October 2022 Feast Magazine

10/7

Feast at the Garden

Friday, October 7, 6 to 8 p.m, 9 Mile Garden, 9375 Gravois Road, A on, Missouri

Join Feast Magazine as we celebrate the release of the October issue and the best Indian cuisine that St. Louis has to offer! Enjoy live music, tasty bites from local food trucks and beverages from the Canteen – all while honoring the foodand-drink pros who are reimagining the local culinary scene!

Sat., October 29, 4 to 7 p.m.; $55; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, cooking-schoolnourish.schnucks.com/web-ext/Missouri; this class, we will learn all about Indian cuisine, spices and condiments. We’ll make mulligatawny soup, chicken korma with rice pilaf and naan. For dessert, we’ll enjoy kheer (rice pudding).

JOINFEASTMAGAZINE as we celebrate thereleaseofthe October issue!Enjoy livemusic, tasty bites fromlocalfood trucksand beveragesfromthe Canteen– all while learningabout the bestIndian cuisine thatSt. Louis has tooffer!

GRANDOPENING

OCTOBER 2022 VOLUME 12 /

SALES

VICE

Emily

MANAGING

Mary

DIGITAL

Shannon

ASSOCIATE

Charlo e crenner@feastmagazine.com

ASSISTANT Standlee,

CONTRIBUTING

FACT

Kevin

Erin Wood,

Dawn dawn.deane@feastmagazine.comDeane,

ASSISTANTARTDIRECTOR

Laura lauradevlieger@laduenews.comDeVlieger,

CONTRIBUTING

Christina

Hannah

To Rich Hudson at rhudson@post-dispatch.com.

editor’s letter

This month, we are celebrating St. Louis’ booming, innovative Indian cuisine scene.

To start, check out associate editor Charlotte Renner’s feature on Turmeric on p. 31 – the modern Indian eatery with a menu that reflects India’s vastly diverse cuisine, “from dosas in the South to paneer in the North.”

Speaking of paneer, managing editor Mary Andino will take you through three different, expertly chosen ways to use the classic ingredient on p. 13.

Flip to p. 26 for contributing editor Mabel Suen’s heartwarming profile of Adam Lambay, St. Louis’ newest foodie star on screen. The digital series “Adam Lambay’s Indian Inspired” debuted this fall. The executive chef at Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark will share his cooking chops, as well as his family heritage, with audiences. And with Feast readers, Lambay shares an exclusive favorite recipe on p. 30 .

Suen returns with a conversation with the owner of Gokul Indian

Restaurant, Jitendra Sandhe, on p. 16. Sandhe reveals the inspiration behind the popular restaurant and why he is passionate about crafting an entirely kosher, vegetarian menu for his customers.

Score tips from Heena Chopra, chefowner of Maaji’s Street Kitchen, on the top tools you need to create excellent Indian dishes from your own home on p. 17. Next, get an inside look at the No. 1 St. Louis store you need to shop for all of your Pakistani, Indian and Middle Eastern cooking needs on p. 24.

Discover the dish our staff can’t stop talking about from Khanna's Desi Vibes on p. 12, and last but not least, top it all off with a Masala Soda recipe on p. 23 – a popular drink with sweet, savory and sour notes from the pros behind Bombay Food Junkies.

Cheers!

Emily Adams emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

Myfamilylovestobeoutsideinthefall.Thecool weather issoinvitingthatanyfree time we haveisspentoutside.Thegirls enjoyplayingintheleaves,takingwalks, swinginginthehammockandourfavoritepartissittingaroundthefirepit inthe evenings.Thecrispairisperfectforsnugglingupinsweatshirtsandblanketswhile soakinginthewarmthofafire.It’sthebestplace forfamilyandfriendstocome together tosharestoriesand enjoygoodfood.

Timespentaroundthefirepit atourhouseisn’tcompletewithouts’moresand somethingwarmtodrink.Fromherbalteatoapplecider,awarmbeverageisthe cherryontoptothisintimatetimetogether.Inthespirit ofOctober andallthings pumpkinandspice,thismonth’srecipetakesalltheflavorsoffalltocreatethe perfectpumpkinpunch.

Craftedtobesippedoutsideonacoolevening it’sawarm,spice andfruit filled drinkthat’sGoodForYouandthepeopleyoushare it with. If youwantmore seasonalrecipeslikethisone,andtotakeastep forwardonyourhealthjourney, IinviteyoutojoinourGoodForYoucommunitybyoptingintodayatschnucks. com/goodforyou.Usetheserecipesasinspirationtocreate somethingtosharewith yourfamilyand enjoyallthegreatthingsfallhastooffer

Inaslowcooker,heatfirst7ingredientstogether onlowsetting; simmer 2hourscovered.Addslicedapple,pearandpomegranatearils topunchandstir.AddRieslingandrum if desired.

Inashallowbowl,whisksugarandpumpkinpiespice

STORY BY SHANNON DEVELOPER, PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

VADOUVAN IS A MUST-HAVE FOR YOUR SPICE RACK.

WHAT IS IT?

Vadouvan is a version of a masala that blends the French love of alliums with all the foundational spices of Southern Indian cuisine. It’s not a powder, though some ready-made blends make it seem that way. Think of it as more of a seasoning base, with deeply toasted flakes of onion and shallot surrounded by mellow heat that comes at you from all sides.

WHAT DO I DO WITH IT?

My favorite way to use vadouvan is to bump up the flavor and depth of soups and stews. It’s a perfect complement to the variety of pumpkins, squashes and root vegetables we see this time of year. Use its beefy flavor as a rub, sprinkle it in hummus or yogurt-based dips, or use it as a base for jus. Vadouvan is exceedingly flexible; once you taste it, you won’t need my suggestions because you’ll have too many ideas of your own to try out.

Onions and shallots, taken from fresh to oven-browned, are essential to vadouvan; don’t skimp with the pre-dried, store-bought sort. This recipe is my version of nearly identical recipes from three sources: two master chefs – Ludo Lefebvre and Sean Brock – and a recipe developed for Bon Appétit by Paul Grimes, which predates either chef’s published versions. No need to mess too much with greatness here.

VADOUVAN SPICE BLEND

YIELDS | ONE CUP |

1 lb sweet onions, peeled and roughly chopped

1 lb shallots, peeled and halved

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 Tbsp vegetable oil

2 Tbsp fresh curry leaves, very thinly sliced

2 tsp ground cumin

1 ½ tsp kosher salt

1 tsp brown mustard seeds

¾ tsp ground cardamom

½ tsp ground fenugreek seeds

½ tsp ground turmeric

¼ tsp red chile flakes

¼ tsp grated fresh nutmeg

½ tsp black pepper

¼ tsp ground cloves

/ preparation / Add onions to the bowl of a food processor in batches; pulse each batch until broken down into smaller, uniform pieces. Remove, add shallots and garlic, and repeat process until everything is broken down into similarly sized pieces.

Heat oil in large cast iron or heavy skillet over medium-high heat; add onions, shallots and garlic, stirring constantly for 2 minutes; reduce heat to mediumlow and cook, stirring every 5 minutes until mixture is golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from heat.

While onion mixture cooks, preheat oven to 350˚F and position two racks in the middle; line two rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Stir curry leaves, cumin, salt, mustard seeds, cardamom, fenugreek, turmeric, nutmeg, chile flakes, pepper and cloves into the onion mixture until evenly distributed. Spread out between two baking sheets in a very thin, even layer. Bake, stirring every 10 to 15 minutes and rotating pans at intervals, 1 hour or until deeply browned and mostly dry; mixture will dry further as it cools. Remove from oven, and transfer pans to wire racks to cool.

If mixture has clumped or is in larger pieces than you’d like, transfer the cooled mixture to the bowl of a food processor and pulse to break into smaller pieces.

Transfer finished mixture to jar; seal and freeze until ready to use.

Khanna’s Desi Vibes’

Schezwan Kamal Kakdi Rings

WRITTEN BY ALECIA HUMPHREYS

PHOTO BY CHRISTINA KLING-GARRETT

“The main reason I wanted to open this restaurant is because it was always my passion, my dream, but I didn’t want to just serve my guests Indian food that they can find anywhere,” Khanna explains. “So my chef’s and team’s goal is: How do we introduce our guests to different flavor profiles and different kinds of

Onedishes?”suchdish that has been a delight in the dining room is the Schezwan Kamal Kakdi Rings, which features lotus root rings tossed in a homemade Schezwan (or Sichuan) sauce.

“It really has gained a lot of popularity because a lot of people have never heard about lotus root rings,” Khanna says. “A lot of times, people are not comfortable to try something because they don’t know what it is, but I encourage my guests to at least give it a try.”

Khanna believes that the way his team prepares the dish is what has led to its spike in popularity.

“The way we prepare this particular dish gives customers some crunchiness with the softness of the lotus root inside and then

some spice from the Schezwan sauce,” he says.

Khanna starts the dish with fresh, sliced lotus roots coated in flour that are flash-fried for a crisp exterior. Then, the lotus roots are tossed in a pan with onion, bell peppers and, of course, the Schezwan sauce.

“It’s a homemade sauce,” Khanna says. “We use garlic, fresh onions, some celery and some spices and cooking oil, and the sauce is actually cooked for hours to get that taste. It’s a process to make the sauce in-house.”

It’s a process that’s clearly worth the wait.

“The sauce makes it really [enjoyable],” Khanna says. “When you taste it, you get the flavor of garlic, spring onions, celery and the spices, so when you take the first bite, you get fantastic flavors in your mouth before you bite into the lotus root, which is soft. It’s a great balance.”

Khanna’s Desi Vibes, 13724 Olive Blvd., Chesterfield, Missouri, 314-392-9348, desivibesstl.com OPENED THE DOORS TO KHANNA’S DESI VIBES IN CHESTERFIELD HIS GOAL WAS TO GIVE GUESTS A TRUE TASTE OF NORTH INDIAN CUISINE.

ONE INGREDIENT

Dating back to the 16th century, paneer is a classic ingredient in Indian cuisine.

Similar to halloumi, it does not melt, making it a great substitute for meat in a variety of dishes. “Paneer is a versatile ingredient; just like tofu, it absorbs the flavor of everything,” says Heena Chopra, owner of Maaji’s Street Kitchen. “It’s a great source of calcium and protein.”

The process of making paneer at home is simpler than you might think. Hema Patel of Haveli Indian Restaurant says, “First, we boil the milk, and then once it’s boiling, we add lemon juice to it.” Next, put the mixture in a cheese cloth and squeeze to separate excess water from the curds. After that, she says, leave the mixture in the fridge overnight. “Then, put a lot of weight on it [to get the water out]; that’s what makes it solid,” she explains. Patel encourages home cooks to try making paneer: “They can do it. It’s not that difficult.”

Although there are plenty of restaurants in St. Louis that offer excellent paneer dishes, home cooks shouldn’t be intimidated to experiment with this product in their own kitchens. Here, two local restaurant owners share their tips for becoming a pro with paneer.

matar paneer

This is one of the classic ways to enjoy paneer, and it’s a perennial favorite for a reason. The North Indian dish features peas and paneer simmered in a tomato sauce flavored with garam masala.

Paneer is a great protein to prepare for dinner on a busy weeknight. According to Patel, you shouldn’t have to simmer the cheese in the sauce for more than five minutes.

paneer pakora

If you’re looking for a fun, flavorful appetizer, try paneer pakora. “We have a chickpea batter that we dip those [paneer pieces] in and then deepfry them,” Patel says.

A key to good pakora are the accompanying chutneys, she notes: “We have two chutneys with them – the tamarind and date chutney, which is sweet and sour in taste. The other one is the mint and cilantro chutney, which gives it a little kick; it has chiles.”

Serve a platter of paneer pakora with chutneys on the side as dipping sauces at your next family gettogether for a crowd-pleasing vegetarian app.

paneer as a protein

For a gluten-free, high-protein version of a sandwich, Chopra has a unique idea. “I saw a recipe that used paneer slices in place of bread slices, and it looked absolutely fantastic. I’m going to try that,” she says.

Paneer can also be used much like any other hearty cheese to add protein to vegetarian meals. Chopra recommends adding chopped paneer to scrambled eggs in the morning for an easy breakfast or onto salad for a satisfying lunch.

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

Photo by Hema Patel, Haveli Restaurant

Photo by Hema Patel, Haveli Restaurant

TAKE ALOOK AT THELIGHTSIDEOF DAIRY BY

COTTAGECHEESE

Afterpeakinginthemid-1970s, whenthe average American would consumemore than 4 poundsof itannually,cottage cheese started to declineinpopularity. Butthere remains a lot to like aboutthis fermentedmilkproduct:Itisfull of a protein called casein, which digests slowly, meaning you’ll feel fullafter eatingit.ThevitaminB12 in cottage cheese boosts boneand nerve health,plusthephosphorus helps filterthebody’swaste and repairscells.Usecottage cheese in homemade pancakesorinplace of ricottaforlasagna.

CREAMCHEESE

Replacing regularcreamcheese withlow-fatcreamcheese is oneofthe easiest swapsyou can make inthekitchen andone you’llnotice theleast.Itwill cutboth fatand caloriesnearly inhalf whileincreasingprotein and calcium.Opting for fatfreecreamcheeseoverlow-fat slashesthe calories by half yet again.Whippedcreamcheese isnutritionally similar to the fat-free variety, anditblends beautifully intosaucesordips.

MILK

Nonfat,skimand fat-freemilk are allnames forthe same thing:milkthathashaditsfat removed.(Reduced-fatmilk has2% fatand whole comesin at 3.5%.)But takingout fatalso removesvitamins A and D. When nutrients are added backin,it’s knownas fortifiedmilk.Skim and reduced-fatmilk contain justasmuchprotein,potassium and calciumas wholemilk all with fewer caloriesandless saturated fat.

OGURT

Making yogurtbeginswithmilk andgreat-for-the-gut bacteria. Reduced-fat yogurt made with reduced-fatmilk doesn’t taste asrichasfull-fat yogurt, so manufacturers willoftenadd sugarand sweetenersto livenup the taste, which results in extra calories. Checkoutthelabeland considermixingin your own fruit forflavor. It’sa healthy, convenientsnackthathas probiotics, proteinand calcium.

Roasted Garlic and Parmesan Corn Pudding

INGREDIENTS

4 garlic cloves(unpeeled)

Kernels(uncooked)cutfrom 4ears of corn (about 4 cups)

¾ cup2% milk

2 eggs

½ cuplow-fat,plain Greek yogurt

Severaldashes hot sauce (optional)

Salt and pepper totaste

1 Tbspfresh sage, chopped

½ cup reduced-fatgrated Parmesancheese

PREPARATION

Thedairysectioncanbedownright overwhelming,brimmingwithchoicesofmilk, yogurt,cheese,icecream,dips,dessertsand more.Butifyou’relookingforawaytomake healthierdecisionsatthegrocerystore,opting forlow-fatandlow-sugardairyproductsisafine placetostart,saysYikyungPark,ScD,associate professorofsurgeryatSitemanCancerCenter.

“Regularnonfator1%milkisagreatchoice. Ifyou’reusedtodrinkingwholemilk,easethe transitionbymovingfirstto2%,thenslowly workingdownto1%orskimmilk,”shesays.

“Plainlow-fatyogurtisalsoagreatdairyoption. Ifyouwanttoaddsomesweetness,trytoppingit withfreshorfrozenfruit,likestrawberries.”

Dairycontainscalcium—amineralthat’s integralforhealthyteethandbones—aswell asvitaminD,whichallowsthebodytoabsorb calcium.Manydairyproductsareterrificforthe gut:Althoughpeoplethinkofsauerkrautand kimchiwhenitcomestofermentedfoods,yogurt

andcottagecheesearealsomadewithbacteria thathelpcreateaflourishingmicrobiome.

Morerecent studies havesuggested that consuminglow-fatdairymaycombataslateof diseases.“It hasbeenfoundtolowertheriskof coloncancerandpossiblyheartdisease,”Park says.“Andwhenincludedaspartofanoverall healthydiet,low-fatdairymayhelpcontrol bloodpressure,aswellaslowertheriskof dyingprematurely.”

Noteverythinginthedairysectionishealthy, though.Whilecertainproducts,suchas chocolatemilkorneon-coloredcheese,sendup redflagsjustbylookingatthem,othersaren’t soobvious.Forexample,low-fatyogurtmay seemlikeanexcellentchoiceforasnack,but thelabelmightrevealsomeless-than-healthy ingredients.“It’sbesttolimitfruit-filledor flavoredyogurts,”Parksays.“Evenifthey’relow infat,theycancontainalotofaddedsugar.”

Finally,remembertobepatientin yoursearch. “It cantakealittletimeandabit ofpracticeto movetowardhealthier,low-fatdairyoptions,” Parksays,“butthehealthbenefitscanmakeit wellworthit.”

Preheat oven to350°F. Greasea 2-quart bakingdish, setin pan andfill panwithenough water toreachhalfway upthesidesof thedish. Addunpeeled garlic cloves to skilletonmediumhighheat. Turnoftenuntil there aresomedarkpatches onskin,about6–8minutes Remove fromheat.When garlic is coolenough to handle,peel and setaside. Setaside 1 cup of corn kernels.Add 3 cups of kernelsand garlic to blender Addinmilk,eggs,yogurtand hot sauce.Blenduntilsmooth. Add saltandpepper totaste andblend for afew more seconds Stirin sage and corn kernelsandpourintobaking dish. Topwith Parmesan cheese.Bakeforabout 1 hour, until topisbrowned.Ifnot firm,itmay needanadditional 15to 20minutes.Serve immediately assidedish.

NUTRITIONFACTS

Serves 6

175calories, 5g fat, 24g carbohydrate,12gprotein

ONTENT BYKATHERINELEWIS

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER

SPONSORED CONTENT B

CURRIED LENTILS

STORY BY PHOTOS BY BEN NICKELSON

It may be surprising to learn that curried lentils are among the most requested lunch items I prepare at Windsor Street Montessori School. Students know it’s “lentil day” from the aroma that wa s out of the kitchen, into the classrooms and out to the playground. Hearing children engage in meaningful dialogue as they describe the flavors they perceive is a reminder that kids, like well-bloomed spices, are capable of complexity and deserve a place at the table, too.  cupvegetableoil  garliccloves,finelyminced Tbspfreshginger,grated tspcuminseeds  tspcurrypowder tspcinnamon  yellowonions,dicedsmall largezucchini,dicedsmall tspsalt,plusmoretotaste ozdriedredlentils

/ preparation / Add the oil, garlic and ginger into a large, heavy pot; cook over medium heat until lightly golden brown. Bloom the cumin seed, curry powder and cinnamon by adding them to the pot and toasting until oils are released and it becomes very fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the onion and the zucchini, and season with salt; cook until the veggies soften slightly. Add the lentils and water. Stir well. Bring to a simmer, and cook on low until the lentils are soft, about 18 to 20 minutes. Taste, and adjust the flavor with more salt if needed. Serve over cooked rice, and top with fresh cilantro.

ONE on

Jitendra Sandhe / owner, GOKUL INDIAN RESTAURANT

RestaurantGokulDishesMust-TryFromIndian

In the Delmar Loop, Jitendra Sandhe proudly offers the city’s only 100 percent vegetarian and kosher Indian food menu at his eatery Gokul Indian Restaurant. The Navsari native originally debuted his plant-based concept in 2002 by introducing lesser-known dishes, including pani puri and chaat, to the area. The restaurant expanded over the years and became fully kosher in 2010 to better serve its wide-ranging customer base. With his thoughtfully developed dishes in tow, Sandhe is passionate about providing wholesome, health-conscious options for vegetarians from all walks of life.

Why did you want to open Gokul Indian Restaurant, and what inspired its name? I’m totally vegetarian and wanted to have a vegetarian restaurant to showcase street-style food from every region of India. So far, we are the only restaurant that is completely vegetarian and kosher in all of Missouri. Gokul is the town where Lord Krishna [of the Hindu faith] – which we believe in – spent his childhood.

How would you describe Gokul’s food? We have a slogan that is “100 percent vegetarian food with meatless pots and pans.” It’s a healthier food, and a lot of people are becoming vegetarian and vegan, so we have vegan options like vegetable

korma, which is a dish most preferred by all my customers, made with carrot, potato, onion, green peas, green beans, lima beans and cauliflower.

What has been the response from the local Indian and Jewish communities? It’s been really great. They’re all such nice, supportive people, and it makes me really happy to see them enjoy our food. They love our food, and we love them. We also have a lot of support from Washington University [in St. Louis] and Saint Louis University students and have become known around the city. We sell five different frozen entrées – available at three locations of Schnucks – and ship special orders from coast to coast.

What is the most rewarding part? I feel like it’s a small drop in the bucket, but less and less cows are cut every day. I’ve made a small difference and wish I could do more of this every day. We hope we have brought some awareness to the community. Our goal is to save the animals and let them live with all the same rights we have. There is a fine saying I like to quote: “Until one has loved an animal, a part of one’s soul remains unawakened.”

Gokul Indian Restaurant, 6101 Delmar Blvd., Delmar Loop, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-721-1888, gokulindianstlouis.com

paneer butter masala

This creamy curry is made with paneer, onion, tomatoes, cashews, cream, butter and flavorful garam masala and is available mild, medium or extra spicy.

aloo gobi

Cauliflower and potatoes – the stars of this dish – are sautéed with tomatoes and onion and seasoned with ginger, garlic, spices and cilantro.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

vegetable korma

This signature dish features a medley of vegetables and lima beans cooked in Indian spices and garnished with cashews, cream and raisins.

pro

Heena Chopra

chef-owner, Maaji’s Street Kitchen

WRITTEN BY HANNAH COFFMAN

At Maaji’s Street Kitchen, Heena Chopra designs spice blends and sauces that create rich flavors. She learned to cook Indian cuisine by watching her mother in the kitchen while growing up in New Delhi, India. Chopra prepares her food with fresh, organic ingredients, roasts spices to create versatile blends and develops sauces inspired by her mother’s original recipes. The organic mango lassi (made with just three ingredients – mango, yogurt and cane sugar), chicken curry and her unique masala sauce are customer favorites. Chopra recommends the following tools for those looking to cook Indian cuisine at home.

Maaji’s Street Kitchen, 3324 N. Lindbergh Blvd., Water Center Plaza, St. Ann, Missouri, 314-395-7173, maajisstreetkitchen.com

AIR FRYER

“[Ovens cook] dishes from the outside in, so sometimes, the temperature is not right, but an air fryer cooks them all the way through. Samosas are absolutely fantastic when air-fried, and they don’t need any extra oil. They are airy, light, buttery and flaky.”

STAINLESS STEEL COOKWARE

“In my kitchen, I am proud to say that everything is prepared using stainless steel. I chose stainless steel because it matters – when you’re cooking and add acidic ingredients like tomatoes or lemons, the coating on the pans leaches into the food. The color and taste of the food is different when it is cooked in cast iron pans because the material reacts with the ingredients of the dish.”

MULLIGATAWNY

SOUP

As we get into cooler weather, soup season is upon us. I first heard of this soup when I was in college and watching "Seinfeld." This was the Soup Nazi’s best soup before Elaine messed everything up! Mulligatawny was developed during the British colonization of India. The seasonings are Indian, but the way it is served and eaten, in a bowl and with a spoon, are British. There are endless recipes for this soup, but I prefer the ones with creamy coconut milk and li le bites of tart apple.

WRITTEN BY AMY FEESE PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

Get Hands-Onet

Join Schnucks Cooking School chef amy feese at 4 P.M. on Sat., Oct. 29 to learn how to make the dishes on this month’s menu. For more information on this class, contact the cooking school directly. for more information and to buy tickets, visit cooking-schoolnourish.schnucks.com/schnucks-orcall314-909-1704.

SERVES | 4 TO 6 |

2 Tbsp vegetable oil, divided

2 Tbsp unsalted bu er, divided

1 lb boneless, skinless chicken thighs

½ tsp salt

¼ tsp ground pepper

1 ½ tsp ground coriander

1 tsp ground cumin

In this class, we will learn about Indiancondiments.spicescuisine,and

¼ tsp cayenne pepper

1 tsp curry powder

1 large carrot, diced

1 large onion, chopped

1 tsp freshly grated ginger

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 Tbsp tomato paste

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

6 cups chicken stock

1 Granny Smith apple, diced

1 14-oz. can coconut milk

2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

₁⁄₃ cup cashews, chopped, for garnish

/ preparation / Cut chicken into ½-inch pieces, and toss with salt, pepper, coriander, cumin, cayenne and curry. In a heavybo omed soup pot over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil and melt 1 tablespoon bu er. When hot, drop in chicken and stir-fry until chicken turns white. Remove and set aside.

Add remaining tablespoon oil, and melt remaining bu er. Add carrot and onions to the pot; stir until onions are transparent. Stir in ginger and garlic until fragrant. Add tomato paste and flour, and cook for about 2 minutes, stirring and ensuring everything in the pot is evenly coated.

Add chicken, chicken stock and apples, stirring from the bo om to ensure any stuck bits are removed. Bring to a simmer, and reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Cover and cook for 10 minutes.

Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Stir in coconut milk and lemon juice, and then serve in a bowl with side of basmati rice.

RESTAURANTS

REVIEWED

Burger 809

At Burger 809 in Benton Park, chef and owner Tasha Smith makes a case that sliders can be both delicious, which isn’t surprising, and sometimes the preferable way to satisfy your burger craving, which is.

Where Burger 809, 1821 Cherokee St. (inside Bluewood Brewing), Missouri

More info 314-899-5959; burger809.com

Menu Sliders and some full-size burgers and sandwiches Hours 3 to 9 p.m. Wed.-Thurs., lunch and dinner Fri. to Sun. (closed Mon. and Tues.)

RESTAURANTS REVIEWED

From St. Louis Post-Dispatch Restaurant Critic Ian Froeb

READ

Taqueria Morita

When you sit at Taqueria Morita on a warm late-summer evening, knocking back half a dozen oysters zapped with tart yuzu and a teasing whisper of habanero chile or wondering whether your order of fish tacos will arrive at your table before the gathering thunderclouds do, the space feels unreal – a beachfront joint on the shores of the Central West End’s Cortex campus.

Where Taqueria Morita, 4260 Forest Park Ave. (outside Vicia), Missouri • More info 314-553-9239; taqueriamorita.com

Menu Tacos and other Mexican fare in an outdoor setting

Hours Dinner Thurs.-Sat., weather permitting

Station No. 3

If you have visited her original venture, Frida’s in University City, you already know Natasha Kwan has been at the forefront of plant-based dining in St. Louis for a decade now. At Station No. 3, she takes it to another level with vegan mozzarella sticks and soy-based “popcorn chicken.”

Where Station No. 3, 1956 Utah St., Missouri

More info 314-925-8883; station3stl.com

Menu Mostly vegan menu of burgers, sandwiches and other gastropub fare

Hours Dinner Tues. to Sat., lunch Fri. to Sat. (closed Sun. and Mon.)

himalayan yeti

There’s a Himalayan Himalayan cilantro, all in dough that’s steamed or all of Himalayan Yeti’s that are DINING

lal qila

everest cafe and bar

Since 2004, Everest Cafe and Bar has been cooking up traditional Nepalese, Indian and Korean cuisine in its kitchen in The Grove neighborhood. Not only are Devi and Maya States, the husband-and-wife team behind this business, set on serving diverse, delicious dishes to their community, but also, they are passionate about making those dishes as hearthealthy as possible. Some highlights include chicken tikka masala, which is tender, boneless chicken prepared in a creamy fresh tomato sauce with spices, and bi bim bop, which features a bed of steamed rice topped with mixed vegetables and a sunny-side-up egg with hot sauce.

4145 Manchester Ave., The Grove, St. Louis, everestinthegrovestl.comMissouri,

Lal Qila in Ballwin is one of only a few restaurants in the area serving up Pakistani-Indian cuisine. Choose from a menu showcasing naan in a variety of flavors, chicken or beef kebabs, goat korma and much more, or explore the bountiful buffet featuring four barbecued items (commonly chicken and kebabs), in addition to vegetable and chicken curries and

15222 Manchester Road, Ballwin, Missouri,

ONE on

with Robert Chuhan / cO-owner, Namaste

Robert, what are the main differences between Nepalese food and Indian food?

Nepalese food is more similar than [it is] different to Indian food because most of the spices are the same. For some curries, like Indian curry and Nepalese curry, [it] could look the same. Most of the spices are similar, but it still tastes different. It’s still the same spices, but I think it’s different because of the cooking style. Just like California chicken and Kentucky chicken, it’s like two different states – same recipe but different thoughts.

How did you and your brother Arzun start Namaste? What’s it like working together?

So, my brother was interested [in doing this as early as] high school; he started working in restaurants. He started from the back of the house, then kind of began in the kitchen. Once he got interested in cooking, he started running. He is gifted, so he was a quick learner. I would say there are two types of [chefs]: cook or artist. One, which is good, [and one, which] is gifted, which is him. He was so into it that he wanted to own his own restaurant. The second [type of chef] is me. I learned from him because we were short-staffed, and we’d been wanting to open this restaurant for a year. I learned from him and started cooking. That’s what I was – I was the student. I’m still a student. I’m still learning from him. Every day, I’m just helping him, which he really needs.

What was it like living in the refugee camp?

NamasteDishesMust-Tryat

WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER

Owned by brothers Robert and Arzun Chuhan, Namaste Restaurant & Bar serves up classic Nepalese dishes in the Southampton neighborhood. The restaurant’s decorations also give patrons a taste of Nepal, from a traditional Nepalese house display to annual Dussehra holiday decorations. “Some people don’t even know what Nepal is,” Robert Chuhan says. “We wanted to introduce our food, our culture – it’s so rich and colorful. We wanted to introduce that to the community here.” The Chuhan brothers arrived in St. Louis when they came to the United States at ages 14 and 16. For most of their lives before then, they lived in a refugee camp in Nepal, where their parents relocated from Bhutan. After discovering a passion for cooking, Arzun Chuhan decided to open Namaste with the help of his brother in October 2021.

At that time, being in the camp was miserable. Now, looking back, it was fun. Walking a mile to school with a bunch of friends, you’d have hundreds of people going the same direction, walking in the rain, the fog or the sun. [At the] time, [it] was miserable. Now, it’s like, ‘Hey, it was so much fun walking with friends and all.’ The experience of being in the camp was for the best because when you look at it, almost everyone who came from the camp is doing better. Because of the experience in the camp, everyone wanted to do better. [If] you go to Pennsylvania, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee or California, where these communities are, you’ll see most of them are advancing; they have their own businesses. The miserable condition we were in in the camp pushed us to do better. We have opportunity here, so that motivated all of us to do better. And I think we are just starting.

Why did you choose St. Louis as the home for Namaste?

We were pretty old when we came into the United States. It felt like my hometown because when I first came into the U.S., it was like a birth for us. St. Louis is like my second birthplace. Like when you see the Gateway Arch when you come into Downtown St. Louis, you’re like, ‘This is my town. This is my house.’

Namaste Restaurant & Bar, 4915 Hampton Ave., Southampton, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-696-8585, namasterestaurantnbar.com

This chicken platter is served with rice, dal (lentil soup), a curry, steamed, spiced spinach and a deep-fried wafer.

Popular in Nepal, India and Pakistan, this delicious dessert is made with a milk-based dough that is fried and then soaked in rose water and sugar syrup.

jhol momo

These traditional steamed dumplings are served in a tomato-based soup flavored with lapsi powder and sesame seeds and can be made vegetarian or with chicken.

chicken thali

Robert Chuhan and Arzun Chuhan, photo by Charlotte Renner

gulab jamun

Photo by Charlotte Renner

Photo

Masala Soda

Masala Soda is a classic Indian summer beverage. “It is very popular in Bombay, and it has such an unbeatable taste – besides [the fact] that it aids digestion – and hence, it is a great accompaniment to any food,” says Krupa Panchal, chef-owner of Bombay Food Junkies in Creve Coeur, Missouri. Masala Soda goes by different names in different regions of India, Panchal notes, such as Goti Soda in Gujarat and Banta Soda in the South. Whatever you call it, this beverage’s sweet, savory and sour notes are sure to refresh.

YIELDS | ONE 12-OZ CUP |

CHAAT MASALA

2 Tbsp cumin seeds

2 Tbsp dried mango powder (amchoor)

1 Tbsp dried pomegranate seeds

1 Tbsp black salt (or pink salt/sea salt)

½ tsp black peppercorns

LEMON SIMPLE SYRUP

½ cup water

1 cup fresh lemon juice

1 ½ cups sugar

MASALA SODA

2 Tbsp lemon simple syrup (see recipe below)

2 Tbsp fresh lime juice

1 Tbsp chaat masala (see recipe below) pinch of salt

2-3 ice cubes

1 fresh lime wedge (for garnish)

2-3 fresh mint leaves (for garnish, optional) 12 oz unsweetened sparkling water

/ preparation – chaat masala / In a small skillet, roast the cumin seeds on low heat for 2 to 3 minutes until they turn dark brown and highly aromatic. Let them cool completely. Add the seeds and all the other ingredients into a grinder, and grind to a fine powder. Keep in an air-tight container in a cool, dry place.

/ preparation – lemon simple syrup / Pour all three ingredients into a saucepan, and whisk until wellcombined. Bring to a boil; let cool completely. Strain the liquid to remove any impurities from the sugar. Store in an air-tight container in the refrigerator. Stays fresh for one month.

/ preparation – masala soda / In a 12-oz cup, add lemon simple syrup, fresh lime juice and chaat masala and mix well with a spoon until combined. Add ice and sparkling water, and stir well. Garnish with the lime wedge and mint leaves. Add more or less of the chaat masala as preferred.

RECIPE BY KRUPA PANCHAL, CHEF-OWNER OF BOMBAY FOOD JUNKIES STORY BY MARY ANDINO

Mideast Market

WRITTEN BY HANNAH COFFMAN | PHOTOS BY SEAN LOCKE

Rashed Kazmi launched Mideast Market in Manchester, Missouri 24 years ago with a mission to bring Pakistani, Indian and Middle Eastern cuisine to the St. Louis area. Over the years, he has expanded the initial 600-square-foot space into a 20,000-square-foot store that offers everything from tahini to Turkish candy to baklava to mangos and juices imported from Pakistan. The food featured at Mideast Market is sourced from more than 20 countries. Kazmi is also a primary local supplier of certified Zabiha Halal meat, including goat, lamb, beef and chicken. Six months ago, Kazmi expanded his business to the online market and began offering delivery all over the U.S. Although Kazmi draws customers from a large 300-mile radius, this year, he set out to focus on the needs of his local customers. His store won the Business of the Year 2022 award from the city of Manchester, Missouri, for its unique dishes and excellent service. While customers shop, they can also grab a quick and flavorful meal from the in-store café, which offers takeout and dine-in. Gyros, samosas and kebabs are bestsellers, as are the garbanzo bean salad and chaat (a savory chickpea dish). Kazmi seasons the dishes to the customer’s preference, which can range from mild to heavily spiced. To satisfy those with a sweet tooth, Kazmi offers sugar cane juice that is made fresh for each customer.

Mideast Market, 14375 Manchester Road, Manchester, Missouri, 636-230-7018, mideastmarket.net

Must-Have Products to Make Southeast Asian Cuisine

at Home

GOAT MEAT

Used in dishes such as Haleem (a hearty meat and lentil stew), Kazmi says that goat meat is an essential ingredient. The slightly sweet and tangy flavor pairs well with spices like chile powder, cardamom and cinnamon.

YOGURT

Yogurt is a staple product used to create bases for stews and sauces. From curry to raita (a yogurt and cucumber dish that originated in India), Kazmi says it is a versatile, go-to ingredient for both vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes.

KARAHI PAN

A karahi is a deep, wide pan traditionally used for cooking curries and sauces. Kazmi recommends this pan, which holds heat exceptionally well, in order to achieve the best results when making Southeast Asian cuisine at home.

Rashed Kazmi pictured in the Mideast Market Cafe with an industrial-sized Kahahi pan.

AdamLambay

“Adam Lambay’s Indian Inspired” is a love letter to the St. Louis chef’s family and their multifaceted culinary heritage.

STORY

ADAM LAMBAY

Most of Adam Lambay’s fondest childhood memories began by waking up to the alluring aromas of curry, toasted cumin and caramelized onions simmering on the stovetop. He grew up developing his palate among the fragrant spices in his father’s Indian home-cooked dishes and the comforting family meals and baked goods prepared by maternal grandmother – a daughter of first-generation German immigrants who once owned a thriving bakery in downtown St. Louis.

“I can remember going to my grandma’s house and having pot roast on Sunday made with garlic, beef and onions, and then going home to have beef curry that my dad made,” the St. Louisbased chef says. “As a li le kid, it got me thinking about how you can get such drastically different flavors out of the same ingredients. That’s the

moment that truly made me want to become a chef. Trying to wrap my brain around that dichotomy was the match that lit the fire.”

This fall, “Adam Lambay’s Indian Inspired” demonstrates the best of both worlds together in a 10-episode digital series featured on CreateTV.com. Lambay submi ed a cooking video to Create TV's 'Create Cooking Challenge: My Family's Recipe,' a contest run by American Public Television, for the opportunity to show off his skills on a national stage, reigning as the grand-prize winner out of more than 100 entries. A panel of judges including luminary Martin Yan of “Yan Can Cook” deemed Lambay’s personal storytelling something worth sharing with aspiring cooks across the country. Nine PBS received funds from Create to promote the digital series to the St. Louis market.

Lambay currently serves as the executive chef at the Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark, with more than 30 years of experience in hospitality under his belt. As a graduate of Sullivan University, he has worked in high-end restaurants in addition to serving as a professional chef consultant, chef instructor and cookbook contributor. While working as the executive chef of Chaume e Vineyards & Winery from 2008 to 2015, he also ran an Indian food pop-up with his mom and dad.

In his series, Lambay proudly highlights his heritage and offers a unique perspective on Indian fare based on his experiences. He welcomes guests into his kitchen with a set of conversational stories told over masterfully prepared fusion recipes that serve as an entry point for anyone interested in incorporating Indian-influenced cuisine into their everyday repertoire.

“I can remember riding my bike around as a kid and smelling curry in the neighborhood; eventually, friends asked me, ‘What is that weird smell?’” he says. “I wound up introducing all my friends to Indian food and curries, and they loved it. I even went to their houses and taught them how to make it. I always tell my dad that he inspired generations of curry lovers through a group of people who wouldn’t have been brave enough to give it a try otherwise. He made it accessible to them through his food.”

The subject of Lambay’s winning contest entry, “Moka with Pupper,” which he describes as “scrambled eggs with an Indian twist” is one such introductory dish that he calls “a tasty breakfast for everyone – even kids will enjoy it.” It features onions, cumin seed, eggs, tomato, curry powder and chile flakes and is garnished with fresh herbs and served with fried bread made with lentil flour.

I wanted to make things that would make it possible for me to sit at a table with the pickiest eaters I know and some of the most adventurous people I know in order to make it all approachable.

“My dad is from Mumbai and couldn’t believe that of all the things I know how to cook, including royal Indian dishes, that this was the one I chose to feature – the most humble fishing village dish, his recipe that he has made my entire life,” Lambay says. “I told him that’s where the magic is and what has the love in it. That’s why it works.”

Each episode demonstrates how to build flavor in Indian cooking using techniques, such as tempering spices, applied creatively to recognizable American classics including pot roast, pizza, caprese salad and a crab cakepakora (Indian chickpea fritter) mash-up. The pot roast, for instance, is seared and braised just like grandma’s version but with the addition of Indian spices, finished with yogurt and served atop turmeric mashed potatoes.

“I thought of some of the things I make for the kids and things inspired by my wife and tried to twist those enough that they seemed American but were very Indian in regards to flavor and approach,” Lambay says. “I wanted to make things that would make it possible for me to sit at a table with the pickiest eaters I know and some of the most adventurous people I know in order to make it all approachable. I’ve done my job when everyone at the table is going to be happy and full with a big smile on their face.”

“Adam Lambay’s Indian Inspired” is now available to watch. Visit lambays-indian-inspired.createtv.com/originals/adamcubed Yukon cauliflower, bite-sized bite-sized bite-sized Basmati

/ preparation / Warm the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pan on medium-high heat. When the oil starts to shimmer, add the cumin seed, bay leaves and cinnamon stick. When the cumin seeds start to brown (30 to 40 seconds), add the onions and turn the heat to medium. Sauté the onions until they begin to brown on the edges.

Turn off the heat, remove the onions from the pan, and place on a plate to cool. Reserve as much oil as possible in the pan, and return it to a medium-high heat. Add remaining 1 teaspoon cumin seed, cardamom pods and red pepper flakes. Immediately add the butternut squash and crushed garlic cloves. Stir-fry for about 2 minutes.

Add fenugreek, potatoes, cauliflower, carrots, crushed tomato, turmeric and madras-style curry powder. Turn the heat to a simmer on low for 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add vegetable stock and stir; let simmer for 5 minutes. Add broccoli; stir and simmer for 3 minutes.

Remove half of the vegetable curry from the pan. Add two cups of the cooked Basmati rice and half of the onions. Fold gently to mix. Add the rest of the vegetable curry, cooked Basmati rice and onions. Gently fold in as best you can, as the pan will be very full. Cover, turn off the heat, and allow to steam for 10 minutes. Serve, and enjoy!

WRITTEN BY ADAM LAMBAY OF LAMBAY’S INDIAN INSPIRED”

Autumn Vegetable Biryani

Chicken Bezule Bombay Sliders

RANJUL DAYAL IS A SELF-PROFESSED

OF THE PUBLIC’S PERCEPTION OF WHAT INDIAN FOOD IS.

When Dayal first arrived in St. Louis 20 years ago, he says there were only a few Indian restaurants in operation – all of which served the same classic Indian cuisine staples. Now, he says, there are at least 18 in the metro area, but diverse Indian menus still aren’t the norm. That’s where Turmeric comes in, with one location in the Delmar Loop and one at the City Foundry.

“My mom used to cook so much variety, so I’ve been exposed to a lot of dishes,” Dayal says. “Indian cuisine has so many cultural differences. When we started [Turmeric], we wanted to make sure that we got items from every part of India.”

According to Dayal, the cuisine in India changes about every 100 to 200 kilometers. Even the difference in cooking a single ingredient, like chicken, can be vastly different in the northern region versus the southern region.

Turmeric’s Delmar Loop location features dishes from every region of India. The menu features a traditional Central- and Southern-style of biryani, a mixed-rice dish. The dosas, a thin and crispy crepe, are from the South. The vegetarian entrées originate from the North and West, like the paneer bu er masala (homemade cheese, tomato, fresh cream and clarified bu er) and banaras bharwan aloo (potatoes, dry fruits, royal shallots, co age cheese and almond sauce).

Even more diverse is the “Turmeric Creations” section of the menu. Here, the chefs at Turmeric have creative freedom to make dishes that stand out from traditional Indian offerings. Take the rack of New Zealand spring lamb, for instance. “It’s a specialty dish, so it takes longer to cook, but then you also have items in it that are very different from any of the other options,” Dayal says.

The well-done lamb chops are marinated in spices and herbs, then baked in a tandoor (a traditional Northern Indian clay oven) with Dijon mustard. Then, it’s served with a mint rogan sauce, pan-fried broccoli and spinach and kitchari (a lentil-based dish).

Another “Turmeric Creation” is the char-grilled masala halibut. All of the masalas at Turmeric are made from scratch, which Dayal says adds to

“FOOD JUNKIE,” SO IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT TURMERIC, A RESTAURANT HE CO-OWNS, PUSHES THE BOUNDARIES

RANJUL DAYAL

Rack of New Zealand spring lamb

the quality of each dish in which they’re featured. The spice-roasted Malibu halibut filet is cooked with spinach poriyal, yogurt-fenugreek sauce and lemon rice. It’s served wrapped on a banana leaf.

Dayal thinks many people don’t explore the lesser-known Indian dishes because of the stereotype that Indian cuisine is super spicy, which he disagrees with. “It’s not like hot spices; we try to make it more flavorful,” Dayal says. “So when people say that it’s a spicy food, we say, ‘Yes, we have spices in our food.’ We want to bring that punch into our dishes, but it’s not the hot

Turmeric’sspice.”

City Foundry location’s menu focuses more on Indian street-style food, though the concept still sources recipes from all over India. There, you can find dosa rolls, kati rolls and rice bowls with choices ranging from Chettinad mushrooms to Andhra chilli chicken. Order a mango lassi to wash it down.

You can also get a mango lassi at Turmeric’s location in the Loop, along with other Indian drinks and a full bar menu. Some of the traditional Indian drinks include masala chai, Madras coffee and falooda (rose-flavored milk, vermicelli, sweet basil seeds and ice cream).

Turmeric prioritizes a modern plating approach to pair with their innovative menu, which makes for an altogether “posh” vibe, as Dayal calls it. For example, the Turmeric sampler platter’s five items are served on a long platter, and the chefs make designs with the sauces they include. “The whole thing is appealing,” Dayal says. “If it looks good, then you feel good about it when you first taste it.”

As a whole, Dayal’s goal with Turmeric is to expose the St. Louis community to the true nuances of Indian cuisine and culture.

“The best part is meeting all the customers and hearing them appreciate the food that we bring,” Dayal says. “That actually motivates me to do more and more.”

One day, Dayal hopes to open more Turmeric locations in St. Louis County and other cities to help spread more awareness about what Indian food and culture really is.

“I think Indian cuisine is definitely expanding in St. Louis,” Dayal says. “There is still room for growth here.”

Turmeric, multiple locations, turmericstl.com

Turmeric Non-Veg Classic Platter