May 2011 FEAST Magazine

Page 1

the ultimate locavore ingredient

a local affair

a behind-the-bottle look

cooking with wine

tASting 101

A wineMAkeR’S tALe

Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis

DIVINE LOCAL WINE

feastSTL.com / MAY 2011 / FREE


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MAY 2011


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RIVERCITY.COM

Celebrate by following our tips for hosting your own local wine tasting.


Inspired Food Culture / Saint Louis

new FLAVORS opening up to

MAY 2011 from the staff

| 14 |

feaststl.com

Check out this month’s online content.

| 16 |

from the PUBlIsher

Eat local? Sip local!

| 18 |

68

feast faVes

Our staff and contributors share inspired ideas for tasteful living in St. Louis. colUmNs

| 35 |

my stUff

Pop open a bottle and drink in the vast knowledge of local wine expert Glenn Bardgett.

| 36 |

gadget a-go-go

We put five collapsible colanders to the test.

| 38 |

oN the shelf

New and notable in beer, wine and spirits.

| 40 |

mystery shoPPer

Buy it and try it: quinoa flour.

| 42 |

tech school

Get sizzlin’ in the kitchen with flash frying.

| 46 |

easy eats

60

Impress guests with this easy lemon mousse cake.

| 90 |

PUll UP a chaIr

Dine al fresco in style with the Tolix Café chair. COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Of COnCORd-POACHEd PEARs (PG 77) BY Jennifer Silverberg

A Venerable 80 Vintage

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

9


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Inspired Food Culture

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Magazine Volume 2 / Issue 5 / May 2011 Publisher and Editor Catherine Neville

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Managing Editor Brandi Wills Online Editor Kristin Brashares Art Director Lisa Triefenbach Vice President of Advertising Donna Bischoff Copy Editor Andrea Mongler Proofreader Barbara E. Stefàno Contributing Writers Erin Callier, Russ Carr, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pat Eby Chad Michael George, Erik Jacobs, Jennifer Johnson Angela Ortmann, Ben Poremba, Mark Sanfillipo Barbara E. Stefàno, Matt Sorrell, Michael Sweeney, S.C. Truckey Cassandra Vires Contributing Photographers Geoff Cardin, Gregg Goldman, Wesley Law Tuan Lee, Laura Miller, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg

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Contact Us Feast Media, 14522 S. Outer Forty Road Town & Country, MO 63017 Fax: 314.657.3347 feastSTL.com Advertising Inquiries Susan Eckert, 314.340.8587 ads@feastSTL.com Editorial Comments editor@feastSTL.com

Distribution To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Tom Livingston at tlivingston@stldist.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2011 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. A publication of Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC A Lee Enterprises Company


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13


ONLINE CONTENT

ST L .C O M ONLINE EXCLUSIVES > THIS MONTH’S FEAST > WATCH & LISTEN

> FEAST EVENTS > RECIPES > DIGITAL ARCHIVES

VIDEOS SLIDESHOWS PODCASTS

FEAST’S WEEKLY ENEWSLETTER: Get fresh content every Tuesday, including exclusive recipes by a local pro using pantry staples. Sign up at feastSTL.com.

TRAVELOGUE: Every Friday, photo essays from our globe-trotting contributors dig deep into delicious food cultures. Up in May: KTRS news director Victoria Babu treats you to some of the best eats in Morocco, plus a chicken tajine recipe.

INTERACT with FEAST Connect with us at facebook.com/ feastSTL for daily recipes, cooking demo videos, culinary news and behind-the-scenes photos.

Follow us at twitter.com/feastmag for up-to-the-minute restaurant news, special deals, FEAST events and more.

VIDEO TOUR: Don’t miss our extended coverage of Missouri’s wine country! Embark on an adventure down a picturesque stretch of Highway 94 and drop by wineries with us along the way. We’ll show you some of the must-try bottles and best places to enjoy them. If you’re a newbie to the wine scene, or just want to get the most out of the experience, be sure to check out our Wine Tasting 101 with Noboleis Vineyards & Winery’s winemaker, Brandon Dixon. He takes the intimidation factor out of tasting with a just-have-fun approach.

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MAY 2011

Foodspotting Get ideas on where to dine out with FEAST’s monthly Foodspotting Guide to Inspired Eats at foodspotting.com/ feastmagazine.


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15


FROM THE PUBLISHER

F

or the past decade or so, the trend toward eating locally

produced food has steadily expanded. In fact, it’s becoming so commonplace to source this way that it can be a surprise when nothing on a chef’s menu comes from a local farm.

Enter our May issue, which we’ve dedicated to the local wine industry. Put aside the notion that all local wines are overly sweet or unbalanced. Norton, Chambourcin, Traminette, Chardonel … the names of the grapes that grow well here may not be familiar, so take the time to learn about what makes them unique. There are many high-quality, sophisticated wines made very close to home, and if you’re a wine lover, you owe it to yourself to head out to wine country and taste what’s happening. From carefully tended vineyards to Frenchoak aging, our area’s vintners are creating world-class wines that are being recognized on a national level. When you’re leaning on a winery’s tasting bar, chatting with friends about which bottle to enjoy for the afternoon, it’s easy to forget that before anything else, a vineyard is a farm, and winemakers are farmers. I think that Noboleis Vineyards and Winery owner Bob Nolan summed it up best when he said, “What’s great about this business, but what’s also challenging about this business, is that you’re a farmer, you’re a manufacturer, but you’re also a retailer.” Few industries demand that breadth of knowledge and expertise – luckily, we get to drink in the fruits of the labor of these accomplished winemakers and toast to the industry’s success. Until next time,

Catherine Neville

PS

feaST eVeNTS

Wine Tasting Thu., May 19, 6pm, LoRusso’s Cucina Complimentary, rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food-andwine tasting at LoRusso’s Cucina.

Cooking Class Wed., May 25, 6pm, Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40/person, schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

Get hands-on at our monthly Schnucks class. Learn how to bake, fill and frost the luscious lemon mousse cake on page 46.

Feast Book Club Meet-Up Thu., May 26, 6 to 7pm, Bridge Tap House & Wine Bar

Join us for complimentary hors d’oeuvres, exclusive wine specials and in-depth discussion of this month’s book club selection, Tender, by Nigel Slater. Pick up your copy at Left Bank Books and get 20% off!

2011 LouFest Aug. 27 and 28, Central Field, Forest Park $64 for a two-day pass, loufest.com

This all-ages event features 18 national and local bands on two stages, great local food at the FEAST-sponsored Nosh Pit, cool retail and a greening effort that includes recycling, composting, free valet bike parking and a refillable water station.

Cat’s Picks Wednesdays, 8:35am, The BIG 550 KTRS

Tune in as FEAST publisher Catherine Neville chats with host McGraw Milhaven and gives her weekly picks for the best places to eat and drink in the St. Louis area.

Subscribe to FEAST! Have FEAST delivered straight to your door every month. For $1.99 per month, you may add FEAST to a current or new Sunday PostDispatch subscription. Visit www.stltoday. com/PDFeast or call 888.785.3201 and mention you would like to bundle FEAST with your Sunday Post. feedback?

catherine@feastSTL.com

16

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MAY 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy By Tuan Lee

Home cooks also actively seek out locavore treats and pack farmers’ markets from Ferguson to Edwardsville in search of fresh-from-thefield goodness for their tables, relishing the connection they have with the folks who produced the food. Why is it, then, that this passion for local hasn’t made it to our wine glasses?


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FEAST FAVES / w here we’re dining

Cha Cha Chow chachachow.com

Cha Cha Chow cha-chas from spot to spot throughout the week, tweeting its location to a hungry horde of taco lovers. The brightly painted truck is unmistakable, as are the bright flavors emerging from its service window. Owners Kandace Davis and Linda Jones have designed a menu that allows everything to be cooked on board, so it’s all handmade, hot and fresh. First time doing the Cha Cha? Get a three-taco platter. Three well-spiced tacos are snuggled onto a plate – try the curried sweet potato taco with salsa verde, the yucatan pulled pork taco with poblanos, and (our fave) the beef-short-rib taco with shredded red cabbage and creamy Cha Cha Sauce. burgers are great too: The Philly burger Cha Cha’d Up is given a dry rub before being grilled and then topped with poblano peppers and onions and served with spicy, made-on-the-truck ketchup. Fries are hot and crisp and dusted with Cha Cha Chow’s own spice mix. And to wash it all down? Try a refreshing agua fresca or a vanilla-laced Mexican iced coffee. – C.N. twitter.com/whereschacha chachachow.com

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feastSTL.com

MAY 2011

PHOTOGRAPHy by Geoff Cardin

Cha Cha Chow


FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES / s eCret IngredIent

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Vinō Nadōz Wine Bar 314.726.0400 Richmond heights

Our sense of smell is key to the enjoyment of food and our perception of taste. In the vanilla-poached shrimp dish at the newly opened Vinō Nadōz, vanilla scents sous-vide-cooked shrimp, which are arranged atop a spring veggie couscous that’s accented with cactus flower vinaigrette. The sweet aroma of vanilla is a gentle foil to the vinaigrette’s acidity, making this spring dish a well-conceived example of how scent can play a starring role in the dining experience. – C.N.

16 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights vinonadozwinebar.com

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SPRinG BOWlS | 1 | Pig appetizer bowl, $9.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com | 2 | Kate Spade Market Street rim soup bowls, $21 each; Dillard’s, multiple locations, dillards.com | 3 | Ekobo small serving bowl, $28; Design Within Reach, 44 Maryland Plaza, Central West End, dwr.com

– B.W.

Suntrup

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

19


FEAST FAVES / w here we’re dining

Brunch at café Osage Huge windows stream sunlight into Café Osage at bowood Farms, and a sweet Sunday morning in May is the perfect time to cozy up to brunch at this Central West End destination. Order a Kir Royale and a plate of scones and muffins to share while you consider which dish to pick. Everything looks – and is – good. Greens, Eggs and Ham is a standout with poached eggs perched atop peppery arugula and earthy prosciutto over whole wheat crostini. Looking for something a bit sweet? Try the big, fluffy multigrain pancakes with seasonal fruit compote or Osage Nutty Granola with orange- and honey-infused yogurt. Decadent biscuits and gravy with creamed chicken, corned beef hash topped with poached eggs, or simply eggs with grits and bacon … every plate overflows with hearty, healthy fare that will fortify you for an afternoon of digging in the garden. – C.N. 4605 Olive St., Central West End bowoodfarms.com

Café Osage 314.454.6868

PHOTOGRAPHy by J. Pollack Photography

Central West end

20

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FEAST FAVES / s e C r e t I n g r e d I e n t FEAST FAVES / F O O d stUFF

BULK OLIVES Whether offered on a dinner party’s hors d’oeuvre platter or as a simple snack, nothing beats a bowl of olives. We bring you three stand-outs from local bulk olive bars. – B.W.

rich & meaty

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ILLINOIS: Belleville | Collinsville | Edwardsville | Fairview Heights | 1 | Black Beldi oil-cured black olives, $10.99 per pound; Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation, 143 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, extravirginoo.com | 2 | Sevillane Con Limon green olives in lemon-curry sauce, $10.99 per pound; Whole Foods Market, 1601 S. Brentwood Blvd., Brentwood, wholefoodsmarket.com | 3 | Lombardi olives, $5.99 per pound; DiGregorio’s Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., The Hill, digregoriofoods.com PHOTOGRAPHy By Laura Miller

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21


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feastSTL.com

MAY 2011


FEAST FAVES / w hAT we’re drInkIng

Really Rye Old fashiOned While the Old Fashioned has experienced a number of makeovers in its lifetime, The Royale’s presentation of the classic is respectfully true to form. It features nothing more than the original sugar-bitters-water-whiskeylemon combo dating back to its creation in the late 1800s. What makes this drink stand out, however, is the Bulleit rye. Made with a higher-than-usual 95 percent rye, it blends blissfully with the bitters to produce top notes of cinnamon and clove that slowly give way to the warming sensation of the whiskey. A refreshing and relaxing sipper on a warm St. Louis night. – B.W. 3132 S. Kingshighway, Tower Grove South theroyale.com

Really Rye Old Fashioned By John Fausz & RobeRt GRiFFin, the Royale

Robert Griffin, on how the drink came to be: “John wondered what an Old Fashioned with the Bulleit rye would taste like, to which I answered, ‘Really good, and probably even better if we muddle the lemon peel with the sugar instead of just doing a twist.’ “ Serves | 1 |

PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff Cardin

1 3 dashes 1 2 oz

sugar cube Fee Brothers Old Fashioned Bitters thin-sliced lemon peel splash of water Bulleit rye whiskey

| Preparation | Place sugar cube and generous dashes of bitters in an old-fashioned glass. Rim glass with lemon peel and add to glass with a splash of water. Muddle until sugar is dissolved. Fill glass with ice, and add rye. Stir and serve.

The Royale 314.772.3600 tower grove south

sUGaR seRVeRs | 1 | Stainless steel sugar pot with tongs, $29.95; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable. com | 2 | Mini colorful bowls with tray, $14.95; Pier 1 Imports, multiple locations, pier1.com | 3 | Shell sugar tongs, $2.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com – K.B.

|1|

|2|

|3|

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

23


FEAST FAVES / DESIGN TRENDS WE LOVE

|1|

Bird’s the Word |2|

As spring collections pop up in catalogs and stores, it’s apparent that design houses are atwitter with avian inspiration. The influence of our feathered friends is gracing everything from upholstery and rugs to kitchen and dining wares. Whether you’re partial to the artful patterning of peacock feathers, the exotic silhouette of the parrot or the inquisitive expression of owls, there’s a flock of designs from which to choose. – B.W.

|3|

|4|

|5|

| 1 | Engraved Warbler dishtowel, Windhoek Bird dishtowel and Parrot dishtowel, $18 each; Anthropologie, St. Louis Galleria, Richmond Heights, anthropologie.com | 2 | Owl mug set, $29; vivaterra.com | 3 | Owl butter dish, $16, and Owl measuring cups, $19; westelm.com | 4 | Peacock bowl, $49.95; Crate & Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, crateandbarrel.com | 5 | Edie Rose Home peacock salad plate, $17; Macy’s, multiple locations, macys.com | 6 | Petite parrot glasses, $14 each; Anthropologie

24

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MAY 2011

|6|


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Healthy, B EAUTIFUL SKIN

BioIdentical Hormone Replacement Therapy (BHRT) is now available at St. Louis Skin Solutions with Dr. Amy Miller. Find out how Natural Hormone Replacement can make you feel better, help you obtain healthier skin, and can improve your quality of life. All procedures are supervised by an on-site Board Certified Physician, Amy Miller,, M.D.

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MAY 2011

25


FEAST FAVES / S ecreT ingredienT FEAST FAVES / TH e d i S H

Savory Cake

The Wine Tap pops many corks in downtown Belleville and has a food menu designed to enhance its extensive wine selection. Cheese and wine are a classic match, and when the cheese is mixed with various savory ingredients and made soft and spreadable, you have a perfect wine-friendly snack. Largeenough-to-share portions of three cheesecakes are offered: blue cheese and herb, smoked salmon, and sun-dried tomato. Each flavor marries well with wine, and The Wine Tap’s knowledgeable staff members are happy to help you match these savory cheesecakes – or anything on their vino-friendly menu – with whatever libation you choose. – C.N.

PHOTOGRAPHy By Geoff

Cardin

223 E. Main St., Belleville thewinetapbelleville.com

The Wine Tap 618.239.9463 Belleville

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FEAST FAVES / s hop-o-matIC

Soulard Spice Shop

PHOTOGRAPHy By Laura Miller

SOUlaRd SpIce ShOp

314.783.2100 SouLard

If variety is the spice of life, you haven’t lived until you’ve explored the 400-plus spices at Soulard Spice Shop.

also be used to emulate the flavor of grilling in oven-roasted or broiled foods, when you can’t get them to a live fire.

Third-generation owner Linda Schmitz shakes out about 600 to 800 pounds of spices a week from her iconic establishment. Her grandfather first opened the store a half-block from its current location, selling spices, roasted coffee and house-made sausages. In 1929, the shop moved into its current home and became the first lessee in the Grand Hall at Soulard Market.

Be sure to take the full tour next time you’re in the store. With one side dedicated to spices and the other stocked with kitchen sundries such as Chauvin coffee, bulk tea, sauces and more, it’s easy to become enthralled with one item and miss all the other goodies. “There are people who have been coming in for 20 years and they only shop one side of the store,” says Schmitz.

Soulard Spice Shop is not only a great place to pick up your favorite fall-back spices but also for new mixes to add to your arsenal. Soulard Grill, for example, is a spicy and savory blend, great on both meat and veggies, that enhances the flavor benefits of grilling and is one of the shop’s best sellers. It can

Whether you’re stocking the pantry or expanding your culinary prowess, there is plenty in this shop that will spice things up. – B.W. Soulard Market Grand Hall, Soulard soulardspiceshop.com

FEAST FAVES / w hat we’re drInkIng

MISSOURI ROSÉ WRITTeN By Jennifer Johnson

check it out!

ONLINE Extra

Go to feastStL.com for more rosé picks.

AdAm PuchtA rosÉ, n.v.

Produced from Norton, Missouri’s state grape, this fuller-bodied rosé is fresh and ripe with raspberries and red cherries and finishes with lingering orange peel and spice. Pair with charcuterie, barbecued shrimp and vegetables, or niçoise salad. $12.99 adampuchtawinery.com

AugustA Winery’s LA FLeur sAuvAge, n.v.

A Chambourcin blend, this rosé bursts with fresh strawberry and cranberry aromas, offering a fine balance between acidity and body on the palate with a glazed pineapple edge on the finish. Pair with pancetta-wrapped asparagus or spinach salad with grilled anchovies.

PHOTOGRAPHy By Laura Miller

No longer embarrassed to be seen drinking pink, Americans have embraced rosé as a sophisticated choice, and more Missouri producers are including this typically dry wine style in their portfolios. Rosé is generally produced by crushing red wine grapes to allow juice to briefly extract color and flavor compounds from the skins and then fermenting the juice in stainless steel tanks, as is done for white wine. Rosé styles and colors can vary in depth and body, depending on choice of grapes and length of skin exposure. Rosé wines are released midspring – fresh, bright, juicy and just in time to enjoy chilled during summer months with lighter fare.

$10.26; augustawinery.com

Inspired Food Culture

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“We’re serving up some delicious new styles from Broyhill! VICKY SMITH PRESIDENT

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MAY 2011


FEAST FAVES / w hat we’re buyIng

Wine Accessories

From clever gadgets |1|

you show off at parties to beautifully crafted wares that are part of your home’s design, we’re currently consumed by the fun gear that comes with being a wine lover. – B.W.

|2|

|4|

|3|

|6|

|5| | 1 | Reel wine rack, $100; fluxmateria.com | 2 | Lodge stag corkscrew, $34; iloveuma.com | 3 | Vin Eau carafe, $52; momastore.org | 4 | Forest glasses, $150 for set of six; momastore.org | 5 | A Date With Wine wine stopper, $52; shop.gessato.com | 6 | Wine stopper and pourer set, $30; momastore.org

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

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MAY 2011

33


MY STUFF

Glenn And MArciA BArdGett written by Catherine Neville

How many local wines are on your massive list at Annie Gunn’s? We have 25 to 30 Missouri wines on our list, including port, sherry and ice wine by the glass. This is no longer missionary work. This is business. They have to sell. How often do people order local wines at the restaurant? It tends to run in spurts. Chef Lou [Rook III] and I did a class at Kitchen Conservatory recently and one of the attendees came to Annie Gunn’s and [ordered] all of our Montelle Dry Vignoles, which we had served in the class. What’s the best seller? Adam Puchta Vignoles What do you wish people knew about local wine? That our wines are very highly respected nationally by industry insiders. I always take Missouri wine with me when I travel to wine country anywhere, and it’s always a big hit. How do you describe Missouri wines to the unconverted? Our wines are very much more European in style than New World, so keep tasting. You will find plenty to like. What is it about Norton? One of the great grapes of the 19th century is leading the way in Missouri for complex reds. What’s next for the local wine industry? Missouri wines should have 10 percent of the total wine market in our state very soon. Then we will be looking at 12 percent as our next goal. People buying five million bottles of our wines every year with a $1.6 billion economic impact are just our current numbers. What’s the first wine you remember drinking? Like a lot of baby boomers, it was Mogen David Concord. What’s the most interesting wine you’ve tried? 1823 Madeira – and it was still drinkable, but I kept thinking that Thomas Jefferson was alive when it was harvested. What wine do you wish you could taste? The next one or just maybe more of the last one. What’s your favorite thing about visiting a winery? The smell. I love the combination of oak and wine aromas. My next favorite is the drinking part. What wine will you and Marcia pop open on a weeknight? Like famed Cajun chef Justin Wilson once said, “What kind wine you got?” What’s the most important thing to remember about wine? Wine is very simple. People make it complicated. 34

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MAY 2011

Annie Gunn’s 16806 Chesterfield Airport road, Chesterfield 636.532.3314 anniegunns.com

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Gregg Goldman

Glenn Bardgett is something of a pied piper for the Missouri wine industry, leading wine lovers toward local vintages through his enthusiasm and support. As a long-time member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board, Glenn, along with his wife Marcia, are fixtures on the wineevent scene, chatting and mingling with fellow oenophiles. He’s most often found, however, at Annie Gunn’s in Chesterfield, where he oversees one of the region’s best wine programs.


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Joe the butcher says...

GO GRILL CRAZY!

It’s my favorite time of the year, "Grill Time".

Here are some new grilling ideas to feed the family while enjoying the nice sunny weather. A favorite of the Kenrick’s shopper is our Famous Ozark Grillers. This thinly sliced piece of beef is wrapped like sushi with cheddar cheese and bacon. One bite and you’ll be addicted to this delicious treat. Ozark Grillers are great as a meal or an appetizer. We also make a chicken griller stuffed with hot pepper pperr cheese ch hee eese se e and and n wrapped wra rapp p ed in pp in bacon. baco ba con co n. n. io onal favorite favori fa ori ritte te with wit ith th a twist? twis tw ist? t? Flavored Fllav F avo or re ed d Burgers Bur u g ge er rs s are ar already made into How about a traditional ng gredien ien nts ts mixed mix ixe ed d in in and an nd ready rea re ad dy for ffo or the or th he BBQ. BBQ. Q Varieties Var arie arie ieti ties include: Bacon Bleu tie patties with great ingredients he edda arr, Bacon Ba acon co on Cheddar, Ched Ch Ched dda ar, r, just jus ust Cheddar, Chedd Ch Ched ed e dda dar, ar, and and n Butter Bu uttte er Pat Pat Patties. Pa Pat Cheese, Jalapeno Cheddar, nique iq qu ue e item ite tem em to to BBQ BB BQ Q this thi his summer su umm me err is is Bacon Ba Baco ac co on Wrap Wrap Wr ap Meat Me Another new and unique Loaf. We take a io on per pe er person p rsson pe on meatloaf me ea atl t oa oaf (just (jus (j ustt like lik li ike ke mom mo om m and an nd d grandma gra ran nd dm ma a make) m traditional one portion and wrapped it te e ingredient. in ng gre edi die en nt. nt. t It's Itt''s not not only no only on y affordable, aff ffo orrda abl ble, e, it’s it’ t’s delicious! deli de liciious ou o us! in bacon, our favorite ety ty y of of kabobs, ka abo ob bss, including: incl in clu ud din din ng g:: We also have a variety • Pork or Chicken Sizzlers zz zle ers – h high ig gh quality qua qu allity iitty chicken cch hic icke ken a an and nd o orr p pork orrrk o k on on a sstick ttiick kw with itth o ith our ur special BBQ seasoning • Steak and Potato K Kabob abob ob – ssmall ma mall alll baby bab by bakers bak ba ke errss a and nd d ssteak teak te km medallions, ed ed da allli a lion ion ons, s, sskewered ke k ew We have over 100 varieties of sausages made d right i ht h here iin our sausage kitchen, a large Seafood Selection, and Fresh Cut Steaks. Our butchers can personally help you with whatever you may need, such as a special seasoning, which we can add to your steak at no additional charge. The list of fantastic BBQ ideas goes on and on. The only real way to find what you are looking for is to come into Kenrick’s and take a look around. And, if you don’t know how to cook it, we can help you with that, too.

36

feastSTL.com

MAY 2011

4324 Weber Rd., St. Louis, MO. 314-631-2440


enVirOnMent SHOt by ©iStOCkPHOtO.COM/JObJeCtiFMC

gadget a-go-go

Put to the test

Collapsible

PrODUCt PHOtOS by Laura Miller

Colanders written by Pat Eby

Progressive Collapsible over-the-sink Colander

sur la table Collapsible Mini Colanders

Progressive Collapsible Mesh strainer

Joseph Joseph Flatsheet Folding Colander

Progressive Collapsible Colander

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

PROS

wow. two nonslip arms extend up to 24 inches to nestle this deep 6-quartcapacity colander over the sink for quick wash ups and preps. that’s big enough to hold two big bunches of celery, 2 pounds of carrots or 3 pounds of skinny asparagus spears with room to spare. Drain up to 1 pound of big pasta shapes too. Available in lime green/white or royal blue/white; all parts plastic.

these stylish little gems prance through draining and thoroughly rinsing wax beans, green beans, garbanzos and kidney beans from 14.5-ounce and 16-ounce cans for a colorful three-bean salad. the juices from canned pineapple chunks, bing cherries and mandarin oranges also sail through to concoct a mess-free fruit salad. but these plastic 3½-cup colanders shine when holding pints of fresh blueberries, raspberries and strawberries for inspection and a gentle wash. Snap-on bottom covers prevent drips on the counter too.

though technically not a colander, this collapsible strainer functions better than a colander for special tasks. Folded, it makes sifting through uncooked freekeh to pull out small stones and dirt almost easy. expanded, its fine mesh allows for an easy rinse of tiny grains such as quinoa and millet. Using this tool to drain small cooked pastas such as orzo kept escapees to a minimum. if your cooking style tends toward prepping and cooking in smaller quantities, this plastic strainer with the metal mesh can handle every task a regular colander performs.

Fun, colorful and so easy to snap into place, this oddly square colander functions well for most tasks. brightgreen boston lettuce rinses just so and looks gorgeous surrounded by happy hot pink. Very modern, hip design from the basket shape to the pattern of the holes. it sits on tiny feet but pours and drains hot and cold equally fast. Folds smartly flat and squeezes in a space small enough to hold a thin cutting board. Choose from the five chichi colors of black, red, white, lime and screaming pink.

A workhorse colander, this round baby stands solid and expands to a generous 3-quart capacity. roomy enough to handle a pound or more of snap peas or a jumbo head of cauliflower, it compacts to fit in small spaces easily. the slot and hole design at the bottom promotes a good, fast drain of hot and cold water. easy to pick up; simple to empty. All plastic.

CONS

Pouring cooked penne pasta from the colander into a large bowl took some wrangling. the rectangular shape needs to empty from a corner, and the odd angles made an awkward pour. Several noodles escaped. $19.99; Bed Bath & Beyond, multiple locations, bedbathandbeyond.com

CONS

what’s not to like? $8.79; Kmart, multiple locations, kmart.com

CONS

you’ll want to buy all six happy colors – lime green, sunny yellow, hot purple, bright red, tangerine and turquoise.

if you buy both a colander and a strainer, you’ll have one more gadget to store.

Cooked foods needed a nudge from a spoon to plop into serving bowls past the square corners.

$5; Sur La Table, Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, surlatable.com

$12.95; Cornucopia, 107 N. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, kitchencopia.com

$20.99; Terra, 11769 Manchester Road, Des Peres, terrastl.com

CONS

CONS

Chec

k out

42!

W hat to l ook For : draining: Most collapsibles have holes at the bottom only and not in the sides, so watch for a reasonable hole pattern to drain water away from food quickly. the exception and the holiest are the silicone varieties. Check that the colander sits slightly above the draining surface, not flat on it. Materials: Look for strong, heat-resistant materials for smooth transitions from cold-water prep chores to steamyhot finishing work. Plastics push down beautifully when you

expand and contract these colanders. Stabilizing collars, feet and handles made of rigid plastic or stainless steel provide stability. Silicone colanders immerse in boiling water for blanching, but you’ll pay a higher price for the slam dunk. safety Features: Opened, the colander should be solid and hunky. Check for a sturdy base and easy-to-grab sides. nonslip coatings on handles, pull-outs, grips and bases rate an A-plus for keeping cooks safe.

page

Tryouttheseversatile kitchenhelperswhenprepping produce.Tomakepepperspop,check outthismonth’s TechSchoolcolumn. Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

37


ON The SheLf

BEER wrITTeN by Michael Sweeney

SPIRITS

When not using his spare time to make fun of people who write blogs, Michael Sweeney writes the beer blog STLHops. com. The irony is lost on him.

Award-winning sommelier and mixologist Chad Michael George is founder of Proof Academy, which covers everything from wine and cocktail list consulting to spirits and mixology education.

Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.’s Winged Nut StYle: American Brown Ale (6.5% abv) available at: Urban Chestnut Brewing Co., 3229 Washington Ave., Midtown, urbanchestnut.com; $5.50 (20-oz draught) PairingS: Asiago • Grilled pork steak

urban Chestnut's revolution series takes traditional brewing styles and turns them on their ears. winged Nut, a standout in the revolution series, uses a bavarian weissbier yeast to create a banana aroma that works with the nuttiness of the chestnuts for a brown ale like no other.

Saint Louis Brewery’s Schlafly American IPA StYle: American IPA (7.2% abv) available at: Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com; $9.99 (six-pack, 12-oz bottles) PairingS: Bánh mì • Arugula salad

Introduced at the 2009 Schlafly hop in the City festival, the american IPa has become one of the most sought-after beers in St. Louis. This may-to-august seasonal brew bursts with citrusy aromatic hops (thanks to the Simcoe, Centennial and amarillo hops used in dryhopping) but provides enough malt to give it just enough balance.

ferguson Brewing Co.’s St. Louis Pale Ale StYle: American Pale Ale (4.9% abv) available at: Ferguson Brewing Co., 418 S. Florissant Road, Ferguson, fergusonbrewing. com; $4 (16-oz draught) PairingS: Feta • Bulgogi

what makes an american pale ale american? The hops. american hops tend to be more floral and citrusy, while noble or european hops tend to be more earthy and grassy. Ferguson’s St. Louis Pale ale does a great job of providing just enough of that citrusy hop bitterness but not so much that the beer is too bitter.

wrITTeN by Chad Michael George

Spirits of St. Louis J.J. Neukomm Whiskey Provenance: St. Louis (40% abv) available at: Lukas Liquor Superstore, 15921 Manchester Road, Ellisville, lukasliquorstl.com; $39.99

Steve Neukomm at Square one brewery and Distillery ages his whiskey in small oak casks to expedite the oak influence on the spirit. with a blend of toasted and cherry-wood-smoked malts, the unique smoky taste is more akin to Scotch whisky than our american offerings. The result is a hybrid of the two styles. enjoy it neat or with a few ice cubes to really see the depth and complexity.

360 Vodka Provenance: Weston, Mo. (40% abv) available at: The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, winemerchantltd.com; $29.99

360 Vodka is a truly eco-friendly vodka from our friends at mcCormick Distilling in weston, mo. It is distilled four times and then filtered five times, including once through granulated coconut shells. The vodka is exactly what vodka should be. It is smooth and flavorless with no off-putting flavors or aromas. 360 uses recycled glass and paper for the packaging and shipping materials as well. The company also encourages returning bottles to the distillery for reuse.

Spirits of St. Louis Regatta Bay Gin Provenance: St. Louis (40% abv) available at: The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com; $26.99

Neukomm’s gin would most likely not fall into the London dry category, as the juniper (think Christmas tree) is not the dominant botanical. The highlight of this gin is strong citrus notes, and the inclusion of hops creates an interesting bitter quality. It has a smooth mouth feel, and the fact that it is 40 percent abv means it is a littler easier on the liver than some of the higher-proof gins we are accustomed to drinking.

OUR TOP PICKS FOR MAY

PourINg wINe PhoTograPhy by ©ISToCkPhoTo.Com/LaurI PaTTerSoN

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WINE written by Angela Ortmann

STLwinegirl Angela Ortmann shares her passion for all things epicurean through her event and consultation business, which is dedicated to enhancing your food and wine experience.

We have an impressive selection ofthe bestwines fromyour Missouri & Illinoiswineries including MountPleasant, Stone Hill, St.James,Hermannhof,Illinois Cellars,Augusta and Montelle Wines. We offer discounts on case purchases aswell as acceptyourspecial orders All atsignature Shop ’n Save Prices!

2008 J.L. Chave Crozes-Hermitage Silene

4

$

Provenance: Northern Rhône, France available at: The Wine Chateau, 90 Clarkson Wilson Center, Chesterfield, thewinechateau.com; $26 Food Pairings: Peking duck • Grilled hamburgers • Wild mushroom pasta

Dispelling the myth that Missouri whites are sweet, this crisp Vidal blanc from the Augusta area gives clean notes of citrus and melon. Light and smooth with hints of floral and newly cut herbs. Stainless steel fermentation enlivens the acidity, and the long finish leaves you reaching for more.

Montelle Wine

750 ml. btl. River Valley Red, White or Blush or Seyval Blanc

578 each

Stone Hill Wine

750 ml. btl. Pink Catawba, Rhine, Rose, Concord or Vidal

48

each

Augusta Wine

$ Provenance: Missouri available at: Chandler Hill Vineyards, 596 Defiance Road, Defiance, chandlerhillvineyards.com; $18.99 Food Pairings: Asparagus salad • Shrimp cocktail • Spring rolls

6

$

each

J.L. Chave's winemaker is married to a native St. Louisan, bringing him and his wines to the area regularly. this 100 percent Syrah is rich with vibrancy and bursting with plum and currant. in true rhône form, earthiness is brought forth through herbal undertones and trace minerality.

2008 Chandler Hill Lone Oak Vidal Blanc

98

750 ml. btl. Selected Varieties

528

$

each

St. James

750 ml. btl. Velvet Red or White, Pink Catawba or Country Red or White

Prices Good Thru May 28th, 2011 at Missouri Stores Only

2006 Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon Provenance: Santa Ynez Valley, Calif. available at: Dierbergs Markets, multiple locations, dierbergs.com; $44.99 Food Pairings: New York strip steak • Bittersweet chocolate • Beef enchiladas

Members of St. Louis' Dierberg family began producing wine at Hermannhof Vineyards in Hermann and expanded to California in the 1990s, where they made a name for themselves on the Central Coast of California, with both Dierberg and Star Lane vineyards. Layered flavors of black cherry, cassis, chocolate, coffee and mint make up this complex and exciting Cab.

Join Angela Ortmann and FEAST publisher Catherine Neville for a happy hour wine tasting at 6pm on Thu., May 19, at LoRusso's Cucina. RSVP to rsvp@stlwinegirl.com.

Good things are just around the corner Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

39


mySTery Shopper

Breakfast Cookies By Linda danieLs, Free range Cookies

Linda Daniels likens these gluten-free treats to oatmeal cookies. Yield | 20 cookies | ½ cup ½ cup ¾ cup 1/3 cup 2 tsp ½ cup ¼ cup ½ tsp ½ tsp ¼ tsp ¼ tsp 1 pinch 1 pinch 1¼ cups

quinoa flour ripe banana, mashed brown sugar, packed canola oil pure vanilla extract brown rice flour mesquite flour baking powder baking soda salt cinnamon ground ginger cardamom quinoa flakes

| Preparation | Toast the quinoa flour by spreading

Blend banana, brown sugar, canola oil and vanilla extract in a large bowl. in a separate bowl, combine quinoa flour, brown rice flour, mesquite flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger and cardamom. add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and mix by hand. Fold in quinoa flakes. Let dough chill in fridge for at least an hour. Preheat oven to 325ºF. Form dough into balls, about 1½ Tbsp each, and drop onto parchment-lined cookie sheets. Press each cookie once with tines of a fork to flatten slightly. Bake 10 to 12 minutes.

meeT: QUINOA FLOUR It looks like grain, but it’s not. It’s closely related to spinach and beets but resembles neither. And it’s not pronounced the way you’d think it should be. But once ground into flour, quinoa seeds have a transformative effect on cooking, particularly for gluten-free foodies.

Stop by 40

feastSTL.com

wriTTen By russ Carr

What is it?

hoW do i Use it?

Quinoa (keen-wah) flour is simply raw quinoa seeds ground into powder. But it’s those seeds’ incredible nutritional value that makes the flour special. Quinoa is high in fiber and minerals and is considered a complete protein because it contains all the essential amino acids necessary to humans.

Quinoa flour is a bit coarser than wheat flour and has a nutty flavor. it can be substituted for wheat (or other gluten flours) in most recipes but not always in a 1-to-1 ratio. if your diet isn’t restricted, you can safely swap out half the wheat flour in most recipes; more than this may have an adverse effect on the recipe. gluten-free cooks can add quinoa flour to other nongrain flours (such as soy or buckwheat) to lighten the consistency of their recipes. Beyond baking, quinoa flour can be used in place of wheat flour for breading, thickening soups or even coating baking pans – anywhere you’d like a little surreptitious nutritional boost.

But as if good nutritional value weren’t enough, quinoa is very easy to digest and is gluten-free. This makes it an ideal food for vegetarians, vegans and those on gluten-free or restricted diets. substituting quinoa flour for wheat flour (or using it to supplement wheat flour) provides a ready source of protein that’s literally easy to swallow.

to pick up more delicious recipes featuring quinoa flour.Visit straubs.com for information on its four locations. MAY 2011

PHoTograPHy By Jennifer Silverberg

it evenly on parchment-lined baking sheets and baking for about an hour at 225ºF. Let flour cool completely before storing in airtight bags.

check it out!

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äèä1ééÜ1æ))) ßää1Ü)é1èçêâ Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

41


TECH SCHOOL

FlAsh FrYing STORY AND RECIPE BY Cassandra Vires

Many culinary terms are used with little regard for what they actually mean. People say “sauté” when they mean “pan-fry” or “bake” when they mean “roast.” And when it comes to fried food, there’s a big difference between the terms deep fry and flash fry, although most people are unaware of how the techniques differ. Believe it or not, flash frying is healthier than deep-frying. Deep-fried foods are fully submerged in oil for five to 15 minutes, allowing the oil to seep in and saturate the food with fat. Flash fried food is submerged for about one to five minutes in oil so hot that the outside of the food is immediately seared, keeping the oil from penetrating farther. And because the extremely hot oil first sears the food, it not only keeps the oil out but also holds the flavor in.

Flash frying isn’t difficult, but it carries with it a certain amount of risk and shouldn’t be done without first learning the proper technique. When flash frying, oil must be heated to an extremely high temperature, 400°F, and then held there during cooking. Most oils, such as vegetable shortening and olive oil, start to smoke at around 350°F, some at even lower temperatures. Flash points – points at which the oil will ignite – are at much higher temperatures, and fire is a danger if you’re not careful. The best oils to use at high temperatures are grapeseed, avocado and almond. These can be expensive but are easily saved and reused. It’s also important to be careful when introducing liquid to hot oil. Foods naturally contain moisture, and those higher in moisture can cause the oil to splatter. Make sure to dry the surface of foods you plan to fry. Splattering will happen regardless of what is being fried, so work in small batches in a pan with high sides filled no more than halfway. If the pan is too full, it could bubble over, potentially igniting a kitchen fire or causing burns to the cook. Flash frying will become a go-to technique again once you get the hang of it. Foods cooked this way emerge from the oil with a crisp exterior and a tender interior full of irresistible flavor. Chef Cassandra Vires received her culinary training in Houston, Texas, and has a knack for reimagining classic dishes.

COOKING VIDEO!

Fry in a flash with Chef Cassy in this month’s step-by-step video. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

42

feastSTL.com

MAY 2011

Flash Fried Shishito Peppers with Saffron Aïoli These delicately flavored peppers are perfect for flash frying because of their thin skins and mild heat. Their beautiful green color is amplified when they are cooked correctly. As with most Japanese peppers, the mild heat contributes to balanced flavor instead of mouth-blistering spice. serves | 6 | Saffron aïoli

1 pinch 2 tsp 1 2 tsp 1 clove 1 pinch 1 cup

saffron threads hot water egg yolk lemon juice garlic, minced cayenne olive oil

flaSh fried PePPerS

1 lb 6 cups 1

shishito peppers grape seed oil sea salt lemon, cut into wedges

| Preparation – Saffron Aïoli | Gently crush saffron threads with a mortar and pestle or between your fingers. Pour hot water over the crushed threads and let steep for 1 minute. | 1 | In a medium glass bowl, combine egg yolk, lemon juice, minced garlic, cayenne and saffron water. Whisk together. While whisking, slowly pour oil into the egg mixture. Continue to whisk until the mixture is smooth and combined. Set aside until ready to serve.

| Preparation – Flash Fried Peppers | Place peppers in a colander and rinse under cold water. Set on paper towels to thoroughly dry. Make sure there is no water left on the peppers before frying to prevent the oil from splashing.

In a large pot, heat oil over high heat. | 2 | Using a deep-fry thermometer, continue to heat and adjust the temperature until it holds at 400°F. | 3 | Using a long-handled mesh spoon, gently place a small number of peppers in the oil and cook for 45 seconds to 1 minute, until slightly blistered. Remove and place on a paper-towel-lined baking sheet and season with sea salt. Continue to fry the peppers in batches, allowing the oil to return to temperature each time. The peppers can be kept warm in the oven if necessary. Serve with lemon wedges, additional sea salt and saffron aïoli.


lШªˆ« v††¬

vƒˆ‡ yÐ…L) ) Check Out Schnucks Cooks Videos For Tips & Techniques!

Our Schnucks Cooks how-to videos are full of tips and techniques from our team of culinary experts. If you want to learn more, check out our video library at www.schnuckscooks.com. You’ll also find a variety of Schnucks Cooks recipes for quick, easy and affordable meal solutions. At our in-store Schnucks Cooks stations, our experienced Cooking Coaches will demonstrate how to cook our featured recipes and sample them for you to try! You’ll find all the ingredients and cooking equipment for each recipe next to our Schnucks Cooks station in select stores.

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Preparing Angel Food Cake with Strawberries & Cream What makes angel food cake so light, white and delicious? There’s no baking powder or baking soda – the leavening comes completely from the air trapped in the batter’s beaten egg whites that gets hot and expands in the oven.

|1|

Æ)

For the cake to rise properly, all equipment needs to be grease free. Clean with white vinegar.

À) The proper folding Ã)the eggIt is white important to beat technique is important. mixture until soft peaks form on beaters. Then, add sugar until stiff peaks form.

You need to mix, without deflating the batter.

½)cake,Toplacecoolittheupside angel food down on

a metal funnel or glass bottle.

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

|2|

Visit www.schnuckscooks.com for Schnucks Cooks videos, recipes, locations, our monthly newsletter and more!

©2011 Schnucks

|3| Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

43


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• Live Bands Fri., Sat., Sun. • Fine Wines from Sweet to Dry • Selection of Specialty Beers • Full Kitchen featuring Appetizers & Hot Sandwiches • Available for Small Private Parties

Don’t miss your chance to interact directly with these professionals and mingle with your fellow food lovers.

Cooking Class

Hours: Open Daily 11:00 a.m. • Closed on Tuesday

Wed., May 25, 6pm Schnucks Cooks Cooking School $40/person schnuckscooks.com or 314.909.1704

2815 N. Hwy 51, Perryville, MO 63775

(573) 547-6968

www.thebarrenswinery.com

NAOT SPRING STYLES

Get hands-on at our monthly Schnucks class. Learn how to bake, fill and frost the luscious lemon mousse cake on page 46.

SPRING SAVINGS EVENT

Huge Selection Now In Stock

40% OFF

REGULAR PRICED GOLD PROTECTION PACKAGE

Free in Home Estimates.

Wine Tasting

×_(a E&((f* Cf\4f(ó ) (af â*^a^0—[â (af P» B%''d* ß*.'dh'^.0 Û1('d3 _1 (af Ä/*\h ) À/&é\\ aš$f Àfš*ß*/&1h -*/(fk(_/1 š1h -fškf /d 4_1hÝ

Thu., May 19, 6pm LoRusso’s Cucina Complimentary rsvp@stlwinegirl.com

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Join columnist Angela Ortmann for a food-and-wine tasting at LoRusso’s Cucina.

of St. Louis

1.877.643.5638 314-646-0700 618-310-3942

CAKE PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

www.mygutterhelmet.com

It's totally crawsome.

Crawfish Boil MAY 14TH - 1 PM - 6PM Featuring Cajun Music by ZYDECO CRAWDADDY'S Crawfish (freshly flown in from Louisiana) by the pound. For the less brave -Shrimp. New Belgium Brewing Fat Tire, & Beer Ranger specials all day.

Hwy61Roadhouse.com

314-968-0061 34 Old Orchard South, Webster Groves, MO

Ask the bartender... 85 Lashes Rum 2011 Silver Medal Winner at The San Francisco World Spirits Competition! Shelly at The Stable reccomends 85 Lashes Zombie 1 1/2 ounces of 85 Lashes Dark Rum 1/2 ounce peach schnapps 1 oz pineapple 1 oz orange juice Shake and pour into Collins Glass 1 oz of 85 Lashes Crystal rum floated on top

Tues. - Sun. Lunch & Dinner

1821 Cherokee St. 314-771-8500

www.amalgamatedbrewing.com 44

feastSTL.com

MAY 2011


Wine Pairing

La Crema Sonoma Coast Chardonnay 2009

Winemaker’s Notes:

The 2009 vintage of Sonoma Coast Chardonnay opens with an intriguing interplay of lively citrus and subtle toasted oak, laced with just a kiss of butterscotch. The palate is round and nutty, with flavors of yellow apple and orange adding lushness, while well-balanced acidity creates a lovely vibrancy. Hints of vanilla and caramel add richness and texture to a long, fresh finish.

Stone Brewing Co. Arrogant Bastard Ale 22 oz.

This is an aggressive ale. You probably won't like it. It is quite doubtful that you have the taste or sophistication to be able to appreciate an ale of this quality and depth. We would suggest that you stick to safer and more familiar territory-maybe something with a multi-million dollar ad campaign aimed at convincing you it's made in a little brewery, or one that implies that their tasteless fizzy yellow beverage will give you more sex appeal. Perhaps you think multi-million dollar ad campaigns make things taste better. Perhaps you're mouthing your words as you read this.

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Fine Dining

Just as there are Standards in Music, there are Restaurants that are Distinct and Respected. p Andria’s restaurant has been receiving accolades and serving loyal customers for over 30 years. They offer the classic steakhouse menu, but with their exclusive touch: that defining brush-on steak sauce. Just picture their 24-ounce sirloin strip, charred to perfection. Complement your dinner selection with their respectable wine and ale list. Andria’s, classic, but unpretentious. It’s quality at a good value, and that’s a standard to enjoy.

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45


EASY EATS

A SweeT-TArT TreAT

ReCIPe bY Gabrielle DeMichele

If you learn only one new recipe in the month of May, it should be for a beautifully presented cake with a clean, light taste. This particular recipe is great for Mother’s Day, a birthday, or as a sweet ending to a quick weeknight meal. Sweet-tart lemon curd accentuates the subtle lemon flavor of the cake and, when added to the whipped cream to form the mousse, creates an ethereal filling. Add a few edible flowers for a beautiful presentation (and plenty of complements to you).

Serves | 12 | Cake

7 ¾ tsp 1½ cups 2 cups 2½ tsp ¾ tsp ½ cup ¾ cup 1 Tbsp 1 tsp

|1|

Filling

4 ½ cup ½ cup 4 Tbsp 1 Tbsp 2 cups 6 Tbsp

garnishes

stiff and glossy peaks form. Set aside.

large eggs, separated cream of tartar sugar, divided unbleached all-purpose flour baking powder salt vegetable oil 2 percent milk lemon zest good-quality vanilla extract

Whisk together remaining sugar, flour, baking powder and salt. In a separate bowl, beat egg yolks, oil, milk, lemon zest and vanilla extract until pale yellow. | 1 | Gradually add dry ingredients and mix on low speed until fully incorporated, about 2 minutes.

large eggs sugar freshly squeezed lemon juice butter, cut into 4 pieces lemon zest heavy cream powdered sugar

| 2 | Gently fold in whipped egg whites, using a wire whisk or wide spatula. Pour the batter into an ungreased tube pan and bake for an hour. The cake is done when it springs back when pressed gently in the middle or when a long wooden skewer inserted into the cake comes out dry.

edible flowers fresh mint leaves

| Preparation – Cake | Preheat oven to

|2|

350ºF. In a large grease-free bowl, beat egg whites until foamy. Whisk together cream of tartar and ½ cup sugar and slowly add to egg whites, beating until

|

COOK’S

Remove from the oven and cool upside down on top of a thin-neck bottle. When completely cooled, run a thinbladed knife around the circumference of the pan to release the cake.

| Preparation – Filling | In a medium

to fold the beaten egg whites into the batter, slowly dip into the middle of the batter, scraping the bottom as you bring the utensil up and over the side of the bowl. Turn the

PHOTOGRAPHY bY Jennifer Silverberg

ow s t h S ge s 6- cka t ju Pa t a 00! ar 4. st $8

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MAY 2011

In a large cold bowl, whip heavy cream, gradually adding powdered sugar until peaks form; careful not to overwhip it. When curd is cool, gently fold into the whipped cream until it is incorporated. be careful not to deflate the cream.

| To Assemble | Cut cake in half horizontally, and scoop out some of the cake in the middle, about 1 inch deep. | 3 | Fill with lemon mousse and replace the top half of the cake. Frost the top and sides of the cake with the remaining lemon mousse. Refrigerate for 4 hours or overnight. Garnish with edible flowers and fresh mint leaves.

|

Cooling the tube Cake upside down will help it keep its loft and not deflate. Make sure you have tested the pan on the neck of the bottle to be sure it fits before you fill the pan.

|3|

saucepan, whisk together eggs, sugar and lemon juice. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly until thickened, and then simmer gently for a few minutes more. Add butter and stir with spatula until butter is melted, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan. Stir in lemon zest. Place plastic wrap on top of curd and cool to room temperature.

bowl one-quarter turn and continue the same motion until the batter is incorporated. in a rush? Use a mix for lemon or lemon angel food cake and add lemon zest to it. Jarred lemon curd, however, is rarely a good substitute. The curd can be made a day or so in advance to avoid the stress of last-minute preparation.


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YOU CAN FEEL IT Inspired Food Culture

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LOCAL tastes OUR REGION’S wINES aRE cOmpEllINGly dIvERSE in style and, although they’ve gained a lot of national recognition in recent years, they are still making inroads with many local wine lovers. next time you’re planning a gathering, consider hosting a local wine tasting as a unique way to entertain your oenophile friends. wines made from the varietals that grow well here are an interesting alternative to mainstream varieties. Follow our tips to set up a professionallevel blind tasting, then break out the food pairings for an experience your guests will enjoy, learn from and remember.

written by Jennifer Johnson

|

FOOD PAirinGS by Mark Sanfillipo AnD Ben Poremba

|

PhOtOGrAPhy by Wesley Law

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

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start with a sip DeciDe What to taste. Choose one grape variety and taste examples from different winemakers (varietal tasting), or choose a specific type of wine and taste several vintages (horizontal tasting). Select no more than four or five wines and consider having your guests bring a wine to taste with information to share about the producer and wine-making style. Gather Your instruments. Use wine glasses, preferably crystal, with fairly large bowls to give the wine room to move when swirling. Make sure the lighting is good and use a white tablecloth or give each guest a piece of white copy paper to hold behind each glass to illuminate the wines’ color. Line glasses in front of each guest’s setting, with a glass of ice water and a pen and paper for note taking.

much as possible. Also, prepare your palate to taste by avoiding full-flavored foods made with ingredients such as garlic, which can vastly alter your tasting experience. Offer mild cheeses and unflavored crackers to clear the palate before and while tasting. hiDe anD chill the GooDs. Brown-bag the wines or conceal their labels with foil; the power of marketing is undeniable, and it’s best to taste wines “blindly.” Chill white wines to 50 degrees; any cooler and the wines close up and fail to release aromas. Red wines should be chilled to 60 degrees or so; any warmer and their higher alcohol levels can hinder the tasting experience. Pour. A 2-ounce pour of each wine is adequate; enjoy the rest later. look at the Wine. Examine the color against a white background. Does your white wine have hints of green or a deep, golden color? These can be clues that the wine comes from a colder climate or has been aged in oak, respectively. Does the color in your red wine reach the rim of the liquid? Color tends to precipitate out of older reds, while younger ones display even color to the liquid’s rim.

neutralize. Air fresheners, perfume, heavy cooking smells and scented dishwashing detergent interfere with discerning what you smell in wine, so eliminate these as

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%MO 2011 MAY %YEAR

sWirl anD sniff. Release the aromatic volatiles in the wine by swirling, and then take a long, deep sniff, and don’t be afraid to stick your nose in the glass. Your first smell is your best, and by your second sniff, you perceive only 75 percent of what you smelled in the first. Think about what fruit aromas you smell. Most white wines have aromas of citrus or apple or other light-colored fruits. Red wines tend to exhibit aromas of dark fruit and berries, such as cherries, plums and currants. Are there any other aromas, such as floral notes, earth and spice? These can indicate grape variety and/or wine-making style.

taste, sWish anD slurP. Move the wine around in your mouth to warm it up and coat the palate, and then draw a little air into your mouth before you swallow (or spit), as though you are slurping soup, to further maximize the aromas released. Does what you taste match what you smell? Does the wine feel heavy on the palate? If so, it is likely higher in alcohol. Does the wine make your mouth water? That means it is acidic. Is there a textural drying nature to the wine? If so, you’re tasting tannins that come from the grape’s skin. Is the wine balanced or not, meaning do any of the components of the wine stand out? Is the wine too acidic or overpowered by alcohol? Is the wine complex, meaning do you taste an intermingled and pleasant array of flavors each time you taste it? Then consider a wine’s finish. Does the wine’s flavor linger in the mouth long after it has been tasted or swallowed? A great rule of thumb is, the longer the linger, the better the wine. sPit. It is appropriate to spit. Spitting reduces your alcohol intake, keeping your senses clear to evaluate the


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wine. An opaque plastic cup for each guest and a dump bucket for the table are ideal. If you’re uncomfortable with the idea of spitting, skip it. REVEAL AND DISCUSS. Now, unveil the wine you just tasted. Be sure to remind guests to save some wine in each glass to compare with others in the lineup. Once you’ve evaluated the wines objectively as a group, talk about what you like subjectively about the wines. Some guests, for instance, might enjoy a more full-bodied, spicy red, while others favor a nice, crisp, acidic white. Conversation helps wine lovers better realize what their preferences are, which is all that matters ultimately. PAIR THE WINE WITH FOOD. Once you’ve tasted the wines, serve the food and taste the wines in conjunction with the dishes. Talk about which wines taste better or worse paired with a particular dish, and which foods taste better or worse with the wines. Be sure to taste the food pairings before tasting with the wine to become familiar with their fundamental flavors.

Also, coming soon, visit our new website at www.robinsnestonthekatytrail.com And be our friend on Facebook!

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TASTING 101 VIDEO!

Noboleis Vineyard & Winery’s winemaker, Brandon Dixon, demystifies the tastingroom experience in this on-location video. Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

617 .S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 63301 www.diolivas.com Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

51


then pair with food On a gOrgeOus st. LOuis spring day, Jennifer Johnson led the folks from Salume Beddu – Mark Sanfillipo and Ben Poremba – as well as guests Angela Giancola and Brian Clore through a pairing that matched local wines with the cured meats of Salume Beddu, a St. Louis company specializing in artisan cured meats.

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tastinG oF salume Beddu salami paiRed with stone hill wineRy’s chaRdonel, 2008 Chardonel, a hybrid grape of Chardonnay, is quite comparable to its fruitdriven parent in its diverse wine-making styles. Stone Hill’s moderately oaked, somewhat fullbodied Chardonel offers a slightly softened citrustropical fruit profile, with added fig and toasty notes on the palate and a creamy mouth feel. Its medium-acidity, fairly rich, slightly smoky profile delightfully pairs with Salume Beddu’s delicate yet purposefully flavored salamis, emphasizing aromatic fennel notes in the finocchiona, a coriander smokiness in the Calabrese and an elegant leanness in the Veneto.

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Roasted Guanciale with FResh GRapes paiRed with les BouRGeois BRut, nV Produced in the labor-intensive méthode champenoise of France’s Champagne region, this brut is made from Vidal Blanc, a French hybrid grape. Exhibiting pleasant citrus aromas, it has a slight nuttiness and toasted bread notes with a lively finish. A consummate complement to food, this dry sparkling wine ever so slightly pardons the succulence of the guanciale – a leaner bacon made from hog’s jowl – to enhance its nuanced pepper and fresh herb seasonings, while the richness of the pork softens the wine’s crisp edges.

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

53


Salame Cotto CanapéS with DolCe-piCCante (SpiCy fig barbeCue glaze) paireD with blumenhof winery’S rayon D’or, 2009 Rayon d’Or is a French hybrid rarely seen in Missouri but still grown in France, and Blumenhof’s Rayon d’Or offers a nice streak of green apple with a hint of orange blossom followed by grapefruit and pineapple flavors. The finish is crisp and slightly sweet. The full-bodied yet refreshing nature of this wine complements the fairly mild, moderately spiced salame cotto – which can be described as a rustic bologna – with its ability to call attention to this meat’s melt-in-your-mouth texture and add a roasted element to the coriander seasoning.

54

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>1df+‚f)Y‚/ d3+d/+‚^34d3+ cd‚+)/^3b <`d p‚•)Y2)- h2+2€3 @d')d ‡Q3W x, 23W 2V "0W.YW3, ALxsxF. 0W.,x*0x3,.E $0xNx <W.,x*0x3,o ^xLXQF. "2VVWW b2*.Wo \*YQx32F. 80x,,20Qxo :,0x,,23F. "xV%o 20 8SW d0QLL x, 8SW <Q,sm"x0L,23o :,k \2*Q.k $ 120,Q23 2V ,SW 102YWWX. vQLL U2 ,2 ,SW "Lxu,23 "W3,*0u f2*3Xx,Q23o x 323m102VQ, ,Sx, .*1120,. "Lxu,23t. SQ.,20uo x0,.o 1x0N. x3X .*.,xQ3xwQLQ,u WVV20,.k f0WW 1x0NQ3U x(xQLxwLW x, 8SW ALxsx Q3 "Lxu,23 x3X 8SW "0W.YW3,k

Take your palate on a tour of Central and South America with our newest Big Night Out ® menu.

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

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antiPasto oF coPPa rossa with Pencil asParagus and ricotta salata Paired with mount Pleasant winery’s norton, nv Missouri’s state grape, Norton, is big and bold with fruit characteristics of cherries and currants and a moderate to intense spice profile, reflective of its customary time in oak. Mount Pleasant’s Norton exhibits a full-bodied and fruit-driven profile with black cherries and blackberries underscored by baking spice, cocoa and dill. Coppa is a thinly sliced cured meat similar to proscuitto. The mild ingredients that accompany it dutifully highlight its flavor, and the wine has just the right amount of acidity to penetrate its beautifully marbled texture. The Norton’s mild spice is accented by the meat’s coriander, while cinnamon accents and mid-weight mouth feel add depth of flavor to the dish.

Bruschetta with salsiccia Fiama, Fennel conFit and Preserved lemons Paired with chaumette vineyards & winery’s chamBourcin, 2009 Chambourcin, a French hybrid grown in the United States, France and Australia, produces a medium-bodied red wine with a restrained fruit profile and definitive earthiness. Black currants and plums underscore black pepper and forest floor notes in Chaumette’s Chambourcin, which finishes long with a soft yet robust mouth feel. Juicy, succulent and modestly seasoned, this sausage offers a bit of sweet heat from the paprika that is pleasantly complemented by the wine’s texture, spice and subtle fruit qualities, yielding a pleasant, balanced food and wine combination.

Go to feaststl.com to get Ben and Mark’s recipes for Salume Beddu’s fabulous food pairings.

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MAY 2011

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Spring has Sprung

Come sip a glass of wine or our hand crafted beers and enjoy the scenic views from our Tasting Room, perched atop one of the highest hills in Ste. Genevieve County. Hours Wed & Thurs. noon to 6 pm Fri, Sat. & Sunday. 11am to 6pm B&B on Fri and Sat. nights

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Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

59


written by S.C. Truckey

|

PhotograPhy Courtesy of Noboleis Vineyards & Winery

in March of 2005, entrepreneur bob nolan closed on 74 acres of rough augusta farmland, where his initial plan to start a vineyard for growing grapes would quickly mature into a bigger dream of establishing a family winery. unwanted trees both on the hilltop and near the road tainted the view of the sprawling countryside with its undulating horizon speckled with church steeples and quaint houses. a brilliant mulberry tree, however, stood at the crest of the hill, making its claim, standing guard and looking out over what would one day be noboleis Vineyards & winery.

a few months later, as the plants take root, the leaves begin to show, and they realize that half their crop of 1,500 nortons aren’t nortons at all – they are a completely different grape, believed to be Chardonnel – because of a mix-up from their supplier. so they rip out the impostors, plant the real nortons and wait. and wait.

a mere three weeks into his new role as owner, nolan, with the help of vineyard manager fred Dressell, plants nearly seven acres of three grape varietals: Chambourcin, traminette and norton, the latter being the mainstay of Missouri’s wine industry. they plant the norton crop on the north-facing slope, where growing conditions are less desirable than on other slopes, with the hope that the vigorous norton vines will produce higher-quality fruit.

2005

“Once the Norton is established, about six to seven years, you’re good to go,” says Nolan’s daughter and Noboleis’ publicist, Angie Geis, “but those first three years are really tough because you’re at the mercy of the plants and, of course, Mother Nature.”

though some viticulturists who are new to the game would assume you can dive right into the harvesting, crushing and production of the product, nolan knows that the first three years are key and that the time it takes to get a good vineyard going is “part of the deal.”

2006

“This business is all about nature running its course,” he says.


So in the meantime he goes to work. This year they dedicate three more acres of their vineyard to white grapes: two for Vignoles (a varietal they’d not initially planted) and one additional acre for Traminette. They make improvements to the property, ripping out unsightly brush and taking down much of the old fence. The vision of a simple vineyard with a kickball field for the grandkids and a picnic bench under the mulberry begins to evolve into something more complex. In April, as if the Norton disaster weren’t enough, Noboleis loses most of the production from its immature vines as part of a late freeze that kills 85 percent of Missouri’s wine crop. Yet they manage to save one ton of Chambourcin, which they had harvested two weeks earlier than normal.

With the entire family on board, each one “bringing something different to the table,” according to Geis, plans for building the winery begin to grow. A son, Pat, with a background in food consults on the kitchen design; another son, Rob, offers business support through his company; daughter Chris serves as general manager and accountant; a grandson in school for product design gets to work on the new website; and Nolan’s wife, LouAnn, remains what their daughter calls his “right-hand man.” Other members of the family, including grandchildren, help with bottling.

They send off their Chambourcin harvest to a nearby winery to produce what will ultimately become Noboleis’ first wine.

2007 “Initially the winery wasn’t imperative,” says Nolan, “but after talking to the family, it turned into, ‘Yeah, we’re gonna do it.’ They followed my lead … I’m glad they did.” “He’s the visionary for sure,” says Geis. “That is the best way I can put it. He likes to start things and build things, and this is taking it to a whole new level.”

BOB & LOuANN NOLAN

“Let me tell you,” says Geis, “it’s a family affair.”


Winemaker Brandon Dixon joins Noboleis before the winery is even completed and begins working with the family on their plans for Noboleis’ future.

With operations in the vineyard beginning to stabilize, the dream of building a winery comes into focus. They break ground in November, with plans to turn what was once the family kickball field into the site of a tasting room, kitchen, retail shop and, as envisioned by Nolan himself, a state-of-the-art production facility complete with 150-foot wells underneath that tap into underground water, providing geothermal heating and cooling for the whole building.

The vines now are beginning to flourish and grow to maturity. The vineyard’s 10-ton 2008 crop is sold to various Missouri wineries.

BraNDoN DixoN

2008

2009 At this point, Geis says, they realize: “OK, we’re gonna do this. We’re not just grape growers.”

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“I gotta hand it to him,” Geis says of her father. “I’m proud of him that he’s just gone after it.”

MAY 2011


By July the winery is finished. They pick their fruit in the fall, making this year’s harvest their first batch of grapes that will be fermented and bottled on-site. They also begin to crush for another vineyard down the road.

“What’s great about this business, but what’s also challenging about this business, is that you’re a farmer, you’re a manufacturer, but you’re also a retailer,” says Nolan. 11769 Manchester Rd • Des Peres, MO • 63131

Good Life Inside and Out

314-966-0800 • www.terrastl.com • Next to Ace Hardware Mon - Fri 10am-7pm • Sat 9am-5pm • Sun 10am-5pm

Terra's Cooking Class Friday, May 27th, 6-8pm $45.00, "Tasting Tuscany" Call 314-966-0800 to sign up-space is

Terra's Kitchen Cooking Class

Friday, May 6th, 6-8pm $45.00, "Tasting Tuscany" Call 636-386-7733 to sign up - space is limited!

For Your BBQ... Lodge Cookware Outset BBQ Accessories Paula Deen Sauces Wilton Armetale Cookware Steven Raichlen Sauces and Rubs 221 Lamp & Lantern Village • Town & Country, MO • 63017

636-386-7733 • www.acestl.com • Inside Rick's Ace Hardware Mon - Fri 7:30am-9pm • Sat 7:30am-7pm • Sun 9am-6pm

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“A week before opening, we were finishing up some things for the inspection. It’s the Friday before, and we’re dropping our sign into the ground. Between 3 and 5pm, had 30 people stop and try to come in. Two weeks later, we had 600 people. All we had done marketing-wise is send one email to our email list. We sold 500 bottles of wine that day,” says Nolan.

In February their Jefferson Cup award-winning 2009 Noboleis Blanc is featured at Midwest Grape & Wine Conference, paired with one of the six courses served at the closing dinner. It is an honor they never expected, as they are such a new winery.

In March a tornado rips off half the roof of the building and hurls it into a patch of trees a few hundred yards away. Insulation flies everywhere, covering everything in its path – even the mulberry tree. And they also lose half a row of Nortons ... again.

The tasting room makes its debut on Oct. 2, 2010, to what Nolan describes as an unexpected crowd.

2011

BOTTLE PhOTOGrAPhy By LAUrA MILLEr

2010

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But they continue to look ahead, with plans to plant two more acres of Vignoles – their best seller – and to build a pavilion that overlooks the vineyard. They also would like to see an expansion of some sort, in both the kitchen and the tasting room, but Nolan isn’t sure when. “It could be 2012 or 2015 – we just don’t know.”

The Farmer-Owned Supermarket specializing in local foods and wines for the St. Louis consumer.

CSA

Community Supported Agriculture

Reflecting on what inspired him to turn his interest in viticulture into a full-blown winery, he says with ardor and unreserved conviction, “I was looking to do something tangible – and what’s more tangible than doing something with the earth?”

Farm to Family CSA members receive fresh-picked food from local farmers every week during the growing season. There are a limited number of spots available. Secure your membership today! see sappingtonfarmersmarket.com for more info

8400 Watson Road | St. Louis, MO 63119 | 314.843.7848 | www.sappingtonfarmersmarket.com Store Hours: Mon.– Sat. 7 am – 9 pm | Sun. 7 am – 8 pm

The Noboleis Grape-to-Glass Process Between August and October (depending on the variety and when it was planted), the fruit’s sugar level is tested, telling the vineyard manager and winemaker when the grapes will be ready for harvest.

When it’s time, a large machine drives down the line, shaking off the fruit but leaving the vines intact.

Back at the winery, bins are filled with the fruit, which gets dumped into a hopper that shakes it around before going into the de-stemmer.

White grapes are pressed and their seeds are removed before they go inside, while red grapes are punched down a few times a day, activating the fermentation process.

Juice is distributed to tanks or barrels.

As the wine sits for three months to two years, depending on the blend or varietal, the winemaker ensures its flavors and aromas are in balance. He tastes the wine, performs lab tests and determines the wine-making process he will use for each variety.

Wine is bottled, labeled and sent to the tasting room to be enjoyed.

Scan the Microsoft Tag from your smart phone (get the free app at gettag.mobi), or watch the video in the Watch & Listen section at feastSTL.com.

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MAY 2011

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Fine Dining You deserve a little get away…

The Barrel Room Grill and Steakhouse is the latest addition to the Hidden Lake Winery experience. It is joining the picturesque Majestic Falls reception site, the elegant Champagne Hall, and the popular Silent Forest Retreat cabins. Featuring full-service fine dining, the Barrel Room adds yet another touch to the mystical atmosphere that 10580 Wellen Road draws guests to this rustic paradise. The Barrel Aviston, Il 62216 Room’s menu features a delightful array of lunch 618-228-9111 and dinner selections served with views of lovely wooded surroundings. www.HiddenLakeWinery.com

We're Proud of Our Award Winning Wines

Velvet Rhapsody A Chocolate and Raspberry Delight •Gold Medal - 2011 Finger Lakes Competition in New York •Bronze Medal - 2010 INDY International Competition in Indianapolis Perfect Pair A Pear and Riesling Blend •Silver Medal - 2011 Finger Lakes Competition in New York

Spring Blossom A Green Apple Riesling •Silver Medal - 2010 Missouri Governor's Cup •Bronze Medal - 2010 INDY International Competition in Indianapolis

•Come in anytime for a tasting. •Appetizers and cheese trays available for purchase - or bring your own. •Look for our New Location September 2011 •See updates on our website or join us on Facebook. •We now sell WINEMAKING SUPPLIES & JUICE for the home wine maker.

Serenity Valley Winery (Previously Known as Vintner's Cellar Custom Winery) 973 Waterbury Falls Dr., O'Fallon, MO 63368

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Don't Forget Mom or Graduation...

Show Mom or Your Graduate how special they are. Graduation Cookies come in all School Colors!

Come check out Clayton's Bakery and Deli located in Des Peres on Manchester Road. Step into the rich, fragrant smells of a real bakery, and choose from a wide variety of sweets.

Order your Mother's Day or Graduation items Today!

Clayton’s Bakery & Deli offers fresh-made baked goods using recipes from St. Louis' earliest history. Enjoy decorated cookies, cakes and party pastries, all made from scratch! Visit the Deli for lunch; 10am-5:30pm.

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new FLAVORS recipes by Erik Jacobs

|

photography by Jennifer Silverberg


Savvy home cooks actively seek out local ingredients such as produce, meat and dairy to enhance their recipes. However, many locavores tend to overlook the origins of the wine at their tables. While sipping local vino is a great way to celebrate the talents and efforts of our region’s winemakers, it also adds depth of character and flavor when used in cooking. This collection of recipes will make local wine your new go-to ingredient.

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Thai-Style Traminette-Steamed Mussels Traminette, like its parent Gewürztraminer, is a medium-bodied wine, dry or off-dry, with wonderful spice and floral aromatics. These characteristics are often highly sought-after pairings with Asian cuisine. Fruit components such as lychee nut and apricot support the exotic flavors of this dish and help temper the spiciness of the chiles. Buy your mussels from a store that sells many of them so you can be assured of their freshness. Serves | 4 | Broth

1 cup ½-inch slice 1 2 Tbsp 3 1 tsp 1 cup 2 Tbsp

Mussels

1½ Tbsp 2 cloves 2 3 ½ cup 1 lb ¼ cup

Traminette wine ginger, lightly pounded lemongrass stalk, white end smashed and coarsely chopped honey bird’s eye chiles, smashed grated fresh lemon zest coconut milk fresh lemon juice salt and freshly ground black pepper

canola oil garlic, chopped shallots, minced fresh red Thai chiles, finely chopped Traminette wine mussels, washed and bearded cilantro, roughly chopped

| Preparation | In a small saucepan, reduce wine, ginger, lemongrass, honey and smashed chiles over medium-low heat until only a few tablespoons of liquid remain. Add lemon zest and coconut milk and bring to a simmer. Infuse for about 15 minutes. Add lemon juice and salt to taste. Strain liquid and set aside. Discard remaining solids. Heat oil in a deep saucepan large enough to hold and cover all the mussels. Add garlic and shallots and sweat over low heat for about 5 minutes. Add chiles and sweat for another minute. Turn heat to high and add wine, mussels and reserved broth. Add half the cilantro leaves, cover and cook until mussels are open, less than 5 minutes. Discard mussels that do not open. If needed, season to taste with salt and pepper.

| To Serve | Ladle mussels and broth into bowls and garnish with remaining cilantro. Serve with grilled bread to sop up the amazing broth.

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Tara Point is located just 12 National Scenic Byway miles upriver from Alton, atop a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River. Many say it’s the most beautiful view in the Midwest. All Inn & Cottage Suites have great river Views.

Box 1 • Grafton, IL 62037 • www.tarapoint.com • For Brochure or Reservations: (618) 786-3555 • Fax: (618) 786-3255

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MAY 2011

71


Pan-Seared Pepper Salmon with Port-Plumped Cherries and Chambourcin Beurre Rouge Chambourcin is a wonderfully food-friendly wine. Although grown in many geographical areas, locally, Chambourcin is produced in a style reminiscent of a light Rhone blend or Pinot Noir. Medium-bodied, with warm spice and pepper notes, Chambourcin is also notable for its cherry characteristics. Salmon has an assertive flavor not easily overwhelmed by a light red wine, and the pepper and fruit components of Chambourcin marry well with the other elements of this sauce. Serves | 4 | Beurre rouge

½ cup 1 cup 1 cup ½ cup

72

dried cherries, chopped locally made port wine Chambourcin wine red wine vinegar

feastSTL.com

MAY 2011

½ cup 3 sprigs 1 tsp 1½ sticks

shallots, minced fresh tarragon whole black peppercorns cold unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes

Salmon FilletS

4 pieces 4 tsp 1 Tbsp 2 Tbsp 4 sprigs

sustainably harvested salmon fillets, skin off, about 6 oz each olive oil, divided salt freshly ground black pepper fresh tarragon

| Preparation – Beurre Rouge | Place cherries and port in microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high for 45 seconds, until liquid becomes hot but does not boil. Allow cherries to soften in the port for at least 30 minutes, then drain.

Combine Chambourcin, vinegar, shallots, tarragon and peppercorns in small saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil and cook until reduced to ¼ cup, about 15 minutes. Whisk in cold butter, allowing each cube to blend completely before adding another. Strain sauce, add cherries and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm as you cook the salmon. Alternately – for a more stable sauce less likely to separate if allowed to cool: Strain the hot Chambourcin reduction into a blender. Drop butter through blender lid, adding each cube before the previous one has been completely incorporated. Continue until all butter is incorporated and sauce coats the back of a spoon. If needed, return sauce to the pan in order to warm it before all the butter is incorporated. Do not allow

to boil or sauce may break. Add drained cherries and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm as you cook the salmon.

| Preparation – Salmon Fillets | Preheat sauté pan or well-seasoned cast iron pan. Lightly oil salmon with 2 tsp oil and season with salt and pepper. Press pepper into the flesh of the fish so that it does not fall off during cooking. When pan begins to smoke, swirl in remaining oil and add salmon, flesh side down; sear for about 3 minutes on each side. Do not crowd the pan. If cooking in 2 batches, keep first batch in a warm oven as you cook second batch. | To Serve | On four separate serving plates, place one fillet, top with beurre rouge and garnish with a sprig of tarragon.


Ask Extra Virgin Q: Can you suggest a gift for someone who likes to cook but has little time? A: Consider flavored oils, specialty vinegars, mustard & our focaccia croutons for delicious

& quick entree salads. Add a recipe or two from our recipe box or one of our specialty salad cookbooks and olive wood salad tongs all wrapped in a stainless colander for an over the top gift basket. Perfect for Mother's Day for the busiest mom. All gifts and baskets can be shipped.

Visit Extra Virgin, an Olive Ovation for custom baskets and other gifts for the kitchen and home anytime of the year. 143 Carondelet Plaza Clayton, MO 63105 314-727-6464

Monday-Saturday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

www.extravirginoo.com Free parking in our garage

Fine Dining Michael’s Restaurant offers the finest Steaks, Seafood & more.

Michael’s is one of Southern Illinois’ finest dining establishments and has now served the community

for over 60 years (1941). Michael’s specializes in the finest fresh Seafood, Roast Prime Rib, Lamb, Veal, Poultry & Pasta. Michael’s in Highland, on Broadway - six decades of distinguished dining. We at Michael’s appreciate your past patronage and are looking forward to serving you in the future.

Michael’s

Restaurant

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Turkey Piccata One of the unique things about local wines is that oftentimes one can find the same wine made in a variety of styles. Chardonel, the wine called for in this recipe, is just such a wine. Vinified mostly to a dry style, Chardonel (a Chardonnay hybrid) can be fermented in stainless steel tanks to emphasize a citrusy element or aged in oak barrels for a richer, more buttery mouth feel. With this dish, whichever style you choose will match wonderfully. Serves | 4 | 4 Tbsp 1½ Tbsp 8

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butter, 1 Tbsp at room temperature, 3 Tbsp ice-cold all-purpose flour, plus additional for dredging turkey breast cutlets, about 3 oz each, sliced ¼-inch thick

2 Tbsp 1 cup 1 cup ¼ cup ¼ cup ¼ cup

salt and freshly ground black pepper olive oil, divided Chardonel wine low-sodium chicken stock fresh lemon juice drained capers chopped fresh parsley, divided

| Preparation | Mix 1 Tbsp roomtemperature butter and 1½ Tbsp flour in small bowl until smooth. This is a classic French thickening agent called beurre manié. Place 1 cup flour in shallow baking dish. Season turkey cutlets with salt and pepper. Dip cutlets into flour to coat; shake off excess.

Heat oil in large sauté pan. Add 4 turkey cutlets and cook until light brown and cooked through, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to platter; tent with foil to keep warm. Repeat with remaining cutlets, adding more oil if necessary. Remove from pan and set aside with other cutlets. Deglaze hot pan with Chardonel and scrape all brown bits from bottom of pan. Add stock and lemon juice and boil at mediumhigh heat for 2 minutes. Whisk in butterflour mixture, reduce heat to medium, and boil until sauce thickens slightly, about 2 minutes. Add capers, 1 Tbsp parsley and 3 Tbsp cold butter. Pour sauce over turkey and serve. Garnish with remaining parsley.


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FEAST EXTRA

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Pick up the Let’s Eat section of the Post-Dispatch everyWed.in May for more recipes featuring local wine!


Concord-Poached Pears with Blue Cheese, Honey and Pistachios This sweet red grape is known to PB&J aficionados around the world as the grape jelly grape. Concord wine has a readily identifiable flavor and a wonderful sugar/ acid balance, which is to say a great deal of sugar and very little acid. Poaching pears in Concord adds a deep, rich color to the finished dessert and a lovely aroma. Serves | 4 | 4 1 bottle 1 cup 1 tsp 2 2 Tbsp 4 oz 4 oz ¼ cup ¼ cup ½ cup

firm pears, such as Anjou or Bartlett Concord wine sugar whole cloves cinnamon sticks butter mascarpone cheese, softened blue cheese, divided heavy cream honey toasted pistachios, roughly chopped

| Preparation | Peel pears, leaving stems intact, and slice bottoms horizontally to allow pears to stand level. In a large saucepan, add wine, sugar, cloves and cinnamon sticks. Add pears to saucepan, and add enough water to cover pears.

Simmer for 20 minutes or until tender. Cool pears in wine mixture to room temperature. You can refrigerate them in poaching liquid until ready to fill. When ready to plate, remove pears from liquid. Strain poaching liquid back into saucepan and reduce by 90 percent over medium-high heat. Remove from heat and stir in butter until combined. Whisk together mascarpone cheese, 2 oz blue cheese, heavy cream and honey until smooth. Taste and adjust sweetness as needed. Add remaining blue cheese and allow it to be a little chunky. Transfer mascarpone mixture to a pastry bag, or if you do not have one, a large spoon will do. Halve pears vertically at the stem and remove seed pods and stems with a melon baller. Pipe (or spoon) cheese mixture into the hole left by the melon baller and garnish with toasted pistachios. Spoon reduced sauce generously over pears on a serving platter and serve remaining sauce on the side.

Word On the Street Tucker’s is the Place For Steaks! And For Good Reason...

The owners of Tucker’s Place wrote and developed their own beef specifications and visited only the plants that could deliver the best. All of our steaks come from the Omaha area which is the “heart of the corn belt” and where the richest cattle are raised! Our Sirloin and Strip cut steaks are exclusively Omaha “Black Angus” choice or higher grade beef. SOUTH COUNTY SBSB ¼%\#% Ägb SWQdEQNdUNEQ

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Penne Ala Salute

1 - 28 oz. can peeled Italian style pear tomatoes 3 cloves garlic 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup fresh basil 2 cups broccoli florets

½ cup sliced sun-dried tomatoes 1 cup sliced mushrooms ¼ cup grated Asiago cheese or Romano cheese 4 cups cooked penne pasta cooked al dente (1/2 lb. uncooked pasta)

In a food processor, mince garlic, olive oil and salt & pepper together for one minute. Cut Italian style tomatoes into small pieces (about 1” cubes), reserve some liquid. In a bowl combine garlic & olive oil mixture with cut tomatoes, add chopped fresh basil. Set aside. Place pasta, broccoli, mushrooms and sun dried tomatoes in a one-gallon pot of rapidly boiling salt water. When water boils again, drain. Toss pasta together with sauce mixture in a large bowl. Serve immediately. Sprinkle pasta with grated Asiago cheese, fresh basil and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil. Makes 4 servings.

Pesto Basil Strata

Put A Punch In Brunch 1 cup milk 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 day-old loaf French bread, cut into 1/2 inch slices 8 ounces prosciutto, thinly sliced

2061 61 ZUMB ZUMBEHL BEHL (Bogey Hills Plaza) • ST ST. CHARLES CHARLES, ES MO

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2 cups arugula leaves 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 pound basil torta cheese, thinly sliced 3 ripe tomatoes, sliced 1/2 cup Basic Pesto

1. Mix the milk and wine together. Dip 1 or 2 slices of bread in the milk/wine mixture. 2. Place the bread in a dish and cover with prosciutto, arugula leaves dipped in olive oil, slices of basil torta, and tomato slices. Drizzle pesto sparingly. Repeat the layering. 3. Beat eggs, salt and pepper. Pour evenly over the layers in the dish. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. 4. Preheat oven to 350˚F. 5. Drizzle the top with the cream and bake until puffy and browned, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Serve immediately. 6 portions

4 eggs, beaten Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 1/2 cup heavy or whipping cream

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inding through some of the prettiest scenery in the

state, the Hermann Wine Trail hugs g the Missouri

River for 20 miles between Hermann and New Haven. Along the way, seven charming family-owned wineries are open for tasting and tours. (067 !+2)-6 > '<6/ > &<.14.1* 8-61 #65. $.17655)3, > "6;%9.55 > :=499.1 > 8-35. $<99

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Independently Owned & Operated

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

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A Venerable Vintage:

Adam Puchta Winery Written by Barbara E. StefĂ no

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PhotograPhy by Gregg Goldman


When TIm PuChTa oFFers you a drInk, TrusT ThaT you’re In For some remarkable surPrIses. The sixth-generation owner of Adam Puchta Winery has vino in his veins. Building on a family legacy that hopped the pond from Germany to America in the 1830s, Tim Puchta bleeds pure grape inspiration. His winery is the oldest continuously owned family winery in Missouri. Two and a half miles from the heart of Hermann, Adam Puchta Winery pays homage to tradition while embracing the future. A mystical alchemy occurs when Tim’s wines meet his choice of eats. A refreshing and bright sipper, the everpopular Vignoles is highly enjoyable by itself. But pop a bite of Key lime pie, and it flavor-morphs into an icy, tart margarita inspired by a bender in Mexico. Braise lamb loin with Berry Black, or take Tim’s cue and experience how Hunter’s Red opens up when partnered with dry-rubbed barbecue. Float raspberry sherbet in a small moat of Jazz Berry; wash down a slice of apple pie or a spicy Asian dish with Traminette; or replace water with Misty Valley in your pineapple upside-down cake for an inspired dessert. Societal VarietalS The Puchta family hails from Oberkotzau, a Bavarian district of Germany near the border with what is now the Czech Republic. According to family folklore, the family was mandated by the Bavarian government to abandon wine grapes in favor of other crops, so in 1839 they moved with a “society” of like-minded folks to Hermann’s similar climate to continue their wine-making tradition. Here they cultivated the Norton, Concord and Catawba grapes. “Hermann lore has it that there were 60 wineries producing 2.5 million gallons of wine before Prohibition,” Tim says. Stone Hill Winery – also established by German immigrants a few years before Adam Puchta and Son – was responsible for 1.25 million gallons alone. Adam Puchta, Tim Puchta’s great-great-grandfather, had his hands on a gold mine early on. He participated peripherally in both the California Gold Rush in 1853 and the Nicaraguan rush shortly after, selling cattle to miners at a profit. The endeavor gave him the capital he needed to buy some of his father’s land, which was already being used for grape cultivation, to build his own winery. By 1855, the first wines flowed under Adam Puchta and Son Wine Co. The Puchta women kept diaries, though the earliest entries are in an archaic German dialect no one around today can translate. Later entries, in English, have a line or two most days on the routine goings-on, such as Adam’s arduous 2½-mile trips into town each month to do business. “[Adam’s second wife, Bertha,] would write in her diary, ‘Adam went to town.’ Two or three days later, she’d write, ‘Adam came home,’” Tim says. “It’s amazing what they went through to do what they had to do.” These were high times: The farm thrived and Adam’s tract grew to 1,000 acres. There are few production records, but at the height of productivity under Adam Puchta, the winery is believed to have produced some 10,000 gallons of wine. The product was sold in jugs and barrels and shipped to taverns in St. Louis and Washington, Mo., and even to Germany.

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“We preServed aS much of everyThing aS humanLy poSSibLe.”

Man-Made disaster The passage of Prohibition in 1919 brought the thriving wine industry on which Hermann was built to a sudden, screeching halt. “When Prohibition hit, the area went into the Great Depression 10 years early,” Tim says. “Prohibition destroyed everything.” Adam’s son, Henry, and Henry’s son, Everett – Tim’s grandfather – were forced to pull up their vines and plant other crops. Prohibition enforcers hacked up all but one of the 15 oak fermentation vats, and the family sold off parcels of the farm bit by bit to survive. The sprawling Puchta tract dwindled to just 86 acres. Tim Puchta, like the generations that came before, was raised on the family farm. Adam’s press room, where customers now line up for tastings, had been converted to a barn when the winery went dry. Tim chuckles over the many times Grandpa Everett surreptitiously sliced slivers of smoky meats from hanging slabs of ham and bacon, always replacing the chunks he’d cut out to avoid detection. He washed his snacks down with swigs of homemade wine he’d stashed in mounds of straw and swore young Tim to secrecy. “Grandma knew exactly what he was doing – she wasn’t stupid.” “I was fortunate to grow up in a time when we milked cows, we butchered, we farmed,” Tim says. “Wine was part of our culture growing up. Even as a child, wine was always part of the meal.” Though the family wine-making business had died long before he was born, Tim stayed close to the trade from early childhood on, working for his friends at Stone Hill Winery during harvests, summers and vacations and any other chance he got. The Puchta family had continued to make wine for personal use, primarily from wild blackberries, Norton and Concord. But a full-on vino revival was always on Tim’s mind. “When Dad showed an interest in reopening the winery, it was easy, mentally,” Tim says. “I never had any doubts it would work.” But while he and Randolph Puchta, his father, happily let the idea ferment, Everett would have none of it. “He was bitter,” Tim says. “He’s the only generation that saw [Prohibition] from the beginning, the whole gamut. He saw how badly it devastated his family and the whole region, and he was especially affected by it. It wasn’t a topic you raised with him.” the Grape revival Everett Puchta died in 1988, and for the next two years Tim and his father immersed themselves in replanting grapevines and restoring the structures, some of which date back to the 1850s. They reroofed the old house, which now serves as the winery’s shop and tasting room. The old house also contained Grandma’s “summer kitchen,” which is now a quaint shop brimming with crackers, cookies, sauces, chilled wines and soft cheeses. “History was always very important to Dad,” Tim says. “We preserved as much of everything as humanly possible. We had fun. We learned a lot about each other – and how far we could push each other.” Adam Puchta Winery reopened

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“You can’T make wine Like TheY did in 1850.”

in 1990, just in time for Oktoberfest, featuring an array of reds and whites that highlight the strengths of Missouri’s unique grapes. In the two decades since, Tim’s wines have racked up more awards than he can count. “You can’t make wine like they did in 1850,” says Tim. “But it was important to me to make the kinds of wine that honored that history.” Tim’s father, Randolph, died in 2006, and Tim’s brother, Matt, and Randolph’s widow, Lois, continue to serve on the winery’s board of directors. Winemaker Michael Rouse joined the team in 2004, refining the existing lineup and introducing new wines. “He’s done great things with the quality of our wines,” Tim says. “He has tweaked everything. The Rosé was his baby, and the APW Brut was definitely his baby. He picked up where I left off with the Norton and port. His attention to detail on all our wines is phenomenal.” The Wine CraWl During a deer hunt 10 years ago, Tim made a surprise discovery in an area of the property where the family’s crops had long been thought extinct. Crawling on his belly through thick brush after a buck, revolver in hand, he put his other hand down on a cluster of grapes. “I thought: ‘Did a squirrel bring these here? Where’d they come from?’ I found an old row of about five pre-Prohibition vines growing wild.” The thick, gnarly Norton vines had grown so tall that Tim had to scale the trees they were entangled in to get to the fruit. Ever the preservationist, he’s considering replanting clippings of these original vines.

adam PuChTa Winery 1947 Frene Creek Road, Hermann, Mo.; 573.486.5596; adampuchtawine.com Winery hours: April through Oct.: 9am-6pm Monday through Saturday; 11am-6pm Sunday ○ Nov. through March: 9am-5pm daily When you can’t get to hermann to sip a glass on the Puchta homestead, pick up a bottle at the dozens of st. Louis-area markets where Puchta wines are sold: Schnucks, multiple locations, schnucks.com ○ The Wine Merchant, 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, thewinemerchantltd.com ○ Grapevine Wines, 309 S. Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, grapevinewinesandcheese.com ○ Friar Tuck, multiple locations, friartuckonline.com ○ Provisions Gourmet Market, 11615 Olive Blvd., Creve Coeur, provisionsmarket.com ○ Lukas Liquor, multiple locations, lukasliquorstl.com ○ Eureka Wine House, 107 S. Central Ave., Eureka, eurekawinehouse.com ○ Bombay Wine & Spirits, 2190 First Capitol Drive, St. Charles, 636.949.6633 ○ Di Gregorio’s Market, 5200 Daggett Ave., The Hill, digregoriofoods.com ○ Randall’s Wine and Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., shoprandalls.com ○ Devine Wine & Spirits, 2961 Dougherty Ferry Road, Valley Park, 636.825.9647 ○ The Wine & Cheese Place, multiple locations, wineandcheeseplace.com

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Come Visit...

The Newest Winery in Augusta.

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Noboleis Vineyards

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Family owned, Noboleis Vineyards, begins it's first full season offering a full line of Estate-grown, award-winning Missouri wines. Come join us for lunch and take in the views of the rolling vineyards surrounding the winery.

Open daily until 5pm Music on weekends May-October 100 hemsath rd., augusta mo 63332 $)$1'"+1'%.. 6 ,,,18737#*&2-&8*(54/2107! visit our website to check out upcoming events

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Dine with us for Executive Chef Adam Lambay's seasonal menu of locally sourced foods.

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Ask The Chef... Q: What is FIN? A: The perfect blends of traditional and modern Japanese cuisine in a relaxing ambiance. These signature Fin dishes are created by Master Chef Paul Kulkanjanatorn - and are a must try when dining at FIN!

Shogun Roll

Chopped fresh tuna mixed with Fin's spicy sauce, apple, masago, and scallion rolled in rice and seaweed and topped with fresh tuna and avocado.

Seared Scallops

Pan seared Jumbo scallops in soy sauce and butter topped with a creamy, spicy sauce and marinated fresh wasabi. Served with spinach and crab meat salad.

Please call to make a reservation.

•Où New “M92O275 LiqueursN7;< from–27;:O Europe IDEAL GIFTS for MOTHER’S DAY! Vom Fass introduces new imported liqueurs and Single Malt Whisky from Scotland; including Wild Rose Liqueur. Sparkling Italian White Wine with a splash of Wild Rose Liqueur is a fabulous way to celebrate any special occasion and amazing for the “rose of a mother” in your life this Mother’s Day. For the culinary queens, an Oil and Vinegar Tasting Set gives her a beautifully wrapped gift of oils and vinegars that she can enjoy and refill. The VOM FASS motto is: Look - Taste - Enjoy!! VOM FASS takes pride in selling artesian fruit vinegars and exquisite oils dispensed into any of over 50 selections of traditional and elegant varieties of bottles. Each bottle is inscribed with a special message or simply with details of their contents. Upon request, gifts are beautifully wrapped - compliments of VOM FASS. Customers are encouraged to return with their bottles for refills!

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“ I found an oLd row of abouT fIve pre-prohIbITIon vIneS growIng wILd.”

Tim has also set his sights on acquiring and rebuilding the original homestead. Adam’s grave rests on the site; Tim and his father put up a new headstone some years ago, and he continues to lovingly care for the plot. Tim’s two young sons are poised to pen the next chapter in the family legacy: food. His eldest, Spencer, is enrolled in the hotel and restaurant management program at the University of Missouri-Columbia; Parker graduates from high school in May and plans to attend the culinary program at East Central College in Union. Upscale tastings and fine food pairings are high on Tim’s wish list. “My goal is to eventually put a restaurant in and do fine food and pairings with a limited menu and seasonal foods,” he says. “What we try to do is create a wine experience. It goes back to ‘wine is food; food is wine.’”

TIM’S TASTING NOTES The well-respected winery owner shares his notes and pairing recommendations on some of Adam Puchta Winery’s most popular wines. Norton: A complex, dry red wine with a bouquet that exhibits rich cherry, red raspberry and vanilla qualities with subtle hints of spice, tea, tobacco, licorice, clove and a touch of cassis. Serve with lamb, duck or your favorite white sauce. Hunter’s Red: A medium-bodied, smooth-drinking red wine with a mildly floral nose and a slight touch of residual sweetness. Serve chilled in the summer to complement barbecue selections or Italian fare. Traminette: A very aromatic and floral semisweet white wine with the aroma of jasmine tea, honeysuckle, rose and apple. It pairs great with cinnamon-apple pie or Asian cooking of all kinds. Misty Valley: A sweet white wine with subtle hints of pineapple and papaya fruit. Add a little of this to your cake mix, especially pineapple upside-down cake. It keeps the cake moist and really fruity. Vignoles: A luscious, semi-sweet white bursting with essences of peach, strawberry and kiwi fruit when served cold. As the wine warms a little in your glass, aromas and tastes of pear and apricot come forth, and then finish with a sweet crisp citrus taste. It’s great with Key lime pie or lime-marinated shrimp. Riefenstahler: A sweet red full of fresh Concord flavor and aroma, with a hint of rich blackberry jam. Complements a gourmet PB&J sandwich and offers a great balance to spicy barbecue. Jazz Berry: A fruity, sweet wine with the intense aroma and flavor of fresh raspberries. Pair with dark chocolate or soak strawberries in this wine for a twist on strawberry shortcake. Berry Black: All the characteristics of freshly picked blackberries: The first sip displays sweet and tart flavors, followed by a bit of the seed character in the finish. Warm sugar or shortbread cookies, pie or scones are awesome with this wine.

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20%

OFF

BOOK CLUB Check out this month’s FEAST Book Club pick! From cookbooks to memoirs and everything in between, FEAST, in partnership with Left Bank Books, brings you our monthly picks for what’s new and notable in the world of foodie books.

THIS MONTH’S PICK:

Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch by Nigel Slater With wit and enthusiasm, acclaimed British food writer, Nigel Slater, shares his passion for growing and cooking the veggies from his beloved garden. Part cookbook, part gardening guide, Slater brings an excitement to fresh, seasonal eating that will inspire vegetarians and omnivores alike. Sign up for our enewsletter or visit the FEAST EVENTS section at feastSTL.com to read up on our current pick and get a link to 20% off this month’s featured title. Plus, get our staff picks for more veggie-centric cookbooks that celebrate eating seasonally.

JOIN US! Thu., May 26, from 6 to 7PM at Bridge

Sit in on the FEAST Book Club meet-up for complimentary hors d’oeuvres, exclusive wine specials and in-depth discussion of this month’s selection. RSVP to editor@feastSTL.com.

We can bring our show TO YOU! The Bissell Mansion Restaurant and Murder Mystery Dinner Theatre has made it easy for you and your friends or family to "Get Away With Murder" anytime you like.

Our performers can travel anywhere, whether it be in the greater Metropolitan St. Louis area or beyond. Let them bring the FUN AND EXCITEMENT of one of our many interactive murder mystery shows to your next function.

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only 5 minutes from downtown

Call For Details 314-533-9830

4426 Randall Pl. • St. Louis www.bissellmansion.com

Join Us for a Gathering Welcome Spring at Winding Brook Estate- The Lavender Farm with our Lavender Spring Teas Join us for a gathering at the Lavender Farm where moods are brightened and senses are heightened in the fresh air. You’ll enjoy a delightful lunch in our Olde Red Barn with its unique ambience as we celebrate Spring. Visit our website for dates and details. Reservations required.

Group Tours, Lunches and Classes Booking Now thru October

3 Winding Brook Estate Drive • Eureka, Missouri 636-575-5572 www.WindingBrookEstate.com Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

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ACCOUNTING/TAXES GET ORGANIZED FOR 2011 Experienced in Personal, Professional Accounting & Bookkeeping Perfect for small businesses or personal bookkeeping. Quickbooks knowledgeable. Affordable rates.

Mary Kraemer 314.801.1326 mary@mk-accounting.com ACCOUNTS OUT OF BALANCE? QuickBooks help for small businesses. 18 years banking experience, 10 years QuickBooks experience. No job too small. Jane 314-680-2929

CATERERS / EVENT PLANNING TWO LB PARTY SERVICE Let Us Do the Work While You Enjoy Your Event or Party. Bartender & Waitresses Available. Contact Susie Duncan for details: 314-229-1736

CHILDCARE SERVICES LOVING NANNY Enjoy providing for Children's Needs for Over 25 Years. Former Daycare Owner/Teacher. Special Needs Exp. Child Development Education. Ref's. 314-477-7241

CLEANING SERVICES

EDUCATION GUITAR/PIANO LESSONS IN YOUR HOME! Experienced Teacher and Musician with Over 20 Years Experience, Flexible with Many Different Musical Styles. Call Michael Levine at 314-308-4746 www.mlevinegatewayguitars.com COLLEGE ESSAYS & APPLICATIONS Private Tutoring: English/Writing, ACT/SAT Preparation Adam 314-606-2199, BA & MA AdamJiaoshi@gmail.com

HANDYMAN SERVICES ALL AROUND HOME MAINTENANCE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Attic & Basement Cleaning, Hauling, Powerwashing, Gutter Cleaning & Repair. Insured. John 314-432-3232 KEN'S HANDYMAN SERVICE Carpentry, Electrical, Plumbing, Painting, Gutter Cleaning and Hauling. Over 25 Yrs. Exp. Ref's. Insured. Call Ken 314-567-6900

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

LEGOS WANTED!!

EVA MARIE'S TRANSPORTATION Serving Seniors, Medical Patients and Corporate Travelers Since 1997. Prompt & Courteous from Door to Door. 314-484-2373 AUTOMOBILE & MOTORCYCLE STORAGE The Finest in Climate Controlled Storage Close to Clayton and Ladue 314-993-1330 or Kevin@stlouiscarmuseum.com I BUY RUNNING USED CARS Get More Money Then A Tax Deduction Cash Paid On The Spot Call Sam 314-302-2008 WE BUY VEHICLE'S Car's, Truck's. SUV's Highlines, Domestic, Import Sell your car for cash today Call 314-960-4175

CATERERS / EVENT PLANNING PERSONAL CHEF OFFERING Catering Services for Small In Home Private Parties or Gatherings. Chef Paul Azkoul 314-607-9924 For creative menus and ideas go to:

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Weekly • Bi-weekly • Monthly Insured & Bonded

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MAY 2011

HOUSE CLEANING BY PENNY One Weekly Opening Friday's am. Honest, Dependable & 18 Yrs. Exp. Insured & Bonded References Upon Request. Interested? Please Call 314-495-5264 cell 314-298-2678 hm CLEANING SERVICES Honest and Trustworthy Bosnian Woman Wants To Clean Homes Weekly, Bi-weekly & Monthly If Interested Please Call 314-629-0476 or 255-9122

COMPUTER SERVICES ST. LOUIS TRAINING Home or Office Computer Support PC and MAC Website Design Since 1995 636-532-0859

EDUCATION

Guitar Repair - Setup - Restring - Adjustment

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FOR THE HOME

Reglaze Your BathTub & Tile!

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Marc 314-520-0857

GUTTERS/ROOFING CLAYTON HEIGHT'S GUTTER & HOME EXTERIORS Specializing in Copper & Aluminum Guttering Soffit & Fascia Covering Insured & Small Jobs O.K. Paul Steinbrook 7568 Wise Avenue St. Louis, MO 63117 Tel: 314-971-2074 www.clayton-heights.com ASAP GUTTER SERVICE, LLC Specializing In All Your Gutter Needs ïCleaningï ïRetighteningïReplacingï ïLeaf Protection Installedï For a Free Quote Call Shawn 314-544-2727 CALL GUTTER HEADS For All Your Gutter Needs. Cleaning, Repair & Gutter Guards a Specialty. Free Over The Phone Estimates. Leaf Cleanup Available. Call today! 314-766-2363

HELP WANTED VIBRANT "NEW" ITALIAN RESTAURANT Seeking Experienced Chefs, Servers, Bartenders and Hostesses in the Chesterfield Area.

636-532-5353

HOME IMPROVEMENT

ROTTEN WOOD REPAIRS SEMI RETIRED TRIM CARPENTER Specializing In Large Homes. Quality Work in Bookcases, Doors, Crown Moldings, Wainscoting, Kitchens and More. Dale 314-541-6708 ï Insured ï Free Estimates ï

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AUTOMOTIVE

VISITING ANGELS 24/7 Companion Care for Seniors. Personal Care, Meal Prep, Light Housekeeping & Peace of Mind. 314-569-9890

STONE MASTERS "A Reflection of Excellence" When you want your stone to show its true beauty choose the best. Now Offering Grout Cleaning. Call: 636-561-3055 Email: stnwrksinc@aol.com Web: stonemastersinc.org

FLOORING/TILE

ANNOUNCEMENTS We Buy Used, Loose, Boxed, Tubs, Collections and Anything Lego. Call Tom 314-766-LEGO Vintage Toys Too! (5346)

HEALTHCARE SERVICES

Home Helpers is your #1 source affordable, dependable care for all ages by compassionate caregivers. •

RN Supervised

Meal Preparation

WOOD FLOOR REFINISHING 25-yr. Old Fully Insured Company. Sanding, Refinishing, Repairs, New Installation. Free Estimates. PROFESSIONAL FLOORS OF ST. LOUIS 314-843-4348 www.profloorstl.com

LAWN & GARDEN

Housekeeping Errands • Recuperative Care •

• Bathing/Personal Care •

On Call 24/7 Insured/Bonded and Carefully Screened

314.961.1002 636.391.0000

www.homehelpersstl.com COLLEGE DEGREED CAREGIVERS provide care and companionship. Why accept less? A competitively priced option. Care manager/clinical staff available. AAA screened/bonded. Preferred choice since 1987. StaffLink/Gretchen 314-477-3434

Outdoors Solutions

Landscape Design & Installation, Retaining Walls, Paver Patios. Free Estimates

636-296-5050

Blown-In Mulching Application Dyed Mulch $55/cy Double Ground Mulch $50/cy **10 cubic yard minimum** 10% OFF Entire Purchase Through May 31, 2011

Call 1-800-RE-MULCH or visit www.mulchtech.com


Masonry/Concrete MICHAELS CONCRETE New & Replacement Driveways, Sidewalks, Patios, Etc. Including All Decorative Work Family Owned & Operated, Insured BBB A+, 314-738-9646

PAINTING

O’BRIEN PAINTING & DECORATING, INC. INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR Painting • Power Washing Wallpapering • Plastering

35 Years Experience Fully Insured • References

J. KEVIN O’BRIEN, PRESIDENT

314-481-3500 MOUNTJOY DESIGNS by Carey Johnson, Certified in Faux Finishing Techniques by Decorating Masters Institute. Call 314-966-6346 www.mountjoydesigns.net

The Purr'fect Pet Sitter

Daily Visits, Day Care & Pet Taxi Service. Small Pets Too! Insured & Bonded. NAPPS Member. Call Rachel 636-675-4114 or wix.com/tpurrfectps/Rachels-pet-sitting THE WELL BEHAVED PET.... For all your home training needs. New Puppy, Puppy Mill Rescue Dogs or Behavioral Problems. Call me, I can help. Laura @ 636-456-9993

FRENCHTOWN RUG CLEANING ORIENTAL/AREA RUGS FREE PICK UP & DELIVERY (636) 949-0753 www.frenchtownrugcleaning.com

SERVICES

Call About “Discounts Through” May 2011

CHIMNEY SERVICES Chimney Covers Brick Work Flue Relining Full Restoration Wet Wall Solutions

314.645.6496 636.391.2226 www.englishsweep.com

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE LAKE MICHIGAN Waterfront Homes for Sale Go To www.Andreacrossman.com or Call 616-355-6387 Andrea Crossman

GILLS

TREE SERVICE

(636) 274-1378 Insured NOW ACCEPTING NEW Mowing & Fertilization Customers. Spring Cleanups, Mulching, Pruning and Drainage Work. Perfect Time for Planting & Mole Trapping (our specialty). 636-466-2050

TUCKPOINTING

ALL TYPES TUCKPOINTING Serving St. Louis for over 40 years Mortar Color Matching Brick Cleaning Bricklaying Stone Work Power Washing Caulking Waterproofing & Sealing

Preston 314-566-1500 - Owner Insured ï Free Estimates

TREES TRIMMED & REMOVED

•Stone Retaining Walls •Stump Grinding •Bucket Truck Service

RUGS

$ CASH 4 OLD STUFF $ ————Light Hauling———— We Cleanup, Haul Away and/or purchase: Garage, Estate and Moving Sales! Also, Warehouse, Business & Storage Locker Leftovers! FAY FURNITURE 618-271-8200 AM

Written Guarantee No Job Too Small Credit Cards Accepted Insured DAN MILBOURN

CONSTRUCTION INC.

314-772-0190 314-771-7622 FAX

Make a

splash

with a larger ad and land future customers!

20 Years in Business! 6 Consecutive Service Award Winner from '05-'10. Complete Tuckpointing and Spotpointing with Color Match. Chimney, Stone and Brick Repair, Waterproofing. Fully Insured. Prompt Free Estimates. A+ BBB rating. (314) 645-1387 Credit Cards Accepted Mirellituckpointing.com

STEVE GRESS TUCKPOINTING Solids and Spot Tuckpointing with Color Match. Stone Basement Restoration..... and More. Prompt Free Estimates. Insured. 314-645-8991 or 636-947-2133 Member BBB MC/Visa Accepted

VACATION RENTALS

TREES

GRASS ROOTS LAWNCARE is celebrating our tenth year of making you proud of your lawn. We offer many services, free estimates, and are fully insured. 314-458-9560 or grassrootsmo@gmail.com

Dog Walking and Exercise Programs, In Home Dog Training, Housesitting, Grooming, and Pet Visits. Q Rescue Animal Training Available Q Free Pickup and Delivery Insured & Bonded. Angie's List Winner & PSI Member A limited liability company. 314-631-6738 info@allcrittercarestl.com

CARDINAL SEASON TICKETS 15 games across the schedule board, 4 tickets per game, red bird club, section 252 (behind home plate). On aisle, last row in section, has good rain coverage. Face Value. Please Call 314-960-3900

POND PLAY BY

Louis & John Murray, Kirkwood 314-479-4466

TICKETS

WATER ART

We Design and Install Fish Ponds, Waterfalls, Babbling Brooks and Plant Life In and Out of the Water.

ALLEN'S HAULING SERVICE 15, 20 and 30 Yard Trash Containers. Hauling Service. No Job Too Big Or Small. Any Type of Trash Removal. 314-621-0481 or 581-7274

PET SERVICES

66 ac, spectacular view Mississippi River Valley/IL Bluffs. 30 min. NW STL Metro area off Hwy 79. Woods, creek, pasture, pond site, abundant wildlife. Major Duck flyway. Well maintained. 2 sty home 3400 sf. 5BR, 3BA, 1400 sf fin LL w/ 2 add'l BR's, full bath, kitc. & Family room walk-out, 2 screened porches overlooking bluffs. Inside freshly painted. New Evergreen porch deck flooring and all new porch screening. New 40 year architectural singled roof. Second 2BR home at entrance, perfect for caretaker/rent. Income from bottom tillable acreage. Duck lake potential. Lincoln County REDUCE TO $819,900 Seller Pays Closing Costs if closed by 5/31/11 314-862-1126

RELIABLE LAWN MOWING Will Beat Your Current Lawn Service by 10% Total Lawn Treatments and Lawn Maintenance. West County. 636-530-1998 or 314-591-2787 Calls Returned Promptly SHEARN LANDSCAPING

JC PAINTS Interior/Exterior Painting Reliable, Clean & Reasonable. Insured. Call John for a free estimate 314-703-2794

*,) 66, ,-66

PACKAGING STORE SMALL MOVES, NATIONWIDE We ship furniture, household items, antiques, china, computers, artwork. Call Ray or Dennis 314-968-0096 for shipping estimate. 292 East Ave., St. Louis, 63119 Email: packing102@sbcglobal.net

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PRIVATE COUNTRY HOME

TUCKPOINTING

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PAINTER/PROFESSIONAL 26 Years of Experience. Interior/Exterior Painting. Deck, Dry Wall Repair, Wallpaper Removal. Free Estimates & Insured. 314-567-7957 or 314-629-7852

SERVICES

.20+8/ #@$> 7D>!9'& C<< &$'"?$"'9 !#$% &%'"A& C@< $'99&

REAL ESTATE FOR SALE

2=:8E : 2:0:3+.1 (

PAINTING

LAWN & GARDEN

Call 314/269-8810 or email andreajones@laduenews.com

for more information

GULF COAST HOUSE OR CONDO Carillon Beach, FL, Destin Area 3BR, 3BA, Beach House or Condo. Carillon has 3 pools, tennis courts and so much more! Avail. thru 2011. Call Dave at 314-922-8344 Great Rates. For Pictures Please Visit www.vrbo.com/148365 or /127089 NAPLES, FLORIDA New Construction 2010 2 bedroom and den sleeps 6 Inground Pool and Hot tub 2 car garage on Beautiful Golf course 10 minutes from shopping and beach Please Call for Available Dates 314-409-7250 Monthly, Weekly & Bi-weekly Rates REGENTS PARK LONDON Modern 2 Bedroom Apartment. Convenient for Museums, Shopping, Theater. Highly Recommended! Call 314-569-2009

WANTED

WANTED

CHINESE ANTIQUES I AM BUYING IVORY - JADE - VASES AND JARS ART - HANGING SCROLLS CLOISONNE - RARE PIECES PLEASE CALL FOR APPOINTMENT LADUE LOCATION 314-503-4847 COLLECTOR WISHES TO PURCHASE Gun Collections â Old and New Antiques of Any Type Fishing Tackle Call Steve Lapin 314-571-9427 I BUY POSTCARDS! Stereoviews, Old Photographs, Documents, Letterheads, Movie Photos, Advertising, World's Fair, Railroad, Military, Political, Nautical & More. Mike 314-524-9400 OLD RECORDS WANTED Experienced Collector Pays Cash for Your Record Collection. 45 RPM, 78 RPM and 33.3 RPM. Rock, Soul, Jazz. House Calls Made. Call Kurt for info. 314-324-0521

Inspired Food Culture

MAY 2011

89


puLL up a chair

TOLiX caFÉ chair

wrITTen by Erin Callier

Adopt a bistro feel in your breakfast nook or create a café experience on your patio with the French-made Tolix chair. A simple design circa 1927, the Tolix chair is experiencing a revival – popping up in all manner of stylish spaces, from industrial lofts to farmhouse-chic cottages. $245; Pottery Barn, multiple locations, potterybarn.com

Local designers pair the Tolix chair with outdoor-friendly dining tables that will transform your backyard into a bistro-esque oasis.

Canyon ChaT Table

“The natural teak of the Chat Table is a great texture to pair with the galvanized steel of the Tolix chair. Surrounding the table with the café chairs would offer a casual feel to any outdoor get-together. At only 21 inches high, this is a nice alternative to a dining table.”

90

no. 5 Table

“with its concrete top and steel base, the no. 5 Table by John beck Paper & Steel in edwardsville is a stunning, contemporary sculptural piece that is built to last. The table and chair are close cousins with their shared industrial and rugged feel – perfect for outdoor use.”

Vaux Café Table

“The Tolix chair is a timeless design, and pairing it with the Vaux Café Table offers a modern spin on a familiar product. The contemporary finish of the Vaux table melds well with the bistro-like nature of the chair. I could see this pairing on a patio, in a contemporary loft or a sunny breakfast room.”

Carolyn Peterson, Carolyn Peterson Design

Dana King, Dana’s Design Studio

David Schneider, Schneider Kennedy Design

$1,866; Carolyn Peterson Design, carolynpetersondesign.com

$5,800; John Beck Paper & Steel, johnbecksteel.com

$138; Schneider Kennedy Design, schneiderkennedy.com

feastSTL.com

MAY 2011


Missouri's #1 Automotive Group There Can Only Be One #1 Source, bureau of Missouri Automotive registration 2010.

MISSOURI'S #1 INFINITI RETAILER

WITH MISSOURI'S LARGEST INVENTORY

Best Over All Luxury Brand

G25 SEDAN, G37 SEDAN, G37 COUPE, G37 CONVERTIBLE, EX35, FX35, FX50, M37, M56, QX56

2011 INFINITI G37 Coupe

"WHERE PRICE SELLS CARS"

INFINITI West County

SALES - SERVICE - PARTS - COLLISION REPAIR

15736 Manchester at Clarkson Rd. • (636) 391-9400 • 800-367-2289 www.Bommarito.com

Based On 2010 Sales Summary Infiniti Motor Division, Nissan North America


White cotton dress, $118.

Call 1-800-345-5273 for a Dillard’s location near you.


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