Spring Fashion Issue 2010

ng ri sp N IO SH FA

fa sh ion wa sh i ngt on | spr i ng 2 010

Warming Trends Nautical stripes, sexy florals and arty, abstract prints sail into the summer

Man on the ‘Runway’ Michael Kors talks fashion TV, Michelle O and his new stores Make it Clerk Shop smarter by putting yourself in the store owner’s designer shoes Tails of The City Stylish dogs and their owners hit the catwalk at Fashion for Paws

A PUBLICATION OF

opening credits

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | SPR ING 2010 | 3

Warming Up To Spring Style

FASHION WASHINGTON PUBLISHER

Jenny Abramson

I CALL IT THE TULIP EFFECT. As soon as spring finally

GENERAL MANAGER

pops out in D.C., my fashion cravings suddenly switch from

Julie Gunderson

the most serious of black dresses to hot hues and floral

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

motifs — the brighter the better. It’s an urge I see echoed at

Dan Caccavaro

warm-weather bashes and on the streets of downtown, as EDITOR

exuberant cocktail dresses in botanic

Jennifer Barger

shades and trench coats in cheerful

DESIGN DIRECTOR

stripes burst into bloom, vanquishing

Scott McCarthy

the neutrals of winter.

ART DIRECTOR

Alyce Jones

Lucky for me, designers also went

SENIOR EDITOR

on an effervescent color and pattern

Betsy Lowther

binge this spring, with shipshape nau-

EDITORIAL INTERN

tical stripes, garden-party florals and

Vladislava Kolosova STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER

Marge Ely CONTRIBUTING WRITER

Cathy Alter

LILLYBEE SHOES ($148, SIMPLY SOLES, GEORGETOWN PARK, 3222 M ST. NW; 1-800-909-3679)

edgy abstracts blossoming on dresses,

JODI ARNOLD DRESS ($394, HYSTERIA, 125 S. FAIRFAX ST., ALEXANDRIA; 703548-1615) AND GOLD BRACELET ($9,000, ADELER JEWELERS, 772-E WALKER RD., GREAT FALLS, VA.; 703-759-4076)

shoes and even bags. We captured this ready-for-summer trend in our cover story, shot on location at National Har-

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT

bor in Princes George’s County, Md.

MANAGERS

In this issue, we also dive into the worlds of two of the

Anne Cynamon, Sheila Daw, Diane DuBois

country’s hottest designers: Michael Kors, who opened two

BOUTIQUE ACCOUNT MANAGER

new stores here in recent months, and Phillip Lim, whose

Gayle Pegg

sporty-yet-sweet clothes fly off the racks at local retailers.

ADVERTISING GRAPHIC DESIGN

You’ll also get an eyeful of the party scene with our coverage of well-dressed pets and their

Amanda Crisp,

stylish owners at Fashion for Paws. And for our regular foray into the philosophical side of

Willie Joyner

fashion, writer Cathy Alter examines the dance between shoppers and boutique owners.

ADVERTISING PRODUCTION

Jackie Ellis,

Like every issue of FW, this one should inspire you to soak up the stores, sights and scenes

Tara Shlimowitz,

of this chic capital city. Working on it sparked my own spring must-have list, which includes

Kristin Kato

a pretty flowered frock, a dramatic gold cuff, some nude wedges and — to keep that whole garden groove going — a sunny straw bag. I hope to see you around town indulging in some similarly uplifting styles.

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the season’s hip happenings and hot items

boutique beat

Some women would rather spend money on shoes than four-star restaurants. At least that’s the message conveyed by a glass table set with a banquet of Chie Mihara wedges, Tashkent by Cheyenne booties and Cavage python flats (shown, $750) at Muleh (1831 14th St. nw; 202-667-3440). The Logan Circle fash-furniture boutique just stuck its sexy heel in the door of the footwear biz this season with culty labels like Argila and Coclico to go with its Vivienne Westwood- and Ports 1961heavy stash of clothing. “It was time for us to have cool-looking, wearable shoes to compliment our fashions,” says co-owner Vici Subiyanto. Another new player in the below-the-ankle game: D.C.based Simply Soles, which opened a new shop in an earthy space in Georgetown Park (3222 M Street NW; 1-800-909-3679). Well-priced brands range from owner Kassie Rempel’s Lillybee hot-hued peeptoes to bow-decked Tibi stilettos ($345).

stepping in new addition

A Shirt Change When it comes to style, men face a sartorial conundrum: Stick to classics and risk looking as dull as every other suit in the room; go stylish and get dismissed as a foppish dandy or indie rocker. New Georgetown-based online shirt company Hugh & Crye (hughandcrye.com) offers a middle ground, pairing cool, throwback details — sharp spread collars, punchy plaids and stripes — with Italian fabrics and an inventive slim-fit system designed to take unflattering fullness out of button-downs. But while the line’s debut collection, which includes 11 different styles, priced $65 to $115, boasts fashionable flair, it deliberately steers clear of any flamboyancy. “We ask, ‘Can you see Sinatra wearing that?’” says co-founder Pranav Vora of the brand’s retro, Rat Pack influence. “If the answer is no, it doesn’t go.”

shop talk

On Arrivals The Spanish inspire desire with practical, beautiful designs (see: Manolo Blahnik, Balenciaga, even low-price, high-style temple Zara). Now, top Madrid fashion house Adolfo Dominguez (pictured) has set up a rich, wood-accented shop in The Shops of Wisconsin Place (5310 western Ave., chevy chase; 301880-7288), bringing with it well-priced, work-appropos sheaths, floaty dresses and sleek men’s suits.

Down in Georgetown, Jaclyn Mason is no stranger to the local shopping scene: She’s a longtime resident and the sister to former Wink boutique coowner Lauren. Now, the D.C. native unveils her new jewelry and accessories shop Charm (2910 m st. NW; 202-298-0420) in early May. The high-gloss storefront bursts with baubles from Alexis Bittar’s big bangles to Paula Mendoza’s chunky cocktail rings.

exhibit

Photo Finish Yves Saint Laurent and his pug were recently spotted in the dining room at the Hotel Sofitel (806 15th st. nw; 202-7308800) where Karl Lagerfeld also glowered from behind the concierge desk. No, the Francophile hotel hasn’t been sucked into an ultra-stylish dream world; it’s hosting the photography exhibit “Fashion Stills” through June 13. Thirty-five runway-centric shots by photographers including Derek Hudson, Jean-Marie Périer and Gérard Uféras (shown, chanel 2003 haute couture show)

deck the walls of the sleek downtown property, with Hudson’s image of a cigsucking Kate Moss overseeing the Le Bar cocktail lounge and Cathleen Naundorf’s surrealist photos of Jean Paul Gaultier madonnas gracing the Ici Urban Bistro.

You can buy any of the works through Polkagalerie.com, or just drink them in while sipping a flight of (what else?) champagne at the swanky bar.

15 minutes

The Kors Score

The über-American designer and ‘Project Runway’ judge conquers D.C. Walk into any Hill hearing or G-town bash, and you’ll spot women clad in Michael Kors. The sportswear king, already popular here, makes a bigger footprint this spring by opening Michael Kors Lifestyle stores at the Fashion Centre at Pentagon City and Tysons Corner Center and, by fall, a shop-in-shop at Neiman Marcus at Mazza Gallerie. He chatted about his invasion. jennifer barger

Why is D.C. a good spot for your styles?

Women in Washington want to look great and feel current, but they still understand investment and looking appropriate.

Because of government and politics, they walk a tightrope. My clothes represent that blending of classic and trendy.

Michelle Obama is the kind of woman I think about when I design, the jugglers who have a lot of things going on, but still want to look great.”

The first lady is one of your D.C. fans, right?

Michelle Obama is the kind of woman I think about when I design, the jugglers who have a lot of things going on in their lives, but still want to look great.

Has the economic downturn effected your design process?

michael kors lifestyle store

When the economy is in a tougher state, I’m more self-critical. I look at designs in a pragmatic way. Styles have got to

be glamorous and new.

But at the same time, how many ways can you wear that dress? Can it change seasons or go straight to a cocktail party? That sort of sporty glamour is important to me.

Did “Project Runway” change the way we look at fashion?

Before “Runway,” people thought clothes magically appeared in stores or on your back. It’s given people a greater appreciation for design talent. michael kors by norman jean roy; runway shot by ger ard ufer as/courtesy Polka galerie

f resh

below: step on board in kate spade’s striped “jillian” dress ($355, neiman marcus, 5300 wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-9669700), with drop earrings ($88, Rachelleceline.com), yellow enamel bangles ($10 for 6, charming charlie, 100 american way, national harbor, mD; 240-2730353) and cole haan’s “air lainey” patent wedge pumps ($198, cole haan, 5320 western ave., chevy chase; 301-654-9122).

prints

navigate summer style with watercolor florals, beyond-bright stripes and arty, abstract patterns photos by m a rge ely

• sty led by betsy lowther left: national harbor’s showy sunsets give an extra glow to diane von furstenberg’s ruched cocktail dress ($465, cusp, 3030 m St. nw; 202625-0898). paired with rachelle celine drop earrings ($68) and hammered bangles ($190 for three, all rachelleceline.com), adeler jewelers’ sandburnished gold bracelet ($4,350) and custom cocktail rings ($3,986 and $5,994, all adeler jewelers, 772-E Walker Road, great falls, va; 703-7594076 or adelerjewelers. com) and elie tahari’s gold sandals ($328, the shoe hive, 127 s. fairfax st., alexandria; 703-548-7105).

Above: life imitates art in piazza sempione’s painterly print dress, set against j. seward johnson’s sculpture “the awakening” ($895, Piazza sempione, 5471 wisconsin Ave., chevy chase; 301-656-0581). worn with faux pearl studs ($30, macy’s, 1201 g st. NW; 202-628-6661) and suzanne somersall’s marrakesh cuff ($380, ginger, 7114 bethesda lane, bethesda; 301-664-9242 or suzsomer.com).

warm weather , which took its time arriving this spring,

usually inspires one of two actions in Washingtonians. The first is an overwhelming desire, in this zone of riotious daffodils and emerald green trees, to stop and smell (or plant) the flowers. The other, though somewhat at odds with the first, is to pack your valise and head out of town to some exotic clime — never mind that the local parks and waterfronts (like the one at National Harbor, where we shot this story) beckon so invitingly.

For designers, these disparate hot-month fantasies seemed to merge into one trend: the triumphant arrival of a fleet of prints. This bouquet of flirty florals, African batiks and plucky stripes cruised onto everything from cropped jackets to cool cocktail dresses. “This season, prints just popped,” says Alicia McCaslin of Alexandria’s Hysteria (125 S. Fairfax St.; 703-548-1615), who filled her boutique’s racks with vivid party frocks by Jodi Arnold (see page 3), airy, wood-blocked tunics from Roberta Freymann and striped jersey minis

by Minnie Mortimer. “After such a gray winter — both with the weather and the economy — people are scarfing up big, bright patterned pieces. They’re instant mood-boosters.”

Of course, such mod motifs also make sense for breezy getaways, whether your destination is as far-flung as Morocco or as nearby as National Harbor, a walkable enclave on the Potomac River just south of the city. The site’s busy marina and beachy vibe lent a relaxed backdrop to the season’s mix of breezy, bold styles. “Once the sun comes out, we all want to find those pieces that make you feel like you’re escaping to somewhere exotic,” says McCaslin. “Even if you have no plans to go any farther than your own backyard.” b e tsy low ther

About the Cover

Rhiannon wears Reiss’ striped dress ($315, Reiss, 1254 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-944-8565) with D.C.based jewelry designer Sissy Yates’ “Selene” necklace ($525) and stone-studded “Treasure” bangles ($150 each, all Sissyyates.com). Shot on location at National Harbor, the Potomac River waterfront complex of shops, restaurants and hotels that opened in Prince George’s County in 2008. The site’s marina — a 20-minute water taxi ride from Old Town Alexandria — offers canoe, sailboat and electric boat rentals, as well as fishing tours and river cruises. Nationalharbor.com special thanks: rocell viniard, briean cargill and eric bradley styling assistant: vladislava kolosova photo assistants: fredi reiher, Misty walters hair and makeup: victoria stiles/T.H.E. artist agency model: T.H.E. Artist agency

style setter

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | SPR ING 2010 | 8

haute topic

Counter Intelligent?

The relationship between shoppers and salespeople can be as complex as a romance

The Lim Crowd

Women from D.C. to Tokyo can’t get enough of ChineseAmerican designer Phillip Lim’s feminine, fuss-free clothes WHEN PHILLIP LIM LAUNCHED his eponymous line in 2004, he snared the fashion industry’s short attention span with what seemed like a novel concept: unstuffy, understated clothes that were well-made yet didn’t cost a fortune. Now, 3.1 Phillip Lim (the number represents his age, 31, when the brand launched) is synonymous with detailed-yet-downplayed pieces — flirty tiered skirts, silvery sequined frocks, buttery leather totes — and has expanded to include men’s, women’s and kid’s clothes, with a new lingerie collection added this spring and shoes due to arrive in fall. The New York designer — a favorite locally at retailers like Muleh and Barneys Co-op — sat down for a rare chat. B E TSY LOW THER How would you describe your line?

I define my signature style as “classic with a sense of madness.” Usually with my designs, what you don’t see is what you get. The design details are inherent: things like unusual fabrics, structure, handwork and fit that you might not even notice in the item right away, but will discover as you wear it.

Yet your spring collection includes some very complex dresses (above, front). Was that intentional?

I’m always pushing myself to try something new. On a visit to an art gallery in New York, I became inspired by the abstract Cubism of Picasso’s late work, which inspired

My pet peeve?

Salespeople who don’t know or care about what they sell.”

checking e-mails. From here on, it’s as it comes. Every day is different and often intense — nothing like what they teach you at school! My quiet, creative time comes late in the day, after everyone else has gone home. I might go to an industry event at night, but I’m actually an introvert.

If left to my own devices, I’d rather be alone.

What’s the best part of your routine?

The things I love the most are having coffee and spending time with my French bulldog, Oliver, in the morn-

I define my style as ‘classic with a sense of madness.’ What you don’t see is what you get.” these “collage” dresses. I like the idea of reworking lines, proportions and color in a new way. The technique was brought to the outside, quite literally. But they’re still dresses that you would wear, not something that would be perceived as being too precious.

Take us through a typical day in your life.

I wake up in my SoHo apartment and usually walk to my office in the Garment District. I make the rounds with my assistants, the atelier,

ing. A little caffeine and a little love. My other favorite hobby is a little embarrassing; I love reality TV. “Real Housewives,” “Jersey Shore.” I watch it all.

Where do you find inspiration?

I never know when it might come. I’m actually working on some new shapes now that I stole from a woman I passed one day on the street.

I noticed how she used a rectangular piece of jersey to cover her shoulders and stay warm. It struck me as so simple and pragmatic, yet the result was so modern.

OUTFIT PHOTOS BY MARGE ELY. PHILLIP LIM PORTR AIT BY RYN. ILLUSTR ATION BY MATT COLLINS.

WHEN I WALKED INTO Boutique X&O* (name changed to protect the snarky) a year ago, it was lust at first shop. The booty-boosting Citizen jeans!

The drapey Martin Grant dresses! But though X&O and I went on several expensive, um, “dates” (with me making eyes at McQ skirts or slinking into cashmere sweaters), I broke things off, and not just due to my soaring Amex bill. One day, the owner morphed from a shop girl into a “Mean Girl,” dismissing my question about a $300 blouse with a shrug and a sneer. Feeling like a college kid snubbed at sorority rush, I sprinted out so fast, she probably thought I’d spotted Marc Jacobs across the road.

The dance between shoppers and clerks can be a complex tango. If you take a strong lead (“Why is this dress $600?”), you risk stepping on a retailer’s toes. If the salesperson cuts in and smothers you with attention (or makes you feel ignored), you might never step near their racks again. “I pay attention to their non-verbal communication,” says Gretchen Hitchner, owner of Bethesda’s Ginger (7114 Bethesda Lane; 301664-9242). “Someone who spends her whole time on her cell doesn’t want to be bothered. But if she keeps coming back to one item, I offer suggestions.”

Shopping for clothes is rooted in a desire to improve your appearance and mood, so the person fetching you a belt or telling you if a dress makes you look lumpy often determines whether you go home elated or deflated. “My pet peeve?

Salespeople who don’t know or care about what they sell,” says Marlene Hu Aldaba, owner of Hu’s Wear (2906 M St. NW; 202-343-2020). “When staffers have passion for what they sell, you can feel it.”

Ideally, the person behind the counter boasts a clotheshorse-cum-cheerleader personality like that of my mother, Susan Alter, who has owned the store Artichoke in Connecticut since the 1970s. She credits its longevity to her knowledge of merch and clients.

“I let customers think they’re in charge, when it’s the other way around,” she says. And while the adage suggests that the customer is always right, that’s not always true. My Mom showed a spine as stiff as a Dior crinoline once when she refused a shopper’s return of a frock reeking of Eau de Last Night’s Party.

And besides behaving like, ahem, an adult (no tossing discarded jeans in a heap on the dressing room floor), it also helps if browsers listen to the folks behind the counter instead of assuming that “Can I help you?” translates as “Are you stealing that?”

“Often, we know which certain designers cut clothes for specific body types,” says Hitchner.

Letting a clerk in on your likes, dislikes or gripes about your thighs helps them serve you better and elevates the retail experience to something like friendship, especially at small stores. “Boutique owners cherish customers because they can’t rely on foot traffic to bring in business like big stores can,” says Freeman Hall, author of “Retail Hell” ($23, Adams).

Getting in good with store folk might even net you a superhero for fashion emergencies. “I once got a panicked phone call from a customer who had snagged the zipper of her dress as she walked into an event,” recalls Fabiana Zelaya, owner of Daisy Too (4940 St. Elmo Ave., Bethesda; 301-656-2280). “I closed the store, threw dresses in the car, drove downtown to the reception and met her in the bathroom. She tried them on until she found one that fit.” CATHY ALTER

ABOVE: PHILLP LIM. ABOVE, TOP (FROM LEFT): CREAM COLLAGE DRESS ($2,2OO; CALL 212-334-1600 FOR ORDERING INFO); CROC MOTIF CREWNECK ($325) AND RA RA SKIRT($725, BOTH MULEH, 1831 14TH ST. NW; 202-6673440); NAVY COLLAGE DRESS ($2,OOO; CALL 212-334-1600); SEQUIN TANK DRESS ($895, MULEH)

You’ve just added lingerie to your brand and are introducing shoes this fall. What’s your favorite thing to design?

Right now, it’s the shoes.

They require the same precision and technique as dressmaking, but instead of draping, I sculpt. We’ll offer a complete shoe wardrobe, because I think that if you can’t do it right, then you shouldn’t do it. It’s just not fair to the customer. I’m a customer myself, and I’m always putting myself in that mindset.

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | SPR ING 2010 | 9

scene stealers the best of who, what and wear at the capital’s poshest parties

Carlos Alvarez-Aranyos writer, political consultant

Aureta Thomollari consultant, blogger at aureta.typepad.com

Armon D. Harris coo, megadata technology

Katie Rost model/tv personality

Alex Merriman pr rep, queen bee designs

Dwayne Brice co-founder, d&a luxury consulting

Fashion for Paws EMBASSY OF ITALY, APRIL 10

DOGS AND DESIGNER STYLES

padded down the runway at the third annual Fashion for Paws fundraiser, which drew more than 1,300 cocktail wear-clad animal lovers (along with some furry faces) to benefit the Washington Humane Society. Local notables— including account exec Tiffany Carter (above, with hound mix Kali), environmentalist Philippe Cousteau, former White House press secretary Dana Perino and area newshounds Angie Goff and Will Thomas — strolled the, er, catwalk in bright spring fashions alongside a lineup of awwinspiring canines. B E TSY LOW THER

We love: The policy advisor — in a custom suit — had one of the evening’s most coveted accessories: his 5-yearold cocker spaniel/German shepherd mix, Alfie, who also walked the runway.

On her: Alexander McQueen cape, Moschino beaded dress, Gucci python heels.

We love: his eye-popping red and white palette, which blended a bright mix of patterns and solids, and her simple-yet-chic French Connection floral mini.

Steal this look: Her sleek metallic gold Shoshanna dress required little extra adornment, while classic red lipstick added a retroglam finishing touch.

On him: A.P.C. jacket, Dries Van Noten scarf, Surface to Air shirt, Helmut Lang cropped pants, Lanvin shoes.

PHOTOS BY MARGE ELY

What’s in Store

calendar of advertiser and editorial fashion selections

may 2010 May 5 — Hu’s Wear DECADESTWO vintage designer fashion event from 6-9 p.m. 2906 M St. NW, Washington D.C. 20007; 202-342-2020; www.hushoes.com May 6 — Neiman Marcus Oscar de la Renta personal appearance – RSVP only – 11 a.m., Mazza Gallerie, 5300 Wisconsin Ave., N.W., Washington D.C. 20015; 202-274-3911; www.neimanmarcus.com

May 7 — Liljenquist & Beckstead hosts a Roberto Coin trunk show from 3-7 p.m. Light refreshments will be served.

Tysons Galleria, 2001 International Drive, McLean VA 22102; 703-749-1200; www.liljenquist.com

the Apparel Manufacturing and Fashion Business Caucus Congressional Co-Chairs. Please see the Web Site for more details; www.gwfcc.org.

May 22 — Macy’s designer Rachel Roy exclusive event from 2-4 p.m. Open to the public. Shoppers will get the chance to meet Rachel and see the collections. Tysons Corner Center, 8000 Tysons Corner Center, McLean VA 22102; 703-893-4900; www.macys.com

May 20 — Join The Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce for National Advocacy Day, beginning with breakfast, meetings and a luncheon on Capitol Hill from 8 a.m.-2 p.m., and ending with the State of Style Benefit at The District in Adams Morgan from 6-9 p.m. Please see the Web site for more details; www.gwfcc.org

june 2010

May 21 — Come out for DC Advocacy Day from 9 a.m.-1 p.m. at the City Council Building, hosted by The Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce and

June 2 — Macy’s Sip & Scan Registry event. Join Macy’s Wedding & Gift Registry at 7 p.m. for fun beverages, hors d’oeuvres and experts that can help you create your dream

registry. The Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, 100 S. Hayes St., Arlington VA 22202; 703-412-8305; www.macys.com June 12-13 — Come out to the National Harbor for The Food and Wine Festival. Enjoy great food, wine, beer, spirits, music and appearances by local and national cuilinary celebs. Please see the Web site for more details; www.foodandwinenh.com June 18 — Georgetown Gallery Gaze celebrates Georgetown’s vibrant cultural community with its monthly Art Walk. Every third Friday of the month, participating galleries and stores — from jewelry makers to furniture showrooms — offer extended hours from 5-8 p.m. plus special events and music. Please see the Web site for more details; www. georgetowngallerygaze.com

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FASHION WASHINGTON MAGAZINE (5/5 Issue)- Single

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