Feast Magazine December 2022

RESTAURANTS

PHOTO

PHOTO BY BEN NICKELSON

PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

1/29

St. Louis Best Bridal Expo

Sunday, Jan. 29, 1 to 4 p.m.; $10; The Reverie at The District, 10789 N. Outer 40 Road, Chesterfield, Missouri

Attendees can meet local wedding vendors and shop bridal looks and trends at this upscale showcase of all things St. Louis weddings. Visit STLtoday.com/ourevents to purchase tickets.

EDITORIAL

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Emily Adams, emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

MANAGING EDITOR Mary Andino, mandino@feastmagazine.com

DIGITAL EDITOR Shannon Weber, sweber@feastmagazine.com

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Charlo e Renner, crenner@feastmagazine.com

ASSISTANT EDITOR Emily Standlee, estandlee@feastmagazine.com

PROOFREADER Alecia Humphreys

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Aurora Blanchard, Amber Fisher, Alecia Humphreys, Mabel Suen, Gaby Weir Vera, Jiana West

SALES

VICE PRESIDENT OF SALES

Kevin Hart, khart@stlpostmedia.com

MEDIA STRATEGIST

Erin Wood, ewood@feastmagazine.com

ART ART DIRECTOR

Dawn Deane, dawn.deane@feastmagazine.com

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Laura DeVlieger, lauradevlieger@laduenews.com

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Ben Nickelson, Jennifer Silverberg, Mabel Suen

CONTACT US

Feast Magazine 901 N. 10th St., St. Louis, MO 63101 314.475.1260 | feastmagazine.com

DISTRIBUTION

To

contact Rich Hudson at rhudson@post-dispatch.com.

editor’s letter

Each year, Feast dedicates a very special edition to the new restaurants that set our local culinary scene ablaze from the very first course.

This issue shines a light on 10 local eateries – all of which have been open only since September 2021 at the earliest, but each of which have already made a lasting impact on the St. Louis metro area.

From the classic, refined French bistro that lit up our Instagram feeds this year (p. 24) to the Hawaiian grill mastering island-inspired favorites (p. 25 ), each of these 10 up-and-comers should be on your must-try list.

Read about the Southern brunch food truck that launched its first brick-andmortar to much acclaim in February on p. 26, and learn about the longtime friends whose love for sourdough tartines inspired one of Clayton’s most beloved new cafés on p. 27. St. Louis’ sole cevicheria is the star of p. 28 , and the best spot in STL to taste a full menu of traditional Oaxacan cuisine is featured on p. 29 . And don’t

miss reading about the health-forward Northern Indian classics that have swept the St. Ann restaurant scene on p. 30 . Discover the handmade noodle shop we can’t stop talking about on p. 31 . Explore the hyper-seasonal Mediterranean-inspired dishes keeping our tastebuds on their toes on p. 32 , and meet the sisters reinventing the traditional pan-Asian recipes passed down by their mother on p. 33 .

After flipping through this edition, we know you’ll agree that 2022 was a banner year for exciting new eats in St. Louis. Be sure to pick up a copy of next month’s issue, too, to learn about the individuals the Feast team has named as the top rising stars and industry innovators – the ones to watch – in the metro area.

Cheers!

Emily Adams emily.adams@feastmagazine.com

Comevisitus forsomeofthe bestburgers, beer,and atmosphere intown!

JackNolen’s 2501S.9thSt. inSoulard!

Sunday:11:00am–5:00pm Monday:Closed Tuesday–Saturday: 11:00am–10:00pm

ASSEMBLY

Extremely popular in Latin America, pernil is a type of slow-cooked pork shoulder. Although there is no wrong way to eat it, my favorite preparation is as a sandwich of only three elements: bread, pork and mayonnaise. Don’t be fooled by these seemingly simple components; this recipe really does make each one count. Marinating the pork is essential and is also an opportunity to maximize flavor. I like to combine traditional flavors, such as limes, garlic and cilantro, with salty, umami-packed anchovies. I leave the bread to the pros and head to the best bakery in town to get a few fresh baguettes. As for the mayonnaise, farm fresh

are what make it really special.

STORY AND RECIPE BY GABY WEIR VERA | PHOTOS BY BEN NICKELSON

Panettone Bread Pudding With Amaretto Whipped Cream

WRITTEN BY AMBER FISHER PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

Panettone is an Italian sweet bread studded with dried or candied fruit and infused with lemon and orange peel. In a sea of Christmas cookies and cakes, panettone sometimes gets overlooked in my house around the holidays and tends to go stale in the cupboard. With basic pantry ingredients and little effort, this no-waste recipe transforms an old loaf into a creative twist on a comforting classic.

SERVES|6TO8|

BREAD PUDDING

1 cupwholemilk

1 cuphalf-and-half

6 cupsstalepanettonebread, cubedinto1-inchpieces

3 eggs,beaten ¹⁄₃ cupgranulatedsugar

2 Tbspunsaltedbutter,melted (plusmoreforgreasing)

1 tspvanillaextract   pinchofsalt  darkchocolateshavings(forgarnish)

AMARETTO WHIPPED CREAM

1 pintheavycream,chilled ½  cuppowderedsugar

2 Tbspamarettoliqueur

/ preparation / Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with butter. In a large bowl, whisk eggs, sugar, butter, vanilla and salt. Add whole milk and half-and-half, and mix until smooth. Arrange bread cubes in the prepared baking dish in a single layer with some overlap. Pour custard mixture over the bread, folding lightly with a spatula to ensure an even coating. Cover, and place in the fridge to soak for at least 1 hour.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 325°F. Pour cream and powdered sugar into a mixing bowl. Beat on medium speed with a hand mixer until soft peaks form, about 5 minutes. Add amaretto, increase speed to high and beat until stiff peaks form, 1 to 3 minutes. Cover and chill until ready to serve. Remove bread pudding from the refrigerator, and bake uncovered until a skewer or metal knife inserted in the center comes out clean, about 50 minutes. Let cool before slicing. Serve warm with amaretto whipped cream and chocolate shavings to garnish.

ONE ON ONE

ONE on Must-Try Dishes at Maize & Wheat

3beef arepa

Niswonger describes this classic dish as a stuffed corn pancake. When filled with beef and cheese, it makes for a filling, quick lunch.

WRITTEN BY ALECIA HUMPHREYS | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Shortly after Claudia Niswonger moved to St. Louis from Santander, Colombia, she noticed the lack of Colombian cuisine within the metro area. After several years of serving up Colombian cuisine at different festivals around the city, she decided to open Maize & Wheat Colombian Cafe, a brick-and-mortar in Brentwood, Missouri. “I just wanted to have a place where people feel like this is Colombia,” Niswonger says. “We want to keep all our authentic flavor, so it’s something that if clients try an empanada and [then] they go to Colombia, they say, ‘Oh, yeah! Maize & Wheat Colombia Cafe in St. Louis – they are selling authentic Colombian food.’”

For those who may be unfamiliar, how would you describe Colombian food?

Colombian cuisine is very tasty. We have a lot of special flavors. People ask, ‘Is it spicy?’ No, it’s not spicy. They’ll ask, ‘Can I have a tortilla?’ No, we are not Mexican; we are Colombian, which is in South America. There is some confusion, but in Colombia, we don’t eat a lot of spicy foods.

How did you learn to cook Colombian cuisine?

I was raised in a kind of foster home. The lady took care of many, many kids. I was very lucky to be there because she liked to make empanadas and arepas. On Saturdays and Sundays, I had to go through my neighborhood and places to sell the empanadas. I was really good at selling them. She tried to teach me, but I, as a child, was not

very interested in learning how to cook. I just watched her doing it. But when I started doing them, I started with that.

What does it mean to you that you get to share Colombian culture with St. Louis?

I’m very proud to be Colombian, and I want to show our culture. We are not what the media is showing. I want to show all the people that that’s not what we are. We are hardworking women, and we want the best for our families. We love everybody. We want to break the stereotypes that people have about Colombia that are not right.

How has Maize & Wheat Colombian Cafe been received by the community so far?

My first idea was to get a small place where I

can sell my empanadas, arepas, coffee and juice – that’s it. But clients and the people in St. Louis have been asking for more. We had to add more dishes, but we were not necessarily ready to do that, so we are slowly transforming my café to a restaurant. I’m very happy because I have a chance with this great location, and I have all the support. The community and people from St. Louis have been amazing, and we are hoping to do the transition from the café to the restaurant soon. We are even planning to have live music there. So it’s going to be very fun and something nice that people can enjoy.

Maize & Wheat Colombian Cafe, 1912 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, Missouri, 314-755-1828, maizeandwheat.com

bandeja paisa

Niswonger calls this dish “completely Colombian.” It includes fried pork belly, ground beef, sweet plantain, Colombian sausage, red beans and white rice, an arepa, avocado and a fried egg.

empanadas

Niswonger recommends everyone try one of her flour empanadas, which come in chicken, beef, Hawaiian, cheese and vegetable varieties.

ClaudiaNiswonger / owner, Maize & Wheat Colombian Cafe

PRESENTED BY

COOKINGWITH HEALTHYOILS

CANOLA

Afterlearningthat a chemical calledhexaneisused toextract canolaoilfrom seeds,some consumers grewwary ofthe product.Butstudieshave shownthattheamountof hexanepresentin canolaoilis so minusculeitposesvirtually zero risk.In fact,people who consumed canolaoilinone randomizedtrial were shown to havea lowerriskofheartdisease thanthosewho consumedany otherkindofoil.Canolais healthierthanbutteras a oneto-one swap for vegetableoilin baking, so it’s usefulinallkinds of recipes

CORN

Ifstir-fryingor sautéing, reach for cornoil:Ithas a highsmoke point,meaningit canwithstand highheat. Cornoilis extracted fromthe germof corn kernels,so ithas a more pronouncedflavor that’s perfect forhearty and savoryfood.It’s also affordable, easyto digestand agood source ofenergy

OLIVE

Oneofthehealthiestoils to consumeisalso amongthemost readilyavailable.Olive oilis loadedwithmonounsaturated fat, whichhasbeenshown to lowerLDL,or “bad,” cholesterol. The way olivesare pressed when making extra virginolive oil allows it toretainthephenols, compoundsthatmay bring even more ofthebenefits associated withantioxidants, suchas anti-inflammatory properties andimproved cellhealth.Olive oilofany kindis awelcome addition, particularlywhen usedas acornerstoneofthe Mediterraneandiet.

YOURHEALTHTIPS

Choosingtherightkindof oilcanbeslippery. Butafewtipscanhelp.

“Polyunsaturatedandmonounsaturatedfats aretypesofhealthyfats,whichcanimprove bloodcholesterol levelsand helplower therisk ofheartdisease,”saysHankDart,asenior healthcommunicationsleadin prevention andcontrolatSiteman CancerCenterat WashingtonUniversity SchoolofMedicine. “They’refoundinhighamountsinolive oil, peanut oil,corn oilandcanola oil,andinfoods likefish,avocadosandmanydifferentnuts.”

Saturatedfatsand,particularly,transfats aretypesofunhealthyfats,whichcanresult inunhealthybloodcholesterol levelsand increasetheriskofheartdisease,Dartsays.

Saturatedfatsarefoundinhighamountsin butter,cheese,icecream,otherfull-fatdairy products,redmeat,andcoconutandpalm oils.

EventhoughtheFDAdecreedin2015that artificialtransfatswereunsafetoconsume —andtheywerebannedfromtheU.S. foodsupplyin2018—Dartcautionsthat transfatscanstillbefoundinsomehighly processedstore-boughtsnacksandfastfood.

If“partiallyhydrogenated oils”appearinthe ingredientlist,hesays,it’sbesttosteerclear.

Trytoswitchoutunhealthyfatsthat youeat forhealthyfats,suchasreplacinghamburgers andsteakwithtunaorsalmon.

All oilishighincalories,sobemindfulof

SUNFLOWER

Sunfloweroilhas a highsmoke point, yetit’s also lightand flavorful,makingit afavorite amongchefs.Evenbetter, it’s a fine source ofvitaminE.One tablespoonofsunfloweroilwill bag40%ofthe recommended daily amount. Vitamin E hasshown somepromise in combating a slate of conditions andillnesses, including cataracts, allergies, asthmaanddiabetes

INGREDIENTS

2 cups basilleaves (nostems)

¼ cup walnuts

¼ cup pistachios (shelled)

2 large cloves garlic

¾ cup extra virgin olive oil

portions.Experimentingwith oilindifferent kindsofdishescannetantioxidantsandhelp boosthearthealth.“Healthy oilsand foods richinhealthyfatscanbefilledwithflavor,” Dartsays.“Makingthehealthyswitchiseasier than youmightthink.”

3

¼ cupgrated

Parmesancheese

Salt and pepper totaste

PREPARATION

Placewalnuts, pistachios and garlicin foodprocessorand pulse until wellchopped. Add basilandchopuntil combined. Drizzlein ½ cupofolive oil andpulse until combined. Add Parmesancheese andpulseto mixthoroughly.Add remaining ¼ cupofolive oilandpulse untilsmooth. Taste and season with saltandpepper, ifdesired. Add tocooked pasta,pizza, sandwiches,scrambledeggs or anything youlike.

PREPARATION

In a smallbowl, combineoil ofchoice with redpepper flakes, onionand garlic. Stir to mix. Squeeze injuice from onelemonandstir tocombine. Reserveseveralspoonfulsof mixture. Coatchickenorfish with remainingmarinade andletsit foratleast30 minutesprior tocooking. After cooking,spoon reserved mixtureoverdish.

HANK DART Healthcommunicationsleadat

WashingtonUniversity SchoolofMedicine

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER

SPONSORED C ONTENT BYKATHERINELEWIS

PHOTO PROVIDED BY SITEMANCANCERCENTER

WHAT IS IT?

Black limes, sometimes called Persian limes or limoo omani, are a prized ingredient in Middle Eastern cooking. Dried limes as an ingredient range in color from tan to black – a result of the methods by which they are brined and dried. Whereas the lighter variety of dried limes are brighter and sweeter, black limes are sour with a musky scent and smoky flavor that reminds you of fresh lime – with a decidedly earthy bent.

WHAT DO I DO WITH IT?

They might not look it, but black limes are easy to use in a multitude of ways. They’re o en added to soups and stews in Persian cuisine, in which they infuse flavor and acid into the liquid as it simmers. Grate them with a zester, and use them in rubs or spice blends – they’re an ingredient in baharat, a spice blend found in different variations all over the Middle East. You can also add the grated rind to rubs, rice dishes for aroma and tahini or other dips as a darker version of lime zest

Blacklimesaren’thard tofindifyouhaveaccesstoa well-stockedMiddleEasternor internationalmarket.Lookfor themonlineinspecialtyspice oshopslikeCurioSpice,which encarriesbothwholeand powderedvarieties.

Tomakethedishvegan, usethevegetablestockoption below,andsubstitutefull-fat coconutmilkinfortheheavy creamforbothcookingand theswirltogarnish.

/ preparation / Heat oil in Dutch oven set over medium heat; add onion and garlic, and cook until so ened, 4 minutes. Add sweet potatoes and apple, stirring to coat; cook until they begin to so en, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in paprika, cumin and allspice to coat; pour in 5 cups of broth. Increase heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil; add whole black limes and reduce to simmer; cook for 30 minutes until potatoes are so Remove black limes with slo ed spoon and discard. Transfer mixture to blender to purée mixture, working in batches as needed. Add it back into Dutch oven, stir in salt and heavy cream and heat for 5 minutes on medium, adding more broth as needed until desired consistency is reached.

/ to serve / Divide into bowls, and swirl a small amount of cream into center. Sprinkle chopped cilantro and pepitas on top. Grate outside of black lime to make a fine dust; sprinkle over the soup to garnish. Serve hot.

WRITTEN BY SHANNON WEBER | PHOTOS BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

ONE ON ONE

ONE on Essential Components of Hot Pot

3broth

At Shabu Day, choose from sukiyaki broth made with a blend of soy sauce, cooking sake and seaweed for a rich, deep and savory flavor, beef broth made with beef short ribs; and a house spicy broth flavored with gochujang.

For husband-and-wife duo Victor Jang and Moon Kim, hot pot is the quintessential comfort food to share with loved ones around the table. The interactive meal involves cooking thin slices of meat and fresh vegetables in bubbling hot savory broth before dipping them in your choice of sauce – an altogether pleasing process you can repeat to your heart’s content. With Shabu Day, the restaurateur power couple also behind Wudon BBQ Korean Restaurant, brings their take on shabu shabu to St. Louis in an all-you-can-eat format – all in a relaxing setting decorated with Moon’s beautifully handcrafted art.

What made you decide on hot pot for your latest concept? We’re from New York, and hot pot boomed there 10 years ago. We just wanted to bring it to St. Louis so people could have that experience. We love shabu shabu and would get it anytime we traveled to a bigger city. At home, we make a lot of shabu shabu with all our favorite things. These are all our recipes, influenced by Korean and Japanese flavors. We’ve been trying these recipes out for more than 10 years at home and have made the broth over a thousand times, so it’s really good!

Why did you decide on an all-you-can-eat format? At a standard hot pot place, you are given a checklist of items to choose from,

which can be complicated for a first-timer. For us, as customers, we’d feel overwhelmed and were hesitant to order more, since it can get expensive. Here, we wanted to make it simple so customers wouldn’t have to feel that kind of pressure. Each meal comes with two broths, all-you-can-eat beef and pork and a tray of vegetables, such as bok choy, napa cabbage and mushrooms, as well as ramen noodles, fish balls and dumplings. Our philosophy is that guests always leave full and happy.

What is the secret to offering a superior hot pot experience? When customers come in, we want them to feel at home, so we focused on a comfy, casual style. It’s a friendly neighborhood

restaurant cozy enough for friends and family. Food quality is No. 1.

What has been the overall response so far? We didn’t know how people would respond to hot pot, but so far, so good. People come again and bring their families and friends, and they’ve made a lot of really good, honest comments. It’s given us a lot of confidence about this concept. Some business people say the St. Louis market is really tough, but we think this city has a lot of potential. It’s a lovely city, and we love St. Louis people.

Shabu Day, 8237 Olive Blvd., University City, Missouri, 314-755-1075, instagram.com/shabu.day

meat

Shabu Day offers high-quality premium beef and pork with generous marbling and slices each piece extremely thin to create the perfect tender bite that cooks in only a few seconds.

sauce

Options include a simple house sauce made with soy sauce, vinegar, sugar and wasabi; house spicy sauce with a garlicky Sriracha base, and a Japanese-style sukiyaki sauce.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

WRITTEN BY JIANA WEST | PHOTO BY JENNIFER SILVERBERG

ItalianChristmas THAT’SAMORE!

Ah,Italia!Imagine you are with yourlove motoringalong colorfulseasidetowns drippingwith lemontrees.Then you travel overgentlyrollinghillsfullofgrapevinesladenwith purplishfruit.You then f ind yourselfsnuggled up in acozy Alpinehideaway with theperfect bottleof red Every thingabout Italy sings amore! Thisholiday season, why not bring a tasteof Italy to yourentertaining, with a littlehelpfromDierbergs.

WINENOT?

Benvenuto tosomeofthebestredwinesontheplanet!To helpyouexperience someofthe wonderful varietiesofItalian reds for your Italiano-themedspread, consultthe recommendationsbelow.

CHIANTI CL ASSICO

InItaly, Sangiovesegrapesare prevalent andhighlyprized fortheiracidstructure, tanninsandaromasofdark cherries. A ChiantiClassicomustinclude atleast 80% Sangiovese Look fortheiconicblackrooster (GalloNero)onthe labelto find a true Chianti Classico Thiswinepairs wellwith tomato-baseddishesand Pecorino cheese

Toscolo ChiantiClassico (2018) ismedium bodiedwith afull rubycolorandaromas ofblueberry, blackberry,cassis, chocolate, mochaandincense.

Anotherlovely choiceis Isole e Olena Chianti Classico (2019) Thismediumbodiedredisperfumedwithberries, forest floorandbakingspice, anditsjuicy palate featuresripeMorello cherry,crushed raspberry, whitepepperandstaranise

Anddon’t misstheripeandjuicy Cavaliere D’Oro Chianti Classico (2017) withblack cherry, walnut andslightmushroom character

BRUNELLO

Brunello diMontalcino, sometimescalled thekingofwines,contains100% Brunello Sangiovesegrapes.The Brunello grape has a thickerskinanddarker colorthan Sangiovese, withmorecomplexity. This sophisticatedwinepairs wellwith food, especiallygrilled meats.

One veryspecialwinetotryis Il Poggione BrunelloDiMontalcino(2017) Withnotesof cherries,potpourri,darktobacco, licorice, shrubsandintense smoky hints,ithasjust the right freshness and f inish

SUPERTUSCAN

Super Tuscansare anunofficialcategory of Tuscanwines,whichcame aboutwhen producers,aiming for a uniquequality, deviated fromChianti regulationsby adding othergrapes,such asMerlot.Theresultis a high-qualitywinewith acult following

Podere Grattamacco Bolgheri Rosso (2020) is a blendofCabernetSauvignon,CabernetFranc, Merlotand10%Sangiovese Silky,layeredand light, you’lltastehintsofblueberry, menthol, licorice, pineand cinnamon.

AMARONE

Amaroneis a richredwinemade from Valpolicella grapesgrowninthe Veneto Region.Thegrapesare driedbefore being pressed,which concentratesthesugar andtypically resultsin a higheralcohol content.Amaroneages welland canbe trulyspectacular afavoriteofDierbergs’ wine connoisseur, GregDierberg.

Zenato Amarone(2017) isanAmaronedella Valpolicella Classico. Itissilky with a bit ofcinnamon, cacao, black raspberryand balsam herbs

ENTERTAIN WITHEASE

If you needany help selectingtheperfect items for your Italian Christmas festa, please visitDierbergs.comor hopon your motorbike andvisit your friendly neighborhood store. Salute! And BuonNatale!

ANTIPASTI, PER FAVORE

Fortheperfect aperitivo time, pair your wineswith a platterorboard ofbitesizedantipasti.Here are just afew recommendations for yourboard.

MEATS

Handcrafted,artisan-curedmeats by family-ownedand-operated VolpiMeats. Try a mixofsalami,mortadella and prosciutto,forstarters

CHEESES

Dierbergsisespecially proud oftheir selectionof cheeses fromWisconsin. Recommendations:Thenuttyflavored MariekeGouda,aged9-12months,and fromCarr Valley Cheese, themixedmilkMenage, thesubtlechocolateflavor inCocoaCardona,softFontina,sharp CheddarandSwiss-style Gruyere.

GARNISHES

A mixof red,black andgreenolives, such asthemeaty but mildCastelvetrano ofSicily. Addsmallbowls ofItalian hazelnutsandalmonds Formorecolorand sweetness,sprinkle insome freshberries, driedapricotsanddates.

BREADAND OIL

Slices of crustyItalianbreadwith a tasty olive oilfordipping, and crispyPatti GrissiniItalianBreadsticks,which are easy toeatand funtocrunch.

SPO

Coffee Flights

YOU’VE HEARD OF BEER FLIGHTS AND WINE TASTINGS – BUT WINTER 2022 IS OFFICIALLY THE SEASON OF THE COFFEE FLIGHT.

Several St. Louis coffee shops have recently launched tasting flights that showcase the best blends, milks and roasting techniques in sample-sized portions, much to area coffee connoisseurs’ delight.

Course Coffee Roasters

With coffee in 10-ounce tasting portions, Course Coffee offers two different samples in its signature flight called “The One Way” and three in its “Around the World” offering. With a coffee menu that is constantly changing, guests have the rare opportunity to try houseroasted batches that might only be there for a week or two.

Owner Brandon Runk recommends approaching the tastings from different vantage points. For example, a guest could sample different coffees from the same region or coffees from opposite ends of the globe to compare and contrast.

“Sometimes, we try to offer coffees [on the same tasting flight] that don’t traditionally go together,” Runk says.

Coma Coffee

Since opening six years ago, Coma Coffee has offered a coffee tasting flight of a 4-ounce cortado (which includes a double shot of espresso and two ounces of milk), a 4-ounce drip coffee and a 4-ounce cold brew. A guest ordering the tasting flight can follow the “barista’s choice” or choose from a selection of single-origin blends.

“We try to source our coffee from all over the world and source by season; as for the other ingredients, we try to source locally and keep it as close to home as possible, including our Rolling

Lawns Farm milk,” owner Macy Holtzman says.

Holtzman recommends pairing the Storyteller cortado with the Sidamo Ethiopian drip coffee and the Kenyan cold brew. The Sidamo contains notes of peach tea florals, blueberries and dates, and the Kenyan coffee has hints of raspberry jam, praline and milk chocolate.

Coma Coffee, 1034 S. Brentwood Blvd., Richmond Heights, Missouri, 314-250-1042, comacoffee.com

This winter, Runk recommends pairing the black tea-flavored Kenyan coffee with the Ugandan coffee, which has hints of blackberry, and the red honey processed coffee from Costa Rica that contains notes of sugarcane, white grape and pear.

Course Coffee Roasters, 1218 N. 2nd St., St. Charles, Missouri, 217-481-6244, coursecoffeeroasters.com

WRITTEN BY AURORA BLANCHARD | PHOTOS SUPPLIED

PHOTO BY CAMERON MCCARTY

PROMOTION

Teleo Coffee

This year, Teleo Coffee started offering iced or hot coffee flights with three 9-ounce (iced) or 8-ounce (hot) portions. The three most popular latte selections, according to owner Olivia Oglesby, include the Lavender Vanilla with housemade simple syrup, the Honey Bear with cinnamon and honeycomb and the Love Your Neighbor with mocha and sea salt. Cold foam can be added to any of the drinks for a richer, creamier mouthfeel. Its new maple vanilla cold foam is sprinkled with pumpkin dust from the

“We used to have an employee who would chug the cold foam as if it were an espresso shot because it was so delicious,” Oglesby says.

Guests can also add non-coffee drinks to their tasting flight, including the Blue Drink, which is flavored with coconut and citrus.

Teleo Coffee, 132 W. Monroe Ave., Kirkwood, Missouri, 314-394-0099, teleocoffee.com

Latte Lounge

In March 2021, Latte Lounge + HG Eatery began offering flights of five distinct lattes in 12-ounce portions.

“From my understanding, Latte Lounge was the first place to offer latte flights in St. Louis County; I think that people were looking for non-alcoholic flights, as well as something that would be Instagrammable, so we’ve had a good response so far,” co-owner Nyshaun Harvey says.

According to Harvey, the cinnamon latte and turtle latte make the best pair. Other options include a white chocolate mocha and a caramel macchiato. Milk offerings include whole milk, almond milk and oat milk. Latte flights are served at both the Florissant and downtown St. Louis locations.

Latte Lounge, multiple locations, llhgstl.com

In1866,GeorgeHusmann,aprofessor attheUniversityofMissouri,prophesied thattheUnitedStateswouldonedaybe theworld’sgreatest wine-producingcountry. Atthetime,itseemedas ifhishomestatemight leadtheway;itranked secondinthenationin grapegrowing,andwines fromMissourisurprised criticsinwineexhibitions inParisandVienna.Thegrapevariety Norton,ajammy,full-flavoredhybrid, wasespeciallyhighlyregarded-itwas comparedbyoneBritishwineexperttored Burgundy“withoutthefinesse.”Ultimately, pestsanddisease(especiallymildewand rot)tooktheirtollonMissouri’swine industry.Bythe1880s,mostvineyards weredyingorabandoned.Thosewineries thatsurvivedProhibitiondidsoby reinventingthemselvesasjuiceandjelly manufacturers.

Arebirthcameinthe1970sand1980s,with newlawsthathelpedjump-startamodern wineindustry.Thatrenaissancehaspicked upsteam,especiallyinthepastfiveyears. In2020,forexample,theHoffmannFamily ofCompanies,aFloridaconglomerate, boughtfourofMissouri’s wineriesandhasplanned a$100-millionvisitorand entertainmentcomplex withwineasthecentral theme.

TodayMissourihas130 mostlysmallwineries,and 1,700acres(700hectares) ofvineyardland.Theleadinggrapes arehybrids,especiallyNorton,Vignoles, andChambourcin.(RöbllerVineyard’s ChambourcinReserveisfulloftastydark cherryandspiceflavors.)Inadditionto RöbllerVineyard,twoothertopwineriesare StoneHillandLesBourgeois.

Old Town Spice Shoppe in St. Charles.

OldWebsterGroves

111WLockwoodAve 314-395-6094

LeMacaron1StLouis@gmail.com M-Sat9sm-10pmSun9am-9pm lemacaronstlouis of SaintLoius

ST. LOUIS’ CULINARY SCENE IS CONSTANTLY CHANGING, AND THIS YEAR, TRANSFORMATION AND EVOLUTION ARE AT THE HEART OF OUR 10 PICKS FOR THE BEST NEW RESTAURANTS IN THE METRO AREA.

From a seasonally-driven Mediterranean spot located in the home of a beloved former St. Louis café to the two sisters who opened a new restaurant to honor their mother’s longtime eatery, this year’s honorees exemplify innovation and reinvention. We are excited to share the stories behind the businesses and the people who are pushing our city’s food scene in exciting new directions.

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Upon opening, Bistro La Floraison faced a bevy of expectations: fill the former space of beloved Bar Les Freres, continue the success of Take Root Hospitality Group – which includes the acclaimed Vicia and Winslow’s Table – and bring something new to French cuisine in St. Louis. Several months into service, it’s safe to say that the restaurant has met and even surpassed diners’ expectations.

The menu offers classic French dishes built on refined techniques, but with unexpected ingredients and flair. For example, the steak tartare includes a smoked bone marrow vinaigre e and housemade salt and vinegar potato chips dusted with citric acid for extra zing. “There’s so many flavors going on and textures, and the chips are incredibly addicting,” says Tara Gallina, co-owner of Take Root Hospitality.

The Pain Perdu, or French toast, might best exemplify the restaurant’s method of taking a simple dish and transforming it into something spectacular. It’s made with brioche and salted caramel and served with crème fraîche gelato, made by Clementine’s Naughty and Nice Creamery exclusively for Bistro La Floraison. “It’s salty and sweet and crunchy and so and hot and cold; it’s everything you want in a dessert,” Gallina says.

“My parents came in, and they’re not big dessert people,” chef Patrick Fallwell says. “I sent it to them anyway because I’m like, ‘You guys go a eat this.' It’s ridiculously simple but

also ridiculously good.”

Guests can enjoy a full meal at the bistro or just swing by to enjoy a post-work glass of wine with friends. Under the guidance of beverage director Kara Flaherty, the restaurant offers a curated list of French and French-inspired wines.

“What is special about it is that we have really opened up the accessibility of it,” Gallina says. Because nearly the entire list is offered by the bo le and the glass, guests are free to experiment and try special or unique wines without going all-in on an expensive bo le.

“There’s a wide variety that is outside of what people always assume, and it doesn’t all have to be super expensive. We’ve got some appropriately priced wines,” she says.

The same sentiment of accessibility paired with flair extends to Bistro La Floraison’s entire ambiance. “It’s fun, it’s a li le playful, it’s romantic,” Gallina says. “It’s the kind of place where you don’t have to be fancy to come, but when you’re there, you feel like you are.”

As you sit on the large pink banque e, listen to French house music and enjoy caviar service as the lights begin to dim, the staff is sure you’ll feel transported to somewhere else that is chic and comfortable at the same time.

Bistro La Floraison, 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, Missouri, 314-725-8880, bistrolafloraison.com

At Buzz’s Hawaiian Grill, when co-owner Thomas “Buzz” Moore says aloha, he means it from the heart. To Moore, the word is much more than just a greeting: It’s a way of life that represents love and unity, and this philosophy underscores everything he does at the restaurant.

Moore previously lived on the north shore of Oahu, and it was during his work commute to Honolulu that he developed a lasting fondness for Hawaiian lunch joints. A er moving to St. Louis in 1986, he mastered many of his island-inspired favorites at home and regularly creates comforting meals for his family and friends with care.

In 2016, he and his wife Leta, who co-owns Buzz’s, decided to share their passion for Hawaiian culture and cuisine with the rest of St. Louis by starting a food truck. The concept is a family affair through and through. Buzz has five daughters, and three of them help out with the food truck; the other two, along with six grandchildren, still live in Hawaii.

When Moore isn’t planning annual trips to spend time with his family, he’s busy sharing the spirit of aloha with St. Louisans. Buzz’s found a permanent home in the Tower Grove

East neighborhood in May 2022, which has allowed Moore to cook up even more recipes from his repertoire on a regular basis.

The menu features many dishes that represent the melting pot of Hawaiian cuisine. Signatures include poke, kalua pig, teriyaki steak, chicken yakitori and garlic shrimp, as well as savory and sweet staples such as Spam musubi (a snack of Spam, fried egg, rice, nori and soy sauce), lilikoi bars (think lemon bars with passion fruit) and banana bread. Specials rotate regularly and include everything from beef tomato (a Chinese-inspired stir-fry) and huli huli chicken (sweet and smoky grilled and basted chicken) to Hawaiian-style breakfast.

Since opening, Buzz’s Hawaiian Grill has hosted several community events featuring Hawaiian music and dance in hopes of spreading awareness about Pacific Islander traditions. Going forward, Moore intends to continue offering a taste of the islands all over St. Louis. In the meantime, his restaurant offers landlocked food lovers a relaxing slice of paradise in the middle of St. Louis’ South City.

Buzz’s Hawaiian Grill, 3457 Magnolia Ave., Tower Grove East, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-875-0076, buzzshawaiiangrill.com

WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Clara B’s Kitchen Table has had one heck of a growth spurt. The concept first began as a food truck in 2020 and then opened a brick-and-mortar in February 2022. Less than a year later, it’s time for the Southern brunch spot to expand again due to its wild popularity. “We’re ge ing a li le too big for our britches,” chef-owner Jodie Ferguson says.

Clara B’s Kitchen Table serves up brunch fare inspired by Ferguson’s grandma, Clara Bloodworth – the restaurant’s namesake. The menu reflects Bloodworth’s life; she was born in Louisiana and lived in Pennsylvania and Texas, so expect Southern dishes, barbecue and Tex-Mex. Almost immediately a er opening the brick-and-mortar location, Clara B’s made a name for itself as the go-to Sunday brunch spot “on the Illinois side of the river” – through no marketing of its own. “Our popularity has not come from any marketing other than word of mouth, for the most part,” Ferguson says.

Ferguson’s new spot will likely also be in Illinois, but will offer increased seating (the restaurant currently seats 30) and an expanded kitchen, which Ferguson plans to use to make more Southern-style baked goods like scones, pies and laminated doughs.

Another factor contributing to the need for more space is the rigorous cooking standards Ferguson employs. From the soups to the sauces, everything is meticulously made from scratch. The ranchero sauce, for example, is prepared by roasting vegetables and then slow-cooking them in a stock made with house-smoked chicken bones. Every taste and

every flavor is handpicked and curated for each dish. “Almost to a detriment, the focus is on quality of food,” Ferguson says. “When I say to a detriment, I mean there’s not a lot of things I’m willing to compromise as far as the ingredients or how things are prepared. If it takes a while, it takes a while.”

Find biscuits and gravy (also made with that smoked chicken bone stock) on Clara B’s menu each weekend; other popular dishes on the regular seasonal menu include spicy honey fried chicken biscuits and the loaded breakfast burrito.

Even though the food quality is inarguably high, Ferguson aims for the ambience to be friendly and unfussy. “I want [customers] to feel like they’re eating at their grandma’s house; I want the food to be good but not pretentious,” she says.

In a similar vein, Ferguson says she isn’t a “tyrant” of a chef. Instead, she welcomes outside opinions on her food from employees and customers alike. “It’s constant innovation and education,” she says. “The majority of [my employees] are really interested in trying to develop new things that they think people will like, and I’m very open to input from my staff, as well as criticism. That’s what kind of sets us apart from other local brunch places.”

These innovative ideas come to life through specials, which Ferguson likes to run as o en as possible. You can find updates on Clara B’s social media.

Clara B’s Kitchen Table, 106 E. Main St., Belleville, Illinois, 618-416-1812, clarabs.com

WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Julie Keane and Ashley Morrison share three things: a love for healthy eating, a decades-long friendship and, most recently, a restaurant. Keane’s passion for San Francisco-style sourdough bread and Morrison’s accounting expertise created the building blocks they needed to open Ivy Cafe - Coffee, Tartines & Things together in Clayton, Missouri, in July 2022.

Although tartines – open-faced sandwiches – might seem simple, the duo’s café has elevated them to an art form. The quality of ingredients and the level of care and detail put into each sourdough tartine set them apart, and every element is sourced from local farmers to prioritize seasonality. Nothing comes pre-prepared, and everything on the menu is made in-house and cooked to order.

“On a deeper level, it’s nice to be able to support so many local farmers,” Keane says. “It means so much to them; it’s incredible. And then to be able to support so many local artists that sell their items in our shop is a great source of pride.”

Upon entering the café, you’ll immediately notice an artistic aesthetic: local watercolors of flowers line the hall to the bathroom, an abstract nude sculpture hangs from the wall and tiny, intricate ceramics are displayed on a dark wooden bookshelf. Houseplants and flowers abound in the warm space. Even the café’s plates were made by Keane herself, a budding ceramicist. “There was intention behind everything, and we’re proud of that,” Morrison says.

Dedication and attention to detail are the café’s guiding principles. “We want [the guest] experience to be perfect,” Keane says.

This hard work has paid off. Although Ivy Cafe has only been open a matter of months, it’s already gained regulars who visit the café every day. Keane says that one especially dedicated regular saw someone getting coffee at a chain down the street, and let them know that they should patronize Ivy Cafe instead – which they did later that week.

“It’s an all-encompassing place where we’re really trying to build up and support a community and to have a place that’s really comfortable for guests,” Keane says. “But also at a price point where people can come in and have something that’s of a high quality that they can actually afford to regularly come to.”

There are plenty of future plans in the works for Ivy Cafe. Morrison and Keane have already seen a need for a more diverse lineup of menu items, so they’ve added more breakfast options and are always brainstorming new dishes. The duo also wants to launch private dinners at some point and maybe expand the café’s hours. In the long term, they see Ivy Cafe expanding across the St. Louis area. “We want to go out west,” Morrison says. “Our goal is to open three [locations] in the St. Louis area, and then to franchise.”

Ivy Cafe - Coffee, Tartines & Things, 14 N. Meramec Ave., Clayton, Missouri, 314-776-9377, ivytartines.com

If there’s one thing you should know about Jalea – St. Louis’ sole cevicheria – it’s that it’s a family endeavor. Almost every family member has a part to play in running the restaurant, from management to bookkeeping. Chef Andrew Cisneros and his sister, Samantha “Mimi” Cisneros, own Jalea together; Andrew runs the kitchen while Mimi handles daily operations. The Cisneroses also run Brasas, a Peruvian rotisserie chicken pop-up, and recently opened Sanguchitos by Brasas inside of Perennial Artisan Ales in South City.

“I couldn’t do this without my family,” Andrew Cisneros says. “It’s a food group that we’re in the works of naming, and all [of the restaurants] are going to be under the umbrella of the family food group. I wouldn’t say Brasas is mine and [that] Jalea is mine and my sister’s; it’s all one. It’s all family.”

When Jalea first opened in St. Charles in January 2022, the bistro-style restaurant had more of a focus on meat and served the popular lomo saltado (a beef stir-fry dish). Although Jalea has kept the bistro vibe, it has since transformed the menu to be more ceviche- and seafood-focused.

The restaurant’s namesake is a Peruvian dish consisting of fried fish, calamari or other seafood. “Our name is Jalea; we need to find a way to make that the star of the show because this is why we created this brand,” Cisneros

says. “We want people to start ordering it to pair with ceviche because that’s something that we saw was missing from the area.”

Ceviche is a traditional, fresh Peruvian dish made with raw, citrus-cured seafood. Jalea’s ceviche also includes mix-ins such as Peruvian corn, sweet potato, Fresno pepper, red onion and tiger’s milk. According to Cisneros, the tiger’s milk is the ingredient that brings the wow-factor for guests. It consists of lime juice, clam juice, peppers, ginger, garlic and a few other spices all blended together. “It’s spicy; it’s tangy,” he says. “It wakes you up.”

It’s possible that Jalea could expand to other parts of the St. Louis metro area, like Clayton or Ladue. Cisneros says the Jalea team is busy enough right now, but they’re open to possibilities. “If it’s the right fit, I don’t see why not,” he says.

As for long-term goals, Cisneros says the key to success for Jalea is maintaining a passionate group of people to keep the restaurant in good shape for the next generation: “As long as we love what we’re doing, I could see us staying open for years. That’s really the goal – to keep this business running to hand off to our children or the next generation of Cisneroses. That’s one of the reasons we opened the restaurant.”

Jalea, 323 N. Main St., St. Charles, Missouri, 314-303-0144, facebook.com/jalea.stl

WRITTEN BY CHARLOTTE RENNER | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

BES

RESTAURANT

La Oaxaqueña

Yolanda Soriano fondly recalls learning how to cook at her mother’s side while growing up in Oaxaca and making tortillas and tamales from scratch with fresh corn masa. At La Oaxaqueña, she transforms those memories into new moments with her family and community by offering a full menu of traditional Oaxacan cuisine in St. Louis.

“When I cook, I do it with all my heart; I have so many feelings,” Soriano says. “It reminds me of my mom and my family and how we used to be together before my mom passed away. It’s a good memory for me and reminds me of my childhood.”

Soriano’s mother died when she was only 13 years old, and her older sister was forced to step up as caretaker of the family. At the age of 16, Soriano came to the United States and worked in St. Louis and Illinois before se ling in the St. Louis area permanently. Over the years, she gained experience learning how to cook Tex-Mex-style cuisine while working at area eateries.

Those quintessential favorites make up a portion of the menu at the new South County restaurant, but it’s the Oaxacan specialties made from generational recipes that really bring something special to the table. “People come try [the Oaxacan cuisine] and like it; they say it’s really good and that it’s really

different,” Soriano says.

Molotes, for instance, are fried footballshaped masa filled with chorizo, potatoes and cheese and topped with refried beans, cabbage, queso fresco and salsa. The masa, which is nixtamalized and ground in-house, is also featured in other dishes on the menu, such as chicken tamales wrapped in plantain leaves. It also makes an appearance in picaditas, which resemble sopes and feature fresh blue or white masa topped with asiento (unrefined pork lard), refried beans, cheese, chopped cilantro, onions and salsa.

For Soriano, mole offers one of the best tastes of home; she remembers enjoying it with her family on special occasions. La Oaxaqueña offers amarillo (yellow mole), mole rojo (red mole) and mole negro (black mole) in various preparations, including served atop chicken breast with rice and corn tortillas. Each mole is chock-full of chiles, nuts, seeds, vegetables and spices and is slow-cooked based on handwri en recipes. The dish, which Soriano says requires lots of patience and love to make, is just one of the ways the Oaxacan chef carries on her family’s legacy with tenderness and respect.

La Oaxaqueña, 2925 Lemay Ferry Road, Mehlville, Missouri, 314-200-8212, laoaxaquenastl.com

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STORY AND PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

BES

RESTAURANT S

Salve Osteria

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Although Maaji’s Street Kitchen is Heena Chopra’s first culinary endeavor, she’s no stranger to the industry. Maaji’s chef-owner cut her teeth in the business by waiting tables for nearly 19 years before taking the leap to roll out her own passion project. Now, each comforting dish she prepares and serves to guests showcases her deep dedication to genuine hospitality.

M ji’s Str t Kitchen MENUMUST-TRY

The New Delhi native immigrated to the United States in 2003, and she’s been working in the food industry and introducing Indian cuisine to friends and colleagues ever since. Her first exposure to the world of food, however, came from her maaji, or mother, who is one of her main inspirations and the restaurant’s namesake. Chopra learned to cook at her mom’s side by helping out in the kitchen from a young age, picking cilantro leaves and blending the family’s masala chai.

Now, as a maaji herself, Chopra cooks the traditional meals she grew up with for her own children – but with a nutritious twist. Chopra’s health-forward take on Northern Indian classics includes organic ingredients, the use of sunflower or olive oil instead of bu er and lighter cooking techniques, such as air-frying. With Maaji’s Street Kitchen, she enthusiastically shares her wholesome homestyle cooking with anyone willing to try it.

At her St. Ann storefront, Chopra offers a menu of main dishes, sides, roll-ups and bowls, drinks and desserts. Each item bursts with bright, clean flavors teeming with balanced spices. An aromatic chicken curry, for instance, features shredded chicken, ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander, turmeric and a proprietary house-roasted garam masala blend.

Dal masala, another signature dish, is made with two varieties of lentils, tomatoes, ginger, garlic, green chile, turmeric and lemon juice. Each main is available as a bowl or rolled up in a light and flaky paratha. The same flatbread is available rolled up with Nutella and dusted with powdered sugar as Maaji’s Sweet Rolls – a dessert Chopra also o en enjoys with her kids, Jayda and Connor.

When she originally conceptualized Maaji’s, Chopra envisioned serving up her vibrant fare out of a food truck. Due to the pandemic and a number of other factors, she se led comfortably into a small storefront instead. Going forward, she aims to continue serving nourishing Indian fare made with love all over the St. Louis area.

Maaji’s Street Kitchen, 3324 N. Lindbergh Blvd., St. Ann, Missouri, 314-395-7173, maajisstreetkitchen.com

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STORY AND PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Salve Osteria

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

At Menya Rui, the dining experience is a bit different from anything else you’ll find in St. Louis. Guests are greeted at the door and instructed to grab a chair wherever one is available in the 24-seat restaurant or to wait until one opens up in the event of a full house, which is fairly common during peak dinner hours due to the handmade noodle shop’s booming popularity. In these close-knit quarters, orders – which are beamed straight to the open kitchen via a QR code menu – summon plates of crispy karaage, cool dressed cucumbers and bowls of expertly constructed, Japanese-style noodles within mere minutes.

The runaway success of the casual eatery is no surprise given chef-owner Steven Pursley’s dedication to the cra . Pursley launched popup Ramen x Rui in 2018 a er spending three years honing his skills at ramen shops in his mother’s home prefecture, Okinawa, as well as in mainland Japan. With Menya Rui, which gets its name from the Japanese word for noodle shop, “menya,” as well as Pursley’s Japanese middle name, Rui, the rising star showcases the evolution of his culinary experiences with his first brick-and-mortar business – and the

results are nothing short of amazing.

Although the restaurant’s service style and rustic environs mimic those of its high-quality, convenience-driven Japanese counterparts, the offerings within take on a unique character all their own. Each comforting bowl of handcra ed fare carries the influence of its predecessors in a new, inspired context – full of meticulously balanced flavors that are heavily refined yet ideal for everyday consumption.

Menya Rui features three types of noodle categories: ramen, tsukemen (dipping noodles) and mazemen (brothless noodles). Each individual dish is made up of multiple layered components, including tare (concentrated base seasoning), broth, aromatic oils, handmade noodles and toppings. The careful and consistent a ention to detail that goes into creating each harmonious bowl makes the humble noodle shop worth visiting again and again.

Menya Rui, 3453 Hampton Ave., Lindenwood Park, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-601-3524, facebook.com/menyaruistl

STORY AND PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

Evolution is the heart and soul of Salve Osteria. Not only is the menu hyperseasonal and constantly changing, but also the dishes themselves riff on popular classics – think grilled cabbage in place of romaine le uce in a Caesar salad or a cannoli-inspired cheesecake for dessert. And don’t forget the transformation of the space itself, which formerly housed the beloved Cafe Natasha. Led by partners Natasha Bahrami, Michael Fricker and chef Ma Wynn, Salve Osteria seeks to honor the café’s legacy while also stepping out of its shadows to claim its own identity.

Since opening in May, Salve has quickly gained popularity for its Mediterranean-inspired dishes. If the spot already has an iconic dish, it’s definitely the Salve Caesar (grilled cabbage, miso bagna cauda, scallions and Parmesan). Chef Ma Wynn felt obligated to offer a Caesar salad but wanted to push it in a new direction and highlight cabbage – a vegetable he considers underrated. The bacon fat carrots, with mustard, shallots, bacon and blue cheese crema, are another one of the spot’s most popular dishes.

Guests can expect these signatures to remain on the menu, but the rest of the dishes will change as the seasons do. “Ma and the team in the kitchen go weekly to see what the harvest is at the market, and they evolve dishes based on that,” Bahrami says. For example, the grilled watermelon salad evolved into a dish with heirloom tomato and honeydew melon in the summer months. In winter, the restaurant is featuring more root vegetables and squash. For guests, this is part of the experience: Each time they visit Salve, there will likely be something new on the menu to try.

The beverage program at Salve Osteria receives just as much a ention and care as the food. Bahrami, owner of The Gin Room, and

Fricker, owner of Grand Spirits Bo le Co., help guests embrace European drinking culture. “Philosophically, it was important for us to build cocktails that played into our dishes in a couple of different ways, both complementary and then also contrasting the dishes enough to break up some of those flavors,” Fricker says.

One of the team’s favorite cocktails is the Grass is Greener, with StilL 630 Volstead’s Folly gin, genepy, reposado tequila, four types of herbs, lime and cilantro oil. “It has this really beautiful fresh juniper, fresh coriander [and] really bright citrus notes to it,” Fricker says. Guests can also expect Martinis, gin and tonics, Negronis and spritzes with unexpected twists and flavors.

Customized vermouth and sherry pours are another source of innovation. The bar team offers guests varietals that are perfectly paired with dishes to enhance their flavors and elevate the dining experience. Bahrami calls pairing a Manzanilla sherry with the bacon fat carrots “transformative.” “It just makes the flavors explode,” she says. Bahrami, Fricker and the rest of the staff pride themselves on educating diners and making these pairings accessible, informative and delicious.

The knowledgeable staff, seasonal menu and carefully curated beverage program all add up to create a guest experience that feels special but not stuffy. “The servers guide you through the experience and talk you through your dishes, coursing them properly for you,” Bahrami says. “And the dishes are just hi ing your table right as your conversations are shi ing. There’s something magical about being able to curate that experience with guests without having to be an extremely fancy place.”

Salve Osteria, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., Tower Grove East, St. Louis, Missouri, 314-771-3411, salveosteria.com

BEST NEW

RESTAURANT S

Salve Osteria

The Kitchen

WRITTEN BY MARY ANDINO | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN

The sisters at the heart of The Kitchen prepare traditional dishes using recipes passed down from their mother, Tram Nguyen. Since opening the restaurant in 2021, co-owners Mary Nguyen and Kristin Liu have stuck to its fast-casual origins by putting a contemporary spin on panAsian cuisine.

The sisters inherited both their business savvy and front-of-house charm from their mother, who was a Vietnamese immigrant and prolific figure in the Florissant community. Vuong and Tram Nguyen founded Chinese Gourmet in Florissant in 1984, and their daughters say Tram was the kind of person who remembered your order even if you weren’t a regular customer. The sisters’ aunt, Dung Nguyen, who co-owned Bamboo Bistro – a now-shu ered restaurant opened by Tram and managed by Mary for 10 years – is also part of the team at The Kitchen.

When Tram died in March 2020, she had operated Chinese Gourmet for 33 years. The Kitchen, a love story to her legacy, now stands in its place in the same historic building. “People are shocked by how much we’ve changed the place – how the concept is completely different,” Mary says. “But they can still remember the same great food they had years ago – maybe it’s even be er.”

Consistency is a priority for Mary, Liu and Dung, and for chef Tony Le, who has worked with the Nguyen family for 23 years. This dedication to consistent, perfect flavor has helped The Kitchen float to the top of the metro area’s most popular takeout and delivery restaurants.

Another key to success is the balancing act developed by the sister duo over the years.

Mary handles daily operations in the kitchen, the bookkeeping and the business side of things. “Kristin manages everything in the front-of-house,” Mary says. “She goes from taking telephone orders to serving tables – besides the food, the intimate, personal connection has been one of the things people love most about the restaurant. People are so happy to see her.”

The menu is thoughtful and varied; there are options for every dietary preference and need. “If you’re a pescatarian, try the Shaking Salmon,” Liu says. “Meat eater? Try the Beef Potato.” Many customers order classics like the Egg Foo Young – a fried omelet topped with housemade gravy and a side of steamed rice – and the St. Paul Sandwich – a fried egg pa y served on white bread with le uce, tomato, pickles and mayonnaise.

As for the future, the sisters want to expand The Kitchen’s operating hours and tables to host private dinners – potentially in the vacant space at the front of the building. The restaurateurs see Sundays and Mondays as chances to collaborate with other small businesses. “We’ve been working hard to make sure we’re doing our mother proud by hi ing our one-year mark,” Liu says. “We want to walk well before we can run. We want to be sure we’re not spreading ourselves too thin too quickly.”

This focus on intentionality, carried over from when their mother oversaw Chinese Gourmet, will continue to be at the center of The Kitchen experience.

The Kitchen, 14065 New Halls Ferry Road, Florissant, Missouri, 314-831-9292, thekitchenstlouis.com

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STANDLEE | PHOTOS BY MABEL SUEN