Make the Most of local mushrooms

SPRING IS PEAK MUSHROOM SEASON, SO EXPLORE THE FANTASTIC WORLD OF FUNGI BY VISITING YOUR LOCAL MUSHROOM GROWERS AND FORAGERS.

WHAT IS IT?

We’re all familiar with the fresh and dried mushrooms lining the shelves at our nearest conventional supermarket. But face it: They’re boring, a little sad and you deserve better. The St. Louis area has two notable mushroom growers – Mushrooms Naturally and Ozark Forest Mushrooms – that make the rounds at area farmers markets and sell directly to buyers. Both offer some of the most beautiful mushrooms around – lion’s mane, grey oyster and black poplar, to name a few. Some, like chanterelles and black trumpets, show up seasonally, while many others are available year-round.

WHAT DO I DO WITH IT?

Mushrooms are a joy to work with; each one has its own shape and flavor profile. Talk to producers about what they like to do with each variety, and they’ll have plenty of suggestions. A conserva is a great way to extend the lives of highly seasonal varieties like chanterelles, and it’s one of the simplest things you can do with them. Roast or sauté them to sit atop grains, greens or pasta. Use them in soups or stews, simmer them in sauces for poultry or beef or throw them into stir fries or curries; whatever you dream up, there’s a mushroom for it.

Creamy Polenta With Herb-Sautéed Mushrooms

SERVES | 4 TO 6 |

Asurprisinglysatisfyingvegetarianweeknightmealcomesfromthecombinationofhearty polentaandmeatymushrooms,andyouwon’tneedanythingmorethanagreensaladalongsideit.

POLENTA

3 cupswholeor2percentmilk

3 cupswater

2 tsp koshersalt

SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS

3 Tbspoliveoil

3 Tbspunsaltedbutter

1½ Tbspfreshsageleaves, finelychopped

1½ Tbspfreshrosemaryleaves, finelychopped sprigsfreshthyme

¼ cupshallots,minced clovesgarlic,minced

1½ cupscoarsegrindpolenta

3 Tbspunsaltedbutter cupParmesancheese,freshlygrated

1½ lbsfreshmixedmushrooms (oyster,maitake,shiitake,beechoryour favorites), trimmedandsliced

¹⁄₃ cupdrywhitewine

Tbspsherryvinegar pinchredpepperflakes koshersaltandfreshgroundblack pepper,totaste

Where to find them:

Ozark Forest Mushrooms is a regular at Tower Grove Farmers' Market, and Mushrooms Naturally attends the Lake St. Louis market. Check their websites for info on buying, hours and market attendance. ozarkforest.com; mushroomsnaturallystl.com.

/ preparation – polenta / Bring milk, water and salt to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat; slowly stream in polenta, whisking constantly. Continue to whisk until mixture starts to bubble; reduce heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until polenta is tender, 30 minutes. If polenta cooks too fast, add more water as needed, ¼ cup at a time. Remove from heat, and stir in butter and cheese; cover and set aside as you make the mushrooms.

/ preparation - mushrooms/ Heat oil and butter in a 12-inch cast iron skillet over medium heat. Stir in herbs and cook, 3 to 4 minutes. Add shallots and garlic and cook until tender, 2 minutes. Add mushrooms, and toss to coat; cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have released their juices and are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Add wine, vinegar and red pepper flakes and bring to a light boil over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until liquid has reduced. Season to taste. / to serve/ Divide polenta on plates, top with mushrooms, and serve warm alongside a green salad.