Forum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2011
R od e s INSPIRATION: IRELAND STYLE MATTERS CLOSET THERAPY
REFLECTING ON FALL
welcome
‘‘
WE SELL THE NICEST CLOTHING IN THE WORLD TO THE NICEST PEOPLE IN TOWN.”
IT’S TRUE. Fall 2011 ushers in another great season of tactile, fun clothing for him and for her. Featured throughout this magazine are the best clothes from the best designers in the world. But what are great clothes without great people! Everyone at Rodes, from talented tailors to our buyers and sales staff, shares the same passion to be the best. Like a hand-crafted garment, every business detail is crucial. So while you enjoy the awesome fashion pages that follow, please remember that we could not provide such exceptional garments and incomparable services if not for our diverse, talented team of professionals. Add it up... Rodes has 750 years of combined experience. We are blessed to be part of such a great team! See you around town... Susan and Howard Vogt
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Passion for Life 15MilMil15 Suit
Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) 1-800-866-3112 www.rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
FEATURES 2 6 42 50 56 72 84
Welcome Letter Happenings Cut from the Same Cloth Profile: A Decade of Agave Profile: Luciano Barbera Heroes: Mucho Inspiration Design: Haute Hospitality
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
Hugh K. Stanton
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
FASHION 19 38 40 52 58 64
What Rules? Essential Style Embellishments Style: Trends for Men Life Is But a Dream Why Style Matters
DEPARTMENTS 46 48 74 76 80 88
Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her World Scene Travel: The Eyes Have It Wheels: Vintage Road Show End Page: Closet Therapy
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2011. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 14, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
RODES HAPPENINGS
Rodes For Him and For Her hosts and participates in many events annually. Featured are just a few of our fabulous trunk shows and fundraisers from the Spring-Derby season.
RODES HAPPENINGS
Rodes hosted the annual Derby Divas fundraiser, which donated $105,000 to the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program. Many thanks to the “Divas,� sponsors and patrons who made this possible!
RODES HAPPENINGS
Rodes’ “Customer Appreciation Day” is held annually to say “thank you” to you, our loyal friends. Mark your calendar for Saturday, December 3, 2011 and join the “real” Santa Claus for kids of all ages.
RODES HAPPENINGS
Rodes hosted the national Fashion Forum apparel group in Louisville and some of the retailers joined us to experience the Kentucky Oaks and Derby. Everyone gained knowledge and had fun as well.
COLORS OF PASSION... Orlanda likes designing with colorful precious and semi-precious stones, each hand selected for their brilliance. This year her passion is Amethyst creating a dazzling and brilliant effect. She crafts her jewelry using the finest of materials. Her jewelry was chosen by the Platinum Guild for the “Red Carpet” at the Golden Globe Awards. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection exclusively at Rodes For Her.
DESIGNED BY
W W W. O R L A N D A O L S E N . C O M
www.natnast.com
what rules
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Photography by Eric Williams Hair & makeup by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa
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St. John
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Armani Collezioni
Georg Roth LA | Z Zegna
Etro
Moschino CheapandChic
STEPPING OUT OF HERSELF
REDValentino
Luciano Barbera
Live with Passion
Play with Style
cut25 | Alexis Bittar
him Robert Graham Donald Pliner
her Robert Graham DL1961
him Montedoro Incotex Eton Ferragamo
her Jocelyn Toby Pomeroy Chistopher Blue
him Scott Barber Agave Wolverine
her Nanette Lepore Seasonal Whispers Tory Burch
her Kate Spade Majorica
him Canali Gravati
Samuelsohn Eton
Inhale style...
Theia by Monique Lhuillier Alexis Bittar Deborah Grivas
Exhale drama...
...fashion! her Michael Gaines Collection Iris
him ISAIA Gravati
Lafayette 148 New York
3 Sisters
Nanette Lepore
Donna Degnan
Cinzia Rocca
St. John
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ASKFORUM Q:
My girlfriend has been buying me scarves but I have no idea how to wear them. Are they in style?
Yes, more than ever! Whether cashmere or wool, bulky hand knits or fine gauge with fringe, bright solids or patterned alpine designs, a scarf is the easiest way to add personality to your look. The trick to wearing them: don’t overthink it! Just wrap your favorite scarf around your neck a few times, or try the European way: fold a long scarf in half, drape it around your neck, and pull the ends through the loop. Voila! Instant panache. And don’t wait for the snowstorms: a beautiful scarf is a great fashion accent, whatever the weather.
Q:
Magazines show bright color pants, yet on the streets, most guys wear jeans or khakis. What’s up with the color?
Bright colors (best in slim five-pocket models) are definitely a new direction for men’s trousers, most popular with contemporary customers and guys with self-confidence. If you dare, give them a try: color is fun, mood-elevating and not all that hard to wear. (Nantucket red has been a staple in New England for decades...) If you’re not so bold, try the new five-pocket models in neutral shades, in non-denim fabrics like brushed twill and corduroy. With more options than ever in casual trousers, there’s no need to be boring—or bored.
While shopping online can be tempting, there are many caveats. First of all, not all designers produce the same quality goods for all accounts. So a designer polo from a flash sale or discount site or outlet store might be a different weight or color than the “same” designer polo in an upscale store. Second, at independent specialty stores like ours, you work with store owners and trained tailors and wardrobe consultants whose reputation depends on making you look terrific. Most also offer free closet makeovers: they’ll come to your home, sort through your closet and update your wardrobe with a new piece or two to bring it all together. In addition, store owners stand behind their product, so you’ll never get stuck with an impulse-purchase-gone-wrong.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF LUCIANO BARBERA
Q:
Why buy clothing in a specialty store when so much is available online?
H i g h l a n d C l e a n e r s. c o m
ASKFORUM Q:
I wear jeans almost everywhere, but wish I had alternatives. Can you recommend some other stylish options? Colored denim is the way to go for fall 2011. Not your typical jeans, the new colored denim adds personality to all kinds of tops and jackets. We love a bright jean (preferably skinny ankle length with heels or boots) worn with a contrasting bright top, or else with neutrals. As for your regular blue denim jeans, slim is still in but so are wide legs and flares. You really need both styles this season.
Q:
I own a few scarves but am not sure how to wear them. Any ideas?
Q:
Are leggings still in style? (I see so many women wear them who shouldn’t...)
Most definitely yes! Leggings are a great way to add a youthful flair to almost any outfit. They make mature women look young and chic, they cover winter-white legs when there’s no time to get a tan, and they’re generally very slimming. Our main caveat: leggings are not pants! Make sure to wear a long enough top so that your derrière is completely covered. If you don’t own the right long tops (and there are plenty of gorgeous ones in our store for fall), you can wear your leggings with a flowy dress or even a pencil skirt and high-heeled wedges. In fact, good-quality leggings make everything you own look just a little more hip. Come into the store and we’ll be happy to show you how.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF LUCIANO BARBERA
Scarves and shawls are bigger than ever for fall 2011, in cashmere, silk and blends. Fold a large square diagonally and drape it around your shoulders. (Keep one in your handbag if you tend to get cold.) Or take a long oblong, fold it in half and put the ends through the loop (very European) or else wrap it a few times around your neck or waist, or even your handbag. Stop by and we’d be happy to demonstrate. And while you’re here, check out our newly arrived scarves in fabulous colors and textures. With a simple top and trousers, the scarf makes the outfit (and makes a perfect gift if you’re unsure of sizes)!
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AUGUST 2012 WILL MARK THE 10-YEAR ANNIVERSARY OF AMERICA’S COOLEST DENIM. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
y mission 10 years ago was to make the best jeans in the world; that’s still our mission today,” asserts Agave founder Jeff Shafer. “We started with eight jeans; last year we did $11 million in sales, a record for us, just in men’s. My wife Lauren (who retired from the business 16 years ago to raise our son Jacob) is back as designer of women’s. We’ve become a true luxury label focused on USA-made quality product.”
How do you compete with bigger brands? I knew the secret of making the best jeans was in the denim. I found the best denims from boutique mills in Japan. I focused on fabric and fit, partnering with a Japanese jeans manufacturer with production and laundry in L.A. that made jeans for Levi’s. They knew how to make a jean authentically and accurately. Agave stands for the highest quality jeans, made authentically in the USA. Our customers know this and appreciate our commitment.
How tough is it to work with your spouse? I wouldn’t be a designer today if it weren’t for Lauren. Two companies ago we started working together: I was the owner and she was doing production. We hit tough times and had to let our designer go, and Lauren encouraged me to do the design myself; she actually taught me how. I found my passion thanks to Lauren and I’ve been trying to get her back to work with me for a long time. Last September, our son Eli started high school and she finally agreed. Here’s why it works: We are equals; we trust each other and don’t compete with one another. We try not to discuss work at home.
A DECADE OF AGAVE We have the same taste level but complementary skills. We share values, integrity and the same commitment to quality.
What’s the next big thing in denim for fall 2011? The news is COLOR in bottoms, not just shades of indigo, black and gray, but brown, olive and camel. The other excitement is alternative weaves (twills, cords, etc.) in five-pocket models, washed down to a beautiful patina.
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Above: Jeff and Lauren Shafer Left: Items from Agave’s men’s and women’s fall collections
style
A patterned sportcoat can be dressed up or down, and a double-breasted camel peacoat satisfies three trends in one.
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The runways of Milan, New York and Paris showcase fashion at its most extravagant. Limited edition wool suits and belts made from the most exotic skins were paraded out to cause a stir—and it worked. Thankfully there’s more to menswear than one-off pieces singularly designed with connoisseurs in mind. This fall, men’s clothing and accessory makers have created some of their most varied and versatile collections to meet the everyday needs of the stylish modern man. Sharp suits and sportcoats in a rich array of autumnal colors and tweedy textures, sporty jackets made of weatherproof materials, big bold knits in solids and multi-hued variations, and even a resurgence of cashmere, corduroy and camel hair are wearable and on-trend. So whether you’re lounging around the house, dashing to the office, going for a weekend road trip, or prepar-
IMAGES COURTESY OF Z ZEGNA AND BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
TRENDS FOR MEN
FALL AND WINTER ARE JUST HEATING UP. BY WILLIAM KISSEL
go to facebook.com/etonofsweden tell us your favorite thing about Rodes and be automatically entered into a drawing for a $500 eton shopping spree.
fine shirt maker since 1928
ing for that big formal affair, this fall’s offerings have you covered.
DUAL-PURPOSE Perfect for the office
Technically speaking... This wool and down jacket offers Thermore insulation and taped seams for waterproof performance.
in classic pinstripes or subtle windowpane patterns, these same jackets come alive at night when paired with casual slacks and jeans, coincidentally the way most real men now define weekend wear. If you want to try something new, check out this year’s crop of double-breasted jackets, or DBs, as they’re known. Nearly every designer from Armani to Zegna is banking on double-breasted suits playing a starring role in men’s wardrobes, this fall and beyond. To that end, double-breasted jackets
SWEET PEAS The pea coat originated in the 18th century, when the durable jackets were used to clothe sailors and other military personnel who found the “pij” material (from the Dutch word pijjekker meaning twilled cloth) used to make them incredibly warm. Modern menswear makers could not have foreseen record cold temperatures across the globe when they developed their own versions of these hearty coats, but rest
employed the time-honored ribbed cloth in everything from jeans, jackets and sport shirts to outerwear, blazers, and even tailored clothing. Pinwale corduroy in a cotton/cashmere blend is Hugo Boss’s top dog this season, while cashmere kingpin Brunello Cucinelli prefers brushed corduroy for his collection of quilted coats.
OUT OF THE DESERT Few items in a man’s wardrobe have ever been more luxurious than a camel top coat. Now that familiar topper—a staple of 1930s and 1940s Hollywood royalty—has been reinterpreted in everything from car coats and high-waisted trousers to sportcoats and even full camel hair (or colored) suits. Designers as diverse as Hermès, Giorgio Armani, Tom Ford and Ermenegildo Zegna offered just a preview of the full camel stampede to come this winter.
>>
THIS SEASON, IT’S HIGH STYLE TO WEAR SOMETHING HIGH TECH. come in many variations, from low four-button models with soft shoulders and very straight lapels to serious, military-inspired high six- and even eight-button, peak lapel jackets with strong shoulders and streamlined waists. Many of these shapes also carry over into outerwear and sportcoats.
assured that the double-breasted toppers are ready to work double duty when necessary.
STRIKE A CORD Corduroy comes in many sizes—from pinwale to extra wide wale—and this season top brands like Belvest, Kiton, Zegna, Loro Piana and Canali have
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Zegna’s imaginative I Jacket with its built-in touch control panel at the cuff, allowing one to interface with his iPod without touching it? Or how about Loro Piana’s innovative Storm System technology, which renders even the most opulent fabrics like superfine wool and cashmere water repellent? Those brilliant ideas have come full circle and spawned a whole generation of high tech, high style garments. Whether it’s a polyester and nylon jacket that actually breathes as the temperature rises, or a top coat designed with touch technology that lets you hide your electronics and control them remotely, this season, it’s high style to wear something high tech.
IIMAGES COURTESY OF ZEGNA SPORT
TECHNO? TECH YES! Remember
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LUCIANO BARBERA
L GIUSEPPE PINO
ITALY’S AMBASSADOR OF STYLE BY WILLIAM KISSEL
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uciano Barbera always wears white for tennis, prefers dress slacks on the driving range, and would never consider putting on a colorful, patterned shirt to attend a dinner party. “Can you imagine someone going to dinner in a fancy collar and checks and stripes?” he once said incredulously. “It’s not possible. It will not match with the situation.” Barbera appreciates the established rules of proper dressing, but the dapper designer’s passion
also extends to the fabrics and fine craftsmanship of his clothing and the factories where they are made, which must be in Italy, of course. This last mandate has proven a bit problematic, because current Italian law allows clothing makers to put ‘Made in Italy’ on their garments even if only one simple element, such as adding buttons or sewing on a label, is done in that country. Like most true Italian designers, he is strongly opposed to regulations that intentionally deceive the consumer, and he has been a pioneer in the efforts to change those laws.
deliberately blur the lines between casual and dress.) Barbera’s suits, while clearly influenced by oldworld English tailoring, are designed in the Milanese manner that stresses softly padded, narrow shoulders and a gently tapered waist. Yet most of his suits and sportcoats are made not in Milan but in southern Italy, by many of the same Neapolitan tailors producing clothing for other world-renowned brands. “They have a saying in Naples: ‘It’s like a second skin.’ This is exactly how a well-made suit should fit,” he says. Unlike other bespoke suit makers who emphasize
Understated and deluxe, like Italian cashmere, is how friends and colleagues describe both Barbera and his label. Opposite page: Luciano Barbera This page: A men’s look from Barbera’s fall 2011 collection
“Italian culture, quality and style should be promoted in the right way and not get jeopardized by other clothing producers outside the country. The customer has the right to know the truth,” he insists. Barbera has good reason to be proud of Italian style and production. Italy is unquestionably the producer of the finest luxury fashion in the world. Barbera’s collection, very much a product of the man himself, is no exception. Understated and deluxe, like Italian cashmere, is how friends and colleagues describe both Barbera and his label. Indeed, admits the designer, “I’ve always been considered the natural ambassador of everything we produce.” This fall, what Barbera has produced is a trilogy of designs inspired by the years 1930, 1940 and 1971—three significant high periods in 20th century fashion. He hopes to entice more 30- and 40-somethings to classic style by creating hybrid products a man can wear in unexpected ways. (To wit, a tech-inspired down vest is faced in super 150s navy chalk stripe suit fabric to
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the hand-make of their garments, Barbera’s clothing reflects a perfect balance between man and machine. “You can have a very strong suit made entirely by hand that is ugly because the person who made it has no style or sense of proportions. So what is the appeal?” asks Barbera. “The key is to have the ability to generate harmony in the garment but to make your suit where they are used to making the best suits.” What makes the Luciano Barbera collection so distinctive is more than just the tailoring. “I really consider the fabric the root of my clothing,” says Barbera, who started out as a textile designer. Not only are his fabrics exclusive to his designs, they are all developed in house at the Lanificio Carlo Barbera mill. Another important attribute of the Barbera line is the attention to detail he lavishes on every object. “It’s important that every single piece in the collection offers something special,” adds the designer, unable to name a favorite design from his label. “It’s like asking a man which is your favorite child; it simply can’t be done,” he says. Among Barbera’s favorite expressions: sprezzatura, the Italian word for detachment, but he says a better way to think of it is quiet confidence or low-key style. “The most forceful statement is understatement,” he says. “It is the philosophy behind everything I do.”
life is but a
Fall 2011 has us dreaming about texture... lush knits, comfy cashmeres, velvety cords. So many soft ways to stay warm this fall...
PHOTOGRAPHY: Sergio
Kurhajek |
STYLING:
Wendy McNett |
HAIR & MAKEUP:
Claire Bailey
DREAM A LITTLE DREAM OF...
STYLE MATTERS WHY
Making a good impression has never been more important. Nor has it ever been easier! Studies show that well-dressed men get higher paying jobs, enjoy better social status and are more attractive to the opposite sex.
Here are some simple tips on how to spruce up your look, because yes, style matters!
simple updates for all your modes...
1. Dressy Casual
2. Sartorial
BUILDING A GREAT WARDROBE IS SIMPLER THAN YOU THINK.
3. Sporty Casual
WITH A FEW NEW BASICS, A WONDERFUL FOUNDATION (AND BETTER FIRST IMPRESSIONS) CAN BE BUILT.
Dressy Casual
THE ESSENTIAL
SPORTCOAT THE MVP OF DRESSY CASUAL
No single item is more effective in transforming a man’s wardrobe than the sportcoat. It makes a man look “dressed,” while enhancing and concealing all the right body parts...
Plaid Classic A great neutral plaid adds instant style to jeans and moves gracefully from office to dinner.
Color Statement A bolder plaid in rich fall colors adds excitement to solid basics and layers well with sweaters.
Unconstructed A soft, unlined jacket is an indispensible basic this season. It looks casually elegant and ďŹ ts like a second skin!
Collegiate Corduroy Toasty warm and versatile, corduroy has come back with a vengeance.
Soft Cashmere Unconstructed and elegant, it works with dress pants, jeans and everything in between.
Sartorial
FIT (NEW)
The New Slimmer Silhouette is here to stay
From a first interview to the corner office, one properly fitting neutral suit in a transitional fabric is an essential basic for the welldressed man.
The Intellectual Add a sweater to a windowpane wool suit for a super smart look.
The Young Turk A well-cut dark suit can take you everywhere... and a great wool tie is an easy way to add some personality.
The Player A fun shirt (without a tie) with an open suit jacket is a refreshing upgrade to jeans.
which SUITS you?
The Statesman Herringbone in warm fall tones plus a buttoned vest spells conďŹ dence.
The Mogul Navy pinstripe suit, blue shirt, red tie, slim cut... need we say more?
Sporting Event With Client A quilted, ďŹ tted, double-breasted jacket is as warm as it is ďŹ&#x201A;attering.
Weekend Outing Cold, blustery days can be faced in style with an elegant update to the classic parka.
Sporty Casual
RELAXED
STYLE Soccer Sidelines Throw a great scarf over a versatile pullover and be the best looking dad on the ďŹ eld.
Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the weekend, or you just want it to feel that way.
Country Drive Go antiquing and lunching in style in a chocolate suede driving jacket, also perfect for everyday.
heroes
MUCHO INSPIRATION
TRAINER KATHY RITVO REMINDS US TO FOLLOW OUR DREAMS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN When Mucho Macho Man came in third at this year’s Kentucky Derby, it was a triumph in more ways than one. In the 137-year history of the race, Kathy Ritvo was only the 14th female trainer in the Run for the Roses. What’s more, she’d been
diagnosed in 2001 with a degenerative heart disease, was in and out of hospitals for the next seven years, and finally received a donor heart in 2008 when doctors said she had about a week left to live. Here, in an exclusive interview, Ritvo shares her philosophy of horse training, of Derby fashion, and of life.
How did you first get involved in training horses? I grew up in a horse-racing family. I have two brothers: one’s a trainer
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and one’s a jockey. I’ve always loved horses: I got my trainer’s license on my 18th birthday and I’ve been doing it for 23 years! I had another brother who was a jockey who died (while waiting for a transplant) from the same heart condition I had. So one of the best parts of my life today is being a spokesperson for organ donation.
How are you feeling? I feel super! Really good. I’ve learned to take life one day at a time. Nothing really bothers me anymore; I take everything with a grain of salt. When my kids (ages 17 and 18) drive me crazy, I smile: I’m just glad I’m around to be driven crazy. I live a miracle every day,
running. So for him to be able to accomplish what he has, to come in third at the Derby and run the Triple Crown, is pretty amazing!
What does he eat? Does he get any injections? We’re cooking for him right now: oats and rice bran. He also gets electrolytes and Triple Crown horse feed. He likes to eat late: a small portion in the morning and a lot at 9:00 p.m.; by 9:30 he’s asleep. He gets no injections: he’s a baby and I wouldn’t do that with a baby. He has a chiropractor and an acupuncturist but never injections. That’s why he could run the Triple Crown: we never abused his body.
Do you have any rituals
done. It was so much fun!
What’s your personal style? I don’t know how to describe it and you’d never guess it from looking at me at the moment, but when I leave the barn, I actually look human! I love to shop in boutiques as opposed to big department stores. I love shoes (Stuart Weitzman) and handbags (Burberry). Actually, a lot of my favorite things were bought for me by my husband! (He’s the VP of Racing at Gulfstream Park in Florida; when I met him, I was a trainer and he was a jockey…)
If you weren’t a trainer, what might you be doing? More charity work for sure. After
OF COURSE I DRESS UP FOR DERBY! I GOT MY DRESS (A BEAUTIFUL FLORAL PRINT) AND SHOES AND HAT AT RODES. IT WAS A GREAT HAT: BLACK WITH A PURPLE BOW ON ONE SIDE…” which has made me wiser.
before a big race?
What does it take to be a great trainer?
I go to sleep early the night before. My staff is here; I have total confidence in them. As for superstitions: 13 is a lucky number for me. My birthday is the 13th, I got my new heart on the 13th, and Macho’s number was 13 in the Derby.
Patience. You have to treat each horse as an individual.
Tell us a little about Mucho Macho Man. He’s seriously macho: just look at him! He’s an athlete; he has long legs, like a basketball player. (And he’s a June foal so he’s young: he’ll only get bigger and better…) He’s a little silly: when photographers want to take pictures of him, he’ll stop and pose. And he’s got an ego: he knows how good he is. Most important, he’s relaxed. He doesn’t waste energy and loves to train. You know, when he was born (about the same time I was waiting for my new heart), they thought he was born dead. But they stroked him and massaged him and he suddenly hopped up and took off
What is it about the Derby that makes it so special? It’s just a totally exhilarating experience! Prior to the race, my kids had been mad at me for being away so much but when they got to this year’s Derby, they were in awe. The purse is double, that’s part of it. And 165,000 people, all dressed up, that also adds to the magic…
So you dress up for Derby? Of course! I got my dress and shoes and hat at Rodes. It was a great hat: black with a purple bow on one side… and I had my hair
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getting my life back, I have a strong desire to help others… When I was in Louisville for Derby, I did a public service commercial for Kentucky Organ Donors (Macho is in it too!) and I got so many phone calls from people waiting for transplants. And I still keep in contact with many of them because the waiting is so tough... Having someone who’s been through it reach out to you is really helpful: I know it was for me.
Sounds like life is good… It is. I love my horses, and my dogs. I love being a trainer. Of course nothing is as important as raising my kids but I think that by working at what I love, I’m teaching them to follow their dreams. When a critical illness happens, it’s a wake-up call. No one is promised tomorrow; be sure to do what you love today.
KAPSALIANA VILLAGE
world scene GREEK REVIVAL
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few steps behind the Kapsaliana Village there’s an ancient olive tree. It stands alone, determinedly rooted into a slight rise. From here, the view stretches across the largest olive grove on Crete, over a lush valley, to the sea. The scene is quiet and stunningly beautiful. Originally home to a thriving olive press worked by monks (the historic Arkadi monastery is nearby), the settlement was gradually abandoned after the press was closed in 1955. Today, under the brilliant tuteledge of architect Myron Toypoyannis, Kapsaliana Village has been rebuilt and restored and named a member of Historic Hotels of Greece. The age-old architecture is combined with modern comforts. Twelve guest houses, hewn from the original dwellings, are set on cobblestone alleys. The olive press is now a museum. The restaurant offers superb traditional Cretan food, and there’s a luxurious swimming pool. But most of all, there’s an atmosphere of tranquility and seclusion, as if time had paused to offer visitors a few moments of complete serenity.
Experience life’s little luxuries. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
COLD COMFORT
LAKE PLACID LODGE
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s cold weather approaches, ‘tis time for winter sports, a cozy new coat and a heart-warming cocktail. After ice skating, cross country skiing or snowshoeing at the Lake Placid Lodge in New York’s Adirondack mountains, guests keep out the chill with the hotel’s winter drink, the Barkeater. Bartender Lori Kudelski, who created the Barkeater, shares the recipe for this snug concoction. Ingredients: 1 oz. vanilla vodka, 1 oz. Frangelico, 1 oz. Amaretto, a splash of New York State maple syrup, and 4 oz. cream. Mix vodka, Amaretto, Frangelico and maple syrup in a shaker, then pour over ice in an old fashioned glass. Top with cream and garnish with a mint leaf. Cheers!
GILT TRIP
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MONEY MUSEUM
long with golf, rock climbing and fly fishing, guests of The Broadmoor Hotel at the foot of the Rockies in Colorado Springs can go for the gold. The sparkling festivities begin in a chauffeured Hummer (gold-flecked handcrafted chocolates and a bottle of Champagne are provided), which brings you to the Money Museum. Here, caterers serve dinner in the Bass Gallery, where over $20 million dollars worth of paper money and rare coins, including the most comprehensive collection of American gold coinage in existence, is stored. Between courses, the curator of the museum joins guests and passes around several million dollars in coins and notes. The Broadmoor’s wealthy revelry culminates at the hotel bar with chocolate sorbet decorated with 18K gold leaf, created by executive restaurant pastry chef Rémy Fünfrock, and director of wine Tim Baldwin opens a bottle of Moët & Chandon, Cuvée Dom Perignon Oenothèque, 1966.
COUNTRY CHIC
JAYNE THOMPSON
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n the Kentucky countryside not far from Lexington, there’s a historic eightroom house. Originally named Bellevue, it was built in 1779 by Colonel John Bowman (the state’s first military governor) for his wife, Elizabeth. Now, it’s the home of Jayne Thompson Antiques, decorated with a lavish collection of English and Italian furniture and accessories. The shop is so popular with antiques aficionados, collectors often fly in (there’s a nearby private airport) to shop. For visitors with an urge to experience a more gracious time, Jayne Thompson will also arrange a dinner. Catered by Debbie Long of Dudley’s Restaurant in Lexington, the meal is prepared from seasonal ingredients and paired with appropriate wines. It’s served either in the home’s stunning dining room filled with antiques, or on the lawn, where the hostess places 18th-century Windsor chairs and a 17th-century oak farm table, set with English Ironstone china.
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mong the many trendy—and usually pricey— goings-on in Miami, there’s one very stylish event that’s amazingly inexpensive. For just $5, residents and visitors, serious yoga practitioners and first timers alike, can join certified instructors for “Beach Yoga at 3rd Street, Miami Beach.” This ultimate South Beach insider happening, which attracts vacationing Broadway stars and fashion editors, among others, has been meeting every day at sunrise and sunset for the past 12 years. Take water and a towel, and spend an hour reaching new horizons.
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DJORDJE ISHERE / CLICKHERE STUDIOS
A STRETCH OF BEACH
travel
When filmmakers want to evoke the formal lush countryside of Georgian Ireland or the mythical Celtic landscape of dappled glades, they train their cameras on Powerscourt Estate, one of the greenest corners of the Emerald Isle. Set on Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doorstep in County Wicklow, the gated lands originally surrounded a 13th-century castle that helped guard the city. In 1731, the lord of Powerscourt upgraded to the iconic Georgian manor that still occupies the high ground, gazing across a rich array of gardens and over a small lake to the hunched backs of the Wicklow Mountains.
Green visions abound in the gardenscapes of the Dublin countryside. By David Lyon
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YOU COULD SPEND DAYS AT POWERSCOURT SAVORING THE IRISH GENIUS FOR LANDSCAPE GARDENING OR WANDERING LIKE MYTHIC KING FERGUS IN THE GENTLE WILDS OF THE WOODLANDS AND MEADOWS OF THE 1,000 ACRE ESTATE. Jack Yeats. The gallery backs onto Merrion Square, one of Dublin’s finest Georgian squares, where rows of elegant townhouses are distinguished by differently colored doors and hand-burnished
brass fixtures. Oscar Wilde lived at 1 Merrion Square from 1855 to 1876, and should you wonder where he wet his whistle, a good bet might be O’Donoghue’s, a pub established in 1792 only a block away. The barkeeps still pull a fine pint of Guinness, and the room is famous for its nightly live music. The Ritz-Carlton has its own pub, McGills, where the Albaquirky Turkeys play a driving version of traditional Irish music. The resort’s gastronomic jewel, though, is its casual fine-dining restaurant, Gordon Ramsay at Powerscourt, the London-based chef’s first Irish venture. Conceived as a farm-tofork venue relying intensely on Irish products, the restaurant provides a literal taste of the countryside in a country about the size of West Virginia. The lamb is raised less than 20 minutes away, the vegetables come from an organic farm a mile down the road. As for the mushrooms, the kitchen staff forages them in the woods and meadows of Powerscourt.
IMAGES BY DAVID LYON; SUITE IMAGE BY VISION PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF RITZ-CARLTON POWERSCOURT
Previous page: The 19th-century Pepperpot Tower was modeled on a peppermill belonging to the seventh Viscount Powerscourt, Mervyn Wingfield. This page, top: A fountain in Walled Garden at Powerscourt Gardens Center: Gordon Ramsay’s County Wicklow lamb with potato galette Bottom: The Mountain View Suite at RitzCarlton Powerscourt
For full immersion in the lifestyle of latter-day Irish gentry, retire to the Ritz-Carlton Powerscourt, where you can nurse a tumbler of Tyrconnell single-malt Irish whiskey on the terrace. The 200room resort opened in 2007 and is just a five-minute saunter from the Powerscourt manor. Its stately Palladian architecture and Georgian-inspired décor are complemented by the sybaritic ESPA spa and invisible (but indispensable) contemporary technology. Concierges can advise guests on the best woodland hikes and runs and provide maps and electronic keys to the hidden, gated parts of the estate. They can also arrange horseback riding through the countryside, golf on either of Powerscourt’s two 18-hole courses, or fly fishing for sea-run trout on the River Dargle. Dublin is only a half hour away, making it possible to combine the rustic pleasures of the Irish countryside with the urban rush of the Irish capital. It’s worth making a pilgrimage to the august neoGothic grounds of Trinity College to see the Book of Kells displayed in the library. Created in the 9th century, this stunning volume of the Gospels is one of the earliest surviving illuminated manuscripts and an Irish national treasure. The Irish also treasure the outsized personalities of their artists. At the National Gallery of Ireland, one section is dedicated to the Yeats clan: portraitist John Butler Yeats and his sons, poet and sometimes painter William Butler Yeats and modern Expressionist master
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wheels
BEAUTIFUL CARS ARE NOT JUST TRANSPORTATION, BUT ROLLING WORKS OF ART.
VINTAGE ROAD SHOW CAUTION: MAY INSPIRE SERIOUS GARAGE ENVY BY DAVID ROSE
It all started early one Saturday, when my best friend showed up at my house driving his uncleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 1959 Austin Healy Sprite. He parked it outside my bedroom window and blasted its air horn, prompting me to vault three feet out of bed. We spent the day driving around Boston in the coolest car I had ever been in, and I promised myself right then that when I was old enough to drive, I would buy a British sports car. The day came shortly after my sixteenth birthday, and nothing was the same again for me. I now have a humble collection of these wonderful cars and
drive them as often as possible. There are many extraordinary automobile museums around the world, but also numerous private collectors whose magnificent cars are worth fortunes. Perhaps they also had friends who introduced them to the world of classic cars. Or it may have simply been the majesty of the machines that inspired them to covet and collect these amazing vehicles. One such man is Richard Myers, a former math teacher turned European car dealer who is now retired and lives in New Jersey and Rhode Island. A collector of vintage cars for over 40 years, his 38 classics
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include some very rare machines. Like me, his first was an MGA that he bought while in college. Back then British sports cars were relatively new to the area where he lived, so he soon learned how to do mechanical repairs on his own. He has always considered these beautiful cars not just transportation, but rolling works of art. After college, he bought and restored a Jaguar, followed by Rolls Royces and Bentleys, which he fixed up and sold for profit. After a while he realized that he no longer wanted to sell the cars he restored, and his classic car collection was born. It was the 1970s, and classic car values were nothing like
The 1953 Allard J2X
FALL 2011 Seasonal Pants, Shirts, Outerwear, Belts & More, in store now!
they are today: he was able to acquire some amazing vehicles, which in today’s market would be untouchable. nd he’s still in the market. “I would love to find a perfect Ferrari Dino and a Porsche 356 Speedster,” Meyers confides. “Both cars would have to be black: I base my color sense on the design of the car and those two cars say ‘black’ to me... I just bought two 550 Marinello Ferraris, and I couldn’t go with the traditional red or yellow people associate with Ferraris; one is silver and the other titanium.” All of Myers’ cars are drivable, and drive them he does. His current collection, which includes an Aston Martin, a 1954 Corvette and a 289 Cobra, is essentially a microcosm of sports car history.
OTHER COVETABLE COLLECTIONS • When Ken Lingenfelter, whose father was a GM executive, was growing up, stylish high performance automobiles were a way of life. He bought his first Corvette in 1977 and has since assembled a magnificent collection of 150 Corvettes and other Detroit muscle cars, as well as select exotics from around the world. • The Simeone Foundation Museum outside of Philadelphia, although now open to the public, began as a private collection assembled by neurosurgeon Dr. Fred Simeone. This collection centers on racing cars from around the world and is considered one of the best in the country. • In summer, cream-of-the-crop classic cars gather at Concours d’Elegance events around the world. In the U.S., Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance is thought to be the best. The Greenwich, CT event is considered the best on the East Coast.
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design
Haute HOSPITALITY
IS IT SELF-EXPRESSION OR NARCISSISM? EITHER WAY, DESIGNER HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS ARE FASHIONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEWEST HOT SPOTS. BY WILLIAM KISSEL In the 1970s fashion designers were satisfied to have their names scrawled on the back pockets of your jeans. Over the ensuing decade, they discovered a way to put their stamp on everything from fragrance, sunglasses and leather goods to furniture and bedding. Now they want you to experience their own lavish lifestyles by enveloping you in their signature luxury hotel suites and posh dining rooms.
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Previous page, clockwise from top left: Bottega Veneta for the St. Regis in Rome; Dolce & Gabbana Gold restaurant in Milan; the bar at Gold Below, left: Cavalli Club, Florence Right: Ralph Lauren’s Ralph’s restaurant, Paris
The trend escalated this past year when nearly a dozen new hotels were autographed by top designers—from Giorgio Armani’s sleek, ambitious Armani Hotel Dubai and Bulgari’s bucolic Balinese retreat, to Missoni’s stylish Scottish hideaway and Christian Lacroix’s French boulangerie-turned-bed and breakfast. It’s not only the newest way to propagate their names: designers insist the evanescent hotel or dining experience acts as a kind of “live-in portfolio” of their work. Giorgio Armani features custommade furniture and decorative objects from his Armani/Casa home collection in his namesake hotels, the second of which is scheduled to open in Milan early next year. “I wanted to see how the collection would look when applied to real spaces,” says the designer, who adds that the idea gives hotel guests an opportunity to sample the furnishings in a living situation before investing in them for their own homes. Recognizable designer fabrics and furnishings also encourage guests to form an emotional connection with the hotel—and the brand. And while hotels offer the opportunity to live like Armani or Versace for days or even weeks,
restaurants can offer the same “lifestyle experience” in a matter of hours. Take Ralph Lauren, whose fashion forays range from the highbrow sartorial chic of London’s Savile Row to the Rocky Mountain highs of Colorado. Inside Ralph’s, located in the designer’s Paris store, Lauren brings his idealized world to life. The chic eatery is infused with his signature BritishAmericana stamp, from the vintage leather seating and equestrian-themed artwork right down to the menu, which includes beef raised on Lauren’s own RRL Ranch. “The story of the menu is like the classic film An American in Paris,” says Lauren. “The food is genuinely American, but set in a mood that is genuinely international.” In a more flashy setting, design duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana imbued their Milanese restaurant Gold with a mix of exotic materials—pink and gray arabesque-patterned marble, high gloss steel, gold leather—that they consider to be architectural equiv-
alents of their clothing. While today’s designers would like you to believe they invented the haute hospitality trend, that honor actually goes to Pierre Cardin, who bought the fashionable French bistro Maxims in 1981 and has subsequently turned it into an international brand. “I suspect if you look hard enough you could find Pierre Cardin’s name on a screwdriver,” jokes American designer Todd Oldham, whose own foray into the hospitality game started in 1999 with the opening of The Hotel and its adjoining Wish restaurant in Miami, and continued this year with the christening of 20 new suites. Oldham is now in negotiations to design a hotel in Chicago. “It’s very smart of developers to find tastemakers from other [creative] areas who can enhance the hotel experience,” says Oldham, who believes fashion designers are naturally more sensitive to aesthetics, form and function than typical hotel designers. “Because we tend to focus on making you look good, we can also make you look good in a room.”
DESIGNER FABRICS AND FURNISHINGS ENCOURAGE GUESTS TO FORM AN EMOTIONAL CONNECTION WITH THE HOTEL—AND THE BRAND.
{Louisvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Finest}
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SOMETIMES, THE ANSWERS TO LIFE’S QUESTIONS AREN’T IN YOUR BRAIN. THEY’RE IN YOUR CLOSET. BY JAMES RARUS
CLOSET THERAPY A former boss, the president of a luxury apparel firm, used to scream at me: “You know what your problem is? You think too much! Just sell!” Today, I work for myself. I play menswear psychologist and at a psychologist’s rate, though I’m not a doctor. Analyze this: Twice yearly, menswear merchants fill their shops with thoughtfully selected apparel, transforming their stores into virtual treasure troves of luxury. A man’s closet should be a similar treasure trove, the clothes he pulls out each morning helping to determine if people will buy into his personality, business acumen, credibility, or whatever he’s selling. I recently worked with a client in his cedar paneled closet. His trousers, dress shirts and blazers hung evenly spaced on cedar hangers. His shoes rested in perfect rows, his belts and ties were arranged meticulously. I thought about this client, a bachelor with a high finance job: trim physique, handsome features, great hair, beautiful clothes. But then a flash: he owned no sweaters! Mother Nature took the time to create this perfect specimen, almost begging to be wrapped in luxurious fabrics, and not one cashmere knit!
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I looked around his spectacular apartment with its expansive views of Central Park and envisioned the women he’d soon date thanks to this newly conceived wardrobe. A breakthrough moment, said my inner Freud. Want your own breakthrough? Think of your favorite store as your closet; then think of your wardrobe as a jazz song with layered textures, colors, tones and dimensions to help showcase your own unique qualities. Soon after shrinking my client’s head with this music metaphor, he became the proud owner of a dozen twoand four-ply cashmere knits and a few merinos in masculine shades both deep and pale. His wardrobe is now balanced with casually elegant cardigans, turtlenecks, V-necks and crews; his tailored clothing pieces now double as sportswear. His love life has improved, too: wearing an outfit of his own creation featuring a knit cardigan, he recently met the woman of his dreams. When people ask me what I do for a living, I often say, “I alter men’s perceptions of their closets so that when they get dressed each day, they’re energized and inspired.” To which they usually respond, “You think too much! But let me ask you a question. Can I wear…?”
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www.canali.it
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