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FALL’S FANTASTIC FASHIONS BECOME A WEEKEND WINNER WORLD SCENE
DECIPHERING MODERN FITS
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CONTENTS OAK HALL 6150 Poplar Avenue Memphis TN 38119 901-761-3580 oakhall.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser INTERIM MANAGING EDITOR
Brian Scott Lipton PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN
FEATURES 8 Furnishings: Fit Fanatic 22 Profile: Improving With Age 69 Profile: Off the Clock
FASHION 10 Fall Must-Haves
DEPARTMENTS 4 6 64 71 72
Welcome Letter Jake’s Pages World Scene Recent Events End Page: Dressing Up the Weekend Wardrobe
Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2015. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 18, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
Welcome to the Fall 2015 OAK HALL FORUM MAGAZINE
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hat’s not to love about fall? The weather is cooler, football season is upon us and, with it, the spirit of rejuvenation and hope for a fun season. That is the same way we feel at Oak Hall. We’re excited about the launch of our expanded website and all the latest fashions and brands we’ve added to our selections online and in the store. We’re also grateful that some things never change, like the inspiration and joy we receive from each and every one of you. Our customers are at the heart of everything we do, and we look forward to seeing you in the store and online very soon. With best wishes, Will, Bill, Bob Levy and Jake and the entire Oak Hall family
furnishings
fit
Regular, classic, slim, trim, skinny, modern, contemporary, fitted—how to know which shirt is you.
FANATIC THE GOOD NEWS: These days, you’re very likely to find a ready-made shirt that fits. Designers have eschewed yesterday’s loose flowy styles, eliminating excess fabric so that today’s shirts lie closer to the body. Comfortable, flattering and perfect for today’s trimmer suits and sportcoats, the new slim shirts are often worn without the coat and tie.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF ROBERT TALBOTT
THE CAVEAT: Each manufacturer has its own definition of “slim” so sizing varies greatly from one maker to the next. With a little trial and error (or one of our great sales associates), you can readily find the right cut from the right brand, but fit labels can be confusing if you’re shopping on your own. THE SUGGESTION: For a nearly comparable price, consider made-to-measure. You’ll get numerous collar options, and you can choose from among thousands of swatches, buttons, stitching details, monograms, etc. And most importantly: a perfect fit designed and detailed just for you!
HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC.
Oak Hall
MUST-HAVES FALL 2015
profile
One of the oldest continually operating companies in the world, Faber-Castell remains the leading manufacturer of wood-cased pencils, along with a wide assortment of luxury writing instruments, leather accessories, art materials, creative craft kits and luxury cosmetic pencils. To recount the history of Faber-Castell, one must begin with Kaspar Faber, who lived from 1730 to 1784 in a small village outside Nuremberg, Germany. A cabinet maker by trade, he had a side business producing pencils, which he sold from a basket in the village market. Its success soon made pencil-making the family’s primary business, and Kaspar’s son Anton Wilhelm took it over upon his death. Remarkably, the site Anton Wilhelm acquired on the outskirts of Stein to build his first workshop still remains as the company’s global headquarters. In 1849, Lothar von Faber became the first family member to expand beyond the borders of Germany. He set up foreign subsidiaries first in New York, and then in Vienna, London, St. Petersburg and Paris. In 1870, A.W. Faber became the fifth entry in the U.S. Trademark Register, and today bears the distinction of being the oldest active registered trademark in existence. A roughly $700 million business, Faber-Castell currrently employs 7,000 people in 100 countries around the globe. As if surviving (and growing) for more than two centuries wasn’t enough of an achievement, Faber-Castell is also credited with helping pass the first trademark laws to protect brand name products; inventing the hexagonal pencil shape; founding Germany’s first life insurance company in 1884 (which is still in existence today); and being the drawing tool of choice for artists including Vincent Van Gogh, Paul Klee and cartoonist Carl Barks. What hasn’t changed over Faber-Castell’s long history is its serious commitment to making the world’s highest-quality writing implements. The eighth generation is currently at the helm, led by Count Anton Wolfgang von Faber-Castell. His wife, Countess Mary, serves as managing director of FC Cosmetics, a division for which they both have a special affinity, while the couple’s four children are preparing for their own futures within the company. Faber-Castell continues to be a family business like few others.
A.W. Faber bears the distinction of being the oldest active registered trademark in existence.
Above: Anton Wolfgang Graf von Faber-Castell.
IMPROVING WITH AGE FABER-CASTELL CONTINUES TO MAKE THE ORDINARY EXTRAORDINARY.
FABER-CASTELL
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
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FALL 2015 MARKS THE 25TH ANNIVERSARY OF BILLS KHAKIS. What started as one pair of original WWII khakis and an idea, has grown into a brand that symbolizes the spirit of American manufacturing and quality. You have dutifully worn through pair after pair, faithfully coming back to replace that which has grown so familiar. Thank you for finding both value and purpose in what we do.
HILTL REVOLUTIONIZES THE TRAVEL TROUSER. HIGH PERFORMANCE FABRICS OFFER COMPLETE FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT IN MODERN SILHOUETTES. AVAILABLE IN WOOL, COTTON AND DENIM.
Š2015 A Genesco Company
SJ K .C OM
world scene
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
Experience life’s little luxuries. CATCH A FALLING STAR The town of Churchill in Manitoba, Canada is
BRAD JOSEPHS
located directly beneath the Van Allen Belt: a layer of energy-charged particles that surrounds the Earth’s polar regions, creating one of the heaviest concentrations of auroral activity in the world and making this unique spot among the best places on the planet to view the Northern Lights. This year you can stargaze in complete comfort in the Aurora Pod, created by Natural Habitat Adventures. This exclusive, custom-built structure featuring geometric glass construction (from waistheight up) is fully heated and equipped with reclining chairs for a 360-degree, unobstructed view of the celestial phenomenon. To complete the experience, naturalist expedition leaders provide information about Northern Canada’s geology, history, wildlife, cultures and, of course, the Aurora Borealis.
DASHING THROUGH THE SNOW The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel, located in Alberta's Banff National Park amid mountain peaks, the majestic Victoria Glacier and a glistening emerald lake, has worldclass skiing, a luxury spa and exceptional dining. There’s also the Brewster Stables which, during the winter months, can arrange for you to be whisked away on a truly lovely sleigh ride to the end of Lake Louise. The sleighs are traditionally styled with cozy upholstered seats and blankets to keep you warm and comfortable. You can order hot chocolate and a picnic lunch to be served during the ride. To make the day even more memorable, pop open a bottle of Champagne and toast the holidays.
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FOLLOW THE FOOD TRAIL In the heart of Napa Valley, the chic little town of Yountville affords an array of fine lodging, golf, art galleries, antique stores and performing arts venues. However, its main claim to fame is the gourmet mile, made up of a collection of renowned (many Michelin-starred) restaurants. Take a stroll along this impressive stretch and discover some of the best food and wine in America. Among the most notable is Lucy Restaurant & Bar at the fashionable Bardessono Hotel, which offers sommelier-led food and wine tastings and a chance to walk through Chef Victor’s kitchen garden. (During harvest season you can book a garden party with the chef.) Right down the street is Thomas Keller’s famed French Laundry (scheduled to reopen this fall) and his other eateries, Bouchon, Bouchon Bakery and Ad Hoc. Keller’s Kitchen Garden is nearby and you’re welcome to drop in any time. You could also join the Chocolate Club at Kollar Chocolates, where Chef Kollar creates artistic confections. And the Secret Garden at Hill Family Estate, which supplies ingredients to the French Laundry and other area restaurants, will take you on an hour-long guided tasting tour. This is clearly no place to count calories.
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profile L-R: Mike and Alex Faherty
OFF THE CLOCK FAHERTY OFFERS RELAXED LUXURY FOR A TIMELESS STYLE. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI
Faherty is the quintessential off-duty, weekend brand. The collection’s luxurious fabrics and modern designs keep you completely comfortable while maintaining an effortless sense of cool. Every fabrication and pattern is hand-designed by cofounder Mike Faherty, giving the collection (and you) a unique look that no one else will have. Mike, who got his start designing for Ralph Lauren’s famed RRL brand, founded Faherty with his twin brother Alex (a former investment banker) in 2013. “We think customers are more interested than ever in smaller brands,” says Alex. “Faherty has an artisanal quality to it and we want to tell our story.” That story includes ethically sourced and sustainable materials like recycled poly and organic cotton manufactured in a factory using a closed-loop filtration system that reuses water. “Alex and I grew up wearing brands like Patagonia and we always wanted to create a company that makes sustainable decisions,” reveals Mike. Fall 2015 highlights include classic brushed flannels, lightweight poplins and natural-dyed indigo shirting. “Our shirting collection has this washed, vintage vibe to complement denim,” explains Mike. “We treat our plaid tops similarly to denim, creating a nice patina. We understand the wash for making new shirts feel old but still luxurious. Lightweight fabrics are also key for fall because they give you the seasonal look without heaviness.”
The fall collection focuses on shades of blue, experimenting with various indigo hues within the plaid patterns. “It’s less about multi-colored plaids this season and more about highlights of blue within the plaid with a dusty red or cream accent,” explains Mike. They’re also offering double-faced reversible printed/solid styles that can be worn two ways, making them the perfect shirts for travel or to take you from day to night. And keep an eye out for Faherty’s mobile beach house, a traveling store that gives the brothers the chance to meet their customers, stopping at stores across America. The “beach house on wheels,” which touts eco-friendly solar panels, recycled piping and reclaimed barn wood, offers an innovative venue for customers to experience the brand in a completely different way. “We’re finding success bridging the gap between fathers and sons,” reveals Mike. “The beach house allows us to meet likeminded guys who love our product. It’s been a lot of fun.”
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INSIGHT FROM A STYLIST. BY NICOLA HARRISON RUIZ
start. He would walk into a large department store, feel overwhelmed by what can be a poorly organized selection and walk back out the door. To start, we shopped for slim-fitting, dark jeans that were dressy enough for dinner but comfortable enough to wear while sitting on the floor to play with his little boy. We also found some great five-pocket twill pants to wear as a denim alternative. We bought sport shirts so that he never had to be reminded of his days FASHION at the office while out with friends FAUX PAS His crime: on the weekend, a vest to layer on sacrificing style on the weekend. chilly Saturday mornings when he walked the dog and picked up coffee, and a so-soft sportcoat that was just as comfortable as that old college sweatshirt. Some streamlined leather sneakers we picked up (his wife’s favorite new addition) means Daniel can stop committing the biggest weekend wear faux pas of all: wearing gym sneakers with his jeans! One thing I’ve learned while working as a personal stylist is that most guys want to look good, but often feel insecure when it comes to selecting clothes and dressing well. Yet, as soon as they have a few new outfits in their closet that fit them well, are on trend for the season and are easy to put together, they often experience a huge surge of personal confidence. If you’re the kind of guy who shies away from shopping, reach out to someone who specializes in this field. You don’t need to hire a personal stylist: a good sales associate will know how to fit and flatter you by asking a few lifestyle questions and looking at your body type and skin tone. Before you go shopping, make a list of items that will complete your closet. Your sales associate can do this if you opt for a home visit. Let the pros help cure you of your weekend wardrobe woes. Your wife will be forever grateful.
“He needs your help,” Daniel’s wife implored. “He’s got nothing to wear.” As a personal stylist I’d heard this before, but in Daniel’s case something didn’t add up. I’d met him before and he was always impeccably dressed. When I arrived at his apartment for the wardrobe edit, his closet was just as I’d expected: meticulously organized, full of custom suits, shirts and polished dress shoes. “Where’s the rest?” I inquired, and was directed to a drawer with a lonely pair of baggy jeans a few scraggly T-shirts. It turned out that this man, like many guys, was put together at all times for his colleagues and business associates, but was a “weekend slob” when it came time to be with his beautiful wife and child. “What do you wear on date night?” I asked. He shrugged. “I just throw on jeans with my dress shirt from the office.” “And on Saturday if you go out for brunch?” He pulled out a wrinkled, faded T-shirt and old college sweatshirt. “Shoes?” I asked. He pointed to the sneakers he wears to the gym. Ironically, it was his colleagues, friends and strangers on the subway who had the pleasure of experiencing Dapper Daniel. His wife—the person who vowed to look at him day in and day out for the rest of her life—was the one who got the sloppy leftovers, and she was clearly disappointed that he wasn’t making an effort. The problem was simple; when it came to buying casual clothes, Daniel didn’t know where to
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DRESSING UP THE WEEKEND WARDROBE
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