favorite at the vineyard and bring it with you. Settle on the terrace surrounded by cypress and olive trees dating back to the 1700s and dine on entrées the chef creates to pair with the Bocelli wines.
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Distinctive luxury fashions handcrafted in the USA
studio in London. Not just any studio, but Abbey Road Studio, where John, Paul, George and Ringo recorded most of their music from 1962 to 1970. Ted Chapin didn’t have to imagine it. He lived it and confides that “it was pretty cool.” But instead of hearing the legendary Beatles, he listened with pride and admiration as the talented British conductor John Wilson coaxed his handpicked orchestra—comprised of many of the U.K. and Europe’s finest first-string players—to bring to life the film orchestrations of Rodgers & Hammerstein. Wilson has produced countless orchestrations for film, radio and TV, and his lifelong love of musicals has led him to restore the scores of numerous classic films including High Society and Singin’ in the Rain. “I listened to a CD many years ago of movie music by John Wilson. I’d never heard of him before, but immediately became a fan,” says Chapin, president and CEO of the New York-based Rodgers & Hammerstein: An
JOHN WILSON CONDUCTS HIS ORCHESTRA IN THE LEGENDARY ABBEY ROAD Imagem STUDIO. Company. “It led THE ANATOMY OF A CLASSIC, me on a quest to find this person who conducted with such guts and passion. I wanted him to take a look at the repertoire that I represented.” Chapin and Wilson would eventually meet at the BBC Proms, share their zeal for all things R&H, and agree to collaborate on a project. The culmination of that mutual admiration is EMI Classics’
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SEVEN DECADES LATER! Rodgers & Hammerstein At The Movies, the first re-recording of many of R&H’s most beloved songs since the original movie soundstage sessions. “There is nothing in existence with this type of integrity,” boasts
CHRIS CHRISTODOLOU / SIM CANETTY-CLARKE LICENSED TO EMI CLASSICS
music Imagine taking the long and winding road to a recording
RODGERS & HAMMERSTEIN REVISITED
“The recording opened to critical acclaim in the U.K. last fall, ahead of Coldplay, the Beach Boys, Katy Perry…” Chapin. “John has shaken up R&H’s music and said, ‘Listen to this: it’s pretty extraordinary. Don’t take it for granted.’” Since debuting to critical acclaim in the U.K. last fall—ahead of Coldplay, the Beach Boys and Katy Perry—the recording has enjoyed comparable notoriety in the United States following its February 2013 release. How could it not with a selection of 15 classics from Oklahoma, Carousel, South Pacific, The King and I and The Sound of Music in their stunning original film orchestrations? Almost seven decades after Rodgers & Hammerstein first collaborated on Oklahoma, the universality and significance of their music and message has never been stronger—both in the U.S. and abroad. John Wilson saw the reaction firsthand when he performed the duo’s iconic music at the BBC Proms and received a huge public response that grew with each subsequent performance. He was gratified by the strong reaction to a legendary team that he believes “gave us a completely new sort of musical where the songs were seamlessly integrated into the plot and pushed the plot forward. In addition to this, you got terrific tunes and beautifully crafted lyrics.” “If you’re a general fan of Rodgers & Hammerstein, you will hear in these performances such a degree of energy, clarity and passion, it’s like hearing them for the first time,” explains Chapin. “Everyone knows the
notes that make up these songs, but when you hear them played by John Wilson, you sit up and say ‘Wow!’” And that’s exactly what happened to David Pittsinger, the international opera star who made his Broadway debut as Emile de Becque in South Pacific and who also performs Some Enchanted Evening on this recording. Pittsinger says he’s in awe of “the genius of John Wilson. He captured the essence, the flavor, the text and the color of the film orchestrations. It’s inspirational to be a student, curator and champion of this music, which serves as a great tribute to the lasting relevance of Rodgers & Hammerstein.” Interestingly, South Pacific was the first musical featuring R&H as both writers and producers. One of the most successful partnerships in the history of American musical theater, their musicals have collectively earned 34 Tonys, 15 Oscars, two Pulitzer Prizes and two Grammys. For this unprecedented recording, Wilson chose what he considered to be “all the best tunes... where the orchestrations show off the orchestra.” He also showcased a broad crosssection of characters—“the Rodgers & Hammerstein types”—and intentionally cast great singers who are also respected actors. “John is smart at getting all the goods to make music,” adds Chapin. “I think Mr. Rodgers and Mr. Hammerstein would be thrilled by the results. They’d say, ‘Whoa, that’s what we wrote… and that’s exactly the way we wanted it to sound.”’
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MUSICAL MUSINGS ON MEN’S STYLE Ted Chapin: “God love the blue blazer is all I can say! Women always travel with lots of clothes on hangers, but if I’m gone for a threeday trip, I can do it all with a blue blazer. Brioni is the suit that looks best on me, so I guess I now have ‘a brand.’ And I like to have fun with neckties, an absurd category of clothing when you think about it....” David Pittsinger: “I feel very close to Emile de Becque’s style: clothing that’s refined, but expressive. I love lifetime classics—like Zegna and Armani—that make you feel impeccably dressed and pressed. But I also admire the styling of Robert Graham, whose color palettes, hand-stitching and tattoo-inspired designs are dramatic yet elegant.”
SPRING SUMMER 2013
RAOUL.COM
interiors
RISK MANAGEMENT
Kelly Wearstler lays it all on the line to make a grand statement on style. By William Kissel hen Mies van der Rohe uttered his famous words “God is in the details” to an admirer of his design work, the German-American architect might just as easily have been speaking about the work of Kelly Wearstler, the entrepreneurial designer whose thought-provoking and detail-driven designs for boutique hotels and opulent homes have redefined the concept of modern glamour. Whether designing the decadent black, white and daffodil yellow interiors of Palm Desert’s Viceroy Hotel (one of the many Viceroys she’s designed from California to the Caribbean), putting the finishing touches on her recently launched women’s fashion label, or drafting pieces for her new line of furniture and wall coverings debuting this spring, Wearstler—a former Playboy centerfold turned style-bending interior designer—is a self-described risk-taker who finds
genius in the most off-beat places. “I can find inspiration in vintage books and fashion, or spend hours in a button store and see one that inspires a pillow,” says the Australian-born designer, who shares her Los Angeles home with her husband, real estate developer Brad Korzen, and their two young sons, Oliver and Elliott. “The smallest things in everyday life—colors, prints, patterns—all fascinate me,” she says. Those everyday musings have been turned into magical pieces for the home, office or wardrobe: everything from bedding and draperies to jackets and day dresses. Wearstler and her signature studio, KWID, have quickly become one of the world’s most sought-after design firms, primarily because her work transcends style and place without appearing too studied or overly trendy. To that end, Wearstler is not afraid to combine elements of Hollywood Regency, Rococo, Streamlined Modern and Chinoiserie in the
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same room, nor is she averse to mixing textures and materials such as velvet, gold leaf, tortoise shell, buffalo horn, stainless steel and glass, among others, resulting in her own kind of decorative anarchy. “All of my interiors are fun, yet still sophisticated and elegant; they are spirited and soulful and full of elements that are raw and refined,” says Wearstler, whose stamp is on countless boutique hotels and residential estates as well as Bergdorf Goodman’s signature restaurant, BG, in New York City. Currently the effervescent designer is at work on a new luxury hospitality group’s first hotel property in San Francisco, while also putting the finishing touches on her first collection for The Rug Company and her dinnerware line for Pickard Fine China. “To me there is no place for rigidity in design,” reveals Wearstler, who is fond of what she calls ‘unexpected style.’ “Unexpected style is mixing different periods together, or creating tension in a room with different pieces of furniture and color. Mixing 10 different woods and four different fabrics creates something truly unexpected. But if you know what you’re doing, it can look very seamless and pleasing to the eye,” she maintains. he daughter of an engineer and a wannabe interior designer, Wearstler grew up surrounded by beautiful and unusual objects, textures and colors. “My home was always in a state of flux; I’d come home from school and the living room would be an entirely different color,” she says, referring to this constant evolution of style as a rhapsody, coincidentally also the name of her new book for Rizzoli. “Rhapsody is about a bunch of things, different periods, scales and textures, coming together to create a beautiful space,” she explains. “I’ve always wanted to inspire people to take risks and to create environments that feel spirited.” Wearstler’s signature is always apparent in her works—if you know where to look. “I would say my signature is sculpture. But they are usually very modern, not fussy,” she says. “I like animals and figures and busts. Those are my favorite accessories because they bring a human element to a space. Furniture brings a human element as well, but for me, I just love animals: they add surprise. So in the Viceroy Hotel in Palm Springs, for instance, I put greyhounds in all the doors to make it a bit more interesting.” Surprises notwithstanding, great thought and purpose is behind every choice.
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spirits
BESPOKE BOOZE
OPPORTUNITIES FOR SAMPLING FINE AND RARE WHISKIES (OR STORING YOUR OWN COLLECTION), ARE INCREASINGLY POPULAR. BUT THEY DON’T ALWAYS COME CHEAP.
Single malt fans have more options than ever to customize their drinking. By Robert Haynes-Peterson It’s an excellent time for connoisseurs of single malt Scotch whisky. Distilleries are expanding, production is up, with more iterations of fine and rare releases than ever before. For those seeking even more unusual drinking options, a cottage industry of whisky clubs and concierge services has arisen to assist in customizing your whisky experience like never before.
1494 Club: A New Yorkbased whisky club directly targeting high earners, 1494 honors the private social clubs of the 19th century. Founder David Clelland has secured an undisclosed townhouse in Manhattan where members can convene for tastings and curate their personal collections. Founding Members ($175,000) gain access to Scotland distillery and golf course trips via private jet, while Collector memberships ($25,000 and up) also boast many perks. “I wanted to offer an experience, and a lifetime commitment for collectors,” says Clelland.
The Whisky Dog: Founder Nicholas Pollacchi is an affable, stylish young Scotsman who has worked all angles of the whisky trade. What he felt was missing were private tasting events customized to meet a company’s or individual's needs. Meet The Whisky Dog. “We’re all about sitting down with the client and creating the kind of experience they want to create. Is it focused on high-end, rare product, or is it a one-to-one Scotch 101 seminar with younger executives?” asks Pollacchi. In addition to offering a large range of specialty whiskies, Pollacchi can customize events to include extras like fine cigars, a bespoke tailor, food pairings and musical entertainment.
Branded Whisky Clubs: Groups like the Glenlivet Guardians, 1801 Chivas Brotherhood and the Custodians of The Dalmore provide extra perks for your favorite brands. Sign up online and gain access to early releases of new expressions, private tasting events and more. The Glenlivet Guardians, for example, have sole access to the Guardian Single Cask Edition (about $300), and to a three-day "Whisky School" at the Speyside distillery, including the opportunity to bottle your own whisky.
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society of America: This branch of the popular Edinburgh-based Society allows members the opportunity to sample and buy rare single-cask expressions, custom-made for SMWS. Bottles are identified by number (i.e. Cask No 106.18) rather than distillery, to allow the whisky to speak for itself. The date of distillation, number of bottles and tasting notes are printed on each bottle. Membership is $229 (which includes a kit with four sample whiskies), and an annual renewal fee of $60. Members also get discounted admission to tasting events.
books After touring a recent exhibit at The Museum at FIT called Ivy Style, which celebrated the fashion that evolved from the campuses of the Ivy League schools—Brown, Columbia, Cornell, Dartmouth, Harvard, Princeton, U-Penn and Yale—in the early part of the last century, I picked up the accompanying book (also called Ivy Style). In its preface, curator Patricia Mears states that despite the recent recession, apparel brands have been under pressure to produce more collections, more garments per collection and to get into more product categories. The trend doesn’t necessarily mean the items are better... just that there’s more of them. As a result of this overproduction, Mears writes, “I wanted objects that were well made, with real purpose.” She found that designers and other fashion cognoscenti were all returning to the Ivy heritage for “a look that transcends and endures….” In fact, she goes on to differentiate “preppy” from “Ivy” and to show that much of what we take for granted as conservative, classic dressing was, at the time, anti-establishment and revolutionary. Mears shows that “no other university defined Ivy Style as fervently and as beautifully as Princeton in the 1920s and 1930s.” Due in part to its somewhat isolated location, sportswear—clothes literally worn to play sports—became “around-the-clock attire.” Clothes that
we might describe as classic or even stuffy, like tweed suits or white bucks, actually evolved from golf and tennis attire of the time. “Princetonians were also credited with introducing the sport jacket,” appropriating Norfolk hunting jackets by updating the construction and wearing them with unmatched trousers. The relaxed style was then broadcast to the world by the most closely watched celebrity of the day, Prince Edward of York (the Duke of Windsor). Eschewing the formality of court dress that his great-grandmother, Queen Victoria, would have demanded, the Prince became fascinated with this sportive style and elevated it to a whole new level (the subject of an essay in the book by Dr. Peter McNeil, a professor of design history at the University of Technology, Sydney). Particularly after abdicating the throne of England, he popularized wearing relaxed, informal clothes in public settings, including short-sleeved knits, bright colors and tartans... clothing we see today even in office settings. The Ivy Style exhibit bravely showed how modern brands have been influenced by the movement, from Michael Bastian’s trim, preppy looks to Thom Browne’s cutting-edge parodies and, of course, Ralph Lauren’s entire oeuvre. But perhaps to get the best look at the future of men’s fashion, we should return to the college campus. Maybe one day we’ll all be wearing compression-fit T-shirts and drawstring sweatpants to work. On the other hand, if we look to royals like Prince Harry for inspiration, we may be headed to the office completely nude.
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Ivy Style: Radical Conformists by Patricia Mears is published by Yale University Press and The Fashion Institute of Technology.
COURTESY FIT
A SPRIG OF IVY
The hottest trend in menswear is also one of its oldest. By John Jones
www.basler-fashion.com
NEW YORK · PALM BEACH · TORONTO · BERLIN · LONDON · PARIS
travel
A GRAPE NIGHT’S SLEEP LUXE WINERIES THAT ACCOMMODATE BEYOND THE TASTING ROOM. BY SHIRA LEVINE Sleeping where you drink doesn’t necessarily mean you’re a well-pickled grifter, but the warm buzz from a few glasses of pinot noir undoubtedly nudges most of us into a deep rest. When spending a snug few nights within a winery, exclusivity, top-notch amenities and epic landscapes combine to make a sensational bottle taste that much better. We got our teeth red to bring you three of our favorite winery refuges, encouraging you to toss the keys on the mahogany table, stay the night, and wake up to a crisp sparkling white… for breakfast!
CASTELLO DEL TREBBIO IN PONTASSIEVE, ITALY Anyone can drink good wine in Italy, but not everyone can say they’ve clinked glasses and spent the night in a medieval castle. Located atop the San Brigida hills roughly a half-hour from Florence, the castleturned-mansion villa is surrounded by lush grape vines, olive groves and saffron crocuses. Trebbio offers a subtle modernity while respecting history and tradition. (Castles are made of stone and get cold, so central heating and electricity are fêted
where they can be found!) The castle tower that once protected the fortress still stands, but now serves as a welcoming entry. The estate warden, although retired, still greets guests in traditional clothing, and the dungeons with their once murderous hooks remain to hold Chianti hostage in Trebbio’s wine cellar. The cave-like restaurant is a relatively recent addition, whose dishes enhance the celebrated Riesling/pinot grigio blend and the aforementioned Chianti. Built by the Pazzi family, Renaissance-era Florentine bankers, the castle first changed hands in the 14th-century after a bloody clash with the Medici clan. But today, romance is the main focus on Trebbio’s 800 acres. The property hosts many a bride and groom from around the world, as well as those seeking a fairy tale setting for any occasion. The villa is separated into three apartments, each rustic and cozy with its own patio, private garden and swimming pool. (Those who plan to cook or bring a chef should request the one previously occupied by the owners; it has the most modern appliances.) Guests can arrange activities like Italian language courses, painting or cooking classes and horseback riding. Hiking and biking trails lined with chestnut trees and olive groves lead from the villa to the lake and the local village.
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JORDAN WINERY IN HEALDSBURG, CALIFORNIA
MATETIC WINERY IN CASABLANCA VALLEY, CHILE
The picturesque roads that snake through northern California’s wine country don’t just lead to Napa and Sonoma. About an hour northwest is Healdsburg, an insider’s enclave. Filled with fab foodie spots, the town is rich with wineries that reap their fruits from the crossings of the Russian River, Dry Creek and Alexander Valleys. Within that dynamic topography lies the 1,500-acre, family-owned Jordan Winery. Tastings are open to anyone with a palate, but a night’s stay within the 18th century-esque château (actually built 37 years ago for a reported $15 million) is only for oenophiles in Jordan’s loyalty program. Earn reward points through the purchase of two award-winning wines, a cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay that have impressed chefs and sommeliers since 1976. Built by the architects responsible for George Lucas’ Skywalker Ranch, the château includes seven unique rooms, each with high wood-beamed ceilings, red tiled floors and authentic Louis XIII antiques. Below the suites is the regal dining room and Chef Todd Knoll’s kitchen, where he and his hospitality director wife Nitsa marry epicurean innovation with tradition using the freshest ingredients from the plentiful garden outside. Fava greens, cremini mushrooms and haricots verts are just a few of the treats served on Baccarat crystal and Madeira linens to overnight guests like Bono, Pierce Brosnan and Michael Mina. After dinner, the lucky are invited to enjoy a glass (or two) in CEO John Jordan’s private 1920s-style hangar. Besides a bar, pool table and vintage shuffleboard, he keeps his bright yellow piper cub plane and a museum quality collection of World War I and II-era memorabilia on display to dazzle those who wander in.
The Casablanca Valley, a midway point between Valparaiso and Santiago, is a wine region just 11 miles from the water, bathed in cool breezes and morning fogs from the Pacific. The result: a ‘premium cool valley’ where chardonnay and sauvignon blanc vines can thrive. Just southwest of Casablanca is the futuristic-looking Matetic Winery, discreetly tucked into the slope of a hillside within the San Antonio Valley. Pioneering 21st-century enotourism, the avant-garde property features a dramatic oval barrel cellar and two swish tasting rooms replete with a waterfall. Try the organic pinot noir, syrah, sauvignon blanc and chardonnay within the gleaming wood and glass winery, then take a short drive to the elegant yet rustic La Casona. The traditional colonial-style estancia and hacienda is also a working family ranch and vineyard that sits on 27,000 acres hugging the Rosario Valley. The adobe guesthouses are chic and stylish thanks to a 2004 renovation. Seven rooms are each named after a wine and enhanced with a private terrace. They boast four-poster beds, and rich damask curtains that flank windows with views of palm trees and verdant wild gardens (though the views from the swimming pool are some of the most staggering). Dining options include the gourmet restaurant Equilibrio or a private chef who prepares indulgent breakfasts and dinners. Organic and sustainable is the agenda, so guests can expect mostly handcrafted ingredients, from homemade breads and sheep’s milk cheeses to honeys and jams made from grape, fig, papaya and pomegranate trees growing on the land. (There’s even a family-run cheese operation to tour on the property!)
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KEEP ITCLEAN PREVENT YOUR CLOTHES FROM GETTING AS DIRTY AS YOUR BEACH READ. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
oil, that pesky Bain de Soleil); or dye (blueberries, permanent markers) all require different methods of removal. One of the biggest mistakes you can make is attempting to remove the stain yourself. You risk destroying the fabric as well as permanently setting the stain. Your dry cleaner has the expertise to remove most stains, even invisible ones left by perfumes and cologne that can wreak havoc over time. Here are some questions to ask before entrusting a dry cleaner with your fine garments: • Do they send out the garments or clean them on-premise? • Do they wrap specialty buttons to prevent scratching? • Do they hand-iron and offer hand-finishing? • Will they pre-measure and block those expensive Chanel, Brunello Cucinelli or St. John knits to their original shapes so they won’t distort during cleaning? • Do they offer rush services and tailoring? • Is home pickup and delivery available? A couture cleaner will provide all these services. To be on the safe side, always do a trial run with a lessloved garment before committing an important piece to their service. And one last tip: When it comes to suit separates, have both pieces cleaned even if only one needs it so they show the same wear. Until someone invents a virtual wardrobe from which to wipe away life’s mishaps, the best option is to bring your threads to the professionals. Your apparel will thank you.
GETTY 1 / CHRISTIAN ADAMS
practical matters
lathered in SPF 4 Bain de Soleil Orange Gelée while sipping a Gosling’s Bermuda Rum Swizzle poolside is the ultimate way to enjoy a good book on vacation. But this indulgence comes with a price, as evidenced by my friend’s oil-stained designer cover-up. But life is meant to be lived, and unseemly mishaps are bound to happen (if you’re having fun). We all want to prolong the life of an expensive Zegna suit or Chanel dress that has lived through many good times. However, dunking it in the infinity pool isn’t the solution. The best way to protect your investment is to use a reputable dry cleaner who knows how to care for high-end fine designer apparel. As we’ve all discovered, some dry cleaners are better than others. So what makes one superior? A top-notch dry cleaner has a professional relationship with retailers of fine garments and often designers themselves. This helps him identify the fabrics and the best way to clean and ultimately save your expensive garments. Your fine clothing retailer can direct you to the most qualified dry cleaner for the brands they sell. A couture cleaner’s knowledge encompasses the proper way to treat fancy embellishments such as beading, feathers, leather and suede. Discuss with your cleaner what caused the stain to help him or her decide on the proper method for its removal. (Be honest!) Different stains, such as protein-based (dairy, blood); tannins (wine, coffee, etc,); oil-based (butter, car grease, body
Art in the Square
presented by the Southlake W omen’s Club
April 26-28, 2013
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© D. YURMAN 2013
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MALOUF’S FORUM SPRING 2013