Rodes

Forum/The Substance of Style/Spring 2012

R od e s THE JACKET AN INDISPENSABLE FINISHING TOUCH

FASHION AND FANTASY

DESERT DREAMS

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Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) www.rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

FEATURES 3

Welcome Letter

4

Happenings

52 Retailing: The Soul of a Merchant 72 Escapes: Star Treatment

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

FASHION 13 The Right Track for Spring 33 Ladies Accessories: Post Parade 34 Style: Discover Your Inner Italian 42 Profile: Samuelsohn 48 Suiting: Tailored to Perfection 54 A Walk in the Walled City 62 The Jacket 70 No Black Shoes

DEPARTMENTS 38 Ask Jim

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 12 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175;

40 Ask Susan

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welcome

THE STAGE IS SET

Pictured above are the people you see when you shop with us, your first point of contact. Our starring cast! These professionals strive to give you an oasis in life. A place to have some fun and get a respite from the world. They wake up every day to be the best they can and make your life a little better.

Behind the scenes this troupe has daily huddles to discuss how to best serve you. We share customer service stories, best practices and information about new products and upcoming events at Rodes.

On March 17th we celebrate our 98th Anniversary, the same day as the Rodes City Run which benefits the Crusade for Children. The reason we get to enjoy that milestone is because of you. We strive every day to give you the finest shopping experience and products the world has to offer. Our cast of characters stands ready to serve!

See you around town‌ Susan and Howard Vogt

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HAPPENINGS

TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

@ RODES & AROUND TOWN

TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

GENTLEMEN’S NIGHT @ RODES FOR HIM

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HAPPENINGS

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GILDA’S NIGHT @ RODES 11.11.11

TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

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TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

CUSTOMER APPRECIATION DAY @ RODES

TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

T H E

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TRUNK SHOWS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!

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H i g h l a n d C l e a n e r s. c o m

Photography by Eric Williams Hair & Makeup by Nick Carter, Joseph’s Salon & Spa

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WHAT'S YOUR BEST SUIT

WHEN YOU SADDLE UP

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KATE WINSLET

Experience the whole story at DISCOVERSTJOHN. COM

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IN THE 1960s film La Dolce Vita, main character Marcello Rubini (played to perfection by Marcello Mastroianni) wears a series of form-fitting two-button suits featuring curvaceous lapels, soft natu-

34

ral shoulders and cigarette-cut slacks. When not wearing a shirt and tie, he opts for Johnny collar knit shirts accented with a scarf or ascot, casually knotted at the neck in a way only the most debonair Italian men are capable of pulling off with effectiveness.

No one ever second guesses the character’s (supposedly a journalist) sense of style. Forget the fact that no American journalist— except the occasional fashion editor or perhaps the novelist Tom Wolfe—dresses with such unabashed sartorial flair. In Italy, whether students, statesmen or street sweepers, most men naturally possess a sense of chic that eludes the rest of us.

Italians grow up in a culture where sartorial style is taken for granted. “We have a native predisposition for elegance and style, a characteristic that has been developed and improved upon over time,” explains Elisabetta Canali, scion of the Canali clothing family.

“Good taste and savoir faire are just a part of the Italian culture.”

By way of tailors (found on every street corner), Italian men learn about fine fabrics, the importance

IMAGE BY MICHAEL POLIZA PHOTOGRAPHY

DISCOVER YOUR INNER ITALIAN

PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO / TOMMY TON

style

DRESS LIKE YOU WERE BORN INTO LA DOLCE VITA.

BY WILLIAM KISSEL

of a razor-sharp fit and how to mix and match shirts, ties and accessories. Moreover, through experience and experimentation they discover that a suit with a high armhole isn’t necessarily tight and uncomfortable—just the opposite, in fact. Most important, they train

gance, sophistication and timeless style are always better than of-themoment trends, which will date the wearer,” offers Giorgio Armani.

“As for style, a two-button suit is more timeless than a three- or a one-button. A single-breasted is more versatile than double, allowing you to dress your suit up or down more freely and use the jacket as a separate more easily.”

Finally, says Mr. Armani, “Confidence and a sense of humor make a man sexy.”

Dressing like an Italian is about discovering a sense of balance, proportion, color and pattern. One can begin to develop Italian-esque style with a few simple tricks: • Wear dark sunglasses, Mastroianni style, in any weather.

• Don loafers without socks.

• Drape and loosely knot a colorful sweater over your shoulders.

• Carry an oversized bag across your chest.

• Secure your necktie with a knot large enough to land a small plane on.

• Add a notice-me belt (white is an option even in winter) to bring a touch of panache to your jeans.

• Wear a coordinating top coat over your suit or sportcoat.

and flat-front trousers. He also recommends brown suede shoes with most outfits to give your look a sporty yet sophisticated edge.

The Cucinelli formula is equally distinctive: trim-cut gray flannel slacks or jeans, a knit shirt and/or pullover sweater, and a gray cashmere blazer with suede elbow patches and a turned up collar.

Since Armani invented his slouchy suits in the ’80s, few designers until Cucinelli have seen their “look” adopted by such an eclectic assortment of men—from the 70year-old businessman to the 25year-old college student.

“I think it’s very important how we put things together,” says Cucinelli, one of the few Italian designers who espouses facial hair with his cashmere blazers. “I like to show clothing, even tailored pieces, in a sporty chic way that is ageless.

Because when I’m 50 years old, like everyone else, I want to look younger,” adds the designer (who claims to be 49, despite what it says on his birth certificate).

Cucinelli designs each piece so it can be worn on its own and in a variety of ways. “A 25-year-old man is not going to wear a classic pinstripe suit,” he says, suggesting

“ELEGANCE, SOPHISTICATION AND TIMELESS STYLE ARE ALWAYS BETTER THAN OF-THE-MOMENT TRENDS.”—GIORGIO ARMANI themselves not to be afraid of color for fear of being bullied or judged. Just as “it is important for men to choose the right silhouette in order to feel most comfortable, it is equally important to work with color to give each outfit some excitement,” adds Canali.

“A man should look for a suit he can wear, and not a suit that will wear him. In other words, ele-

• Consider flat-front red pants or white jeans.

If you’re worried about remembering these rules, turn to a designer collection, like Luciano Barbera or Brunello Cucinelli, for inspiration that can help make the process a bit easier. Barbera prefers a bit of formality in his check cashmere sportcoats, worn with crisp cotton shirts, wool ties

36

that a tailored gray cashmere blazer over khakis or jeans can be equally elegant, depending on the man wearing it.

Bottom line: open your mind and experiment with your wardrobe to find your perfect style. After all, you may be able to afford a Gucci suit or Prada loafers, but that cash register receipt doesn’t come with a diploma in style.

ASKJIM

SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

Q:

I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?

Q:

What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current for spring/summer 2012?

Q:

My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the same suits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?

Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style.

Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a balanced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, twobuttons are in and pleated pants are out!

The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea to invest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construction and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights your shape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speed with updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick up a few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins the silhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.

Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way to update is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright colors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or soft coats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few times for relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with ones that are fit to be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani.

The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers that flip-flops are strictly for the beach, but deck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers are always safe bets, too.

Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to 8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Midweight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regularweight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabric types are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersucker in lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannel in darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.

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History can repeat itself.

It can also top itself.

It is more than the next 911. It is an articulation, from the ground up, or our vision for the future of the sports car. As evidenced by even more power from even less fuel. 400 immensely powerful horses from a 3.8 liter engine in the Carrera S. A longer wheelbase for added stability. and a new elevated center console that reinforces our focus on the driver. Proving once again that despite over 60 years of making history, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s making history. and it all starts with a test drive.

The next Porsche 911.

Forever the sports car.

502-894-3428 4720 Bowling Blvd Louisville, KY 40207 porsche.bluegrassauto.com

ASKSUSAN

SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HER

Q:

It seems that prints are everywhere, but I’ve never considered myself a “prints person.” Help!

Q:

What can I do to add some more visual interest to an all-white outfit?

Q:

Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can I translate the look for real life?

From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offering all manner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’s something out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way to introduce them into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic dress or blouse.

There are no hard and fast rules, so the most important thing is to come in and start trying things on! Don’t discount anything until you see how it looks on you. We promise to help you find a pretty print you can wear with confidence, and put the spring back in your step this season.

If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few months out of the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light colored—fashions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add both newness and longevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (bright white, cream and taupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroidery and knit). This look is all about approachability and ease, so try a loose, sheer blouse over a georgette cami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunky cardigan. And don’t forget to carefully consider your undergarments, the literal foundation for any successful white ensemble.

Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll be remiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if you try it on and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is all about proportion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked to flatter your particular shape. Working with your associate is key: she can point you toward the pieces that will work for you, help you decide what alterations to make, and suggest the perfect footwear to complete the look.

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DESIGNED BY EDWARD WILKERSON

LAFAYETTE148NY.COM

profile

SAMUELSOHN:

NEVER COMPROMISE OLD WORLD QUALITY, MODERN STYLE.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

ounded in 1923, Samuelsohn is a Montreal-based clothing company with a reputation for excellence based on fine tailoring, luxury fabrics, unusual attention to detail and modern style.

For Samuelsohn, fine tailoring means fully-basted canvas construction: there is no glue in the interlinings of their suits, so that the garment maintains its shape, fit and comfort even after repeated cleanings. Their luxury fabrics are from the best mills in Italy and England, featuring cashmere, camel hair, superfine wools, Pima cotton, Italian silk and precious fibers like vicuna and yangir.

Hand-tailored details include Bemberg linings, corozo or horn buttons, silk threads and labels, and Italian cotton pocketing.

But perhaps Samuelsohn’s real secret weapon is its designer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, who grew up working for his family’s clothing company in Montreal before launching his own in the late 1990s.

Respected as one of the most talented designers in the industry, he’s also known for his dapper per-

sonal style. Here, we speak with him about tailored clothing, and about what makes a well-dressed man.

What’s so special about a Samuelsohn suit?

It’s about hand-craftsmanship: each suit takes six and a half hours of labor, more than many of the well-known designer brands that are almost twice the price.

Are they made totally by hand?

No. If we could automate it all, we would. But there are several processes a machine can’t duplicate: the handbasting, the handsewn armholes, the shoulder. Certain steps can be automated and you won’t see the difference, but others cannot. Most importantly, technol-

42

Samuelsohn designer Arnold Brant Silverstone

ogy has not been able to duplicate a full canvas garment. Cheaper suits look okay on a hanger since the shape comes from pressing.

But after dry cleaning, that shape is gone.

Your suits are known for a certain “expression”—what does this mean?

It means the garments are not flat: there’s a certain dimension, a softness, a sexiness. After all, the human body is not flat, so a welltailored suit should also have shape and dimension.

What should guys look for when buying a suit?

The most important thing is fit: when you put on the garment, it should make you look better. A well-tailored suit hides myriad imperfections and moves with you.

The shoulders should be on you, not out to there. Today, men are wearing suits closer to the body, but that shouldn’t mean you lose comfort. It’s like driving a great sports car and really feeling the road. When you wear a quality suit, it moves with you.

How can guys look elegant when they’re not wearing suits?

The biggest problem is when men equate casual with not caring, with

Bond, the Kennedys, Cary Grant, George Clooney… However casual the look, it was well thought-out, not thrown together, reflecting their personal style.

What are the key items a man should have for spring/summer 2012?

1) A great summer suit, maybe a tropical wool in British tan or dove gray. 2) A performance blazer or suit, either with high-twist yarns or some Lycra. Most guys these days are traveling or on the move but there’s no reason not to look crisp…

3) A cool outerwear piece: something reversible or with interior pockets or truly transitional and multi-functional. 4) A soft coat.

We’re famous for ours: they look tailored but weigh next to nothing.

What’s the secret of success for a clothing manufacturer?

Passion! I’ve been doing this for more than 20 years; I inherited the passion from my parents. But in addition to passion, one needs a spirit of innovation. We’re on top of the latest fabrics, fits, technologies. We’re always pushing the envelope, never satisfied with the status quo. We want the customer to say “WOW!” every time he puts on one of our garments. That’s my passion, and my mission.

CLOTHING THAT’S SPECIAL, WITH THE FOCUS ON FIT, QUALITY AND ELEGANCE. throwing on jeans and a T-shirt.

The best-dressed men put thought into dressing: casual might mean beautifully tailored cotton pants and a soft jacket or a lightweight knit cashmere sweater or a cool reversible outerwear piece. Think back to the best-dressed men over the decades: The Rat Pack, James

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How would you describe your own personal style?

I like to look contemporary: not blending in with the crowd but not blatantly standing out. I like clothing that’s special, with the focus on fit, quality and elegance. That’s the way I like to dress and the kind of clothing I love to design!

PICK A WINNER! INVITES YOU TO THE

Winning Looks DERBY EVENT

CaloSpa Rejuvenation Center is the perfect venue for a stylish evening dedicated to helping you prepare for the Derby season. Enjoy spirits and hors d’oeuvres with local boutiques modeling stunning and inspirational fashions.

A stylist will be on hand to help you finesse your personal look and a milliner will be available to pick the perfect hat to compliment your attire. Also, learn from Calospa’s specialists about the Trifecta and Exacta pre-Derby facial treatments.

We hope you’ll join us for this spectacular event. Space is limited. MUST be on RSVP list at door. RSVP by visiting www.calospa.com/winninglooks or call 502.899.9982.

CALL OR CHECK OUR WEBSITE FOR DATE AND TIME.

RELAX. REJUVENATE. RENEW. 502.814.3000 | 2341 Lime Kiln Lane, Louisville, KY | www.calospa.com Find us on

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suiting

TAILORED TO PERFECTION

100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETS MODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

RMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring 2012 is an

Zegna suits in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun.

exquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say, took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just in time for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniversary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waist and natural, semi-constructed shoulders.

Like all Zegna suits this season, the new Milano, available in both single and doublebreasted, is interpreted in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun, with an everso-slight sheen reminiscent of sharkskin clothing from the 1950s.

But the Milano is tailored with a decidedly modern sensibility. The jacket is cut slightly shorter and features just a hint more interior canvas—as many as three layers— for structure, yet the finished garment remains remarkably lightweight. The defining element is the barchetta, or boat-shaped breast pocket, a sewing detail that can only be achieved by hand.

Initially a cloth producer and later a suit and sportswear maker, Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) has perfected the art of lighter-than-air suit making like no other designer label in history.

The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand not only constructs all of its own suits in factories around the world (prompting the company to introduce the slogan ‘Made in Zegna’), but the family-owned company

48

has pioneered everything from the technically advanced fabrics used to make its suits to the su mesura, or made-to-measure, concept often employed to sell them.

W

HAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-

cially the made-to-measure variety—can only be answered by slipping into one. Each piece is a labor of love tailored to your exact specifications, in the fabric of your choice. You can select the number of pockets, the direction of the pleats on your trousers and even the buttons and whether or not they work. Moreover, it will be made with such attention to detail that your every physical anomaly— from sloping shoulders and a thrown back to a hollow chest or an enlarged abdomen—is actually masked by the finished garment.

(Buying one of these suits is a far better option than going under the doctor’s knife.) You may never need to visit your tailor again.

“By the time a made-to-measure suit is complete over 500 hands will have touched it and more than 7,000 hand stitches will have been used to create it,” explains image director Anna Zegna.

Zegna workers have a hand in every step, from shearing the sheep through the processing of the fiber into yarn (and then fine fabrics), to the cutting and sewing of every jacket using a combination of modern machinery and hand finishing.

“The perfect fit of a Zegna suit comes from constructing it with 100 pieces; the lining alone comprises 12 separate components,” adds Zegna. After each piece is precision cut, it passes through the hands of hundreds of tailors, whose singular purpose is to turn

THE SECRET of a Zegna suit isn’t just the meticulous way it’s put together, but the innovative cloth used to make it. The company’s founder and namesake, Ermenegildo Zegna, began as a fabric maker in 1910 with the creation of a natural wool weighing roughly 350 grams per square meter, considered featherweight by early 20th-century standards.

Today, most Zegna fabrics weigh in at a fraction of that and include such technical advances as Trofeo, a worsted wool made of prestige Australian superfine merino wool with long fibers for added strength and resiliency, and the latest 13milmil13, a vicuna-like fabric made from

merino yarns measuring less than 13 microns. (To appreciate how exceptional this is, one need only reflect on the fact that a human hair measures roughly 50 to 60 microns.) The development of such fine micron wools is the result of Zegna’s 1963 initiative, the Vellus Aureum trophy, which motivates and awards Australia and New Zealand’s sheep farmers who produce these ultra-fine wools.

Pioneering fabrics for spring include Zero Weight, a blend of superfine merino wool and silk with a yarn count of 600—the finest silk quality in the world.

The company is also moving forward with last year’s Cool Effect, in which fine Australian

one-dimensional pieces of cloth into a three-dimensional garment worthy of the most discriminating clientele. The waistband, fly and belt loops on a pair of trousers can require more than 20 workers, and it takes the efforts of another 24 tailors to construct the sleeves of a jacket; nearly 190 sewers are involved in creating the body of a single jacket. Even the act of sewing a simple buttonhole “can take an eternity of careful cutting and stitching,” says Zegna.

Once the fabric has been cut, corresponding pieces are carefully

50

wool is finished to enable dark fabrics to reflect heat like lightcolored ones. The result: a cloth that keeps the wearer 10 degrees cooler than if he were wearing an untreated fabric.

“Fabric represents Zegna’s heritage and it’s the primary focus of our innovation,” says Anna Zegna, noting that the brand offers more than 700 cloth options, including 200 new fabrics each season, as part of its made-to-measure suit service.

Over the course of the company’s 100-year history, “Zegna has invented over 20 unique and innovative fabrics in various colors, patterns and textures, which have become staples of our collection.”

bundled and passed down to the tailors and sewers to construct the garment, which can take as long as four days to wind its way through the 110-step production cycle.

Upon completion each suit undergoes an arduous pressing process performed by dozens of workers: six to press the slacks and another 22 to press and hand-iron the jacket before it receives its final inspection. If the finished garment meets the company’s lofty standards, it is literally given the Zegna seal of approval as the signature logo is sewn in place.

JEWELS OF THE CROWN...

Whether you’re going for the roses or the entire Triple Crown, Orlanda has the perfect accessories for your day at the track.

Orlanda likes designing with colorful precious and semi-precious stones, each hand selected for their brilliance. She crafts her jewelry using the finest of materials. Her jewelry was chosen by the Platinum Guild for the “Red Carpet” at the Golden Globe Awards. Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection exclusively at Rodes For Her.

DESIGNED BY

W W W. O R L A N D A O L S E N . C O M

you’re likely a customer of one of the finest specialty stores in America, run by one of the nation’s top merchants. In today’s highly competitive retail environment, how do these independents compete with stores many times their size? Bottom line, it’s talent, taste, passion, promotion, business savvy, extraordinary service and lots of hard work! Here, we speak with a few star merchants in the Forum store group (a coalition of America’s top specialty apparel stores) to learn what drives them.

Theorizes John Malouf of Malouf’s in Lubbock, Texas: “We’ve survived by featuring only the best product in each category, and by teaching customers how great they can look in the right clothes.”

Adds John Braeger of Garys in Newport Beach, California, “Our secret is buyers who live in the community so they really know their customers: their interests, tastes and lifestyles…

Our mix is always on target because our merchants personally know who’s buying it.”

NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN THESE MULTI-TALENTED SPECIALTY MERCHANTS. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Braeger also points out that independents are more willing to take risks than stores that are publicly owned. “We buy smaller quantities with more selection, so you’re less likely to see someone in town wearing the same thing. Our goal is to please customers, not shareholders…”

On the mis-

52

conception that clothing costs more in independent stores, Malouf is adamant. “We never charge more! Our prices are based on typical industry margins, but we give customers so much more than great fashion.” Extras include closet makeovers, expert alterations, wardrobe consulting, extended hours, e-mailed photos of new products as they arrive, rush delivery and many other personalized services.

What’s more, independent merchants often buy designer brands differently than the big stores, working personally with the designers to develop exclusives and fine-tune assortments. Explains Bob White of Hubert White in Minneapolis, “Our advantage is knowing who we’re buying for and combining that personal knowl-

GETTY 1 ELDER GALVÃO

retailing IF YOU’RE READING THIS MAGAZINE,

THE SOUL OF A MERCHANT

edge with trends in the market. It’s this mix of client and product expertise that separates us from our larger competitors.”

Obviously top merchants travel far and wide to find exclusive product: many take eight to 10 trips a year. Says Braeger, “I’d say I spend half the year buying, the other half doing everything else.”

Adds Malouf, “We travel regularly to NYC, Dallas, Vegas and Italy, where we work directly with the designers. To me, designing beautiful clothes is analogous to an artist who paints or a musician who composes: it’s creating something of beauty and lasting value.”

On a more pragmatic note, Wally Naymon from Kilgore Trout in Cleveland points out that by shopping at locally owned specialty stores rather than national chains, 80 percent of the money

spent stays in the community. But more importantly, says Naymon, independent retailers are more interested in developing long-term relationships than in making the immediate sale (vs. publicly held companies that are pressured to meet

“STORES THAT SURVIVE ARE CLEARLY THE BEST OF THE BEST.” monthly goals). “We’re in it for the long haul,” says Naymon.

Howard Vogt of Rodes in Louisville says, “We carry only the best labels, and then tweak assort-

Incotex and the other brands of the Slowear group - Montedoro, Zanone and Glanshirt - have made specialization their credo, to give life to garments with a modern, unique and timeless style.

ments to our customers’ lifestyles, our climate, regional events like The Kentucky Derby, etc. It’s a very personalized mix you can’t get in the big department stores.”

Craig Andrisen, co-owner of Andrisen Morton in Denver, believes it’s all about relationships.

He points out that “employees who are respected, rewarded and well cared for treat their customers the same way.” Adds his business partner Dave Morton, “Our philosophy of business is simple: ‘Never say no, always say yes, then go figure it out.’ Exceptional service is always the ultimate goal.”

Sums up Bob Mitchell of Mitchells, Richards, Marsh’s and Wilkes Bashford: “Our personalized approach to everything we do, from buying to marketing to service, allows us to give customers more without costing them more.”

HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING

SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT

ASBA

PHOTOGRAPHY

a walk in the walled city

The ancient Moroccan city of Aït Benhaddou – formerly a caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, and location for the film Lawrence of Arabia – provides the perfect canvas for the bold, romantic and timeless looks of spring 2012...

citrus anD spice | strong solids | pops of pink

THIS PAGE

Dress by Lela Rose.

OPPOSITE PAGE

Shirt by Isaia,

romantic prints | subtle checks | bold stripes

YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...

The Jacket THE ULTIMATE FINISHING TOUCH AND THE KEY TO A WELL-DRESSED MAN

Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket.

A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential finishing touch for a put-together casual look.

Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfinished, lacking in style and sophistication.

This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and

styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fiber” designed to beat the heat, a couple of great jackets can complete any look.

And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis—even your favorite shorts!

MEMORABLE!

JACKET 101: THE EASIEST WAY TO ADD STYLE AND ELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUAL EVERYDAY LOOK

FORGETTABLE

SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON OR CASHMERE...A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCE AND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.

MEMORABLE!

DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF THINKING THAT JUST BECAUSE IT'S WARM YOU DON’T NEED A JACKET!

FORGETTABLE

The Ermenegildo Zegna 10-Pocket Blazer

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THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE TRAVELS LIKE A PRO AND TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.

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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC. STYLING: WENDY MCNETT FOR AGENT OLIVER. GROOMING: TREVOR BOWDEN FOR BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI

JACKET NOT OPTIONAL: A MERE SHIRT AND TIE MAY BE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.

world scene

THE ART OF STYLE

L

e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a very fashionable hotel. Between rushing out to glamorous appointments, modish guests dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long for cocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend by Clarins (which has the longest indoor pool in Paris). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers.

Paintings, drawings and photography exhibitions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere.

There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Garden in Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le Royal Monceau is also home to the city’s first art concierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treasures and organizes excursions, such as a visit to contemporary art galleries in the Marais and St. Germain areas, or a private viewing of the Henri Matisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, home is where the art is.

BAYEUX TOURIST OFFICE

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

UN JOUR EN NORMANDIE

T

he lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape layered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and artifacts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers of Louis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italianstyle gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a family estate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm, where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.

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Quality is Always Fashionable

A

LGO

q&a

A Q & A WITH JIM PORTER ABOUT HIS PERSONAL STYLE AND WHY HE’S KNOWN FOR WEARING...

‘‘NO BLACK SHOES’’ DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL STYLE. Well I’m a Southern boy, so I have very traditional roots. But as a buyer in the fashion business, I try to spice it up with a more modern flair. Flat-front trousers, a trimmer fit in suits and jackets and a contemporary fit in shirts have produced a fresh look in men’s fashion that I’m really enjoying. I also use accessories to add some individuality. An unexpected tie, belt or pair of shoes can transform an outfit. I love being teased because I never wear black shoes.

WHY NO BLACK SHOES? There are just so many shades of brown and tan that really complement everything, from denim to the most serious dark suit, that to wear black just looks uninteresting. There are also some great shades of gray, beige and even blue shoes showing up for the more daring customer.

Although I do always wear black shoes with a tux.

WHAT’S IT LIKE WORKING AT RODES? Rodes is a really fascinating business. No two days are the same!

Every week you meet a new face…it’s such a pleasure. Then we have people who have shopped with us for years…they’re more than customers; they’re great friends, and part of the Rodes family.

I buy for the mens department, so I’m fortunate enough to be involved in the whole business process. It starts in New York and Italy, where I view designer collections at market, and ends with seeing those collections displayed on the selling floor each season. I love both the business and creative qualities of this career.

The real passion for me comes from working with our fantastic staff and seeing our customers excited about their purchases. A return visit is the highest compliment we can receive. That’s really what it’s all about!

ANY FAVORITE TREND FOR SPRING? I love the unstructured sportcoat or “soft coat”. It’s so versatile, you can dress it up with trousers, or dress it down with jeans and a cool shirt or knit. Add in a pocket square and enjoy the compliments! This is a look every well-dressed guy should have.

The biggest trend in menswear is self expression.

Personally I think menswear has never looked better or been more enjoyable to wear. You can do what you want. No rules! And I’m glad to say our customers are embracing a whole new way of dressing and looking great…and wearing brown shoes!

“THOUGH NOT MY THING, BLACK SHOES WILL ALWAYS BE IN STYLE. HOWEVER, THERE’S BEEN A SHIFT…NOW MANY MEN BUY MORE BROWN THAN BLACK, WHILE IT USED TO BE THE REVERSE.” —JIM PORTER MEN’S BUYER

escapes

Star

BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

TREATMENT

THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friends

gathering around a campfire, slumbering under the stars—appeals to almost everyone. Sleeping on the ground, dirt-speckled food and primitive bathroom facilities do

not. Fortunately, enterprising camp creators are removing much of the uncomfortable stuff from a stay in the great outdoors, preserving all the good and adding even more incentives. Glam camping, or

T 72

“glamping” as it’s now called, has spread around the world.

The Clayoquot Wilderness Resort is located on the west coast of Vancouver Island (reachable by boat or sea plane). Here,

Below: Sleep under the stars in the Sabi Sands region of South Africa.

Blue Grass Knows Roads.

Rodes Knows Clothes.

IMAGE COPYRIGHT © ABERCROMBIE & KENT

Above, left: Abercrombie & Kent’s Sahara Desert Camp Right: The Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia

The Resort at Paws Up, located on 37,000 acres along the Blackfoot River near Missoula, Montana, offers a range of yearround activities: 120 miles of designated hiking and riding trails, fly-fishing, whitewater rafting, cross-country skiing, and more.

Recently, Paws Up has opened their most luxurious tented accommodations ever. Set on a bluff overlooking the Blackfoot River and Elk Creek, Pinnacle Camp has one- and two-bedroom suites with climate controls, jetted tubs in the ensuite bathrooms and

decks with river views. There’s even a personal “camping butler.”

If you want to go off by yourself, boutique adventure company Global Expeditions, Inc. offers private custom excursions.

This company doesn’t have a fixed location or standard pack-

cious Caidal tent.

Then there’s Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia, located in Tatai, next to the Thai border between Bangkok and Phnom Penh. There are 12 tented villas, each with a flat-screen TV, mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trek

age. Instead, an area is leased exclusively for you and a luxury tented camp is created. Global will fly in a chef from anywhere in the world, and cater to your whims with yoga masters, masseurs and estheticians, or authorities on geology, ecology and astronomy.

For stargazers, there are several other options. Abercrombie & Kent will arrange for you to explore the mysterious Sahara Desert. After a tour of the area (including Berber villages and the Atlas Mountains) guests set off across the desert for a four-wheel drive to the camp, situated in a remote area overlooking the Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s a sunset camel ride through the Sahara’s dazzling expanse, followed by a Moroccan dinner, traditional entertainment and a spa-

into the jungle to explore one of the world’s largest rainforests, kayak down river, fish, or perhaps stop off for a natural hydro massage in the Tatai Waterfalls.

At the end of the day, you can relax on your private sun-lounger balcony for a cocktail.

If you want to get away from (and above) it all, Lion World Tours, specializing in trips to southern and eastern Africa, can arrange for you to stay in a treehouse. In the Sabi Sands region of South Africa, an astonishing bedroom has been built around a majestic 500-yearold Leadwood tree. Guests are taken to the camp at sunset to gaze out over the plains while enjoying Champagne and local delicacies, before turning in on lavish linens in complete privacy… and, naturally, sleeping under the stars.

IMAGE BY FLOATING ECO-LODGE CAMBODIA

guests who love the great outdoors can hike, fish, or climb to a treetop observation platform to view one of the oldest temperate rainforests in the world, then “fly” over the forest via a 285 meterlong flight line. For those who prefer less strenuous exploits, Clayoquot offers wine tastings, spa tents and library tents with an internet café. And the accommodations will surely attract the luxury-loving camper. Tents reminiscent of those used in 19th-century great safari camps have king beds with down duvets, antique dressers and tea tables, Persian carpets, working bathrooms and heated floors. There are even bathrobes and turndown service.

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SPRING 2012 We made Bills better by not changing a thing.

Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.

end page

PULL IT TOGETHER!

THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE DETAILS.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER ■

Socks should match the trouser, rather than the shoe. (But a little whimsy on the feet is acceptable, as is going sans socks in summer.)

■ More than anything else you wear, your tie expresses your personality.

Make sure it’s current (three and a half inches, narrower if you’re a rock star) and make sure it’s interesting.

Even casual outfits, including jeans, go up a notch with the right neckwear: try a knit or linen tie, or a subtle conversational.

■ Keep your eyewear current. Bring along a friend when you select new glasses and make sure the frames complement your face shape and features. (Bold frames are of the moment, but only if they look good on you!)

■ A handkerchief in your sportcoat pocket adds a touch of elegance.

So there it is. Without threatening my masculinity, the simple act of coordinating a suede belt with my suede bucks has instilled newfound confidence. And now that I’m taking a few minutes each morning to accessorize, my life is changing for the better. My girlfriend seems happy to see me. My colleagues are showing respect. Who knew life could be so simple? My patronizing friend even picked up the check at our most recent lunch outing.

76

ZEGNA

row up,” my fashionable friend sneered over his ceviche, with one eyebrow raised. “You look disheveled, kind of a mess…”

“What are you talking about?” I demanded, feeling very sartorially appropriate in trim khakis and a crisp blue oxford shirt.

“Your outfit!” he dispatched with disdain. “It’s dull and uncoordinated.

It makes you look dated. And clueless!” Requesting specifics about my fashion transgressions, I was told that, for one thing, my belt and shoes had nothing in common.

“The belt’s at my waist, the shoes are on my feet: what do they need in common?” I wondered aloud.

But after a quick self-assessment, I had to admit that my friend was right.

Despite owning plenty of quality clothes, some with designer labels, I never seemed to look quite right.

Clearly, my image was far less cool and far more boring than most of the guys in that trendy restaurant.

Time to consult the experts.

Here’s what I learned: ■ When it comes to accessories, buy the best you can afford. When the accessories look expensive, the outfit looks expensive.

■ The belt and shoes should be as close as possible in color, texture and material.

{Louisvilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Finest}

Mar/Apr 2012

slmag.net

five dollars

Louisville Finest | slmag.net

RODES FORUM SPRING 2012