SPRING 2016 COLLECTION
18 TA B L E O F C O N T E N T S
03 04 06 10 16 18 62 68 70 74 76 80 81
W E LC O M E G R E E T I N G S F R O M JA K E SAMUELSOHN: THE BIG REVEAL D E S I G N E R S : WO R K I T OA K H A L L : A H I S TO RY O F P R O G R E S S SPRING COLLECTION T H E FA S H I O N F O R U M PROFILE: HICKEY FREEMAN S T Y L E E VO L U T I O N N O R M A L TO T H E C O R E T R AV E L : B R I J U N I THE MEASURE OF A MAN MAKING A BOLD ENTRANCE
76 81
SPRING 2016
IT’S TIME for N E W --------------A willingness to go above and beyond to take care of our guests has been a trademark of Oak Hall throughout our 157-year history and continues as we expand our presence.
With the spring 2016 opening of our Nashville location, we are thrilled to offer our select collection and premium service to a growing clientele.
We welcome spring 2016 with the excitement of the season’s fresh beginnings, and invite you to celebrate these changes with us.
profile Samuelsohn:
The Big Reveal
Tailored clothing’s best-kept secret comes out of the closet! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
These days, as business dress codes remain relaxed, men are choosing to wear fine tailored clothing because they want to, not because they have to. And men in the know are choosing Samuelsohn, an exceptional but low-profile clothing company that’s been crafting beautiful suits in Montreal since 1923. But low profile no more, new ownership at this Canadian company relaunched the brand in 2011 and business has more than doubled. Much of the credit goes to the company’s new president and chief creative officer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, a talented designer and visionary executive who lives and breathes the clothing business. Upon taking over, he quickly recognized a “diamond in the rough” and immediately updated the label, the logo, the fabrics, the fits, the colors, the buttons, the linings, the marketing and
6
more. What remains constant: Samuelsohn’s commitment to exceptional quality, and the “expression” of its full-canvas handtailored suits that both fit and flatter the wearer. “I feel like I’ve come full circle,” says Silverstone, a third-generation clothing guy who grew up in his father’s suit factory in Montreal. “I’d always known and respected the Samuelsohn brand, Canada’s quintessential quality suit maker. (My father wore Samuelsohn suits!) As my career moved forward—from my father’s company to launching my own clothing label (that I ultimately sold to Oxford) to becoming design director at Nordstrom—I always dreamed of returning to manufacturing. When Samuelsohn was bought by Stephen Granovsky in 2010, I was recommended for the job of president, and felt it was exactly where I belonged.” hat makes Samuelsohn clothing so special? Silverstone could go on for hours. “First of all, the suits are a rare combination of modern styling and classic tailoring, featuring fully basted canvas construction and hand-tailored details. Since all garments are produced in our own factory, we control every step of the process. Second, we are known for innovation, e.g. we were the first to come out with luxury performance fabrics that are cool, comfortable and wrinkle resistant; we’ve even developed clothing with carbon fiber! Third, we have the cleanest distribution in the industry: we don’t sell to outlets, only the best specialty stores in North America. Fourth of course is our tremendous intrinsic value: there’s more craftsmanship in a Samuelsohn garment than in most Italian brands that are double the price. (Canada’s duty advantages and exchange rates offer additional value for American customers.) Fifth, our made-tomeasure programs are the best in the industry. Sixth is our company culture: although we’re privately owned, we’re run more like a family business than a large corporation, with emphasis on customer service, personal relationships and employee appreciation. “I know it sounds counterintuitive, but making money is not our number-one priority; we’re more concerned with providing the best goods at the best value and satisfying our customers so they’ll keep coming back.” And come back they do! For spring ’16, check out the beautifully tailored Samuelsohn clothing arriving on our selling floor now. For practical types, we love the performance suit in a Loro Piana Storm System fabric with stretch. (It’s waterproof, wrinkle resistant and amazingly comfortable!) Or try the updated luxury travel blazer with 12 pockets and extra zippers. For nights and weekends, there’s an amazing washed cashmere sportcoat. And to make a bold fashion statement, why not a beautifully tailored striped DB suit in a hot shade of blue? Which is his favorite? “It’s like asking a parent to choose his favorite child,” Silverstone responds. So we’ll let you, our customers, be the judge…
7
LORO PIANA “EXTREME” PERFORMANCE FABRIC
designers
WORK IT OUR FAVORITE MEN IN FASHION TALK FIRST JOBS AND SURPRISING JOURNEYS TO THE TOP. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON My first real job was actually unpaid since I dropped out of school (truth be told I was kicked out). My father helped me get a trainee job at a local hotel where I cleaned rooms, worked with the maintenance team and helped out in the conference center. I think my father thought that because I was doing this rather boring job at 16, I would reconsider my decision to drop out and return to school. I can’t say I enjoyed working at the hotel but at least I learned I never want to work at hotels. I enlisted in the army at 17 against my will and I was out of the hotel world after six months. After 10 months in the army service and another less successful career at a reception job, I moved back to my old hometown and applied for a position in the warehouse at Eton. That was my first job in the business. I was about to turn 19 and through Eton I heard about a sales rep position at Harrods in London. I got the job and that became the starting point to my career in fashion. I love working at Eton because of my colleagues. I get to travel to so many interesting places, I find time to play with my band, Highly Sedated, and I have a genuine passion for what I do. I have found a profession that I enjoy doing so much so it rarely feels like I'm working. That has got to be the ultimate feeling. I guess it's a matter of finding what you love and then going out of your way to do it. I have worked hard to get where I am today, but the rewarding everyday feeling makes it all worth it.
10
My first job was in London, folding shirts in a shop for £25 a week. This position eventually led me to my current role because I was (and still am) the best folding man around! The best part about my job as CEO of Isaia is that I wake up in the morning happy to go to work…
S S 16 . B E A N E W G E N T L E M A N .
GIOVANNI BIANCHI, L.B.M. 1911 My very first job was here at Lubiam, the company that manufactures L.B.M. 1911 and that has been owned by my family for over 100 years. After getting a high school diploma in scientific studies, I studied economics in college for one year. But I soon realized design was my passion. So I enrolled in the faculty of Industrial Design at the Politecnico di Milano, and before my graduation I started training at Lubiam. In 2002 I became product manager. Although my siblings and I are the fourth generation of the family, my parents never pushed me to join the company. I decided to enter it on my own, to give my personal contribution to its growth the same way my father, grandfather and great-grandfather, Luigi Bianchi, did before me. I was hired for an entry-level position and used my first salary to buy the engagement ring for Ilaria, my wife of 12 years and partner for 22. My best investment indeed. We have four wonderful children together. Fashion has been in my family's DNA for over 100 years. Joining the company was a spontaneous call that fulfilled my natural passion for creativity and design. The possibility to create, dare and express myself with a language, the menswear language, was part of my history before I was born. As L.B.M. 1911's style director, nothing fulfills me more than creating a product with my own hands and intellect, and realizing season after season that I was able to conceive something new and original, while remaining loyal to my company's values. L.B.M. 1911 is a perfect example of that. The line is completely focused on product innovation. The garment-dyed techniques and the finishes and washes our clothes undergo require constant experimentation and ongoing research. Another important aspect of my job is the unexpected power of inspiration. It can come to you by doing the simplest thing, like walking. All I need to do is be open to my environment and draw from it inspirations that can potentially translate into stylish and revolutionary ideas.
12
designers
SAM KU, AG I worked summer retail at a Champs Sports in the local mall. I was not a very good sales person, and this still holds true today! My first job out of college was a position in AG’s R&D facility, the department responsible for developing washes. I knew nothing about denim manufacturing at the time, so it was a very eye-opening learning process for me. Prior to this job I had worked a few internships in a couple different fields. One job was in finance, and another in an advertising firm. Neither really excited me all that much, so I told my father I would go work for him. My salary at the time was $30K. I think young people starting in fashion have to understand that starting salaries are what they are, and it takes time and experience to add value to a company. From this position, I moved to different parts of the company. I spent some time in the sample sewing room and learned how our product was constructed. I eventually moved into a design position, and I’m still involved in the design process today. The best part of working in fashion is seeing a project through from start to finish. The process of seeing something go from concept to development to sales and hitting the retail floor is a satisfying one.
14
OAK
W
A HISTORY of P R O G R E S S
HALL
SIN CE
1 8 59
hile the United States was still years from its
opened our ladies’ department. After moving into (and
centennial, Solomon Halle opened one of the first
soon expanding) our Regalia Center location, the vine-
ready-to-wear stores in the country. When Oak Hall opened
yard vines by Oak Hall store debuted in 2008, followed by
in downtown Memphis in 1859, its collection of men’s
openings in Nashville and Birmingham. In 2014, Oak Hall
ready-to-wear was lit by oil lamps and carriage traffic
celebrated our 155th anniversary and introduced online
rolled outside our Main Street location.
shopping at oakhall.com.
Now one of the oldest family-owned businesses in the U.S.,
After a century and a half as a Memphis institution,
Oak Hall’s mission remains the same – offering customers an
Oak Hall is now setting out from our flagship and expanding
extensive but carefully curated selection, provided with im-
into Nashville. Our newest shop in the Hill Center Green
peccable service – but the means by which we deliver on this
Hills carries on the Oak Hall tradition of offering timeless
mission has expanded throughout our history.
style with a Southern accent. Phase I of this location is a 2,000-square-foot retail space, which will expand into a
Oak Hall met with continued success and nearly doubled in
10,000-square-foot store during Phase II in 2017. We are
size during the 1920s. The late 20th century saw even more
thrilled by this new opportunity and look forward to
change, when after 100 years in downtown Memphis, the
building more connections like those that have sustained
store consolidated into a single East Memphis location and
our customer relationships for the last 157 years.
1859 Oak Hall is founded in Memphis by Solomon Halle, during the presidency of James Buchanan.
1966
1978
Oak Hall opens a second store at Poplar and Perkins Ext. in East Memphis.
Since the first Oak Hall Run for St. Jude, Oak Hall has raised over 2 million dollars for children’s cancer research.
2008 The vineyard vines by Oak Hall store in Memphis opens.
2016 Oak Hall opens new store in Nashville, TN.
2010 1918 A World War I victory parade is held in front of the Oak Hall store on Main Street.
1996 1970 After 111 years in downtown Memphis, Oak Hall consolidates all operations to Poplar and Perkins location.
16
OAKHALL.COM
Oak Hall moves to the Regalia Center at Poplar and Ridgeway.
The vineyard vines by Oak Hall store in Nashville opens.
OAKHALL.COM
17
A N E W PA L E T T E E M E R G E S
18
OAKHALL.COM
the
TRADITION is
GROWING F
---------ON HER: Catherine Deane Fainya Dress 491CDN0100 - $595 – Navy and Almond B. Loeffler Randall Amelia Sandal 480LOE0108 - $295 - Black See page 61 ON HIM: Ermenegildo Zegna Sport Coat 132ZEG0100 - $2495 - Blue Navy Block Lightweight high-performance 100% wool D. Ermenegildo Zegna Tattersall Dress Shirt 216ZEG0100 - $395 – Blue E. Ermenegildo Zegna Trousers 154ZEG0100 - $695 - Light Grey, Charcoal Grey, Blue, Tan Lightweight high-performance wool F. Ermenegildo Zegna Silk Neckwear Available in store G. Ermengildo Zegna Shoes Available in store
OAKHALL.COM
19
Samuelsohn Check Sport Coat 128SAM0103 - $1095 - Navy Check Samuelsohn Soft Blazer 136SAM0101 - $1095 - Blue Hiltl Essential Cotton Trouser 150HIT0104 - $235 - Stone See page 21 Hiltl Two-Ply Super-120s Trouser 148HIT0100 - $295 - Pearl See page 21 Eton Twill Dress Shirt 214ETO0100 - $265 - White Eton Pattern Dress Shirt 210ETO0130 - $275 - Blue See page 25
20
OAKHALL.COM
H I LT L TROUSERS Hiltl Two-Ply Super-120s Trouser 148HIT0100 - $295 Dark Grey, Pearl, Cola, Taupe, Cobalt, Tan Year-round wrinkle-resistant wool trousers available in classic or contemporary fit
GROU NDE D
I N
T R ADITION
Hiltl Essential Cotton Trouser 150HIT0104 - $235 Chocolate, Olive, Tan, Blue, Stone Casual cotton dress trousers constructed using Hiltl’s exclusive fabric, which protects against water and moisture marks while enhancing breathability and comfort
OAKHALL.COM
21
THE
ISAIA DELAIN S P O R T C O AT
-----------
22
OAKHALL.COM
Isaia Sport Coat 128ISA0100 - $2695 Tan Grey Check
Hardwick Poplin Suit 112HAR0100 - $495 - Stone, Khaki The signature cotton poplin suit of Hardwick’s American-made line Eton Herringbone Dress Shirt 212ETO0104 - $265 - Pink
Hardwick Seersucker Sport Coat 128HAR0100 - $395 - Navy A classic American-made cotton seersucker sport coat Eton Twill Dress Shirt 212ETO0100 - $265 - Blue Eton Ties Available at oakhall.com
OAKHALL.COM
23
Canali Plaid Sport Coat 128CAN0101 - $1595 Light Grey Blue Plaid
formality with
FLEXIBILIT Y
24
OAKHALL.COM
OFF THE CUFF
A
B
C
D
E
F
Wrinkle-Resistant 100% Cotton A. York Twill Check Contemporary Dress D. York Twill Check Contemporary Shirt Dress Shirt 210ETO0128 - $275 - Brown 210ETO0126 - $275 - Green B. York Twill Check Contemporary Dress Shirt 210ETO0126 - $275 - Blue
E. York Twill Check Contemporary Dress Shirt 210ETO0130 - $275 - Blue
C. York Twill Tattersall Dress Shirt 210ETO0129 - $275 - Pink
F. York Twill Check Contemporary Dress Shirt
OAKHALL.COM
25
Samuelsohn Loro Piana Rainsystem Performance Suit 112SAM0101 - $1295 - Shown in Blue, also available in Dark Blue, Charcoal Grey, Tan
26
OAKHALL.COM
OAKHALL.COM
27
Canali Windowpane Sport Coat 128CAN0100 - $1650 Blue Brown Pane
28
OAKHALL.COM
A PAT T ER N for S U CC ES S Peter Millar Plaid Sport Coat 128MIL0100 - $595 Eton Fine Stripe Dress Shirt 210ETO0127 - $265 - Blue Dominique Paisley Pocket Square 270HOD0100 - $75 - Lavender Grey
OAKHALL.COM
29
ON HIM LBM 1911 Windowpane Soft Jacket 396LBM0101 - $845 - Brown, Blue, Grey, Green AG Graduate SUD 5 Pockets 369ADG0100 - $178 - Bleached Sand See page 31
OPPOSITE AG Graduate SUD 5 Pockets 369ADG0100, 370ADG0100, 370ADG0103, 370ADG0106 - $178 See page 31 for colors
30
OAKHALL.COM
SULFUR QUARTZ
CAVERN
BURCH
BLEACHED SAND
DARK WHEAT
SULFUR DESERT TAUPE
OAKHALL.COM
31
32
OAKHALL.COM
PINK SAND
KHAKI
Peter Millar Tattersall Sport Shirt 311MIL0105 - $145 - Patriot Navy, Mirage Peter Millar Seaside Silk Blend Shorts 358MIL0100 - $98
CURRITUCK
ATLANTIC BLUE
STONE
CONCH
OAKHALL.COM
33
CLASSIC LINES On Him Culturata Tattersall Sport Shirt 311CUL0101 - $195 - Rose Torino Belt Available at oakhall.com Hiltl Cotton Jeans 369HIT0100 - $225 Light Tan, Dark Blue, Dark Khaki, Dark Grey, Khaki
34
OAKHALL.COM
PERFORMANCE
KEEP YOUR COOL Peter Millar Salem High-Drape Performance Shorts 360MIL0100 - $85 Khaki, Midnight, British Grey, Cottage Blue, Black, Stone You can take the heat in this performance short, designed to move with you while keeping moisture at bay.
PLAY THROUGH Peter Millar Best Stripe Performance Polo 334MIL0101 - $85 Parrot Green, Bermuda Pink, Cottage Blue, Tide, White This polo’s performance-friendly fit and moisture-wicking fabric is lightweight, breathable, quick drying, and stretches four ways for maximum comfort. UPF 50+ sun protection.
OAKHALL.COM
35
PERFECT FATHER/SUN MOMENTS
Michael’s Sunglasses Swim Trunks 352MMC0101 - $98.50 – White Quick-dry fabric with a super-soft finish Michael’s Boy’s Sunglasses Swim Trunks 352MMC0100 - $70 – White Just like Dad’s
36
OAKHALL.COM
Basket Weave Sport Shirt 313SCO0101 - $165 - Pink
Cotton Check Sport Shirt 311SCO0102 - $155 - Purple
Basket Weave Sport Shirt 313SCO0100 - $165 - Grape
Cotton Check Sport Shirt 311SCO0101 - $155 - Pink
Basket Weave Sport Shirt 313SCO0102 - $165 - Blue
OAKHALL.COM
37
THERE ARE
B R I G H T E R D AY S AHEAD
38
OAKHALL.COM
LEFT ON HIM: Faherty Seaview Sport Shirt 311FAH0104 - $148 - Blue Cream Persol Sunglasses Available at oakhall.com ON HER: Rebecca Taylor Lace Top 435TAY0101 - $425 - Creamsicle Persol Sunglasses Available at oakhall.com RIGHT Faherty Dawn Patrol Sport Shirt 311FAH0103 - $148 - Light Blue and Green Faherty Beach Shorts 358FAH0100 - $98 - Stone, Khaki, Faded Navy, Sunwashed Red
OAKHALL.COM
39
Faherty Seaview Sport Shirt 311FAH0105 - $148 - Blue/Red/White Faherty All Day Shorts 354FAH0100 - $98 Coastal Blue, Charcoal, Khaki, Navy, Red Moore & Giles Taylor Duffel 274MNG0114 - $750 – Rangertan - Waxed cotton duffel in carry-on size Moore & Giles Cleland XL Duffel 274MNG0101 - $975 - Rangertan - Waxed cotton and leather oversized duffel
40
OAKHALL.COM
Culturata Heritage Sport Shirt 314CUL0100 - $195 – Blue
OAKHALL.COM
41
ON HIM Peter Millar Silk Cashmere Birdseye Sweater 346MIL0104 - $398 Jet Stream Blue, Barchetta Nickel Grey, Viola Peter Millar Raleigh Twill Pant 392MIL0100 - $125 - Light Grey Cole Haan Loafer Available in store
ON HER Jill Stuart Jaz Dress 411JLS0100 - $468 - Kohl Loeffler Randall Amelia Sandal 480LOE0108 - $295 – Black
42
OAKHALL.COM
Trina Turk Karmen Top 435TNA0100 - $168 - Violet Trina Turk Corbin 2 Shorts 432TNA0100 - $198 - Multi Joie Bailee Sandal 480JOI0120 - $285 - Black
READY to SHINE OAKHALL.COM
43
PREPARE TO BE DELIGHTED Barbour Reversible Derby Mac Jacket 448BAR0101 - $349 - Navy Barbour Renishaw Dress 411BAR0100 - $119 – Ecru Hunter Original Tall Matte Boot 480HUN0102 - $150 Military Red, Black, Dark Olive Barbour Sealand Striped Scarf 465BAR0102 - $99 Blue and Marigold Stripe Barbour Trevose Jacket 448BAR0100 - $399 - Navy Hunter Original Short Matte Boot 480HUN0100 - $140 Navy, Hunter Green
44
OAKHALL.COM
Alice + Olivia Bellamy Stripe Dress 411ALO0100 - $155 Black and Off White AG 29 Year Jacket 430ADG0102 - $225 29 Year Tom Ford Sunglasses Available in store
OAKHALL.COM
45
Dylan by True Grit Vintage Vest 443GRI0105 - $85 - Vintage White See page 47 Halston Blue Designs Zinnia II Tassel Necklace 460HBD0102 - $174 Dylan by True Grit Tank 438GRI0101 - $55 - Charcoal, Perfect White
46
OAKHALL.COM
LIGHTEN YOUR LOOK Dylan by True Grit Vintage Vest 443GRI0105 - $85 - Cargo, Vintage White, Vintage Grey
OAKHALL.COM
47
TRUE BLUE or W H I T E H O T
LEFT Dylan by True Grit Short-Sleeve Button Henley 438GRI0100 - $65 - Indigo Wash, Perfect White, Smoke AG Legging Ankle Jeans 430ADG0101 - $178 – White AG Stilt Cropped Jeans 430ADG0100 - $178 - Sulfur Harbor Grey RIGHT
48
Dylan by True Grit Button-Down Top 435GRI0100 - $145 – Chambray
OAKHALL.COM
OAKHALL.COM
49
AG Legging Jeans 431ADG0104 - $220 18 Year Heart Breaker AG’s signature skinny mid-rise jean is versatile and comfortable
AG Stilt Jeans 430ADG0104 - $164 - White Streamlined silhouette with a mid-rise fit
AG Legging Ankle Jeans 431ADG0105 - $198 - Crater Mid-rise jean with all-way stretch, cropped just above the ankle
AG Farrah Skinny Jeans 431ADG0100 - $168 - Brooks Ultra-stretch jean has a highrise waist and narrow leg for a streamlined fit
ATM Sweetheart Tank See page 52
50
OAKHALL.COM
Citizens of Humanity Emannuelle Boot Cut Jeans 431CTZ0102 - $178 - Cruz Classic mid-rise boot cut with an elongating silhouette
Citizens of Humanity Rocket Jeans 430CTZ0101 - $178 - Optic White High-rise skinny jean that has a smooth, svelte silhouette
Citizens of Humanity Avedon Jeans 431CTZ0101 - $198 - Pretender A mid-rise ultra-slim ďŹ t that is incredibly stretchy and comfortable
Citizens of Humanity Fleetwood Flare Jeans 431CTZ0105 - $228 - Ozone Rinse High-rise and gradual ared leg nods to the 1970s
OAKHALL.COM
51
ILLUMINATING CONCEPTS LaMarque Thera Mixed Media Jacket 418LME0100 - $275 - Natural Vince Linen Cargo Pant 425VNC0100 - $295 - Marzipan ATM Sweetheart Tank 440ATM0100 - $75 - White, Black, Heather Grey
52
OAKHALL.COM
Rebecca Minkoff Finn Crossbody 464MNK0101 - $195 - Putty K/ller Horn Pendant Necklace 460KLR0108 - $215 - Brass Joie Jace Wedge 480JOI0121 - $265 - Buff
OAKHALL.COM
53
B
A
A. Loeffler Randall Sarie Sandal 480LOE0112 - $175 - Wheat/Silver/Gold B. Joie Bailee Sandal 480JOI0120 - $285 - Black C. Joie Phyllis Wedge 480JOI0122 - $295 - Black, Buff D. Loeffler Randall Saffron Sandal 480LOE0113 - $250 - White and Wheat E. Loeffler Randall Alfie Sneaker 480LOE0114 - $225 - Black and Natural F. Joie Jace Wedge 480JOI0121 - $265 - Buff
54
OAKHALL.COM
C
D
get
strap-happy. F
E
OAKHALL.COM
55
Rebecca Taylor Box Clip Top 435TAY0102 - $325 - Creamsicle and Black EF Collection Diamond Bar Necklace 460EFC0100 - $650 See page 59 EF Collection Multi-Bezel Diamond Mini Crescent Necklace 460EFC0101 - $935 See page 59
56
OAKHALL.COM
Citizens of Humanity Avedon Jeans 431CTZ0100 - $178 - Axel Loefer Randall Perforated Beach Tote 464LOE0100 - $495 - Natural and Black, Black and Natural Joie Jace Wedge 480JOI0121- $265 - Buff
OAKHALL.COM
57
Rachel Zoe Laurie Top 435RZO0100 - $395 – Ivory Brooke Worthington Large Spike Necklace 460BWJ0100 - $535
58
OAKHALL.COM
C
D
CLEAR & SIMPLE
A
A. Diamond Bar Necklace 460EFC0100 - $650 Shown in white gold, available in yellow gold B. Multi-Bezel Diamond Mini Crescent Necklace 460EFC0101 - $935 Shown in white gold, available in yellow gold B
C. Diamond Double Mini Chevron Necklace 460EFC0103 - $550 Shown in white gold, available in yellow gold D. Mini Diamond Chevron Necklace 460EFC0102 - $275 Shown in white gold, available in yellow gold
OAKHALL.COM
59
BREEZE THROUGH the S EA SON Soft Joie Yadon Dress 411SOF0100 - $178 - Peacoat
60
OAKHALL.COM
A
B
C
D
A. Lina Flat 480LOE0110 - $250 - Wheat B. Minnie Wedge 480LOE0115 – $350 - Black
E
C. Minnie Wedge 480LOE0116 – $350 - Wheat D. Amelia Sandal 480LOE0109 - $295 - Wheat E. Amelia Sandal 480LOE0108 - $295 - Black
OAKHALL.COM
61
the FASHION forum
NEVER TOO LATE FOR A CHANGE We’ve seen a complete changing of the guard in the late-night talk show world, with Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Fallon, James Corden, Seth Myers, Jimmy Kimmel and Trevor Noah among the funnymen now sitting in the interviewers’ chairs. But if the faces have changed, the uniform has remained mostly the same: dark suit, white or blue shirt, boring tie. While these guys certainly look dapper, one can’t help but feel they could push the sartorial envelope a bit more. Corden is one of the faces of Burberry, so where are the cutting-edge designs and pops of plaid? Fallon recently signed a deal with G-III for licensed athletic wear, so perhaps he’s saving all his creative juices for that collaboration. And would it kill Myers to borrow something more casual and creative from Stefon, his former flame from Saturday Night Live? The time is ripe to start a trend. —BSL
L
ooking at the current high-fashion uses for denim, from threepiece suits to stylish coats, it can be hard to imagine just how utilitarian the cotton fabric was in its earlier days, when it was worn during the California Gold Rush and used to make early 20th-century prison uniforms. That latter usage surprised even fashion historian Emma McClendon, author of the new book Denim: Fashion’s Frontier and curator of the exhibition of the same name at New York City’s Museum at FIT. Still, McClendon admits that denim’s constant permutations really shouldn’t be shocking. “It’s the rare fabric that’s relatively inexpensive to produce, extremely durable, and easy to care for,” she says. —BSL
62
TOP: GETTY IMAGES. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF MUSEUM AT FIT
DURABLE DENIM
The Fashion Forum
THE MAN, THE MYTH Italians are known to be superstitious, none more so than the Neapolitans.
In addition to the distinctive touch Isaia’s red coral pin adds to the brand’s garments, they believe it also brings luck to the wearer. "We still keep the original piece of Isaia red coral, given to me by a friend, in our Milan flagship store,” says Gianluca Isaia. “And every jacket we make comes with a red coral lapel pin to bring good luck to he who wears it.” The coral motif can also be spotted elsewhere throughout the collection, on buttons, under collars and in stitching. As Isaia recounts from ancient mythology, Perseus slayed Medusa and delivered her head as a gift to the king of Seriphos, who was to wed his mother. During his travels home, Perseus fell in love with Andromeda, whom he found chained to a rock about to be eaten by the evil sea-monster Cetus. To prove his love and save her life, Perseus killed the terrible beast. As he sat to wash his hands in the sea, Perseus laid down the sack that contained Medusa's head. Her blood dripped into the water and instantly hardened into the form we recognize today as red coral. Just as the head of Medusa brought luck to Perseus in his battle with Cetus, red coral brings luck to the distinguished man who chooses an Isaia garment. —JL
FASHIONABLE FRIDA Is there anything more to know about Frida Kahlo? The great Mexican artist has been given the filmic treatment by Julie Taymor (and played by Salma Hayek), and her work has been displayed everywhere from LACMA to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to the New York Botanical Garden. But another side of this groundbreaking woman is explored in Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the Art of Being (Assouline, $195), a new book by journalist Susana Martinez Vidal that was inspired by an exhibition of Kahlo’s own clothing at her home, La Casa Azul. As Vidal deftly illustrates, Kahlo’s fashion aesthetic is something neither time nor death can diminish. —BSL
STREET SMART
Amsterdam’s Tassenmuseum gives the term “bag lady” a whole new (chic) meaning. Inside a beautiful canal-side building, you can view hundreds of purses in various shapes, sizes and designs, spanning from the 1500s to the modern-day. This spring, the museum’s Street Couture exhibition (through June 5) offers an enlightening perspective on these accessories as it showcases colorful, playful and inventive bags by such top fashion names as Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Dior, sometimes pairing them with international fashion ranging from Japanese “Lolita” clothing to American hip-hop outfits to illustrate how one influences the other. It’s definitely worth crossing the Atlantic to witness these crossovers! —BSL
64
profile
America’s
Ultimate Luxury Brand
The suit of choice for JFK, Ronald Reagan, Frank Sinatra and other American heroes, Hickey Freeman embraces the future. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Full-canvas clothing made in America of the world’s finest fabrics is a rarity in itself; add in new technology and a modern fashion sensibility and you’ve got something very special indeed. But it takes a visit to the completely modernized four-story Hickey Freeman factory in Rochester, N.Y. to truly appreciate this fine American clothing brand. Founded in 1899, the factory employs 550 dedicated workers (who speak 23 different languages!). The production process for a Hickey Freeman suit (180 steps for the coat, 57 for the pant) is a balance of art and science: the company uses all the latest technology but many procedures still require expert hand work. Director of production Sacha Smits notes that since quality canvas clothing is dimensional rather than flat, there are 80 different operations just for pressing and molding. “The coat has a DNA from the beginning: our loose shell has shape even before the chest piece and shoulder pads are inserted.” Arnold Silverstone, Hickey Freeman’s new creative director and a veteran clothing executive, remembers going to the factory when the company was first purchased by a private investment firm a few years back. “We got on a plane to Rochester to announce the deal to 500-plus factory workers. They’d heard rumors that the company would be sold so they were nervous, assuming that production would be outsourced and they’d lose their jobs. I’ll never forget the joyful look on their faces when we told them that we bought the company because of their talent. Our plan was to invest heavily in the facility, since we firmly believe in American-made luxury clothing. “Our spring ’16 relaunch features new colors, updated fits, upgraded and lighter canvases and linings, more hand work (e.g. handturned collars) and the finest exclusive fabrics in the world (e.g. Loro Piana Tasmanian and Super 200s). All of this makes Hickey Freeman truly special, the ultimate American luxury brand.”
68
HAND-CRAFTED IN NEW YORK
Evolution
Golf attire then and now. BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
GETTY1 THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION
Right: Ben Hogan, 1955 Below: The Duke of Windsor (left) with Lord Castleross, 1933
70
GETTY1 HULTON ROYALS COLLECTION
history
Style
When I took up golf at the age of 41, the first thing I did was order a pair of shoes. Not just any shoes, mind you, as golf presented the perfect opportunity to bust out brownand-white spectator wingtips. When my Millennial-generation instructor saw me, he cast a doubtful eye. “The way it works,” he said, “is you’ve got to have game to wear stuff like that.” I can see where he was coming from. I’ll never forget being in the group behind a freshly minted hacker. He hit every ball out of bounds, insisted on looking for it, and when he finally found it, took five strokes trying to hack it out of thick brush. But even more memorable than the
live a well-styled life
colossal waste of time he imposed on everyone behind him was his bubble-gum pink sweater. There was something offensive in his assumption that he could wear fun clothes despite having no skill nor sense of etiquette. But the problem with golf attire today is not that it’s too flamboyant, but that it’s too serious. Crazy pants show up now and then, but for the most part golf clothing embodies the game’s obsession with professionalization, technology, corporate sponsorship and branding, leaving few traces of its aristocratic origins or Caddyshack hijinks. If we were to gather a metaphoric foursome representing the past hundred years of golf attire, we would see a sartorial mirror of change in both the game and society at large. Let’s say that first on the tee box is the Gentleman. His hero is the Duke of Windsor, and he is clad in argyle knee socks, tweed plusfours (knickers), tattersall shirt, wool tie and Fair Isle sweater. For him golf is a game played on the vast acreage that surrounds a country estate—land that is used for farming (golf was invented by Scottish shepherds, after all), hunting, riding and keeping everyone else—save for the servants—as far away as possible. The clothing hardly differs from that worn for other country activities. Yet despite how it seems, there’s still a touch of the modern: for when the Duke of Windsor, the biggest fashion leader of his era, first donned a Fair Isle sweater in 1921, it was something new. Next on the tee is the Classicist, from whom I take my personal inspiration. Whereas the Gentleman looks anachronistic, the Classicist is inspired by the past but stylistically relevant. The shoes are traditional, but the trousers are pulled from the man’s everyday wardrobe. The necktie is no longer customary, and in place of a dress shirt is a fitted short-sleeve polo shirt covered by a cashmere Vneck. A flat cap tops off the outfit. This simple, modern, timeless look was personified by Ben Hogan in the 1950s. Wisecracking his way to the tee box next is the Country Clubber, even if he’s playing his local muni course at the discounted twilight rate. This guy’s hero is Bill Murray, and he resides in a sunny suburban community. He exemplifies the era when golf courses sprouted up across America, and middle-class desk jockeys took up golf to climb the social ladder. The clothing symbolizes a life of carefree suburban leisure: loud pants clash with brightcolored shirts and alpaca cardigans, and the clown colors seem to perfectly reflect the comedy of errors that is the game of golf. Hats are dispensed with altogether. Finally stepping onto the tee box—and shooting from the blacks— is an imposing figure, so teched-out he simply must be a single-
ISTOCK: CHATCHAI SOMWAT
Right: Sergio Garcia, 2013 Below: Bobby Jones, 1920s
digit. He doesn’t wear wingtips, but shoes that look designed for skateboarding. His clothing is loaded with performance attributes and splattered with manufacturers’ logos. He wears a baseball cap, where yet another logo blares its brand loyalty. Everything is color-coordinated, from his glove to his belt to driver head, which comes with 12 hosel adjustments. This is the Technocrat. In the near future, research will find that pants and zippered pullovers create wind resistance, and that a spandex bodysuit—the kind speed-skaters wear—can increase clubhead speed by an average of 1.2 miles per hour. This guy will be the first at his club to wear one. On the surface it would seem like little in the game of golf has changed: you still try to hit a ball 400 yards into a four-and-a-half-inch hole in four strokes. Yet golf has always been driven by change and technology—the old balls were called featheries precisely because they were stuffed with feathers. And the world of golf instruction is increasingly accepting that there is no perfect onesize-fits-all swing, and that it’s more a matter of finding your own unique way of achieving the desired result. Dressing for golf should be no different: you can wear whatever the hell you want, so long as it works for you.
72
style
NORMal
to the CORE
Why your wardrobe needs quality basics.
need to flaunt a lot of details or patterns or status labels these days. Consider instead a soft white cotton T-shirt under a washed linen sportcoat, worn with a light denim pant and a plain white sneaker (sans logo). The air already feels lighter. The quality of these simple pieces is what stands out, and the less “branded” the look, the better. So who’s the new hero of high-fashion normcore? Might it not be the shleppy-looking fashion designer taking a bow at the end of his runway show?
Larry David and Jerry Seinfeld have put a function-over-fashion lifestyle on the luxury map.
GETTY1
For centuries, luxury fashion pushed the limits of wearability. Fussy styles and decadent details by famous designers were said to reflect wealth, extravagance and certainly status. Fast-forward to 2016. Those almighty fashion houses still stand, but the look of luxury has taken a different course. The most notable influencers of the past two years? Larry David and Jerry Seinfeld. Yes, these two have put simple sneakers, tapered denim, casual sportcoats and a function-over-fashion lifestyle on the luxury map. It is, without a doubt, their version of wealth, success and status that has altered what we are seeing today on runways and sidewalks alike. Normcore is the name. Hardcore normal is the game. The term was first coined by K-Hole, a New York-based cultural reporting agency that suggested Millennials wanted to seek out individual identities by blending in versus undertaking the exhausting effort to stand out. Thus the “more-going-on-inside-than-meets-the-eye” look has become wildly popular. And big luxury brands are picking up what Larry and Jerry have (unwittingly) put down. Fendi released its spring/summer 2016 collection in Milan, showcasing its take on this trend with an array of minimalist shapes, colors and comfortable silhouettes. Other industry pioneers of normcore include Prada, Celine, Vince and Chanel, so be prepared for others (including the fast-fashion copycats that clothe the masses) to follow suit. The desire for high-end basics is definitely happening and it will likely continue for some time. Recently, Harvard researchers conducted an interesting study revealing customer behavior in luxury retail stores. They concluded that people shopping in tracksuits are actually perceived as more confident and likely to splurge than those waltzing through the doors in fancy clothes or otherwise contrived outfits. While we’re not advocating that the trend be taken to the tracksuit extreme, we must admit that unpretentious people dressed in simple, well-made attire seem to be the epitome of cool these days. For surely, looking confident and appropriate while staying comfortable is a luxury in itself—and in a society that has become less formal, it makes perfect sense. Now that upscale brands are presenting more relaxed, well-styled basics in luxury fabrics, it’s easier than ever to look great without trying too hard. In fact, you don’t
BY NATALIE GALAS
74
Guilloche CiselĂŠ Slate Grey The deep matte surface in slate grey combined with the shimmering engraved Herringbone pattern creates a unique and very pleasant feel. The highly polished rhodium plated cap, end piece and grip contrast beautifully with the engraved barrel.
travel
Brijuni
The elusive islands of Croatia. BY STAN WILLIAMS
ne of the first decisions you’ll have to make when planning a trip to the secluded archipelago of Brijuni off the Istrian coast of Croatia is whether to book a Socialist-era room or an updated one in the only hotel on the main island of Veli Brijun. (Anyone who knows of my love of history and vintage style can guess what my Croatian-born partner and I chose for our late-summer stay.) Part of Italy until after World War II, it was originally called Brioni, the name inspiration for the chic Italian men’s line that was founded in 1945. Previously the private getaway of the late Yugoslavian president Josip Broz Tito, the islands, designated a national park and opened to the public in 1983, now go by their Croatian name, Brijuni. Over the years, friends who have visited this oasis urged us to prioritize it as a destination, as rumors have circulated about a large hotel chain or moneyed developer eyeing it as a prime location for an exclusive resort. So far, the chatter has been just that, and a stay today continues to recall the mid-1950s, accented with a splash of modern luxury. But the allure of a bygone era remains, from the original
Above: An aerial view of the Brijuni islands. Left: A column from the remains of a 1st-century Roman villa.
76
The Art of Tailoring
while vacationing in a lush national park? Days are better spent swimming, both on a nearby beach and in the many hidden nooks around Veli Brijun. There’s also a safari park that prides itself on protecting endangered species, world-class golfing and tennis, and romantic pathways among ancient Roman ruins. The sole way to get around the island, other than on foot, is by bicycle or golf cart. There are few restrictions on where visitors are allowed to venture, but private residences reserved for Croatia’s political elites and areas used by the military are off limits. Since the island can accommodate only those who arrive via ferry, overcrowding is never a problem. While riding over the paths that loop through the island, it felt as if we were the only ones there. A rainy day is a good excuse to walk through the Tito Museum, where photographs of high-profile visitors are on view; Liz Taylor, Richard Burton, Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida were among the president’s many guests. Museum-goers can even take a spin in Tito’s restored 1952 Cadillac Eldorado, which he endeared with the name “Victoria,” or just take a photo with her for a couple of dollars. Dining options are limited, so reserving an outdoor table for the Hotel Neptun-Istra’s evening meal is strongly suggested. While not extravagant, service is excellent and meals run about $35 per person, including a delicious glass of Istrian white Malvazia. But then who’s thinking about food when a spectacular view of the sea beckons attention? At 11 p.m., a sudden stillness settles in as the last ferry makes its way back to the mainland, leaving us to ponder the mysteries of this magical island.
IMAGES COURTESY OF BRIJUNI NATIONAL PARK
light fixtures in the bar to the Mid-century headboard in our pleasant, semi-Socialist-era room in the Neptun-Istra building. It was a step up from rooms in the Karmen, where bare-boned but comfortable rooms start at €33 (about $38) a night. But even in the Istra wing, which has undergone a thorough renovation, the most expensive rooms cost €292 (about $330), a bargain for many U.S. travelers. Lodging includes a generous breakfast buffet. (Pay an extra dollar and order coffee from a waiter; it’s worth it.) Transfers to and from Veli Brijun, the main island among 14 smaller islands, are also included. It’s reachable only by ferry from the town of Fažana, where those arriving by car must leave their vehicles in a private parking lot reserved for Brijuni guests. What our room lacked in updates—no air conditioning (didn’t need it!), thin mattresses, uncoordinated furniture—it made up for in pure charm. Ceilings soared; the space was more than 450 square feet including a gigantic bathroom; and our spacious private terrace offered a to-die-for view of the entire harbor spotted with yachts bobbing dreamily in the Adriatic Sea. Besides, why spend any more time than necessary in a hotel room
The island, part of Italy until after World War II, was originally called Brioni, the name inspiration for the chic Italian men’s line that was founded in 1945.” Clockwise from top left: An updated room in the Istra hotel; an ancient olive tree dating back to the 4th century; guests at the entrance to Brijuni’s Safari Park.
78
SJ K .C OM
THE MEASURE OF A MAN
W
hether choosing to customize a stock pattern or creating one
Some may have the perception that the made-
from scratch, the made-to-measure man
to-measure process is complicated and time-consuming,
wants a suit that reflects his personality.
but companies like Ermenegildo Zegna can create a full custom suit in as few as four to six weeks through
Creating a “full custom” suit involves getting
technology and ownership of the fabrication process
measurements throughout the body to build a unique
from beginning to end.
pattern, but designers in the Oak Hall collection are increasingly offering a variety of personalized options that can make any suit totally unique.
From lapel shape to pocket lining, vents to buttons, fabric blend to jacket length, bespoke details flatter and accent the wearer.
80
OAKHALL.COM
“When you know this garment is made for you, that makes a huge difference. Individuality will set you apart.” Tim Pait, Ermenegildo Zegna Specialist
D E D I C AT I O N T O E V E R Y D E TA I L
When opening the doors to Oak Hall’s new Nashville location, every guest will be in touch with our roots. The custom bronze door handle bearing Oak Hall’s iconic acorn logo was crafted by blacksmiths at Memphis’ National Ornamental Metal Museum,
MAKING A BOLD ENTRANCE
the country’s only museum dedicated to the art of fine metalwork. The laser-cut components were hand-welded together to form solid, seamless pieces, and then buffed and sanded into two flatteringly contrasting textures by apprentice blacksmith Ann Klicka, who is particularly fond of bronze’s unique character and ability to age beautifully.
SPRING 2016
“The bronze is velvety, almost buttery in comparison to steel,” says Klicka. “But over time, hands wear away a little bit of the surface. It takes a long time for that to happen, but gives a presence of age and stability.”
OAKHALL.COM
81
OAK HALL FORUM SPRING 2016