Winter 2023-24 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

Inspired Local Food Culture

WINTER 2023

A Tour of STL’s Best Doughnuts Desserts Down Memory Lane

RISING STARS

&Industry

Innovators

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

BLEED

Celebra a te Celebr Ev ery Occasion Occa sion

TRIM

WE DELIVER!

SCAN TO SHOP 1

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

BLEED

IN THIS ISSUE 8

BEST BITES

Feast’s Winter Food and Drink Recs

Shop 10

MIDWEST MADE Locally Crafted Pasta

WHAT’S IN STORE Parker’s Table

STL SPOTLIGHT

Photo by Emily Standlee

Handmade Caramels

Dine 14

GO GREEN The Table STL

INSIDE SCOOP 3 Must-Try New Restaurants

FEAST FAVES Benton Park

20 NOSTALGIC DESSERTS ON THE COVER: Sweet treats with memory-driven ﬂavors perfect for the holidays Photo by Jennifer Silverberg

Discover 26 CRASH COURSE Microgreens

Photo by Jennifer Silverberg

30 FAT-WASHED COCKTAILS This practice will infuse a new level of ﬂavor into your mixed drinks

32 CULINARY CRAWL Doughnut Shops

Community 34 GIVE BACK Food-Focused Nonproﬁts

36 A NEW ERA OF COLLEGE DINING Washington University in St. Louis’ new dining program brings local restaurants into the fold

Features 41

RISING STARS These emerging culinarians are determined to make their mark

49 INDUSTRY INNOVATORS The movers and shakers of the STL food scene

56 LAST CALL Chris Kuse of Grand Spirits Bottle Co.

Photo by Jennifer Silverberg

Photo by Christina Kling-Garrett

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WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

Inspired Local Food Culture | St. Louis

DIGITAL CONNECTION

Visit our website to stay connected to food and drink news, explore neighborhood guides and find simple yet stunning recipes. While you’re there, make sure to look for the expanded stories from this quarterly issue. As you flip through these pages, scan the QR codes with your phone camera to read more on our website.

Winter 2023 | Volume 13 | Issue 7 PUBLISHER Ian Caso

Editorial MANAGING EDITOR Charlotte Renner, crenner@feastmagazine.com

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DIGITAL EDITOR Shannon Weber, sweber@feastmagazine.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR Emily Standlee, estandlee@feastmagazine.com MULTIMEDIA REPORTER Daniel Puma, dpuma@feastmagazine.com

FIND THE LATEST > NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES

PROOFREADER Alecia Humphreys

feastmagazine.com/restaurants/guides CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Aurora Blanchard, Rebecca Davis, Madyson Dixon

Art ART DIRECTOR

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Dawn Deane, dawn.deane@feastmagazine.com ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Laura DeVlieger, ldevlieger@laduenews.com CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Judd Demaline, Christina Kling-Garrett, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen

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Distribution Visit stltoday.com/subscribe to have Feast delivered to your home, or pick up a copy of the March 3 edition of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch for the spring issue.

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LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Every year, I start to dread the frigid temperatures that winter brings. However, I remember all the wonderful parts, too: holiday traditions with friends and family, warm drinks in steaming mugs and – how could I forget? – Feast’s annual Rising Stars and Industry Innovators issue. Throughout the year, these shining stars turned their inner fire into something tangible to be enjoyed by all, whether we’re picking up a meal at a farmers market or ordering a drink at a time-honored restaurant. On p. 43, discover how Eddie Hsia taught himself the art of mixology as a way to breathe new life into Saigon Cafe’s drink menu. Meet the minds behind two of the year’s most anticipated restaurant openings – Mainlander Supper Club and Bagel Union – on p. 42 and p. 48, respectively.

Charlotte Renner, managing editor Photo by Christina Kling-Garrett; taken at Bowood by Niche Illustrations by Nermina Ferkic

And then we have our Industry Innovators. This group of intrepid thinkers’ influence on the industry is changing it for the better. Meet Rage Gray, the market manager at One Africa! One Nation! Farmers Market, and learn how the organization has evolved to fill a hole in North County (p. 54). On p. 50, Lazy Tiger bar manager David Greteman’s use of hydrosols opens up a world of possibilities for non-alcoholic cocktails. With all these new ideas, it’s worth a look back at fond memories. Just in time for the holidays, we asked local chefs how they infuse nostalgia into their dishes (p. 20). Our recipe developers also brainstormed desserts that riff on the classic treats of your childhood. Fresh, local produce can be hard to find this time of year, but adding greenery to your dishes is simple. Dive deep into the nuanced world of microgreens by reading our Crash Course on p. 26. If you’re like us, you may have a sweet tooth to go along with those sprouts; on p. 32, follow the perfect route around St. Louis to hit five of our city’s best doughnut shops. As you search for a local organization to support this holiday season, glance through our Give Back column on p. 34. It showcases a few food-focused nonprofits in the area who need your support. Finally, we’d be remiss if we didn’t thank our former editor in chief Emily Adams, who influenced this issue – and the entire Niche Publications team – in all the very best ways. We wish her luck as she takes on new opportunities. As we welcome in a new year, I invite you to brave the wintry weather and explore St. Louis’ exemplary food and drink in this issue. There’s always something new being cooked up around here. Cheers,

Charlotte Renner

Thank You

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BEST BITES

The Feast team’s

f avorite dishes and drinks of the season

Written by Feast staff Photos by Christina Kling-Garrett

Black Salt BUTTER PANEER If you haven’t been to Black Salt, you’re missing out. The restaurant’s menu of street food, naan and vegetarian mains is miles away from average. The butter paneer is no exception; it’s a classic at its best in which every ingredient shines.

Eat DuckBill | BRUSSELS SPROUTS Nestled inside Platypus in The Grove, Eat DuckBill is churning out tray after tray of fried chicken, cauliflower, crispy tofu and – drum roll, please – some of the best Brussels sprouts you’ll find in the city. Deep-fried until crispy and tossed in an agave mustard sauce, these sprouts’ tang and char set them apart.

Road Crew Coffee & Cycles ESPRESSO TONIC Road Crew’s espresso tonic is the perfect coffee drink to quench your thirst; it’ll take true willpower to resist gulping it down the second the barista sets it down next to you. Although the plain espresso tonic is a gem in its own right, if you see the seasonal orange espresso tonic on the menu, don’t think twice.

Evangeline’s Bistro & Music House | RAMOS GIN FIZZ Evangeline’s has one of the best weekend brunches in the city, and its cocktail menu includes New Orleans classics like the Ramos Gin Fizz. A notoriously Photo by Emily Standlee

time-consuming drink to make, it’s a luscious mix of Beefeater simple syrup, orange flower

Fiddlehead Fern Café POMPEIA SALAD

water and egg white.

Need a winter pick-me-up? The Pompeia

gin, fresh citrus juices, cream,

Salad from Fiddlehead Fern Café – piled high with kale, greens, microgreens from

Photo by Suzy

P an Gorm

p gra oto

GoodLife Growing, pickled red cabbage, edamame, chickpeas, Union Loafers sourdough croutons and a housemade vegan Caesar dressing – is a riot of color and texture that’ll kick the cold to the curb.

Sunday Best THE PRESBYTERIAN There’s no better year-round cocktail than The Presbyterian, which offers an undeniably broad appeal. At Sunday Best, it’s a mix of Old Grandad or Four Ginger Ale and lemon whirled with local favorite Big O Ginger Liqueur – a grace note that keeps things interesting.

Photo by Shannon Weber

Roses bourbon, Blenheim’s Hot

Duke Bakery | CREAM HORN Duke Bakery has been making cakes, bread buns and other treats in the Metro East since 1951, but one of its standout signature desserts is the prized cream horn. Piped with velvety icing, these horn-shaped delicacies are dusted in powdered sugar. They’re decadent and definitely worth a drive over the river.

Everest Café & Bar | VEGETABLE SAMOSAS A favorite in The Grove since 2004, Everest consistently blows our socks off with its Nepalese, Indian and Korean fare. Try the vegetable samosas – little pyramids with a creamy potato-and-pea filling and a fluffy-yet-crisp coating. The accompanying tangy tamarind sauce seals the deal.

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

SHOP MIDWEST MADE

PASTA

to Plate Handmade pasta

crafted by St. Louis artisans

o to

by B r

ett Cr

plate of homemade pasta in the winter is a transportive experience that warms the body from the inside out. But the pasta-making process is one that can add hours onto your meal-prep time if you

do it yourself. Here, we’ve tracked down a few stellar St. Louis-made pasta products that are quick and easy to finish at home. Written by Aurora Blanchard | Photos provided

Nonna’s Homestyle Foods Co-owned by father-son duo Joe and Anthony Moreno, Nonna’s has a decades-long history with the St. Louis food scene. Joe Moreno was working at a different ravioli company for 40 years, but when the standard of quality plummeted, he struck out on his own and opened Nonna’s. “I’ve been blessed,” Joe Moreno says. “It’s not easy to leave a place and start a business. I was lucky my wife was behind me and everything worked out. It just took a bit of time.” Nonna’s best in-store sellers are toasted ravioli, cannelloni and boiled ravioli. Seventy percent of its business comes from restaurants on The Hill – Joey B’s and Guido’s, to name a few. 6814 Gravois Ave., Princeton Heights, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-556-9582

Midwest Pasta Company Owner David Burmeister started Midwest Pasta Co. 12 years ago with an eye on traditional pasta-making methods – he’d previously purchased the restaurant Mangia Italiano when he was only 25 years old. “We honor the Old World technique,” Burmeister says. “We make laminated pasta, which is more like what you would make at home.” The dedication to quality extends to its ingredients, which include local cage-free eggs and locally milled flour. Some of Midwest Pasta Co.’s bestsellers are egg linguine (best served with olive oil, shredded cheese and cracked black pepper); butternut squash ravioli (best served with sage brown butter, Manchego cheese, pomegranate seeds and arugula); and sweet potato gnocchi (recommended with a light cream sauce or

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

brown butter sauce). Midwest Pasta Co. products can be purchased at its Cherokee Street storefront and in more than 180 stores regionally. 2023 Cherokee St., Benton Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-772-7560, midwestpastaco.com

Vicini Dawn Wilson opened Vicini pastaria, café & market as a brick and mortar in November 2022, but she’s been selling pasta at markets and boutiques since 2016. Wilson learned to make thick, rustic pici pasta in Tuscany. “It’s perfectly imperfect because of the hand-rolling,” Wilson says. “There’s a certain level of variability with the texture, with certain parts being thicker, chewier or more tender. It’s certainly a labor of love.” She recommends pairing the pici with a cacio e pepe-style sauce or a hearty ragu. Another customer favorite is the goat cheese ravioli served with vodka sauce, and vegans rejoice over her eggless casarecce with dairy-free pea-mint pesto. Vicini offers dine-in counter-service lunch, online ordering, curbside pick-up and an in-store retail pasta shop, plus an Italian and local specialty food market and home décor boutique. 1916 Park Ave., Lafayette Square, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-827-6150, vicinipastaria.com

Scan the code to read more about Vicini, our 2023 Feast 50 award winner for Best New Restaurant.

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SHOP WHAT’S IN STORE

From wine to artisan gifts, Parker’s Table is a must-visit for your holiday needs.

Parker’s

TABLE Written by Rebecca Davis Photos by Christina Kling-Garrett

arker’s Table has evolved from modest wine shop to renowned “charcuterie superstore” over the last decade. Serving St. Louis’ Richmond Heights neighborhood and beyond, it hosts an exceptional selection of global beverages, artisanal cheeses and gourmet delights. As winter weather makes its way into St. Louis, Parker’s Table unveils festive weekend wine tastings, exclusive holiday products and an expanded inventory. This neighborhood staple ensures patrons can explore an even wider array of flavors during the colder months, which solidifies its reputation as a destination for discerning palates and those seeking unique holiday indulgences. Parker’s Table came to fruition for owner Jon Parker after years of working in the local restaurant industry. What started as a wine and specialty food shop in downtown Clayton in 1995 evolved over time into a more comprehensive shopping experience, as Parker added cheeses, meats, deli sandwiches, local and imported grocery offerings and an event space – all under one roof at his current location in Richmond Heights. Since 2011, Parker’s Table has been growing and evolving at the corner of Oakland and Yale. In spring of 2024, Parker plans to open The Yale Bar directly to the east of the shop. “I think we’re just part of the fabric of this whole culture that’s here [in this neighborhood],” Parker’s Table chief wine buyer Simon Lerher says. “Most of the other places have multiple locations, [but] Jon has always focused on one spot.” What really sets Parker’s Table apart is its constantly changing inventory, which can be especially exciting during the holiday season. Currently, the shelves are stuffed with artisanal pasta, locally roasted coffees and teas, cookies and small-batch chocolates. Mixology novices will find an impressive array of cocktail fixings to craft their favorite libations. Parker’s Table is also home to regular wine classes, which offer an ideal opportunity to learn your way around the bottle and stay warm this winter. The classes are based on region, color or wine type and are held in an intimate setting and led by two experts. “Some people are there to learn as much as they can about it, some people are there more for the social aspect of it, and a lot of people are there to taste new things and discuss it with their friends,” Lerher says. “By having two instructors, we can pivot and rotate and make sure that everybody’s taken care of.” Make sure to also take advantage of the shop’s free regular weekend wine tastings and ticketed wine-centered dinners. Learn more about events, special products and more at parkerstable.com.

Scan the code to see three recommendations for wintertime gifts from Parker’s Table.

7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, Missouri, 314-645-2050, parkerstable.com

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

STL SPOTLIGHT

SHOP

Crafty

Caramels

Whether you want to surprise a loved one with a box of salted caramels or keep them all to yourself this holiday, these three St. Louis candy companies are making candies that are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. Written by Rachel Layton

Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Company

The shop also offers seasonal and holiday options, such as chocolate-

Dan Abel founded his candy-making business Chocolate Chocolate

covered marshmallows and strawberries.

Chocolate Co. in 1981. Throughout the years, it has expanded tremendously and is now known for the high quality of its caramels.

Multiple locations, merbscandies.com

Each candy has a unique handmade design. “I think there’s a misconception that we push a button and out pops [candy], but when you come to the factory and see how much hand work goes into the products, it gives [you] an appreciation for it,” says second-generation chocolatier Christina Abel, Dan Abel’s daughter. Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate Co. offers two different styles of caramels: chewy traditional caramel and liquid caramel, which is used for bars and bites. A few of the business’ offerings include vanilla, chocolate, raspberry and pecan caramels. The shop also crafts specialized candies like waffle cone caramel bars and seasonal pumpkin pie caramel. To learn more about caramel-making, factory tours are available. “It really is fun to educate the consumer on how we make our products,” Christina Abel says.

The Caramel House Small-business owner Janet Ansehl Shulman first started making treats as a means of supplying local restaurants and catering companies with fresh desserts. When she was asked to create caramel candy by a restaurant, it opened up a whole new world. “I had never made candy before, but I said yes,” she explains. “I didn’t know what I was getting into.” Shulman went on to found The Caramel House and began hand-making “the caramel that doesn’t stick,” which became her business’ signature tagline. The Caramel House – now 15 years old – has a brick and mortar where Shulman handcrafts and sells candies like caramel turtles, Killer Caramel-Stuffed Cannoli and

Multiple locations, chocolatechocolate.com

more. She always begins her candy-making with a base of her ‘Simply Salted’ caramel composed of five ingredients. From there, things get interesting: The salted caramels can be infused with anything from

Merbs Candies

coffee and lavender to beer and bourbon – there are three dozen

A staple in the St. Louis community, Merbs Candies has been in the

flavors to choose from in-store. Additionally, custom flavors can be

sweets business for three generations. It was founded in 1921 and has

made for corporate functions, and The Caramel House offers gluten-

locations on South Grand Boulevard and in South County. The family

and peanut-free treats and customized baskets perfect for gift-giving.

business handcrafts its caramel along with all of its candies and treats. Notable staples include Snappers, which look like chocolate-

9639 Olive Blvd., Olivette,

covered turtles, and delectable caramel tubs. Merbs caramel can even

Missouri, 314-972-3777,

be topped with pecans for an added touch of flavor and texture.

thecaramelhouse.com

Scan the code to discover where to find another wintry treat: handmade fudge.

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

DINE GO GREEN

The Table STL EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT ONE OF ST. LOUIS’ BEST INFUSED DINNER CLUBS. Written by Madyson Dixon | Photos by Judd Demaline

hat started as a food-prep catering service is now a cannabis dinner club backed by two Cannabis Hall of Fame award-winning chefs: Darren McLemore and current Hall of Fame Director Kristopher Nelson. Nelson’s journey to cooking with cannabis began nine years ago, when a friend gifted him a hemp salad dressing. From there, the first infused dish he ever prepared was a rosemary-smoked grilled chicken. Inspired by the possibilities, Nelson honed in on the skills he learned from his family and began infusing Korean dishes and barbecue with cannabis. Nelson met McLemore at the now-shuttered Drunken Fish in Ballpark Village, where Nelson was a bartender and McLemore was a sushi chef in the back of house. The duo combined their mutual love of cannabis with Nelson’s experience and McLemore’s training in Japanese-style cuisine and sushi preparation, and in December 2022, The Table STL was born.

Nelson has 12 years of medical cannabis knowledge, so he takes care of the dosing while McLemore focuses on recipe development and promotion. Each dinner typically contains about 10 milligrams of THC. “I treat it just like smoking meat – low and slow,” Nelson explains. He says keeping the doses lower allows guests to focus on enjoying the food. CBD water and infused lemonade are available if guests want to level up their experience. The Table STL has held its most recent elevatedcasual events at Work & Leisure on Locust Street. Guests trickle in during the scheduled cocktail hour, where they can enjoy a provided THC-infused cocktail or purchase a drink from the Work & Leisure mixologist. After finding their seats, the multi-course meal – which can be ordered infused or non-infused – begins. The Table STL’s goal is to connect with the community, which they do in a variety of ways. The meat is locally sourced from farmers, and the produce comes from local farmers markets. The business also frequently collaborates with St. Louis chefs like Nick Williams of Nicky Slices. Guests can purchase tickets to The Table STL through Eventbrite. Follow The Table STL on Instagram for updates on future dinners. The Table STL,

At the time, cannabis was only available for medical use, and Nelson says the community wasn’t as accepting of cannabis concepts as it is now. “Before, we used to have to fight for everything,” Nelson says. But times have changed – recreational cannabis became legal to purchase in Missouri in February 2023; today, The Table STL is an immersive cannabis dinner club for anyone 21 and over.

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

instagram.com/ thetable.stl

Get The Table STL’s Infused Smoked Salmon and Root Veggies recipe here.

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WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

DINE INSIDE SCOOP

3 new restaurants around St. Louis worth checking out this season Written by Feast staff | Photos by Mabel Suen

n St. Louis, we’re lucky enough to experience new restaurants opening all the time. Here are a few recently launched spots that will give you an excuse

to explore a new menu and perhaps even a new neighborhood. To read Feast’s full Inside Scoops on each restaurant, scan the accompanying QR codes.

Photo by Shannon Weber

El Molino del Sureste El Molino del Sureste is the second concept from Alex Henry, who opened Sureste in City Foundry STL in 2021 to much acclaim. At El Molino, he’s diving deeper into the cuisine of the Yucatán. During the day, the multi-concept space operates as a dedicated molino (mill) and retail operation where customers can purchase fresh masa products; in the evenings, it transforms into a family-style restaurant on one side and an intimate bar area with small plates on the other. “The dining room is an ode to our sacred weekly family dinner ritual, and the molino symbolizes the fresh masa shops we visited spending summers in Mexico,” Henry said in a release. 5005-5007 S. Kingshighway Blvd., Southampton, St. Louis, Missouri, instagram.com/el_molino_stl

Anita Café and Bar

Gotham & Eggs

At Anita Café and Bar in Midtown, the menu’s vibrant food and beverage offerings mirror the lush, elegant interior. The casual café opened in June 2023 and features a modern Mediterranean menu with Middle Eastern tones inspired by owner Anita Abdul-Karim’s Lebanese heritage. For Abdul-Karim, the café’s golden cup and heart-shaped logo represent sobhiye, a Middle Eastern tradition with which she grew up and recalls fondly. “Sobhiye is a morning ritual when we have coffee together before we go about our day,” she says. “The mission of the café is to empower and uplift everyone that comes through our door with great energy, great food and great drinks.”

Even the menu at Gotham & Eggs is whimsical: It comes to your table as a full-color, pop art-style comic book filled with superhero references and unique takes on classic diner favorites. The Robin’s Nest, for instance, is a nest of crispy waffle fries topped with two eggs smothered in smoked turkey sausage, red pepper, onion and white gravy. Co-owners Jason and Shanisah (Shani) Knight came up with the idea to open the Batman-inspired diner, which features a massive collection of comic book memorabilia inside. “[Jason] says he’s not just a fan – it’s a lifestyle,” Shani explains with a laugh, adding that the majority of the items on display throughout the restaurant come from their home collection.

2700 Locust St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri,

3139 S. Grand Blvd., Tower Grove South,

314-669-7700, anitacafeandbar.square.site

St. Louis, Missouri, gothamandeggs.com

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

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SATURDAY OPEN LATE Late Nite Menu, 10 pm – 1 am SUNDAY BRUNCH IN BRENTWOOD Mexican breakfast burritos, Huevos Rancheros, mimosas, and more! 11am-3 pm

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

DINE

FEAST FAVES

Benton Park

BUCKET LIST

Written by Emily Standlee Photos by Christina Kling Garrett

IT’S HARD TO BEAT THE VARIETY OF BENTON PARK, A DINING AND DRINKING DESTINATION THAT’S ANYTHING BUT CONVENTIONAL.

SHAMELESS GROUNDS Located on a cute corner across from Cherokee Park, Shameless Grounds is a library, coffee shop, café and “radically inclusive” safe space all rolled up into one brick and mortar. The shop stocks housemade syrups in flavors like basil, clove, ginger and spearmint, plus others like caramel apple and white chocolate. It also serves a diverse menu loaded with breakfast bowls, salads and tasty sandwiches like the Farmer’s Daughter (grilled mushrooms, peppers, red onion, spinach, tomato, spicy vegan mayo on grilled multigrain bread). Pair your meal with a cocktail or coffee and take it out back to the shaded patio. The lending library inside the shop is open to guests 18 years and older. 1901 Withnell Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-449-1240, shamelessgrounds.com

SIDNEY STREET CAFÉ Of the many fine-dining establishments in St. Louis, Sidney Street Café shines on its own. Current chef-owner Kevin Nashan took over in 2003 and has since become a James Beard Awards winner and cooked for none other than former President Barack Obama. Nashan’s classic French training, time spent cooking in Spain and the flavors of New Mexico – where he spent his childhood – all come through in his food, resulting in something totally new and ubiquitously St. Louis. A few highlights from Sidney Street’s rotating menu are the beef tartare; the smoked duck with seasonal vegetables; and the à la carte halibut. The restaurant’s exposed brick walls and antique lamps and bar are what you expect and wish for in a space this sophisticated. 2000 Sidney St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-771-5777, sidneystreetcafestl.com

SMALL CHANGE STL There’s so much to love about Small Change STL: It’s dogfriendly, its street-side patio is a neighborhood gathering spot and its bartenders aren’t afraid to get experimental with drinks. It’s also the self-proclaimed “dive bar chic stepchild of the award-winning Planter’s House,” another St. Louis institution known for its wildly inventive cocktails. And Small Change is no different; this is the type of place to grab a beer and a shot – such as the “Little Drop of Poison,” made with one half rotating Amaro and one half spirit of your choice – or a local classic like the Origin Mule (1220 Origin Gin, Small Change Lime Cordial, double ginger syrup, seltzer, bitters). 2800 Indiana Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, smallchangestl.com

STATION NO. 3

Photo by Mabel Suen

If you’re familiar with Frida’s and Diego’s in University City – both co-owned by Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff – you’ll be pleased to know they’ve also opened a vegan and flexitarian restaurant in Benton Park. Station No. 3’s flavors take vegan nods from Frida’s and a bit of Latin American spice from Diego’s, but the restaurant isn’t a carbon copy of these establishments. The staff at Station No. 3 makes many of its plant-based meats and treats in-house, like the brisket sandwich with housemade seitan, smoked provolone, grilled onion, tomato and horseradish aïoli. The point is for everyone, regardless of their diet, to be able to sit down and enjoy a meal together. The restaurant space occupies an old filling station with large garage doors that stay open when the weather is nice.

VENICE CAFÉ No proper Benton Park guide would be complete without mention of Venice Café, which isn’t really a café at all. It’s a funky, cash-only neighborhood watering hole that is more like a living, breathing piece of art. Along with the late artist Paul Cuba, Venice Café owner Jeff Lockheed bought the building on Pestalozzi Street – a house at the time – and eventually turned it into a mosaic-laden wonderland, complete with colorful gardens, hundreds of decorative hanging lamps and even a fish tank. For the drinks, Venice keeps it simple. The mixed cocktails come in 16-ounce plastic cups for $9 each. And if your surroundings weren’t already cool enough, the bar also has live music almost every night. If you’re in the area, you won’t have to look far to find the party. 1903 Pestalozzi St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-772-5994, thevenicecafe.com

Scan the code to look through our full guide to Benton Park.

1956 Utah St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314-925-8883, station3stl.com

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

DINE

RECIPES

A Bite of

Nostalgia Nostalgia is an unexpected ingredient in these pastry chefs’ desserts. Written by Charlotte Renner | Photos by Jennifer Silverberg

piece of chocolate cake with fudgy chocolate frosting takes Sado pastry chef Sarah Osborn back in time, every time. “It’s what I had almost every year for my birthday, and my mom always makes it,” Osborn says. “It’s something special. … Anytime I see a delightful slice of chocolate cake [on the menu], I’m in. That’s core memory stuff right there.” Even if you lack a sweet tooth, per se, everyone has that one sweet treat that stirs up memories of days gone by. Maybe it’s a swig of grape soda, a taste of an ice cream sandwich or even a nibble of a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Osborn is one of many local chefs who infuse their culinary creations with nostalgic

flavors to give guests something more meaningful when they order dessert. “I think that when you’re experiencing dessert – of course there are so many that are just delicious – but when it taps into something deeper, I think it elevates the experience that you’re having,” Osborn says. “I feel like so many people have childhood memories associated with flavors.” Chefs often use nostalgic flavors in unexpected ways; it’s usually the base layer in a more complex dish. One of Osborn’s recent desserts for Sado was an almond cake that features plum, cherry, peach,

black raspberry and yuzu. Its flavor profile unexpectedly harkens back to a classic lunch sandwich. “It gives you a little peanut-butter-andjelly idea,” Osborn says, “but adding that yuzu in there [adds] this burst that’s bright and delicious. Everything melds together really nicely.” Proper Brands’ director of culinary Dave Owens uses the same philosophy when developing edibles for Honeybee Edibles. Some of his edible gummy flavors include grape soda, peaches and cream and cherry cola – all straight out of an old-time candy store. Honeybee Edibles also offers cannabis-infused chocolate bars ranging in flavor from strawberry crunch (white chocolate, strawberry and crispy puff ruff) to the ever-successful chocolate brownie batter, which Owens says tastes just like licking brownie batter from a mixing bowl. Owens credits the nostalgic flavors’ successes to people longing for simpler times. “I think it all goes back to when people think about their childhood and they’re nostalgic for when things weren’t so hectic or stressful,” Owens says. “There wasn’t a pandemic going on. Times were good, and they think about the flavors that maybe they had when they went to the five-and-dime and bought some candy of some sort.” A dessert on the menu at Pennydrop Bar + Kitchen also evokes the taste of five-and-dime store candy. The bourbon Bundt cake, topped with crackly spun sugar and surrounded by a sea of melty peanut butter ice cream, tastes delightfully similar to a Butterfinger. “The chunky peanut butter used as the ice cream base definitely gave it that nutty, Butterfinger taste,” Antoine Bailey, executive chef at Pennydrop, says.

Get the Cranberry Orange Pop Tartlets recipe here.

The Bundt cake came from a place of nostalgia for Bailey himself; although the Butterfinger result was a “happy accident,” he says putting the recipe together reminds him of enjoying after-dinner desserts with his grandma during the holidays. “Everyone’s personal palate is shaped by happy memories, sad moments and joyful moments – all desserts have a story to tell,” Bailey says. “Every dish I make is rooted in what I have been through, and the flavors evoke distinct memories from my past experiences.” On the next few pages, find dessert recipes utilizing nostalgic flavors created by Feast’s recipe developers. As you flip through their takes on Andes mint bars, caramel corn and yes, more peanut butter and jelly, we invite you to think back to the desserts that evoke the most nostalgia for you. WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

DINE

RECIPES

PEANUT BUTTER AND JELLY BARS Recipe by Shannon Weber

SERVES ] 12 to 16

This recipe takes the classic childhood combo of PB&J and milk and transforms it into a party-appropriate dessert that everyone will love. White miso gives the base a little complexity; use a high quality jam so the fruit flavor comes through.

remain, scraping down sides as needed. Divide dough into two equal parts (about 400 grams each). Use a rubber spatula to gently spread one half of the dough evenly in the prepared pan. In a separate bowl, whisk jam until smooth; pour over top of batter and gently spread into an even layer, leaving ¼-inch

1½

cups unbleached all-purpose ﬂour

border around the edge. Use your hands to portion remaining batter

tsp baking powder

– a tablespoon at a time – and flatten slightly and lay it over top of

cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature

jam, leaving a little space between pieces so jam peeks through.

cup brown sugar, ﬁrmly packed

large egg

Scatter with cocktail peanuts and bake for 30 to 35 minutes until golden on top; transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

1½

tsp pure vanilla extract

cup smooth peanut butter

perimeter, loosening any jam from sides as you go. Carefully release

cup shiro (white) miso paste

Springform pan sides and remove. Slice and serve with ice cream.

cup raspberry or cherry jam

⅓

cup cocktail peanuts, chopped sweet cream or vanilla bean ice cream, for serving

[ preparation ] Preheat oven to 350°F and butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch Springform cake pan. Whisk flour and baking powder together in a medium mixing bowl; set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat butter and brown sugar together until fluffy and combined, 4 to 5 minutes. Add egg and vanilla; beat until incorporated. Scrape down sides of bowl, add peanut butter and miso paste, then beat again, 30 seconds; scrape down sides and bottom of bowl, then beat for another 30 seconds. Add flour mixture, and stir on low until just combined and no dry patches

[ to serve ] Once cooled, slide a thin paring knife around the

SWEET AND SPICY ROSEMARY CARAMEL CORN Recipe by Shannon Weber

SERVES ] 8 to 10

Think of this as an adult version of your favorite childhood caramel corn. The cloying sweetness is tempered by a hit of cayenne and a little rosemary for depth. Use your favorite popcorn here; I like Lesser Evil original Himalayan sea salt as the base in this recipe.

[ preparation ] Preheat oven to 250˚F. Line two lipped half-sheet pans with parchment paper. Fill a large soup pot (at least 6 quarts) with popcorn. Set aside. In a small bowl, add baking soda, cayenne pepper, salt and rosemary; stir to combine. Set aside. Add butter, brown sugar and corn syrup to a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan and

cups lightly salted air-popped popcorn

cook over medium-high heat until butter has melted. Stir until sugar has dissolved

tsp baking soda

and mixture is smooth. Continue to heat, stirring occasionally, until bubbles begin

tsp ground cayenne pepper

to form; stop stirring and let bubble undisturbed for 4 to 5 minutes until candy

1 2-14

1 1½

tsp kosher salt Tbsp fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped

thermometer registers 275˚F (soft crack stage). Remove saucepan from heat, and add baking soda mixture. Mixture will bubble

stick unsalted butter, in pieces

cup brown sugar

over popcorn, add cashews, and use a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to stir

cup light corn syrup

until popcorn is evenly coated. Divide onto two prepared sheet pans and bake in

cup cashews, roughly chopped

the oven for 1 hour, stirring every 15 minutes to break up any clusters. Remove and

up; whisk rapidly until everything is combined. Working quickly, pour caramel

allow to cool completely on baking sheets.

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

DINE

RECIPES

CHOCOLATE-MINT MOUSSE PARFAITS Recipe by Teresa Floyd

SERVES ] 6 parfaits

Delight in velvety chocolate mousse delicately infused with cool mint for an elegant dessert that pays homage to the iconic Andes mint candies. This sophisticated twist is as light and airy as it is indulgent.

CHOCOLATE-MINT MOUSSE 4

large eggs

cup sugar

cup (6 oz) semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped

Tbsp Dutch-processed cocoa powder, sifted

tsp pure peppermint extract

tsp kosher salt

Tbsp unsalted butter, room temperature

cup heavy cream

CHOCOLATE CRUMBLE VANILLA WHIPPED CREAM

⅓

cup all-purpose flour

tsp cornstarch

cup heavy cream

cup sugar

tsp sugar

⅓

cup Dutch-process cocoa powder, sifted

tsp vanilla extract or ¼ vanilla bean,

tsp kosher salt

Tbsp unsalted butter, melted

split and seeds scraped

[ preparation - chocolate crumble ] Preheat oven to 300˚F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. In a bowl, combine all the ingredients except the butter. Add the butter, then mix until crumbs form. Spread crumbs onto the prepared baking sheet into a single layer. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove from oven and set on a rack to cool completely.

[ preparation - mousse ] In a heatproof bowl set over a pot with 1 inch of simmering water, whisk together the eggs and sugar until doubled in volume and temperature reaches 160˚F on a kitchen thermometer, about 5 to 6 minutes; whisk constantly to prevent curdling or burning. Remove bowl from the pot, and whisk in chocolate, cocoa powder, peppermint and salt. Stir in the butter until melted. Set aside to cool slightly. Meanwhile, using a hand-held mixer, whip the cream to soft peaks. Gently stir ⅓ of the whipped cream into the chocolate mixture until mostly combined, then fold in the remaining whipped cream until no white streaks remain (be careful not to over-mix or the mousse will not be as light and airy). Evenly portion the mousse into six 8-ounce glasses only halfway full; sprinkle a spoonful of chocolate crumbs into each glass. Top with the remaining mousse, and refrigerate until set, 1 hour up to overnight. When ready to serve, prepare the vanilla whipped cream by beating together the cream, sugar and vanilla in a bowl until medium-stiff peaks form. Generously top each glass with a large dollop and more chocolate crumbles.

RICCIARELLI GRANITA Recipe by Shannon Weber

SERVES ] 6 to 8

This lemon almond granita mimics the flavor of ricciarelli, a chewy, classic Italian almond cookie with a burst of lemon. Although often used in summer for lemonade, citrus is at its peak in winter. It’s sweeter, juicier and ready to be deployed into your favorite sweets. Granitas are best when served just after everything comes together or a few hours later, so prepare it in the afternoon for an evening meal. If you must, it will hold overnight: Cover it tightly and fluff the mixture with a fork just before serving.

3 1½

cups water cups granulated sugar

zest

of 4 medium lemons, peeled with a vegetable peeler in strips

1¼

cups fresh lemon juice, strained, from 8 to 10 medium lemons

½-¾

tsp pure almond extract lemon slices, paper thin, for serving

[ preparation ] Whisk together water, sugar and lemon zest in a medium saucepan. Heat over medium heat, stirring until sugar has completely dissolved and mixture begins to simmer. Let simmer 4 to 5 minutes; remove from heat. Pour through a mesh strainer to remove solids, and let cool to room temperature. Stir in lemon juice and almond extract, if using; pour mixture into a metal loaf pan or cake pan and transfer mixture to freezer. Let chill for 1 to 1½ hours, then use a fork to scrape sides, incorporate frozen pieces into mixture and break up any larger ice chunks. Place back

Granitas make ideal palate cleansers for winter meals; if you’re heading in that direction, simply leave out the almond extract and you’ll have a tart, refreshing break from all that holiday luxury.

in freezer, and check every 30 minutes, repeating the stirring process until mixture is the consistency of icy snow, about 4 hours. [ to serve ] Remove from freezer, and break up with fork until fluffy. Scoop with large spoon or ice cream scoop into coupe or rocks glasses. Garnish with lemon slices and serve immediately.

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

DINE RECIPES DISCOVER CRASH COURSE

Written and photographed by Emily Standlee | Illustrations by Nermina Ferkic

What’s sweet, spicy or savory and tiny? Microgreens! Perhaps you’ve discovered their various textures and types (cantaloupe, radish, cabbage and more) while wandering through a metro-area farmers market. But if you’ve yet to try these nutrient-dense plant babies, we have all the tips you need to make the right purchase for your palate.

What are microgreens, and how do I use them?

Simple Bee to m

accord in City Fa g r

NUTR I

N LEVEL: TIO

Ann’s Roots sells 20 different types of microgreens along with edible flowers. “These include broccoli, kale, cabbage and multiple types of radishes,” Tuckson says. “We’re known for being ‘the home of the cantaloupe microgreens.’” Shop online at annsroots.com – you can even choose to have your choice of four microgreens delivered to your house on a weekly or Red Amaranth biweekly basis. These are locally grown, non-GMO and pesticide free.

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Nutrient-dense and delicious, microgreens are the perfect addition to your salads, sandwiches and soups.

Broccoli, cabbage and radish microgreens are high in calcium (good for bones and teeth); iron (good for energy levels and the normal formation of red blood cells); potassium (good for muscle contraction, normal blood pressure and moving nutrients into cells); magnesium (good for blood sugar maintenance and nerve function); and other minerals.

stage (about a month after germination), right before their true leaves develop. According to a 2017 U.S. Department of Agriculture study, microgreens can contain about five times more nutrients than their mature counterparts. Cabbage greens, for example, are rich in antioxidants, potassium, iron and fiber. Put that in your salad and eat it. Microgreens have about as many culinary uses as they do varieties. Sprinkle sunflower microgreens on toast with avocado, flaky salt and edible flowers; add sweet pea shoots to your smoothie for a protein boost;

Find Bee Simple at Local Harvest, City Greens, Fields Foods, Fresh Thyme at The Foundry and online at beesimplecityfarm.com. Follow the business on Instagram at @bee_simple, and check out its edible flowers, honey, soaps, lotions, balms and oils as well.

toss daikon radish microgreens Edible Flowers

into your salad for a spicy kick;

Big River Greens

or top your soup with broccoli

Dane Stahl and Paige Pedersen, founders of Big River Greens, were feeling the stress of working full-time jobs and wanted to express their creativity. “We started dreaming about a side hustle that could turn into something financially sustainable, and Paige started checking out videos on YouTube about growing microgreens,” Stahl says. “The initial investment to get started was within our budget, and the time required to grow and maintain the greens fits into our lifestyles. It aligns with our passions for growing and eating good food.”

microgreens, which are rich in vitamins A, B, C and E.

Ann’s Roots For Melandie Tuckson of Ann’s Roots, growing microgreens was the result of wanting to understand their health benefits. “My husband and I started growing indoors [using an aquaponics system] during the pandemic,” Tuckson says. At the same time, Tuckson’s husband’s aunt was suffering from cancer; she passed away in 2020. “After her passing, we made it a mission to find ways to heal the body with fresh foods. After learning more about microgreens, their benefits and the growing process, we introduced them to family during our cookouts and decided to start our business.”

Follow Big River Greens on Instagram at @bigrivergreens to see where it’s popping up each season and where you can pick up the goods or have them delivered. Additionally, find them online at bigrivergreens.com.

FLAV

Bee Simple City Farm began in 2014 as a partnership between Mary Densmore and James Meinert, who started farming with New Roots Urban Farm in 2009. “I decided to start growing microgreens after many years of growing organic vegetables,” Densmore says. “I turned to microgreens [because] I didn't need much land to grow a lot of greens. Once I started growing them, I learned of all the incredible health benefits they have and really enjoyed eating them myself.”

inch or two tall and are clipped at the seedling

EV E : RL L to irect D

accord in Scienc g e

Bee Simple City Farm

early, these little leaves only grow to be an

H HIG

plant they would become if not harvested

Intensely flavored and reminiscent of the

Daikon Radish – perhaps spicier than a normal radish; large in flavor and size

Kohlrabi – known as a turnip cabbage; mild, nutty and pink

Pea – sweet and earthy; dense in folic acid, vitamins A and C and protein

Red Cabbage – dark in color; bold and earthy

Sunflower – nutty and crunchy; similar flavor profile to a sunflower seed

Want to grow your own microgreens at home this winter? Scan to read our online guide.

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

BLEED

s a Se thye Da

PROMOTION

thi

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TRI 28

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

BLEED

BLEED AT DIERBERGS, WE BELIEVE THE ONLY WAY TO GET SEAFOOD FRESHER IS IF YOU CAUGHT IT YOURSELF. Our mission is to provide the freshest selection of sustainable and ethically harvested seafood, with the best service in town. There are a million ways to enjoy seafood, but where to begin? Start your voyage at Dierbergs!

Our commitment to sustainability is at the heart of our seafood department. We work hard to ensure our seafood is sustainably sourced and ethically harvested, meaning all of our suppliers and partners always follow local fishing laws and requirements, protect the environment, and disrupt the natural ecosystem as little as possible.

SELECTION From shellfish to wild caught, we source only the freshest fish from the best locations around the world, letting the seasons dictate which fish we have in store. Not just your typical varieties, either! We regularly introduce fresh seafood selections, making it easy to explore new flavors and broaden your seafood palate.

Buying and cooking seafood at home can be intimidating, no matter if you’re new or nuanced. At Dierbergs, we go above and beyond to ensure your seafood experience is second to none. Our seafood teams are experts, available to guide you through our selection and offer personalized recommendations.

DIERBERGS WILL COOK YOUR SEAFOOD FOR FREE WHILE YOU SHOP! Just choose your preferred seasoning and cooking method, and your dinner will be ready before you check out!

Pomegranate Salmon Recipe by Christina Musgrave, @tasting.with.tina

PREP TIME COOK TIME

5 minutes 20 minutes

TOTAL TIME 25 minutes MAKES 4 SERVINGS

INSTRUCTIONS

INGREDIENTS

Pat salmon portions dry. Season with salt & pepper.

•

4 Dierbergs Atlantic Salmon Portions

Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add salmon,

•

1 tsp salt

flesh side down, & cook for 4 mins. Flip salmon & cook for an

•

1 tsp black pepper

additional 4 mins.

•

2 tbsp olive oil

•

1/2 cup pomegranate juice

•

1/4 cup Essential Everyday Chicken Stock

Remove salmon from pan and set aside. Add pomegranate juice, Essential Everyday Chicken Stock, & red wine. Deglaze pan & bring to a simmer. Simmer for

•

1/4 cup red wine

•

2 cloves garlic, minced

•

2 tbsp Essential Everyday Unsalted Butter

•

Pomegranate seeds, for serving

& Italian parsley. Serve with Dierbergs Kitchen Fresh & Crisp

•

Italian parsley, for serving

Seasoned Green Beans and Mashed Potatoes.

10 minutes, until thickened. Add garlic & simmer for 2 minutes, until fragrant. Add butter & stir. Spoon sauce over salmon fillets. Top with pomegranate seeds

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

BLEED

SERVICE

RIM

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QUALITY

DISCOVER FAT-WASHED COCKTAILS

Holiday Spirits Written by Shannon Weber | Photo by Jennifer Silverberg

at-washing spirits has been on the rise since the mid-2000s when bartenders and distilleries began experimenting with the technique. It functions similarly to a standard infusion. A liquid fat is added to room-

temperature alcohol; the mixture steeps for several hours and is then chilled to allow the fat to solidify, making the remaining liquid easy to strain. The result? A nuanced version of the base spirit with added flavor, texture and depth. “Fat-washing creates a unique texture on your palate,” Charlie Martin, bar program manager at Bellerive Country Club, says. “It amplifies the body of a spirt very well, making it velvety and smooth. Fat-washing also dulls the sharpness and astringency due to the introduction of oils into the spirit. These oils coat your palate, giving you a deeper flavor experience.” What’s at work here is sturdy, old-fashioned science. Alcohol is a

Level up your holiday cocktail game with a bar menu rarity: fat-washed cocktails

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

compound that can dissolve both water-soluble and fat-soluble flavors, which means it’s just as easy to infuse the flavor of browned butter, olive oil or peanut butter into spirits as it is to infuse it with herbs, vanilla or chiles. Even after freezing, some of those fat molecules remain in the liquid, rounding out

its sharper edges and adding a voluptuousness that wasn’t

going for something like browned

there prior.

butter, cook until ready and keep it in

Know yo Ratios

liquid form.

All fats are not created equal;

Fat-washing at Home

3. Add warmed fat to your spirit using

some have delicate flavor, while

The best thing about fat-washing is that it requires no special

the ratios listed to the right.

others come on strong. For fats

equipment, and it’s easy to do at home. All you need are a few

4. Leave out at room temperature to infuse

with more of a background

sealable glass jars and some cheesecloth. If you’re new to fat-

for one to three hours total.

flavor (like the ones below),

washing, start with some go-to ﬂavor pairings the pros use when

5. Seal containers tightly; transfer to

use a 2:7 ratio of fat to alcohol.

they want to amp up their cocktails, which yield a ﬂexible result

freezer for at least six hours or overnight

If you experiment with more

that’s easy to deploy in classic drinks. “A fat-washed Old Fashioned

to allow fat to solidify and rise to the top

pronounced flavors, like

with brown-butter bourbon is pretty amazing,” Martin says. “Dirty

of the mixture.

Martinis are fantastic with either gin or vodka washed with olive

6. Using gloves, remove larger chunks by

oil, and avocado oil-washed tequila is ideal for Margaritas.” For

hand; strain mixture through cheesecloth.

the adventurous set, he notes, there are more offbeat options like

Discard fat.

sesame oil, duck fat, blue cheese and mortadella.

7. Bottle strained spirit and store.

Fat-washing 101

Fat-Washing in the Wild

To begin, Martin says to start with these basic instructions and

If you want to see how the pros do it, bar programs all over the

then adjust as you practice to customize it to suit your own tastes.

area use fat-washing to build cocktails throughout the year.

bacon fat or blue cheese, start with a 1:7 ratio to keep it from overwhelming the final product.

Menus tend to rotate seasonally, but you’re likely to ﬁnd a 1. Pour your room-temperature spirit of choice into a glass jar.

fat-washed cocktail or two at Sado, Playtpus, The Lucky

2. Prepare your fat. If it’s solid, warm it to a liquid. If you’re

Accomplice, Press, Lazy Tiger and New Society.

P fect Pairings Brown Butter + Bourbon Coconut Oil + Rum Olive Oil + Vodka or Gin Avocado Oil + Tequila

Scan the code to see mixologist Jiana West’s recipe for a brown butter bourbon-based fat-washed cocktail.

Written by Shannon Weber | Photos by Christina Kling-Garrett | Illustrations by Nermina Ferkic

WINTER MORNINGS ARE MADE FOR VISITING SOME OF THE CITY’S FINEST DOUGHNUT SHOPS

trip to the doughnut shop is a treat, but a doughnut crawl is an absolute indulgence. Make the most of lazy winter weekends by hopping in the car with your favorite people and hitting the road to explore St. Louis’ world

of glazed delights. Here, we’ll highlight some of the best doughnut spots all over town within a few minutes of each other; the whole drive takes less than an hour.

Start off big at Vincent Van Doughnut, where its sky-high, yeast-raised creations will transfix you. It’s hard to choose, but we love the New York cheesecake doughnut or the chocolate doughnut with coffee. Always get a seasonal option, and throw a cake doughnut in the box for later. Our personal favorite? The caramel and toasted coconut doughnut. The shop makes a glutenfree option every Friday and offers a selection of vegan doughnuts throughout the week. 1072 Tower Grove Ave., The Grove, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-339-5440, vincentvandoughnut.com

St. Louis Hills Donut Shop, mere minutes away from Vincent Van Doughnut, is filled to the brim with classics for which you’ll never grow tired. The cash-only spot has dedicated fans, so consider this your chance to see why people sing its praises. The shop has it all: cinnamon twists, Long Johns, glazed, filled and doughnut holes, if you’re looking for a road snack. Whatever you choose, add a cheese puff to the mix; the Danish-doughnut specialty is a must-try. 6917 Hampton Ave., St. Louis Hills, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-833-3348, facebook.com/StLouisHillsDonutShop

Even though the shop acquired new owners in recent years, they’ve worked hard to ensure everything stays exactly as it always has been at Donut DriveIn on Chippewa Street. This includes the doughnut bakers and finishers, many of whom have worked there for decades. We asked the owners – who grew up visiting the shop – what their favorite options were, and they recommended the vanilla Long John, the Bismarck (a chocolate-iced and custard-filled raised doughnut) and the warm cinnamon twist. 6525 Chippewa St., Lindenwood Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-645-7714, donutdrivein.com

Strange Donuts is a St. Louis icon by now, thanks to a constant rotation of limited-time “strangers” and monthly creations. This crawl takes you to the Maplewood location, where we suggest picking up whatever the weekly stranger is and anything else that tickles your fancy. Fan favorites include gooey butter, PB&J and maple bacon. You can’t go wrong with the classics like the cinnamon sugar cake or the rainbow pony, either. 2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314-932-5851, strangedonuts.com

Your final destination? Pharaoh’s Donuts in the Central West End, home to the single best glazed doughnut in the city. Don’t believe us? Try it for yourself, along with old-school buttermilk cake doughnuts, twists, fruit- or custard-filled rounds and more. There are no wrong choices here, so pick what’s calling to you. Now that you’re here, stay awhile: We’ve landed you in one of the most walkable neighborhoods in the city. If it’s warm enough, take a stroll around the shops of Maryland Plaza, hop in the car for a jaunt through Forest Park or head over to Quarrelsome Coffee to warm up with a pour-over coffee, espresso drink or tea. 8 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-296-3620, pharaohsdonuts.com

Hungry for more culinary crawls? Scan the code to explore our bakery crawl.

COMMUNITY

GIVE BACK

Support these 5 locally based food nonprofits this holiday season Written by Aurora Blanchard | Photos supplied

uring the winter season, many nonprofits around St. Louis could benefit from the gracious spirit of giving back. These five food-focused organizations

provide nourishment to St. Louisans who need it most; here’s how you can help them fulfill their missions. Learn more about local food nonprofits at feastmagazine.com/community/non-profits.

Urban Harvest STL What started as a downtown community garden in 2011 has grown into a five-farm produce-distribution hub and early childhood garden education nonprofit. Urban Harvest STL just earned a U.S. Department of Agriculture grant to open a demonstration garden in Midtown on Grandel Square, one block from the symphony. It’s currently running an end-of-the-year campaign to collect donations for the new garden. “We’re hoping to make that connection between art and agriculture,” executive director Katie Houck says. “Bringing that space to life will be exciting and something we hope to do over the next year.” urbanharveststl.org

One Africa! One Nation! Farmers Market One Africa! One Nation! Farmers Market creates space for Black farmers and artisans at its O’Fallon Park market during the growing season. “We want to end food apartheid by bringing Black farmers and Black entrepreneurs into the market, circulating dollars within our community to help build this community,” market manager Rage Gray says. “I love doing this work. I believe ending food apartheid is incredibly necessary for Black people to be free and self-determined.” OAON also educates youth and holds a produce giveaway in the Gary Brooks Black Power Community Garden. Last year, it donated more than 1,000 pounds of produce. This winter, the market will work with its parent nonprofit African People’s Education and Defense Fund, to raise funds and volunteers for the Uhuru Wa Kulea Women’s Health Center. oneafricamarket.com

Food Outreach Founded in 1988, Food Outreach provides low-income Missouri residents who qualify for the program with Medically Tailored Meals and groceries for pick-up or delivery. “Since the pandemic, we’ve built up our delivery program tenfold,” Justin Kralemann, senior director of development and strategic initiatives, says. “We serve 450 clients per month on home delivery and will probably reach 500 this year.” Food Outreach provides services to anyone who qualifies, regardless of healthcare system and serves individuals living with HIV or cancer. The organization buys all its own food, so monetary donations and volunteer hours are welcome during the holiday season. Last year, 1,250 volunteers donated more than 17,000 hours of their time to Food Outreach. foodoutreach.org

Operation Food Search Among many other hunger-relief efforts, Operation Food Search gives children backpacks containing meals and snacks for evenings and weekends outside of school meals, which would otherwise be their only source of daily nutrition. “Something that inspires me is the amount of concern and activism among chefs and restaurants,” Jocelyn Fundoukos, OFS director of communications, says. “Gerard Craft came in and did a virtual cooking class as an event for us to raise money, and it was really popular. Some of my friends still pick up some of those ingredients and make what they learned from that cooking lesson.” Right now, OFS is looking for financial donations and volunteers to hold food drives or pack meal kits. operationfoodsearch.org

A Red Circle Erica Williams founded A Red Circle in 2017 to increase food access and community development in North County with a racial equity lens. In the face of area grocery stores shuttering, A Red Circle spearheaded the affordable Healthy Community Farmers Market in Riverview. “A neighborhood could crumble in one generation, but it can take multiple generations to fix,” Williams says. The best way to support A Red Circle this winter is by donating money to its new farm-to-table grocery store called People’s Harvest, which is being developed in North County with plans to open in 2025. aredcircle.org

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

COMMUNITY

Food

Studies

A new dining program at WashU may serve as the most accessible path to connecting the hallowed university to St. Louis at large. Written by Shannon Weber | Photos by Judd Demaline

S 36

tep onto the campus of Washington

The 2023 fall semester saw the opening of five

University in St. Louis this fall, and

local restaurants that dot the landscape of the

you’ll likely notice some changes –

campus, spread out strategically so students have

that is, if you’ve been on campus

access to food no matter where their classes are

before. Although WashU is an alma mater to some

concentrated. Prior to this year, these locations

and is situated in the heart of the central corridor,

were populated by traditional food service options

surrounded by notable St. Louis attractions,

you’re likely to find on many university campuses

the university has always stood slightly apart

throughout the United States. The departure of

from the surrounding community. However, the

the food service company the campus had been

campus’ new dining program may finally serve

utilizing gave WashU an opportunity to rethink the

as the most accessible path to connecting the

dining program at every level and transform it into

hallowed university to St. Louis at large.

something that was more than the sum of its parts.

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

It began, appropriately, with a test case. Andrew J. Watling, director for dining services at WashU, first met Patrick Clapp of Coffeestamp at an

Cof feestamp

on-campus event celebrating National Hispanic Heritage Month, and the two hit it off. Watling was interested in setting up a Coffeestamp location in Hillman Hall, which was already outfitted with equipment that could be customized for Clapp’s needs. Clapp agreed, and the location has been a runaway hit since opening. Coffeestamp celebrated its one-year anniversary this past summer with a new paint job and high hopes for its new neighbors moving onto campus. “It’s been amazing,” Clapp says. “It’s been challenging and hard at times, but overall a great experience, and I’d say it’s been one of the best opportunities of my life. The community, the people and the atmosphere are so unique, and seeing the students and staff enjoying our coffee and food has been so motivating.” He adds that the best part about the new restaurants opening on campus is the diversity and opportunity that comes with them. “The flavors are so diverse! It’s an amazing selection of fantastic food, all within

BEAST Craf t B BQ

The Fattened Caf

Collins Farms

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

walking distance from each other, and it’s wonderful to see other small businesses thriving on campus.” This year, in addition to Coffeestamp and a wide variety of allergy- and halal-friendly meal options throughout campus, students can also get a taste of the St. Louis area thanks to five new restaurants. Each was selected for the diversity it brings to the grounds: The Fattened Caf inside McKelvey Hall; BEAST Craft BBQ and LaJoy Café in the Schnuck Pavillion; Corner 17 inside the Olen Library; and Collins Farms, located inside the Anheuser-Busch Law Building. Watling, Tiffany de la Roche – assistant director for retail dining – and the WashU dining team worked closely with each local business to ensure that spaces were equipped with everything they needed to turn their campus locations into compact versions of their brick-and-mortar spots – and then some. Efficiencies like ordering stations and paperless menus have streamlined operations even in the busiest moments of the day.

LaJoy Café

Is it the easiest way to execute high-volume food

I think if you

service? No, and it’s taken a considerable amount of work to get to this point. “We serve about 15,000 meals a day on campus, and it takes a lot to do that consistently,” Watling says. “I think if you really challenge people to do things creatively and think about how to do it in the best way possible, it really shows through.” That strategic creativity is everywhere you look, from where restaurants are located to how each restaurant operates within its space. There is a fluidity to the constant motion of the lunch rush that’s hard to comprehend, even as you watch it unfold.

really challenge people to do things creatively and think about how to do it in the best way possible, it really shows through.” – ANDREW J. WATLING

To Watling and the dining team, having an intentional dining program is key to students’ experience during their time at WashU. After just a few short weeks, this has proven true. At The Fattened Caf, co-owner Charlene Lopez-Young has been delighted at how well the restaurant has been received on campus. “We’ve had several students tell us our food reminds them of home or their grandma’s, mom’s or dad’s cooking, and they’ve even thanked us for being there,” she says. “The best thing has been interacting with the students. We absolutely love hearing about their passions and studies.” The opening of familiar local restaurants on campus also sets a definitive “all are welcome” tone for the whole of St. Louis. Watling hopes that adding local favorites on campus gives students familiar destinations throughout the city, but beyond that, he hopes the city can get to know WashU a little better by spending time on campus grabbing a meal among students and staff – an act which could propel the university’s diversity and inclusion initiatives far beyond the grounds. “Dining Services is wholeheartedly dedicated to investing in initiatives that leave an indelible mark on our city, and the presence of local businesses on our campus emphasizes our deliberate efforts to effect positive change,” Watling says. “Our retail dining program serves as a vehicle for realizing our strategic objectives and laying robust foundations for tomorrow. … The partnerships we have been able to begin are a crucial step forward in creating meaningful and impactful change within our region.”

Corner 17

Take a tour of WashU’s new dining options here.

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

Rising Stars Portraits by Jennifer Silverberg

his year’s Rising Stars gained their skills over the years in a variety of ways; some are self-educated,

some went to culinary school and others were mentored by established industry veterans. But they all have one thing in common that can’t be taught: undeniable passion. This drive to create through food and drink makes them stand out in St. Louis’ already impressive food scene. Each person you'll meet over the next few pages is making a mark in their own way, from leading the charge on a hot new bagel spot to taking local cocktail competitions by storm.

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

Bredenkoetter SOUS CHEF, Mainlander Supper Club by Shannon Weber

ax Bredenkoetter was studying accounting at the University of Minnesota when a serious health incident and COVID-19 hit. Left recovering in isolation with a lot of spare time, his sole source of entertainment became a hobby he had in high school – playing around with flavor profiles. When he moved back to St. Louis, he decided to leave the accounting world behind and focus on his true passion for cooking.

Bredenkoetter’s love for food was originally formed by regular childhood visits to Lu Lu Seafood & Dim Sum on Olive Boulevard; a two-week trip to southwest China at 8 years old laid a more concrete foundation. In late 2021, he connected with Blake Askew at a Bulrush staff party. At the time, Askew was embarking on a pop-up series called Mainlander, which was steeped in midcentury culture with an eye on Asian cuisine. Askew hired Bredenkoetter to assist in the kitchen, and in doing so, brought him onto the team of one of the most anticipated restaurants to open in 2023. “I’ve been with him ever since,” Bredenkoetter says. “I don’t know if he realized I hadn’t worked a line in a setting like that, but I guess I did well enough that he’s kept me around.” The pairing stuck. Askew threw the curtains back on Mainlander in July 2023 with Bredenkoetter as one of only five members on the team. “[Askew] has really been the best mentor I could ask for,” Bredenkoetter says. “Before working with him, a lot of my cooking was very freestyle and didn’t have any sort of base. Not only does he help by having so much knowledge, but his professional background brings a lot of structure to what I do and how I learn new techniques and recipes.” The culture at Mainlander is highly collaborative; Askew encourages ideas from his team for future dishes and projects. It’s an ideal situation for Bredenkoetter, who always has a journal of ideas in progress. Bredenkoetter plans to be at Mainlander for the long haul and potentially expand his current hobby – lacto-fermented potato donuts in a variety of meticulous flavor profiles – into something that works for the restaurant. His current focus is on gleaning what he can from Askew to assist him in his own culinary journey. “Blake is very focused on all the fun historical dishes of the midcentury dining scene and supper club culture; I still have quite a bit to learn about midcentury food and techniques.” Mainlander Supper Club, 8 S. Euclid Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, mainlanderstl.com

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM FALL 2023

Scan the code to step inside Mainlander Supper Club in the Central West End.

or nearly 20 years, Saigon Cafe primarily drew in patrons seeking a quick, authentic Vietnamese meal in the Central West End. Guests weren’t coming in for the cocktails, but that all changed with one ambitious mixologist. Enter Eddie Hsia, Saigon Cafe’s bar manager and the mind behind the restaurant’s updated cocktail program and brand refresh.

Hsia – pronounced “Shaw” – is used to restaurant life; he witnessed its ins and outs firsthand as a youth at family-owned establishments in North County. Hsia took a break from the industry early in his adulthood but circled back after meeting Saigon Cafe owner Michael Ly, who assured Hsia that he would have a wealth of creative control should the two choose to work together. After brainstorming how to breathe new life into the well-established brand, they decided to focus on the restaurant’s bar program – or lack thereof. “A lot of Asian restaurants don’t have craft cocktails,” Hsia says. “Typically, people go to Asian restaurants specifically to just have a couple of beers.”

ie Hsia BAR MANAGER & MIXOLOGIST, Saigon Cafe by Rebecca Davis

Harnessing the power of social media, Hsia – who was a novice mixologist at the time – got to work. “I was doing my studying and taught myself,” Hsia says. “From there, I just did my thing, and it’s been a really good success so far.” To play off the flavors of Asian cuisine, Hsia knew he wanted the new cocktail menu to lean on the side of sweetness. “Especially [for] Asian dishes that come with a lot of sodium, [sweet is] a good pairing,” he says. He spent over a year studying and developing drinks that would complement Saigon Cafe’s existing food options. The current drink menu flaunts some iconic concoctions, each elevated with Hsia’s unique flair. The adored espresso Martini gets a flavorful twist with Vietnamese espresso, while the Macadamia Old-Fashioned stands out as a testament to drink craftsmanship. Flavor and presentation go hand in hand for Hsia, who utilizes unique ingredients like dry ice and artfully crafted garnishes to add a visual element to every drink. Hsia’s mission extends far beyond serving drinks to his customers. At Saigon Cafe, he aims to orchestrate a complete transformation of the experience and ambiance, coaxing patrons to linger longer and elevating the entire atmosphere with his repertoire of specialty cocktails. “Once they have the cocktail, it’s almost like a double wow,” Hsia says. “You’re getting crafty cocktails, you’re getting really delicious, flavorful food, and the portion sizes are phenomenal. I think you’re getting everything at once.” Saigon Cafe, 10 Euclid Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-361-8881, saigoncafestl.com

Learn more about Hsia’s vision for Saigon Cafe’s bar program here.

FALL 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

Mad ine Hissong & Gene Bailey CO-OWNERS, Damn Fine Hand Pies by Shannon Weber

he’s worked in every corner of the service industry her whole life, including stints at Yellowstone National Park and Niche Food Group. He hails from a renowned restaurant family and fell in love with hospitality during college in Columbia, Missouri. But Madeline Hissong and Gene Bailey didn’t cross paths until 2017, when Bailey – who had recently been diagnosed with a chronic illness and became sober – started a restaurant consulting company. His first client was John Perkins, then-owner of Juniper, where Hissong was working. “We barely worked together, but I could tell from the first time I met her that she was very special, very talented and connected incredibly well with everyone around her,” Bailey says.

Hissong moved on from Juniper to Knead and became sober herself in 2019, which ushered in a turning point in her career. “I started to think really clearly and deeply about what I wanted my future to look like,” Hissong says. “I was happy for the first time in my adult life. I had a flood of ideas and really profound emotions and realized I felt my best when I was able to combine those two things.” The result of this epiphany was Damn Fine Hand Pies, which quickly became a Tower Grove Farmers' Market favorite for its hand pies, artisan bread and pastries. Scaling up production was a challenge for Hissong, whose stand had gained so much momentum that it was a struggle to keep up. Bailey had talked to Hissong on and off for years about a partnership before making it official this year, and the fruits of their collective labor have been evident all season long. The new preordering system is a game changer, as is the budget created by Bailey that Hissong calls “a masterpiece.” “Gene has the exact same work ethic I do, and he cares so much,” Hissong says. “He understands the language of business, and he can see much further into the future than I can. That foundation means there’s basically nothing we won’t do for each other or Damn Fine.” For Bailey, it’s a dream fulfilled; he’s doing what he loves with someone in whom he has the utmost faith. “I’ve had the privilege to work with so many amazing people over the years, but I just can’t imagine doing this with any other person,” he says. “I had dreams about a bakery, but she had the guts to start a little hand pie stand at Tower Grove.” Now, that dream has become a reality as well; this fall, Hissong and Bailey announced plans to open a brick-and-mortar operation at 4000 Shaw Ave. by spring 2024. As they move forward, the duo are taking steps cautiously and as a team. “We are always working toward that goal,” Hissong says. “It’s a slow process, which is exactly how we want it.” Damn Fine Hand Pies, damnfinehandpies. square.site

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM FALL 2023

Scan the code to read more about how Hissong is bringing sourdough to new heights.

ustin McMillen’s love of cooking hit early; high school culinary classes eventually led him to study at the Culinary Institute of America in New York. Stints at Overlook Farms in Clarksville, Missouri, and St. Louis’ own Sidney Street Café came next. Justin McMillen met his now-wife Amelia McMillen while they were both working in the industry. The two had their sights set on exploring another part of the country, so when the opportunity to be part of the opening team at SingleThread Farms came along, they went for it and helped the team earn three Michelin stars. The three years spent in Healdsburg, California, helped to solidify Justin McMillen’s culinary philosophy. “The years we spent there were definitely some of the most influential to us – not only in style of food, flavors and techniques, but also in our appreciation of hospitality and creating a super thoughtful dining experience,” he says. “Everything at STF had a story. There were layers of inspiration and meaning behind everything from the pottery to the tapestries on the walls to the way we walked through the dining room.”

The duo had plans to explore another city but found themselves pulled back to St. Louis. Justin McMillen took a job at Niche Food Group as culinary director during COVID-19 and eventually landed at Balkan Treat Box in March 2023, while Amelia McMillen worked as a dietitian and ran cottage businesses Rebel Roots Caramel Apples and Homebody Bread & Bakery. This year, the McMillens brought a long-discussed idea to fruition. Inspired by the dinner clubs of Wisconsin and northern Chicago, Elsworth Supper Club is meant to capture the memories Amelia McMillen has of special occasions and vacations spent dining in family-run supper clubs. Although a brick and mortar will come eventually, hosting dinners has been a way to test menu ideas, get creative juices flowing and create relationships through the community. The experience is intimate and warm. Ten guests sit around a communal table in conversation with one another and the hosts while enjoying an evening of thoughtfully executed seasonal fare. Each service harkens back to a Japanese concept of ‘Ichi-go ichi-e’ that ran through the veins of SingleThread Farm. “It essentially means ‘one moment in time which can’t be recreated,’” Justin McMillen says. “That’s exactly what these supper club experiences are intended to be; it’s felt pretty magical so far.” Elsworth Supper Club, instagram.com/elsworth_supper_club

Learn about McMillen’s hand in recipe-developing for Telva at The Ridge here.

McMillen CO-FOUNDER, Elsworth Supper Club by Shannon Weber

A Wichlin FRONT-OF-HOUSE MANAGER & MIXOLOGIST, Retreat Gastropub by Charlotte Renner

t Platypus’ recent series of cocktail competitions, one unlikely champion has repeatedly reigned supreme: Kevin Wichlin. As the newcomer to the group, which includes some of the best brains in the St. Louis bar scene, Wichlin shocked everyone (including himself) when he took home first place at both of the competitions in which he’s partaken so far. “It was the first time I’d ever put myself out there and threw my hat into the ring,” Wichlin says. “It was incredibly validating – a huge confidence booster. Like, hey, maybe this is something I’m good at and I’m not crazy. It’s not just something I do at home.” Wichlin’s mixology journey started with a gifted cocktail shaker set, which he used to make what he calls “a Margarita better than any Margarita I’ve had in a restaurant.” The interest quickly turned into slight obsession as Wichlin built up his bottle collection from three to a staggering 200. He landed a job at Retreat Gastropub as a bartender and was recently promoted to front-of-house manager. He aspires to reach bar coordination and sommelier status. “I want to make sure the drinks are made well and consistently,” Wichlin says. “With wine, I think it makes it so much more interesting when you know what’s in the glass.” Wichlin also believes every cocktail should have a story behind it. For his most recent win at the Japan American Society of St. Louis’ sake cocktail competition, for example, he modeled his drink after a sushi roll. The drink consisted of sake, gin, clarified yuzu juice, seaweed spray and seaweed syrup “to give it a little salt to help balance those flavors,” Wichlin says. “Then I made micro-sphere jelly balls out of mandarin orange juice, so they looked like fish roe. I flipped a little piece of seaweed to the side.” Wichlin’s creative vision doesn’t end there; as Retreat brings back its brunch hours, he’s busy coming up with innovative takes on classic cocktails. Each trip to the farmers market brings new ideas. An abundance of farm-fresh tomatoes, for example, led to Wichlin creating a tomato syrup he’s using to brainstorm drinks like a reverse-Bloody Mary, a fancy Michelada or a tomato Margarita. “It’s really crazy tasting; it’s such a savory thing,” Wichlin says. “Most cocktail ingredients are sweet and fruity and tropical, and then you have this flavor that you’re used to having in pasta.” In the future, Wichlin plans to continue curating drinks that match the moment, whatever it may be. “I think that’s really why I want to go full sommelier or beverage coordinator because people will ask me at Retreat, ‘What’s your favorite cocktail?’ And honestly, I just like whatever pairs with the moment.” Retreat Gastropub, 6 N. Sarah St., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-261-4497, retreatgastropub.com

Find Wichlin’s thoughts on essential home bar ingredients, his controversial drink opinion and more.

s the driving force behind smash success Bagel Union, head baker and general manager Jackie Polcyn plays a pivotal role in crafting some of St. Louis’ most cherished bagels.

After receiving a culinary degree with a focus on baking and pastry arts, Polcyn worked in fast-casual operations for about a decade. In 2016, she started work at Union Loafers – a nationally and regionally acclaimed bakery – as part of the lunch crew. There, she learned how to incorporate extreme attention to detail and an eye for quality into her work. When the Union Loafers management team started talking about opening a bagel shop, Polcyn was excited for the chance to expand her baking knowledge and take on a new challenge. “I am always looking for opportunities to grow,” she says. “I like gaining new knowledge, but also I think that with my past experience and management, it just kind of made sense for me to keep going.”

Polcyn HEAD BAKER & GENERAL MANAGER, Bagel Union by Rebecca Davis

Notoriously hard to perfect and a bit scarce in the area, bagels became Polcyn’s main focus in 2023. She studied under Union Loafers co-owner Ted Wilson and experimented with different batches. Finally, Polcyn achieved the elusive authentic New Yorkstyle bagel that would captivate the taste buds of St. Louis locals. “It’s like anything else – you’re not going to be good at it when you first start,” she says. “So I felt like the first month or two, my bagels were not good-looking. They might have tasted good, but they didn’t look good.” After dialing in on certain techniques, Polcyn’s fluffy, round bagels began to take shape as she developed flavors like cherry crunch, tzitzelnickel and poppy. "I think that was when I started to really be like, 'These are awesome. I'm happy. I'm proud of these,'" she says. Bagel Union opened in February to lines around the block. The bagel shop upped its production team, and Polcyn was able to really start experimenting with the menu. She notes how much her team influences the greatness that comes from the kitchen. “Everybody that works for the company is here to be here. They show up, they’re passionate and they care. There’s not really any kind of secret ingredient. Having a team of people that put a lot of care and effort and time into this is what makes it stand out.”

Bagel Union, 8705 Big Bend Blvd., Webster Groves, Missouri, 314-320-7556, bagel-union.com

Scan the code to see what all the Bagel Union buzz is about in Feast’s Inside Scoop.

FALL 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

P R O M OT I O N

PRESENTED BY

OAT-SO-GOOD: SO MANY REASONS TO OPT FOR OATS S P O N S O R E D C O N T E N T BY K AT H E R I N E L E W I S

INSTANT OATS

OAT GROATS

ROLLED OATS

STEEL-CUT OATS

During manufacturing, the moisture is squeezed from instant oats, then they’re rolled and pressed thin. This makes cooking instant oats a snap — it’s essentially rehydrating them, which only takes a few minutes. The convenience comes at a cost, though, as instant oats are often on the mushy side, and store-bought packs can be loaded with added sugar and artificial flavors.

At the opposite end of the spectrum from instant oats, groats are oats that have barely been processed at all. With groats, only the inedible hull has been removed, leaving the germ, bran and endosperm whole — and all the fiber, protein, iron and copper they contain. Groats have a nutty taste and digest slowly, so they’re an excellent choice for anyone on a lowglycemic-index diet. They also take the longest to cook, so it’s a good idea to let them soak overnight first.

Those oats snuggled up next to fruit and yogurt in oh-so-photogenic social media posts? They’re likely rolled oats, prepared by steaming whole oat grains, which are then flattened with a roller and dried. Also known as old-fashioned oats, rolled oats are a quick-cooking option that are most commonly used in baked goods and granola bars because they retain their texture and have a mild taste. They’re also the go-to choice for overnight oats. Oats can help lower cholesterol and they’re filling, so eating them for breakfast may help reduce calorie intake later in the day.

Rather than being steamed and flattened like rolled oats, steel-cut (or Irish) oats are whole oat grains that have been roughly chopped — looks-wise, they’re often compared to grains of rice that have been cut in half. Steel-cut oats are bigger than other kinds of oats and don’t soak up as much water, so they can be chewy, but they mellow over time in the refrigerator. Just a half-cup of steel-cut oats contains 64% of the daily recommended amount of manganese, a mineral that’s known for keeping bones and tissue healthy, and for combatting inflammation.

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

Dark chocolate oat bars

YOUR HEALTH TIPS Oats and oatmeal have enjoyed a resurgence in recent years, as overnight oats and granola bowls turned trendy seemingly out of nowhere. But Yin Cao, ScD, MPH, associate professor of surgery at Washington University School of Medicine, points out that humans have been incorporating oats into their diets since the Paleolithic era. “Packed with complex carbohydrates, vitamins and minerals, oats are among the most nutrient-dense foods you can eat,” she said. “The consumption of oats has been determined to be beneficial for human health by promoting immunomodulation and improving gut microbiota. In addition, oat consumption assists in preventing diseases such as atherosclerosis, dermatitis and some forms of cancer.” Studies have suggested that the gut is the biggest benefactor of eating oats. For one thing, oats contain a soluble fiber known as beta-glucan. “Beta-glucan

partially dissolves in water and forms a thick, gel-like solution in your gut, aiding in the reduction of blood glucose and insulin responses, increased growth of good bacteria in the digestive tract and the regulation of Type 2 diabetes,” Cao said. Further, it takes oats a long time to digest, and they’re full of fiber, meaning you’ll feel sated for longer and be less likely to eat excess calories throughout the day. Oats are also a good source of nutrients such as manganese and copper, and there’s evidence they help lower cholesterol. If you hear “oats” but think “mush,” there are plenty of ways to add some texture and flavor to your morning bowl. Seeds and nuts will give a satisfying crunch, while fresh fruit and spices can conjure endless flavor combinations — not to mention extra vitamins. It’s tempting to opt for instant oatmeal, but these store-bought varieties can be high in calories and use artificial flavors. Cao recommends

siteman.wustl.edu/YDR 48

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

3 ripe bananas 1 ¼ cup oats ¼ cup peanut butter ½ cup dark chocolate chips

YIN CAO, ScD, MPH Associate professor of surgery at Washington University School of Medicine

1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp cinnamon

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMAN CANCER CENTER

taking a different tack: “Limited time in the morning? Oats can be prepared the evening before as a type of overnight oats. Simply place the prepared oats in a jar with your favorite toppings and leave them in the refrigerator until you’re ready to go the next morning,” she says. “Looking for an on-the-go snack? Oats make the perfect base. Simply add in your favorite fruit and you have a tasty treat to get you through the day.”

PREPARATION o Preheat oven to 350 F. Mash ripe bananas in a large mixing bowl and mix in all other ingredients. (Save a few chocolate chips for later to sprinkle on top.) Pour mixture into a greased 9-by13-inch baking dish, using spatula to smooth batter. Sprinkle remaining chocolate chips on top. Bake 15 to 20 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out clean. Allow to cool and cut into squares. Can store in the fridge for up to five days.

Innovators Portraits by Jennifer Silverberg

ow, meet the people who said “Isn’t there a better way to do this?” and then actually did

something about it. Feast’s Industry Innovators are working hard to change the industry from the inside out, whether it’s by reinventing what collegiate dining looks like, launching an inclusive cooking studio or bringing mindfulness to your morning muffin.

WINTER 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

Greteman BAR MANAGER, Lazy Tiger

lthough he’s extremely humble about it, Lazy Tiger bar manager David Greteman is ushering in a new kind of bar culture in which guests – both those who drink alcohol and those who are abstaining – can try drinks that shake up their expectations in the best way. “I’m glad I can make cocktails that are accessible, even if they sound weird or contain ingredients people aren’t familiar with,” Greteman says. “But at the same time, to have a level of accessibility in your cocktail that crosses so many interest groups? That’s how you know you’ve done a good job. That makes me more excited than making a cocktail at this point.”

by Emily Standlee

Greteman has worked in St. Louis establishments ranging from Handlebar to the now-shuttered Elmwood. He eventually landed at Lazy Tiger, a brainchild of Tim Wiggins and Travis Howard. Among their restaurants’ bar programs, one quality remains constant – the rare ability to conjure drinks that feel simultaneously recognizable and out of this world. “There’s a broad spectrum of people that come in,” Greteman explains. “Some order off the menu and some say, ‘Make me something wild.’ So you want to get weird, but you also want people to enjoy their drink.” For example, the Low Country (bourbon, green tomato, sherry, pink guava, Japanese citrus and cardamom bitters) is one of Lazy Tiger’s most popular drinks, even though green tomato might seem strange in a cocktail. “I think that’s what excites people,” Greteman says. “They’re like, ‘I had no clue going into this what it would be like, and my expectations have been over-achieved.’ They take a chance with something they’re unfamiliar with.” Greteman wants guests who don’t drink to go on a similarly exciting journey. His dream is to flood the bar with a diverse collection of hydrosols, which are nuanced flavored waters he produces by distilling fresh plant material. “The idea is to get a library of hydrosols going so we can always have an extensive NA menu at Lazy Tiger,” he says. “I like to approach it like we’re creating new cocktails on the spot, with your likes and dislikes [in mind]. People [who don’t drink] can say, ‘I’m in control of this.’ It allows for a level of comfortability.” Despite his innovative ideas, Greteman doesn’t see himself as a leader of some life-altering movement. “I’m just doing my part in the movement, which, once it becomes more commonplace, won’t be a movement,” he says. “It should feel normal but still give people the ability to build what they want to drink from the ground up.” Lazy Tiger, 210 N. Euclid Ave., Central West End, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-925-8888, lazytigerstl.com

Scan the code to learn more about hydrosols from Greteman and other makers in St. Louis.

ome people seem like they were just born to be teachers, and Jackie Price fits that mold. However, not many use that gift to teach culinary arts to the masses, which is exactly what Price aims to do with her newly opened Fennel Cooking Studio in Midtown. It’s a dream she’s been steadily working toward for most of her life.

Even as a child, Price found herself in the kitchen with her family of cooks. Weekends were filled with trips to the fish market in Washington, D.C., and menu-planning with her parents to prepare for weekly dinner parties with friends. “I think that’s how I really started picking up on experimenting with things and cooking as a hobby or a project, not just as [something] we have to do every single night,” she says. While attending culinary school at Johnson & Wales University, Price found her true passion in her on-campus job teaching cooking lessons to the public. She went on to Saint Louis University’s graduate program in nutrition and eventually started teaching culinary students there. “After doing that for a while, I really wanted to teach cooking without having to grade people,” she says. “I wanted it to be more far-reaching and more community-driven rather than academia-driven.” Fennel was born out of this desire to connect with the community through cooking. The concept got its feet wet as a pop-up, but Price says she always knew Fennel would be a brick and mortar with a goal to help people get excited about cooking. “It’s really satisfying when I can help people feel like, ‘You changed the way I thought about this’ or ‘This helps me make mealtime more exciting rather than mundane,’ or ‘I just feel excited and empowered,’” Price says. “It gives me goosebumps, you know?” To achieve this empowering atmosphere, Fennel’s structure is intentional. Classes are broken down into two categories: technique and cuisine. Technique classes focus on mastering a technique, such as pasta-making, with hands-on practice, and students leave the class feeling confident that they could repeat the process at home. In cuisine classes, students learn how to make a range of dishes from a specific cuisine and learn about ingredients with which they might not be as familiar. “My enthusiasm is contagious, and so I bring that energy to classes,” Price says. “I teach in a way that is very hands-on and lets people experiment with things.” One of Price’s proudest moments with Fennel was when this interactive approach paid off. A repeat client told her that Fennel’s mushroom classes “changed his life” by teaching him to look at mushrooms – and every other ingredient – in a new way. “He said, ‘Now I look at every ingredient with such excitement and curiosity,’” Price says. “If I had to sum it up, that would be my mission.”

Take a deeper look at Fennel Cooking Studio here.

Fennel Cooking Studio, 3043 Olive St., Midtown, St. Louis, Missouri, fennelstl.com

Price OWNER, Fennel Cooking Studio by Charlotte Renner

Metz & Gillilan

aitlin Metz and Andrew Gillilan, partners and co-owners of the perfectly nostalgic Saturday Morning Carton, dreamed up a business venture that can’t quite be categorized. It’s a breakfast service that delivers to homes within a large swath of St. Louis. Half dessert dispatch, half illustrative newspaper service, SMC gives its customers something to look forward to on Saturday mornings – a whimsical resource that invites its recipients to look inward and mindfully assess their own wellbeing. “The newspaper comes out of whatever was on my mind that week,” Metz explains. “Sometimes it’s hopeful; other times it’s brooding. I always end it with a prompt for paying attention and building a practice, along with check-in questions for your physical, mental, emotional, social and spiritual self.”

CO-OWNERS, Saturday Morning Carton

Already a married couple, Metz and Gillilan combined creative forces at Rise Coffee House, where they both worked at the time. Heartbroken after its shuttering in 2022, they reevaluated their

by Emily Standlee

priorities as a family, and Gillilan began using his talents as a selftaught baker to create some of the best muffins conceivable. Past flavors have included sugar-crusted muffins slathered in lemon curd topped with blueberries and creamy tropical muffins dusted in toasted coconut, but Gillilan is always working on others. The flavor combinations happen organically, like most aspects of the business. “We’ll be making s’mores in our backyard and dream up the most magnificent s’mores muffins,” Metz says. Recently, SMC began collaborating with Living Room Coffee & Kitchen to deliver cold brew coffee along with its cartons. The café is rumored to be working on a custom coffee blend roasted just for Metz and Gillilan. “Co-owners [and siblings] Hannah and Nate Larson have been so supportive of this project,” Metz says. The duo says they could’ve never predicted the attention SMC would receive, but they hope the delivery service shows how much they believe that caring for others – in whatever ways we can – is a sign of strength, not weakness. “Rather, it’s what keeps us ready to pivot and evolve in the direction of joy,” Metz says. “My hope for the future is that SMC unfolds at a rate we can adapt to with ease and that it continues to give more than it takes – that we lean into our curiosities so deeply that the work is a continual gift.” Folks outside SMC’s delivery zone can access digital copies of its newspaper on Metz’ Patreon or order physical copies via Etsy. Place an order at caitlinmetz.com/morning.

Saturday Morning Carton, instagram.com/saturdaymorningcarton

Read our Feast 5 with Metz and Saturday Morning Carton here.

o the untrained eye, 222 Artisan Bakery & Café might look like standard fare. But look beyond the cascade of pastries in the case, and you’ll see something deeper. The Edwardsville mainstay is something of a community gathering spot, with sandwiches named after regulars and pizza nights on weekends. What really makes 222 Artisan stand out from the rest, however, is its layered approach to education thanks to owner Trevor Taynor.

Taynor himself is a product of education, having trained at the world-renowned San Francisco Baking Institute. For years, he’s been passing that opportunity on to the bakers at his shop who want to dig deeper into the art by taking them to SFBI for days-long stints to train with bakers from all over the world. Between classes, Taynor pilots them all over San Francisco to some of the city’s most esteemed boulangeries and patisseries and gives them a peek into the creativity and innovation that lives within.

Taynor OWNER, 222 Artisan Bakery & Café by Shannon Weber

The skills learned at SFBI benefit the shop, from troubleshooting recipes to brainstorming new ideas, but it’s about the human connection as well. “It’s about appreciating my employees and giving them some education outside of just here,” Taynor says. “Then, we help them grow that [skillset].” In 2018, Southern Illinois University in Edwardsville approached Taynor with an opportunity to educate the community by teaching classes on campus. He had been toying with the idea of teaching, but there were size limitations at the shop; SIUE gave him space to bring those ideas to life in the form of three classes – Artisan I, Artisan II and Breads of the World – that have since expanded to six total classes. Students start learning basic techniques in Artisan I and build their skills through Artisan II and Breads of the World. They can further expand their knowledge through German Breads, Italian Breads and Advanced Bread Methods, which explores dough hydration and introduces pre-ferments. Students leave each class with confidence, new skillsets and 20 to 30 loaves as a reward for their efforts. Taynor leaves with the satisfaction that comes from doing what he loves. “I get into the science of it,” he says. “I love science and history and just try to incorporate that into the classes. It’s a lot of fun.” 222 Artisan Bakery & Café, 222 N. Main St., Edwardsville, Illinois, 618-659-1122, 222artisanbakery.com

Discover more about how Taynor brings world-class baking to Edwardsville here.

FALL 2023 FEASTMAGAZINE.COM

Gray Gray MARKET MANAGER, One Africa! One Nation! Farmers Market

n 2021 and 2022, the One Africa! One Nation! Farmers Market was held adjacent to Uhuru House at the Gary Brooks Black Power Community Garden. In 2022, the market was held each week – volunteers gathered to maintain and harvest produce to give to the community at no cost as children played nearby. One of these volunteers was then-vendor Rage Gray. “It was like an oasis surrounded by the crumbling buildings, vacant lots and trash-filled alleyways of the North Side,” Gray recalls. “I could see that this market filled a critical need in this community.” Gray came back often and found more ways to help; by January 2023, they were asked to take on the role of market manager.

by Shannon Weber

The OAON Farmers Market is more than the name suggests; behind it lies a fight for a cultural shift. “This market takes on the question of food and community commerce,” Gray says. “When we buy and sell to each other, we keep our dollars in our neighborhoods. Connecting with Black farmers and gardeners allows us to teach our people where real food comes from, and it ensures that there is plenty for everyone who needs it.” To reinforce this commitment, many OAON farmers participate in regular free produce giveaways to provide the community with fresh food at no cost. This mission is an extension of the African People’s Education & Defense Fund, the nonprofit behind the OAON Farmers Market, which aims to end the disparities faced by African people by putting economic power into the hands of the African working class. During Gray’s tenure, this journey unfolded in many ways throughout North St. Louis. For example, the organization built a new basketball court in a formerly vacant lot that will be home to a youth basketball program, with more projects in the works. Gray’s work is never-ending and widespread; at OAON, their team of three – all of whom are volunteers – is responsible for every aspect of bringing the market to life. It’s a massive undertaking, but one that is intensely personal to them. “I fight for the mission of this market because I know what it’s like to go to bed hungry,” they explain. “I know what it’s like to be a parent stressed out about how you’re going to feed your kids and keep a roof over your head. We’re all struggling. I am part of an organization that works to address all of these problems, and I want my community to see that we really can organize to solve whatever it is we are facing.” One Africa! One Nation! Farmers Market, O’Fallon Park, St. Louis, Missouri, oneafricamarket.com

Learn more about One Africa! One Nation! Farmers Market’s mission here.

he phrase “campus dining” isn’t one that typically inspires excitement, but at Washington University in St. Louis, all that has changed. After testing the waters with local coffee roaster Coffeestamp in 2022, the university is now home to five more local restaurants: BEAST Craft BBQ and LaJoy’s Coffee Café in the Schnucks Pavilion; Collins Farm in Anheuser Busch Hall; Corner 17 in Olin Library; and the Fattened Caf in McKelvey Hall.

The transition to local restaurants marks a new era for WashU and was made possible by the university’s stellar dining team; Tiffany de la Roche, assistant director for retail dining; and Andrew J. Watling, director for dining services, who spearheaded the program. It’s part of a larger initiative on campus to not only amplify diversity in all aspects of campus life, but also to integrate the university – which has, at times, felt like an island – into the city as a whole. This process began three years ago when Watling arrived in St. Louis to begin his current role. His excitement about the St. Louis dining scene is contagious, and he’ll be the first one to tell you about all the amazing food options that fill the city. He’s been able to transition that admiration into a concrete program that means more than just new food choices for students. “Food for college students is such a big part of their experience, and we want to give students something they’ll remember,” he says. “It’s such a big piece of what makes this become their home.” These local restaurants provide community touchstones for students in an effort to immerse them in their new home city. “We really want to make sure that not only are students eating here, but also that they’re stretching those dollars further into the community,” Watling says. “If they’re new to St. Louis, it gives them destination points in the community that they’re familiar with from campus.” It also actively welcomes non-student St. Louisans into WashU’s venerable grounds in a way that feels organic to the city’s daily routine with a lineup of diverse fare available at locations just a few minutes’ walk from each other. “What we’re doing here is not just a token local diversity program,” Watling says. “We’re making meaningful and impactful decisions that can really help the community become something greater.” Washington University in St. Louis, 1 Brookings Drive, St. Louis, Missouri, wustl.edu

To learn more about how WashU’s groundbreaking dining program began, scan here.

J. Watling DIRECTOR FOR DINING SERVICES, Washington University in St. Louis by Shannon Weber

LAST CALL

C is Kuse Written by Emily Standlee | Photo by Jennifer Silverberg | Illustrations by Nermina Ferkic

You may have seen Chris Kuse at Grand Spirits – where he’s a bartender and the assistant general manager – or out serving at a Farm Spirit dinner, but his career actually started in ecology and anthropology research. He says the St. Louis food and drink industry isn’t too far off from his initial path; it’s provided him a space to learn about people and places, albeit a bit differently. RECENTLY, WE ASKED KUSE A SERIES OF RAPIDFIRE QUESTIONS. READ ON TO SEE WHAT HE HAS TO SAY ABOUT THE ST. LOUIS FOOD SCENE.

What drink do you bring at a BYOB house party? A magnum [a wine bottle of twice the standard size, normally 1½ liters] of natty wine, preferably orange.

What’s one piece of advice you’ve applied to your life or job in the past year? Just being unapologetically myself and embracing my inner nerd. I love learning, questioning and sharing knowledge – it’s what inspires me to create drinks.

What’s your go-to quick breakfast after a night out? A strawberry-mango smoothie out of a mason jar and a slice of cinnamon-raisin toast topped with ube jam. Fresh, light and soaks up everything from the night before.

Where are you bringing out-of-town visitors for a meal in STL? For first-timers, probably some hole-in-the-wall place like Montebello’s to get St. Louis-style pizza and t-ravs. After that, I’d want to take them to Little Fox, Sado or Olive + Oak.

What’s your favorite holiday food tradition? Every Thanksgiving, my grandpa would work for a week getting the turkey ready. Afterward, he would bring out a large stockpot and throw the turkey carcass in to make turkey soup. The soup wouldn’t be finished until the next day, but it would make enough for us to freeze and enjoy all winter long. It’s pure nostalgia and something my family has carried on since his passing.

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023

Read more of Kuse’s responses to our Last Call questions here.

FIRST THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 29, 2024 The Chase Park Plaza Royal Sonesta Join us for the sweetest event in town in support of Girl Scouts of Eastern Missouri! Guests will enjoy cocktails, cookie-inspired desserts and a seated dinner, while helping us celebrate the achievements of three Changemaker Scholarship Awardees and honor the contributions of our 2024 Legacy Builders. Purchase tickets at girlscoutsem.org/dessertfirst.

Individual Legacy Builder Neal Spencer Education Legacy Builder St. Louis Public School District

Corporate Legacy Builder Spire Community Legacy Builder United Way of Greater St. Louis

Presented by:

Sponsors A-Mrazek Moving Systems, Inc. • Ashdon Farms • Jenny & Chris Bartlow • Microsoft • CBIZ • Commerce Bank • MTM, Inc. • FEAST • Stone Hill Winery Additional sponsorships available. All proceeds support our girl leadership development programs. For more information, visit girlscoutsem.org/dessertfirst.

FEASTMAGAZINE.COM WINTER 2023