Forum/The Substance of Style/FW 2016/17
ARCHITECTURE OF STYLE
THE INTERSECTION OF FORM & FUNCTION
LOUISVILLE HAPPENINGS WHAT’S IN STORE?
UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS, TRUNK EVENTS AND MORE
Excellence in Made to Measure Tailoring Su Misura offers the privilege of designing a wardrobe that perfectly reflects your individuality and the tailoring excellence of artisan craftsmanship. It guarantees a choice of over 500 exclusive fabrics, including Trofeo, 15MilMil15, High Performance and Elements Trofeo-Cashmere.
CONTENTS
Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNER
Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
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Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
FEATURES 17 18 21 38 40 42
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP
Jim Hines: Selling From the Heart Our People: New Additions Best-Dressed Guy in the Room PT01: The World’s Best Pants Jonathan Simkhai: In His Own Words Baldassari: Italian Dressing
PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO
FASHION 22 24 26 28 30 46 58
What’s New New & Old Friends High-Class Fashion The Jean Scene The Runway Scene Architecture of Style Quality: Hallmarks of Top Tailoring
Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX
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Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY
DEPARTMENTS 4 7 14 34 36 44 60 62 64
Welcome Letter In Step with Our Town Exclusive Events Ask Susan Ask Jim Man of Style: Anthony Whitaker The Fashion Forum Food: Multicultural Cuisine End Page: The Card Game
Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2016. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-8528175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 •
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FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 19, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
welcome
NEW ARRIVALS FOR FALL
Rodes is an apparel store, but we are all about people. Our “family” of employees here at Rodes have dedicated their lives to serving you as part of our extended family. This fall/winter season we would like you to welcome our newest additions to the Rodes family: Donny Hubbard joins Rodes For Him as an assistant buyer and personal stylist. Donny brings a wealth of expertise and fashion presence to our fair city! (See Donny’s insightful article on page 21.) Jillian Clark (Ms. Contemporary), recently returned to Rodes For Her after maternity leave, is assisting with buying contemporary apparel and is heading up our social media, including Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. Megan McCall is now part of the Rodes For Him team of personal stylists. Her energy and infectious attitude make us all better! David Amaya is now at the helm of the men’s tailoring division and his enthusiasm and knowledge are well beyond his years. Please say hello to these new folks the next time you visit! (See their stories on pages 18 and 19.) This is an exciting time at Rodes. The blend of experienced professionals with our fresh new faces has been amazing. They all share a common thread—they love what they do, are passionate about people and love fashion. That makes our team the best! We look forward to seeing you around town! Sue and Howard Vogt
12 YEARS
GILDA’S NIGHT
with our
TOWN
In November, Gilda’s Night at Rodes raised nearly $600,000 for Gilda’s Club Louisville, whose goal is to ensure that no one ever walks a cancer journey alone. Thank you to each person and organization who made this possible!
IN STEP
CEL E BRATING
SAVE THE DATE Gilda’s Night @ Bittners November 11th
IN STEP with our
DERBY DIVAS
TURNS 10!
TOWN
Presented by Thorntons, Inc. and Yum! Brands Foundation, Inc., the annual Derby Divas event was held at Rodes in April. The Divas honored radio personality Lynda Lambert and raised funds for mammograms for underserved women in the community and for the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program.
PHOTOS COURTESY OF CHRIS JOYCE, BILL WINE & RODES
IN STEP with our
TOWN
Derby Divas has raised more than
$1.5 MILLION for breast health programs and initiatives!
SAVE THE DATE 2017 Derby Divas April 20th
The Derby Divas Breast Health Center at Norton Women’s and Kosair Children’s Hospital.
KMAC
IN STEP with our
COUTURE
TOWN
Main Street in downtown Louisville turned into a fashion runway when the Kentucky Museum of Art and Craft hosted its annual KMAC Couture fashion show in April. Models wore pieces deemed “wearable art,” and guests dressed in white to represent the artists’ blank canvases.
SAVE THE DATE 2017 KMAC Couture April 15th
PHOTOS COURTESY OF NERISSA SPARKMAN & RODES
IN STEP with our
TOWN 3 6 YEARS RUNNING
RODES CITY RUN 10K
The Rodes City Run 10K is the second leg of the Louisville Triple Crown of Running. In June, the Triple Crown, presented by Novo Nordisk, donated over $142,000 to the Crusade for Children on behalf of sponsors, volunteers and participants. The three-race series has donated over $1.7 million to the charity since 2002.
SAVE THE DATE The 37th Rodes City Run 10K March 18th
PHOTOS COURTESY OF JONATHAN ROBERTS
SIMPLE · BEAUTIFUL · LIFE
WWW.LOUISVILLESTONEWARE.COM
IN STEP
EVENTS
with our
September 8th Samuelsohn Fall Trunk Show
TOWN
September 27th & 28th Joeffer Caoc “Buy Now” Ready-to-Wear Show October 6th Fundraising Benefit for the National Stem Cell Foundation October 6th & 7th Clara Williams Company Jewelry Show October 6th, 7th & 8th Lourdes Chavez Fall Show October 7th & 8th Ermenegildo Zegna Fall Trunk Show October 13th, 14th & 15th Basler Spring 2017 Trunk Show Escada Spring 2017 Trunk Show October 21st & 22nd St. John Spring 2017 Trunk Show October 29th Eton Shirt Day November 9th & 10th Donna Degnan Spring 2017 Trunk Show Buchanan Kang Spring 2017 Trunk Show November 11th Gilda’s Night @ Bittners November 17th, 18th & 19th Algo Spring 2017 Trunk Show December 3rd Customer Appreciation Day, featuring the ‘real’ Santa Claus! January 10th to 21st Lafayette 148 New York Spring 2017 Trunk Show
VISIT RODES.COM FOR DETAILS! 14
THE KEY TO THE
WINNER’S CIRCLE
BARN DOOR KEY PENDANT DESIGNED BY
WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM
SELLING FROM THE HEART JIM HINES, STAR SALESMAN AT RODES FOR 50 YEARS, BELIEVES IN HARD WORK, ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND EMBRACING CHANGE. There are not many salesmen in this world still excited to come to work after 50 years. James "Jim" Hines was born in Auburn, Kentucky on February 11, 1945. Raised by his grandparents, Annie Lou "Nu" and Wilbur Viers, Jim learned to be successful by first absorbing his grandparents’ strong values and then modeling their work ethic. After graduating from high school in 1963, Jim joined the army and served for three years. He was assigned a position in Stuttgart, Germany as a Troop Movement Specialist. In 1966 he returned home to Louisville in search of a job. His dream was to work for the railroad company like his grandfather. He took the written exam, passed with flying colors and was sent in for a physical; unfortunately his bad back precluded his getting the job. Jim then began to look for other opportunities, and was informed of an opening in the receiving department at Rodes. He interviewed for the position and started working at Rodes on August 10, 1966.
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superstar
Arriving early that morning (at the Starks Building at Fourth and Muhammad Ali—then Walnut Street), Jim found the receiving department in need of some organization, so he went right to work reorganizing. Because of his dedication and strong work ethic, he made a great first impression, especially on Jack Rodes. Jack eventually became Jim's mentor, at first promoting him to organize the stock and observe the sales floor. Despite the unlikelihood of a black man finding work in sales at a high-end clothing store in the 1960s, Jim had a talent that could not be ignored. Jack took a gamble on this young man as it became increasingly apparent that he had the potential to be a great salesman. And was he! During his 50-year tenure at Rodes, Jim has helped start the following initiatives: Customer Appreciation Day, trunk shows (which helped keep Rodes relevant despite new malls popping up in Louisville), ladies' apparel and accessories, and The President's Club (of which Jim was president, organizing meetings and sales training). Because of his expertise in men’s suiting, he was even flown to Chicago to be filmed for some Hart Schaffner & Marx sales training videos! Jim also invested in his own career by studying salesmanship, which he’s always viewed as an art form. To fine-tune his skills over the years, he took "Grow as a Pro" courses at the University of Louisville and business law classes at Sullivan University. When Lawrence Smith announced that Rodes would move from downtown to its current location in 2003, Jim was one of the first to support the move. After 14 years at the new location, he continues to embrace change, acting as an innovator both technologically and stylistically. Jim eventually became Rodes' first Ermenegildo Zegna ambassador, running the new department and pushing forward with their more modern suit silhouettes. According to his fellow sales associates, one of Jim’s greatest attributes (in addition to his humility and his wife Cheri, also a top seller at Rodes for over 30 years) is his attention to detail. From the tissue in the box to the meticulous pressing of the garment, Jim believes that each little detail contributes to making his customers feel special. Not surprisingly, Jim’s client base has grown significantly over the years; he often assists several generations within the same family! All of us at Rodes wish Jim many more years of continued service, and thank him for his energy, empathy and inspiration. Adds Susan Vogt, “It is humbling when I think about how Jim has affected lives for four generations at Rodes. I admire the manner in which he has embraced life. I think that Jim could have been the muse for one of my favorite authors, Dr. Seuss, when he wrote: ‘You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. And will you succeed? Yes, you will indeed! (98¾% guaranteed.)’ Thank you 100% Jim, for sharing your success with us!”
our people
OUR STYLE ADVISERS WILL HELP YOU FIND YOUR PERFECT MIX
NEW ADDITIONS Meet our newest family members. . .
JILLIAN CLARK Personal Stylist Rodes For Her Jillian Clark was born and raised right here in Louisville and grew up loving the fashion industry. She graduated from Assumption High School and attended the University of Louisville, where she met her husband, Moe. They married and pur-
chased their first home in 2014, and had their daughter, Kingsley, in January 2016. Jillian began her career in the ladies’ apparel business when she joined Blink Boutique and worked there as a sales manager. During her tenure, Jillian learned all facets of the retail fashion industry, including buying, selling and marketing. “I was able to explore the many unique dimensions of operating a small boutique and developed a growing appreciation and fascination for contemporary fashion.” Another opportunity developed when Blink Boutique merged with Rodes in March 2015. Jillian joined Rodes For Her as a personal stylist and assists with buying contemporary apparel lines. She also rocks our social media communications.
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MEGAN MCCALL Personal Stylist Rodes For Him Born in Louisville, Megan McCall graduated from Kentucky Country Day, where she played field hockey, in 2009. She currently attends Spalding University in the evenings and is working on her Business Management and Marketing degree.
Megan has always been interested in fashion and received her retail “wings” working at a women’s boutique in South Carolina while attending Furman University. She also spent time in the bridal industry coordinating weddings and working at Sher’s Bridal here in Louisville. As a trainee at Rodes, Megan spent two weeks in New York this past January. This became her most memorable career moment to date: “I visited ‘The Big Apple’ and worked as an intern with designer Maurizio Baldassari! As if this wasn’t exciting enough, we became trapped there during a major blizzard and could not come home for a few more days!” Megan loves traveling, shopping and spending time with her family and friends. She is also engaged to be married, but has yet to set a date.
his career path would be in the industry. After more than two years of recruiting Donny to come to Louisville, Donny closed his stores in Arkansas and made the crosscountry move with his wife, Robyn, and thier two children, Aly and Luke, to be a part of the Rodes family. “During our trip to Florence, Italy last June for Pitti Uomo (one of the biggest clothing shows for menswear globally), Robyn and I got to spend several evenings with Howard and Sue having dinner, going to vendor parties and dining al fresco at the Baldassaris’ home in Tuscany. It was there in Florence, sitting in Piazza della Repubblica, that Howard and Sue convinced me and Robyn that Louisville, Kentucky was the greatest place to live. In return I got to introduce Howard (a guy from Bourbon country) to the traditional Italian cocktail: the Negroni. Although the Negroni and Howard never seemed to be a fit, Louisville and the Hubbards are a match made in… Italy!”
Brentwood, Tennessee. Elise has twin daughters, Rebecca and Elizabeth (age 21), who are currently attending Murray State University. “We love spending time at ANY beach!” she tells us. When asked about her favorite Rodes Story to date, Elise recalled when the concierge at 21c called Rodes For Her on Oaks Day and spoke to Kathy Baker. One of their patrons had come to Louisville for the Derby and all her garments were torn in transit. “I was just amazed that our tailoring staff was able to successfully repair her entire wardrobe and had her ready in time for her Day at the Downs.”
DAVID AMAYA Men’s Tailor
DONNY HUBBARD Assistant Buyer and Personal Stylist Rodes For Him Donny Hubbard comes to Rodes from Arkansas, where he owned and operated the first true men’s luxury store in Northwest Arkansas for 12 years. Donny quickly became known in the region as a style influencer and was recognized as one of the area’s “40 under 40” business leaders. A Southern California native transplanted to Arkansas at the age of 13, six years later Donny found his niche in the men’s clothing business and quickly realized that
ELISE WHITMAN Accounts Payable/ Receivable/HR We welcome Elise Whitman to Rodes’ business office. She graduated from KCD in 1979 and later received her Bachelor’s degree in Business Administration from the University of Louisville. Elise worked in her family’s resource publishing company from 1980 until 2015, when it was acquired by Business and Legal Reports in
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David Amaya and his family came to the U.S. from El Salvador when he was 17 years old. While in California, he frequently visited a neighbor who was a master tailor. David had always been passionate about creating things from fabric, and through his mentor, his love affair with clothing had begun at an early age. David owned and operated his own tailoring business in New York for over 10 years and most recently in Clarksville, Indiana for eight years. His experience and expertise is widely known in the region. We sincerely welcome David, his wife Claudette and daughter Karen to the Rodes family. “I am very delighted and proud to be part of this wonderful family and team of professionals.”
BEST-DRESSED DONNY HUBBARD ON THE IMPORTANCE OF DRESSING WELL. “To be noticed without striving to be noticed, this is what elegance is all about.” —Luciano Barbera
Rodes welcomes Donny Hubbard to Rodes For Him as an assistant buyer and personal stylist.
What a great quote by one of my favorite Italian menswear designers. His point is that you should dress in a way to present yourself as someone who understands the importance of dressing well without trying too hard to be a peacock. We have all heard the expression that “you only have one chance to make a first impression.” Like it or not, the way we present ourselves through our clothing and grooming is the first impression we make on others. My personal philosophy is that it’s always better to be a little overdressed than underdressed. After 21 years in the luxury clothing industry and giving fashion advice to countless men, I am certain that the rule has not failed anyone yet. There is something empowering in being the best-dressed guy in the room. Getting occasional compliments from the fairer sex or even nods of approval from another dapper gentleman goes a long way in the confidence department. It’s not about overdoing anything. It’s about dressing well and being elegant. For me, being elegant is about attention to detail. I am an advocate of buying the very best of what your budget allows. It’s not the dollars you spend that make you look good, but… you can be sure that the better the quality, the better it looks. People notice when it’s better.
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From there, the fit and finish is as important as the styles you choose. As they say, the devil is in the details. Little things like a thoughtfully placed pocket square and working buttonholes on jacket sleeves go a long way for men who are in the know. In this day and age of business casual, it seems like khakis and polo shirts are the norm for most offices, but even that can be done stylishly and elegantly. As clothing has become more and more casual, it has given a man who wants to stand out in a crowd (in a positive way) the ability to set himself apart as someone who cares about how he is perceived both personally and professionally. Over the years I have noticed that the men who are most successful are oftentimes the ones who care the most about their appearance. There are studies upon studies that show the impact of dressing well, how it positively affects the attitudes of the person and those around him. In short, dressing well attracts and keeps attention in a good way. Like my friend Luciano says, “This is what elegance is all about.” To be elegant is about being the guy in any room that people are talking about in a very, very good way. And who doesn’t want to be noticed in a very, VERY good way?
[ ]
What’s
TARRYN SIMONE Tarryn Simone handbags are ART! Hand-stitched, each showpiece expresses its own individuality and strength. They are lightweight, practical and exquisite!
NEW
DISCOVER NEW DESIGNERS IN OUR STORE & NEW COLLECTIONS FROM DESIGNER FAVORITES.
[ ] RIANI The fashion of Riani is spirited to celebrate diversity, to embrace the world. Their collections come off the catwalk emphasizing feminine charm with colorful surprises.
ST. JOHN The ease of the West Coast meets the sophistication of the East Coast. This quintessential knit jacket is both iconic and exotic, ensuring it goes the extra mile in your wardrobe. 22
EMY MACK Emy Mack has paired versatility with classic influence in designing her footwear. What this perfect pair of kitten heals can do for jeans and a tee or a sophisticated dress! Audrey Hepburn had this one right.
ELISA CAVALETTI If you’re in love with life… then you will be in love with Elisa Cavaletti. Inspired by women who dare to put themselves out in the world, your new favorite piece will have a twist all its own.
[ ] LAFAYETTE 148 NY As Lafayette 148 celebrates their 20-year anniversary, they are driving fashion to “What’s next.” Focusing on clean, minimalistic silhouettes that are wrought with design, new edge comes by focusing on sleek, sinuous lines with precious cashmere and gorgeous fur accents.
WHITE + WARREN On the fly? The pace of life only gives a moment to throw and go, and it should be wrapped in the luxury of cashmere. Blending colors and textures creates style with function. 23
New & Old
FRIENDS WE FOUND THE “GO-TO” PIECES
FROM OUR FAVORITE DESIGNERS. BUCHANAN KANG This snake-embossed red leather jacket exudes both happiness and confidence, with a dash of sexy.
CAMBIO
[ ]
In its return to the U.S. market, Cambio has answered the question on great-fitting pants and comfortable jeans! Come on in and pull on a pair!
ELLIOTT LAUREN This black and white zip jacket is the fabulous third piece that completes any outfit. It’s knit, comfortable and adorns the body.
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STUART WEITZMAN Calling all shoe lovers! Think simple polished meets swanky street-chic. We love the luxe look of black on black with a chunky heel that sings “comfort is key.”
DONNA DEGNAN
[ ]
A new navy blazer instantly updates your closet. It is poised and cool walking into a meeting or thrown on with effortless ease over a white tee.
CHELSEA & WALKER One of the most asked-for items here at Rodes are date night blouses, and the focus of this collection is just that. This burnout velvet blouse takes you to the edge of glamour.
[ ] FRYE Whether it’s for holding all for a hectic day or a weekend away, this Casey leather tote gets even better with time.
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#WOWZAHHH
High-Class
FASHION #EXCLUSIVES@RODES
BLESSINGS IN DISGUISE
SHOSHANNA BLACK HALO JONATHAN SIMKHAI
#CLASSICALLYCHIC
#LBDELEVATED
#ELITEENDEAVOR
VINCE
CINQ À SEPT
#UNDIVIDEDEXPRESSION
#SEXYDATENIGHT
MARC CAIN
#LIMITEDVINTAGELV LOEFFLER RANDALL
#EXPRESSIVESTYLE
JOIE #ABSOLUTESOLE
Jillian’s Take On
The
JEAN Scene
Low-rise and cropped. High-waisted and flared. Distressed versus true blue. It seems like denim is having an identity crisis—but that’s what we love about it! Find out what’s trending on the jean scene and the fit that’s best for you!
HUDSON TRUE BLUE + DETAILS FOR DAYS We love the idea of a triedand-true classic blue jean! If you’re not into changing the wash of your day-to-day denim, try modernizing your look by selecting a pair with a fun and unexpected trimming. Whether it’s an unfinished hemline or a zipper at the ankle, it’s all about the ‘deets’!
L’AGENCE FLARED UP Don’t call it a comeback… It’s time to channel your inner flowerchild and break out the good ol’ wide-leg flares! Okay, maybe not literally; but investing in a pair of these throwbackinspired jeans will keep you completely current!
#STREETCHIC
#HIPPIECHICK
Jillian Clark pictured with daughter Kingsley
HUDSON PAIGE HIGH AND MIGHTY LIGHTEN UP The evolution of the The rules of fashion went skinny jean continues! out the window with T. 2016 calls for slightly disSwift’s last (five) relatressed denim with a hightion-ship(s). Sorry Tay er rise. Tuck in a tee and Tay… That whole ‘no add a rockin’ necklace, and white after Labor Day’ you’re ready to go! rule need not apply. Lighten things up by rocking hues of white and ivory all year round!
#WHATSTHESKINNY
#WHITEOUT
JOIE HIGH-FASHION HARDWARE Oversized front pockets and zipper detailing throughout: accentuate your style with some edgy trimmings this season. We are all about the zip cuffs!
#ZIPIT
The
LELA ROSE
RUNWAY Scene ALL FASHION MUST FIRST WALK THE RUWAY.
ESCADA
ARMANI COLLEZIONI
ETRO
Fashion designers draw inspiration from myriad places: the colors of a mountain sunset, the grids on a bridge, the sweeping flow of the branches of a weeping willow. It's the transformation from life's snapshots to the drawing board that will evolve into this season's fashion. Before it hits our stores, this wearable art walks the runway!
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askSUSAN YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED
Q: What’s the hottest item in fall fashion?
Here at Rodes, beautiful blouses are everywhere! This season it’s all about soft, flowy silk and chiffon creating that perfect date night blouse. The “cold shoulder” trend that exploded this summer (blouses cut straight across the chest, leaving the shoulders exposed) con-
head-to-toe. You have a chance to mix edgy with traditional, add a
tinues this season. Other trends include high-low hems that
scarf or a necklace to refresh what you already own, or walk out with a
drape below your jacket, V-necks with detachable or criss-cross
new pair of shoes. Feel the confidence that is unique to you!
ties, bell sleeves and embellishments.
beautiful selection in person, from brands like L’Agence, Chelsea
Q: How can I update my jewelry look?
and Walker, and Lafayette 148 New York.
rings on (almost) every finger. We especially love to layer three or four
Q:
necklaces of varying lengths. We suggest keeping the longest layer the
Wear them loose and flowy with leggings, or tucked in at the front with a great pair of jeans. Come into the store to see our
What are the advantages of shopping at a multi-brand store like Rodes?
It’s all in the mix! Having multiple brands to choose from will lead to a better wardrobe. We edit over 300 clothing lines to
It’s all about layering, from stacking bracelets up your arm to wearing
simplest, with a medallion or charm hanging from the middle layer and something with a bit more weight on top. Play with proportions, metal tones and textures until you find the layered look that speaks to you! At Rodes, you’ll find bold gold necklaces from Freida Rothman,
bring a truly signature look to your closet, from lifestyle clothing
organic materials like stones, horn and mother of pearl from Nest, and
to workwear, whether traditional or casual. We believe the best
colorful chokers from Clara Williams. We’re especially proud to fea-
way to build a well thought-out wardrobe is from a selection of
ture local Louisville jewelry designers Cindy Borders and Summer
many different designers and price points. Combine that variety
Eliason, whose chunky layering pieces are sure to catch your eye.
of product with the expertise of the Rodes sales associates and
This is the perfect way to accessorize the blouse trend I mentioned ear-
you can create combinations for a look that’s all your own from
lier, and can also bring new life to your solid-color dresses.
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askJIM
FALL 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Q:
Can I wear brown shoes with black, navy or gray suits?
Yes! We love various shades of brown and tan with dark suits: it’s perfectly appropriate, and very Italian!
Q:
I have a friend who buys custom suits from a Chinese maker who periodically shows at local hotels. Can this be a reliable source for good clothing? Probably not. Anyone with a tape measure and a few swatches can call himself a custom clothier; the critical issues are the accuracy of the measurements, the quality of the suit (fabric, interlinings, construction) and what recourse you have if you’re not satisfied. The advantages of buying custom clothing from an independent menswear store are many: a vast selection of made-to-measure options from the finest brands; expert in-house tailors for accurate adjustments; and guaranteed top quality. For what’s the point of having a suit that fits if the fabric is inferior, or if the interlinings are glued rather than sewn? (And try tracking them down in Hong Kong when your “custom” suit comes back from the dry cleaner with ripples…) As always: caveat emptor.
Q:
My girlfriend tells me I’m in a “fashion rut,” that my wardrobe is both boring and dated. (I wear mostly khakis and nice button down shirts.) How do I update my look? Personal style is about knowing yourself, your comfort zone and the image you want to project. Here are a few easy suggestions: 1) Throw on a soft sportcoat or cardigan: it adds instant “attitude,” requires no special fashion savvy and gives you pockets to keep stuff. If you dare, try a printed silk square in the pocket of the sportcoat. (No need to fuss with it: our sellers will show you the most simple folds.) 2) Instead of your basic khakis, try fivepocket pants in luxury fabrics with stretch. These are comfortable, fashionable and the fit is amazing. 3) Invest in a great leather belt. 4) Consider a custom shirt. They’re not much more expensive than regular shirts, but they’re a lot sexier. 5) Call us and make an appointment for a closet update; we’ll send over one of our personal shoppers. There’s no pressure to buy, just great ideas to upgrade and update your wardrobe for a fashionable fall/winter ’16.
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l i v e a w e l l- s t y l e d l i f e
profile
A CHAT WITH MARIO STEFANO MARAN, EVP OF PANTALONI TORINO USA. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN t’s been said PT01 makes the world’s best pants; what substantiates this claim? It’s largely about our unique heritage, our tailoring and our technology. Our ongoing research, which is a part of our brand DNA, inspires us to keep innovating. We are famous for breaking the rules and creating unique styles. We offer customers a collection of trousers that reflects the finest Italian tailoring and craftsmanship, as well as special details, amazing fabric options and (most importantly) a perfect fit.
The World’s
BEST PANTS
Please share a little about your history. In 1969 Pierangelo Fassino started manufacturing apparel, a major step for the Fassino family, which had been in the textiles business in Torino for three generations. When Pierangelo’s son Edoardo joined the company in the 1990s, the business went decidedly upscale. I was brought in in 2006 to direct the U.S. business, which currently represents 60 percent of global sales. We now have four flagship showrooms: Milan, Tokyo, Munich and NYC.
Tell us about the fall ’16 collection. It combines the historic DNA of American denim with Italian style and design. There are music influences and several different fits. Among the most directional is a carrot fit, which has some fullness on top narrowing to a slimmer leg. But we offer numerous fit options, from classic to contemporary, in styles from formal and elegant to casual and sporty.
What’s next for PT01? The recent listing on the Milan Stock Exchange represents a milestone for our company, allowing us to grow. Current goals include expanding our women’s collection, strengthening our presence in international markets, and investing in new product segments.
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mom would bring all of her friends over to shop and buy my clothes. She still does!
How has life changed since you received the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award last year? It was an amazing experience and a dream come true for me. It provided the Jonathan Simkhai brand with fantastic exposure, as well as strong support from the fashion industry as a whole. Each season I try to move the brand forward and push myself creatively while at the same time remaining true to the brand’s DNA—creating beautiful clothing of impeccable quality and craftsmanship. It is a very special feeling to be recognized for something that I love to do.
In His
Let’s talk about your beautiful clothing! What can we expect from your fall 2016 collection? I am always inspired by architecture. The structures
OWN WORDS WE CAUGHT UP WITH JONATHAN SIMKHAI TO TALK INSPIRATION, ACCOLADES AND WHAT’S NEXT FROM HIS EPONYMOUS CLOTHING LINE.
Why did you decide to end your formal education and focus instead on gaining real-world experience? I briefly attended design school at both Parsons and FIT before deciding to launch my own brand; so while I do have some formal design training, I have always learned best by doing. I come from a family of entrepreneurs, who have instilled that spirit in me. My early retail experience provided me with invaluable insight into the bigger picture by giving me the opportunity to work directly with customers and learn what women really desired from their clothing. When I was launching the Jonathan Simkhai brand years later [in 2010], I was able to make informed decisions based on what I had learned as a womenswear buyer. Having formal design training is very helpful, of course, but it’s not the only path. Everyone should do what feels right for them.
Who are some of your mentors? I feel incredibly lucky to say that I have a tremendous support system. Michael Kors became my mentor through the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Having the opportunity to consult with an overwhelmingly successful and influential fashion designer is a true blessing. In life, my parents have always been such pillars of support. When I first launched the brand, my
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that Santiago Calatrava creates are feats of both design and construction. Not only that, Calatrava thinks about and addresses every last detail, from the amount of natural light to the overall aesthetics of his structures. I have been familiar with his work for many years; but for this collection, I was particularly inspired by his bridges, because they are a balance of sleekness and strength. Each custom lace fabric was inspired by different design elements from these structures.
Tell us about the process of designing your own fabrics. Why is this so important to you? The fabrics are crucial to each collection. All are customized, whether it’s a custom color or completely original artwork. We always start with a concept, and then we gather a few basic motifs to expand on so that everything in the collection is of the same continuous theme. We tend to lean toward novelty fabrics and love finding new techniques to experiment with. Lace fabrics are so important to me because of the wide range of creative possibilities they offer—from creating different textures to cutting incredibly intricate designs. My family heritage plays a big part of it, as well. My grandfather owned a lace and embroidery factory in Iran in the 1970s, so I have always been surrounded by and exposed to this part of the fashion industry.
How do you want a woman to feel in your designs? I want every woman to feel like her best and most beautiful self. Confidence is key.
profile
Italian DRESSING
MILANESE FAMILY BUSINESS BALDASSARI CREATES CLOTHING THAT SUITS BOTH ITS HOMELAND AND THE WORLD. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON he Baldassari family doesn’t need to look far to find inspiration for its beautiful line of clothing; in fact, a glance out of the office windows in the fashionable Brera section of Milan, Italy (the city’s equivalent of SoHo in New York) usually does the trick. “We doublecheck our collection every day through the people in our own neighborhood,” says Renato Baldassari, who now runs the business (along with his brother Alberto) that was founded over 30 years ago by his father, Maurizio. “People in the street come up to us and ask about a particular fabric. The idea of bringing Milan and the Milanese look to our clients always stays with us. What we try to do is create a wardrobe for all occasions, whether it’s having an aperitivo in a café in Brera or going to the opening night at La Scala.” The commitment to Italy is hardly surprising. Maurizio Baldassari, who remains active in the business, has been a member of Italy’s fashion community his whole life. In fact, early in his career, he worked as the head of fashion purchasing in one of Milan’s most famous department stores—alongside future designer Giorgio Armani. The company sources
its fabric in the famed Biella region and uses Milanese weaving to accomplish its look. While Baldassari clothing first took off in the Far East (the company is still a major presence at the Japanese department store Takashimaya and can be found in many of China’s finest shops), much of the focus today is on appealing to the American consumer, who can be seen wearing a Baldassari overcoat to the office, a soft-shouldered sport jacket to dinner, or a sweater for a weekend outing. “Americans are very precise when it comes to dressing up. It’s about the perfect cuff or the right drape. They are always striving for excellence,” says Renato. “But we’ve also found they can be very open-minded when it comes to color or pattern, and have been very welcoming to the looks we create. There’s no pressure on our part to just make a black suit. And that’s also one of the great things about being in a family business. We don’t really worry about what the rest of the industry is doing or about chasing trends. While we’re very sensitive about our relationship with our selling partners, the bottom line is we’re able to make and sell what we like.”
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Quality is Always Fashionable
man of style
Steel STANDING MEET THE MAN BEHIND THIS ICONIC 9/11 PHOTOGRAPH. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
nthony Whitaker was at his apartment in Harlem on September 11, 2001 when he got the call from his boss at Con Ed: he was needed downtown at the World Trade Center to ensure that first responders had power for their rescues. Subways weren’t running, so he walked many miles to get there. Nearly asphyxiated by heavy smoke, he repaired power lines in the Hot Zone, mesmerized by the haunting image in front of him: the skeletal remains of the South Tower. Overcome by this spiritual symbol of endurance and hope, he snapped a photo; days later, the building came down. So who is this man who shared his iconic 9/11 image with the world in order to establish a foundation (steelstanding.org) to help those confronting adversity? (Among the first beneficiaries: Homes for Our Troops.) Whitaker grew up in the Bronx, has always had a passion for ancient art, was an athlete as a teenager, launched a clothing line as a young man, and turned down a modeling career because his mother, a Jehovah’s Witness, disapproved. “She’s all about humility and spiritual pursuits vs. ego and material things. I’ve always admired her values; I could never disappoint her.” Still, based on an early foray into fashion design (he once won an award at a menswear trade show for “most promising new designer”), Whitaker is into clothes. He loves Zegna suits and Italian leather shoes; he owns literally hundreds of ties. And at 6’4’’ and a 44 long (“I’m not as fit as I once was…”), he looks great in whatever he wears. Whitaker is now completing work on a Steel Standing sculpture in steel and marble to be permanently displayed at the Pentagon this fall. Not just a man of style, this is a man of steel, a man of character.
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Like iconic structures, well-designed clothing beckons to be “inhabited.� This fall, form, function & fabric converge for a season of unforgettable style.
of
ARCHITECTURE
STYLE
PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR | MAKEUP: GREGG HUBBARD WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT STILL-LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY: BRIAN KLUTCH PRODUCT STYLING: ALEJANDRA SARMIENTO
quality
Hallmarks of
TOP
TAILORING ROLL-PADDING
provides spring and shape to the lapels.
HAND-SEWN ARMHOLES
create softness in the shoulder for comfort and a more natural shape.
FULLY BASTED CANVAS CHEST PIECE is labor-intensive but adds shape, fit and longevity to the garment.
HAND STITCHING
on all edges, flaps and collars provides a superior overall finish.
REAL HORSETAIL CANVAS is for added durability in the chest piece.
GENEROUS SEAM ALLOWANCES
BLIND STITCHING
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IMAGE COURTESY OF SAMUELSOHN
create ease of tailoring should you gain (or lose) weight.
in the jacket vent and hem lining provides better lining fit and easier alterations.
Since
1954
the FASHION forum OH KEI!
I
f Canali’s Kei jacket has taken the fashion world by storm, it’s no surprise. As cozy and light as a knit garment, impeccably sharp, and so comfortable it can be worn year-round, this softly structured jacket is a masterpiece of Italian tailoring that can be appreciated (and worn) by men from every walk of life. And that’s exactly what Giorgio Canali had planned from the start: “When we created the Kei jacket, we didn’t have a specific customer in mind. We wanted something that would be timeless and appeal to many different types of men. The Kei strikes the perfect balance between comfort and style and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. It’s this level of versatility that makes it such a hit season after season.” Trust us: no closet should be without one!
PERFECTION PERSONIFIED
Wisdom of many sorts is dispensed in A.C. Phillips’ wonderful how-to guide, The Pocket Square: 22 Essential Folds. Each chapter (with such unforgettable titles as “The Guido Puff” or “Diamonds are Forever”) illustrates how to create one pocket square look perfect for any suit or sportcoat. Better still, each section is preceded by an aptly chosen quote from a style icon, ranging from playwright Oscar Wilde to actors Cary Grant and Jimmy Stewart to designers Hardy Amies, Tom Ford and Luciano Barbera. Best of all, there’s also a page with eight must-know “Etiquette” rules, including our favorite: “A gentleman should carry one square for show and another to blow.” Now this is what we call essential reading.
If there was any lingering question of the brilliance, innovation and craftsmanship of the late couturier Yves Saint Laurent, the new museum exhibition Yves Saint Laurent: The Perfection of Style (on view at the Seattle Art Museum from October 11 to January 16 before traveling to the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts on May 7) should put any doubts to rest. This multifaceted retrospective drawn from the collection of the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent will shine a bright light on the designer’s genius. On view will be 100 of his greatest creations that span nearly 50 years— some never before seen in public—along with photographs, drawings and films that give insight into his particular process. Says curator Florence Muller: “The changes he progressively introduced into the traditional representation of the feminine and masculine bodies and the codes of seduction stand at the origin of the profound changes of contemporary ways of dress.” Truer words were never spoken.
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THE FASHION FORUM WRITTEN BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
Square Deal
The Fashion Forum
J
ohnny Cash wasn’t always the man in black. Don’t believe us? Just head to the Hard Rock Hotel Palm Springs, which not only has Cash’s signed green corduroy jacket on display, but such other fabulous fashions as Sammy Davis Jr.’s 1974 custom suit, a one-of-a-kind vinyl outfit worn by Cher, and Lady Gaga’s shiny silicon, silver wire and crystal dress. And through December 31, you can truly feel like a rock star by taking advantage of the Hard Rock’s “Amplified” package (available at all 23 of its hotels around the globe), which includes not just a personalized tour of the hotel’s memorabilia collection, but also a pre-reserved Fender guitar complete with floor amp and headphones, a special collectible pin and a limitededition hat. One visit here and any blues you have (Folsom Prison or otherwise) will be a long-forgotten memory.
SPRINGS AHEAD
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food THE JOYS OF CUSTOM CLOTHING MIGHT BE EXCEEDED ONLY BY THE JOYS OF CUSTOM COOKING. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Multicultural
CUISINE
n a recent trip to Montreal, we and the other member stores in the Forum Apparel Group were treated to a fabulous dinner, sponsored by Samuelsohn, created and curated by award-winning chef Antonio Park. In their book Montreal Cooks, Jonathan Cheung and Tays Spencer attribute Park’s talent to his unique heritage (South American and Korean) and his training (in Japan, where he studied with several masters at the Michiba culinary school). Park attributes it mostly to his mother, from whom he first learned about cooking. “She prepared everything from scratch using ingredients from the family’s one-acre backyard,” he explains. “She even dried and milled her own spices, fermented her own miso, and created her own soy sauce.” At his popular restaurant, Park, this modest and humble young man is famous for putting healthy spins on traditional dishes using natural foods like brown rice, quinoa, organic vegetables and vegan ingredients. “My current style of cooking features sustainable ingredients, using the whole product so there’s minimal waste in the kitchen,” Park tells us. “Because we are
what we eat, we should respect the ingredients we use.” As Cheung and Spencer write in their book: “With Kimchi and sashimi running through his veins, Antonio delivers some of the best Asian food in the city from his eponymous Westmount restaurant.” They also note that Park is one of few chefs in Canada to have his own private fish import license. But then there’s his father’s roots, the Argentinian connection, the meat-loving half of his heritage. In Park’s second restaurant, Lavanderia (featuring 30-foot walls and laundry lines hung with seasonal artwork), it’s all about tapas-style grilled meats (asada). Interestingly, the restaurant is named for the factory his father owned in Argentina that produced acid wash and stonewash finishes for top American denim brands. Lunchtime at the factory, a meal for hundreds of workers, often featured blood sausage, ribs, chorizo, sweetbreads, even a whole cow grilled over the roots of a mango tree. Asked what he does when he’s not working and what most inspires him, Park (a Chopped Canada winner and frequent TV contributor) admits that he’s always working. “But my main inspiration, since childhood, continues to be my mom.”
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{Louisville’s Finest}
July/August 2016
slmag.net
five dollars
{ LOUISVILLE'S FINEST}
slmag.net COLUMBUS NASHVILLE ST. LOUIS CINCINNATI LOUISVILLE LEXINGTON CHICAGO INDIANAPOLIS ARIZONA
end page
The Card
Game
ears ago, after a divorce, I moved to a nearby town and asked a colleague if he was interested in forming a poker game. I also asked a neighbor, an acquaintance I met at my daughter’s day care, a former coworker and a friend of a friend. When enough people showed interest, the game was on. Twenty-five years later, although players have come and gone, a core seven remain. I’m a semi-retired general dentist; Fedele is also a dentist, Stan an oral surgeon, Lloyd a professor of molecular biology, Jeff a CPA, Robert a television engineer and John a retired systems analyst. The group has some diversity: Stan is African-American and John, Chinese. We’ve played together so long that we implicitly know each other’s style, so it’s hard to bluff! We’ve learned to accept each other’s quirks and idiosyncrasies. We recall many of the same stories at each game. My favorite is about the time I bit into a hot pepper while eating a sub sandwich. The juice of the pepper squirted across the table and hit Fedele in the eye. He screamed like he’d been shot and, with one eye closed, ran to the nearest bathroom. Bending down to splash some water in his eye, he didn’t notice that Stan had recently installed a glass shelf above the sink. When he stood up, his head hit the shelf with a loud crash and he hobbled back to the card table with one hand pressing his eye and the other the top of his head. We couldn’t stop laughing. One game we play is called three-legged: the pot keeps growing until someone wins three hands. We have a sophisticated tracking system: each player marks his wins with cheese Combos or peanut
M&Ms; if you eat one, you lose it. Fedele’s brother was sitting in at a game one night and quite innocently put one of his markers in his mouth. One of the guys noticed and screamed out, “He’s eating it!” Hearing this, Fedele’s brother urgently spit the candy across the room, certain he was being poisoned. Stan usually works the day of the game and rushes to get home, eat dinner with his family, do some chores, and then get to the game. As a result he’s always late; our tradition is to place a side bet on what time he’ll show up. One night Robert mentioned that he was going to celebrate his birthday the following week. Surprised, I told him I had similar plans; it turned out we had the same birthday. We’d been playing cards together for decades before learning this! Lloyd is very methodical (or superstitious). For as long as I can remember, he has come to the games with his money in an old metal Band-Aid box decorated with Disney characters. He leaves with his money in the same box, never counting it, always declaring, “It’s about the fun of playing…” We are all grown men with good minds, responsible jobs and decent math skills. But when it comes to counting the pot or splitting the winnings, we defer to Jeff, the Certified Public Accountant. Much has happened in the past 25 years: moves, marriages, children, job changes, illnesses, loss of loved ones. Life is unpredictable; nothing stays the same. But for 25 years, our game has survived, providing continuity, connection and comfort to an unlikely group of guys who share an ineffable common bond.
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GETTY IMAGES THE CARD PLAYERS BY PAUL CÉZANNE
LAUGHTER AND CAMARADERIE IN A SERIOUS WORLD. BY WAYNE MAIBAUM
RODES FORUM FW 2016/17