Rodes

Forum/The Substance of Style/SS 2017

SNEAK PREVIEW WAKE UP YOUR

WARDROBE WITH EVERYONE’S FAVORITE FOOTWEAR

HAUTE GRAFFi I TI ARE MURALS THE NEW MUSEUMS?

UNBELIEVABLE EATS FROM AROUND THE WORLD

Rodes 502-753-7633

22

rodes.com

The Fashion Forum

4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222

PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Michelle Brown EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Menghi DESIGNER

Jean-Nicole Venditti

52

Wheels: Living the Fantasy

CONCEPT DIRECTOR

Andrew Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

FEATURES 6 16 46 48 50 54

John Frascone

R World Happenings Seasonal Calendar of Events Food: Over-the-Top Eats Art: Outdoor Renaissance Sports: Playing With Passion Wine: So You Want to Be a Sommelier?

APPAREL FORUM

32 Getting Sneaky

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA

Profile: Christine Moore Millinery Profile: Canali Profile: L’Agence Getting Sneaky Style of the Sun Gods

Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

DEPARTMENTS 4 12 14 22 26 30 52 56

Welcome Letter Ask Susan Ask Jim The Fashion Forum Designers: Inspired Design Man of Style: Michael Armstrong Wheels: Living the Fantasy First Person: Fashion Class

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

FASHION 18 20 24 32 34

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM. ©2017 FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE, A UBM® PUBLICATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. UBM AMERICAS, 2 PENN PLAZA, FLOOR 15, NEW YORK, NY 10121. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED

56 First Person: Fashion Class

WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 20, ISSUE 1.

PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

welcome

WE LOVE THIS TIME OF YEAR!

Spring is the time for growth and optimism.

As you read and hear about the evolving nature of retail, we are uniquely positioned for the future.

Our world is shaped by the internet, Millennials, the changing landscape of malls and the advent of users researching products and services online before purchasing. We are so excited to be part of this future. People desire less “stuff” and more quality—values we share.

We live in the most “branded” time in our history, and we see the return of tactile shopping and exploration for a great new piece of clothing. All of this “change” is who we are at Rodes.

We have the ability to excite you with world-class brands, a great knowledgeable staff, who not only know about the technical details of products, but most importantly, why and how to put it all together.

Our renowned tailors and seamstresses will adjust your garments for the perfect fit, taking personal pride in how you feel and look in your outfit.

We are blessed to be part of all that is new, where quality, attention to detail and amazing service matter… funny, it almost feels like history is repeating itself!

See you around town, Sue and Howard Vogt

R WORLD

A most fashion-savvy St. Nick visited Rodes for our Customer Appreciation Day in December to listen to wishlists from kids of all ages. In a tradition that shows appreciation for our most loyal clients, the most popular “designer� of the day was Santa, in his highly sought-after red suit.

R WORLD Our good friends at Northwestern Mutual hosted a special evening at Rodes in December. The guest speaker was none other than U of L basketball coach Rick Pitino.

Quality Isn’t Espensive,

It’s Priceless

100 Years of Heritage

R WORLD We celebrated Jim Hines’ 50th Anniversary at Rodes! Clients, friends, family, and former and current co-workers attended a party to congratulate Jim on his many achievements. The mayor also honored Jim with a proclaimation.

askSUSAN

SPRING 2017 FASHION TIPS FOR HER

porate it into your look is with an accessory like a scarf or handbag.

If it just doesn’t appeal to you, plenty of our other favorite colors are available on the floor. Spring and summer always bring out the fresh and the best.

Q:

Which new brands should I be on the lookout for the next time I visit the store?

At Rodes, our goal is to bring you the lines and items we know you want, but also to help you step outside your comfort zone and offer something new. So we’ve brought in some brands we think you’ll love to give a twist to your tried-and-true favorites.

We’re excited to introduce Cinq a Sept, whose bold, sleek, big-city style we love. Kobi Halperin is also new to the store, and we know you’ll adore her relaxed, feminine pieces with a great fit. We are introducing Dylan by True Grit and Frank & Eileen for their great weekend tops, which pair back perfectly to denim from L’Agence and McGuire. Charming dresses from Camelot, new sportswear from

Q:

In the past I’ve shied away from bright colors, and green in particular, but this year green seems to be everywhere. How can I ease this shade into my wardrobe?

Robert Rodriguez and Luisa Cerano: these items (and many others) are bringing a fresh, updated look to the floor at Rodes. Come in and let us show you how they can do the same for your closet

mer 2017 collections from our favorite brands, and Pantone

I’ve outlived my shorts and miniskirt days, but I still crave a fun look for summer. Are there other options for staying cool in the warmer months?

solidified the trend when they named Greenery as the 2017

There are always options! Dresses are playful, comfortable and

Color of the Year. It makes some skin tones become vibrant

come in all different lengths. Choose a skirt that hits at or just

while others look washed out, so small doses of this shade are

under the knee, or expose more leg but keep covered up on top.

usually a safer bet. Or opt for a more universally flattering

Our dress assortment for the season highlights gorgeous sleeves

shade of green, like olive.

from our favorite designers: St. John, La Petite Robe, Escada,

We noticed the same thing when shopping the spring/sum-

People in the fashion world sometimes get caught up on the specific Color of the Year. Some years you see everyone wear-

Q:

Black Halo, Lela Rose and Shoshanna, plus many more.

Within many of our collections we also have some of the best-fit-

ing it, and some years the only place you see it is in the limit-

ting pants! You’ll find the must-have tech pant from Lafayette 148,

ed-edition makeup palette at Sephora. But it’s not meant to be

this year coming in white. We have a nice variety of pants and jeans

dictatorial; you should think of it as a springboard when shop-

from Cambio, as well as some tried-and-true great-fitting pants

ping for the season. Greenery in particular works best as an

from Peace of Cloth, Elliot Lauren and Donna Degnan. Whether an

accent in small pops. (And it certainly wouldn’t be our first

ankle, a wide-leg crop, or a capri, all of our pant styles have been

pick for an eyeshadow or lipstick shade!) An easy way to incor-

bought with the intention of completing a perfect silhouette.

12

askJIM

SPRING 2017 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Q:

I see a lot of guys wearing shorter, tighter suits these days; is that still the look for 2017?

Only if you’re comfortable in it. The more important factor is that the suit should fit: anything too baggy or long is definitely out of style. Some general rules: shoulders should reflect your natural shoulder stance, sleeves should allow a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff showing, buttons on the coat shouldn’t pull, pants should feel comfortable, without ripples but without excess fabric. Trouser length should skim the top of your shoe, but a slight break is also acceptable.

Fortunately, today’s suits in new performance fabrics enhance both fit and comfort. Let us show you a few exciting options.

kind of shirt would look great worn both with and without a tie?

Q: What

Q:

I’d like a new sport coat that’s not a basic blazer. What do you suggest?

Patterns, be they subtle or loud, are definitely happening in spring sport coats. We love the more muted plaids in shades of blue, berry or soft gray, but feel free to make a bolder statement if you dare, especially since these fashionforward sport coats work as well with jeans and five-pocket pants as they do with dress trousers.

There’s a new kind of shirt referred to as a hybrid: somewhere between dress shirt and sport shirt. Often, there’s a button between the traditional first and second button positions, so that even if you’re not wearing a tie, the impression is neater. Look also for sporty details like contrast fabric in the collar and/or sleeve cuff, contrast buttons, or brightly stitched buttonholes that won’t show if you’re wearing a tie. Speaking of new spring ties, why not try a more casual knit, or a seasonal blend with cotton, silk or linen?

14

Seasonal Calendar of

EVENTS

MARCH 9TH

AN EVENING OF FASHION HONORING SUG SCHUSTERMAN AT THE KENTUCKY DERBY MUSEUM

featuring Lourdes Chavez apparel & Christine Moore hats MARCH 9TH – 11TH

LOURDES CHAVEZ SPRING TRUNK SHOW & CHRISTINE MOORE HATS

APRIL 13TH

WOMEN OF TOCQUEVILLE “SIP, SHOP & SERVE” EVENT FOR METRO UNITED WAY APRIL 13TH – 15TH

ORLANDA OLSEN COUTURE JEWELRY SHOW APRIL 13TH – 15TH

MARCH 11TH

CRESCALA FASHION DEVELOPMENT SPRING TRUNK SHOW

MARCH 15TH – 16TH

featuring designers Nha Khanh, Landero, Snider, Juliana Bass, Wai Ming & Essie et Cie

ISAIA SPRING TRUNK SHOW MEASURE UP SHIRT TRUNK SHOW

APRIL 20TH MARCH 16TH

SAMUELSOHN SPRING TRUNK SHOW MARCH 18TH

RODES CITY RUN 10K BENEFIT FOR THE CRUSADE FOR CHILDREN MARCH 25TH

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SPRING TRUNK SHOW

DERBY DIVAS FUNDRAISER FOR NORTON’S BREAST HEALTH CINDY BORDERS JEWELRY SHOW

MAY 1ST – 4TH

CHRISTINE MOORE HAT SHOW MAY 18TH – 20TH

ESCADA & BASLER FALL TRUNK SHOWS MAY 24TH – 25TH

DONNA DEGNAN FALL TRUNK SHOW

NATURA BISSE FACIAL EVENT JUNE 9TH – 10TH

ST. JOHN FALL TRUNK SHOW JUNE 15TH – 17TH

ALGO FALL TRUNK SHOW JUNE 21ST – JULY 1ST

LAFAYETTE 148 NY FALL TRUNK SHOW

APRIL 20TH – 21ST

TRISH MCEVOY MAKEUP WORKSHOP

JUNE 22ND – 24TH

GAY HARRISON JEWELRY SHOW

APRIL 20TH – 22ND

CHRISTINE MOORE HAT SHOW APRIL 21ST – 22ND

CLARA WILLIAMS CO. JEWELRY SHOW EMY MACK SHOE SHOW APRIL 22ND

ETON SHIRT DAY

EXCLUSIVELY AT

VISIT RODES.COM FOR DETAILS!

profile

Seeing is BELIEVING

As a Northeast gal, Christine Moore wasn’t sure there was a market for her hats. Then she met the ladies of Louisville.

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE Christine Moore stumbled into the world of hat-making when she worked as an assistant designer in the costume department at Philadelphia’s Walnut Street Theater. There she met a milliner and fell in love with the craft. When Moore’s husband began grad school at Columbia, the couple moved to New York City, where she got a job under leading Broadway milliner Rodney Gordon. She loved the creative process but admits that “theater is a collaborative art, and I’m not really a joiner!” So in 1994, Moore started her own collection, which was picked up immediately by

a few key retailers. Still, it took time to find her niche.

“I started on a shoestring. I couldn’t afford to have a small, edited collection of everyday hats, so I tried to make something for everyone.” Anne Garvey from She of Louisville (now part of Rodes) was one of the first to believe in Moore. “She bought my fanciest hats and helped teach me what the customer wanted.”

For the Kentucky woman, Moore quickly learned, “Derby is the most exciting day of the year, more than Christmas! Coming from the Northeast, I didn’t get it until I saw it firsthand. There can even be tears of devastation if one’s hat isn’t perfect. But then Derby day arrives and everyone is all smiles. I love it!”

Moore was soon introduced to Susan Vogt and the team at Rodes, and the rest is history! This season she’ll join us for three trunk shows to personally help customers select their best hats for Derby-day style. “I love meeting customers and I often invite people to visit my studio if they are ever in New York. I love for people to see how the hats are made and to meet my staff.”

The Christine Moore Millinery collection can include over 150 styles at any one time: a host of creative new designs rounded out with perennial favorites. From dyeing the straw to handpainting the edges of fabric flowers, each step in the hat-making process is undertaken in Moore’s New York City studio.

Her business is seasonal based on racing and charity events around the country, so from January through July, Moore hires a team of about 10 artists who all cram into the tiny space. “I hire fellow ‘theater people;’ they’ve had the same training as me and are just as meticulous about the handwork,” she explains. She doesn’t have a warehouse, so her team makes every hat to order and can ship out within two days.

While hat-making is tough, detail-oriented work, Moore’s career has also been injected with plenty of excitement. She has designed custom pieces for celebrities like Al Roker and Mary J. Blige, and she regularly appears as a fashion commentator during the Today Show’s Derby coverage. She even collaborated with Churchill Downs and Mattel to design and make hats for the limitededition Kentucky Derby Barbie.

The most rewarding part, she says, is that “people come to me to go all out.

Nobody ever asks me to tone it down with my designs; they always want more! As an artist, that’s what makes it fun.”

Smoothing, shaping and energizing

LUXURY FOR THE LEGS

profile

Master of Giorgio Canali

Style

On what it takes to be the best.

Would you share a brief background of the company?

Canali was founded near Milan in 1934 by two brothers, Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. The decades that have passed have seen the arrival of new generations, new energy and new vision for the company, but through all this, we’ve maintained our dedication and passion for our work. Today Canali is an undisputed international leader in tailor-made luxury with our own centers of production (all in Italy), more than 1,800 employees, 250 boutiques, and over 1,000 retail stores in more than 100 countries.

Did you always know you’d work in the family business?

Not exactly, but it became sort of natural. Growing up in the company and being constantly exposed to various aspects of the business, I developed a growing interest.

What are the joys and headaches?

The joys and headaches reflect the pride and, at the same time, the responsibility of working in a company that bears your name. A business that your own family created and built gives you much motivation, but also a fair amount of pressure.

Who has been your mentor or role model?

Definitely my father: he has transferred to me his passion and dedication. What’s more, he taught me respect for other people’s work and their efforts, and to always remember our responsibility towards the talented artisans who work here.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

expert tailors on an internal canvas structure, guaranteeing a more comfortable, durable and elegant garment. We take pride in using fabrics that represent the very best of local Italian mills; we work closely with them to design patterns and colors and blends so that the majority of our fabrics are exclusive.

There has been much talk about fit in recent seasons: can suits get any slimmer?

It’s not a question of slim or not, it’s more about a focus on freedom and spontaneity. Men expect their clothing to be elegant, comfortable and in synch with today’s lifestyle. A slimmer silhouette often gives a guy a more youthful, tailored look. Elegance lies in the right balance of numerous components, not on any extreme.

How do we get American men to dress more Italian?

If a man isn’t comfortable in what he’s wearing, he can never be elegant. That said, the secret to an ‘Italian look’ is sprezzatura—a term first made popular by Baldassare Castiglione in his 16th-century handbook The Book of the Courtier. He used it to express the uniquely Italian art of making things look effortless. A key element in Italian style is that an outfit never look forced, uncomfortable or unnatural. Anyone can achieve this by wearing garments that combine fine fabrics, expert cutting and beautiful design, all intrinsic to a Canali suit.

Can you talk about Su Misura?

Canali’s Su Misura is the highest expression of the Canali experience, elevating the excellence of Canali craftsmanship to a new level.

Our customers love the personalized and unique experience, where our experts analyze the specifications of your physique and then translate this information into a perfect suit incorporating the characteristics of comfort and elegance that are the hallmarks of our tailoring.

What differentiates a Canali suit from the competition?

How would you describe your personal style?

The secret to a Canali suit lies in its construction. We are proud to craft our garments according to time-honored sartorial tradition. Our suits are built by

I would define it as discrete elegance, updated but with a nod to classic. On weekends, I enjoy wearing sophisticated sportswear, but I often add a sport coat and dressy shoes.

20

Children are at the heart of what we do – and they always have been for 125 years. We’re here to share your family’s victories and losses, heal the body, restore childhood and do our part to make their world – and yours – better than before. Under a new name, Norton Children’s is still the community you can turn to for support, compassion and all your pediatric health care needs.

Learn more about the Receveurs’ and other families’ experiences at NortonChildrens.com.

Every age. Every stage. Every step of the way.

The Receveurs and Stacy Flanders, RN

the FASHION forum

By Brian Scott Lipton

PACK IT UP!

W

ith airlines charging more each day for checked baggage and even for carry-ons, savvy business travelers are constantly searching for smart solutions that allow them to fit more apparel in one bag—and have it arrive at their destination looking just as fresh as it did in their closet. Europeanbased luggage maker Vocier’s C38 bag (part of its smartly curated collection) is one very clever answer to this nagging problem: the patented “Zero-Crease” system allows you to pack two suits in a special protected sleeve that gently curves around the interior of the bag, protecting your suits from wrinkles. In addition, there’s plenty of room in the interior pocket for shoes, shirts, socks, underwear and belts—even a wash bag to take everything back home!

MAGNIFICENT OBSESSIONS Window dresser extraordinaire Simon Doonan prizes his “Prince head.” Fashion designer John Bartlett treasures his late father’s 1975 Cincinnati Reds World Series ring, while actor Tony Goldwyn proudly displays one of his family’s favorite heirlooms—a large Buddha statue—in the bay window of his living room.

How do we know these things? Thank jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann, who has interviewed more than 65 world-famous personalities about their favorite things in her impressive coffee-table tome, A Possession Obsession (Glitterati Incorporated).

Kosann’s gorgeous photography accompanies each revealing interview, with words and pictures adding up to some of the most beautiful stories ever told.

22

CHARGE IT!

Cashmere and cotton are eternally chic, but two things currently at the height of fashion are sustainability and electric cars. So it’s no wonder that one of the world’s most fashionable hotel chains, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, has installed charging stations for electric cars at select properties across the globe, from San Francisco to Barcelona. Two stations at each hotel allow drivers the ability to charge their cars for up to 150 miles in a mere two and a half hours. So the next time you’re on vacation, you have no excuse not to hit the streets—and you can feel good about doing it!

CURTAIN CALL

T

heater aficionados know that London and New York are the transcontinental capitals of this beloved art form, so it makes perfect sense that the exhibition Curtain Up: Celebrating the Last 40 Years of Theatre in New York and London has relocated from London’s Victoria & Albert Museum to New York’s Public Library for the Performing Arts. Through June, this special installation highlights how the theater districts of both cities have flourished and developed since 1976, and features designs, models, photographs, archival production materials and multimedia elements from such award-winning shows as Mary Poppins, Chicago, Wicked and many more. Fashionistas will be particularly delighted by the costumes on display, including masks from Phantom of the Opera, masks and African garb from The Lion King, and titular footwear from Kinky Boots. So make a run for the fascinating show while there’s still time. (Just don’t break a leg.)

23

profile

L’Agence, Je t’aime

BY NICOLA HARRISON RUIZ

When you think of French style, an effortlessly chic, feminine and confidently dressed woman immediately comes to mind.

But achieving that perfect balance—looking put-together without trying too hard—is not as easy as it seems.

Enter L’Agence, a Los Angeles brand that has been strongly influenced by Parisian style since its inception in 2008.

With a vision to create silhouettes that make women look and feel beautiful, the collection is built upon essentials that are sexy yet sophisticated, basic while body-conscious, tapping into that French girl attitude with a cool California touch.

Take, for example, the Rita blouse, the ideal date-night top.

The drape-front, long-sleeve silhouette displays a flattering shawl neckline, is shorter at the front so you don’t have to think about whether to tuck, and offers a subtle feminine touch in its delicate, slightly sheer fabric. The Bianca blouse, on the other hand, is a silk chiffon style that will go seamlessly from the office to cocktails tucked into a pencil skirt or under a blazer.

In denim, the high-rise Margot, mid-rise Brigitte and lowrise Chantal are all part of the line’s new French Jean Collection, which is made with fabrics from Isko, the industry leader in high-performance stretch denim. It keeps its shape, hugs, holds and gives in all the right places, but comes back to where it’s supposed to be no matter how much you wear it.

The contoured waistband (with construction borrowed from menswear) means the jeans won’t gap or reveal too much and greatly reduces chance of the dreaded muffin top, elevating these styles to ultimate denim status.

Femininity is a key component of L’Agence designs, which can be seen in something as simple as a lightweight knit sweater with a deep V in the back, embracing the classic French ability to be at once sexy and classy.

The spring collection features hints of military style: stars and studs, and lots of neutrals like gray and army green with pops of crimson. But L’Agence won’t stray far from what its customers have come to know and love—essential pieces that women actually want and need in their wardrobes.

24

designers

INSPIRED DESIGN WE ASKED OUR MOST FASHIONABLE FRIENDS ABOUT THE IMPACT OF ART ON THEIR CREATIVE PROCESSES.

ARNOLD BRANT SILVERSTONE, HICKEY FREEMAN & SAMUELSOHN I came across this photograph of rock formation called The Painted Desert, a visually wondrous place in the Badlands of Arizona. The band of colors struck me as ethereal. It stayed with me for days and I ultimately designed a

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

whole collection for Hickey Freeman spring/summer 2017 inspired by it with layers

MIKE FAHERTY, FAHERTY

of dusty rose, tan and putty.

From an early age I was interested in art and found myself practicing it

The arid essence of

frequently. I was lucky enough to grow up near New York City, so I had

the desert image natural-

access to some of the world's greatest museums. Early on I was drawn to

ly led to crafting a looser

more classical art styles like Impressionism, but through my education I

silhouette, which is a

was exposed to more eras of art and I found myself most excited about

pendulum swing from

the Abstract Expressionistic works of Gerhard Richter. His beautiful use

the previous season. We cut the interior canvas of our jackets on the bias

of color inspires me to this day.

for a fashionable drape. We hand-tailored incredibly light canvases and

When I started following Richter's artworks, it became clear to me that I

interlinings for feather-light construction combined with summer’s most

was mostly drawn to his

exotic fabrications. Silk runs throughout the collection to add quiet strength

use of color combinations.

to tissue-fine fabric and to add a whisper of luminosity.

As I made my way into the fashion world, I fell in love with designing tex-

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

tiles and creating my own color combinations in

I have a passion for literature as an art form and really value reading. My favorite and most-read book is Mediations by Marcus Aurelius. I have drawn many life lessons from his words and messages from the stories he writes. I discovered the book early on in my career and it has guided me in my life since. I instantly connected with its messages and the writings have become close treasures.

I have read this book numerous times and continually take away something new each time I read its passages. The foundation of the brand and the collection begins with the philosophies and ideologies that I believe in, many of which I discovered through the teachings of Marcus Aurelius. Just as the great philosophers value legacy, humanity and living a full life, these principles are carried with us as we design the collection each season.

prints and plaids, which are found throughout my collections at Faherty.

You have to walk a fine line when creating textiles and prints that stand out so that they are still easy to wear with the rest of your wardrobe.

When you walk into a museum or gallery and Richter is on the wall, you are immediately drawn to his use of color. But as you get closer, there is an easiness to the color combinations that makes them seem less daunting. That's always my intention when designing our textiles: at first you're drawn to them from across the store, but as you approach them, they become more inviting to wear.

26

SIMPLE · BEAUTIFUL · LIFE

WWW.LOUISVILLESTONEWARE.COM

BOB CORLISS, ROBERT TALBOTT In my mind the most thoughtful and inspirational painting is Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, part of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The two hands coming together is such a powerful image and it talks about anything being possible. It’s motivational as well as beautiful.

But to tell you the truth, our surroundings are our biggest inspiration. We live in a really special location—The Monterey Peninsula—and Carmel in particular is one of the most spectacular places on the planet. Mountains, valleys, oceans in beautiful colors; we call it God’s canvas. The weather patterns are very dynamic, but it never gets extremely hot or cold. We have different people from all over the world visiting at all times. Those factors all influence the colors and styles that make up our collections.

The design process is a collaborative journey between our creative director Mark Calder and his very talented team. We started as a neckwear company and have an archive that houses every design dating back to 1950, also a source of endless inspiration for us.

SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON If I had to choose one work of art that really blew my mind I would have to say La Divina Commedia by Dante, and Botticelli's depiction of it in La Carte de l'Enfer. I really didn't know who Dante was or what La Divina Commedia was when I picked it up at 18 years old. It was an Italian version that I bought in London and I could hardly understand anything, but I tried my best. Then I read it through in English online and it was more an experience than just a book. Hard to put words on it.

I would not say that a specific piece of art has inspired me or my work though. I always walk around with my eyes open. Having to constantly come up with new ideas and concepts to develop

GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA

into mood boards for our brands means that I can’t

My favorite works are the Napoli landscapes of Giacinto Gigante. Napoli is at the heart

get stuck too long in one idea.

of everything we do at Isaia. These references are seen in the way we create each piece

I wish I could say that Botticelli shines through

of clothing: Neapolitan tradition mixed with a contemporary point of view. What I also

my collections, but I can't (LOL). However, I always

like about this painter is that he was introduced to his craft by his father, just like I was

do my best and push myself so that whatever we set

introduced to sartorial tailoring by my father, Enrico Sr.

our minds on doing, we do it properly and put our

The colors in his pieces struck me first. They have a very dreamlike effect, but com-

hearts into it. In an ideal world I could spend one

bine different styles and techniques. I also like that he was a little bit of a rebel amongst

year on every collection. The hardest thing working

the Academy of Fine Arts in Napoli. This makes him very interesting as he did not try

in fashion is that it is so cyclic and with this constant

to conform his style too much.

need of news, you always feel that there is never

Just like Gigante we don't try to conform to trends. We like to create new ideas. We

enough time. But that's just how it is. Perhaps one

stay true to our DNA and don't change everything based on what the industry tells us.

day consumption will have to slow down and the

We observe what is happening around us, but remain true to who we are. Also, the

world will only focus on producing really well-made

depictions of Napoli that Gigante created are seen in each of our inspirations for the

stuff that's built to last for a decade. I'm proud that at

season. Napoli is always at the heart. We play with color the way a painter does. It’s just

Eton our goods last for a very long time.

a different art medium.

28

Beautifully crafted jewelr y with a fine disposition and a magnetic personality.

LIMIT LESS POSS IBILIT IES

man of style

SOLE SEARCHING MICHAEL ARMSTRONG, EXECUTIVE CHEF AT NYC’S DREAM DOWNTOWN BODEGA NEGRA RESTAURANT AND SELF-PROCLAIMED SNEAKERHEAD, ON FOOD, FASHION AND FEET.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN How did you first become interested in food?

Growing up in the Michael Jordan era, I ran track and cross country so I had lots of Air Jordans. When I moved to NYC, I started collecting sneakers, especially retro-inspired styles. I have about 200 pairs now—Nike, Adidas, Reebok, Asics, New Balance and many others… My favorites: black/royal Air Jordans from 2001 that I bought a few years ago for $500 and blue Air Jordan 2s that I just donated to a gallery in Chicago.

They sold at $1,500.

I always cooked for my family in Seattle starting at age 12 or 13. It just came naturally to me so I ended up in culinary school in Portland, where I then worked for a year or two. I moved to NYC on a whim; when the exec chef I was working with moved to Tao in Vegas, he called me to be his sous-chef. Bodega Negra is owned by Tao. The original is in London and we’ve recreated several of their signature dishes: quesadilla rustica, tuna ceviche, softshell crab tacos…

What other shoes do you wear?

Could you articulate the food/fashion connection?

Any advice to a guy looking to buy sneakers?

It’s a symbiotic relationship. Dining out is more than just good food: it’s dressing up, it’s see and be seen, it’s a mood and an energy. These days, the trend is away from fine dining toward a more fun casual experience— in both food and fashion. A suit and tie is great, but not mandatory. It’s often about cool streetwear and the right sneakers. It’s about handcrafted food and artisan cocktails in a fun, relaxed, comfortable setting.

Buy what you love, don’t worry about trends. It’s about how you rock it. It’s about confidence. A lot of designer companies are now creating high-end dressier sneakers that don’t look like basketball shoes. I really like them but I don’t own them. It’s not my personal style. (Although I wouldn’t mind trying some Saint Laurent high-tops…)

From where comes your passion for sneakers?

Could you tell us about a recent recipe you’ve created?

Like much of my generation, I’ve always loved street style, rap music, the hip-hop lifestyle. (And New York City embodies it all!)

We partnered with The Foundation and Under Armour to launch Steph Curry’s new sneaker. The featured dish: red curry chicken…

30

Most chefs wear clogs, but I wear only sneakers. I don’t even own dress shoes (but I do own one pair of cowboy boots). I work on my feet 70 hours a week so I need comfort, support and slipresistance. I wore Air Force Ones to my wedding (after tailoring the suit to showcase the sneakers). I gave custom Nike 10s as gifts to my groomsmen.

SLEEK LEATHER TRAINERS ARE A GREAT COMPLEMENT TO FIVE-POCKET PANTS. With a lightweight jacket and cool cotton shirt, this will become your go-to spring look.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER. FASHION DIRECTION BY MICHAEL FUSCO. STYLING ASSISTANCE BY LEAH SNOW.

PETER MILLAR OUTERWEAR, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHIRT, PETER MILLAR PANT, W. KLEINBERG BELT, SHINOLA WATCH, MAGNANNI SNEAKER

SN GettingE A KY

ISAIA SPORT COAT AND POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER

ISAIA SPORT COAT AND POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER

When dressing up your shorts, trade the tired WHEN DRESSING UP YOUR SHORTS, DITCH THE sneakers.

LOAFERS AND LET loafer look for burnished leather There’s no better way BURNISHED SNEAKERS THERE’S NOLEATHER BETTER WAY TO KEEPSUBIT IN. COOL, COMFORTABLE AND CLASSY. to keep it cool, comfortable and classy.

STYLE OF THE SUN GODS PHO T OGR APHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR: MARCELINO MAKEUP: CL AIRE BAYLEY WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT S T I L L- L I F E P H O T O G R A P H Y : B R I A N K L U T C H S T I L L- L I F E S T Y L I N G : A L E J A N D R A S A R M I E N T O F O R H A L L E Y R E S O U R C E S

THIS SEASON, DISCOVER AN ARRAY OF FRESH, POWERFUL LOOKS THAT SHINE AS BRIGHTLY AS THE SUN.

?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

STEP INTO THE LIGHT.

LOOK TO THE SUN & THE SHADOWS WILL ALWAYS FALL BEHIND YOU.

ETON

37

ROBERT TALBOTT BALDASSARI

TRASK

39

EXPLORE CONTRAST AT THE INTERSECTION OF LIGHT & DARK.

ROBERT TALBOTT INIS MEÁIN

41

POWERED

BY THE BRIGHTNESS, BUT WHIMSICAL & WEARABLE.

CINQ A SEPT

STYLES THAT STAND UP TO THE SUN’S RADIANT INTENSITY.

CANALI PT01

OVER-THE-TOP

EATS

In the name of total satiation, we traveled the world to dine under spectacular circumstances. BY SHIRA LEVINE 46

HOTEL DE GLACE IMAGE © DANY VACHON.

food

Climatic Cuisine There’s roughly a three-month window during which you can experience Quebec’s Hôtel de Glace (right) where you’ll quickly learn how chill feasting within an ice castle can be. Critical resources: hearty grub, puffy coats and a generator. Pop-up icy dining with an Arctic atmosphere is certainly a northern thing. Kemi, Finland’s Snow Castle, maintains a temp of -5 Celsius while serving local salmon, perch and lamb. Austria’s Kitzbühel Alps is home to Alpeniglu Dorf, an igloo restaurant serving fondues and boasting an open-air snow bar, as well as an ice church.

Epic food is subjective.

Sometimes, a culinary adventure awaits domestically, in one’s very own hometown. But sometimes the most tantalizing feasts are those over-the-top experiential ones in far-flung locations.

We compiled a list of global dining and imbibing spots that left tasty impressions on the mind—and better still, the palate.

Sea(in)side Fare Who doesn’t love a swim-up bar? The Lagoon Bar at Iceland’s Blue Lagoon (opposite page) is restorative twice over courtesy of healing waters and a signature cocktail for a full detox/retox encounter. In Costa Rica, at Tabacón’s Arenal Pool Bar, a ceviche dish served in waist-deep thermal waters doesn't cramp those seeking splashy crater views. The waters are rich in calcium, lithium and silica, and are naturally heated by the Arenal volcano’s magma. Barbados' Crystal Cove had us (rum) punch drunk in love with the waterfall entry to a cave bar where fish from the very waters guests wade in is prepared to order (right). And Las Vegas' Tropicana Hotel offers noshes to those who swim up to the waterproof blackjack table. But next level al fresco comes in acqua. In Bora Bora’s otherworldly lagoons, Tahitian tour operators curate motu picnics, Polynesian suckling pig feasts set in shallow sandbar’d waters.

worth traveling for. In southeast Wales, she’s Pauline Griffiths, owner of the unsuspecting Art Shop & Chapel.

Located in Abergavenny, the café with courtyard garden is tucked below an old chapel and behind a market hall. What makes Griffiths like Waters are the ingredients: beetroot, leeks, curly kale and pheasant. Favorites? Grilled cheese with hawthorn berry ketchup, turmeric

golden mylk and oat milk lattes. Back across the pond, Woodberry Kitchen (above left) tantalizes in Baltimore.

Chef Spike Gjerde is Charm City’s midAtlantic sourcing Alice Waters. The slowcooked turkey potpie with rutabaga cream and kohlrabi, rabbit dirty rice with buttermilk fried saddle, and koshihikari rice and snake oil are swoonworthy. Foodies at Anguilla’s CuisinArt

Resort should expect nothing less than a hydroponic farm-totable experience given, well, the gigantic onsite hydroponic garden (above right). Chef Jasper Schneider’s veggies nourish the menus of five foodspots at the resort, and the Caribbean Sea’s bounty of finned foods round out the fresh and local dishes: lionfish, snapper and lobster, oh my!

IMAGE CREDITS

Luxe Local Feasting

O

utside of California, there’s an “Alice Waters of” in a few special places.

Indeed there’s but one Chez Panisse, but the finest and freshest seasonal ingredients culled by successors are a gourmet challenge

47

FOR ONE OF THE BEST FREE ART SHOWS IN THE WORLD, ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS LOOK UP.

BY SHIRA LEVINE

hile strolling the industrial-hip streets of Oahu's Kaka'ako District in search of a cup of coffee, I come upon a familiar face and stop in my tracks. Before me is a portrait of a man, classic but for the fact that the magnificent painting stretches across the entire facade of a building on the unassuming corner of Ward Avenue and Kapiolani. I learn later that it’s titled Hapa, which in Hawaiian means “part” and refers to anyone with a mixed ethnic background. The artist, Kamea Hadar, is an Israeli/Japanese painter raised in Hawaii and schooled in Paris at the Sorbonne. The hapa man is President Barack Obama (who went to high school just three miles from this very location).

"President Obama is a symbol of someone who is hapa; he represents the philosophy and the beauty of not only being mixed race, but promoting racial equality," says Hadar, also a co-creator of the annual international public art event Pow!Wow! “Public art is as important as a project that hangs in a museum for hundreds of years. Art can be impermanent and still important. We don’t need to hold on to it forever. The sun damages public art; it fades. When people realize that they start to pay attention.”

Corporate, government and nonprofit-sponsored urban frescoes are frequently commissioned to fine artists. Post-industrial cities like Detroit, Baltimore and Pittsburgh are home to murals spon-

From top: Mural by Os Gemeos on the Bowery in NYC. LA street scene.

Artwork in Valparaíso, Chile.

48

IMAGES BY SHIRA LEVINE

art

OUTDOOR RENAISSANCE

sored by banks and retail chains aiming to brighten neighborhood blight through local art and culture. Not that the clandestine installation of self-expression has ceased. The work of Shepard Fairey and Brazilian twins Os Gemeos couldn’t be so commonly appreciated without the (in their time) renegade installations by Keith Haring, Kobra and JR, who then paved the way for Swoon and Banksy.

Commissioned or not, art in public spaces often challenges, enlightens and reflects counterculture ideas and emotions, giving voice to the ignored, illustrating history and tradition, and inspiring conversation among community members and tourists alike.

“Works that exist outside the traditional museum context are no longer precious, contained, bound by the space of the museum or the physicality of the frame,” says Lizy Dastin of the Mural Conservancy of Los Angeles. “They become a natural extension of everyday life, rather than a cultural break from it. This physical accessibility regarding space is attractive.

Street art is becoming more participatory. The artists themselves are accessible on social media, giving viewers the opportunity to engage with them directly.”

Our favorite destinations for haute graffiti? New York City never disappoints. Urban art aficionados also treasure Philadelphia, the birthplace of outdoor expression. San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New Orleans, Seattle, DC and Austin are also home to some spectacular curbside fine art—worthy of attention beyond an Instagram selfie, and free to discover solo, with the help of an app, or, in some communities, on guided walking and biking tours.

sports

ALAN ARLT WANTS TO BRING OUT THE CARMELO ANTHONY IN ALL OF US. BY DANIEL A. GROSSMAN

PLAYING WITH PASSION What life lessons can young people learn from basketball?

he idea for Ultimate Hoops, a recreational basketball league where each player is treated like a professional, came from Alan Arlt’s personal passion for the sport. He founded the league in 2006; in 2008 he sold it to Lifetime Fitness and in 2014 introduced training products. It is currently in 24 markets, making it the largest recreational b-ball league in the country. Here, we speak to Arlt about his dream.

I think two key values are determination and commitment. Our goal at Ultimate Hoops is to reinforce a “never retire” attitude and state of mind. It’s unfortunate that 70 percent of basketball players quit by age 13 and never play again. We believe it’s critical to keep players playing in order to maintain their lifelong passion for the game. A passion for basketball often leads to a passion for other positive pursuits in life.

What is your mission for Ultimate Hoops?

To instill passion and values, and improve basketball culture for the average fan. This includes creating stats and power rankings for each player.

What in your personal background inspired this dream?

I was born and raised in Minnesota, then moved to NY in my 20s. I grew up a Knicks fan, but the players who most influenced me include Larry Bird, Magic Johnson and Dennis Rodman (on the Pistons). I’m a big fan of Rodman for his heart and passion for the game. (I was never a Michael Jordan fan as he was the bitter archrival to my beloved Knicks.)

Who are the best NBA players today? The best role models?

In my opinion, the best players are LeBron James, Steph Curry, Klay Thompson and Carmelo Anthony. I’d have to say Anthony is also among the best role models for his vocal stance on social issues. Also in the role model category: Curry, Durant, Westbrook and Maya Moore (WNBA). All have core values similar to those at Ultimate Hoops.

50

What are the most exciting things going on at Ultimate Hoops?

In January 2016, we signed a partnership with NBRPA (National Basketball Retired Players Association). Our goal is to keep retired players involved in the game through speaking, training and other appearances. This past fall, we organized a media game at Sky Club in NYC featuring Carmelo Anthony and other retired NBA players.

In 2017 we’re sponsoring an Ultimate Tour featuring athletes with core values that reflect ours. We continue to be involved in numerous national corporate and red carpet events with models wearing basketball gear. We’re also involved with the Maya Moore/Ricky Rubio Academy. Moore has sponsored this all-day academy for three years and is actively involved with the campers there.

©2017 A Genesco Company

S P R I N G 2 017 M E N ’ S F O OT W E A R C O LLE CT I O N

LEWI S

wheels

LIVING THE FANTASY Many a young boy’s fantasy is to someday drive an exotic sports car to its limit, and the supercar star of these dreams is often a Lamborghini. I’m not a young boy, but I finally had the opportunity to make this goal a reality when I spent an incredible morning at Dream Racing, the five-star driving experience at Las Vegas Motor Speedway: the only track where you can get behind the wheel of a real racing Lamborghini, Ferrari or Porsche.

I was picked up by the Dream Racing van and taken to their facility at Las Vegas Motor Speedway, known as “The Diamond of the Desert.” After a brief tour I was escorted to a room where a series of simulators give participants an enhanced 3D view of the track. The realism was remarkable and the virtual drive around the track was valuable preparation for getting behind the wheel. I met my personal instructor and he guided me through the twists and turns of the simulator exactly as he would soon do from the literal passenger seat. The next step was to be fitted for a very impressive driving suit and prolevel helmet.

As my instructor and I approached the Lamborghini Huracán, I was full of anticipation, wondering what the V10 engine with 610 horsepower would feel like at full revs. The car is equipped with carbon ceramic brakes, so there was no doubt I would be able to slow down should I find myself in trouble. As I got strapped in and observed my surroundings, I felt as if I was entering the cockpit of a jet fighter.

Upon firing up the engine, I began to sense the potential of 600-

plus horsepower. I exited the pits, got on the throttle and felt the surge of power. As a 4x4, the Huracán took the corners with ease, encouraging me to increase my speed with each lap. My instructor and I were able to communicate clearly through the microphones in our helmets; he pointed out the fastest line through the corners and made other brilliant suggestions as we lapped the course. As we pulled into the pits, I thought it couldn’t get any better. But I didn’t yet know what Dream Racing had in mind for me to drive next.

We were then met by Dream Racing president Adriano de Micheli and marketing director Steve Jones. They asked me about my prior racing experiences and apparently felt satisfied I would be able to handle the Huracán Super Trofeo Racing Car. (I was scheduled to drive a Ferrari 458, which I was rather looking forward to, but de Micheli was prepared to offer me the ultimate.) As they rolled it in I was astounded and eager to get behind the wheel.

I was not disappointed. This is a machine with astonishing power and technology whose sole purpose is to dominate every race car in its class. The vehicle’s 5.2-liter V10 engine produces 612 horsepower at 8,250 RPM. With its 6-speed, 3-disc racing clutch and F1 paddle shift, the car catapults from 0 to 60 in 3 seconds. Its top speed is 205 MPH, but with traction control, ABS and 18” Pirelli P Zero racing slicks, the car still sticks through corners as if it were on rails.

For all you boys and girls who dream of supercars, the fantasy can be realized at Dream Racing in Las Vegas. (So keep feeding that piggy bank.)

52

IMAGES COURTESY OF DREAM RACING

A racing experience straight out of your wildest dreams. BY DAVID A. ROSE

11th annual

Thursday, April 20, 2017 6:30 to 9 p.m.

Rodes For Him and For Her 4938 Brownsboro Road

Fashion Food Wine Cocktails 2017 honoree: Betsy Barefoot

$50 pre-admission • $60 at the door $35 for young professionals (age 30 and under) The first 50 registrants to pay a special $135 admission price will receive an exclusive tote bag filled with beauty products and goodies.

RSVP by April 19 to (502) 629-1234 or NortonHealthcare.com/DerbyDivas.

Proceeds fund mammograms and other breast health services for underserved women through the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program, which is supported by the Norton Healthcare Foundation.

Ar

tw ork b

y Bo

b Stu

ecker

wine

SO YOU WANT TO BE A

SOMMELIER?

There’s more to it than drinking great wines… BY LESLEY RUBENSTEIN at New Orleans’ iconic Commander’s Palace, owned by the Brennan family. “We have an extensive wine program,” Davis says.

“Everyone can find something familiar here, but the real joy is to take guests on a journey that’s a little outside their comfort zone.”

The wine cellar complements the restaurant’s “haute Creole” cuisine and reflects Davis’ passion for rare and underrepresented wine, history and food. Wine enthusiasts have taken notice: for the last five years, Commander’s has been a recipient of The Wine Spectator Grand Award, widely perceived as the most prestigious recognition in the world of wine. In 2016, Commander’s was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for the best wine program in America; The Daily Meal named its wine list the best in the U.S. “Wine and food go hand in hand,” is Davis’ mantra. “Wine is very much part of the meal in flavor and texture.”

Commander’s has raised the staff’s level of wine knowledge by making the Court of Master Sommeliers Program mandatory for employees. Under Davis’ direction, 40 servers, plus managers, bartenders, kitchen staff, chefs and owners, passed the Introductory Course and Examination, the first level of the program. Twelve Certified Sommeliers, having attained the second level, walk the

t starts with a passion for wine, a love of learning and an ability to retain lots of details about grapes, geography, terroir, etc. It ultimately becomes a journey of research, deductive tastings, pairings, pourings and intense exams to finally become certified.

Master Sommelier Dan Davis took his first sip of alcohol in college and tried his first taste of wine at the encouragement of a friend at a local tavern. Today, he serves as the director of wine and spirits

Above, the wine room at Commander’s Palace. Below left, Master Sommelier Dan Davis.

54

Master Sommelier as a guest in an imaginary restaurant with an imaginary wine list. He or she can order any type of wine, and the candidate must know all about it. Candidates must also suggest wines for the guest’s hypothetical food order, conduct a mock service of a bottle of wine or Champagne, and serve an after-dinner drink.

“Being certified is a very real credential with value. Basically, the Court of Master Sommeliers is saying that if they were running a restaurant, they’d hire you as a sommelier.”

To take the Advanced Course, candidates must apply. They need a minimum of five years in the industry and must be accepted into the program, which provides a glimpse of what to expect from the third exam and, if invited, the fourth level: The Master Sommelier Diploma Exam. The process is difficult, and candidates spend years of grueling hours in preparation; only a small percentage eventually pass. Currently, there are only 125 men and 24 women in the U.S. who can call themselves Master Sommeliers.

The unique opportunities, however, make all the hard work worthwhile. “A highlight for me was being with seventh- or eighth-generation winemakers in Burgundy and having them pull a 1917 bottle out of a cave, where their great-grandfather had hidden it from the Nazis.

They popped it open, and we drank it, with much joy. It doesn’t get better than that.”

restaurant’s floors. Says Davis, “Education is the key to everything: it fosters a passion that the sommeliers bring to the customers. We’ve created a genuine wine culture.”

Davis says the training is critical to a restaurant’s success.

“Servers need to know the quality of the wine, and why it works in a specific context. They need to be able to pronounce vocabulary and feel comfortable talking about wine in a professional— but approachable and friendly—manner.”

The Introductory Class is a two-day course led by Master Sommeliers that culminates in an extensive exam. It’s allencompassing, covering everything important to know about wine. Students also practice blind tastings and serving, although these skills are not tested at this level.

“When I see my staff move from ‘Oh, I get to drink wine’ to ‘Oh, I get to sell this wine and provide an experience for the customer,’ I know the program has worked.”

The Certified Examination, the second level, requires students to engage in self-directed studies followed by a three-part exam that tests theory, tasting and service. “You walk into the room to find two glasses of wine: one red and one white. You have 25 minutes to taste the wines and tell the Master Sommelier what they are. Then you take an exam that is fairly grueling, much harder than level one.”

During the service portion of the exam, each candidate waits on a

CURRENTLY, THERE ARE ONLY 125 MEN AND 24 WOMEN IN THE U.S. WHO CAN CALL THEMSELVES MASTER SOMMELIERS.

GOOD. BETTER. PERFETTO. A DEMANDING SCHEDULE REQUIRES TROUSERS THAT PERFORM PERFETTO FROM HILTL MEANS ALL DAY COMFORT AND ALL DAY PERFECT SHAPE. AVAILABLE IN COTTON, WOOL & DENIM

55

Class

Learn to ignore changing fads and ace your look with updated classics.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

“YOU CAN’T BE SERIOUS,” responded my inner Little Lord Fauntleroy to the magazine my wife thrust in front of me.

It was filled with images of spring men’s fashion, and breezy as it might be, it’s hard to visualize myself swooshing around in a Yohji Yamamoto men’s pleated skirt, or a tailored suit with shorts, or any of the attention-getting androgynous looks parading down today’s runways.

We men like to believe that our minds are occupied with loftier thoughts than deciphering fashion trends. Yet as much as we insist we don’t care about clothes, on some primal level we do.

Our end game is to stay relevant and not look like lost transports from forgotten decades. We’re living in the 21st century, and you’ve probably noticed menswear trending trimmer, Iconic style evolving with the times without pushing transcends time: Pierce Brosnan the envelope. It manages to be modern (1995) and Cary by incorporating innovative fabrics and Grant (1959) look tailoring techniques, so the new looks great in any era. are now as comfortable and easy-care as they are fashionable. In other words, today’s clothing will give you an enviable nonchalant style without drawing unwanted attention.

For while I don’t mind engaging in an occasional fashion conversation, I’m certainly not interested in being the conversation.

As Yves Saint Laurent noted, “Fashion fades, style is eternal.”

With that in mind, here are a few tips to achieve a winning look and up your style game.

• Buy investment pieces from timeless designers like Canali, Zegna and Brunello Cucinelli. They’re on top for a reason: you can’t go wrong with quality tailoring and enduring style.

• Owning a versatile sport coat is mandatory. Think of it as the Swiss Army knife of your wardrobe. Comfortable, well tailored, lightweight and easy to dress up or down for any occasion. Let it become your go-

to piece for spring 2017. Try Canali’s Kei jacket or a soft coat from Zegna or Samuelsohn. You’ll see the light. Throw it on over anything and immediately feel confident.

• Fitted shirts will make you look 10 years younger. If you’re hard to fit, custom is a great option (and it won’t break the bank).

• Never undervalue the importance of accessories. Without throwing your world off its axis, you can upgrade any look with something as simple as a printed pocket square, a great belt, fun socks or standout shoes.

• Give your wardrobe a fresh look by mixing it up. Pair your dress shoes with jeans and try leather or suede sneakers with your suit. Wear your go-to sport coat with either jeans or dress pants. As Luciano Barbera explains it, “Dress up your sportswear and dress down your formalwear.”

• Explore spring’s many alternatives to denim: five-pocket pants in lightweight stretch fabrics that fit and feel terrific. Yes, blues and tans are forever, but why not consider a pair in a more interesting shade (or pattern)?

• Take advantage of our well-curated assortments and knowledgeable sellers. Their suggestions will open your eyes to new clothes that might just get you excited about menswear again.

56

TOP:JOHN STODDART/GETTY IMAGES; SUNSET BOULEVARD/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES

first person

Fashion

RODES FORUM SS 2017