SPRING 2017 COLLECTION
3 4
GREETI NGS FROM JAKE
6
ASK FORUM FOR HI M
9
GETTI NG SNEAKY
12 14 16 64
WELCOME
PROFI LE: BRAX
PROFI LE: BI LLY REI D OAK HALL MUST HAVES
SO YOU WANT TO BE A SOMMELI ER
70 72
OVER-THE-TOP EATS MI LAN: I NSI DER PI CKS
74 76
I NSPI RED DESI GN
WHY CLOTHES MATTER
Fa s h i o n S h oo t L oc a t i o n A N N E S DA L E M A N S I O N , M E MP H I S , TN P h o to g raph e r S E A N B LO O M E R E DE N B O OTH
SPRING 2017
R E D I S C OV E R what makes you
R E M A R K A BLE It’s a time to rediscover the remarkable world around us. A time to renew, recharge and reboot. As we enter our 158th spring, we look forward to helping you rediscover your seasonal best. Visit us at our Memphis and Nashville stores or online. You’ll find the latest spring collections from the world’s most admired brands. And service tailored to the remarkable person that you are.
Thank you for being a part of the Oak Hall family.
ask
I’d like a new sport coat that’s not a basic blazer. What do you suggest?
Q:
I see a lot of guys wearing What kind of shirt would look shorter, tighter suits these great worn both with and days; is that still the look for 2017? without a tie?
Q:
Q:
Patterns, be they subtle or loud, are definitely happening in spring sport coats. We love the more muted plaids in shades of blue, berry or soft gray, but feel free to make a bolder statement if you dare, especially since these fashion-forward sport coats work as well with jeans and fivepocket pants as they do with dress trousers.
Only if you’re comfortable in it. The more important factor is that the suit should fit: anything too baggy or long is definitely out of style. Some general rules: shoulders should reflect your natural shoulder stance, sleeves should allow a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff showing, buttons on the coat shouldn’t pull, pants (whether flatfront or pleated) should feel comfortable, without ripples but without excess fabric. Trouser length should skim the top of your shoe, but a slight break is also acceptable. Fortunately, today’s suits in new performance fabrics enhance both fit and comfort. Let us show you a few exciting options.
There’s a new kind of shirt referred to as a hybrid: somewhere between dress shirt and sport shirt. Often, there’s a button between the traditional first and second button positions, so that even if you’re not wearing a tie, the impression is neater. Look also for sporty details like contrast fabric in the collar and/or sleeve cuff, contrast buttons, or brightly stitched buttonholes that won’t show if you’re wearing a tie. Speaking of new spring ties, why not try a more casual knit, or a seasonal blend with cotton, silk or linen?
6
IMAGE COURTESY OF ETON
SPRING 2017 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
GOOD. BETTER. PERFETTO. A DEMANDING SCHEDULE REQUIRES TROUSERS THAT PERFORM PERFETTO FROM HILTL MEANS ALL DAY COMFORT AND ALL DAY PERFECT SHAPE. AVAILABLE IN COTTON, WOOL & DENIM
SN GettingE A KY SLEEK LEATHER TRAINERS ARE A GREAT COMPLEMENT TO FIVE-POCKET PANTS. With a lightweight jacket and cool cotton shirt, this will become your go-to spring look.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER. FASHION DIRECTION BY MICHAEL FUSCO. STYLING ASSISTANCE BY LEAH SNOW.
PETER MILLAR OUTERWEAR, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHIRT, PETER MILLAR PANT, W. KLEINBERG BELT, SHINOLA WATCH, MAGNANNI SNEAKER
S P R I N G 2 017 F O OT W E A R C O L L E C T I O N
©2017 A Genesco Company
PA I S LE Y
LEWI S
profile
the
Bottoms
GERMAN BRAND BRAX IS QUICKLY BECOMING THE AMERICAN MAN’S GO-TO FOR PANTS. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
line
Sure, every man needs a great-looking blazer, a soft cashmere sweater and a well-tailored shirt, both to gain attention and feel put-together. However, without comfortable, well-fitting pants to complete the look, you’ve only won half the battle. So it shouldn’t be surprising that bottoms from German-based Brax, a company with over a century of experience, have become many men’s go-to since recently being introduced in America. Men have quickly grown to appreciate the brand’s durability, comfort, performance and consistency in fit (not to mention the fact that it offers a broad range of waist sizes). “What’s so great about these pants is that they’re dressy enough to go with a sport jacket, but casual enough to become what we call an anchor bottom,” says Russ Fearon, president of Throat Threads Apparel, the U.S. distributor of Brax. “The modern aesthetic, soft luxurious feel and stretch comfort create phenomenal value for the sophisticated-casual consumer.” Above all, though, Brax has become valued for its versatility. “American men have found they have a need for a more dressy pair of pants in their wardrobe than jeans, something they can wear to the office and then to a business dinner or a nice restaurant,” Fearon explains. As he points out, the pants’ fabric is a key selling point for Brax. “The Germans have been using the finest Italian and German weaving mills for their products for more than 100 years,” Fearon continues. “All the fabrics are exclusive to Brax, and we work with them closely to create something that is highly engineered, with a luxury feel, yet at a great price point for the American consumer.” (Most Brax pants retail for $189 to $249.) In addition, Brax pants are washable, and many men appreciate that convenience. “I think Brax has carved out a space all its own: a pant that is perfectly positioned between sophistication and leisure,” says Fearon. “And the one thing I know for certain is that whenever a new customer puts on a pair of Brax for the first time, they immediately say, ‘Wow!’”
12
profile
Rock & Roll
Gent
THE AWARD-WINNING BILLY REID TAKES CLASSIC AMERICAN CLOTHING IN A MODERN DIRECTION. BY LAURIE SCHECHTER What makes your designs unique as well as American? I want to make clothes that are appropriate whether you’re living in Florence, Alabama or New York. I’ve spent much of my time in these two polar opposite worlds. I’ve realized that that “dual citizenship” continues to influence the collection and really helps bring a personal and real approach to the process.
What are your signature styles? Not so easy to answer as we cover many categories. People seem to love our outerwear, leather and knits. We try to put our own touches on each piece and hopefully, those subtle and often hidden details are what they fall in love with.
illy Reid got his start in fashion helping out in his mom’s boutique in Amite, Louisiana, eventually founding his eponymous brand in 2004. His aesthetic, once described as “Southern gentility with rock & roll appeal,” pervades full product offerings for men, women, footwear and accessories. His emphasis on USA manufacturing, proprietary textile development and high-quality construction sustain the label’s longevity. Forum spoke to him about his legacy and his spring collection.
What key pieces should a customer always have? I would tell any man that he needs a good suit, a navy blazer, some jeans that fit and a well-worn leather brogue. You can pretty much start there and make it work.
What new ideas do we find in your spring collection? This collection focuses on lightness in both color and fabric. I was really inspired by all the natural landscapes near my home, so we developed some prints using oysters, herons and palm leaves that we turned into short-sleeve shirts. We mixed these with washed linens, silks and easy luxury knits. Wearable and liveable.
What is your aim with every collection?
What are you most proud of?
We want to create pieces that become our customers’ favorites. I want them to be like furniture and live with you.
The community we’ve built around this brand. I get to work with my friends and interact with our community every day. We all place such a high value on authenticity and craftsmanship, and I hope that resonates.
How do your Southern life, early retail exposure, and music all inform your aesthetic?
What piece of advice would you give to your younger self?
My professional experience in retail and my personal experience having grown up with my mother owning a boutique certainly inspire my approach to business. My love for music and being based in Muscle Shoals is spiritual for us. It provides great creative energy.
If you want to get in the business, get your foot in the door and work your tail off. No job is a waste of time. Listen and learn.
And to your customer? Quality is key, and make sure you’re going to use what you buy.
14
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Sport Coat, Dress Shirt & Trousers
ETON
Neckwear
16
OAKHALL.COM
ISAIA
Sport Coat, Sport Shirt, Trouser & Neckwear
OAKHALL.COM
17
CANALI
Sport Coats
ETON
Contemporary Dress Shirts & Neckwear
HILTL
Trousers
18
OAKHALL.COM
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Sport Coat & Knit Shirt
OAKHALL.COM
19
LBM 1911
Jack Sport Coat 396LBM0108 - $895 Grey
ETON
Contemporary Dress Shirt 214ETO0100 - $265 White
CITIZENS OF HUMANITY 369CTZ0107 - $198 Parchment
20
OAKHALL.COM
ELEVENTY
Sport Coat, Sport Shirt, Outerwear, & Trouser
OAKHALL.COM
21
On Him
LUCIANO BARBERA Sport Coat, Sport Shirt & Trousers
On Her
RAG & BONE Alma Dress 411RAG0100 - $550 Seed Pearl
LOEFFLER RANDALL Finley Sandal 480LOE0139 - $350 Black
MIGNONNE GAVIGAN Keely Earrings 460MGV0118 - $95 Silver
22
OAKHALL.COM
311LED0100 - $165
311LED0102 - $145
311LED0106 - $145
311LED0101 - $165
311LED0105 - $145
OAKHALL.COM
23
From Left to Right Dress Shirts 210ETO0150 - $285 210ETO0145 - $265 210ETO0152 - $275 210ETO0153 - $275 210ETO0144 - $265 210ETO0148 - $265
24
OAKHALL.COM
SAMUELSOHN
Sport Coat 128SAM0108 - $1,295
ROBERT TALBOTT Sport Shirt 311TAL0100 - $288
OAKHALL.COM
25
CITIZENS OF HUMANITY From Top to Bottom 369CTZ0108 - $228 7 Lakes 369CTZ0104 - $228 Smokewood 370CTZ0114 - $228 Silverstone 370CTZ0107 - $228 Atticus 369CTZ0106 - $218 Alterra 369CTZ0109 - $224 Harrison 370CTZ0108 - $198 Blackburn 368CTZ0105 - $208 Laos 368CTZ0109 - $238 Black Rock
26
OAKHALL.COM
CULTURATA Soft Touch Cotton Plaid 311CUL0112 - $195 Blue Soft Touch Cotton Plaid 311CUL0113 - $195 Green Soft Wash Plaid 311CUL0111 - $195 Purple OAKHALL.COM
27
PETER MILLAR Iceland Check Sport Shirt 311MIL0131- $125 Retro Pink Sateen Stretch Five-Pocket Pant 369MIL0102 - $145 Dark Sand
28
OAKHALL.COM
PETER MILLAR Crown Soft Stripe Polo 334MIL0111 - $125 Warwick Beige PaciямБc Pant 390MIL0102 - $145 Stone OAKHALL.COM
29
PETER MILLAR Seaside Wash Stripe Polo 334MIL0113 - $88 Dragon Fly Salem High Drape Performance Pin Cord Short 356MIL0100 - $95 Seafoam
30
OAKHALL.COM
PETER MILLAR Seaside Wash Stripe Polo 334MIL0113 - $88 Bisque, Seaweed, Atlantic Blue, Beach Glass, Pink Coral, Lemonade
OAKHALL.COM
31
PETER MILLAR Paisley Neat 352MIL0106 - $85 Seaweed Seashell Lobsters 352MIL0110 - $85 Atlantic Blue Hula Girl 352MIL0109 - $85 Seaweed Bob’s Buoys 352MIL0107 - $85 Atlantic Blue Peacock Repeat 352MIL0108 - $85 Seaweed
32
OAKHALL.COM
BENSON
Long-Sleeve Linen Sport Shirt 313BSN0100 - $130 Navy, Pink, Grey, White, Dark Grey, Pale Blue, Cobalt Blue
OAKHALL.COM
33
FAHERTY Ventura Sport Shirt 311FAH0122 - $128 Light Blue/Grey Plaid All Day Short 360FAH0100 - $98 Charcoal
34
OAKHALL.COM
FAHERTY Ventura Woven Shirt 311FAH0118 - $128 Red Blue Plaid Heather Polo 336FAH0101 - $88 Faded Red Summer Blend Ventura Shirt 311FAH0121 - $148 Summer Red Plaid, Turquoise Plaid Heather Polo 336FAH0101 - $88 Charcoal Summer Blend Ventura Shirt 311FAH0120 - $148 Blue Plaid
OAKHALL.COM
35
FAHERTY
Heather Polo 336FAH0101 - $88 Charcoal
BARBOUR
Arcus Jacket 376BAR0121 - $299 Navy
AG JEANS
Matchbox 370ADG0122 - $225 3 Years Cinema
36
OAKHALL.COM
Brushed Cotton Five Pocket 369ADG0102, 369ADG0103, 370ADG0106, 368ADG0122, 370ADG0103, 368ADG0121, 369ADG0107, 369ADG0105 - $178 Castlerock, Forrest Brown, Dark Wheat, Baked Clay, Burch, Dapple Grey, Steel Blue, City Fog
OAKHALL.COM
37
FAHERTY Backloop Crewneck 326FAH0107 - $138 Grey Surf Stripe Summer Blend Venture Sport Shirt 311FAH0120 - $148 Blue Stretch Chino Short 360FAH0101 - $98 Faded Navy
38
OAKHALL.COM
BILLY REID Left Knit Short-Sleeve Polo 334BLR0100 - $95 Lake Blue Clyde Linen Short 358BLR0100 - $125 Eggshell Right Tuscumbia Sport Shirt 311BLR0100 - $195 Brown/Blue Clyde Linen Short 358BLR0100 - $125 Sea Blue
OAKHALL.COM
39
On Him
SAMUELSOHN Sport Coat
ETON Contemporary Dress Shirt
PT01 Trousers
On Her
CATHERINE DEANE Fjola Dress 491CDN0103 - $795 Navy/Almond
JORDAN ALEXANDER Gold & Diamond Huggie Hoops 492JOR0101 - $1,240
40
OAKHALL.COM
TRINA TURK Benita Dress 411TNA0103 - $278 Indigo
EF COLLECTION Diamond Disc Stud Earrings 460EFC0138 - $895 Rose Gold
OAKHALL.COM
41
REBECCA TAYLOR Sleeveless Floral Jaquard Dress 411TAY0104 - $595 Ballet
EF COLLECTION Diamond Disc Stud Earrings 460EFC0138 - $895 Rose Gold Diamond X Ring 460EFC0127 - $850 Rose Gold
JOIE Kaelyn Wedge 480JOI0137 - $278 Powder
42
OAKHALL.COM
On Him
LBM 1911 Soft Jacket 396LBM0109 - $875 Blue
ETON Contemporary Dress Shirt 210ETO0149 - $275 Pink
AG JEANS 370ADG0123 - $235 19 Years Modernist
On Her
REBECCA TAYLOR Sleeveless Phlox Slip Dress 411TAY0105 - $350 Dark Navy
LOEFFLER RANDALL Livi Sandal 480LOE0140 - $195 Gold
EF COLLECTION 14K Diamond Double Mini Chevron Necklace 460EFC0103 - $550 White Gold Baguette Sapphire Fade Necklace 460EFC0139 - $1,625 White Gold Diamond Electric Zig Zag Bangle 460EFC0134 - $2,365 White Gold
OAKHALL.COM
43
L’AGENCE Harlow Trench Dress 411LAG0100 - $645 Chanterelle
LOEFFLER RANDALL Bea Sandal 480LOE0141 - $375 Linen Multi
EF COLLECTION Diamond X Ring See pg. 46
44
OAKHALL.COM
REBECCA TAYLOR Suiting Jacket 418TAY0101 - $425 Cream Suiting Pant 425TAY0100 - $295 Cream
L’AGENCE Jane Tank 435LAG0103 - $195 Chanterelle
EF COLLECTION Diamond Disc Stud Earrings 460EFC0138 - $895 Rose Gold 14K Diamond Double Mini Chevron Necklace 460EFC0103 - $550 Yellow Gold
OAKHALL.COM
45
CINQ A SEPT Kaidin Dress 411CQS0100 - $445 Black/Ivory
ALEXIS BITTAR Dewdrop Earrings 460ALX0112 - $150 Ash
46
OAKHALL.COM
ALC Rollins Dress 411ALC0100 - $695 Black
ANDREW HARPER BY JORDAN ALEXANDER Diamond Pearl Earrings 460JOR0119 - $345 White
OAKHALL.COM
47
On Her
ALC Binx Top 435ALC0100 - $275 White Peach
AG Hailey Boyfriend Short 430ADG0108 - $158 Sulfer Silver Sage Terrain
LOEFFLER RANDALL Logan Sneaker 480LOE0142 - $325 Ivory
KREWE DU OPTIC St. Louis Sunglasses 474KRW0101 - $235 Matte Black
MIGNONNE GAVIGAN Extender Bracelet 460MGV0127 - $35 Nude
On Him
CULTURATA Barre Strip Sport Shirt 311CUL0108 - $195 Blue/Tan
AG Griffin Short 358ADG0100 - $125 Desert Stone
48
OAKHALL.COM
REBECCA TAYLOR Short Sleeve Cold Shoulder 438TAY0105 - $195 Grey Melange
JBRAND Mid-Rise Capri 430JBD0103 - $228 Debutante
EF COLLECTION Diamond X Ring See pg. 46
OAKHALL.COM
49
RAILS Everett Top 435RLS0101 - $158 Desert Camo
AG JEANS Prima 430ADG0105 - $178 Cold Pigment Chiffon
ATM Sweetheart Tank 440ATM0100 - $75 White
EVER ALICE Penny Necklace 460HBD0111 - $147
50
OAKHALL.COM
JOIE Hawn Top 435JOI0107 - $198 Petal/Porcelain
AG JEANS Erin Pencil Skirt 430ADG0107 - $168 17 Years Lapse Mended
MIGNONNE GAVIGAN Extender Bracelet See pg. 52
REBECCA MINKOFF Sandy 480RMS0107 - $125 Nude Shiny Calf
OAKHALL.COM
51
RAILS Charli Top 435RLS0100 - $148 White/Royal/Magenta
J BRAND Mid-Rise Short 430JBD0101 - $158 Razed Blanc
52
OAKHALL.COM
WHITE + WARREN Striped Tee Dress 411WAW0101 - $185 Black
KREWE DU OPTIC Breton Sunglasses 474KRW0118 - $235 Black
EF COLLECTION Diamond Electric Zig Zag Bangle See pg. 47
WHITE + WARREN Sleeveless Dress 411WAW0100 - $185 Grey Heather
LOEFFLER RANDALL Logan Sneaker See pg. 65
LOEFFLER RANDALL Livi Sandal 480LOE0143 - $195 Black
OAKHALL.COM
53
JOIE Jaunita Bomber 418JOI0100 - $398 Caviar
ATM V-Neck Tee 438ATM0100 - $85 Black
AG JEANS Farrah Skinny Ankle 430ADG0106 - $198 Interim Destroyed
54
OAKHALL.COM
RAG & BONE Alma Top 435RAG0100 - $325 Black
ALICE + OLIVIA Amaris HW Faux Leather Lace Short 432ALO0100 - $295 Cream
EF COLLECTION Diamond Disc Stud Earrings 460EFC0138 - $895 Rose Gold Multi-Bezel Diamond Mini Crescent Necklace 460EFC0101 - $935 Yellow Gold Diamond X Ring 460EFC0127 - $850 Rose Gold Diamond Double Bangle 460EFC0115 - $2,455 Yellow Gold
OAKHALL.COM
55
JOIE Maha 480JOI0139 - $298 Whiskey
LOEFFLER RANDALL Finley 480LOE0139 - $350 Black
JOIE Fadey Sandal 480JOI0138 - $248 Cuoio
56
OAKHALL.COM
EVER ALICE Fallon Necklace 460HBD0103 - $174
EF COLLECTION Diamond Disc Stud Earrings 460EFC0138 - $895 Rose Gold
CINQ A SEPT Yvonne Hankercheif Top 435CQS0100 - $295 Ivory
JOIE Dewey Woven Sneaker 480JOI0136 - $298 Powder
AG JEANS Prima 430ADG0105 - $178 Sulfur Silver Sage
LOEFFLER RANDALL Pom Pom Drawstring Tote 464LOE0107 - $450 Natural/Silver
OAKHALL.COM
57
REBECCA MINKOFF Sandy Sandal See pg. 57
LOEFFLER RANDALL Livi Sandal See pg. 47
REBECCA MINKOFF Emma Sandal 480RMS0108 - $110 Black Tribal Woven
58
OAKHALL.COM
LOEFFLER RANDALL Logan Sneaker 480LOE0142 - $325 Ivory Tab Clutch 464LOE0108 - $275 Ivory
OAKHALL.COM
59
LOEFFLER RANDALL Tassel Pouch 464LOE0109 - $175 Natural Tassel Pouch 464LOE0112 - $175 Black Stripe Zip Pouchette 464LOE0111 - $250 Black/Multi Mini Hobo 464LOE0110 - $425 Natural
60
OAKHALL.COM
KREWE DU OPTIC Sunglasses $175 - $315
OAKHALL.COM
61
SANCTUARY
Romy Dress 458SCY0100 - $129 Black Petals
62
OAKHALL.COM
SANCTUARY
Chantel Top 451SCY0100 - $89 Day Dream
AG JEANS
Prima 430ADG0105 - $178 Sulfur Silver Sage
OAKHALL.COM
63
wine
SO YOU WANT TO BE A
SOMMELIER?
There’s more to it than drinking great wines… BY LESLEY RUBENSTEIN at New Orleans’ iconic Commander’s Palace, owned by the Brennan family. “We have an extensive wine program,” Davis says. “Everyone can find something familiar here, but the real joy is to take guests on a journey that’s a little outside their comfort zone.” The wine cellar complements the restaurant’s “haute Creole” cuisine and reflects Davis’ passion for rare and underrepresented wine, history and food. Wine enthusiasts have taken notice: for the last five years, Commander’s has been a recipient of The Wine Spectator Grand Award, widely perceived as the most prestigious recognition in the world of wine. In 2016, Commander’s was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for the best wine program in America; The Daily Meal named its wine list the best in the U.S. “Wine and food go hand in hand,” is Davis’ mantra. “Wine is very much part of the meal in flavor and texture.” Commander’s has raised the staff’s level of wine knowledge by making the Court of Master Sommeliers Program mandatory for employees. Under Davis’ direction, 40 servers, plus managers, bartenders, kitchen staff, chefs and owners, passed the Introductory Course and Examination, the first level of the program. Twelve Certified Sommeliers, having attained the second level, walk the
t starts with a passion for wine, a love of learning and an ability to retain lots of details about grapes, geography, terroir, etc. It ultimately becomes a journey of research, deductive tastings, pairings, pourings and intense exams to finally become certified. Master Sommelier Dan Davis took his first sip of alcohol in college and tried his first taste of wine at the encouragement of a friend at a local tavern. Today, he serves as the director of wine and spirits
Above, the wine room at Commander’s Palace. Below left, Master Sommelier Dan Davis.
64
restaurant’s floors. Says Davis, “Education is the key to everything: it fosters a passion that the sommeliers bring to the customers. We’ve created a genuine wine culture.” Davis says the training is critical to a restaurant’s success. “Servers need to know the quality of the wine, and why it works in a specific context. They need to be able to pronounce vocabulary and feel comfortable talking about wine in a professional—but approachable and friendly—manner.” The Introductory Class is a two-day course led by Master Sommeliers that culminates in an extensive exam. It’s allencompassing, covering everything important to know about wine. Students also practice blind tastings and serving, although these skills are not tested at this level. “When I see my staff move from ‘Oh, I get to drink wine’ to ‘Oh, I get to sell this wine and provide an experience for the customer,’ I know the program has worked.” The Certified Examination, the second level, requires students to engage in self-directed studies followed by a three-part exam that tests theory, tasting and service. “You walk into the room to find two glasses of wine: one red and one white. You have 25 minutes to taste the wines and tell the Master Sommelier what they are. Then you take an exam that is fairly grueling, much harder than level one.” During the service portion of the exam, each candidate waits on a
Master Sommelier as a guest in an imaginary restaurant with an imaginary wine list. He or she can order any type of wine, and the candidate must know all about it. Candidates must also suggest wines for the guest’s hypothetical food order, conduct a mock service of a bottle of wine or Champagne, and serve an after-dinner drink. “Being certified is a very real credential with value. Basically, the Court of Master Sommeliers is saying that if they were running a restaurant, they’d hire you as a sommelier.” To take the Advanced Course, candidates must apply. They need a minimum of five years in the industry and must be accepted into the program, which provides a glimpse of what to expect from the third exam and, if invited, the fourth level: The Master Sommelier Diploma Exam. The process is difficult, and candidates spend years of grueling hours in preparation; only a small percentage eventually pass. Currently, there are only 125 men and 24 women in the U.S. who can call themselves Master Sommeliers. The unique opportunities, however, make all the hard work worthwhile. “A highlight for me was being with seventh- or eighthgeneration winemakers in Burgundy and having them pull a 1917 bottle out of a cave, where their great-grandfather had hidden it from the Nazis. They popped it open, and we drank it, with much joy. It doesn’t get better than that.”
CURRENTLY, THERE ARE ONLY 125 MEN AND 24 WOMEN IN THE U.S. WHO CAN CALL THEMSELVES MASTER SOMMELIERS.
66
6.30PM — DUMBO, BROOKLYN
2.00PM — CHELSEA, NYC
4.30PM — TRIBECA, NYC
A DAY WITH CORY BOND IN NEW YORK CITY
OVER-THE-TOP
EATS
In the name of total satiation, we traveled the world to dine under spectacular circumstances. BY SHIRA LEVINE 70
HOTEL DE GLACE IMAGE © DANY VACHON.
food
Climatic Cuisine There’s roughly a three-month window during which you can experience Quebec’s Hôtel de Glace (right), where you’ll quickly learn how chill feasting within an ice castle can be. Critical resources: hearty grub, puffy coats and a generator. Pop-up icy dining with an Arctic atmosphere is certainly a northern thing. Kemi, Finland’s Snow Castle, maintains a temp of -5 Celsius while serving local salmon, perch and lamb. Austria’s Kitzbühel Alps is home to Alpeniglu Dorf, an igloo restaurant serving fondues and boasting an open-air snow bar, as well as an ice church.
Epic food is subjective. Sometimes, a culinary adventure awaits domestically, in one’s very own hometown. But sometimes the most tantalizing feasts are those over-the-top experiential ones in far-flung locations. We compiled a list of global dining and imbibing spots that left tasty impressions on the mind—and better still, the palate.
Sea(in)side Fare Who doesn’t love a swim-up bar? The Lagoon Bar at Iceland’s Blue Lagoon (previous page) is restorative twice over courtesy of healing waters and a signature cocktail for a full detox/retox encounter. In Costa Rica, at Tabacón’s Arenal Pool Bar, a ceviche dish served in waist-deep thermal waters doesn't cramp those seeking splashy crater views. The waters are rich in calcium, lithium and silica, and are naturally heated by the Arenal volcano’s magma. Barbados' Crystal Cove had us (rum) punch drunk in love with the waterfall entry to a cave bar where fish from the very waters guests wade in is prepared to order. And Las Vegas' Tropicana Hotel offers noshes to those who swim up to the waterproof blackjack table. But next level al fresco comes in acqua. In Bora Bora’s otherworldly lagoons, Tahitian tour operators curate motu picnics, Polynesian suckling pig feasts set in shallow sandbar’d waters.
worth traveling for. In southeast Wales, she’s Pauline Griffiths, owner of the unsuspecting Art Shop & Chapel. Located in Abergavenny, the café with courtyard garden is tucked below an old chapel and behind a market hall. What makes Griffiths like Waters are the ingredients: beetroot, leeks, curly kale and pheasant. Favorites? Grilled cheese with hawthorn berry ketchup, turmeric
golden mylk and oat milk lattes. Back across the pond, Woodberry Kitchen (above left) tantalizes in Baltimore. Chef Spike Gjerde is Charm City’s midAtlantic sourcing Alice Waters. The slowcooked turkey potpie with rutabaga cream and kohlrabi, rabbit dirty rice with buttermilk fried saddle, and koshihikari rice and snake oil are swoonworthy. Foodies at Anguilla’s CuisinArt
Resort should expect nothing less than a hydroponic farm-totable experience given, well, the gigantic onsite hydroponic garden (above right). Chef Jasper Schneider’s veggies nourish the menus of five foodspots at the resort, and the Caribbean Sea’s bounty of finned foods round out the fresh and local dishes: lionfish, snapper and lobster, oh my!
IMAGE CREDITS
Luxe Local Feasting
O
utside of California, there’s an “Alice Waters of” in a few special places. Indeed there’s but one Chez Panisse, but the finest and freshest seasonal ingredients culled by successors are a gourmet challenge
71
INSIDER PICKS
The best places to eat, drink, party (and recover) in this world fashion capital. BY MARIO BISIO When I’m in Milan twice a year on buying trips, I have a few favorite restaurants. For lunch, I love Bagutta. Known as “the trattoria of trattorias,” it’s a fun place with colorful art and wonderful food. I usually order a salad and a pasta. My favorite is the simplest: pasta pomodoro that’s out of this world. Another good lunch option: the cantina in the Kiton Palazzo, the Milan headquarters for this esteemed clothing company. Their mozzarella arrives fresh every day by train from Naples. You cannot find anything more delicious than caprese salad with the best mozzarella, the freshest tomatoes, the purest olive oil… While it’s open only to industry insiders, I invite our customers to join us anytime! For dinner, I love Da Ilia. I go for their incredible risotto, their perfect veal Milanese, their special ensalata tropical and any of their homemade pastas. For fish, I choose La Risacca 6. Both the
sip and stare as the bestdressed people in the world pass by. As for shopping, you can find fabulous inspiration in the Corso Como neighborhood. I suggest you take notes in Milan but save the actual purchasing for when you get back home, just in case you need to make a return! Finally, to lift your spirits, be sure to visit the Duomo. Go in the daytime when there’s sunlight and absorb the immense power of this magnificent structure. Its majesty and spirituality are truly life-affirming.
raw fish and the cooked dishes are simply prepared from the freshest seafood in Milan! I also can’t resist their spaghetti vongole—molto buono! Of course, one must make time for cocktails. Be sure to check out the bar at the Diana Majestic Hotel. It’s behind the curtains, and super cool. For amazing views to go with your cocktails and tapas, try the Radio Rooftop: it’s the best place to contemplate Milan’s skyline and take in the energy of the city. My favorite hotel is the Principe di Savoia: it’s an old hotel with an amazing history that’s been the place to stay for cosmopolitan society since the 1920s. There’s also a fabulous workout facility on the rooftop level. It’s not inexpensive, but I’ve been going there for so long that it feels like home. Of course the main activity in Milan is fashion, and the best way to absorb it is over a cappuccino or an aperitivo. Just sit,
72
FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK/ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG, LA RICASSA 6, LA RICASSA 6, SHERATON DIANA MAJESTIC, RISTORANTE DA ILIA, SHUTTERSTOCK/MURATART
destinations
Milan:
designers
INSPIRED DESIGN WE ASKED OUR MOST FASHIONABLE FRIENDS ABOUT THE IMPACT OF ART ON THEIR CREATIVE PROCESSES.
ARNOLD BRANT SILVERSTONE, HICKEY FREEMAN & SAMUELSOHN I came across this photograph of rock formation called The Painted Desert, a visually wondrous place in the Badlands of Arizona. The band of colors struck me as ethereal. It stayed with me for days and I ultimately designed a
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
whole collection for Hickey Freeman spring/summer 2017 inspired by it with layers
MIKE FAHERTY, FAHERTY
of dusty rose, tan and putty.
From an early age I was interested in art and found myself practicing it
The arid essence of
frequently. I was lucky enough to grow up near New York City, so I had
the desert image natural-
access to some of the world's greatest museums. Early on I was drawn to
ly led to crafting a looser
more classical art styles like Impressionism, but through my education I
silhouette, which is a
was exposed to more eras of art and I found myself most excited about the
pendulum swing from
Abstract Expressionistic works of Gerhard Richter. His beautiful use of
the previous season. We cut the interior canvas of our jackets on the bias for
color inspires me to this day.
a fashionable drape. We hand-tailored incredibly light canvases and interlin-
When I started following Richter's artworks, it became clear to me that I
ings for feather-light construction combined with summer’s most exotic fab-
was mostly drawn to his
rications. Silk runs throughout the collection to add quiet strength to tissue-
use of color combinations.
fine fabric and to add a whisper of luminosity.
As I made my way into the fashion world, I fell in love with designing textiles
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
and creating my own color combinations in
I have a passion for literature as an art form and really value reading. My favorite and most-read book is Mediations by Marcus Aurelius. I have drawn many life lessons from his words and messages from the stories he writes. I discovered the book early on in my career and it has guided me in my life since. I instantly connected with its messages and the writings have become close treasures. I have read this book numerous times and continually take away something new each time I read its passages. The foundation of the brand and the collection begins with the philosophies and ideologies that I believe in, many of which I discovered through the teachings of Marcus Aurelius. Just as the great philosophers value legacy, humanity and living a full life, these principles are carried with us as we design the collection each season.
prints and plaids, which are found throughout my collections at Faherty. You have to walk a fine line when creating textiles and prints that stand out so that they are still easy to wear with the rest of your wardrobe. When you walk into a museum or gallery and Richter is on the wall, you are immediately drawn to his use of color. But as you get closer, there is an easiness to the color combinations that makes them seem less daunting. That's always my intention when designing our textiles: at first you're drawn to them from across the store, but as you approach them, they become more inviting to wear.
74
BOB CORLISS, ROBERT TALBOTT In my mind the most thoughtful and inspirational painting is Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, part of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The two hands coming together is such a powerful image and it talks about anything being possible. It’s motivational as well as beautiful. But to tell you the truth, our surroundings are our biggest inspiration. We live in a really special location—The Monterey Peninsula—and Carmel in particular is one of the most spectacular places on the planet. Mountains, valleys, oceans in beautiful colors; we call it God’s canvas. The weather patterns are very dynamic, but it never gets extremely hot or cold. We have different people from all over the world visiting at all times. Those factors all influence the colors and styles that make up our collections. The design process is a collaborative journey between our creative director Mark Calder and his very talented team. We started as a neckwear company and have an archive that houses every design dating back to 1950, also a source of endless inspiration for us.
SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON If I had to choose one work of art that really blew my mind I would have to say La Divina Commedia by Dante, and Botticelli's depiction of it in La Carte de l'Enfer. I really didn't know who Dante was or what La Divina Commedia was when I picked it up at 18 years old. It was an Italian version that I bought in London and I could hardly understand anything, but I tried my best. Then I read it through in English online and it was more an experience than just a book. Hard to put words on it. I would not say that a specific piece of art has inspired me or my work though. I always walk around with my eyes open. Having to constantly come up with new ideas and concepts to develop
GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA
into mood boards for our brands means that I can’t
My favorite works are the Napoli landscapes of Giacinto Gigante. Napoli is at the heart
get stuck too long in one idea.
of everything we do at Isaia. These references are seen in the way we create each piece
I wish I could say that Botticelli shines through
of clothing: Neapolitan tradition mixed with a contemporary point of view. What I also
my collections, but I can't (LOL). However, I always
like about this painter is that he was introduced to his craft by his father, just like I was
do my best and push myself so that whatever we set
introduced to sartorial tailoring by my father, Enrico Sr.
our minds on doing, we do it properly and put our
The colors in his pieces struck me first. They have a very dreamlike effect, but com-
hearts into it. In an ideal world I could spend one
bine different styles and techniques. I also like that he was a little bit of a rebel amongst
year on every collection. The hardest thing working
the Academy of Fine Arts in Napoli. This makes him very interesting as he did not try
in fashion is that it is so cyclic and with this constant
to conform his style too much.
need of news, you always feel that there is never
Just like Gigante we don't try to conform to trends. We like to create new ideas. We
enough time. But that's just how it is. Perhaps one
stay true to our DNA and don't change everything based on what the industry tells us.
day consumption will have to slow down and the
We observe what is happening around us, but remain true to who we are. Also, the
world will only focus on producing really well-made
depictions of Napoli that Gigante created are seen in each of our inspirations for the
stuff that's built to last for a decade. I'm proud that at
season. Napoli is always at the heart. We play with color the way a painter does. It’s just
Eton our goods last for a very long time.
a different art medium.
75
end page
WHY CLOTHES MATTER Musings on the art of dressing. BY JARROD WEBER
n my life, clothing has always been a family affair. My earliest memories of fashion date back to my mom encouraging me to select my own outfits when I was six years old. I didn’t realize it then, but this was the beginning of my addiction to clothing. Or more accurately, to the importance of wearing the right clothes. Even at that young age, matching items in my limited wardrobe felt like a huge responsibility. Although I tried to get my mom to help—“Mommy, which sneakers go with this sweatsuit?”—her response was always, “Which do you like?” Years later, when I was in law school, Weber, right, with a female friend was praising my fashion his dad, a fashion executive. sensibility to a group of students. One of the students remembered me from high school as “the guy who would tuck his flannel shirts into his sweatpants!” My father is a successful fashion industry exec who has headed big companies like PVH and LVMH. One of his maxims is that how you package yourself is as important as how you package your products. How you dress is one component of this; how you speak, how you treat people and how you think are other factors relevant to success, in business and in life. But clearly, your style says a lot about who you are. Your ability to put yourself together tells a story. Are you neat or sloppy? Modern or traditional? Creative or conformist? All these cues send a signal. Clothes tell your story before you even open your mouth. Is this fair? Nope, but it’s reality. Or as my father would say, “Fair is for kids.” I, for one, believe in suits. I believe in dressing up, in looking the part. I practiced law for almost nine years at a firm whose dress code
76
was “business casual unless seeing clients.” Unfortunately, few guys have a real handle on business casual, and it was embarrassing how some of these educated lawyers would come to work. My father always taught me that there’s no substitute for good taste. I have learned that in a business environment, it pays to always look your best. These are not your friends, they are associates and, like it or not, you’re competing. The senior-most people at the firm set the example, and they always looked professional, even on days with no client contact. Bottom line, it never hurts to look your best at all times. And I believe that most men look their best—most professional, most in control— when wearing a suit. Think of a general in the military, or a pilot: the uniform paints a picture of competence and strength. In the military there are precise rules for how to dress: not a single button can be out of place or a lapel creased. These rules are there for a reason: to create an image of order and respect. I’ve recently given up law for a career in fashion, where my style consciousness serves me well. Although creative casual is acceptable, you’ll always find me wearing a suit, and almost always with a tie. Ties are no longer mandatory these days, even in fine restaurants, but they’re a great way to complete an outfit and add a note of distinction and personality. I sometimes wonder whether, in my designer suits and ties, some people might consider my style a bit too perfect, too contrived, too planned out when in fact, I’m just a guy who appreciates nice clothes. Be that as it may, let’s all take the time to appreciate the person inside the clothing: the substance behind the style. For that, I have learned, is what truly matters.
OAK HALL FORUM SPRING 2017