SPRING 2012 THE LIFESTYLE
A WALK IN THE
WALLED CITY BOLD, TIMELESS & ROMANTIC STYLE
MITCHELLS RICHARDS MARSHS
$12
THE JACKET THE INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH
2CUUKQP HQT 5KNM
WELCOME
GREETINGS FROM THE MITCHELL FAMILY
LOTS OF STORIES AND A NEWLY REDESIGNED STORE...
SPRINGTIME IS ABOUT GOOD TIMES! At Mitchells Family of Stores, we’re ready for spring! The season of Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, weddings, graduations, holidays and long weekends gives us countless excuses to celebrate the wonderful things in our lives. With so many changes in the world, this spring, our designers are showing their commitment to lightening the mood with clothing that is more spirited, fun and whimsical than ever! We invite you to shake your winter doldrums by getting lost in some of the season’s lighthearted, creative clothing, jewelry and accessories. On the pages that follow, you’ll find just a small sampling of the highly anticipated events happening in our stores and new product arriving for spring. On an exciting note — aside from all of the fun charity and shopping events planned for the East Coast — on the West Coast we have some great news to share. We have taken on the enormous project of fully gutting and renovating Wilkes
Bashford San Francisco. It is one of the most exciting and creative projects we’ve ever been a part of! With the endless commitments we all seem to have today, we want to thank everyone in the community for all of your spectacular support — of our stores and
of our mutual community endeavors. We look forward to dressing you beautifully and to creating many more stories together in the coming season.
The Mitchell Family
COME SEE THE NEW WILKES BASHFORD TOWNHOUSE! We are thrilled to announce that the complete redesign and renovation of our flagship Wilkes Bashford store in the Union Square area of San Francisco is well underway! We are leaving no stone unturned in our efforts to create an iconic San Francisco landmark for generations to come. Working with Gensler, the worlds largest “architect only” firm that happens to be based in San Francisco, the dream is quickly
becoming a reality, with the first floors opening this spring. Carrying the theme of a “Townhouse” throughout the seven floors, the store will feel like customers are being welcomed into a gracious home. Each floor will be an eclectic mix of San Franciscan heritage with a nod to Italy and the places our clothing is from. We look forward to giving you the grand tour of the Townhouse when you’re in the Bay Area!
the2012 townhouse
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell-Namdar MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie CREATIVE DIRECTION
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT
FEATURES
22 A Good Story is Always in Style 32 Jewels of Springtime 46 Happy 100th Oscar Heyman 60 The Legendary House of Graff 72 Temple Turns 25 100 Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant
MITCHELLS/RICHARDS/MARSHS ART DIRECTION & COPY
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
FASHION
48 Suiting: Tailored to Perfection 52 The Jacket 64 Friends & Trends 74 A Walk in the Walled City 86 Denim: Attention-Grabbing Style 90 Accessories 98 Warm Weather. Cool Fabrics. 106 All About Girl Time
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
DEPARTMENTS
4 Welcome Letter 8 Happenings 118 Escapes: Star Treatment 124 Sports: Much Ado About Ankles 130 Essay: Pull it Together 132 At Your Service
Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 12 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2012. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • jFax: 203-8528175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 100186108, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 15, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
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calibre de cartier 1904 MC MANUFACTURE MOVEMENT AS ITS NAME SUGGESTS, THE CALIBRE 1904 MC IS THE EMBODIMENT OF A CENTURY OF CARTIER’S PASSION FOR TECHNICAL EXCELLENCE. FEATURING AN AUTOMATIC MOVEMENT CREATED, DEVELOPED AND MANUFACTURED BY CARTIER, THE CALIBRE DE CARTIER WATCH TAKES THE GREATEST WATCHMAKING TRADITIONS TO MORE STYLISH AND SOPHISTICATED HEIGHTS. 18K PINK GOLD 42 MM CASE. MANUFACTURE SELF-WINDING MECHANICAL MOVEMENT, CARTIER CALIBRE 1904 MC (27 JEWELS, 28,800 VIBRATIONS PER HOUR, DOUBLE-BARREL, BIDIRECTIONAL WINDING SYSTEM), SUBSIDIARY SECOND, DATE APERTURE. FACETED SAPPHIRE SET ON A 18K PINK GOLD HEPTAGONAL CROWN. SILVERED
© 2010 Cartier
OPALINE SNAILED DIAL. SCRATCH-RESISTANT SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL.
AVAILABLE IN WESTPORT ONLY
HHAP HA HAPPENINGS APP AP PPE PP PEN ENNINNGS ENI NGGSS
LUN LLU LUNCHEONS UN & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
CARTIER JEWELED WATCH COLLECTION Just in time for the holidays, Cartier showcased their latest collection, Delicès de Cartier, chez Mitchells. Jars filled with French candies matched the fun name of this new jeweled collection.
SPRING 2012 TRUNK SHOWS & EVENTS
FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF EVENTS, GO TO MITCHELLSTORES.COM
3/3 3/3 3/3 3/10 3/10 3/10 3/10 3/15 3/16 – 3/17 3/17 3/17 3/17 3/17 3/23 – 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/24 3/27 – 3/28 3/30 – 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 3/31 4/5 4/7 4/7 4/7 4/14 4/14 4/21 4/27 – 4/28
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW LORO PIANA WOMEN’S FALL TRUNK SHOW COPPLEY TRUNK SHOW COPPLEY TRUNK SHOW INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS TRUNK SHOW BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW ST. JOHN TRUNK SHOW MICHAEL KORS FALL TRUNK SHOW LUCIANO BARBERA MEN’S TRUNK SHOW SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TRUNK SHOW ST. JOHN TRUNK SHOW HICKEY FREEMAN TRUNK SHOW BRUNELLO CUCINELLI WOMEN’S FALL TRUNK SHOW SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TRUNK SHOW BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW HICKEY FREEMAN TRUNK SHOW LUCIANO BARBERA MEN’S TRUNK SHOW HAMILTON SHIRTS TRUNK SHOW BRUNELLO CUCINELLI WOMEN’S FALL TRUNK SHOW BRUNELLO CUCINELLI WOMEN’S FALL TRUNK SHOW SAMUELSOHN TRUNK SHOW COPPLEY TRUNK SHOW ISAIA TRUNK SHOW INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS TRUNK SHOW DONNA DEGNAN SPRING TRUNK SHOW KITON MEN’S TRUNK SHOW SAMUELSOHN TRUNK SHOW ISAIA TRUNK SHOW ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW INDIVIDUALIZED SHIRTS TRUNK SHOW ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW MICHAEL KORS FALL TRUNK SHOW
MITCHELLS/RICHARDS RICHARDS MARSHS MITCHELLS RICHARDS RICHARDS MARSHS MITCHELLS MITCHELLS MITCHELLS RICHARDS MARSHS MITCHELLS MITCHELLS MARSHS MITCHELLS RICHARDS RICHARDS MITCHELLS/RICHARDS MARSHS RICHARDS MITCHELLS RICHARDS RICHARDS MITCHELLS MARSHS RICHARDS RICHARDS MITCHELLS MITCHELLS/RICHARDS RICHARDS MARSHS RICHARDS
Silver cuffs. Available only at Mitchells and Richards.
Pleated dress in silk shantung. Available only at Mitchells and Richards.
Giant scarves in summer twill. Silk twill scarves. Available only at Mitchells and Richards.
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
PINK AID FASHION SHOW & LUNCHEON Living up to their mission statement, Pink Aid organizers and luncheon participants delivered Compassion Until There’s A Cure.
Clockwise from top right: Deb Placey and her daughter, Caroline; Irene Friedman with her daughter Shari Goldstein and grandson Todd; Iris Falk, with daughters Cindy Saul and Amy Gross; Escada models
Scores of women came together to make a difference at the inaugural Pink Aid Luncheon, which featured guest speaker, ABC News correspondent, Deborah Roberts, an exclusive presentation of the Escada fall 2011 collection and finally, our Celebration of Survivors Fashion Show. One-of-a-kind pink chairs, graciously created and donated by talented local designers, lined the runway throughout the show. Guests later had the opportunity to take home a piece of the day during our silent auction, which included the many exclusive pink chairs. Thanks to everyone who attended and all the local organizations that came out to support this incredible cause, we were able to raise $300,000 for local women in need who are diagnosed with breast cancer.
Save the date for our second annual luncheon on October 4, 2012!
For more information on Pink Aid visit www.pinkaid.org
Event guest speaker, ABC News correspondent and friend, Deborah Robert
A mobile mammography unit funded by Pink Aid and the “Pink Giving Tree� of services
Top to bottom: Guests enjoying an amazing luncheon by Marcia Selden Catering; Guests raising their cards to fund free mammograms and other services by Pink Aid; Some of the many incredible pink chairs designed by local designers and auctioned off for the cause
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
FASHION’S NIGHT OUT COMES TO OUR STORES!
Guests tried their luck while supporting a great cause, raising money for Pink Aid, funding breast cancer support services for local women in need. Filled with surprises, both large and small, our Prize Cranes were quite the catch.
Back in September, the after-hours global shopping extravaganza, Fashion’s Night Out, drew local fashionistas to Mitchells, Richards and Marshs. Each store celebrated in a unique, fun-filled way... Marshs held a full-fledged fall 2011 runway show. Guests nibbled on goodies and enjoyed drinks from Angelic Delights, Prim, Besito & Sapsuckers. Richards partnered with all the local avenue businesses for a runway show down Greenwich Avenue. Thanks to our local models Ginny Hughes and Julie McMahon for representing Richards. You both looked amazing! Back at the store, guests enjoyed more informal modeling, nibbles and drinks from Lolita Cocina & Tequila Bar. Mitchells held informal model presentations throughout the store with nibbles and libations from Sweet Rexie’s, Red Lulu Cocina & Tequila Bar and Blue Lemon. The most fun at Mitchells & Richards was the Designer Prize Crane Machine. Guests paid $5 for chances to win lots of amazing designer-donated items. Lucky winners pulled Hèrmes scarves, Missoni sunglasses, Pucci scarves, Manolo Blahnik shoes, and more. All proceeds went to Pink Aid.
Ginny Hughes and Julie McMahon working the runway on Greenwich Avenue—How great do they look?!
Below: Filled with surprises both large and small, our prize cranes were quite the catch. Guests tried their luck while supporting a great cause: raising money for Pink Aid, funding breast cancer support services for local women in need.Â
Below right: Models presented the best of fall 2011 throughout our stores; Below left: Great food and drinks by lots of wonderful local bars and restaurants
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
greenwich
YIGAL AZROUEL & IRENE NEUWIRTH TRUNK SHOWS & PERSONAL APPEARANCES
Guests turned out for an afternoon with designers Irene Neuwirth and Yigal Azrouel, who came together to celebrate the launch of their latest collections at Richards. Irene’s incredible jewels were a perfect match to Yigal’s sexy spring collection. Informal models wowed as the crowd nibbled on delicacies and tried on colorful jewels.
STELLA McCARTNEY
WESTPORT
NEW DESIGNER LAUNCH
Celebrating the latest addition to our women’s department at Mitchells, guests noshed on a modern day English tea, and shopped the new Stella McCartney fall and spring collections. In addition to our representatives from Stella, they brought in an in-house stylist to assist customers to better appreciate the designer’s vision and learn great wardrobing tips.
YOU ARE CORDIALLY INVITED TO A PRIVATE EVENING OF HOLIDAY SHOPPING TO BENEFIT
WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 7TH 6:00 - 9:00 PM MARSHS 270 MAIN STREET HUNTINGTON
COLD SPRING HARBOR LABORATORY GIFT GIVING EVENT
In celebration of the holidays, and in support of Cold Spring Harbor Laboratory, guests turned out for a fun evening, and shopped for a great cause. Fashion and fundraising... two of our favorite things!
kwiat.com r earring from the Kwiat Vintage Collection
A GOOD STORY IS ALWAYS IN STYLE... Do the stories make the store or does the store make the stories? Whatever it is, keep them coming! We love being a place where people congregate, lasting friendships are made and stories are born. On the pages to come, we share some more of our favorites...
from: Bob Mitchell [Since 1991] to: stories@mitchellstores.com subject: Lessons from My Grandfather I feel so lucky that I had the opportunity to work with my grandfather. As a kid, we came in Sundays to clean the store. My job was picking pins out of the carpet, so they wouldn’t get stuck in the vacuum. There are two things he taught me I’ll never forget. One is “always make customers feel like guests in your home” and the other is “always buy blue, everyone looks good in blue.” And as you can see, look what I’m wearing today...
We want to hear your story. Email us at stories@mitchellstores.com.
from: Charles Valenti [Customer of Richards/Frank Gallagi Since 1972] to: stories@mitchellstores.com subject: Cake or No Cake? I’ve been working with Frank since wandering into Richards almost 40 years ago. I always joke with him that I’m still looking for the perfect tie. At this point, we’re starting to look alike... we’re even the same exact size. If I can’t make it in to the store, Frank can try things on for me. Neither of us is allowed to gain or lose weight without consulting the other!
STYLE+ STORIES S I N C E
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from: Marilyn Wallack [Associate, Mitchells Since 2001] to: stories@mitchellstores.com subject: A Spring in Her Step I consider myself a stylist, not a salesperson. My job is to know what looks best on a woman’s body. If a client comes in for a suit, I set up a room of my picks from all of our stores... plus I bring in underpinnings, pants to go with the jackets and mix in pieces she already owns. I don’t have to sell at all. When she gets that twinkle in her eye and spring in her step, the clothing sells itself.
We want to hear your story. Email us at stories@mitchellstores.com.
from: Steve Kerman [Associate, Marshs Since 1969] to: stories@mitchellstores.com subject: Style By Numbers Colleen and I make house calls to help men organize their wardrobes. First we pull out the clothes they can donate to charity and then we create outfits and code them by number... actually writing numbers inside each piece. Suit or jacket “1” is matched with tie “1b,” shirt “1c” and so on. Next, we make a list of pieces needed to complete outfits. From Manhattan to Montauk and from CEOs to construction workers, men love our cheat sheets!
STYLE+ STORIES S I N C E
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from: Phuong Heitz [Tailor, Mitchells Since 1979] to: stories@mitchellstores.com subject: The 101-Year-Old Fashionista We have a client who shops for her 101-year-old grandmother, who lives on Central Park. Her grandmother needed a tailor, so Carmella and I went in to see her. She met us at the elevator, stunningly dressed in heels, looking half her age! Now we send her clothes, she picks what she likes and I fit them from her measurements and send them back. I’m so inspired by her, I think of her everyday!
We want to hear your story. Email us at stories@mitchellstores.com.
from: Temple St. Clair [Designer/Friend Since 1999] to: stories@mitchellstores.com subject: Making Magic My studio has become an extension of the Mitchells’ world. They’ll bring clients down to create something truly bespoke. I’ve called in stones from Germany, Brazil and Hong Kong, including a very rare paraiba tourmaline, almost the color of tropical waters. Together, we stop at nothing to find the treasure that hits just the right chord. We strive to create magic!
STYLE+ STORIES S I N C E
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from: Linda Huston [Customer/Friend Since 2000] to: stories@mitchellstores.com subject: Time for... Everyone I am moved by how supportive the Mitchell family is of causes that are important to their customers. When I was new to the area, the people at Richards really helped me feel welcome in the community. Last year, I asked Scott to get involved with Time for Lyme and with his help, we raised almost one million dollars! P.S. We’ll let you know when the next event is...
We want to hear your story. Email us at stories@mitchellstores.com.
W W W. E S C A DA . C O M
www.brunellocucinelli.it
Castel del Monte - Andria
FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC STILL LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY: RILEY+RILEY
JEWELS OF SPRINGTIME MOTHER’S DAY, BIRTHDAYS, EVERYDAY... ADD SOME BLING TO YOUR SPRING! In celebration of spring, we’ve been buying some of the finest jewelry the world has to offer... to bring our customers spectacular collections worthy of life’s grandest occasions! Whether you’re looking for an heirloom-quality piece for a landmark anniversary or casual jewelry to brighten up your spring wardrobe, this season, our jewelry is sure to make your heart pound every time you put it on. Bigger, bolder, brighter, more captivating... It’s time to have some sparkling fun!
FROM THE RED CARPET TO OUR CASES: INTRODUCING FRED LEIGHTON! Fred Leighton is world famous for extraordinary collections of vintage and estate jewelry from the greatest design periods of the 19th and 20th centuries. Ranging from the Victorian era to Art Deco and from retro to modern masterpieces, the Fred Leighton Collection features beautiful works and signed pieces by the great makers in jewelry history. We are thrilled to be offering a handpicked selection of some of Fred Leighton’s most exciting pieces, many of which offer a level of craftmanship and exceptional value that is impossible to match with newly created pieces.
FRED LEIGHTON Left: Art Deco Diamond Collections by designers including Cartier, Bulgari and Van Cleef & Arpels; Right: Mid-Century gold, diamond and enamel bracelets by David Webb.
FRANK ANCONA Assorted colorful cocktail rings, featuring peridot, green tourmaline, rubelite, sapphire, amethyst, emerald, ruby, mint green tourmaline and aquamarine. All in 18k yellow gold.
H. STERN Assorted rings from the Copernicus Collection, the Moonlight Crystal Collection and the Stars Collection. Featuring diamonds and rock crystal, set in 18k Noble Gold.
COCKTAIL RINGS VIBRANTLY COLORFUL. OVERSIZED. VINTAGE-INSPIRED. CELESTIAL. AND UTTERLY FABULOUS.
DANGLY DANGLES MAKE AN UNFORGETTABLE STATEMENT WITH EARRINGS THAT SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES.
Clockwise from top: KATHLEEN DUGHI Citrus earrings with citrines and black diamonds in 18k gold. TEMPLE ST. CLAIR Hera three-drop earrings with mixed garnet and diamonds, in 18k gold. PAOLO COSTAGLI Handcrafted 18k gold earring tops, paired with faceted amber drops from the Brillante Collection.
KIMBERLY MCDONALD Earrings with natural mixed-cut diamonds in 18k white gold; Ring with crystal opal, light brown diamond and handcarved natural lavendercolored sapphires in hand-made 18k white gold.
GURHAN 24k gold and blackened silver bangles, featuring pink topaz, blue topaz, fancy sapphire, rutilated quartz and vesuvianite.
BRACELETS ARE MEANT TO BE SEEN... AND HEARD! THE BIGGER, BOLDER AND THE CLANKIER, THE BETTER.
Clockwise from top: PAOLO CASTAGLI Snake bracelet with white diamonds and 18k yellow gold. Jeweled bracelets, featuring black diamonds, black rhodium, peridots and 18k gold. KATHLEEN DUGHI: Diamond and 18k gold Turbinio “wave” bangles.
SPARKLY BANGLES
LET OUR DIAMOND SPECIALISTS SHOW YOU THE NEWEST & MOST EXCITING WAYS TO SHOW YOUR LOVE!
Come see our magnificent diamond jewelry from designers including Graff, Kwiat, Beaudry and our signature diamond collection. Earrings, bracelets, necklaces and wedding rings, set in platinum, 18k white or yellow gold. Make an appointment to view collections or work with one of the world’s top diamond houses to design the piece of your dreams!
DIAMONDS! STILL & ALWAYS A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND.
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BOSS Black
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600
ANNIVERSARIES
Q & A WITH ADAM HEYMAN
HAPPY 100th, OSCAR HEYMAN! THE FAMED MAKER OF MUSEUM-QUALITY JEWELRY CELEBRATES A CENTURY. How did their experience at Fabergé influence their vision and creations? They learned many skills at Fabergé, most notably: how to work with platinum; the science of gemology; how to cut stones; and how to design with color. We were among the first jewelers to use platinum in America. Although we never made “eggs” and we have our own signature look, we, too, are known for our mosaics and for “painting with gemstones.”
Why do you work mostly with precious colored gemstones rather than diamonds? Tell us a little about Oscar Heyman, the man. Oscar, my uncle, was one of nine children, born in Latvia in the late 1800s. He and his brother Nathan were granted an apprenticeship at the legendary House of Fabergé in Russia from 1901 to ’06. They traveled to Kharkov to the Fabergé atelier. After five years, they set sail for New York. Their parents wanted them to have a new life in the United States. They arrived in 1906 and started the business in 1912. Oscar was not the oldest, but he was the star... a true impresario. All five of his brothers and two of his three sisters worked for “Oscar Heyman & Brothers.” My father, George, was the youngest.
We are known for creating “art” with gemstones and believe that colored stones give jewelry great style and character. Beyond our work with classic sapphires, emeralds and rubies, we work with many “esoteric” precious gems, including star sapphires, star rubies, catseyes, alexandrites, Australian opals and aquamarine. Our pieces are for true jewelry aficionados and collectors... connoisseurs who understand gems. About 20% of our work is with diamonds, but mostly as accent stones.
How has the company evolved over the past century? In many ways, we are “old world.” We train
our own lapidaries (stone cutters), similarly to the European model of apprenticeship, and utilize many of the techniques that my uncles learned at Fabergé, which had been around for hundreds of years, even then. But of course, we have added the newest machinery and lasers to make our stone cutting completely state-of-the-art.
Which are some of the jewelry houses you’ve created jewelry for? For most of our first hundred years, we designed for Cartier, Tiffany, Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels. We didn’t start to make jewelry under our own name until the 1970s. Every piece we have ever designed has been issued a serial number and our pieces, designed for those houses, frequently come up for auction. We often have people from Sotheby’s and Christie’s coming here to authenticate a piece we created. We’ve made pieces for countless celebrities and historical figures through those houses. One of our favorite stories is from 1969, when Richard Burton bought a 69-carat diamond and we were commissioned to design a setting for it. Ms. Taylor chose a design we drew with over 50 graduated pearshaped diamonds, which we hadn’t even sourced, and we had a week to finish it for an event in Europe! We worked day and night for six days and on the seventh day, we rested!
Where do your gemstones come from? My father started traveling to mines in the 1950s and in 1976, I started going to sapphire and ruby mines in Sri Lanka and Thailand. I buy stones as they’re newly mined. It’s best to get fresh picks! We bring them back and our lapidaries refacet them to bring out the greatest color, brilliance and clarity. Of course, we buy from top site holders and dealers as well.
“IN 1969, RICHARD BURTON BOUGHT ELIZABETH TAYLOR A WORLD-FAMOUS 69-CARAT DIAMOND AND COMMISSIONED US TO DESIGN THE SETTING. SHE CHOSE A DESIGN WITH OVER 50 PEAR-SHAPED DIAMONDS!”
“WE LOVE WORKING WITH COLORED PRECIOUS STONES, BECAUSE THEY’RE ARTISTIC AND LESS MAINSTREAM. IN MOST OF OUR RINGS, A DIAMOND IS NOT THE CENTER STONE.” What are your goals for the next 100 years? To build the Oscar Heyman brand globally as the top name for the world’s finest, museumquality jewelry being made from precious and precious esoteric gemstones. Of course, we already have a century of collectable pieces to prove it, so it shouldn’t be that hard.
What have you found special about working with the Mitchells Family of Stores? Like the Heymans, the Mitchells are a family business now in its second and third generation of operation. We understand each other and have a tremendous relationship of mutual respect. I’m “G2” (second generation) like Jack and Bill, because my father had siblings that were old enough to be his parents. The Mitchells learn from their fathers and then bring in their own new thinking, just like we do. Their jewelry specialists understand our artistry and their customers recognize true value and quality.
suiting
Zegna suits in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring
TAILORED TO PERFECTION
100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETS MODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL 48
2012 is an exquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say, took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just in time for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniversary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waist and natural, semi-constructed shoulders. Like all Zegna suits this season, the new Milano, available in both single and doublebreasted, is interpreted in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun, with an ever-so-slight sheen reminiscent of sharkskin clothing from the 1950s. But the Milano is tailored with a decidedly modern sensibility. The jacket is cut slightly shorter and features just a hint more interior canvas— as many as three layers— for structure, yet the
CORINTH COLLECTION
Heirloom quality For daily wear.
Laura Beaudry, Beaudry International, Inc. Š 2012.
finished garment remains remarkably lightweight. The defining element is the barchetta, or boat-shaped breast pocket, a sewing detail that can only be achieved by hand. Initially a cloth producer and later a suit and sportswear maker, Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) has perfected the art of lighter-than-air suit making like no other designer label in history. The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand not only constructs all of its own suits in factories around the world (prompting the company to introduce the slogan ‘Made in Zegna’), but the family-owned company has pioneered everything from the technically advanced fabrics used to make its suits to the su mesura, or made-to-measure, concept often employed to sell them.
W
HAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-
cially the made-to-measure variety—can only be answered by slipping into one. Each piece is a labor of love tailored to your exact specifications, in the fabric of your choice. You can select the number of pockets, the direction of the pleats on your trousers and even the buttons and whether or not they work. Moreover, it will be made with such attention to detail that your every physical anomaly—from sloping shoulders and a thrown back to a hollow chest or an enlarged abdomen—is actually masked by the finished garment. (Buying one of these suits is a far better option than going under the doctor’s knife.) You may never need to visit your tailor again. “By the time a made-to-measure suit is complete over 500 hands will have touched it and more than 7,000 hand stitches will have been used to create it,” explains image director Anna Zegna. Zegna workers have a hand in every step, from shearing the sheep through the processing of the fiber into yarn (and then fine fabrics), to the cutting and sewing of every jacket using a combination of modern machinery and hand finishing. “The perfect fit of a Zegna suit comes from constructing it with 100 pieces; the lining alone comprises 12 separate components,” adds Zegna. After each piece is precision cut, it passes through the hands of hundreds of tailors, whose singular purpose is to turn one-dimensional pieces of cloth into a three-dimensional garment worthy of the most discriminating clien-
tele. The waistband, fly and belt loops on a pair of trousers can require more than 20 workers, and it takes the efforts of another 24 tailors to construct the sleeves of a jacket; nearly 190 sewers are involved in creating the body of a single jacket. Even the act of sewing a simple buttonhole “can take an eternity of careful cutting and stitching,” says Zegna. Once the fabric has been cut, corresponding pieces are carefully bundled and passed down to the tailors and sewers to construct the garment, which can take as long as four days to wind its way through the 110-step production cycle. Upon completion each suit undergoes an arduous pressing process performed by dozens of workers: six to press the slacks and another 22 to press and handiron the jacket before it receives its final inspection. If the finished garment meets the company’s lofty standards, it is literally given the Zegna seal of approval as the signature logo is sewn in place.
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THE SECRET of a Zegna suit isn’t just the meticulous way it’s put together, but the innovative cloth used to make it. The company’s founder and namesake, Ermenegildo Zegna, began as a fabric maker in 1910 with the creation of a natural wool weighing roughly 350 grams per square meter, considered featherweight by early 20th-century standards. Today, most Zegna fabrics weigh in at a fraction of that and include such technical advances as Trofeo, a worsted wool made of prestige Australian superfine merino wool with long fibers for added strength and resiliency, and the latest 13milmil13, a vicuna-like fabric made from merino yarns measuring less than 13 microns. (To appreciate how exceptional this is, one need only reflect on the fact that a human hair measures roughly 50 to 60 microns.) The development of such fine micron wools is the result of Zegna’s 1963 initiative, the Vellus Aureum trophy, which motivates and awards Australia and New Zealand’s sheep farmers who produce these ultra-fine wools. Pioneering fabrics for spring include Zero Weight, a blend of superfine merino wool and silk with a yarn count of 600—the finest silk quality in the world. The company is also moving forward with last year’s Cool Effect, in which fine Australian wool is finished to enable dark fabrics to reflect heat like light-colored ones. The result: a cloth that keeps the wearer 10 degrees cooler than if he were wearing an untreated fabric. “Fabric represents Zegna’s heritage and it’s the primary focus of our innovation,” says Anna Zegna, noting that the brand offers more than 700 cloth options, including 200 new fabrics each season, as part of its made-to-measure suit service. Over the course of the company’s 100-year history, “Zegna has invented over 20 unique and innovative fabrics in various colors, patterns and textures, which have become staples of our collection.”
YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...
The Jacket THE ULTIMATE “FINISHING TOUCH” & THE KEY TO THE WELL-DRESSED MAN.
Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket. A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential finishing touch for a put-together casual look.
Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfinished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and
styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fiber” designed to beat the heat, a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis, even your favorite shorts!
SOPHISTICATED
JACKET 101 101:1: EASIEST THE EASIES ST ADD WAY TO AD DD STYLE ANDD ELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUAL CASUAL LOOK EVERYDAY LOOK.
SIMPLE
MEMORABLE
DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF THINKING THAT JUST BECAUSE IT’S WARM YOU DON’T NEED A JACKET.
FORGETTABLE
SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON OR CASHMERE... A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCE AND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.
JACKET “NOT OPTIONAL” — AN UNJACKETED SHIRT & TIE MAY BE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.
ARTSY
PUT A GREAT JACKET OVER A CASUAL SHIRT AND YOU’RE READY FOR A WINE TASTING OR ART SHOW.
SLOPPY
BUTTON UP YOUR OVERCOAT... A WELL- MADE JACKET TAKES YOU JUST ABOUT EVERYWHERE!
The Ermenegildo Zegna 10-Pocket Blazer
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC. STYLING: WENDY MCNETT FOR AGENT OLIVER. GROOMING: TREVOR BOWDEN FOR BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI
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THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE TRAVELS LIKE A PRO & TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.
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DIAMONDS
BRINGING THE WORLD TO OUR CUSTOMERS
THE LEGENDARY HOUSE OF GRAFF “It has been a lifelong passion — I remember my first diamond and looking inside the stone and being fascinated. This wonder has stayed with me,” says Graff founder Laurence Graff. Since starting out as a jewelry apprentice in 1960s London, this passion has led Graff to build one of the most prestigious diamond empires in the world. Headquartered today in Mayfair, London, all Graff jewels are made by hand, from the creation of the design to the immaculate setting. Each piece requires many hours of work, some several hundred hours.
Mitchells and Richards are fortunate to be able to work closely with Graff to bring an impeccable selection of their diamonds and offer Graff’s unsurpassed eye and craftsmanship to our customers! Our diamond experts are extremely knowledgeable about Graff diamonds, including the extraordinary selection of
rare diamonds and diamonds of color. We are eager to share this knowledge with our customers. Ask about Graff Diamonds at our jewelry counters or call for an appointment with a Diamond Specialist in our private jewelry showroom.
DIAMONDS “STEEPED IN MYTH AND HISTORY” It has been said that more important diamonds have passed through Laurence Graff’s hands than any other “diamantaire.” Some are centuries old and steeped in myth and history, while others
have just been discovered and brought to life in Graff’s workshop. Some of the most famous Graff diamonds include The Lesotho Promise, 15th largest diamond in the world; the Light of Letseng, which yielded The
Graff Constellation, the world’s largest round brilliant D Internally Flawless at 102.79 carats; and the 23.88ct Flawless Graff Pink, said to be the finest pink diamond in the world!
KATE WINSLET
Experience the whole story at DISCOVERSTJOHN. COM
“JEWELRY THIS SPRING IS CREATIVE AND ARTISTIC AND ALL ABOUT MAKING A STATEMENT. LONGER, LAYERED NECKLACES OR SHORT ONES WITH LARGE PENDANTS, CHUNKY RINGS AND BRACELETS AND EARRINGS YOU CAN SEE!
”
Michelle Romano Jewelry Specialist Mitchells
friends trends
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YOUR FAVORITE SPECIALISTS PICK THEIR FAVORITE TRENDS FOR THE SEASON. Lifestyle Photography: Sergio Kurhajec. Still Life Photography: Riley + Riley
friends trends
& Linda Rait Michael Kors Specialist Richards
All by Michael Kors: 1. Light Cashmere Sweater 2. Calfskin Belt 3. White Tank with Gold Trim 4. Zebra Print Mini Skirt 5. Cashmere Blouson Top
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“SAFARI + CITRUS”
MICHAEL KORS IS SHOWING A LOT OF FUN, SAFARI-INSPIRED CLOTHING... ZEBRA PRINTS, KHAKIS AND NEUTRALS WITH POPS OF HOT PINK, CHARTREUSE AND OTHER BRIGHT COLORS.
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friends trends
&
Carmella Roach
All by Brunello Cucinelli:
Brunello Cucinelli Specialist Mitchells
1. Two-Tone Sandal 2. Spring Trench 3. Multi-Strand Necklace 4. Cropped Sweater 5. Messenger Bag
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“THE BRUNELLO LIFESTYLE”
WHITES AND IVORIES ARE ACCENTED BY PALE YELLOW, NAVY, CORAL AND GERANIUM. BRUNELLO IS A WHOLE LIFESTYLE. HE’S DOING TRENCHES, CLOTHING, SHOES, SCARVES, OUTERWEAR... EVEN JEWELRY! ALL IN HIS SIGNATURE ORGANIC TONAL COLORS.
friends trends
“DRESS ITALIAN” CANALI’S SUITS ARE AS WELL-MADE AS ITALY’S FINEST LINES AND OFFER EXCEPTIONAL VALUE. CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES ARE MODERN ITALIAN CLASSICS AND THE SPRING PALETTE IS STUNNING AND SOPHISTICATED!
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1. Ermenegildo Zegna Pocket Squares 2. Canali Gray Suit 3. Ermenegildo Zegna Linen Shirts 4. Canali Navy Blazer
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Jim Foley
Canali Specialist Marshs
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Joe Biondi
Hickey Freeman Specialist Richards
friends trends
& “MADE IN AMERICA” WITH A BRAND NEW DESIGN TEAM ON BOARD, HICKEY FREEMAN’S SPRING LINE IS THE BEST OF AMERICAN-MADE MENSWEAR. WHETHER YOU’RE A NEW FAN OR HAVE BEEN WEARING HICKEY FOR YEARS, IT’S TIME TO LOOK AGAIN!
friends trends
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“SUMMER CLASSIC”
SHERBET ORANGES, BLUES AND PINKS, WITH A SECONDARY FOCUS ON WHITES AND NEUTRALS. RALPH IS FOR THE QUINTESSENTIAL AMERICAN CLASSIC DRESSER. HIS GREAT COLORS AND FLIRTY DRESSES ARE PERFECT FOR LONG ISLAND’S BEACH COMMUNITIES!
1. Ralph Lauren Cable Sweater 2. Ashley Pittman Cuffs 3. Ralph Lauren Short 4. Cole Haan Cork Pump 5. Rebecca Minkoff Striped Bag
1. Laurie Palladino
Women’s Store Manager Marshs
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Gary Barrows Agave Specialist Mitchells
1. Agave Supima Polo 2. John Varvatos Boot 3. Agave Supima Sueded Jersey 4. Agave Jeans
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“EARTH-FRIENDLY COMFORT” AGAVE CONTINUES TO WOW WITH THEIR INCREDIBLY COZY, WEST COAST-MADE CLOTHING. THEIR ECO-FRIENDLY FIBERS AND SOFT WASHED COLORS ARE GREAT LOOKING AND MAKE EVERY DAY FEEL LIKE SUNDAY.
ANNIVERSARIES
TEMPLE ST. CLAIR’S 25TH
TEMPLE TURNS 25! TEMPLE ST. CLAIR ON MAGIC ALLEYS, ANCIENT CULTURES & HOW ALL THINGS CONNECT... the rest is history. I still work with that hat same studio in Florence; they’re like family. ly.
What inspires you most? Cultural connections between all off the rt to arts... from performing arts to fine art onnect. architecture. I love how all things connect. ank Nothing is in isolation. I look at Frank Lloyd Wright and see Zen Buddhism. Etruscan art connects to India and China and the migration of tribes. I love cultural anthropology. People have always worn jewelry, from the caveman to the rapper. Jewelry is always a sign of the times... a statement about what is meaningful.
From an anthropological/jewelry perspective, how will our times go down in history? How did you get started? I’ve always fancied myself an adventurer and explorer. When I was finishing grad school in Florence, where I studied Italian Renaissance literature, my mother and I went into a numismatic antiquarian shop and found a rare 4th-century BC Carthaginian coin. She gave me the task of making it into a piece of jewelry. Searching for a goldsmith in the back alleys of Florence led me into a magical world of artistry, history and culture. I started making jewelry from old coins and selling them to sustain my passion, never with the intention of starting a business. Someone from Barneys saw my pieces and offered to sell them in a case with my name on it... and
I’ve found that when times are shakier, personal connections and things held close to the heart like charms and amulets are more important. People want jewelry to have more meaning and value. I create pieces of great quality, with a rarity of gemstones and craftsmanship. Mine is a slow process and my pieces are meant to be timeless, modern classics. People want more important pieces.
What are the top milestones of your 25 years? Moving back from 12 years in Italy, meeting my husband and having my sons are the most significant. I have a little house in the East Village... I’ve loved making my home there. In 2008, Harper Collins published my book Alchemy. To write a book and have it
reviewed in The New York Times was big for me. And my 25th itself. I was recently inducted into the Accessories Hall of Fame. Jewelry has been this incredible vehicle for me. It’s given a context to all I love to study and do.
What are your goals for the next 25? As I learn more about craftsmanship, my jewelry has become more refined and I’m doing more bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces. I want to make my mark and define my own place in the history of jewelry. I also plan to collaborate more with friends who are various kinds of artists.
What causes are you passionate about? My husband works with me. We’re both passionate about education in the arts and support New York Live Arts. I’m also passionate about the environment, particularly issues involving the ocean. I’m a spokesperson for Too Precious to Wear, which advocates the non-wearing of coral, which is essential to our ecosystem. If not stopped, it will lead to world hunger.
What’s your favorite personal piece of jewelry? I am never without my rock crystal amulets. But my “thesis” is a pendant called the Tolomeo after the 1st-century astronomer, Ptolemy. It extols the ancient theory that Earth is the center of universe. It’s rather complex with astrological glyphs and Latin engravings. It’s humorous and whimsical.
Any great stories of celebrities in your jewelry? I don’t pursue celebrities to wear my jewelry, but I love when they choose it on their own. Years ago, I designed wedding rings for Ted Danson and Mary Steenburgen. Last spring, I was at an event and Julia Roberts showed up in blue
“PEOPLE HAVE ALWAYS WORN JEWELRY, FROM THE CAVEMAN TO THE RAPPER. JEWELRY IS A SIGN OF THE TIMES, A STATEMENT ABOUT WHAT’S MEANINGFUL.”
moonstone earrings and a necklace of mine, looking great. At the Accessories Hall of Fame awards, Cynthia Nixon presented in my jewelry. I love that she wears it. She’s a fellow New Yorker... down to earth, talented and passionate about education. She’s a true artist, very real.
Who’s the best designer to pair with your jewelry? Brunello Cucinelli is an amazing line. His clothing has great synergy with my jewelry... the same values: great quality, subtle elegance, an in-the-know brand. A fellow artisan of Italy!
Describe your relationship with the Mitchells. I’ve been with them 16 years. I was an early part of their jewelry business. Linda and Jack were my first points of contact and I’ve grown up with Bob and Scott. We have a lot of synergy and shared values about quality and, of course, customer service. We’re a very good fit, philosophically.
On Him: Jacket by Hugo Boss, shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, pants by AG and pocket square by Dion. On Her: Jacket, top, pant and handbag by Brunello Cucinelli.
HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING
SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT
CASBA
PHOTOGRAPHY
a walk in the walled city
The ancient Moroccan city of Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, and location for the film Lawrence of Arabia – provides the perfect canvas for the bold, romantic and timeless looks of spring 2012...
THIS PAGE
On Him: Jacket by CP Company, shirt by Eton, tie by Isaia, pants and shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. On Her: Dress by Emilio Pucci and shoes by Roberto Cavalli. OPPOSITE
Polo shirt by Raffi, button-down by Hugo Boss.
THIS PAGE
Jacket by Isaia, shirt by Allegri, pants by Hugo Boss and shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. OPPOSITE PAGE
Jacket by Corneliani, shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, tie by David Donahue and jeans by AG.
citrus + spice | strong solids | pops of pink
THIS PAGE
Dress by Rachel Zoe. OPPOSITE PAGE
Shirt by Isaia, sweater by CP Company, pants by Boss Orange and belt by Crookhorn.
THIS PAGE
Dress by Lela Rose. OPPOSITE PAGE
Shirt by Isaia, jacket by Canali.
S romantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes
THIS PAGE
Dress and shoes by Givenchy. OPPOSITE PAGE
Suit by Hugo Boss, shirt by Eton, and scarf by Kiton.
denim
ATTENTION-GRABBING
STYLE
AG JEANS WILL GET YOU NOTICED. BY ELISE M. DIAMANTINI HO ISN’T SEARCHING for the perfect jeans, a pair that is both comfortable and sexy? Seemingly impossible standards for most brands to live up to… but AG isn’t most brands. Mixing that form-fitting silhouette with a lived-in feel is what makes AG denim the hottest on the market. The company launched in 2001 as a collaboration between Mr. Yul Ku and “the Godfather of denim” Adriano Goldschmied. (Ku owns 30-year-old Koos Manufacturing, one of the world’s premier denim factories; Goldschmied co-founded Diesel.) The two parted amicably in 2004 and the brand has been on the up-and-up since Ku’s son Sam became design director in 2006. AG manufactures everything in its own
400,000 sq. ft. facility in Los Angeles, employing over 1,000 workers. The amount of time and personal attention that goes into each pair is astonishing: from handsanding and oven-baked whiskering to new eco-friendly laser technologies that help create that perfect vintage look. “We control every step because we’re a vertical operation,” Sam says. “We don’t take shortcuts, or try to save a few cents here and there with cheaper fabrics or trims. We really care about the product and want our consumer to look and feel good in our jeans.” Premium fabrics are sourced from Japan and Italy, many of which are exclusive to the brand. Recently, AG has also impressed with its non-denim styles, like
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super-soft pima cotton cords. In denim and other fabrics alike, Sam highlights colored bottoms as one of spring 2012’s hottest trends. Men should try muted colors like sand and charcoal, while women can experiment with a more diverse range: dusty shades of rose and gray, and saturated brights like electric blue and raspberry. The brand has garnered frequent press attention thanks to its many celebrity devotees, including power couple Gavin Rossdale and Gwen Stefani, and Academy Award nominee Anne Hathaway. But Sam gets most excited when he sees someone—anyone—walking down the street in a pair he designed. “For me, that will never get old!”
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! 7ลง ! ลง -0 ลง+- ย #7! ลงลงลงลงConveniently located Exit 35 off of I-95 or Exit 54 off of the Merritt Parkway
ยฌลง.w?wLย iQย wZLย swลง ?H[d[wย ยฌลง ifqd[fLgw?sย ลง i?gLsลง6LZ[HdLt* ยฌลง - ลง6?dLwลง+[Hcxqลง?gJลง Ld[}Lsย *ลง ยฌลง ?Hwisย ลง0s?[gLJลง0LHZg[H[?gt One of the areaโ s largest selection of new and certified pre-owned vehicles. *Available for scheduled service appointments.
accessories
FUN IS IN THE BAG... WHIMSICAL, YET TIMELESS. Accessories this season are taking their cue from fashion. Handbags and shoes are creative, spirited and don’t take themselves too seriously. In handbags, many retro shapes are being seen and the colors are often unexpected. In women’s shoes, the higher the platforms, wedges or stilettos the better, with some ballet flats thrown in for good measure. Men’s shoes are slim, sleek and versatile... transitioning easily from dress to casual.
PHOTOGRAPHY: RILEY + RILEY Clockwise from top left: Valentino, Reed Krakoff, Chloé, Cole Haan
Clockwise from top left: Chloé, Laura Merkin, Brunello Cucinelli, Gucci
BAG A GREAT ONE! THIS SPRING, HANDBAGS ARE MORE PLAYFUL. TRY A NEW SHAPE OR COLOR.
accessories
GREAT FOR DAY INTO NIGHT! From top to bottom: Manolo Blahnik, Lanvin, Reed Krakoff, Jimmy Choo, Guiseppe Zanotti
PUT SOME SPRING IN YOUR STEP!
HEELS THAT SAY “HELLO!”
NIGHTTIME OR PARTY TIME! From top to bottom: Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Valentino, Manolo Blahnik
accessories TWO “RIGHT” FEET! TREAT YOURSELF TO A PAIR OF BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED SHOES.
From top to bottom: Salvatore Ferragamo, John Varvatos, Gucci, Tods, Salvatore Ferragamo
A LITTLE CARE... A LOT OF WEAR!
The 2 most important things to remember: 1. Always keep shoes on a cedar shoe tree. 2. Get shoes polished at least twice per year.
WITH PROPER CARE, A GOOD PAIR OF SHOES WILL LAST MANY YEARS. Taking proper care of quality shoes is the best way to protect your investment and can extend the life of the shoe several-fold. No matter how good the quality, a shoe left to its own devices will show its age way before its time.
4. Meltonian Boot & Shoe Polish Allen Edmonds Premium Shoe Polish
Proper shoe care is very easy and a small price to pay for keeping shoes looking their best!
3. Rochester Shoe Tree
1. shoe horn Using a shoe horn to put on shoes helps preserve the shape and keeps shoes from getting stretched out and suede or leather from getting worn.
A good shoe tree is the single best investment you can make towards caring for your shoes. It must be cedar or other wood to help shoes maintain their shape, as plastic holds moisture, which misshapes shoes. $40
A good shoe polish will not only help with consistency of color, but will contain conditioners to help keep shoes from drying out. Polishing shoes or having them professionally cleaned, polished and shined at least twice each season is essential to proper shoe care.
5. shoe brush Buff out your shoes after a good polish. The best shoe brushes are made with soft horsehair bristles.
2. shoelaces Replacing shoelaces once theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re worn or frayed keeps lace-up shoes looking newer longer.
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T H E
U L T I M A T E
T R O U S E R
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY MACO TESTA
BOB MITCHELL ON WHY YOUR SPRING WARDROBE SHOULD INCLUDE SOME GREAT SEASONAL PIECES...
Warm Weather. Cool Fabrics. S
pring is the time to lighten up! While some clothes in your wardrobe can be “year round,” at least 50 percent should be seasonal. Lighter fabrics — like cottons, silks, seersucker and linen — are cool, comfortable and provide a long-awaited variety, texture and style to your warm weather look. For spring and summer 2012, we’re seeing lots of linen... in shirts, shorts, pants, jackets, suits,
everywhere! Nothing breathes better and is more cooling. Don’t shy away just because it wrinkles. If the piece is beautifully made, wrinkles just add to the look. Take a cue from the Europeans, who wear it all the time! Colors are a bit more vibrant this spring. Mix in some purple, green or orange to liven up your look. Get comfortable. Put the wool in mothballs and bring on the sun!
A sport jacket dresses up a pair of shorts.
Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be afraid to wear some color!
Show your wrinkles... wear linen with confidence.
Cool down with a lightweight sportcoat.
retailing
THE SOUL OF A MERCHANT
IF YOU’RE READING THIS MAGAZINE, you’re likely a customer of one of the finest specialty stores in America, run by one of the nation’s top merchants. In today’s highly competitive retail environment, how do these independents compete with stores many times their size? Bottom line, it’s talent, taste, passion, promotion, business savvy, extraordinary service and lots of hard work! Here, we speak with a few star merchants in the Forum store group (a coalition of America’s top specialty apparel stores) to learn what drives them. Theorizes John Malouf of Malouf’s in
Lubbock, Texas: “We’ve survived by featuring only the best product in each category, and by teaching customers how great they can look in the right clothes.” Adds John Braeger of Garys in Newport Beach, California, “Our secret is buyers who live in the community so they really know their customers: their interests, tastes and lifestyles… Our mix is always on target because our merchants personally know who’s buying it.” Braeger also points out that independents are more willing to take risks than stores that are publicly owned. “We buy
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smaller quantities with more selection, so you’re less likely to see someone in town wearing the same thing. Our goal is to please customers, not shareholders…” On the misconception that clothing costs more in independent stores, Malouf is adamant. “We never charge more! Our prices are based on typical industry margins, but we give customers so much more than great fashion.” Extras include closet makeovers, expert alterations, wardrobe consulting, extended hours, emailed photos of new products as they arrive, rush delivery and many other per-
GETTY 1 ELDER GALVÃO
NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTED SPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Hand Made in Chicago www.oxxfordclothes.com
sonalized services. What’s more, independent merchants often buy designer brands differently than the big stores, working personally with the designers to develop exclusives and fine-tune assortments. Explains Bob White of Hubert White in Minneapolis, “Our advantage is knowing who we’re buying for and combining that personal knowledge with trends in the market. It’s this mix of client and product expertise that separates us from our larger competitors.” Obviously top merchants travel far and wide to find exclusive product: many take eight to 10 trips a year. Says Braeger, “I’d say I spend half the year buying, the other half doing everything else.” Adds Malouf, “We travel regularly to NYC, Dallas, Vegas and Italy, where we work directly with the designers. To me, designing beautiful clothes is analogous to an artist who paints or a musician who composes: it’s creating something of beauty and lasting value.” On a more pragmatic note, Wally
ROB ERTGR AHA M .US
“STORES THAT SURVIVE ARE CLEARLY THE BEST OF THE BEST.” Naymon from Kilgore Trout in Cleveland points out that by shopping at locally owned specialty stores rather than national chains, 80 percent of the money spent stays in the community. But more importantly, says Naymon, independent retailers are more interested in developing long-term relationships than in making
KNOWLEDGE · WISDOM · TRUTH
the immediate sale (vs. publicly held companies that are pressured to meet monthly goals). “We’re in it for the long haul,” says Naymon. Howard Vogt of Rodes in Louisville says, “We carry only the best labels, and then tweak assortments to our customers’ lifestyles, our climate, regional events like The Kentucky Derby, etc. It’s a very personalized mix you can’t get in the big department stores.” Craig Andrisen, co-owner of Andrisen Morton in Denver, believes it’s all about relationships. He points out that “employees who are respected, rewarded and well cared for treat their customers the same way.” Adds his business partner Dave Morton, “Our philosophy of business is simple: ‘Never say no, always say yes, then go figure it out.’ Exceptional service is always the ultimate goal.” Sums up Bob Mitchell of Mitchells, Richards, Marsh’s and Wilkes Bashford: “Our personalized approach to everything we do, from buying to marketing to service, allows us to give customers more without costing them more.”
Spring 2012
View the rest of the Spring 2012 collection
coppley.com
FLEX APPEAL. BY EQUINOX.
EQUINOX.COM
color blocks Left to Right: Yellow Chiffon Dress by Alberta Ferretti; Green Drawstring Dress by Yigal Azrouel and Blue Fur Coat by Oscar de la Renta; Pink Eyelet Shift Dress by Stella McCartney;
Colorblock Bandage Dress by Herve Leger and Pink Fur Jacket by Oscar de la Renta.
ALL ABOUT
GIRL TIME WHO BETTER TO SHARE YOUR NEW SPRING FINERY WITH THAN... THE GIRLS! HERE, THE LADIES LOUNGE IN SOME OF SPRING’S MOST ALLURING NEW TRENDS.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY STYLED BY
SERGIO KURHAJEC
WENDY MCNETT
FLOWERS ARE NOT JUST FOR THE GARDEN. MAKE A STATEMENT WITH BOLD BLOOMS IN COLORS POWERED BY THE SUN.
bold
florals Left to Right: White Dress w with Orange Floral Print by Sachin + Babi; Floral Print Jacket and White Pant by Stella McCartney; Blue Floral Print Dress by Roberto Cavalli and Pink Clutch by Michael Kors; Pink Floral Dress by Roberto Cavalli and Earrings by Kimberly McDonald.
DARE TO GO BARE... BE IT SHEATH, SHORTS OR SKIRT, SOPHISTICATED STYLES IN FLESH TONES ARE SUBTLE & SULTRY.
neutral
nudes
Left to Right: Strapless Dress with Gold Trim by Michael Kors; Leather Jacket by Brunello Cucinelli, Shorts by Michael Kors, Sandals by Prada and Necklace by Brunello Cucinelli; Sequined Top by Theory and Leather Skirt by The Row; Peplum Dress by Lela Rose and Earrings by Kimberly McDonald.
UNLEASH YOUR INNER “MAD HOUSEWIFE” WITH ICONIC PRINTS THAT TAKE YOU BACK TO THE ’70s.
retro prints Left to Right: Long Green Dress by Kelly Wearstler; Black & White Print Dress by Kelly Wearstler; Orange Print Wrap Dress by Diane Von Furstenburg; Leopard Dress by Bogner and Bangle by Ashley Pittman.
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S TA R S c o l l e c t i o n
2012 H.Stern速 | worldwide locations at www.hstern.net
www.dorothee-schumacher.de
All designs Š Paul Morelli 2012
Designed and handcrafted in Philadelphia
DIAMOND CONFETTI 800.716.3859 PA U L M O R E L L I . C O M
escapes
Star TREATMENT
Below: Sleep under the stars in the Sabi Sands region of South Africa.
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friends gathering around a campfire, slumbering under the stars—appeals to almost everyone. Sleeping on the ground, dirt-speckled food and primitive bathroom facilities do not. Fortunately, enterprising camp creators are removing much of the uncomfortable stuff from a stay in the great outdoors, preserving all the good and adding even more incentives. Glam camping, or “glamping” as it’s now called, has spread around the world. The Clayoquot Wilderness Resort is located on the west coast of Vancouver
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Island (reachable by boat or sea plane). Here, guests who love the great outdoors can hike, fish, or climb to a treetop observation platform to view one of the oldest temperate rainforests in the world, then “fly” over the forest via a 285 meter-long flight line. For those who prefer less strenuous exploits, Clayoquot offers wine tastings, spa tents and library tents with an internet café. And the accommodations will surely attract the luxury-loving camper. Tents reminiscent of those used in 19th-century great safari camps have king beds with down
IMAGE BY FLOATING ECO-LODGE CAMBODIA
IMAGE COPYRIGHT © ABERCROMBIE & KENT
duvets, antique dressers and tea tables, Persian carpets, working bathrooms and heated floors. There are even bathrobes and turndown service. The Resort at Paws Up, located on 37,000 acres along the Blackfoot River near Missoula, Montana, offers a range of year-round activities: 120 miles of designated hiking and riding trails, fly-fishing, whitewater rafting, cross-country skiing, and more. Recently, Paws Up has opened their most luxurious tented accommodations ever. Set on a bluff overlooking the Blackfoot River and Elk Creek, Pinnacle Camp has one- and twobedroom suites with climate controls, jetted tubs in the ensuite bathrooms and decks with river views. There’s even a personal “camping butler.” If you want to go off by yourself, boutique adventure company Global
Above, left: The Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia Right: Abercrombie & Kent’s Sahara Desert Camp
Expeditions, Inc. offers private custom excursions. This company doesn’t have a fixed location or standard package. Instead, an area is leased exclusively for you and a luxury tented camp is created. Global will fly in a chef from anywhere in the world, and cater to your whims with yoga masters, masseurs and estheticians, or authorities on geology, ecology and astronomy. For stargazers, there are several other options. Abercrombie & Kent will
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arrange for you to explore the mysterious Sahara Desert. After a tour of the area (including Berber villages and the Atlas Mountains) guests set off across the desert for a four-wheel drive to the camp, situated in a remote area overlooking the Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s a sunset camel ride through the Sahara’s dazzling expanse, followed by a Moroccan dinner, traditional entertainment and a spacious Caidal tent. Then there’s Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia, located in Tatai, next to the Thai border between Bangkok and Phnom Penh. There are 12 tented villas, each with a flat-screen TV, mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trek into the jungle to explore one of the world’s largest rainforests, kayak down river, fish, or perhaps stop off for a natural hydro massage in the Tatai Waterfalls. At the end of the day, you can relax on your private sun-lounger balcony for a cocktail. If you want to get away from (and above) it all, Lion World Tours, specializing in trips to southern and eastern Africa, can arrange for you to stay in a treehouse. In the Sabi Sands region of South Africa, an astonishing bedroom has been built around a majestic 500-year-old Leadwood tree. Guests are taken to the camp at sunset to gaze out over the plains while enjoying Champagne and local delicacies, before turning in on lavish linens in complete privacy… and, naturally, sleeping under the stars.
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sports
“WE’RE SEEING THE BEGINNING OF A SHIFT BACK TO THE OLD DAYS, WITH BOTH SOLID HIGH SOCKS AND STIRRUPS.”
MUCH ADO ABOUT ANKLES
MLB PLAYERS ARE SHOWING SOME LEG. BY WILLIAM N. WALLACE
AP PHOTO/JIM MONE
New York Yankees Curtis Granderson, left, and Derek Jeter celebrate as they score on August 19th, 2011, in Minneapolis. READERS PLEASE NOTE: An important fashion trend is emerging, and from Major League Baseball, of all conservative places! It concerns stockings. No, not the Cincinnati Red Stockings, the first American base-
ball team whose players got paid to play (1869). Nor sox as in Boston Red Sox or Chicago White Sox. This discernible drift is to socks that come up to the knees—knee socks—and thus eschew those long loose pants now standard in MLB.
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(Some pant legs these days are so elongated it’s a wonder players don’t trip and fall on the way to home plate!) Knee socks in two styles, plain and stirrup, are trending, I sense, perhaps because baseball players
SPRING 2012
S C OT T BA R B E R . C O M
have little choice in what they wear to games. The essence of a uniform is that all dress the same, which means the cap, the shirt and the pants are standard issue. In other words, all parts of the baseball uniform are preordained... except for the socks. urtis Granderson, the New York Yankees’ star center fielder, wears knee socks in dark Yankee blue. So does teammate Alex “A-Rod” Rodriguez, the multi-million dollar third baseman. Yet like the vast majority of MLB players, teammate Derek Jeter does not. The fashion iconoclasts are attention grabbers. In casually watching last year’s World Series,
that Lajoie had come down with “blood poisoning” because the dye from the stocking got into the wound. It was an unlikely tale, but nevertheless the next season, Cleveland players wore pure white stockings to avoid blood poisoning (according to the Globe). Soon the players were wearing two pairs of socks: the thin white underneath called “the sanitary” and a colored one on top. That double layer made for a snug fit in the shoe, so the colored toes and heels were cut away. The effect was a stirrup sock, a fashion feature that endured for decades. These stockings were worn in various display colors to identify the teams: brown for the St. Louis Browns for example. Babe Ruth wore green socks when he was with the Brooklyn Dodgers.
1930s, had rolled his pants well below the knee. So did Ted Williams, the Red Sox slugger of the 1940s and ’50s. But they were exceptions. Ultimately, longer pants all but eliminated the knee sock as uniform. Something was definitely lost, says Tyler Kepner, the Times’ lead baseball columnist. “I would love to see players show more socks or stirrups and express themselves within the confines of the uniform,” he told me. “But most go with the modern trend of wearing pants to the ankles or lower, showing no sock at all.’’ As with many a fashion trend, it’s hard to grasp what forces lowered pant legs. My theory is that once the big stars—like Barry Bonds as he came on in the ’80s— dropped their pants, others followed like sheep.
“I WOULD LOVE TO SEE PLAYERS SHOW MORE SOCKS OR STIRRUPS AND EXPRESS THEMSELVES WITHIN THE CONFINES OF THE UNIFORM.” —TYLER KEPNER, THE NEW YORK TIMES my wife picked up on the stockings of Octavio Dotel, one of many relief pitchers for the winning St. Louis Cardinals. He was wearing bold stirrup socks—red ones with blue and white stripes. Dotel’s choice of legwear under the bright lights of the World Series brought back the past. Reader, surely you have heard of Napoleon Lajoie? Nap Lajoie was so good that the team he played for was named after him: the Cleveland Napoleons of the newly founded American League in the early 1900s. In that era, players wore wool socks that pulled up over the knee. During a 1905 game, Lajoie was spiked by a rival shortstop named O’Leary when Nap came sliding into second base. O’Leary’s shoe spikes cut through Lajoie’s stocking and into his leg, drawing blood. The Boston Globe later reported
Ruth? The great Yankees All-Star was never a Dodger, you’re thinking. But yes, he was: as the first base coach in 1937, in a publicity stunt to sell tickets. And the uniform trim was green that season but soon returned to Dodger blue. The stirrup sock, universal by 1910, acquired tweaks in its evolution. More and more of the outer was cut away, leaving in some cases just a thin strip of identifying color pulled over the white stocking underneath. We know a lot about the subject thanks to baseball historian Mark Okkonen, author of Baseball Uniforms of the 20th Century. That big picture book was published in 1991 as the pants trend continued to go south of the kneecap. Okkonen chose to ignore it. Earlier, Carl Hubbell, ace pitcher for the New York Giants in the
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But now we’re seeing the beginning of a shift back to the old days, with both solid high socks and stirrups. Said Kepner, “Guys like ARod, Ian Kinsler (Texas Rangers), Hunter Pence (Philadelphia Phillies) and Dave Robertson (New York Yankees) don’t wear stirrups like they did in the old days. But they do display a lot of their standard, colored socks. “A few guys do prefer actual stirrups, but very few: Juan Pierre (Chicago White Sox), Ubaldo Jimenez (Cleveland Indians), Octavio Dotel (St. Louis Cardinals), Josh Outman (Oakland) and Reed Johnson (Chicago Cubs) come to mind. But mostly it’s the plain high socks. Too bad.” William N. Wallace is a retired sportswriter for The New York Times, working from Westport, CT.
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DRESS FURNISHINGS
essay
PULL IT TOGETHER! THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE DETAILS. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
Socks should match the trouser, rather than the shoe. (But a little whimsy on the feet is acceptable, as is going sans socks in summer.) ■ More than anything else you wear, your tie expresses your personality. Make sure it’s current (three and a half inches, narrower if you’re a rock star) and make sure it’s interesting. Even casual outfits, including jeans, go up a notch with the right neckwear: try a knit or linen tie, or a subtle conversational. ■ Keep your eyewear current. Bring along a friend when you select new glasses and make sure the frames complement your face shape and features. (Bold frames are of the moment, but only if they look good on you!) ■ A handkerchief in your sportcoat pocket adds a touch of elegance. So there it is. Without threatening my masculinity, the simple act of coordinating a suede belt with my suede bucks has instilled newfound confidence. And now that I’m taking a few minutes each morning to accessorize, my life is changing for the better. My girlfriend seems happy to see me. My colleagues are showing respect. Who knew life could be so simple? My patronizing friend even picked up the check at our most recent lunch outing. ■
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ZEGNA
row up,” my fashionable friend sneered over his ceviche, with one eyebrow raised. “You look disheveled, kind of a mess…” “What are you talking about?” I demanded, feeling very sartorially appropriate in trim khakis and a crisp blue oxford shirt. “Your outfit!” he dispatched with disdain. “It’s dull and uncoordinated. It makes you look dated. And clueless!” Requesting specifics about my fashion transgressions, I was told that, for one thing, my belt and shoes had nothing in common. “The belt’s at my waist, the shoes are on my feet: what do they need in common?” I wondered aloud. But after a quick self-assessment, I had to admit that my friend was right. Despite owning plenty of quality clothes, some with designer labels, I never seemed to look quite right. Clearly, my image was far less cool and far more boring than most of the guys in that trendy restaurant. Time to consult the experts. Here’s what I learned: ■ When it comes to accessories, buy the best you can afford. When the accessories look expensive, the outfit looks expensive. ■ The belt and shoes should be as close as possible in color, texture and material.
at your service CLOSET CLEANING
EXPERTISE
CAPPUCCINO & WATER BAR
In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand, to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.
Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising them on all clothing and accessory matters. They are willing to go the extra mile to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one, and they’ll even take a trip to your home or office to give you a personal closet consultation, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe.
In the hectic world in which we live, many simple pleasures are lost. Sometimes a hot cup of coffee, or a friendly, familiar face is the best comfort for the soul. We’re happy to provide both, and more.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS
GIFT CARDS
COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS
Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your shopping experience.
A Mitchells/Richards/Marshs gift card is the gift that always fits! Our gift cards are available for purchase in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the gift card up and ship it to the recipient for you!
In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all of our clothing. Down to the detail of the stitching, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our on-site team of world-class tailors is ready to assure that you always bring home a perfect fit.
HOME DELIVERY We understand your busy schedule and want to do all we can to lessen the demands on your time. This is why we provide local delivery to your residence, or anywhere in the United States. If you need it in a pinch, count on us to be there.
ABUNDANT PARKING To ensure your shopping experience is as stress-free as possible, we provide you with ample complimentary parking that is both convenient and secure — a real luxury in downtown Greenwich.
PICTURE PERFECT Trust our professional sales associates to put together the ultimate outfit and coordinate you from head to toe. To alleviate confusion when you get home, we will happily photograph your ensembles, providing a catalogue you can refer to time after time.
SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT. COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP
RETURN POLICY
We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases, on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.
We have a liberal return policy, where you can bring your purchases back if you are not satisfied with them within a reasonable period of time. We want to make sure you love your new items when you get home, as much as you do in the store.
CLOTHING DONATIONS Service is important to us, not only in our store, but also in our community. We will help you clear out those unwanted items that have been cluttering up your closet, while providing for a good cause. All discarded items will be donated to a local charity — we will coordinate the donation and make the delivery ourselves.
BUTTON UP
FAMILY FRIENDLY
BY APPOINTMENT
As a family business, we feel that it is essential to create a shopping experience that can be enjoyed by the whole family. At Mitchells, Richards, and Marshs we provide interactive play areas so that your time with us can be more relaxed, and your children can still have fun.
Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will pre-select a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, placing the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future. Call Debbi O’Shea at 203.622.0551 for more information.
IN AN EMERGENCY If you find yourself in a pinch after hours, dial the main store number and follow the prompts to be connected directly to one of our family’s home numbers. We’re always available to come to your rescue!
A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need assistance, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like to see you looking your best, down to the details.
It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you worldclass fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable sales associates who help and guide you. You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to constantly exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.
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MITCHELLS/RICHARDS/MARSHS FORUM SPRING 2012