CANADA
MAGAZINE
luminous
BEAUTY The Dior Effect DESIGNER Interviews
FALL/ WINTER STYLE SELECTS LOOKS + MAKEUP FROM THE PROS
DIGITAL & PRINT
Digital version available on ISSUU.COM/faveMagazine
All
NEW ave f MAGAZINE
FREE digital edition now online at www.faveMagazine.ca PRINT edition now availble to purchase.
Editor’s
Letter I had been looking forward to meeting the many individuals and friends who continue to share amazing work with us.
D
eciding what to write about for the editor’s letter is never a daunting task for me. I easily find inspiration in the world of fashion on a daily basis.
However, in light of the events that have put a tremendous focus on the many countries experiencing much turmoil, it was very difficult. While we are a Canadian publication, we take pride in having an international audience and many supporting contributors in cities around the globe. We have many team members residing in France; mostly from Paris, which was recently among the targets of such hateful activity. We immediately halted production. I sat in shock watching the news; frantically sending messages to our contributors in Paris. I felt compelled to provide as much support as I could as I remember the support I personally received from our Parisian friends a little over a year ago. In October 2014, I arrived in Paris wanting to celebrate. Paris was the only destination where I wanted to spend my honeymoon; it was also the prime location to promote the first print edition of fave.
Shortly after landing, we became aware of the horrific attack that was taking place in Ottawa – just minutes away from our home. Everyone in Paris who realized or discovered we were Canadian were extremely kind, and shared heartfelt statements regarding the situation back home and all the people affected by it. I will never forget how touched I was by all of this. I remember thinking to myself how heartwarming it was to arrive in a different city across the ocean and have such incredible support from wonderful people who value peace and love for the human race. Even though oceans divide our borders, we need to come together. We all need to do our part to support each other in times of suffering and despair. The best way I can sum up the message of this letter is with a quote from Brian Epstein, manager of the Beatles, regarding the song All you Need Is Love: “The Beatles were asked to come up with a song with a message understood by everyone. It was an inspired song and they really wanted to give the world a message.” I wholeheartedly dedicate this edition of fave Magazine to our friends in Paris, the city of love.
Alcides Muñoz Jr. Creative Director
CONTENTS FEATURED PHOTOGRAPHERS
FASHION
TEAM AND CONTRIBUTORS
BEAUTY
ALEX NAZAROV ANGÉLINE BÉSIGOT ANDREA KLARIN ARTHUR BENSANA DERRICK WEE FRANK ROSSBACH GREGORY BOUSSAC JERRY FILL JULIEN DUPRAZ LEO DEVENEY MIKE RUIZ STEVE WELLS TINA PICARD
Creative Director: Alcides Muñoz Jr. Assistant Director and Fashion News Editor: Kevin Schnobb Copy Editor: Jennifer Lecompte Fashion Editor: Bianca Wahab
CREATIVE TEAM Alcides Muñoz Jr. Alyssa Wilson Bianca Wahab Colin Gaudet Erica Wark Geneviève Peeke Jason Jaskot Jennifer Lecompte Julie Katona Kevin Schnobb Mahlet Seifu Melanie Viger Michael Berger Revend Brifkani Rossa Jurenas Sienna Vittoria Lee-Coughlin Tina Picard
008 FASHION W@RKS 016 In The Mood For Fall 032 Young & Restless 042 Nouveau JetSetter 058 Enchanted Forest 065 Far Away (Style Details) 072 Style Details 084 DISTINCTIVE 096 SEDUCE 108 A Balletic Peripeteia 128 Young Aristocrats 141 Luminous Beauty 152 Effortless Beauty 158 Allure 168 BANDIDA 176 It’s All ON Your Head
FEATURES
030 Fall-ing For Sentaler 052 QueenTessential 092 CANADA’S ONE TO WATCH 122 The Dior Effect
Special Thanks to: Enzo Fournier, Angéline Bésigot, Tatiana Terrine, Steve Wells and Angela De Bona. For more information about fave Magazine please visit our website at www.faveMagazine.ca Email: info@favemagazine.ca Printed versions of this edition will be available for purchase on the fave Magazine website.
COVER TEAM - Photographer : Tina Picard - Stylist : Lea Krpan Makeup Artist : Irene Latour - Hair Stylist : Rossa Jurenas Model : Breanna (Spot 6 Management)
h s af FASHION
n o ih
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FASHION W@RKS By Erica Wark, Fashion Journalist and Stylist
Fall/Winter 2015-16
TREND Repor t
Thakoon F/W 2015-16
One
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THE LONDONER:
Far from understated, the fashion-forward eccentric is drawn to the unorthodox. This quintessential British-eccentric look, brings mixed prints and unexpected textures to the forefront, highlighted by designers like Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Altuzarra and Thakoon.
Prabal Gurung
Alexander Wang F/W 2015-16
Two
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GLAM GOTH:
It was a black out on the catwalk with rock and roll inspired looks from the likes of Alexander Wang, DKNY, Dion Lee and Proenza Schouler, who all debuted a mostly black Goth collection this season. Pair it with a deep oxblood lip to really seal the deal.
Proenza Schouler
DVF F/W 2015-16
Three
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STUDIO 54:
If you feel like reliving the days of disco, now’s the time to do it. Designers like Michael Kors, Rodarte and DVF all looked to the decade that brought us bohemian silhouettes, psychedelic prints and groovy fabrics. Add a messy braid or metallic shades for your lids to come full circle.
Rodarte
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In the mood for
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by TatianaTerrine Photographer: Arthur Bensana Artistic Director & Stylist: Tatiana Terrine Makeup and Hair: Yann Rebelo Model: Charlotte Albert @Karin Models Agency
Vest FORTE FORTE Trousers FORTE FORTE White Gold Cuff CHARLET by AIME Silver Bracelets SERGE THORAVAL Silver Rings SERGE THORAVAL Clutch FRED MARZO
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Dress YANINA COUTURE Leather Gaiters ILARIA NISTRI Boots AVELLINO Clutch LISA VANBACH
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Vest CHER MICHEL KLEIN Leather Overalls ROSEANNA Body ETAM White Gold Cuff CHARLET by AIME Silver Rings SERGE THORAVAL Silver Bracelets SERGE THORAVAL Clutch FRED MARZO
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Fake Fur Sleeveless Jacket FORTE FORTE Long Vest AGNES B Leather Gaiters ILARIA NISTRI Boots REPETTO Eagle Diamonds Ring GERALDINE CARFIELD
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Sleeveless Leather Vest ILARIA NISTRI Silk Shirt FORTE FORTE Skirt MAISON 1988 Socks CALZEDONIA Boots AVELLINO Necklace GERALDINE CARFIELD White Gold Cuff CHARLET by AIME Silver Bracelets SERGE THORAVAL Clutch HUGO MATHA
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Fake Fur Vest AGNES B. Top SANDRINE PHILIPPE Short MAISON 1988 Necklace GERALDINE CARFIELD Diamonds Glove GERALDINE CARFIELD
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Vest FORTE FORTE Trousers FORTE FORTE White Gold Cuff CHARLET by AIME Silver Bracelets SERGE THORAVAL Silver Rings SERGE THORAVAL Clutch FRED MARZO
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all-ing FOR SENTALER By Genevieve Peeke Last summer, I had the pleasure of meeting Canadian fashion designer Bojana Sentaler in Montreal. Her luxury outerwear brand, Sentaler, was designed for the modern Canadian fashionista that wants style without compromising warmth. Sentaler obtains the highest quality alpaca fabrics from the original alpacas in the Andes of Peru, and the brand is known for impeccable craftsmanship with attention to every detail. Bojana is one of the sweetest and most passionate designers I have met so far. She has an aura and elegance that completely translates into her beautiful designs. Upon meeting her, she selected a breathtaking poncho for me and explained to me why it was so special to her. It was the warm, comfortable, and probably the most luxurious piece of clothing I have ever tried on. Her pieces are so elegant and timeless – they will honestly stay in your wardrobe cycle forever, and her Fall 2015 collection is no exception. Inspired by crystal formations and plunging temperatures, the coats, ponchos, wraps, and accessories are sure to please any Canadian woman. The collection features stunning pastel colours, as well as classic palettes like midnight, black and camel. Pastels are an amazing alternative to those darker shades we always see in Canada during the fall and winter – they stand out in a crowd and look so sophisticated. This collection is filled with eye-catching textures with multiple styles that are made from the Suri alpaca. Sentaler’s signature ribbed detail can be seen in sleeves and collars throughout the collection. While getting a closer look at her designs, I was able to ask Bojana Sentaler a few questions regarding her style and the new collection:
FM: How did you get your start designing? BS: I had the love for fashion since I was young. After graduating from a business school and working in the corporate world for a few years, I knew that I had to go back to pursuing my true passion, which is fashion design. FM: Describe your personal style. BS: My personal style is understated. I love clean lines, natural materials, and perfect tailoring. FM: What is your must-have piece from the new collection? BS: The Sentaler signature baby alpaca hooded wrap coat in shale grey. Every woman needs this piece in her closet. FM: The FW15 collection features an icy colour palette. What are your favourite ways to wear these types of colours? BS: The FW15 collection was inspired by a frozen landscape – ice blue, winter white, rose dust, chamoise and shale grey. These winter pastels go amazing with any core colour - black, grey, brown, camel etc. I love a monotone look, such as all grey, with a pastel punch – the Sentaler coat! FM: What makes your designs perfect for our Canadian weather? BS: The luxurious alpaca fabric I use to make the coats is very lightweight and soft, thus comfortable and elegant-looking for the long winter months to come. As well, the coats are warm – alpaca is known to be one of the warmest fabrics. FM: Describe Sentaler in three words BS: Luxury. Elegance. Quality. FM: What’s next for Sentaler? Where do you hope to see your brand in 5 years? BS: Sentaler has expanded into the international markets through our online shop. We are currently shipping worldwide. Our plan in the forthcoming years is to continue to expand internationally and to become a known brand in the major fashion markets in the world. The Fall 2015 Sentaler collection is available at the Sentaler Showroom in Toront, online at www.sentaler.com and will be launching shortly at Holt Renfrew Bloor St. Toronto, Yorkdale Mall, Montreal, Calgary and Vancouver downtown locations.
FASHION
Young Restless
&
Photos: Leo Deveney www.anthonydeveney.com @leodeveney Model:Paige Mobley @paigemobley Stylist: Jourdan Kadow @jourdannkadow Hair & Makeup: Rachael Brenner www.hairraezor.com @raaezor
Jacket: H&M Top: Vintage
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Jacket: Forever 21, White Button-Up: Forever 21 Opposite page: Jacket: H&M, Top: Vintage
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Jumpsuit: Bebe
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Checkered Top: Zara, Jacket: Vintage
Jacket: Forever 21 White Button-Up: Forever 21
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Sweater: Vintage
Jacket: H&M, Top: Vintage
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S
JET etter NOUVEAU
Photographer: Alex Nazarov www.AlexNazarov.com Model: Tanya Fitcukova Forward Model Management Makeup/Hair: Anastasiya Sadovskaya
Blouse: Marni, Coat: La Robe
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Shirt-dress & bow: Kate Spade Beret: Seeberger Shoes: La Robe, Bag: Fendi
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Jacket & brooch: Chanel Blouse: Alexander Wang Pants: Stella McCartney Bag: Karen Walker Necklace: La Robe Shoes: DVF
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Body: Etam Coat & accessory: La Robe Bag: Paula Cademartori Shoes: Rachel Roy
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Hat: Mason Michelle Jacket: La Robe Shirt: MM6 Shoes: DVF
FEATURE
QueenTessential Q&A with the magnificent Mahlet Seifu by Alcides Munoz
Photos: Tina Picard Makeup: Taryn Miller
FEATURE FM: Tell us how modeling has influenced other aspects of your life? M: You cannot underestimate the confidence it takes to pose for a camera, or to walk down a runway and own it while many eyeballs look at your every move. Self-confidence is the best outfit you can rock. I don’t let fear get in the way, I’m confident as long as I’ve done everything to prepare, and really know my craft. Confidence truly is the foundation of success. I’ve also learned that comparing myself to others is only a waste of time. We are all different and we all have unique talents. Focusing on my own strength but most importantly understanding my weakness and working hard to improve on them, has prepared me to achieve my goals and be successful in many different aspect of my life. FM: What are your thoughts on models that break into the industry from non-traditional paths, like reality TV and TV competitions? M: There is nothing wrong with being in the right place at the right time. Most models have always dreamt of being a model and work really hard at practicing their walk and poses before they find an agency to represent them. Some stumble upon it or other opportunities (such as TV competitions) open doors for them in to the modeling industry. How they arrive at a career in modeling isn’t what determines if they are successful at modeling. It is the hard work they put in after that shapes and molds them into a successful model. In the past, it was common for models to be discovered as they walked through the mall, but this happens less and less nowadays. In addition to TV competitions there are so many social medial platforms out there that connect us to the rest of the world. These platforms present opportunities for both the
models and the fashion industry (agencies, fashion designers, etc.), where models now have direct access to the agencies and designers they wouldn’t normally have access to. We are all connected now, so I think the non-traditional paths shouldn’t be frowned upon. FM: On the flip side, what are your thoughts on models moving into acting roles or other media? M: When people ask me what modeling is like, and how I am able to look different in every shoot, I tell them modeling is like a still form of acting. As a model you have to be expressive and emulate an emotion the viewer will believe. For that reason, I believe the transition some models make to acting is a natural step. If you have that artistic ability and the passion, you should not have to be stuck with a singular label. If you are good at your craft, then I think labels are just categories others like to fit you in, and not something that should define you. I feel like I am an example of this; yes, I am a model, but I felt artistically inclined to get into styling as well as designing a line of clutches. I am all these things depending on who I am talking to, so I don’t necessary fit in only one box. FM: With advancements in technology, models are featured in more interactive media such as motion editorials, adverts, animation and video more than ever. How do you feel this has impacted the modeling industry? How has this changed how models must prepare? M: Times have changed a great deal over the last few decades. It is great we no longer only have to consume ‘still’ editorials, but rather, motion features present a different dimension to fashion. It’s a very artistic way to capture emotions and moods. Continues on next page.
FEATURE
It’s an opportunity for models to continue expanding their skills in front of the camera through these mediums. Therefore, it is important models stay current to the needs of the industry and polish their skills to stay relevant. Models can prepare by taking acting classes, take time to practice movement poses, and prepare video comp cards - if needed. The modeling industry will be looking not just for models who can take great pictures, but those that are comfortable with being even more interactive. FM: What advice would you give to aspiring models who are looking to become part of this industry? M: My advice to aspiring models is that it is so important to have a good attitude. No one wants to work with a grumpy, moody, or diva-ish model. At the end of the day, it is your job. You need to ask yourself if you would behave badly if you had another profession. Secondly, I would tell aspiring models to be prepared to work hard. Nothing will be handed to you. You have to work hard at your craft (your walk, your poses, your look). As a model, you should know, without question, your strengths and weaknesses. I like the saying “success is when preparation meets opportunity” because it is true. Work at your craft – confidence will come with preparation. Preparation is not just knowing poses and mastering your walk, it’s also physical and mental. Make sure you eat well and have snacks with you - always. Shoots take a long time, and sometimes food is not always provided.
Lastly, I would say if you do not have the passion to be a model, you will not enjoy it. It’s not about fame, or popularity; it’s about loving what you do, because then all the hard work that comes with it doesn’t seem like a chore.
FM: Tell us about your brand Me.Tu Style, and how it came about? M: Me.Tu Style is the clutch and purse line I started in 2012. It is a line that incorporates unique, handmade Ethiopian fabrics. I came up with it simply because I couldn’t find something for myself in stores that was unique enough. After making a few samples, I realized there was demand; people were looking for something different. Me.Tu Style, means, style from me to you (tu in French and Spanish). Metu also my nickname. By channeling my passion for fashion, I am also able to support a worthy cause. I donate 10% from every single sale to an orphanage in Ethiopia. FM: Not long ago, you shot an editorial in a tropical island. Can you share with our readers what that experience was like? M: Oh, yes, the shoot in Barbados! That was one of my favourite shoots. It was a beautiful sunny day, palm trees all around, a stunning beach, and the waves were spectacular. It was also an exciting shoot because this was the first time my whole family was there to watch what I do. Look out for the editorials coming out soon! FM: What’s next for you? What can we expect to see in 2016? M: Next year will be an exciting year. It’s about taking everything up a notch. I will be working on a new collection, and expanding Me.Tu Style into clothing. As a model, I look forward to doing more shoots with creative concepts and photographers, as well as working in exotic locations. With regards to styling, I can’t wait for the next editorial we will be shooting for fave Magazine! To see more of Mahlet’s designs, please visit: http://www.metustyle.ca
FASHION
Forest ENCHANTED Photographer: Derrick Wee Model: Gemma Robinson @ Next Models Canada Stylist: Sarah Kelpin Makeup and hair: Windy Chiu
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Blouse: Ted Baker Skirt: Hilary MacMillan Necklace: MMcrystal
Leather and Snakeskin Dress: Hilary MacMillan Shawl and Gloves: Code Vitesse Earrings: MMcrystal
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Dress: Madame Moje Pendant Necklace: Thomas Sabo
Dress: Ted Baker Skirt: Christopher Pounil Earrings: MMcrystal
STYLE DETAILS
A
Far Away Photographer: Julien Dupraz Artistic Director & Stylist: Tatiana Terrine Hair: Virginie Moisson Makeup: Clotilde Sourisseau Model: Alessandra@DMA
Necklace Big Stone & White Pearls MADEMOISELLE FLORA Necklace Stone SEREFINA Necklace Pearls SEREFINA
Pink Necklace SEREFINA Big Chains Necklace 852LONDON Ring ISHARYA Embroidered Leather Bracelets SEREFINA Yellow Bracelet SEREFINA Green Bracelet SEREFINA
Earring 852LONDON Necklace L’ARTISAN CREATEUR Necklace L’ARTISAN CREATEUR Long Ring SAMANTHA WILLS Bracelets SAMANTHA WILLS
Stones Necklace 852LONDON Necklace Pink Pompoms SEREFINA Necklace Blue Pompoms SEREFINA Necklace Blue Feathers SEREFINA
Scarf IRENE PARIS Earring 852LONDON Ring SAMANTHA WILLS Necklace L’ARTISAN CREATEUR Stones Necklace 852LONDON
Big Golden Necklace SAMANTHA WILLS Necklace Blue Pompoms SEREFINA Necklace Brown Pompoms SEREFINA Ring SAMANTHA WILLS
STYLE DETAILS
Model: Inga Baltic Makeup: Little Enzo Retouch: Aline Bartoli Jewellery: Jonas Bowman Photo: Steve Wells
STYLE DETAILS
Jewellery: Jonas Bowman
STYLE DETAILS
Jewellery: Jonas Bowman
STYLE DETAILS
Jewellery: Jonas Bowman
STYLE DETAILS
Jewellery: Jonas Bowman
STYLE DETAILS
Jewellery: Jonas Bowman
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DIS TINC TIVE Photographer: Andrea Klarin @Angela de Bona Agency Fashion editor: Geoffrey Masure Model: Camille Toboll @ Dominique models Hair: Steven Raes for Aveda @ Touch by Dominique models Makeup: NoĂŤl Innocencio for Dior Photo assistant: Christophe Bustin
Lace Dress: DIANE VAN FURSTENBERG Sun Glasses: KOMONO
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Tuxedo Jacket: DVF Jeans: REPLAY Borsalino Hat: FILIPPA K
Tailor Pencil Skirt: TIM VAN STEENBERGEN Lingerie: UNDIZ
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Combi Pants, Blouse (Silk & Escarpin): DIANE VAN FURSTENBERG
Borsalino: Hat FILIPPA K Coat: JEAN PAUL KNOTT Bodysuit: LA PERLA Pants: PRADA Boots: CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN
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Bathrobe: CHANTAL THOMAS Lace Dress: LIU JO Escarpin: JIMMY CHOO Sun Glasses: KOMONO
Bodysuit: CHANTAL THOMAS Black Tuxedo: YVES SAINT LAURENT Escarpin: MIU MIU
FEATURE
CANADA’S ONE TO WATCH
As a regular at Toronto’s World MasterCard Fashion Week and the recipient of the prestigious 2015 TFI New Labels award, Matthew Gallagher is quickly making a name for himself in the Canadian fashion scene. Here, Sienna Vittoria Lee-Coughlin discusses inspiration and winter trends with the designer.
FM: What made you decide to become a fashion designer? MG: As a child I was always interested in fashion, glamorous people and luxurious things, and I wanted to be a film star. After a while I realized I was far too shy for that, and in Jr. High School I remember doodling my name on my notebooks and telling my friends I was going to have a clothing brand someday. When I was 16 I moved to New York for a summer to attend a pre-college program at Parsons and do an internship with a designer, and after that there was no convincing me of anything else. I was going to be a fashion designer. It is interesting to me is that even though I was too shy to be an actor, in the end, there is something cinematic about creating a collection every season. Casting a heroine, building a mood and telling a story. FM: How would you describe the women you design for? MG: I design for a woman who loves clothing. A woman who is well-traveled, loves art and design, enjoys the attention her beautiful clothing captivates, and above all, has a strong appreciation for craftsmanship.
FEATURE FM: In what ways does your Italian background influence your design aesthetic? MG: I am not Italian by heritage, but at this point I have a feeling of honorary Italian status. I moved to Milan when I was 21, studied and lived there for 5 years, and totally soaked up everything the beautiful country had to offer. I met my partner there, and he joined me on this journey to move back to Canada and launch my brand. Living in Italy and experiencing day-to-day life among Italians, and Europeans in general, greatly influenced my aesthetic. The surroundings in Italy were very inspiring to me as the history is so rich and the buildings are, quite frankly, architectural porn. I felt inspired just walking down the street because you could feel that you were in a place that created great talent. It was infectious.
FM: Tell me about your fall/winter 2015 collection. What was your inspiration? MG: The inspiration behind my FW15 collection came to me after viewing Alex Coleville’s Family and Rainstorm (1955). I wanted to create an exploration of the woman’s reality versus her fantasy. I imagined the woman who stands in the painting with her two children, wearing simple clothing, had dreams of being Hollywood actress as a girl which were never realized. The contrast of her fantasy versus reality came through with mixing textiles. I wanted to enhance simple wools by using ostrich feathers, crystals and silk trims, and pair down luxurious fabrics by adding casual elements such as utility pockets and apronstyle skirts. The contrast of fabrics and ideas, which could be categorized very simply as basic vs. luxury, played on the conflict of her two worlds.
FM: What is the key trend for fall/winter 2015 that you’re particularly excited about? MG: I am not a designer who is heavily based on trend. I am very aware of what is going on in the industry but I want to create clothing that touches on trends, yet is not so oversaturated by them that it will become irrelevant the following season. When it comes to luxury clothing, I feel like it is important to have pieces that will hang in your closet for many years. I am most excited about coats. I think people are having more fun with outerwear now; it is becoming a piece of clothing which can enhance your outfit rather than only serving the purpose of shielding you from the elements.
FM: Where do you see yourself in five years? MG: In five years, I hope to sell in other countries around the world and become a respected name in the fashion industry along some of the other designers I look up to. I definitely want to explore other areas of design, and would love to create a space where clients can shop the collections directly.
SE DU CE FASHION
Model: Catalina Denis Photographer: Steve Wells Assistant: Lucas Leroy Retouch: Lisa Évoluer Makeup: Enzo Fournier Hair: Julie Mandin Stylist: Alina Profir
Veste & Short en Cuir: Lab.716 Bijoux: Waskolg Cuissardes: collection personnelle
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Veste & Short en Cuir : Lab.617 Bijoux: Jonas Boman Bustierre: Paloma Casile Cuissardes: collection personelle
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Veste & Pantalon: Roseberry Paris Body: Paloma Casile Escarpins: Walter Steiger
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Haut en Plumes: Vaskolg Body en Dentelle: Paloma Casile Short en Cuir: Lab.617 Sandales: Walter Steiger
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Robe: Lab.617 Fausse Fourrure: collection personnelle Escarpins: Walter Steiger
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Robe, ĂŠcharpe en fourrure et body jewel : Roseberry Paris Bijoux: Jonas Bowman Sandales: Walter Steige
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BALLETIC
PERIPETEIA Photographer: Jerry Fill Creative Director: Emmalynn Makeup: Carly Ryan Hair: Jariselle Cortijo Models: Louann von Brochwitz, Sophia Casanova Assistant: Julie Fill
Louann: Dress GLAW Sophia: Top Emanuel Ungaro, Skirt Free People
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Louann: Dress David Dalrymple for House of Field Sophia: Top GLAW, Skirt Vintage
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Louann: Top Emanuel Ungaro Sophia: Dress GLAW
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Dress: Lena Hoschek
Bodysuit: GLAW
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Gown: Escada
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Louann: Gown Escada Sophia: Skirt Essentiel Antwerp, Top Nasty Gal
Louann: Dress GLAW, Shoes Jeffrey Campbell Sophia: Top GLAW, Shorts Dolce & Gabbana
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Louann: Swimsuit Norma Kamali, Shoes Jeffrey Campbell Sophia: Skirt Lena Hoschek, Top Nasty Gal
FEATURE
Dior Effect The
by Revend Brifkani
When fashion admirers hear the name Christian Dior, a man that shaped the most regal and beautiful maisons of French Haute Couture, their thoughts immediately turn to fantasy and imagination. Perhaps to daydream of a woman tending to a garden filled with beautiful flowers on a gorgeous summer day while wearing a New Look ensemble, or of a woman strolling down a narrow Parisian street in the moonlight to meet a loved one. These, along with hundreds of other romanticized fashion daydreams, have become synonymous to Dior. Christian Dior epitomized classical glamour and sophistication with innovation; having a huge effect on fashion trends internationally after the war. An innovator like no other, Dior would change fashion forever with his introduction of the New Look while having the entire world on its toes in utter obsession.
How Dior has survived with such enormous success today is fascinating, especially with the recent news that creative director, Raf Simons, announced that his time with Dior has come to an end. In a world where fashion houses have risen (and fallen) from the most unlikely of places with enormous success, how does a brand like Dior stay relevant? Paris is an opulent city for artists, dreamers, romantics; a place where we hope legacies like that of Christian Dior will never dissipate.
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et us take a closer look at Dior in our current fashion era, including details from the recent film Dior and I directed by Frédéric Tcheng, which brought us a little bit deeper into the world of Dior. When Raf Simons took over for John Galliano at Christian Dior, the world filled with disputes regarding adequacy and whether he was fit to fill such a monumental role. Raf was described as a minimalist during his time with Jil Sander, where a successful yet simple silhouette was branded. Appealing in his esthetic design style, Raf is a very passionate, almost obsessive man, whole-heartedly dedicated to creating beauty – each time pouring a bit of himself into his work. Would Raf be prepared to continue propelling Dior into the future when he began taking the reins of such a powerful fashion house? We soon observed that Raf could indeed be entrusted with ensuring Dior’s classical femininity be kept alive in his new collections. His first hurdle was the daunting task of creating an Haute Couture collection within the first eight weeks after being appointed as creative director. Dior is one of the last few fashion houses continuing the oldest traditions of Haute Couture with its own internal ateliers for dressmaking and suit making, filled with inspiring and enthusiastic tailors and seamstresses. All seams finished by hand, under the umbrella of what the Chambre Sydicale requires, there are several employees who have been with Dior’s ateliers for over 40 years. Raf researched tirelessly through archived Dior patterns, sketches, swatches and garments that were preserved in mint condition. He examined fabrics and prints the designer had used to shape his New Look silhouette as inspiration for his imminent couture collection. Tiny waists on a bar jacket, full volume skirts contemporized into something sleek and futuristic with colorful embroidery and sleek lines; a radical move at the time (given the company’s flamboyant past). Raf took ball gown silhou-
ettes and raised their hems to mid-thigh length, pairing them with a tailored pant. The final product would certainly be a surprise on the runway, but it was understood and admired. The two premieres of the atelier are of the most important and valuable on the design team. They are faced with the tumultuous task of bringing sketches from first draft to life with total perfection; making them a very valuable part of the atelier. What’s inspiring about the atelier teams’ demeanor is that the tailors and seamstresses feel that the spirit of Dior continues to resonate throughout the building; giving a sense they are still working directly under him.
D
uring Dior and I, Raf described what he felt was his similarity to Christian Dior by their approaches and admiration for femininity as the ultimate starting point in creating. He closely examines his fit model as she walks with strength, wearing an ensemble made of muslin - a fabric that can be easily manipulated by the tailors and seamstresses before final, and far more precious, fabric is used. It’s a very intense and technical process; each look needs to fit and flow with the rest of the collection and mood perfectly. Raf can clearly be seen feeling the weight of pressure on his shoulders as he chain smokes. We cannot even begin to imagine how he must have felt. There is an enormous amount of detail and precision involved with Haute Couture that makes creating a collection in such a short period of time feel almost impossible. A funny example of this is during a muslin fitting, Raf asks how fast the same jacket worn by a model could be reproduced in black fabric. With their very strict deadlines, the tailors appear disoriented at just the thought of this alone. They had no choice but to be resourceful; taking the jacket outside and spray-painting it black, trying their best not to inhale any of the contents. Raf found it amusing, as did the rest of the team. It got the job done!
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ready-to-wear (or prêt-à-porter) collection could be executed with much more ease, however, couture requires all seams and finishing to be completed by hand – sometimes requiring hundreds or thousands or hours in order to finish the embroidery on a bustier alone. When taking a close look at the muslin ensembles during fittings, the amount of detail that goes into a shaped bodice or a mermaid gown is simply astonishing. The proportions of a silhouette can be tricky when using a fabric that is hard to manipulate, especially when a single skirt can measure up to 40 meters. It’s another testament to the incredible craftsmanship involved in the atelier. Raf created many interesting (and what appeared to be successful) collections during his time with Dior, yet it begs the question: what was the real reason behind him leaving? We may never know the truth, but it leaves one to imagine that there must be difficulty with regards to the relationship between the designer (or creative director) and the men who sign the cheques. Are the more commercial parts of a runway collection influenced by someone above the designer? It feels almost as though the businessmen behind brands may not completely trust a designer they’ve appointed to be in charge. When ultimately looking to make a profit, it could be that a designer is pressured into creating the ‘It bag’ or the ‘It shoe’ versus a creative interpretation on the New Look, for example. This was certainly the thought I had when hearing the news of Alexander Wang parting ways with Balenciaga; there is a seemingly high turnover rate in the fashion world. Despite Raf Simons leaving the maison, it’s certain that the DNA of the brand and roots of classic French Haute Couture will never leave the atelier at Christian Dior. Its employees take upon themselves great joy in the creations that they proudly put together, keeping alive all the treasures of the house within their workrooms. It’s important to remember that not a single designer in the world spends an eternity behind a brand, and that hearing of a new creative director doesn’t have to be a Greek tragedy. They will only continue to come and go, but those creating from a place of true passion and admiration for beauty are the ones that will never be forgotten.
FASHION
Photographer : Tina Picard Stylist : Lea Krpan Makeup Artist : Irene Latour Hair Stylist : Rossa Jurenas Models : Annaise (Elite Models Toronto) Breanna (Spot 6 Management) Dress: Zara Neckpiece: Marie Copps Suit Jacket: Scotch&Soda
FASHION
Annaise - Bra and Panties: H&MÂ Breanna - Bodysuit: H&M, Bra: Aritzia
Annaise - Socks and Coat: H&M, Shoes: Zara Breanna - Hat: H&M, Coat: Ted Baker, Shoes: Zara
FASHION
Annaise - Shoes: Zara, Shirt: Zara, Necklace (worn as a bracelet): H&M, Dress (worn as a skirt): Two Birds store Lovers Land Breanna - Shoes: Zara, Skirt: H&M, Shirt: C/Meo Collective store Lovers Land, Scarf: Ted Baker, Headpiece: Marie Copps
FASHION
Annaise - Dress: Topshop, Skirt: Topshop, Belt: Aritzia, Shoes: Browns Shoes, Necklace: Zara Breanna - Shoes: Topshop, Yellow Skirt: Topshop, Orange Skirt: Topshop, Shirt: Ted Baker, Headpiece: Marie Copps Opposite Page: Breanna - Dress: Ted Baker, Belt: Aritzia, Shirt: Aritzia, Hat: Ted Baker
FASHION
Annaise - Shoes: Zara, Skirt: C/Meo Collective store Lovers Land, Belt: Aritzia, Dress (worn as a shirt): Zara, Hat: Ben Sherman
Breanna - Boots: stylist’s own, Dress: Zara, Neckpiece: Marie Copps, Suit Jacket: Scotch&Soda
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BEAUTY
y t u a
CANADA
ave f beauty
luminous
BEAUTY
BEAUTY
luminous
BEAUTY Photographer : Angéline Bésigot Makeup : Enzo Fournier Model : Viktoria @Mademoiselle Agency Post-production : Natalia Fadejeva
Get this Luminous Beauty Look using: Armani – Luminous silk foundation, Fluid sheers 2, Maestro concealer, Luminous silk powder, Eye tint 12. MAC – Gentle & soft, Blush O’ Peach, Blue Fountain, fluidline, Haute & naughty lashes, Giddy
BEAUTY
Armani – Luminous silk foundation,Fluid sheers 2 Maestro concealer, Luminous silk powder, Eye tint 12, Eyes to kill. MAC – Gentle & soft, Blush O’ Peach, Swimming / brule (eye shadow) Designer Purple (opposite page)
BEAUTY
Armani – Luminous silk foundation, Fluid sheers 2, Maestro concealer, Luminous silk powder, Eye tint 12 MAC – Gentle & soft, Blush fleur power, Brule / Sketch (eye shadow), Petrol blue, Haute & naughty lash
BEAUTY
Armani – Luminous silk foundation, Fluid sheers 1, Maestro concealer, Luminous silk powder, Eye tint 12 MAC – Gentle & soft, Blush fleur power, Shroom, Dangerous ELLE Make up – Mascara black 3 in 1
BEAUTY Armani – Luminous silk foundation, Fluid sheers 2, Maestro concealer, Luminous silk powder, Eye tint 12. MAC – Gentle & soft, Blush O’ Peach, Blue Fountain, fluidline, Haute & naughty lashes, Giddy
BEAUTY
beauty Effortless
is about letting yourself shine through.
Photographer: Mike Ruiz Modes: Catherine Roberts and Kriss Evtikhieva from New York Models Hair: Paul Warren at Art Dept NY Makeup: Merrell Hollis at www.merrellhollis.com
BEAUTY
Effortless hair is subtle, simple yet sophisticated.
BEAUTY
Luminous skin is the key to a youthful glow.
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BEAUTY
llure
Photo: Frank Rossbach Photography www.rossbach-photography.com Hair/ Makeup & Concept: Sandra Brammer www.sandrabrammer.com Model: Carolin G. / MostWantedModels速
Foundation: Nude Air/ Dior Eyeshadow Pallette: Electric/ Urbandecay Mascara: Diorshow/ Dior Lips: VANILLA SUEDE/ Tom Ford Beauty Hair: Bumble and Bumble
BEAUTY
Foundation: Nude Air/ Dior Eyeshadow Pallette: Electric/ Urbandecay Mascara: Diorshow/ Dior Lips: VELVET CHERRY/ Tom Ford Beauty Hair: Bumble and Bumble
BEAUTY
Foundation: Nude Air/ Dior Eyeshadow Pallette: Electric/ Urbandecay Mascara: Diorshow/ Dior Lips: VANILLA SUEDE/ Tom Ford Beauty Hair: Bumble and Bumble Nails: Black Satin/ CHANEL
BEAUTY
Foundation: Nude Air/ Dior Eyeshadow Pallette: Electric/ Urbandecay Mascara: Diorshow/ Dior Lips: FLAME/ Tom Ford Beauty Hair: Bumble and Bumble Nails: Black Satin/ CHANEL
BEAUTY
Foundation: Nude Air/ Dior Eyeshadow Pallette: Electric/ Urbandecay Mascara: Diorshow/ Dior Lips: VELVET CHERRY/ Tom Ford Beauty Hair: Bumble and Bumble
BEAUTY
BAN DIDA Photographer: Gregory Boussac Artistic Director & Stylist: Tatiana Terrine Hair: Virginie Moisson Makeup: Noemie Masselin Model: Hadassa - M. Management
Ring ANITA SONDORE
BEAUTY
Necklace SAMANTHA WILLS Ring ANITA SONDORE Scarf IRENE PARIS
Earrings SAMANTHA WILLS Necklace black stone, Necklace SAMANTHA WILLS Scarf IRENE PARIS
BEAUTY
Ring JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Ring JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Ring Phalanx FIYA JEWELLERY Doube Ring ISHARYA Necklace ISHARYA Cuff ISHARYA Scarf IRENE PARIS
Earring Cuff Mirror ISHARYA Earring Cuff White Crystals SAMANTHA WILLS Long Ring JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Triangle Ring ANITA SONDORE Ring Phalanx FIYA JEWELLERY Scarf IRENE PARIS
BEAUTY
Earrings JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Smoky Stone Ring ANITA SONDORE Blue Stone Ring ISHARYA (right hand) Blue Stone Ring ISHARYA (left hand) Cuff ISHARYA Necklace worn like a bracelet ISHARYA Scarf IRENE PARIS
Necklaces JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Long Ring JOANNA LAURA CONSTANTINE Triangle Ring ANITA SONDORE Scarf IRENE PARIS
BEAUTY
s ’ It
All ON
Your
Head Photographer: Mike Ruiz - www.mikeruiz.com Model: Nyamouch - Fenton Model Management NYC Makeup: Eliza Davila - www.elizadavila.com Headpieces: ChuChu NY - www.chuchuny.com
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