SPRING 2012
$12
FAR, FAR AWAY...
A LAND CAUGHT IN ANOTHER PLACE & TIME
UNABASHED BAY AREA STYLE
www.brunellocucinelli.it
Castel del Monte - Andria
EXCITING CHANGES ARE HAPPENING
WELCOME
WELCOME TO THE TOWNHOUSE!
2012 PROMISES TO BE A LANDMARK YEAR FOR WILKES BASHFORD. Spring has sprung, and with it lots of exciting changes and developments! We are so grateful to our San Francisco and Palo Alto communities for your continued support of all our exciting events and endeavors! The vision to transform our flagship store into a San Francisco landmark is quickly becoming a reality. We are so excited about our extraordinary new Union Square “Townhouse” and the progress being made each day. By press time, the Penthouse should be open, with the 6th and 5th floors following soon thereafter... completing all
of our men’s spaces (with the exception of our “Best of Men’s” boutique that will be on the main floor). We are cautiously optimistic that our renovation will be complete by the 2012 holiday season. Our objective is for our new space to both inspire and relax all who enter, providing our customers with a welcoming and much-needed respite from the stresses of the city. We plan to offer a unique, very personalized retail experience in which we hope you will feel like you are visiting someone’s home! We are committed to making the renovations as seamless as possible,
working on one floor at a time, so that the construction will be contained and unobtrusive. Most importantly, we are all here each day, along with your favorite associates, providing our unique brand of service. As you’ll see on the coming pages, our stores are primed for spring and summer with a stunning selection of clothing, accessories and jewelry! We look forward to dressing you in Wilkes Bashford style this season… and to all the excitement that is coming in 2012!
The Mitchell Family & Wilkes Bashford
Wilkes Bashford 375 Sutter Street San Francisco 415.986.4380 450 Stanford Shopping Center Palo Alto 650.322.7080 RETAIL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Wilkes Bashford CONCEPT /CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell-Namdar MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS
Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
FEATURES 4 20 46 56 72 76
Designing a San Francisco Icon Laurene Powell Jobs Helps Get Kids on Track Temple Turns 25 Photography: Rock Star Art: Art Glass The New Guard of Philanthropists
Peg Eadie CREATIVE DIRECTION
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT WILKES ART DIRECTION & COPY
WSAA, Inc., Westport, CT BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
FASHION 14 22 52 58 60 74
Friends & Trends Far Far Away Accessories Suiting: Tailored to Perfection The Jacket Warm Weather. Cool Fabrics.
Christine Sullivan APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT
DEPARTMENTS 1 8 48 50 68 70 79 80
Welcome Letter Happenings Ask Wilkes for Him Ask Wilkes for Her World Scene Escapes: Star Treatment Essay: Pull it Together At Your Service
Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 12 regional editions for member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2012. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-6864412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 15, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
TOWNHOUSE WILKES BASHFORD’S EXCITING TRANSFORMATION
DESIGNING A SAN FRANCISCO ICON Jeff Henry, design director of Gensler — the world’s largest “architect only” firm, which happens to be headquartered in San Francisco — is excited! Henry is leading a team of architects and interior designers on a project they are confident will become a true San Francisco icon... the fully reimagined and renovated Wilkes Bashford Townhouse! With 41 offices, Gensler works on projects in all corners of the world. “It’s wonderful to create a space that will combine global inspiration with the best of San Franciscan style right in our own backyard!” Henry says. “It was the Mitchells’ vision to fashion the building as a townhouse,” says Henry. “We’re carrying that analogy throughout every inch of the building.” After a major “visioning session” with Gensler professionals, key Mitchells stakeholders and Wilkes Bashford himself, it was clear that everyone wanted the environment to feel like a beautiful, gracious home
the2012 townhouse
and the experience to be very personal, approachable and welcoming. With so many big-brand stores in the Union Square area, the new Wilkes Bashford space was conceived to be a true one-of-a-kind. “Like most interesting houses, the Wilkes Bashford Townhouse will be very eclectic in nature. Each floor will have its own distinct character, with unifying elements bringing it all together,” says Henry. From the grand foyer on the main floor, which will welcome customers in with a dramatic spiral staircase, through to the 7th floor penthouse, the building is being upgraded. “We’re strengthening the entire
infrastructure, rewiring, adding lots of new lighting and earthquake protection. It’s a wonderful old building and we’re investing in a long and exciting future!” says Jack Mitchell. To add to the user-friendliness of the new building, women’s floors are being clustered together, as are men’s. A highspeed elevator will whisk customers to the penthouse in just seconds and a speedy local elevator will make stops in between. “Just like with our clothing, it’s all in the details,” says Wilkes Bashford. “Our new flagship store will be so fabulous, it is beyond my wildest dreams!”
‘‘CRAFTING THE EXPERIENCE” — THE WILKES BASHFORD VISIONING SESSION On November 17th, 2010, Gensler facilitated a “visioning session” for the evolution and development of the new store design concept for Wilkes Bashford. The purpose of the session was to provide key decision-makers an opportunity to discuss project goals and priorities, identify potential programming
parameters as well as possible design drivers, vision and vocabulary. Through various exercises, the key stakeholders were able to collectively “craft the experience”... from store layout to technology and materials, factoring in the brand’s DNA and future objectives.
“IT WAS THE MITCHELLS’ VISION TO FASHION THE BUILDING AS A TOWNHOUSE AND WE’RE CARRYING THAT ANALOGY THROUGHOUT THE STORE. THEY WANTED IT TO FEEL LIKE A GRACIOUS HOME... THE EXPERIENCE TO BE PERSONAL, APPROACHABLE AND WELCOMING.” JEFF HENRY, DESIGN DIRECTOR, GENSLER
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the penthouse
Men’s Made to Measure, Kiton, Brioni
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the library Men’s Suiting & Furnishings, Ermenegildo Zegna
5
the stables
Men’s Sportswear, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana
2
the garden
4 3
the living room Women’s Couture
the artist ’ s studio Women’s Sportswear, Brunello Cucinelli, Loro Piana
Women’s Shoes & Accessories, Pratesi
the grand foyer
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Men’s Shoes, “Best of Men’s,” Jewelry
“EACH FLOOR WILL REPRESENT A DISTINCT SPACE WITHIN THE TOWNHOUSE.. INCORPORATING THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO STYLE WITH A NOD TO THE PLACES OUR CLOTHING COMES FROM.” TYLER MITCHELL
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the penthouse
As construction will be completed from the top down, the seventh floor penthouse will be the first floor finished, reachable by express elevator. This exclusive menswear world will include iconic Kiton and Brioni boutiques. The penthouse will feature millwork produced in Italy and integrated lighting. The Made to Measure lounge will have a fireplace, flatscreen television, ceiling with silver and gold leaf finish and windows with spectacular views. A long custom table, on which to lay out fabric bolts, will have a hand-made, organic quality. Italian plaster walls, a staging area, a stunning wet bar made of patinated zinc and walnut floors in a herringbone pattern complete the scene of an exquisite custom Italian clothing environment.
the library
6 the stables 5 the living room 4 the artist ’s studio 3 the garden 2 the grand foyer 1
Men’s suiting and furnishings will be housed in a richly masculine walnut environment. An Ermenegildo Zegna boutique will showcase the designer’s suits, ties and accessories. As another uniquely “San Francisco twist,” vintage articles from old newspapers by renowned San Francisco Chronicle columnist Herb Caen, a great friend of Wilkes Bashford’s, will be plastered on the wall to complete the literary and clubby atmosphere.
The men’s sportswear floor will represent “a drive to the country house,” where we find the rugged equestrian stables. Brunello Cucinelli and Loro Piana boutiques and other casual menswear designers will be showcased amidst cowhide and richly patinated wall coverings with beautiful beige and tobacco gray carpet.
The women’s couture floor will be the Townhouse’s “formal living room.” The area featuring evening wear will be buttoned-down and “black tie” in black and white. Moveable fixtures will allow the creation of smaller designer stories in boutiques that will vary with the collections being shown. Sumptuous velvet fabrics in neutral creams, silvers, grays, both cool and warm tones, will provide luxurious backdrops.
The women’s sportswear level, featuring Loro Piana and Brunello Cucinelli boutiques will be accented by waxed Italian aquamarine plaster from an artist’s studio. The fitting rooms will be seating areas, with a couple of large-scale VIP rooms, like little living rooms, where clients can try on a lot of clothing in a luxurious setting. The women’s restroom will be a black and white “media room” with mosaic tile and content on screens. The windows will be enclosed with a resin product that replicates a San Francisco fog bank, so it feels like a fog is rolling in! A bit of surprise orange is thrown in. The floor will have a young, hip feel.
The second floor, which features women’s shoes, handbags and accessories will be fashioned after the terrace or garden of a townhouse. Hanging will be spectacular elongated oval and silver leaf backdrops that will be an allusion to clouds, with a sunlight effect. Shoes will be presented as if they are flowers being cultivated in the garden. San Francisco artist Beth Weintraub’s acidetched zinc panels with floral motifs will set the tone. Neutral colors with terra cotta accents will add to the non-literal, figurative garden feel. The floor will be anchored by Pratesi linens on the end, at which point a shot of bright orange color will be infused into the scene.
You will be welcomed into a grand foyer with a sculptural marble and wrought iron spiral staircase, connecting the first and second floors. As in an actual home, the walls on the staircase will have portraits depicting stories and heritage moments. There will also be carved-out boxes with dramatically lit shoes and handbags. The landings will feature dressed mannequins that can be seen through the windows. As the kitchen is the heart of a home, the main floor will allude to a kitchen, with floating island, blackboard and wet bar. A new shop called “Best of Wilkes Men’s” will feature a wall of horizontally grained eucalyptus, salvaged from the Presidio. This is one example of continuity from the area’s idiosyncratic materials, that repeats itself, while the Italian marble floor speaks to the international aspect of the clothing.
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
AN EVENING OF CULTURE AND COUTURE
The Ballet San Jose School committee, with the help of Wilkes Bashford Palo Alto and Gentry Magazine, created an evening of fashion and fun to raise funds for the school’s scholarship program. Every year the school extends scholarships to half a dozen students who otherwise would be unable to attend. The evening included scholarship recipient speeches, informal modeling of Wilkes Bashford fall and holiday fashions and a pre-holiday party that everyone enjoyed. The Ballet San Jose School instructs over 400 students with a dozen acclaimed teachers and accompanists. The school was established in 1996 and has achieved national recognition as a premiere ballet training institution. It is the only professional ballet school in Silicon Valley associated with a major ballet company.
Models present fall and holiday fashions
kwiat.com r earring from the Kwiat Vintage Collection
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
HARD HAT PARTY CELEBRATES RE-FIT
Top: Jack Mitchell, center, with Hess Rouhafza & Alexander Koutsoyannis
Geared up for the re-fit, friends and guests caught a glimpse of the future transformation of Wilkes Bashford on Sutter Street. As we have broken ground on our construction site, guests received custom Wilkes Bashford hardhats prior to their journey to the seventh floor penthouse, which revealed exciting details about the top to bottom re-fit. Exposed beams and insulation served as décor for the event, among which guests mingled, noshed on hors d’oeuvres and sipped cocktails. Jeff Henry, our principal designer and architect from Gensler, was on hand to present to everyone the plans, sketches and materials for each of the eight floors being renovated. When visiting this spring, don a hard hat and we will be happy to show you firsthand the renovations underway.
Clockwise from top right: Tyler Mitchell with Major General Michale Myatt; Wilkes Bashford with Marc Corsi and Willie L. Brown Jr.; Caroline Zinko with Jeff Henry from Gensler; Christine Leong and guest
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
HABITAT FOR HUMANITY As Wilkes Bashford is well underway to re-fit our “home” on Sutter Street, we reached out to help Habitat for Humanity, a wonderful organization that builds homes for those in need. Guests turned out for a fun evening, and shopped for a great cause!
HILLSBOROUGH SCHOOL FASHION SHOW For the second year Wilkes Bashford teamed up with the Hillsborough schools to host an afternoon of fashion, food, and fun! Over 300 guests enjoyed the day and over $80,000 was raised for much needed school programs.
BRUNELL0 CUCINELLI NAPA A great time was had by all at our annual Brunello Cucinelli trunk show at the Ma(i)sonry in Napa Valley. Great food and wine by Black Bird Vineyards matched the delicious cashmeres from Brunello Cucinelli.
SPRING 2012 TRUNK SHOWS & EVENTS
FOR A COMPLETE LIST OF EVENTS, GO TO WILKESBASHFORD.COM
3/3
SARTORIA PARTENOPEA TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
3/8 – 3/9
LORO PIANA WOMEN’S FALL TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
3/10 – 3/11
LORO PIANA WOMEN’S FALL TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
3/10
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
3/11
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
3/16 – 3/17
BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
3/17 – 3/18
BRIONI MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
3/22 – 3/24
KITON MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
3/30 – 3/31
MICHAEL KORS FALL TRUNK SHOW
SAN FRANCISCO
4/19 – 4/22
KITON MEN’S TRUNK SHOW
PALO ALTO
friends trends
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SOME OF YOUR FAVORITE ASSOCIATES ON THE SEASON’S HOTTEST TRENDS.
NUDES & NEUTRALS
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“EARTH AND FLESH TONES ARE SOPHISTICATED, THEY CAN BE PAIRED WITH ANYTHING AND THEY’RE SEXY IN A MORE SUBTLE WAY.” Sheree Chambers Women’s Associate San Francisco
1. Brunello Cucinelli Sandal 2. Valentino Dress
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3. Brunelllo Cucinelli Messenger Bag 4. Brunello Cucinelli Jacket
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friends trends
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1. Michael Kors Dress 2. Etro Silk Blouse 3. Manolo Blahnik Sandal 4. Michael Kors Sweater 5. Michael Kors Dress 6. Pomellato Bangles 7. Michael Kors Zebra Print Skirt
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ANIMAL PRINTS + COLOR “GREAT SAFARIINSPIRED ANIMAL PRINTS AND TEXTURES MIXED WITH POPS OF BLING AND BRIGHT Meri Morgan COLOR LIKE ORANGE AND FUCHSIA.” Women’s Associate San Francisco
PIECES THAT TRAVEL WELL “WITH THE WAY MEN LIVE TODAY, IT’S ALL ABOUT THINGS THAT PACK WELL, DON’T WRINKLE MUCH, ARE VERSATILE AND LOOK GREAT!” 2.
Jeff Garelick Director of Sales
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1. Charvet Shirts 2. Silo Ties Piana Rain Jacket 3. Loro Pia
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4. Canali Suit S 5. Brunello Cucinelli Sweaters 6. Moore & Giles iPad Case
EARTH-FRIENDLY CASUAL “SOFT PRE-WASHED COTTONS FEEL LIGHT AND COZY, COME IN GREAT STYLES AND COLORS AND MAKE EVERY DAY FEEL LIKE SUNDAY!” Hess Rouhafza Store Manager Palo Alto
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4. 1. John Varvatos boot 2. Agave Supima Polo 3. Agave Supima Sueded Jersey 4. Hamilton Shirt 5. Agave Jeans
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friends trends
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1. Brunello Cucinelli Cropped Sweater 2. Oscar de la Renta 3. Kathleen Dughi Citrus Earring 4. Missoni 5. Ashley Pittman Cuffs 6. Michael Kors Top
ORGANIC SPRING COLORS “EARTH, GRASS AND SUN TONES... BROWNS, BEIGES, GREENS AND VIBRANT YELLOWS... SET A SPRING MOOD AND MIX WELL WITH WOOD AND ORGANIC MATERIALS.”
Olivia Baziw Jewelry Specialist
SOPHISTICATED COLOR “IN SHIRTS, TIES, JACKETS, EVERYWHERE... ADD SOME COLOR TO YOUR NAVIES AND NEUTRALS. PALETTES FOR MEN HAVE NEVER BEEN MORE STUNNING AND SOPHISTICATED!” Alexander Koutsoyanis Men’s Associate Palo Alto
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11. Ermenegildo Zegna Linen Shirts 22. Brioni Ties 33. Ermenegildo Zegna Pocket Squares 44. Hickey Freeman Pinstripe Suit 55. Partenopea Jacket
GIVING BACK MAKING COLLEGE A REALITY
COLLEGE TRACK’S NEW BAYVIEW FACILITY WILL EMPOWER HUNDREDS OF SAN FRANCISCO STUDENTS TO GO TO COLLEGE.
LAURENE POWELL JOBS HELPS GET KIDS ON TRACK Co-founded in 1997 by Laurene Powell Jobs and Carlos Watson, College Track is a national after-school program that empowers students from underserved communities to reach their dream of earning a college degree. Now serving 1,100 students in East Palo Alto, Oakland, San Francisco, New Orleans and Aurora, Colorado, College Track celebrated its most recent groundbreaking at a new 13,000 square-foot facility in Bayview. College Track had been serving 200 students per year in Bayview, but with the new facility, soon they will serve 500! Wilkes Bashford, a proud council member of the project, was on hand for the event as was Mayor Ed Lee and, best of all, many past and present Bayview students. With College Track’s impressive track record — 90% go on college — we at Wilkes Bashford are very excited about the project and invite our community to get involved! For more information on upcoming fundraising events and how to support College Track, please visit www.collegetrack.org.
“WE STARTED COLLEGE TRACK 13 YEARS AGO BECAUSE WE BELIEVE THAT TALENT AND IQ ARE EVENLY DISTRIBUTED ACROSS SOCIETY, BUT OPPORTUNITY IS NOT.” LAURENE POWELL JOBS, CO-FOUNDER/COLLEGE TRACK
REMEMBERING STEVE JOBS I remember the first time Steve came into our San Francisco store. He was shoeless, intense and exceptionally funny. He had a big presentation coming up in New York and wanted his first really serious suit. I believe it was Armani. Anyone who knew Steve back then could see what he was capable of and
what a world changer he would turn out to be. Over the years, we enjoyed his visits and working with the folks from Apple at our Palo Alto store. We fondly remember his first large order for his famous black shirts... now the stuff of fashion legend. We feel very blessed to have
had a brush with Steve’s greatness and extend our deepest condolences to his wife, chidren, family, friends and colleagues. We join the community in supporting Laurene Powell Jobs’ visionary work with College Track, and all of her endeavors. —Wilkes Bashford
PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING: WENDY MCNETT
FAR FAR AWAY IS A LAND CAUGHT IN ANOTHER PLACE AND TIME.. WHERE A BEDOUIN TENT PROVIDES THE PERFECT SHELTER AFTER A LONG CAMEL TREK IN THE DESERT SUN.
B RU NELL O CUCINELLI
BOG N ER
L OREN JEWELS
M A N OL O BLAHNI K
OUT OF NORTH AFRICA
COME THE COLORS OF SPRING 2012: SAFARI-INSPIRED NEUTRALS..
AKRIS
AGNONA
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
L O RO PIANA
. .ACCENTED BY THE RICH COLORS OF CHUTNEYS, SPICES & EXOTIC FRUITS.
MICHAEL KORS
L AG OS
ETRO
AT THE SOUKS BERBER RUGS & EXOTIC LAMPS WAIT TO BE DISCOVERED.
AG AVE
BRIO NI
KITON
BACK AT THE RIAD A BEDAZZLING EVENING AWAITS TO UNFOLD.
K I M BERLY McDONALD
O S C AR DE LA RE N TA
LUCIANO BARBERA
J I M MY C HOO
1001 NIGHTS BECKON FOR ENCHANTING EVENINGWEAR & JEWELS BEFITTING A PRINCESS.
VALENTINO
L O RO PIANA
T E M P LE S T CLAIR
MI SS ON I
MOROCCAN FOLK MUSIC & LAMP LIGHT FILL THE RIAD THROUGH THE NIGHT..
IS AIA ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
ANNIVERSARIES
TEMPLE ST. CLAIR’S 25TH
TEMPLE TURNS 25! TEMPLE ST. CLAIR ON MAGIC ALLEYS, ANCIENT CULTURES & HOW ALL THINGS CONNECT... the rest is history. I still work with that hat same studio in Florence; they’re like family. ly.
What inspires you most? Cultural connections between all off the rt to arts... from performing arts to fine art onnect. architecture. I love how all things connect. ank Nothing is in isolation. I look at Frank Lloyd Wright and see Zen Buddhism. Etruscan art connects to India and China and the migration of tribes. I love cultural anthropology. People have always worn jewelry, from the caveman to the rapper. Jewelry is always a sign of the times... a statement about what is meaningful.
From an anthropological/jewelry perspective, how will our times go down in history? How did you get started? I’ve always fancied myself an adventurer and explorer. When I was finishing grad school in Florence, where I studied Italian Renaissance literature, my mother and I went into a numismatic antiquarian shop and found a rare 4th-century BC Carthaginian coin. She gave me the task of making it into a piece of jewelry. Searching for a goldsmith in the back alleys of Florence led me into a magical world of artistry, history and culture. I started making jewelry from old coins and selling them to sustain my passion, never with the intention of starting a business. Someone from Barneys saw my pieces and offered to sell them in a case with my name on it... and
I’ve found that when times are shakier, personal connections and things held close to the heart like charms and amulets are more important. People want jewelry to have more meaning and value. I create pieces of great quality, with a rarity of gemstones and craftsmanship. Mine is a slow process and my pieces are meant to be timeless, modern classics. People want more important pieces.
What are the top milestones of your 25 years? Moving back from 12 years in Italy, meeting my husband and having my sons are the most significant. I have a little house in the East Village... I’ve loved making my home there. In 2008, Harper Collins published my book Alchemy. To write a book and have it
reviewed in The New York Times was big for me. And my 25th itself. I was recently inducted into the Accessories Hall of Fame. Jewelry has been this incredible vehicle for me. It’s given a context to all I love to study and do.
What are your goals for the next 25? As I learn more about craftsmanship, my jewelry has become more refined and I’m doing more bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces. I want to make my mark and define my own place in the history of jewelry. I also plan to collaborate more with friends who are various kinds of artists.
What causes are you passionate about? My husband works with me. We’re both passionate about education in the arts and support New York Live Arts. I’m also passionate about the environment, particularly issues involving the ocean. I’m a spokesperson for Too Precious to Wear, which advocates the non-wearing of coral, which is essential to our ecosystem. If not stopped, it will lead to world hunger.
What’s your favorite personal piece of jewelry? I am never without my rock crystal amulets. But my “thesis” is a pendant called the Tolomeo after the 1st-century astronomer, Ptolemy. It extols the ancient theory that Earth is the center of universe. It’s rather complex with astrological glyphs and Latin engravings. It’s humorous and whimsical.
Any great stories of celebrities in your jewelry? I don’t pursue celebrities to wear my jewelry, but I love when they choose it on their own. Years ago, I designed wedding rings for Ted Danson and Mary Steenburgen. Last spring, I was at an event and Julia Roberts showed up in blue
“PEOPLE HAVE ALWAYS WORN JEWELRY, FROM THE CAVEMAN TO THE RAPPER. JEWELRY IS A SIGN OF THE TIMES, A STATEMENT ABOUT WHAT’S MEANINGFUL.”
moonstone earrings and a necklace of mine, looking great. At the Accessories Hall of Fame awards, Cynthia Nixon presented in my jewelry. I love that she wears it. She’s a fellow New Yorker... down to earth, talented and passionate about education. She’s a true artist, very real.
Who’s the best designer to pair with your jewelry? Brunello Cucinelli is an amazing line. His clothing has great synergy with my jewelry... the same values: great quality, subtle elegance, an in-the-know brand. A fellow artisan of Italy!
Describe your relationship with the Mitchells. I’ve been with them 16 years. I was an early part of their jewelry business. Linda and Jack were my first points of contact and I’ve grown up with Bob and Scott. We have a lot of synergy and shared values about quality and, of course, customer service. We’re a very good fit, philosophically.
ASKWILKES
SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Q:
I’ve had some of my suits for over a decade and they’re holding up pretty well. How do I know when it’s time to replace them?
Q:
What can I do to make my casual wardrobe current for spring/summer 2012?
Q:
My wife switches her closet every season, but I wear the same suits and slacks all year round. Am I doing something wrong?
Just because your old suits aren’t worn out doesn’t mean they’re still in style. Cuts are slimmer now, so if you haven’t bought a suit since the country had a balanced budget, your closet needs updating! Jackets are also slightly shorter, twobuttons are in and pleated pants are out! The trimmer a suit gets the more important fit becomes, so it’s a good idea to invest in well-made pieces. Ask us to show you how quality canvassing, construction and fabrics all come together to form the perfect fit, one that highlights your shape and moves with you without constraining you. We’ll bring you up to speed with updated models that suit your taste and budget. And don’t forget to pick up a few slimmed-down shirts and ties to complete the new you; nothing ruins the silhouette of a trim suit faster than wearing a large, lumpy shirt under it.
Yes! Suits in particular are often designed by season. Tropical-weight, at 6.5 to 8.5 ounces per linear yard, is comfortable for spring and summer weather. Midweight suits (9 to 10 ounces) can be worn 10 months out of the year, and regularweight suits (11 to 13 ounces) are suitable for fall and winter months. Some fabric types are also more appropriate for certain seasons: linen, cotton and seersucker in lighter colors help keep you cool in summer, while corduroy, tweed and flannel in darker seasonal tones are great layering pieces for the colder months.
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IMAGE COURTESY OF CANALI
Warm weather sportswear can be casual, but never sloppy. One perfect way to update is with the season’s hottest bottoms: slim chinos. Available in bright colors and updated neutrals, the new chinos pair equally well with polos or soft coats. Make sure they hit just at the top of your shoe, or roll them up a few times for relaxed elegance. Don’t forget to ditch your socks or replace them with ones that can’t be seen, like the new styles from V.K. Nagrani. The boat shoe is also back in a big way this summer. We’re firm believers that deck shoes offer a perfect footwear option for casual style. Try them with colorful shorts for day, or dark jeans and a blazer for evening. Drivers and loafers are always safe bets, too.
ASKWILKES
SPRING FASHION TIPS FOR HER
Q:
It seems that prints are everywhere, but I’ve never considered myself a “prints person.” Help!
Q:
I love white for summer. What can I do to add some visual interest to an all-white outfit?
Q:
Asymmetric hemlines look great on the runway, but how can I translate the look for real life?
From bold geometrics to dreamy florals, our favorite designers are offering all manner of fabulous prints for 2012. With so many to choose from, there’s something out there for everyone. If you’re new to prints, an easy way to introduce them into your wardrobe is with a flowy, romantic blouse or dress, like the one from Vince pictured at left. There are no hard and fast rules, so the most important thing is to come in and start trying things on! Don’t discount anything until you see how it looks on you. We promise to help you find a pretty print you can wear with confidence, and put the spring back in your step this season.
If you thought white was boring, or that you could only wear it a few months out of the year, you might be surprised at the lighthearted—and light colored—fashions that dominated this season’s runways. You can add both newness and longevity to your wardrobe by layering different tones (bright white, cream and taupe) and contrasting textures (pique, eyelet, embroidery and knit). This look is all about approachability and ease, so try a loose, sheer blouse over a georgette cami, or top a silky slipdress with a chunky cardigan. And don’t forget to carefully consider your undergarments, the literal foundation for any successful white ensemble.
Skirts, dresses and tops with asymmetric cuts are hot right now, so you’ll be remiss if you let their tricky fits scare you away! Don’t be dismayed if you try it on and it doesn’t look exactly like it did on the model. This style is all about proportion, but you can always have a piece tailored and tweaked to flatter your particular shape. Working with your associate is key: she can point you toward the pieces that will work for you, help you decide what alterations to make, and suggest the perfect footwear to complete the look.
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All designs Š Paul Morelli 2012
Designed and handcrafted in Philadelphia
DIAMOND CONFETTI 800.716.3859 PA U L M O R E L L I . C O M
accessories
FUN IS IN THE BAG... WHIMSICAL, YET TIMELESS. Accessories this season are taking their cue from fashion. Handbags and shoes are creative, spirited and don’t take themselves too seriously. In handbags, many retro shapes are being seen and the colors are often unexpected. In women’s shoes, the higher the platforms, wedges or stilettos the better, with some ballet flats thrown in for good measure. Men’s shoes are slim, sleek and versatile...
PHOTOGRAPHY: RILEY + RILEY Clockwise, top to bottom: Valentino, Kara Ross, Chloé, Cole Haan
PUT SOME SPRING IN YOUR STEP!
Clockwise, top to bottom: Jimmy Choo, Fratelli Rossetti, Fratelli Rossetti, Pas de Rouge
accessories TWO “RIGHT” FEET! TREAT YOURSELF TO A PAIR OF BEAUTIFULLY CRAFTED SHOES.
Clockwise, top to bottom: Bontoni, Gravati, Bontoni, Crockett & Jones, Crockett & Jones
A LITTLE CARE... A LOT OF WEAR!
The 2 most important things to remember: 1. Always keep shoes on a cedar shoe tree. 2. Get shoes polished at least twice per year.
WITH PROPER CARE, A GOOD PAIR OF SHOES WILL LAST MANY YEARS. Taking proper care of quality shoes is the best way to protect your investment and can extend the life of the shoe several-fold. No matter how good the quality, a shoe left to its own devices will show its age way before its time.
4. Meltonian Boot & Shoe Polish Allen Edmonds Premium Shoe Polish
Proper shoe care is very easy and a small price to pay for keeping shoes looking their best!
3. Rochester Shoe Tree
1. shoe horn Using a shoe horn to put on shoes helps preserve the shape and keeps shoes from getting stretched out and suede or leather from getting worn.
A good shoe tree is the single best investment you can make towards caring for your shoes. It must be cedar or other wood to help shoes maintain their shape, as plastic holds moisture, which misshapes shoes. $40
A good shoe polish will not only help with consistency of color, but will contain conditioners to help keep shoes from drying out. Polishing shoes or having them professionally cleaned, polished and shined at least twice each season is essential to proper shoe care.
5. shoe brush Buff out your shoes after a good polish. The best shoe brushes are made with soft horsehair bristles.
2. shoelaces Replacing shoelaces once they’re worn or frayed keeps lace-up shoes looking newer longer.
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photography
STAR
PHOTOGRAPHER NEAL PRESTON ON CAPTURING MOMENTS IN TIME. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
Taking photos at rock concerts started out as a hobby for NYC teenager Neal Preston. But with his unique ability to capture not just the celebrity but the spirit and humanity within, Preston ultimately became one of the preeminent rock star photographers of our era, traveling around the world with famous musicians for the past four decades. His work has appeared on covers and features in major magazines (Time, People, Rolling Stone), newspa-
ALL IMAGES BY NEAL PRESTON
Top left: Stevie Nicks at home in Venice, California, 1981 Left: Freddie Mercury at London’s Wembley Stadium, 1986
pers, movies and on countless record and CD covers. We caught up with Preston at a recent photography exhibit at The Morrison Hotel Gallery in SoHo.
What life lessons have you learned from traveling around the world with rock stars?
Jimmy Page, onstage during Led Zeppelin’s 1977 U.S. tour
I’ve learned that music touches everyone in a very deep and spiritual place, as it does me. If you take someone’s music away—and it doesn’t matter if it’s rock, hip-hop, classical, whatever—you are ripping out his soul… I’ve also learned that the greatest luxury in life is to be able to take private rather than commercial flights!
How do you manage to get these very wired guys to relax? How do you capture them in ordinary moments?
It’s all about being a fly on the wall. Mind you, that’s not something that can be taught; you just have to go by instinct. There is a real finesse involved with figuring out when to remain invisible and when not to. If you start to act like you’re the fifth member of Led Zeppelin, you’re gonna have a big fat problem…
What was the strangest moment you ever experienced at a rock concert?
There are many. But having Peter Grant (Led Zeppelin’s legendary manager) tell me to actually go onstage during a show and stand in front of the drummer (John Bonham) and shoot him was pretty bizarre.
What do you consider your greatest accomplishment? Many people have told me that they can hear the music when they look at my photos.
Who do you most admire?
I’m not sure “admiration” would be the right description, but the two musicians who have influenced my life are Pete Townshend and John Lennon. Pete for the honesty in his writing, his creativity, his tortured genius, his ability to look at life from multiple points of view… I could go on and on. And John Lennon, for showing me what “cool” really is, for giving me the greatest soundtrack to life a teenager could have, and for allowing me to realize that music was, and always will be, in my DNA.
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suiting
Zegna suits in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’s new Milano suit for spring
TAILORED TO PERFECTION
100 YEARS LATER, OLD-WORLD CRAFTSMANSHIP MEETS MODERN TECHNOLOGY. BY WILLIAM KISSEL 58
2012 is an exquisitely detailed work of art that, one could say, took the Italian clothier a century to perfect. Just in time for the luxury menswear brand’s 100th anniversary, the Milano is a super-soft study in sartorial chic that combines a slim shape, gently fitted waist and natural, semi-constructed shoulders. Like all Zegna suits this season, the new Milano, available in both single and doublebreasted, is interpreted in a range of colorful natural fabrics that appear to be bleached by the sun, with an ever-so-slight sheen reminiscent of sharkskin clothing from the 1950s. But the Milano is tailored with a decidedly modern sensibility. The jacket is cut slightly shorter and features just a hint more interior canvas— as many as three layers— for structure, yet the
finished garment remains remarkably lightweight. The defining element is the barchetta, or boat-shaped breast pocket, a sewing detail that can only be achieved by hand. Initially a cloth producer and later a suit and sportswear maker, Ermenegildo Zegna (pronounced zane-ya) has perfected the art of lighter-than-air suit making like no other designer label in history. The Trivero, Italy-based mega-brand not only constructs all of its own suits in factories around the world (prompting the company to introduce the slogan ‘Made in Zegna’), but the family-owned company has pioneered everything from the technically advanced fabrics used to make its suits to the su mesura, or made-to-measure, concept often employed to sell them.
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HAT MAKES AN ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SUIT SO SPECIAL—espe-
cially the made-to-measure variety—can only be answered by slipping into one. Each piece is a labor of love tailored to your exact specifications, in the fabric of your choice. You can select the number of pockets, the direction of the pleats on your trousers and even the buttons and whether or not they work. Moreover, it will be made with such attention to detail that your every physical anomaly—from sloping shoulders and a thrown back to a hollow chest or an enlarged abdomen—is actually masked by the finished garment. (Buying one of these suits is a far better option than going under the doctor’s knife.) You may never need to visit your tailor again. “By the time a made-to-measure suit is complete over 500 hands will have touched it and more than 7,000 hand stitches will have been used to create it,” explains image director Anna Zegna. Zegna workers have a hand in every step, from shearing the sheep through the processing of the fiber into yarn (and then fine fabrics), to the cutting and sewing of every jacket using a combination of modern machinery and hand finishing. “The perfect fit of a Zegna suit comes from constructing it with 100 pieces; the lining alone comprises 12 separate components,” adds Zegna. After each piece is precision cut, it passes through the hands of hundreds of tailors, whose singular purpose is to turn one-dimensional pieces of cloth into a three-dimensional garment worthy of the most discriminating clien-
tele. The waistband, fly and belt loops on a pair of trousers can require more than 20 workers, and it takes the efforts of another 24 tailors to construct the sleeves of a jacket; nearly 190 sewers are involved in creating the body of a single jacket. Even the act of sewing a simple buttonhole “can take an eternity of careful cutting and stitching,” says Zegna. Once the fabric has been cut, corresponding pieces are carefully bundled and passed down to the tailors and sewers to construct the garment, which can take as long as four days to wind its way through the 110-step production cycle. Upon completion each suit undergoes an arduous pressing process performed by dozens of workers: six to press the slacks and another 22 to press and handiron the jacket before it receives its final inspection. If the finished garment meets the company’s lofty standards, it is literally given the Zegna seal of approval as the signature logo is sewn in place.
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THE SECRET of a Zegna suit isn’t just the meticulous way it’s put together, but the innovative cloth used to make it. The company’s founder and namesake, Ermenegildo Zegna, began as a fabric maker in 1910 with the creation of a natural wool weighing roughly 350 grams per square meter, considered featherweight by early 20th-century standards. Today, most Zegna fabrics weigh in at a fraction of that and include such technical advances as Trofeo, a worsted wool made of prestige Australian superfine merino wool with long fibers for added strength and resiliency, and the latest 13milmil13, a vicuna-like fabric made from merino yarns measuring less than 13 microns. (To appreciate how exceptional this is, one need only reflect on the fact that a human hair measures roughly 50 to 60 microns.) The development of such fine micron wools is the result of Zegna’s 1963 initiative, the Vellus Aureum trophy, which motivates and awards Australia and New Zealand’s sheep farmers who produce these ultra-fine wools. Pioneering fabrics for spring include Zero Weight, a blend of superfine merino wool and silk with a yarn count of 600—the finest silk quality in the world. The company is also moving forward with last year’s Cool Effect, in which fine Australian wool is finished to enable dark fabrics to reflect heat like light-colored ones. The result: a cloth that keeps the wearer 10 degrees cooler than if he were wearing an untreated fabric. “Fabric represents Zegna’s heritage and it’s the primary focus of our innovation,” says Anna Zegna, noting that the brand offers more than 700 cloth options, including 200 new fabrics each season, as part of its made-to-measure suit service. Over the course of the company’s 100-year history, “Zegna has invented over 20 unique and innovative fabrics in various colors, patterns and textures, which have become staples of our collection.”
YOU’RE NEVER FULLY DRESSED WITHOUT...
The Jacket THE ULTIMATE “FINISHING TOUCH” & THE KEY TO THE WELL-DRESSED MAN.
Spring may be springing, but that doesn’t mean it’s time to walk around without a jacket. A great-looking lightweight jacket or sportcoat is an essential finishing touch for a put-together casual look.
Whether a man walks into a meeting, a meal or a movie... without a jacket, no matter how great the shirt is, the look will be unfinished, lacking in style and sophistication. This spring, there has never been a more versatile selection of high-performance, lightweight jackets in so many fabrics and
styles. Whether in summer suede, seersucker or silk, cotton, denim or “techno-fiber” designed to beat the heat, a couple of great jackets can complete any look. And jackets are not just for slacks. Wear them with jeans, khakis, even your favorite shorts!
SOPHISTICATED
JACKET 101 101:1: EASIEST THE EASIES ST ADD WAY TO AD DD STYLE ANDD ELEGANCE TO YOUR CASUAL CASUAL EVERYDAY LOOK
SIMPLE
MEMORABLE
DON’T MAKE THE MISTAKE OF THINKING THAT JUST BECAUSE IT’S WARM YOU DON’T NEED A JACKET.
FORGETTABLE
SUEDE OR SEERSUCKER, COTTON OR CASHMERE... A JACKET ADDS ELEGANCE AND TEXTURE TO ANY OUTFIT.
JACKET “NOT OPTIONAL” — AN UNJACKETED SHIRT & TIE MAY BE SUITABLE FOR A STUDENT, BUT NOT FOR A MAN WHO MEANS BUSINESS.
ARTSY
PUT A GREAT JACKET OVER A CASUAL SHIRT AND YOU’RE READY FOR A WINE TASTING OR ART SHOW.
SLOPPY
BUTTON UP YOUR OVERCOAT... A WELL- MADE JACKET TAKES YOU JUST ABOUT EVERYWHERE!
The Ermenegildo Zegna 10-Pocket Blazer
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PHOTOGRAPHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC. STYLING: WENDY MCNETT FOR AGENT OLIVER. GROOMING: TREVOR BOWDEN FOR BERNSTEIN & ANDRIULLI
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THIS LIGHTWEIGHT MUST-HAVE TRAVELS LIKE A PRO & TAKES A LOAD OFF YOUR PANTS POCKETS.
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world scene THE ART OF STYLE
L
e Royal Monceau, Raffles in Paris is a very fashionable hotel. Between rushing out to glamorous appointments, modish guests dine in the restaurants, gather at Le Bar Long for cocktails, or indulge in the Spa My Blend by Clarins (which has the longest indoor pool in Paris). And it’s the ideal hotel for art lovers. Paintings, drawings and photography exhibitions are in the lobby, the rooms… everywhere. There’s even a contemporary fresco, A Garden in Paris, on the ceiling of La Cuisine. Le Royal Monceau is also home to the city’s first art concierge, who offers tours of the hotel’s treasures and organizes excursions, such as a visit to contemporary art galleries in the Marais and St. Germain areas, or a private viewing of the Henri Matisse exhibition in Pompidou. In Paris, home is where the art is.
BAYEUX TOURIST OFFICE
Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson
UN JOUR EN NORMANDIE
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he lovely little town of Bayeux in Normandy, near the English Channel, is home to the celebrated 230-foot tapestry depicting the Norman invasion of Britain, not to mention extraordinary cheese, the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Bayeux and a landscape layered with centuries of history. A drive through the lush countryside offers glimpses of châteaus, apple orchards and the famous Normandy cows, arguably the most tranquil in the world. Naturally, you’ll want to visit the inspiring and poignant beaches and artifacts of the World War II invasion. (At Port en Bessin, right above a German bunker, notice the watchtower built by the soldiers of Louis XV.) Nearby is the 17th-century Château de Balleroy, the Forbes family home. So is Brécy, a manor house with restored Italian-style gardens laid out over four terraces. The Château de Brouay, a mid-18th century château surrounded by farms, has been a family estate for six generations; you can arrange to lunch in the château or have a cocktail in the orchards. And don’t miss La Haizerie farm, where you might be invited to pet the cows before tasting the homemade lavender ice cream.
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SUMMER READING
T
IMAGE BY GLENN SUOKKO
here’s a reason Twin Farms is a nice place to curl up with a good book. Set in Vermont, just north of Woodstock on 300 acres of meadows and woodlands, this quiet country hideaway was once the home of Sinclair Lewis and Dorothy Thompson. Here, many of the great names in literature gathered to talk (and probably argue) about their work and lives. Twin Farms retains its aura of simplicity and coziness. There are hand-painted murals, rich maple and pine woodwork, American folk art and rustically elegant accommodations, with king-size feather beds, wood-burning fireplaces and screened porches. If you need to stretch, there’s hiking, biking, tennis, pond swimming, fly fishing and canoeing. But why bother? Just relax and catch up on your reading.
PLUGGED IN
E
ven if you’re not a motorcycle enthusiast, chances are you’re going to want to tool around the countryside (or slip quickly through city traffic) this summer on the top-of-the-line bike from Evolve. The Titanium XR is all electric: no gas, no oil, no emissions. It can go up to 60 miles per hour, has a range of 100 miles on one charge and is almost completely silent. At your request, Evolve will even make coordinating accessories, such as a container sized perfectly to hold your picnic basket or bottle of bubbly.
FROM THE TOP
IMAGE BY GREG POWERS
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n warm evenings, New Yorkers love to gather at rooftop lounges. Upstairs At The Kimberly is a favorite among celebrities and fashion insiders. The view is spectacular, the lounge is never uncomfortably crowded (there’s a strict rule about the number of people admitted), and the staff is charming. Together, sommeliers Branimir Kostic and Niko Mavreas have created an extensive list that boasts a collection of spirits and wines from all over the world, including an astonishing 26 different kinds of Champagne. There are wonderful savory and sweet things to munch on (try the truffled mac and cheese or lobster sliders), and either sommelier is happy to help guests choose a wine and food pairing. Reach for the stars.
escapes
Star TREATMENT
Below: Sleep under the stars in the Sabi Sands region of South Africa.
BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON
THE IDEA OF CAMPING—fresh air, friends gathering around a campfire, slumbering under the stars—appeals to almost everyone. Sleeping on the ground, dirt-speckled food and primitive bathroom facilities do not. Fortunately, enterprising camp creators are removing much of the uncomfortable stuff from a stay in the great outdoors, preserving all the good and adding even more incentives. Glam camping, or “glamping” as it’s now called, has spread around the world. The Clayoquot Wilderness Resort is located on the west coast of Vancouver
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Island (reachable by boat or sea plane). Here, guests who love the great outdoors can hike, fish, or climb to a treetop observation platform to view one of the oldest temperate rainforests in the world, then “fly” over the forest via a 285 meter-long flight line. For those who prefer less strenuous exploits, Clayoquot offers wine tastings, spa tents and library tents with an internet café. And the accommodations will surely attract the luxury-loving camper. Tents reminiscent of those used in 19th-century great safari camps have king beds with down
IMAGE BY FLOATING ECO-LODGE CAMBODIA
IMAGE COPYRIGHT © ABERCROMBIE & KENT
duvets, antique dressers and tea tables, Persian carpets, working bathrooms and heated floors. There are even bathrobes and turndown service. The Resort at Paws Up, located on 37,000 acres along the Blackfoot River near Missoula, Montana, offers a range of year-round activities: 120 miles of designated hiking and riding trails, fly-fishing, whitewater rafting, cross-country skiing, and more. Recently, Paws Up has opened their most luxurious tented accommodations ever. Set on a bluff overlooking the Blackfoot River and Elk Creek, Pinnacle Camp has one- and twobedroom suites with climate controls, jetted tubs in the ensuite bathrooms and decks with river views. There’s even a personal “camping butler.” If you want to go off by yourself, boutique adventure company Global
Above, left: The Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia Right: Abercrombie & Kent’s Sahara Desert Camp
Expeditions, Inc. offers private custom excursions. This company doesn’t have a fixed location or standard package. Instead, an area is leased exclusively for you and a luxury tented camp is created. Global will fly in a chef from anywhere in the world, and cater to your whims with yoga masters, masseurs and estheticians, or authorities on geology, ecology and astronomy. For stargazers, there are several other options. Abercrombie & Kent will
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arrange for you to explore the mysterious Sahara Desert. After a tour of the area (including Berber villages and the Atlas Mountains) guests set off across the desert for a four-wheel drive to the camp, situated in a remote area overlooking the Erg Chebbi Dunes. There’s a sunset camel ride through the Sahara’s dazzling expanse, followed by a Moroccan dinner, traditional entertainment and a spacious Caidal tent. Then there’s Four Rivers Floating Eco-Lodge in Cambodia, located in Tatai, next to the Thai border between Bangkok and Phnom Penh. There are 12 tented villas, each with a flat-screen TV, mini-bar and wi-fi. You can trek into the jungle to explore one of the world’s largest rainforests, kayak down river, fish, or perhaps stop off for a natural hydro massage in the Tatai Waterfalls. At the end of the day, you can relax on your private sun-lounger balcony for a cocktail. If you want to get away from (and above) it all, Lion World Tours, specializing in trips to southern and eastern Africa, can arrange for you to stay in a treehouse. In the Sabi Sands region of South Africa, an astonishing bedroom has been built around a majestic 500-year-old Leadwood tree. Guests are taken to the camp at sunset to gaze out over the plains while enjoying Champagne and local delicacies, before turning in on lavish linens in complete privacy… and, naturally, sleeping under the stars.
art
Art
MIND-“BLOWINGLY” BEAUTIFUL BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE
GLASS A MIXTURE of the most common materials—sand,
Gauguin’s Island III by Peter Layton
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calcium and ash—is transformed by fire into glass. Artists turn it into masterpieces. Making glass dates back to about 2500BC in Mesopotamia. Phoenicians were accomplished glassmakers as were the Egyptians, known for stunning turquoise and blue pieces created with copper and cobalt oxides. But it was the Syrians who discovered glassblowing in 50BC. Until then, glass objects were luxury items, considered more valuable than precious gems. Apart from some jewelry—beads and amulets— most glass was used for utilitarian purposes: holding wine, perfume and oils. Glassblowing made it possible for large quantities of diverse glassware to be produced inexpensively, creating two categories of glass: luxury and functional. Over the centuries, various areas became renowned as glass centers: Venice, Bohemia, France, Sweden. But while a few individual artists such as René Lalique and Louis Comfort Tiffany became internationally recognized for innovations in the field, glassmaking remained industry based, often shrouded in secrecy. It wasn’t until the 1960s in the United States that the idea took hold that individual artists could create art glass objects in their own studios. Fueled by desire and technical advances, in 1962 artist Harvey K. Littleton and glass scientist Dominick Labino led groundbreaking workshops at the Toledo Museum of Art, introducing artists to the use of glass as a material for contemporary art. Soon, glassmaking programs sprang up at universities and art schools across the country, and what became known as the
Viewing Art Glass
In 2012, the 50th anniversary of the Studio Glass Movement is being celebrated at museums across the world.
THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS Corning, New York (www.cmog.org) Special 2012 Exhibitions: Founders of American Studio Glass: Harvey K. Littleton & Dominick Labino; Masters of Studio Glass: Erwin Eisch; Making Ideas: Experiments in Design at GlassLab
TACOMA ART MUSEUM Tacoma, Washington (www.TacomaArtMuseum.org) Permanent Collection: Chihuly: Gifts from the Artist
IMAGE THE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS
This page, top: Squill I by Adam Aaronson Bottom: Ruby Conical Intersection with Amber Sphere by Harvey K. Littleton
Studio Glass Movement developed into an international phenomenon. Dale Chihuly is one of the best-known American artists to emerge from the movement. But British artist Peter Layton also happened to be in the States at the time, teaching ceramics at the University of Iowa; he became so taken by the properties of glass that he changed disciplines. “Glass has a life and will of its own that you need to work with rather than control,” explains Layton. “I love the fluidity of the medium and the spontaneity it demands.” Back in England, the glass-smitten Layton established The Contemporary Glass Society to support and encourage glassmakers and opened the London Glassblowing Workshop to create and teach contemporary glass art. Now, Peter Layton and one of his initial students, Adam Aaronson, are considered mainstays of London’s art glass scene. Both take nature as an inspiration and “landscape” and “painterly influences” are two major areas of common exploration. Although the execution is quite different, their work has the feeling of Impressionist paintings rendered in solid form. “As an artist, I am inspired by the ceaseless variability of light on the landscape, in the sky and on water,” Aaronson says. “Glass is the ideal medium to express this idea of continual change since its properties are inherently fluctuating, not only in its molten state but also in the way the play of light creates endless nuances in the finished piece.”
ZeST GALLERY AT THE INTERNATIONAL SCULPTURE OBJECTS & FUNCTIONAL ART FAIR New York and Santa Fe (www.sofaexpo.com) 2012: Pieces by Adam Aaronson and Peter Layton
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY MACO TESTA
BOB MITCHELL ON WHY YOUR SPRING WARDROBE SHOULD INCLUDE SOME GREAT SEASONAL PIECES...
Warm Weather. Cool Fabrics. S
pring is the time to lighten up! While some clothes in your wardrobe can be “year round,” at least 50 percent should be seasonal. Lighter fabrics — like cottons, silks, seersucker and linen — are cool, comfortable and provide a long-awaited variety, texture and style to your warm weather look. For spring and summer 2012, we’re seeing lots of linen... in shirts, shorts, pants, jackets, suits,
everywhere! Nothing breathes better and is more cooling. Don’t shy away just because it wrinkles. If the piece is beautifully made, wrinkles just add to the look. Take a cue from the Europeans, who wear it all the time! Colors are a bit more vibrant this spring. Mix in some purple, green or orange to liven up your look. Get comfortable. Put the wool in mothballs and bring on the sun!
A sport jacket dresses up a pair of shorts.
Don’t be afraid to wear some color!
Show your wrinkles... wear linen with confidence.
Cool down with a lightweight sportcoat.
GIVING BACK
MAKING A DIFFERENCE IN OUR COMMUNITY
YOUNG ACTIVISTS LIKE DANIEL LURIE AND BRENT JOHNSON LEAD THE WAY FOR A NEW GENERATION.
THE NEW GUARD OF
PHILANTHROPISTS The mission of Wilkes Bashford has always been to be a lot more than a luxury retailer. It has always been equally important to give back to the community we love so much. Over the years, it has been our great joy and our duty to host countless charity events. With the highly anticipated rebirth of our San Francisco store, we look forward to offering local organizations a stunning and centrally located venue for many great fundraising events for generations to come! We are thrilled to count amongst our friends and customers many of the most dynamic young philanthropists in our community today. Daniel Lurie, CEO of Tipping Point Community, has raised over 40 million dollars to fight poverty in the Bay Area since founding the organization in 2005. Tipping Point’s board is committed to
underwriting all operating costs so that 100% of every dollar donated goes to the best poverty-fighting organizations– educating, employing, housing and supporting low-income individuals and families in need. Mr. Lurie also serves on the Board of the Levi Strauss Foundation. Mr. Lurie purchased shoes for his 2006 wedding at Wilkes Bashford and has been a great friend ever since. Brent Johnson, Managing Director at Baker Avenue Asset Management and founder of the Santiago Gold Fund, is another young San Franciscan making an impact. Mr. Johnson is on the Advisory Council of the Omega Boys Club, a youth violence prevention and education program, committed to keeping kids “alive and free.” He admires and enjoys working with Dr. Joseph Marshall to serve the youth
of our community. Mr. Johnson is also on the Steering Committee for the San Francisco Veterans Memorial Project, a cause near and dear to many hearts in our city. He shares the commitment of Wilkes Bashford to “make good on a promise made to veterans over 75 years ago.” On the Wilkes Bashford homefront, General Manager Jeff Garelick leads many philanthropic initiatives. Aside from working closely with Larkin Street Youth Services, he spearheads major donations of clothing to inner city kids who are trying to find work. We look forward to working with and supporting both the “Old Guard” and the “New Guard” of philanthropists in this city for years to come! For more information on Tipping Point, visit www.tippingpoint.org and for more information on Omega, visit www.street-soldiers.org
AT WILKES BASHFORD, WE ARE COMMITTED TO THE CAUSES OF OUR COMMUNITY. Since opening our doors in 1966, it would be impossible to name all of the landmark charity galas and events hosted at and supported by Wilkes Bashford. (Not to mention all the people we’ve dressed in grand style for these events!) Some of the many local organizations we have been involved with are the
San Francisco General Hospital, SF MOMA, Habitat for Humanity, Larkin Street, The Omega Boys Club, The San Francisco Ballet, the San Jose Ballet, College Track, PARCA and the San Francisco Veteran’s Memorial — to name a few. We can’t wait for the first big fundraiser in our newly redesigned Townhouse!
“WITH THE REBIRTH OF OUR STORE COMES A NEW GENERATION OF CUSTOMERS, WHO SHARE OUR COMMITMENT TO MAKING A DIFFERENCE. THIS HAS BEEN A TRADITION AT WILKES BASHFORD AND HAS BEEN PASSED DOWN IN MY FAMILY BY MY GRANDFATHER, MY FATHER AND MY UNCLE.” TYLER MITCHELL
Brent Johnson, Daniel Lurie, Tyler Mitchell and Jeff Garelick, photographed in the new Wilkes Bashford Penthouse, while under construction.
“THERE ARE 1.3 MILLION PEOPLE IN THE BAY AREA WHO STRUGGLE TO MEET THEIR BASIC NEEDS. THE RESPONSIBILITY FOR FIGHTING POVERTY IN THIS COMMUNITY BELONGS TO ALL OF US.” DANIEL LURIE, CEO & FOUNDER, TIPPING POINT
HAPPENINGS
LUNCHEONS & FASHION SHOWS & CHARITY EVENTS & MORE!
TEMPLE ST. CLAIR CELEBRATES 25TH ANNIVERSARY IN SAN FRANCISCO Guests turned out to celebrate renowned jeweler Temple St. Clair’s 25th anniversary with a special trunk show and personal appearance by the designer herself, at Wilkes Bashford on Sutter Street on October 21st. Hosted by Roselyne Swig and Susan Swig, a percentage of sales from the evening went to the San Francisco Contemporary Jewish Museum and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. We also want to congratulate our longtime friend Temple for receiving the well deserved “Hall of Fame” award from the Accessories Council in November.
Below: Temple St. Clair flanked by Judith Murolo and her daughter, Christine
Counterclockwise from top: The evening’s hosts, Roselyne Swig and Susan Swig; Temple St. Clair assisting a customer; Rory Weinstein
essay
PULL IT TOGETHER! THE DIFFERENCE IS IN THE DETAILS. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
ZEGNA
row up,” my fashionable friend sneered over his ceviche, with one eyebrow raised. “You look disheveled, kind of a mess…” “What are you talking about?” I demanded, feeling very sartorially appropriate in trim khakis and a crisp blue oxford shirt. “Your outfit!” he dispatched with disdain. “It’s dull and uncoordinated. It makes you look dated. And clueless!” Requesting specifics about my fashion transgressions, I was told that, for one thing, my belt and shoes had nothing in common. “The belt’s at my waist, the shoes are on my feet: what do they need in common?” I wondered aloud. But after a quick self-assessment, I had to admit that my friend was right. Despite owning plenty of quality clothes, some with designer labels, I never seemed to look quite right. Clearly, my image was far less cool and far more boring than most of the guys in that trendy restaurant. Time to consult the experts. Here’s what I learned: ■ When it comes to accessories, buy the best you can afford. When the accessories look expensive, the outfit looks expensive. ■ The belt and shoes should be as close as possible in color, texture and material.
Socks should match the trouser, rather than the shoe. (But a little whimsy on the feet is acceptable, as is going sans socks in summer.) ■ More than anything else you wear, your tie expresses your personality. Make sure it’s current (three and a half inches, narrower if you’re a rock star) and make sure it’s interesting. Even casual outfits, including jeans, go up a notch with the right neckwear: try a knit or linen tie, or a subtle conversational. ■ Keep your eyewear current. Bring along a friend when you select new glasses and make sure the frames complement your face shape and features. (Bold frames are of the moment, but only if they look good on you!) ■ A handkerchief in your sportcoat pocket adds a touch of elegance. So there it is. Without threatening my masculinity, the simple act of coordinating a suede belt with my suede bucks has instilled newfound confidence. And now that I’m taking a few minutes each morning to accessorize, my life is changing for the better. My girlfriend seems happy to see me. My colleagues are showing respect. Who knew life could be so simple? My patronizing friend even picked up the check at our most recent lunch outing. ■
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at your service CLOSET CLEANING
EXPERTISE
PICTURE PERFECT
In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand, to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. And if you so desire, we will provide a photographic catalogue of your wardrobe for further reference.
Our long-term sales associates have been with us for an average of 16 years, and are passionate about counseling our customers and advising them on all clothing and accessory matters. They are willing to go the extra mile to ensure that your shopping experience is a pleasant one, and they’ll even take a trip to your home or office to give you a personal closet consultation, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe.
Trust our professional sales associates to put together the ultimate outfit and coordinate you from head to toe. To alleviate confusion when you get home, we will happily photograph your ensembles, providing a catalogue you can refer to time after time.
BUTTON UP
GIFT CARDS
COMPLIMENTARY ALTERATIONS
A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suits or outerwear with buttons that need assistance, and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like to see you looking your best, down to the details.
A Wilkes Bashford gift card is the gift that always fits! Our gift cards are available for purchase in store or over the phone, in any denomination. If you can’t make it to the store, just give us a call — we’ll wrap the gift card up and ship it to the recipient for you!
In order to ensure that the fit is just right, we offer complimentary alterations on all of our clothing. Down to the detail of the stitching, we ensure each article is tailored specifically to you. Our onsite team of world-class tailors is ready to assure that you always bring home a perfect fit.
SERVICE IS PARAMOUNT.
COMPLIMENTARY GIFT WRAP
CLOTHING DONATIONS
We offer complimentary gift-wrapping for your purchases, on any day you want. You concentrate on choosing the perfect gift; we’ll do the rest.
Service is important to us, not only in our store, but also in our community. We will help you clear out those unwanted items that have been cluttering up your closet, while providing for a good cause. All discarded items will be donated to a local charity — we will coordinate the donation and make the delivery ourselves.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS
BY APPOINTMENT
Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and ease your shopping experience.
Our personal shoppers are available to make your experience here as effortless as possible. For your convenience, they will pre-select a wardrobe to fit your clothing needs, placing the garments in a private fitting room. Once our associates have learned your style and needs, they can keep an eye out for specific items you might be looking for in the future. Call our stores for more information.
It impacts every facet of our business, from our ability to bring you world-class fashions to the friendly, knowledgeable sales associates who help and guide you. You, our customers and friends, are ultimately at the heart of all that we do, and we strive to constantly exceed your expectations. If for some reason you feel that the level of service we provide does not meet your expectations, please let us know.
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WILKES BASHFORD SPRING 2012