From polo I looked at equestrian patterns that run as a theme within Ralph Lauren’s women’s collection. Jodphur’s with contrasting panels and small details, statement bold colours and preppy blazers are a key staple within this look.
The womenswear collection in Polo Ralph Lauren focuses on dressing up casualwear and therefore some of the key pieces are blazers and jeans. The jeans above have an interesting distressed finish with rips and paints, and the blazers feature 3 front pockets and occasionally a crest. There were also some bold graphics on jumpers and jackets, as well as the staple shirts and classic cricket/tennis jumpers.
From the nautical prep theme, I noticed a relationship between vintage cheer jackets and sailors uniforms. I find the collar’s really interesting varying in different shapes and stripe patterns, originally the stripes on a sailor’s uniform represented rank.
Examples of current designers using the sailors collar as an influence in their designs. I like the contrast between the classic use in Lazy Oaf’s collection with the stripes and the abstract direction Raf Simon’s went in with the collection of images on the back to make a statement.
After looking at nautical themes, I looked further into sails and the graphics that are used in competitions. I like the way the alternative side reflects through the sail to make a reversed effect and think this will translate well into a print or graphic detail on a garment.
After looking at tennis I collected a selection of images that use pleats in current collections, stores and practical uses. Linking back to college prep, cheerleaders have pleated skirts in their uniforms, varying in length, pattern and colour. The designer images show an alternative use to the usual pleats that are seen in the vintage images.
I looked at popular films that have had an influence in fashion and how they portray ‘American Prep’, especially in womenswear. In contrast to the bold initials and sports themes, these films relate more to the Ivy League style seen on campuses and designer campaigns.
I also researched into alternative films that show a slightly different view on american college life, especially iconic films such as Grease that show a more rebellious fashion choice, sporting statement leather jackets and roll up denim jeans. Well known for the ‘T Birds’ and ‘Pink Ladies’ jackets, the film still looks at preppy college life in that time and continues to carry this identity but with a twist.
Some of my drawings and own images of vintage jackets. Although the styles are similiar, there are some interesting differences to focus on in my studies such as the collar and fabrication.
Tommy Hilfiger, Coach, Junn.J, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Public School, Chanel and Sonia are all examples above of ‘American Prep’ style in modern fashion. From statement letterman jackets and bold patches and graphics to plaid skirts, matching co-ords, iconic stripes and knee high socks.
The badges on a lot of the garments I have researched reminded me of the type you would find at scouts or summer camp. Summer camp is an American tradition that has been around for years, a lot of the t shirts and uniforms link in with the American prep theme with the printed graphics and coloured stripes.
ENGINEERED GARMENTS SS17
UNDERCOVER SS17