Early Winter Fashion 2008

f a s h i o n w a s h i n g t o n | NO V E M B E R 2 0 0 8

Party Lines Sweeping trains, Grecian draping and fit-for-a-princess lace lend the season’s ballgowns a classical air

The Ice Man Talketh Hockey’s Alex Ovechkin chats about sharp suits

Original Skins Leather dresses go glam in rich hues and soft shapes A PUBLICATION OF

Wizard of Wardrobe Isaac Mizrahi wants to make over your closet

NEIMAN MARCUS IS THE ONE AND ONLY DESTINATION TO SEEK OUT AND SHOP THIS SEASON’S MOST STYLISH, SOUGHT-AFTER SHOES. MAZZA GALLERIE TYSONS GALLERIA NEIMANMARCUS.COM

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inside 11.2008

Legends of the Ball Greek-goddess draping, european lace and other classical elements make fall’s formal gowns sparkle

Style Setter Any woman can be a fashionista if she heeds the up-to-thesecond advice in Isaac Mizrahi’s new book

Obsessed By Dress Skinny belts, sleeveless coats, necklaces by the score — our advice columnist can’t be stumped by fall’s hard-to-wear trends

Piece Talk Leather dresses aren’t just for rock stars.

This season’s refined hide numbers can sub for your little black you-know-what

Haute Topic

Scene Stealers

A thrown-on scarf, vintage shoes and a designer frock equals effortless chic — but can non-celebs achieve it?

On the trail of the fash pack at FW’s launch in G-town and the glam-yetgreen Fashion Fights Poverty show

Lush Life Feathers wing it onto fall accessories, bling from past eras glimmers in Baltimore, and an ultra-luxe Italian label brings its woven wonders to Tysons Galleria

Take Five Washington Capitals MVP and budding designer Alex Ovechkin on scoring his sartorial goals

Which one gets your vote at our Inaugural Gown Event?

Carolina Herrera Zac Posen Valentino Yves Saint Laurent Bill Blass Peggy Jennings Carlos Miele Lanvin Reem Acra Zang Toi Carmen Marc Valvo Isaac Mizrahi Marchesa Badgley Mischka Stephen Yearick Catherine Regehr Kevan Hall Monique Lhuillier Pamella Roland Robert Danes

Thursday thru Saturday November 13, 14 & 15

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FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | NOV EMBER 2008 | 6

opening credits

A Stylish Shift MAYBE IT’S THE chilly air, which has Washingtonians bundling up in swanky new coats. Or perhaps it’s the thought that The White House will soon be inhabited not only by a new president, but also by a spouse who might be termed the First Fashionista. One thing’s for sure, the D.C. area feels like it’s going through a stylish sea change. That’s one of the reasons why Washington Post Media launched FW. You’re holding the second issue, and in 2009, you’ll find us every month on top of nearly 100,000 home-delivered copies of The Washington Post as well as at shops, hotels and restaurants around the region.

This month, with inaugural and holiday parties on our minds, we sussed out the brightest ballgowns, capturing them on location among the canvases and columns of the Corcoran Gallery of Art. We also show and tell how you can revamp your wardrobe with a leather dress, feathered pumps or tips from design demigod Isaac Mizrahi. After all, if the city is undergoing a style transformation, why not you too?

JENNIFER BA RGER, EDITOR, FASHION WASHINGTON

FASHION WASHINGTON

PUBLISHER Jenny Abramson

SALES MANAGER Brian Gilman

GENERAL MANAGER Julie Gunderson

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Dan Caccavaro

Anne Cynamon, Sheila Daw, Diane DuBois BOUTIQUE ACCOUNT MANAGER

EDITOR Jennifer Barger DESIGN DIRECTOR Scott McCarthy ART DIRECTOR Alyce Jones SENIOR EDITOR Betsy Lowther CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Gayle Pegg ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT

Linda Baquet ADVERTISING GRAPHIC DESIGN

Willie Joyner, Joseph Wadsworth

Annie Lou Bayly Berman, Kate Gibbs

ADVERTISING PRODUCTION

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Ashley Joy Parker

Leigh Updike Braun, Jackie Ellis,

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Marge Ely

Kiara Kerwin, Tara Shlimowitz

ADVERTISING: (202) 334-5228, 5224, 5226

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From Our Timeless Collection of Fabulous Period and Estate Jewelry

take five

Art Deco

Pampillonia continually purchases fine jewelry: a single piece, or an entire estate.

Good to Goal washington capitals left wing Alex Ovechkin, the NHL’s MVP and top scorer, has a lot more going on than just hat tricks. The Moscow-born hockey hunk just came out with his own line of designer street wear, helping him look as cool off the ice as on. We caught up with him between goals to get his style game plan. A nnie Lo u Bay ly B erm a n

How would you describe your personal style?

Casual and cool. I like good jeans, interesting T-shirts — things that you can wear and be yourself.

What’s in your dream closet?

Everything Dolce & Gabbana. But I also really like Armani, Gucci, Versace, Louis Vuitton and Hugo Boss. And definitely shoes.

What are some places in D.C. where you shop?

Tysons Corner and the Collection at Chevy Chase. And I like walking around Georgetown. It’s fun to go with friends and see what’s out there.

What do you tell your teammates to wear to look stylish when not in uniform?

First, I would say buy a nice new suit. A black one would look really good with a pink shirt, pink tie and gray shoes.

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What’s one thing that can really pull an outfit together?

For a woman, I would say a really great purse. For men, nice shoes.

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Effortless style to me is not having to own everything designer and not having to own every trend item.”

So Divinely Disheveled We’re obsessed with tossed-together chic, but is such breezy style an urban myth?

You know the type: that confident, eye-catching woman who throws together a slouchy scarf, scrunchy boots and a flirty dress, somehow coming across as natural as Uma Thurman and as original as Carrie Bradshaw. Such nonchalant fashionistas seem to be everywhere, looking gorgeously unkempt in their messy chignons and smoky eyeliner. They transcend mere accolades like “stylish” or “well-dressed,” since those are things that can be bought with a credit card. Instead, these women achieve something better: “effortless chic.”

But is this just a catch phrase? Maybe, until you think of fash pack icons like Kate Moss and Sienna Miller, whose haphazard mix of designer pieces and secondhand finds has put them atop the best-dressed list. It feels unfair to those of us who prod our pesky cowlicks and stubborn thighs into some semblance of polished. Having to also incorporate an “I-just-threw-this-on flair” seems cruel.

“I hate the term ‘effortless style.’ It’s unattainable,” says Scott Schuman, a.k.a. jet-setting street-fashion blogger The Sartorialist (Thesartorialist.blog spot.com), whose images of style setters — in rumpled shirts, baggy trousers and generally unstudied ensembles — epitomize the concept. “Looking stylish without having to try is along the lines of the ‘dietless diet.’ It’s just not that easy.”

Even D.C., with its pearls and careful coifs, isn’t immune. “Many people here are perfectly manicured and put real effort into their look,” says Rachel Cothran, who snaps local street styles (pictured, above) for her blog, Projectbeltway.com.

“But there’s also a group mixing up different periods and unique pieces.”

haute topic

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Who’s most to blame for the rise of this insouciant attitude? Maybe it’s Hollywood stylist Rachel Zoe, whose A-list clients (Jennifer Garner, Cameron Diaz) have so perfectly channeled her signature undone glam that they’re now collectively referred to as “Zoebots.” “Effortless style to me is not having to own everything designer and not having to own every trend item,” says Zoe. “It’s about mixing designer and vintage, throwing something together in five minutes and still looking fabulous. Don’t imitate, interpret.”

Of course, for Zoe, who has a famously huge closet and designers like DVF and de la Renta on speed-dial, it’s easy being breezy. But while watching her recent Bravo reality show, “The Rachel Zoe Project,” I feel a burst of glee upon discovering that her long, slightly bedhead-y locks (a staple of her set) actually require much time spent in uncomfortable-looking, oversized curlers.

For Oriana Khatso, who stocks her Dupont Circle shop, Terra (1706 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-232-8581), with items that epitomize that same “effortless style,” the idea isn’t an abstract goal, just one that requires work. “It would be nice if there was instant synchronicity between who you are and what you’re wearing, but in reality, it’s something you have to learn.” she says. “It can be time-consuming, but the result is that you no longer have to think about what looks great.”

Khatso’s advice makes sense: In a fast-fashion world, it’s easy to get swept up in what’s new (hats! platforms! leggings!) and not think hard about whether those skinny jeans actually look good. “Most of us are not paying enough attention to what we buy,” says Schuman. “Those with natural style put so much thought into each purchase that, by the time they’ve put it on, they’re not self-conscious. That’s what really comes through.” b e tsy low ther photos by r achel cothr an

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Inde Mystérieuse collection

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | NOV EMBER 2008 | 11

feather report ON TREND

Birds do it — show off their glorious plumage to attract attention — and designers this fall seem to think you should too. How else to explain the peacock feathers, ostrich fluff and pheasant quills decking out cloches at Proper Topper (3213 P ST. NW; 202-333-6200), T-shirts at Intermix (3222 M ST. NW; 202-298-8080) and Tibi pumps at The Little Shoe Box (SHOWN, $420, 7134 BETHESDA LANE, BETHESDA; 301-654-7463). “They’re so graceful and feminine, and they add a little texture,” says Emilie Blaze, co-owner of The Little Shoe Box. “They mix well with satin or lizard skin. It’s a layered effect.” Options veer from Indian-princessy earrings from Alex and Ani to Michael Tepperson’s flapper-gone-goth satin clutch ($960, ELEMENTSCHICAGO.COM) decked with inky rooster plumes. Still, such a display of natural finery might not be suited for workdays. “They aren’t what I’d wear to the courtroom,” laughs Blaze.

DATEBOOK

Through the Past Brightly If a pack of bling-mad women from the past couple of thousand years unloaded their gem boxes, the results might be “Bedazzled: 5,000 Years of Jewelry,” at Baltimore’s Walters Art Museum (600 N. CHARLES ST.; 410-547-9000; THEWALTERS.ORG) through Jan. 4. Sparklers from bygone eras range from a gold cuff found in an ancient Greek tomb to Tiffany & Co.’s circa-1900 iris brooch (shown) inset with 139 sapphires, diamonds and other stones. All that glitters looks grand, but a thought-provoking section on rings shows how adornments also signify adoration, mourning and even military might.

NEW STORE

Ciao Wow To some, Italian chic means flashy silk prints (Robert Cavalli) and cut-down-to-there cocktail gowns (Donatella Versace). But at the new Tysons Galleria outpost of Vicenza-based Bottega Veneta (2001 INTERNATIONAL DRIVE; 703-442-3138), understated luxury rules the space (ultra suede-covered walls, amber-lit vitrines) as well as the designs. The company’s trademark intrecciato woven leathers turn up on palm-sized clutches (SHOWN, $1,100), men’s wallets and earth-hued women’s totes ($5,800) big enough for a loaf (or two) of ciabatta. Women’s shoes and jewelry also make a dolce showing, as in jewel-toned booties ($990) and a necklace of faceted amethyst, onyx and tiger’s eye. Either would add punch to one of the sleek, primarily black dresses or suits ($2,000-$3,000) sold here too.

NEW DESIGNER

Dark Victory HOT ITEM

Bowing In In the five years since Ethan Drath opened his prep-cool temple, Sherman Pickey (1647 WISCONSIN AVE. NW; 202-333-4212), he’s noticed “the sales of neckwear have definitely been on the decline.” That is, except for the cheeky bow tie, which, says Drath, “has been doing really well for us, especially with this very visible minority of guys who like them.” This season’s R. Hanauer silk designs (SHOWN, $65) blend what Drath calls “tried and true Southern styling” with spiffy patterns — maroon lions on a field of navy, a Highland fling-ish black, blue and khaki plaid and innumerable combinations of stripes. Still, you’ll need a bit of know-how to dandy up in one. Says Drath, “I get guys coming by the store in a panic before parties, saying, ‘Can you tie this for me?’”

A hip-grazing, mustard wool riding jacket. A ruffled, silk chiffon dress in widow’s black. A frock with an ombre silk skirt and welltailored woolen bodice (SHOWN, $598). The women’s clothing by Charles & Victoria possesses an edgy, Victorians-gone-boho charm. Designed in Brooklyn by Abigail Lutz and Rachel Ancliffe, the noirish line just showed up on the racks at Dupont Circle’s Terra (1706 CONNECTICUT AVE. NW; 202-

232-8581). It’s all cozy-yet-cutting-

edge stuff that’d work with riding boots or killer pumps, depending on your mood. “We’re trying for a masculine-feminine combination,” says Ancliffe. “Like a juxtaposition of menswear suiting and draped, flowing pieces.”

PIN: TIFFANY & CO., AMERICAN, IRIS CORSAGE ORNAMENT, CA. 1900/ WALTERS ART MUSEUM, BALTIMORE

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | nov ember 2008 | 12

american painter frederic edwin church's "niagara" provides an apropos background for reem acra's flowing one-shouldered silk gown with gold accents ($3,750, neiman marcus, tysons galleria, mclean, Va; 703-761-1600), paired with a rose-gold pearl ring, rose-gold diamond band ring and oxidized silver and diamond cuff bracelet ($4,100, $5,300 and price upon request, i. gorman jewelers, 1133 20th st. nw; 202-775-8544).

legends of the ball

Classy, classical details — Grecian draping, lace bodices, jewel-toned silks and palace-worthy trains — make unforgettable gowns for winter galas and upcoming inaugural balls photos by m a rge ely | st yling by n eely ba r n w ell dy k shor n

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | nov ember 2008 | 14

of President John F. Kennedy’s inaugural ball in January of 1961, the weather was cold and frightful. But party-goers agreed that first lady Jacqueline's dress — a sleeveless ivory silk sheath she’d designed herself and had made at Bergdorf Goodman — was delightful in both its simplicity and elegance. Such all-American, clean-lined ballgowns by homegrown names like Oleg Cassini and Halston came to define her Grace Kelly-goes-to-Washington panache. In a letter to Cassini detailing her wardrobe wants, Kennedy said she wanted, “some pretty, long evening dresses suitable for big official dinners. You know the kind I like: a covered-up look … simple and young."

This winter, the same classicism championed by Kennedy also swooped onto store racks, bringing “are-we-in-Athens?” Grecian-draped gowns, strapless column dresses of retro silk shantung and the return of slightly covered-up necklines. (They almost echo the Beaux Arts grandeur of the Corcoran Gallery of Art, where this story was shot.) Such styles seem ideal for holiday gala-goers and those headed to an inaugural ball on Jan. 20. “Designers and customers will always love Jackie O,” says boutique owner Harriet Kassman, who has been selling fete wear to Washingtonians since 1941. “If they put on a gown and it’s not embellished, they think of her.”

But don’t expect to show up at a formal event and see everyone outfitted in vintage. “The looks are Old World, but they have new twists," says Liberty Jones, spokeswoman for Neiman Marcus in Chevy Chase (which is, helpfully, operating a last-minute inaugural gown, accessory and tuxedo shop at the Mandarin Oriental from Jan. 16-20). “Norman Ambrose is doing a bunch of dresses in brocade and old lace, but they have modern shapes.” Also decidedly new millennial: Roland Mouret’s stark, one-shouldered dress in buttercup yellow and Carmen Marc Valvo’s strapless column of crinkled ruffles in a bronze hue.

If you're presidential party-hopping, there are a few fashion do’s and don’ts to keep in mind. “Wear comfortable shoes, since you’ll be standing a lot,” says Kassman. And since inaugural balls tend to get crowded, leave the Scarlett O'Hara-wide skirt for another enchanted evening. When in doubt, ask yourself, “What would Jackie do?” “She was always so simple, she never wore a garnish,” says Kassman. Because really, the star of the night (besides the new president), should be you, not some overly sequined frock. jennifer barger

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the corcoran's GILDED salon doré, an 18th-century room that was once part of the regal parisian residence HOTEL CLERMONT, gleams behind a pamella roland taffeta dress ($2,695, rizik's, 1100 Connecticut Ave. nw #2; 202-223-4050) and eye-popping pura lopez satin heels ($325, the little shoe box, 7134 bethesda lane, bethesda; 301-654-7463). a vintage diamond bracelet and pearl and diamond ring ($40,000 and $4,000, tiny jewel box, 1147 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202-393-2747) add soft sparkle.

channel the salon's quintessentially french glamour with perfectly muted metallics, like this embroidered and beaded nicole miller empire-waist gown ($640, nicole miller, tysons Galleria, mclean, va; 703-821-1630) and vintage round drop earrings ($4,200, tiny jewel box).

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painter albert bierstadt's "the last of the buffalo" is as quietly dramatic as angel sanchez's silk gown with beading ($6,490, saks fifth avenue, 5510 WISCONSIN BLVD., chevy chase, md; 301-907-3900), also elegant: A thin diamond bracelet and oversized strand of pearls with a pave diamond clasp (price upon request, I. Gorman jewelers).

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a deep jewel tone is the ideal pairing for major gems. this royal purple melinda eng silk dress ($1,750, harriet kassman, mazza gallerie, 5300 wisconsin ave. nw; 202-363-1870) perfectly plays up a pink sapphire and diamond "petillante" pendant necklace and white gold and diamond "socrate" ring ($68,000 and $26,400, van cleef & arpels, 5454 wisconsin ave. nw, chevy chase, md; 301-654-5449).

About the Cover Rashida wears a silk Pamella Roland gown ($5,995, Saks Jandel, 5510 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 301-652-2250) on the main interior staircase at the Corcoran Gallery of Art. William Wilson Corcoran founded this, the capital's first gallery of art, in 1874 in the building that's now the Renwick Gallery. His cache of American paintings and sculpture didn't move into its current digs until 1897, after Corcoran’s death.

The Beaux Arts palace now holds works by big names from Gilbert Stuart to Andy Warhol, as well as changing exhibits like the current “Richard Avedon: Portraits of Power.” The museum also hosts numerous events throughout the year, including a lecture by top-selling jeweler David Yurman on Nov. 18 and the annual Corcoran Ball on April 17, 2009. 500 17th St. NW, 202-639-1700; Corcoran.org shot on location, the corcoran gallery of art special thanks to kristin guiter styling assistant: ashley joy parker photo assistants: Fredi Reiher, Beverly Nazaroff Hair and makeup: Kathy Aragon/T.H.E. Artist Agency model: ModeLogic for Wilhelmina Models

MICHAEL KORS

Discover more. nordstrom.com Tysons Corner Center, 8075 Tysons Corner Center, McLean, VA 703.761.1121. Towson Town Center, 700 Fairmount Avenue, Towson, MD 410.296.2111.

The Fashion Centre at Pentagon City, 1400 South Hayes Street, Arlington, VA 703.415.1121.

obsessed by dress

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | nov ember 2008 | 19

style advice by betsy lowther

I see women successfully wearing more than one necklace at a time, but when I attempt to do this, I look like I’m playing dress-up. What’s the solution?

Now, we see nothing wrong with playing a little dress-up sometimes — as long as the end result is more Holly Golightly than Halloween.

Layered necklaces are one of the trickiest trends to pull off this year. Overdo it, and you come precipitously close to Mr. T or Flavor Flav territory. The key to the look? Distinctive pieces that hang at different lengths. Givenchy’s amped-up accessories on the fall runway make a good case study for putting on two to three metal chains or pendant necklaces in various sizes or lengths. Or, for a more subtle option, loop several long, beaded necklaces for a piled-up-but-polished approach. And if you still can’t get it quite right, consider a ready-made version: Plenty of jewelry labels, including D.C.’s own Realm by Jesse Walker (Realmbyjessewalker.com), hawk single necklaces that give the appearance that you’ve pulled together multiple pieces. Don’t worry, we won’t say a word.

I love the look of a skinny belt, but I can’t figure out if it should sit a little lower on my upper hips, or be cinched around my actual waistline. And can I wear one with a plain cotton T-shirt, or should I save it for a sweater or blouse?

Ah, belts. Worn correctly, they create an attractive silhouette; get them wrong and … ugh. We asked Nanette Lepore, in town feting her new Chevy Chase store (5449 Wisconsin Ave.; 301-657-1515), for help, since her designs often incorporate wellproportioned waistlines. “I love skinny belts, because they work for almost all body types,” she says. “If you have an hourglass figure, they accentuate your small waist. If you’ve got a boy shape, they create the illusion of curves.” Lepore loops belts around everything from menswearish blazers to sleek sheaths. But for the fettucini-width styles, cinch at the natural waistline. As for the tee debate, thin belts work best with more substantial tops, say, sweaters or blouses. And remember that the fit of the belt should be snug but not overly tight: Aim for shapely, not sausage-y.

So many jackets right now are short-sleeved.

What am I supposed to wear underneath? Are long sleeves OK? Once the weather turns chilly, won’t my forearms get cold?

We can’t help but imagine a scene, just before the fashion shows each season, where Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld and those cute Proenza Schouler boys secretly meet to decide which utterly impractical item they’ll champion as a trend (see: transparent handbags, peep-toe booties).

This fall, they seem to have agreed on the shortsleeved coat: chic in appearance, yet amazingly useless for actually keeping you snug. Still — at least until the weather gets truly wintry — cropped coats can be a playful way to cover up a little. “I love them, because they work on their own or with a layered look, which is still big this year,” says Gretchen Hitchner, owner of Bethesda Row boutique Ginger (7114 Bethesda Lane, Bethesda; 301-664-9242), which stocks versions from lines like Pink Tartan and Eva Franco. Pair your cropped topper with a simple, fitted long-sleeved top; anything too blousy or bulky will look awkward flapping out from those abbreviated arms. If layers alone won’t keep you toasty, add a pair of elbow-length gloves. We love the elegant cashmere ones at Pirjo (4821 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda; 301-986-1775), which blend practicality with a bit of pin-up girl glamour. Take that, designers! You can’t beat us. Though spring 2009’s MC Hammer-style harem pants are already keeping us up nights.

have a style dilemma or a query about how to wear something? e-mail our sartorial pro at advice@fashionwashington.com. for live answers, join our chat at noon on nov. 14 at fashionwashington.com/livechat.html.

Illustr ation by Sydney VanDyke /Art Department

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piece talk

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | NOV EMBER 2008 | 20

Versace leather dress ($4,120, select Nordstrom stores) Gellner rough-cut diamond, pearl and gemstone necklaces ($2,100-$3,650, I. Gorman, 1133 20th St. NW; 202-775-8544)

Sita Murt dress ($735, Betsy Fisher, 1224 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-785-1975 Wendy Nichol cuff ($300, Ravinstyle.com) Hue lace tights ($18, Nordstrom)

Hides in Plain Sight Not with the band?

You can still rock one of fall’s leather frocks

THE LAST TIME so many leather dresses strutted down

the runway, Pat Benatar and Joan Jett dominated the charts. But you don’t have to love rock ’n’ roll style to wear one of this season’s Coldplay-soft gowns. That’s because technology has made hides smoother, thinner and easier for designers to stitch into sheaths, A-lines and mod minidresses. Some houses, like John Paul Gaultier, combined strips of black calfskin with wool for a futuristic, “Blade Runner” vibe. Other designers dyed hides rich hues — indigo, purple — before whipping them into styles that are more ladies-wholunch than gals-who-live-in-caves. “If the dress is done well, in a sleek shape, then leather becomes just another fabric,” says Betsy Fisher, owner of the Dupont Circle boutique by the same name.

“It can be sporty and fun.”

The first rule when donning calfskin neck-to-knee or so? Channel Coco Chanel, not Xena, Warrior Princess. Avoid accessories that come across as costumey — biker boots, turquoise jewelry, anything with feathers. “Don’t be too matched,” says D.C. stylist Elizabeth Gibbens (Bayoumuse.com). “Wear a leather dress with something feminine, like a handknit cardigan.” Also nice, and unexpected: layering a tissue-weight turtleneck underneath.

Putting leather shoes with one of these fierce frocks works too, as long as the color and texture aren’t the same as the dress. Think a plum suede slingback with a black beauty. As for jewelry? “I like the idea of not-so-traditional pearls,” says Gibbens. The effect will be cozy and pretty, not rough and tumble. Because, really, did you want to ride a Harley in a dress? JENNIFER BARGER

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style setter

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | NOV EMBER 2008 | 22

Hunting High and Low Your closet can be a style goldmine or landmine.

In his new book, designer Isaac Mizrahi tells women how to fill — and edit — their modern wardrobes DONNA. RALPH. MARC. The list of one-named wonders in the fashion world is shorter than a Phillip Lim micro mini, and Isaac, as in Mizrahi, definitely makes the cut. The energetic designer does everything from couture ballgowns to cheap chic dresses for Target (and, come 2009, Liz Claiborne). He famously pulled back the curtain on Fashion Week in the film “Unzipped.” Now he cuts through the generic advice inherent in makeover manuals with a new book, “How to Have Style” ($30, Gotham Books). In it, he helps a dozen ordinary women assess their wardrobes, in the process coming up with original and approachable “What do I wear?” solutions. JENNIFER BARGER

What separates “How to Have Style” from the slew of makeover books out there?

So, I didn’t consider other style books before doing it. I didn’t even realize there was such a glut. I just thought about issues in women’s lives — fit, color, editing their closets — and started to talk about them. I didn’t want to be pedantic and write a bunch of rules. Makeover programs make me sick! At the end, these women look like those things you stick your heads through on Coney Island.

You profile a dozen women in the book, from a fiftysomething socialite to a 27-year-old PR newbie. Any common style conundrums?

The biggest problem across the board was how they looked at themselves in the mirror. So, I took their physical problems one at a time. The subtext was always, “How do I look thinner, taller or younger?” But my answer seems to always be, let’s see about how you look at yourself first.

Everyone needs to manage their expectations about their looks. You have to start by realizing that you aren’t Reese Witherspoon.

How do you see yourself? Do you need any of the advice in this book?

I look at myself differently every day! Even if it’s worse than I looked yesterday, because I didn’t shave and ate a pack of cookies.

I’m better than a politician; I’m a designer. The only thing I’m going to sell you is clothes that give you value.”

In the book, you suggest everyone make up their own inspiration board of photos, pieces of material and other things that spark their imaginations. How can that help them dress more stylishly?

I’ve had a board like that in my kitchen since I moved into my apartment 20 years ago. I keep scraps of things that motivate me on it, whether it’s a party invitation or a swatch of fabric. It’s the way I organize my soul, and I think everyone should do that. In order to have style, you have to be able to show what exactly that is.

Your makeover prescriptions seem to involve not shopping more, but shopping smarter. Why is that?

I honestly think that a better word for shopping now is collecting. A collector looks and looks and studies but very rarely buys. Do you need to own every painting you love?

Do you really have to own every designer handbag? But if you get good at this sort of collecting, even an impulse buy makes sense.

What are the pieces no woman should be without this season?

Big aggressive shoes of some kind. God help me, a short skirt. I do think everyone needs one again. A great jacket — maybe a great, oversized blazer with a bigger shoulder.

This sweater thing I’m tired of.

Is there any form of shopping that you don’t excel at?

I didn’t immediately get flea marketing. I have friends who go, and they get up at 4 in the morning — it’s insane!

You design for both the low-end market [Target, and soon, Liz Claiborne] and the high-end. How does the process differ?

In my creative process, there is very little difference. I always think that quality starts with ideas, with the color of something. If you get the idea right, the piece will be great whether you pay $100 or $100,000. The difference is a level of neurosis. What I try to do is give a woman the most she can get for the money she is paying. And for my couture line, I pour over that stuff like nobody’s business.

It’s like being loyal to a political party — you leave it to me, because you trust me. And actually, I’m better than a politician; I’m a designer. The only thing I’m going to sell you is clothes that give you value.

PHOTOS BY JASON FR ANK ROTHENBERG © 2008/ ”HOW TO HAVE ST YLE ” BY ISA AC MIZR AHI, GOTHAM BOOKS

scene stealers

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | nov ember 2008 | 24

Left: Lisa Anderson, Louis Everard and Jennifer Nygard.

Center: Washington Post Media CEO and Publisher Katharine Weymouth, Alan Greenspan and NBC’s Andrea Mitchell. Right: D.C. First Lady Michelle Fenty accepting the 2008 FW Award for D.C.’s Most Fashionable.

FW Launch Party georgetown, sept. 15, 2008 mod floral arrangements, eclectic nibbles and a loungey vibe (neon lights, sleek sofas) set the scene for the FW Launch Party, hosted by former Washington Post executive editor Ben Bradlee and his wife, Sally Quinn, at their Georgetown home with Washington Post Media CEO and Post Publisher Katharine Weymouth. Models dressed in some of the femme fatale looks from the first issue of FW brought pages to life (left). A crowd of A-listers — NBC’s Norah O’Donnell and Andrea Mitchell, members of the Washington Capitals and countless style bloggers — gathered under a glam tent, where FW editor Jennifer Barger presented D.C. First Lady Michelle Fenty the first-ever FW Award for D.C.’s Most Fashionable. ashley joy parker

Top: Washington Capitals players Nicklas Backstrom, Brooks Laich and Mike Green. Center: Sissy and Angus Yates and actress Ali Wentworth. Bottom: The well-dressed feet of Muleh’s Christopher Reiter.

Left: Debbie Dingell, NBC’s Norah O’Donnell, Sally Quinn and Chef Geoff Tracy.

Right: James Packard-Gomez and Erwin Gomez of Georgetown’s Erwin Gomez Salon & Spa.

all photos by l awrence luk

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Center: Shireen Husain tries on a necklace with Meg Schiffman (left) and Allison Priebe Brooks of Queen Bee Designs (right). Right: Elizabeth Parker shows off edgy peep-toe booties.

Below: Actress Parker Posey and Fox 5 News’ Will Thomas co-host the Fashion Fights Poverty gala.

scene stealers

FA SH ION WA SH I NGTON | nov ember 2008 | 25

Fashion Fights Poverty st. regis hotel, sept. 26, 2008 can clothing be PC and eco-friendly yet still goodlooking? That question was answered with a resounding, glamorous “yes!� at this annual fashion show and fab party.

Designers who specialize in green, sustainable or fair-trade merch showed looks on a slinky catwalk. Styles included suits by menswear specialist Eric Finn, girly frocks by dressmaker Mae and sportswear by Kayce Armstrong, whose Art of Shade pieces turn used clothing into brand-new fashions. Actress Parker Posey and Fox 5 News’ Will Thomas co-hosted the event, which raised $10,000 for Nest, a nonprofit devoted to helping female business owners in developing countries. Among the 200 guests on hand to catch the show: Sophie Pyle, Katherine Kennedy and a slew of designers both locally and nationally known. ashle y joy parker

Above: Sophie Pyle, Krista Johnson and Katherine Kennedy, stars of the upcoming reality show “Blonde Charity Mafia.� Right: Designer Kayce Armstrong wearing a dress from her own line.

Left: Anna Gullickson channels old Hollywood glam in a pearl necklace.

Center: A model struts the runway in one of Kayce Armstrong’s recycledclothing designs. Right: Adra Williams, event DJ Adrian Loving and Maggy Francois mingle before the runway show.

all photos by l awrence luk

Geoffrey Lewis Ltd. Custom Tailors of Distinction Experience the special pleasure and satisfaction of custom made clothing‌ Suits, Sport Coats and Shirts tailored expressly for you.

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Find unique gifts to suit Fashion. Washington. Together at last. www.fashionwashington.com

every style and occasion.

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For more information about advertising in FW please contact Anne Cynamon at 202.334.5226 or Diane DuBois at 202.334.5224

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