October 2017 Feast Magazine by Feast Magazine

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Trees

are constantly “on the job,” working for us in incredibly important and surprising ways. They provide habitat for wildlife, cost-saving shade for our homes, and a host of wood products we rely on every day. Pecan and black walnut trees right here in Missouri provide the nuts we use in our favorite recipes. .

Learn how Trees Work for you at TreesWork.org.

Discover

Nature

hese not-so-sweet, nutritious muffins are wonderfully malleable and forgiving of just about anything you put in the batter. Add a few leftover nuts here, a handful of raisins or dried fruit there, or substitute rolled oats or wheat for part of the flour. You also can use whole wheat flour instead of white or varying proportions of each. I’ve even used part cornmeal. Sometimes I throw in flax, chia, or sesame seeds.

Bernadette© s catch-all muffins Makes about 20 muffins

1½ cups sugar 2¹∕³ cups flour 2½ teaspoons baking soda, sifted ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup oil 2 eggs 2 cups buttermilk 1 cup boiling water 3 cups wheat bran 1 cup golden raisins (or part dried cranberries, dates or figs) 1 cup pecans or hickory nuts (toasted lightly, preferably) Blend together first four ingredients (through salt) in one bowl and next three ingredients (oil through buttermilk) in another. Then, gently mix all seven together. Meanwhile, pour water over bran and fruit in a separate bowl; let stand a few minutes, then stir and gently combine with the batter. Stir in nuts. Pour into medium-sized muffin tins lined with paper cups. (Batter also will keep in refrigerator for at least a week.) Bake in a 400ºF oven for 15 to 20 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in muffin’s center comes out clean. Turn muffins onto a rack to cool.

Find more wild recipes in Cooking Wild in Missouri. Order yours at mdcnatureshop.com. Inspired Local Food Culture

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Bris ubanckc! h 4

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7337 MEXICO ROAD, ST. PETERS, MO 63376 | 636-387-7030

Inspired Local Food Culture

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Our steakhouse mixed with Italian flair, Bugatti’s proudly serves the finest steaks, seafood and Italian cuisine.

Reservations are always encouraged. To make reservations, call 636.940.4471 or book online at stcharles.ameristar.com

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october 2017

from the staff

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from the PUBLIsher

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dIgItaL content

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feast tv

Perfect match What’s online this month The dairy episode

dIne

pizza party

the year in beer

80 90

how John gilbreth made Pizza tree columbia, missouri’s “funnest” pizza shop

your guide to the biggest brewery news and best new brews of the past 12 months

| 18 |

on trend

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where we’re dInIng

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one on one

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one on one

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In season

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one on one

hip to be square slicing into the history of st. Louis-style pizza

make pizza like a pro

taylor Petrehn makes seriously delicious neapolitan-style pizza at 1900 Barker Bakery and cafe – and he’s sharing how you can make it at home, too

Detroit-style pizza Hugo’s Pizzeria, Wake the Dead, Hula Hawaiian Kitchen Kirk Kellough of Tuscono’s Woodfired Pizza and Pasta Steve Gleeson of Blues Fired Pizza Parsnips

Aaron and Regan Pillar of Culinaria Mediterranean Kitchen

drInk

| 32 |

on trend

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one on one

| 34 |

where we’re drInkIng

| 35 |

one on one

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the mIx

| 36 |

on the sheLf

New England-style IPAs Bradley Coker of Sparrow Malting Co. The Press Coffee & Juice Bar, Lakewood Local, Handcrafted by Bissinger’s Joe Zucco of Hungry Hollow Brewing Co. The Rattle Skull What to drink this month

shoP

TABLE OF CONTENTS PHOTO

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shoP here

| 44 |

get thIs gadget

| 46 |

one on one

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cULInary LIBrary

| 48 |

shoP here

| 48 |

artIsan ProdUcts

OF EArTHBOuNd BEEr iN ST. LOuiS (P. 68) By EmiLy SuzANNE mCdONALd COVEr PHOTO OF THE BáHN mì PizzA FrOm PizzA TrEE iN COLumBiA, miSSOuri (P. 63) By AArON OTTiS

Olea Estates Two-in-one pizza scissors and a pizza kit for your kettle grill Nathan Merrick of Craftbot Coolers Bianco by Chris Bianco Stone Solutions Vero Pizza & Pasta meal kits and Fireside Goods bottle opener

cook

| 52 | | 54 |

heaLthy aPPetIte

Root vegetable-ale stew mystery shoPPer

Pumpkin-seed oil

| 56 |

qUIck fIx

| 58 |

sweet Ideas

Beer-battered onion rings The ultimate chocolate chip cookies

Volume 8

| Issue 10 | October 2017

Vice President of niche Publishing, Publisher of feast Magazine

Catherine Neville, publisher@feastmagazine.com

sales

director of sales

Angie Henshaw, ahenshaw@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1298 account Manager

Jennifer Tilman, jtilman@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1205 sPecial Projects editor

Bethany Christo, bchristo@feastmagazine.com, 314.475.1244

eDITORIal senior editor

Liz Miller, editor@feastmagazine.com Managing editor

Nancy Stiles, nstiles@feastmagazine.com

Feast TV’s dairy episode features pasta with fresh clams, shrimp and a saffron cream sauce. This pasta is a perfect fall main course to pair with a farmhouse-style ale to cut through the richness of the sauce. Find the recipe at feastmagazine.com.

digital editor

Heather Riske, web@feastmagazine.com Kansas city contributing editor

Jenny Vergara st. louis contributing editor

Mabel Suen editorial intern

Jackson Roman fact checKer

Sara Alsup Proofreader

Erica Hunzinger contributing Writers

Christy Augustin, Ettie Berneking, Sherrie Castellano, Gabrielle DeMichele, Pete Dulin, Mallory Gnaegy, Rose Hansen, Hilary Hedges, Brandon and Ryan Nickelson, Justin Phelps, Matt Seiter, Jenn Tosatto, Huong Truong, Jessica Vaughn, Shannon Weber

aRT

art director

Alexandrea Povis, apovis@feastmagazine.com Production designer

Jacklyn Meyer, jmeyer@feastmagazine.com contributing PhotograPhers

Zach Bauman, Angela Bond, Sherrie Castellano, Anneka DeJong, Jonathan Gayman, Aaron Ottis, Jonathan Pollack, Jennifer Silverberg , Mabel Suen, Brad Zweerink

FeasT TV

producer: Catherine Neville production partner: Tybee Studios

DIsTRIbUTIOn To distribute Feast Magazine at your place of business, please contact Thomas Norton for St. Louis, Jefferson City, Columbia, Rolla and Springfield at TNorton@post-dispatch.com and Jason Green for Kansas City at distribution@pds-kc.com. Feast Magazine does not accept unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Submissions will not be returned. All contents are copyright © 2010-2017 by Feast Magazine™. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use in whole or in part of the contents, without the prior written permission of the publisher, is strictly prohibited. Produced by the Suburban Journals of Greater St. Louis, LLC

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publisher’s letter

izza and beer are perfectly matched. Yes, they taste great together, but what makes pizza and beer perennial favorites is their chameleonlike characteristics. Chefs and brewers can play around with innumerable flavor combinations, creating something new and surprising and fun – and keep us coming back for more. Take pizza: Its basic elements are crust, some kind of sauce or oil and toppings, which may or may not include cheese. Within that framework, everything is on the table. Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza with thin, blistered crusts. New York-style pizza, hand tossed and cut into cheesy, foldable slices. And Detroit-style pizza (p. 18), which presses cheese into a thick Sicilian-style crust and offers diners square-cut pillows with caramelized edges. St. Louis-style pizza is Detroit’s polar opposite. In River City, pizza is very thin and topped edge-to edge with a sweet tomato sauce, Provel cheese and toppings, then baked just a bit longer than you think it should be and cut into squares. Managing editor Nancy Stiles recounts the beginnings of this style of pie and the history of pizza in St. Louis, where ads from the 1940s instructed people on how to pronounce the new Italian delicacy (p. 80). While many stick with tradition in making pizza pies, John Gilbreth breaks the rules at Pizza Tree in Columbia, Missouri (p. 63). Digital editor Heather Riske brings you into the kitchen at Gilbreth’s “pizza spaceship machine” to see how his funky, artful pies are made. Favorites include the taco-inspired Corne Asada with corn purée, salsa verde and carne asada, and

the spicy-sweet bánh mì, which echoes the Korean sandwich with pork belly, housemade kimchi and chile oil. Every time I’m in Columbia, I stop by for a slice and I recommend that you do the same. If you’re in the mood to fire up the grill and try your hand at wood-fired pies, turn to p. 90. Senior editor Liz Miller talked with James Beard semifinalist Taylor Petrehn about how to recreate a fire-kissed pizza at home. His bakery, 1900 Barker Bakery and Cafe in Lawrence, Kansas, is lauded for its breads and pizzas, and Petrehn offers his tips and tricks for simple and simply delicious Neapolitan-style pies – the tomato, cheese and fermented-chile honey version is on my to-do list this fall. We round this month out with a sprinkling of beer stories throughout the issue as well as our annual The Year in Beer (p. 68) feature, which showcases the ever-growing beer scene. New releases, expansions and new breweries popping up all point to the continued expansion in craft beer. As with pizza, beer is a blank canvas, and brewers are playing with flavors and styles, seemingly with no limit to their creativity. As this issue attests, there’s great beer to be had in every corner of our region, so lift a pint and toast to the local beer scene, paired with a slice of pizza, of course. Until next time,

Catherine Neville

10.17

St. Louis family-owned since 1951

aaron ottis Columbia, Missouri Photographer “The downtown Columbia food scene is full of pizza joints, but you’ll have a hard time finding a place more popular than Pizza Tree. John Gilbreth and his crew dance to a different beat. The pizzas and shop reflect John’s quirky style. It’s full of pop art, progressive toppings and good people. I think I gained 10 pounds from this shoot. You can’t waste these slices!” (Pizza Party, p. 63)

B i r k ens t ock s ! back-to-school • culinary fashion • the whole family

justin phelps St. Louis, Writer “This is my second year contributing to The Year in Beer feature, and what strikes me most is that local breweries aren’t slowing down with innovation. Breweries are using new forms of hops, adding new styles to their portfolio, collaborating locally, adding new equipment to increase production, opening new locations and having inaugural bottle releases. And those are just the few breweries I was lucky enough to cover in this issue! I preach ‘drink local’ for a reason, and couldn’t be more excited for readers to see the amazing things Midwest breweries are up to.” (The Year in Beer, p. 68)

Laurie’s shoes 314-961-1642 Glendale - 9916 manChesTer rOad

Laurie’s eTC 636-532-0017 ChesTerField mall - (upper level OuTside dillards)

Lauriesshoes.com

12350 Olive Blvd Creve COeur By T.G.i.Fridays

314-434-4430 BirkensTOCksTl.COm

anneka dejong Kansas City, Photographer “Being a part of Feast’s October issue was a perfect opportunity to explore a few great local cafés. I really enjoyed shooting Wake The Dead in Lawrence, Kansas. It’s such a unique concept with a playful interior and menu. Who knew that donuts and Day of the Dead artwork (crafted by one of the owners herself) could be so cheerful! The team there is so friendly and truly enthusiastic about their concept. They insisted that the Unicorn donut was a must-try, and I certainly didn’t regret it! Definitely a fun, quirky place to grab breakfast or brunch in Lawrence.” (Where We’re Dining, p. 20)

rose hansen Neosho, Missouri, Writer “I’ve always been a sucker for stories about people who chase their ambitions without abandoning their roots. Joe Zucca of Hungry Hollow Brewing Co. grew up in the Ozarks and left the region to learn brewing skills with Boulevard Brewing Co. in Kansas City and Bike Rack Brewing Co. in Bentonville, Arkansas. His long-term goal was to open his own brewery in the familiar hills and hollows of his childhood, and today Hungry Hollow is thriving. Time and time again, people like Joe show us that your dreams lie where you make them – and that there’s just no place like home.” (One on One, p. 35)

RISTORANTE (636) 949-9005

•

www.FratellisRistorante.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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SchnuckS cookS: Beer-Battered onion ringS

STL

THE AMERICAN CONCEPT SERIES PRESENTS

10/18

Wed., Oct. 18, 6 to 9pm; $45; Schnucks Cooks Cooking School, 12332 Manchester Road, Des Peres, Missouri; 314.909.1704; schnuckscooks.com

In this class you’ll learn how to make a tangy piquant sauce to complement grilled pork tenderloin. You’ll also learn how to whip up a cake frosting made with wild ale.

WITH FARMER LEE JONES & GUEST CHEF JAMIE SIMPSON OF THE CULINARY VEGETABLE INSTITUTE

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 21

10/19

Indulge in a multi-course dinner prepared by Chef Simpson as the world-renowned Farmer Jones shares insights into sustainable agriculture and quality produce.

Thu., Oct. 19, 6:30pm; table prices vary; Hotel Muehlebach, 1213 Wyandotte St., Kansas City, Missouri; signaturechefs.org/kansascity

At the annual gathering of the area’s finest culinary talent in support of the March of Dimes, enjoy a tasting of the chefs’ creations before the live auction. Howard Hanna of The Rieger and Ça Va, has brought together acclaimed chefs from Kansas City and Chicago, all to benefit the March of Dimes’ mission to improve the health of babies by preventing birth defects and premature births.

LIMITED RESERVED SEATING 816.245.7331

March of diMeS Signature chefS auction

TheAmericanKC.com

Feast tV taSte & See: Wild gaMe and WhiSkey

STL

LEARN MORE AND SUBSCRIBE TO OUR E-NEWSLETTER AT TheAmericanKC.com

200 EAST 25TH STREET KANSAS CITY, MO 64108

10/20

Fri., Oct. 20, 7pm; $15; Public Media Commons, 3653 Olive St., St. Louis, Missouri; feastmagazine.com/events

As part of Craft Spirits Week, hearty dishes will make the most of the autumn harvest, paired with the best in local craft spirits. The event will feature segments from Feast TV, interviews with local chefs and live cooking demos.

An evening of culinary excellence

Signature Chefs Auction Kansas City

10/21

the aMerican concept SerieS: the chef’S garden Sat., Oct. 21; The American, 200 E. 25th St., Kansas City, Missouri; 816.245.7331; theamericankc.com

The American Concept Series presents unique experiences for culinary enthusiasts. This month, The Chef’s Garden will feature a multicourse dinner prepared by world-renowned farmer Lee Jones and guest chef Jamie Simpson of the Culinary Vegetable Institute, as well as insights into sustainable agriculture and quality produce. Space is limited, and reservations are required.

Howard Hanna, Lead Chef The Rieger and CaVa Muehlebach Hotel October 19, 2017 - 6:30 p.m. Chairs Jeremy & Erica Stalter and Co-Chairs Tom & Christi Miller invite you to attend the 5th Annual Kansas City March of Dimes Signature Chefs Auction. This year’s event will be held at the Muehlebach Hotel, Thursday, October 19th and will feature Lead Chef Howard Hanna of the Rieger along with local leading culinary talents.

SignatureChefs.org/KansasCity

11/10

JaMeS Beard foundation’S taSte aMerica: kanSaS city Fri., Nov. 10, 6pm; $275 premier dining, $375 VIP All-Star; The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art, 4525 Oak St., Kansas City, Missouri; jamesbeard.org

James Beard Foundation’s Taste America is wrapping up its 10-city tour in Kansas City on Fri., Nov. 10 at The Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art with a star-studded four-course benefit dinner hosted by James Beard Award winners Tony Mantuano, Debbie Gold and more. Tickets are on sale now, and tables are available.

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r! Ye a

14 O ur Saturday, October 14th / 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday, October 15th / 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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this month on

feastmagazine.com

PhotograPhy by ana Pierce

the feed

Discover the splendors of northern India with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to taste your way through the country with Feast publisher Catherine Neville.

sgf Skully’s food truck has a permanent new home: behind White River Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri. The truck recently debuted a new menu, including crab beignets, gyros and two creative takes on poutine.

The immersive 14-day trip, starting Jan. 18, 2018, includes unforgettable culinary experiences, featuring an exploration of Indian street food and trips through local markets in New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Jodhpur, Udaipur and Mumbai; in-depth and expertly guided tours with local English-speaking historians; and accommodation at five-star properties.

PhotograPhy by anna Petrow

PhotograPhy by mabel suen

Full itinerary and registration is available online at limitlessplanettravel.com.

Rick and Elisa Lewis’ much-anticipated Grace Meat + Three opened its doors last month in The Grove, serving a fresh take on Southern fare. Look for country-fried tofu, fried chicken, catfish and sweet tea-brined turkey legs.

KC In Lawrence, Kansas, RND Corner Grille has new ownership and a new menu focused heavily on local ingredients. Don’t miss the beef carpaccio, glazed pork belly or filet mignon with red beet and port reduction.

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the best itaLian “on the hiLL”

From our family to yours.

Part of St. Louis’ Historic Italian neighborhood known as “The Hill”. Here you have the opportunity to experience this unforgettable dining landmark. Reserve our year-round patio for your next private event - Call 314-772-4454 5201 southwest avenue | st. Louis, mo www.Favazzas.com

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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In this episode we’re taking you to the farm – and also giving you a fork. At Rolling Lawns Farm, four generations have been producing high-quality milk from a well-cared-for herd of Holsteins since 1910. Then we’re heading to a farm and creamery in Illinois where goat-milk cheeses share the table with farm fare at a series of chef-inspired dinners that bring consumers straight to the farm itself. In the kitchen, host Cat Neville makes shrimp and clams with fettuccine in saffron cream sauce.

The family behind Rolling Lawns Farm in southern Illinois saw opportunity to evolve their business with private label milk, a move that many are making to stay afloat.

At Ices Plain & Fancy in St. Louis, fresh milk from Rolling Lawns Farm and other local dairies is flash-frozen using liquid nitrogen.

The husband-and-wife team behind Prairie Fruits Farm & Creamery near Champaign, Illinois, bring in regional chefs to cook for their popular dinner series.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

Missouri Wines supports the more than 125 wineries operating in the state and is focused on promoting the industry’s growth and vitality.

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With a focus on sustainability and great design, IKEA is your destination for affordable, innovative and high-quality kitchen products.

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Kaldi’s Coffee is dedicated to creating a memorable coffee experience for customers and guests via sustainable practices and education.

Ole Tyme Produce provides some of the finest produce in the St. Louis region, serving restaurants, hotels, food service and catering companies.

The Raphael Hotel is Feast’s official hotel, offering luxury accommodations and dining near Kansas City’s Country Club Plaza.

Rockfair Tavern A Classic for More than 30 Years

Restaurant and Lounge 3 Blocks South of Route 66 506 S. Franklin St., Cuba, MO 65453 573-885-7518

In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

Join Us for BrUnch satUrday & sUnday 8 - 2

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

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You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Saturdays at 10am.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Saturdays at noon and Mondays at 12:30pm.

Check mylaketv.com to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

Inspired Local Food Culture

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FREE

P R E TZ E L ST I C KS & BEER CHEESE

Get a FREE order of our house-made warm Pretzel Sticks and Beer Cheese ($8 value) with a purchase of a menu item of $12.95 or more. Limited time only. Beginning October 1.

Exclusions may apply. Cash, credit and mycash® only. Cannot be combined with any other offers or discounts. Gambling Problem? Call 1.888.BETSOFF. ©2017 Pinnacle Entertainment, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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888.578.7289 | rivercity.com

reach for the pie

Restaurateur David Bailey ventures into pizza at Hugo's Pizzeria in St. Louis on p. 20. photography by mabel suen

detroit 'za

It's A Veg-A-Lution pizza at Hopcat in Kansas City, with mushrooms sautéed in a Porter-style beer, fresh spinach, marinated tomatoes and green peppers

Written by Liz MiLLer | photography by angeLa bond

Legend has it that Detroit-style pizza got its start in 1946 when bar owner Gus Guerra’s wife, Anna, made a pizza in a rectangular mechanics’ pan using thick Sicilian dough. The Motor City specialty has gained traction across the country in the past few years for its thicker crust and unique layering of cheese on bottom, followed by red sauce and then more cheese on top.

HopCat

Ziggy’s piZZa

KANSAS CITY. When garry boyd, vice president of food, beverage and innovation for barFly Ventures, was asked to develop a pizza menu for the grand rapids, Michigan-based chain HopCat, he looked for inspiration in his home state. “i thought, if we’re a Michigan company, and we’re going to travel and open locations across the country, it makes sense to serve detroit-style pizzas; we can take it to nebraska and Florida and Missouri,” he says. hopCat opened its first Missouri location in Kansas City in March – another location will open early next year in the St. Louis area – serving square versions of the Motor City staple. in the kitchen, balls of dough proof in square pans before they’re pressed into the sides and allowed to proof again. “the nickname of detroit-style pizza is ‘upside down:’ We put the cheese in first, after the dough, and we push the cheese in around the corners to create a cheese wall – dough right into cheese – so that when we bake it, that cheese will interact with the dough,” boyd says. a layer of red sauce is added next, followed by more cheese and toppings, and then the pizza is baked and cut into four large square pieces. popular pizzas include the hepCat with chorizo, Feta and red onion, and the Canadian, with bacon, cheese curds and green olives. head to hopCat for happy hour Monday through thursday from 3 to 6pm, when pizzas are $5 off.

WICHITA, KS. the ‘za at Ziggy’s Pizza, with two locations

401 Westport Road, Kansas City, Missouri, hopcat.com

multiple locations, Wichita, Kansas, ziggyswichita.com

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in Wichita, Kansas, is “semi-detroit-style” according to general manager david Weldon. the pizzas are baked in custom-made rectangular pans and aren’t quite as thick as what’s traditional in detroit, but are thicker than hand-tossed pies. Fresh dough, made daily, is stretched over the pans before sauce, cheese and toppings are added. popular pizzas include the Meat Me at ziggy’s with pepperoni, Canadian bacon, italian sausage, ground beef and smoked bacon, and the White delight, which combines cream cheese, grilled chicken, smoked bacon, green peppers and red onions and is served with a side of marinara sauce for dipping. “i was hesitant of it because i don’t like cream cheese, but as soon as i tried it, i was hooked,” Weldon says. pizzas are cut into eight slices with one exception: during lunch, the rectangular pies are cut into only six pieces and each is sold by the slice. “the most common reaction we get about the pizza is, ‘oh, it’s square, not round?’ it’s unexpected," he says.

For another take on Detroit-style pizza in the St. Louis area, try Humble Pie . This Ladue, Missouri, pizzeria offers a crispy, thin crust as well as a thick, airy Sicilian-inspired version. You can order either a half- or whole-pan of either style, and choose between its signature pizzas or opt to build your own. Learn more at eatthehumblepie.com.

FALL SEASONAL ITEMS

BAKED MAPLE PUMPKIN LATTE Real pumpkin, maple syrup, and cinnamon combined with espresso and milk topped with fresh whipped cream and grated nutmeg.

Porano Pasta ST. lOuiS. As its name suggests, Porano Pasta didn’t initially focus on

pizza when it opened in January 2016: The debut menu at James Beard award-winning chef Gerard Craft’s fast-casual Italian-inspired concept included build-your-own pasta and grain bowls. Within six months, executive chef Michael Petres introduced a personal favorite to the menu. “I was making Detroit-style pizzas in a cast-iron pan at home, and I’d put some of them on Instagram, and Gerard said, ‘Why don’t we do that here?’” he says. To make the pies, Petres cold ferments from-scratch, Sicilian-style pizza dough overnight and then portions it out in the morning; it then cold ferments again for half a day. Once at room temperature, it’s pressed into the corners of Porano’s 1-inch-thick pans, where it’s allowed one final proof before being topped, baked and cut into six squares. “The most popular pizzas are the Margherita and the pepperoni; the Margherita is just red sauce, a blend of mozzarella and Provolone cheeses and fresh basil,” Petres says. “The pepperoni is the same sauce and cheeses, and then pepperoni with some Romano cheese on top.” He adds that the pizzas have been hugely popular, allowing for “off-the-wall” specials like a cheeseburger pizza with pickles, raw onion, shredded lettuce, meatballs and a Dijonnaise sauce. 634 Washington Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, poranopasta.com

ICED ALMOND CHOCOLATE CHAI Firepot Rooibos Chai served over ice with almond milk and Ghiradelli chocolate.

KALDISCOFFEE.COM

where we’re dining From new restaurants to renewed menus, our staff and contributors share their picks for where we’re dining this month.

Wake tHe DeaD Written by Jenny Vergara

photography by anneka deJong

LAWRENCE, KS. in downtown lawrence, kansas, Wake the Dead lives up to its name by serving a menu that delivers an intoxicating sugar high from early morning until the sun has gone down and nearly come up again. Choose from an indulgent selection of both cake and raised donuts that changes daily – check social media for current offerings – in tempting flavors like unicorn cake, chocolate frosted, watermelon and Mango tang. on the savory side, there are “brinner” options such as fried chicken tenders with a side of eggs, or pancakes and bacon-filled breakfast sandwiches served on sliced, unglazed donuts. order a cozy coffee drink for a pick-me-up or choose to unwind with a Cereal killer: boozy cocktails like the honey nut Cheerios made with bourbon and barenjager, or the Fruit loops made with Malibu passion fruit rum. open since March and located upstairs from John brown’s underground, this new round-the-clock breakfast spot is already serving sellout crowds on weekends.

7 E. Seventh St., Lawrence, Kansas, wtdbreakfastbar.com

Hugo’s Pizzeria Story and photography by Mabel Suen

ST. LOUIS. baileys’ restaurant group can check another concept off of its bucket list: pizza. Hugo’s Pizzeria, which opened last month in the Midtown neighborhood of St. louis, is named after owner david bailey’s son. hugo’s specializes in pies with roman-style crust, cooked to order in a 550°F gas-fired deck oven. the debut menu features a variety of specialty pies like a pizza with garlic oil, mushrooms, Fontina and rosemary. twists on traditional

Hula HaWaiian kitcHen Written by ettie berneking photography by brad zWeerink

SPRINGFIELD, MO. Spot Spam on a menu, and you might question your dining destination – unless you’re in hawaii. Since opening last december in Springfield, Missouri, the fast-casual Hula Hawaiian Kitchen has brought island cooking to the mainland. Co-owner Finnet Falig hails from Saipan island in the western pacific ocean, and lived in hawaii before relocating to Springfield. in the kitchen, Falig slices and deep-fries discs of Spam as an appetizer, and wraps it over mounds of sticky rice to form sushi. along with his love of Spam, Falig and co-owner tingting liu have loaded the menu with hawaiian favorites. try a starter of salmon or tuna poké topped with rings of juicy pineapple, or a plate of Saipan mahi-mahi. there are also a handful of pan-asian dishes thanks to liu, a native of China. try the Spam ramen for a taste of hawaiian and Japanese flavor.

1730 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/hulahawaiiankitchen

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toppings include a housemade pepperoni featuring grass-fed beef; chicken and vegan pepperoni is also available. the 10-inch round pies start with a housemade dough aged for 24 to 48 hours, stretched and baked to a light and airy consistency with a pillowy chew. to balance the carefully developed flavors, a house sauce features notes of sweetness with spice. additional offerings include meatballs, wings and 30 draft beers. 3135 Olive St., St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/hugospizzeria

n eo o

q&A

kirk kellough

owner, tuscono’s woodfired pizza & pasta Written by Jenny Vergara PhotograPhy by zach bauman

BUCKneR, Mo. Tuscono’s Woodfired Pizza & Pasta has been serving new york-style pizza and from-scratch pasta dishes for more than two years in buckner, missouri, 30 minutes east of Kansas city. husband-and-wife team Kirk and rene Kellough bought the old post office building and opened the only locally owned restaurant in downtown buckner. the 150-seat tuscono’s serves a whopping 400 to 500 people a night with a staff of 54 in a town of about 3,000, making the restaurant the single largest employer in town.

What made you decide to open Tuscono’s? Several years ago, we got into italian cooking and making our own pasta at home. We had ordered this giant wheel of Parmesan cheese, and when it arrived, we both looked at each other and said, ‘that would look great in an italian restaurant.’ So, we drew up plans to renovate the old post office building into tuscono’s, and did all the remodeling ourselves to save money. What’s your best-selling dish? our customers, who come from all over to enjoy our food, love the variety of our daily specials; [for example,] on mondays we serve a prime-rib special, in addition to our regular pizzas and pastas. but overall, our best-selling item is the artichoke, spinach and chicken pasta followed by our fine selection of pizzas. Tell us about your unique pizza oven. We made it by hand – it’s a wood-fired pizza oven with gas assist that features a cook surface made from refractory brick, which rotates inside the oven for quick and even cooking. the oven gets to around 750°F; at that temperature, a pizza cooks in about two minutes. it creates a wonderful, chewy crust. Tell us about your two-time win at the International Pizza Challenge in Las Vegas. For the last two years, we’ve headed to Las Vegas to compete in the international Pizza challenge, and [we] placed at the top both times. this year, our pizza placed first in the traditional pizza category for the midwest region, and third in the world at the annual competition. our winning pie featured sweet italian sausage from carollo’s italian grocery in [Kansas city's] city market, roasted Peppadew peppers, mozzarella and housemade ricotta cheese. We did a unique braided crust that featured activated charcoal made from vegetable ash. Do you have plans to expand Tuscono's? yes, we decided to buy what was left of the building next door [which was damaged in a snowstorm] when we were remodeling, and we annexed it to our old post office to create additional dining rooms, bathrooms and a beautiful outdoor patio when we first opened tuscono’s. now, we’ve also acquired the building to our north and will open a wonderful new bar area featuring a tin ceiling from the 1920s and original wood floors from the 1800s this fall. We’ll also launch a brand-new italian-themed cocktail menu.

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steve gleeson co-owner, blues fired pizza

q&A

Written By Huong truong pHotograpHy By j. pollack pHotograpHy

kirkwood, mo. co-owners

Steve gleeson and tony lee originally launched Blues Fired Pizza as a food truck three years ago after working together at Domino’s pizza. they outfitted the truck with an impressive wood-fired oven to bake their 8-inch pizzas; gleeson and lee built the 2,000-pound oak-burning ovens themselves, which can cook eight pizzas at a time at a toasty 800°F. recently, Blues Fired pizza opened a drive-thru and walk-up stand in kirkwood, Missouri, and will launch a second food truck this month. What inspired Blues Fired Pizza? When my buddy Dave johnson, owner of curbside cookery, started his food truck in May 2012, i started working with him part time. We all came from Domino’s pizza together – he was my old manager. after i started following Dave around, i talked to tony, telling him about it. He came up with [the] idea of starting [a food truck], and i was interested. We just found a truck on craigslist and pulled the trigger. What’s the meaning behind the name? We’re always playing blues of some kind from the truck. We looked for music-themed names because of that. plus, i’m a musician. What’s the most difficult part of running a food truck? there haven’t been too many headaches; everything comes together pretty easily. We had tons of experience with pizza, so that part was easy. Building a brick oven ourselves was definitely a new experience, though. We had no idea what we were doing really, and used the internet to aid us. We’ve taken about 100,000 pizzas out of the oven so far; we’re getting up there. plus, the oven still works, so i guess we did it right! Why open a stand? the whole idea of opening the stand was to make the truck easier. Before, we were making our dough from scratch in a mixer on the truck. that got really old, because we didn’t have a lot of space. this stand has turned into our commissary and headquarters. We have employees [there] making dough and prepping for the truck. We don’t have to spend as much time running around and can focus on other things, like hiring more employees and working on business aspects like our [new] punch cards: one free pizza for every seven purchased. What’s your favorite pizza? that’s hard – i’d say probably the classic pepperoni, sausage and jalapeño. that’s my go-to. our chicken-bacon-ranch pizza is also pretty amazing! Same with the philly cheesesteak pizza. What’s next for Blues Fired Pizza? our brick-and-mortar is not dine-in at all. it’s a little stand with drive-thru only, plus three tables and 12 chairs outside. i’d like for us to open up a full restaurant. i’m sure there will be live music involved and beer. that’s definitely on the radar; right now, we’re just focused on our food trucks. 10800 Big Bend Road, Kirkwood, Missouri, bluesfiredpizza.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

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in season: october through november

parsnips Written by nancy StileS

Parsnips are an ideal autumn root vegetable: starchy and sweet, they look like white carrots but cook more like potatoes. Local chefs are roasting, puréeing and pickling the hearty root this season.

char Bar Kansas citY. Char Bar in Kansas city’s Westport neighborhood is known for its innovative approach to barbecue. but corporate executive chef Michael Peterson says about 20 to 25 percent of the restaurant’s clientele is vegetarian or vegan. in addition to serving barbecued jackfruit and other meat-free main courses at char bar, Peterson tries to have one or two salads at each of the restaurant group's other three restaurants – Mccoy’s Public House, beer Kitchen and the Foundry – that aren’t a standard bed of greens. the roots & Fruits salad starts with a base of red and golden beets and parsnips, which are tossed in olive oil, fresh herbs and sea salt, and roasted until just done. the vegetables are then chilled and tossed in a blackberry-red wine vinaigrette before being topped with orange segments, crispy brussels sprouts and parsnips, pistachios and goat cheese. Peterson says roasting is his favorite way to cook parsnips. “they have a higher starch content than carrots, so they cook more like a potato,” he says. “roasting caramelizes the outside but leaves the inside fluffy.”

4050 Pennsylvania Ave., #150, Kansas City, Missouri, charbarkc.com

Sanctuaria st. Louis. in Good company restaurant group executive chef

Marc rollins says the pickle board at Sanctuaria came about from experimentation last fall. “i thought a red pepper flake-apple cider vinegar [pickling brine] would accent the sweetness of the parsnips with a little bit of heat and the bitterness from the vinegar,” he says. the pickled parsnips are served alongside pickled cucumbers, carrots and rutabagas. this fall, the entire pickle board will be sourced from in Good company’s Foundations Farm in belleville, illinois. When Sanctuaria debuted the pickle board last year at a preview dinner, the parsnips and rutabagas ran out almost immediately. “they were something different that you don’t eat every day that everybody kind of gravitated toward,” he says. Pickles are served on a dark marble board, so rollins says the white color of parsnips added unexpected color to the presentation. “you’ve got a lot of greens, so it was a way to accent the color,” he says. 4198 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, sanctuariastl.com

Sycamore coLumbia, mo. at Sycamore in columbia, Missouri,

chef Mike Odette says he "sneaks" parsnips onto his fall menu. Many diners claim to hate them, he says, so he often uses them in a parsnip purée. to make the purée, he covers parsnips in foil and steam-roasts them until tender and then purées them in a food processor with cubes of cold butter and salt. “three ingredients. Guests love it, and often don’t realize they’re eating parsnips,” he says. “Sneaky? yes, but i claim many converts!” For fans of parsnips, he also serves them simply steam-roasted. He prepares them the same way as for the purée, although he roasts them uncovered for a few additional minutes “to color them a bit.” if you’re roasting parsnips at home, Odette says a little steam helps keep them from becoming too tough. “avoiding cutting them too thinly helps, too,” he says. 800 E. Broadway, Columbia, Missouri, sycamorerestaurant.com

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q&A

aaron & regan pillar

chef-owner & co-owner, culinaria mediterranean kitchen

asian CaFe Bar & Grill auRant in st ChaRles st Re e es am n et Vi d an #1 Chinese

County

Written by Huong truong PHotograPHy by zacH bauman

LAWRenCe, KS. Culinaria Mediterranean Kitchen was

founded by aaron and regan Pillar in 2009 as a catering service in Lawrence, Kansas; it's now grown into a full-service restaurant. the husband-and-wife team has years of experience in the culinary industry: aaron started out in kitchens at a young age while working as a musician, and regan has been crafting cocktails since college. this summer, the duo, along with general manager Sybil gibbs, have expanded culinaria into a vegetable-forward, from-scratch mediterranean restaurant.

happy hour everyday 5pm - 7pm Appetizers And drink speciAls

1260 Bryan road, o’Fallon, Mo 63366

(636) 272-4429

http://www.asiancafebg.com/

Ramen Tuesday 2620 S Glenstone Ave Springfield, MO 65804 (417) 864-6994 farmersgastropub.com

How did Culinaria originally come about? [aaron] and i had been a couple for five years. Since the beginning, i was always completely blown away by his cooking at home. We went to a few weddings, saw what the caterers were doing and thought, why not try it out ourselves? –Regan Pillar What’s your favorite ingredient to cook with? my favorite thing to cook with is not really an ingredient, but it’s essential: fire. if i have charcoal or a gas grill, i can make something cool. it adds that smoky charcoal flavor to anything – you can char meat, potatoes, vegetables, greens. –Aaron Pillar How has opening the restaurant impacted your lives? For me, the bigger impact is transitioning from purely catering to launching the restaurant. it’s really exciting because it’s a whole new way of getting to connect with people and the community. catering is a really great thing, but it also has some parameters that can be limiting. it’s fun to try new things and really get creative. –R.P. What’s next for Culinaria? it’s going to be about synchronizing the two parts of this business and creating something that flows really well [and] allows us to maintain our standards of excellence. also, we’re doing some community projects and donating to various causes like the [Lawrence] Humane Society’s capital campaign. We want to create a business that has the ability to help organizations in our community. –R.P. What’s your favorite dish on the restaurant's new menu? We do a pot-roast latke with Lebanese hot sauce that’s really good. We’re also doing a lot of fresh salads and vegetable dishes [that are] really flavorful without feeling heavy. –A.P. 512 E. Ninth Street, Suite A, Lawrence, Kansas, culinariafoodandwine.com

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P R O M OT I O N

chefs’

favorites Wondering what to order when you’re out to eat at some of the best restaurants in the St. Louis, Springfield and Kansas City areas? We went straight to the source and asked the chefs and owners what their first choice would be when selecting from all of the tempting offerings on their menus.

cowboy sampler

Allen Birchfield | Summit hickory Pit BBQ “The Cowboy Sampler has been a crowd favorite for more than 25 years, featuring slow-smoked, succulent pork, ribs, sausage and lip-smacking chicken.” 1012 SE Blue Parkway, Lee’s Summit, Missouri, 816.246.4434, thesummithickorypitbbq.com

roasted brussels sprouts and bacon chriStoPher leith | WeStPort SociAl

“I recommend the roasted Brussels sprouts and bacon because I’ve always liked heartier vegetables with pork, and it’s a fun way to pull it all together.” 910 Westport Plaza Drive, St. Louis, Missouri, 314.548.2876, westportsocial-stl.com

colorado lamb chops

beer can chicken

joe cizek |the rAPhAel hotel And chAz onthe PlAzA

nick freije | WeBer Grill reStAurAnt

“The six chops are complemented by the flavors of smoky grilled-chile broccoli, toasted almonds, fresh lemon, lemon balm, hollandaise sauce and the aroma of pink peppercorns.”

“Our method of using the Weber Backyard Brew with our roaster on the grill allows the chicken to take in tons of flavor while staying moist on the inside and crispy on the outside.”

325 Ward Parkway, Kansas City, Missouri, 816.756.3800, raphaelkc.com

1147 St. Louis Galleria St., Richmond Heights, Missouri, 314.930.3838, webergrillrestaurant.com

linguine pescatore

lobster mac & cheese

tony fAvAzzA | fAvAzzA’S reStAurAnt

chuck Soffner | ruth’S chriS SteAk houSe

“In case you didn’t know, I’m a pescatarian (vegetarian who eats fish), and I absolutely love this pasta with shrimp, clams and crab.”

“The three-cheese lobster macaroni side dish is a favorite among guests and staff because of its craveable, savory flavor; it’s a dish you won’t soon forget!”

5201 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.772.4454, favazzas.com

315 Chestnut St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.259.3200, ruthschris.com

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P R O M OT I O N

blackfish

scotch egg

noocH yAnnucci | cAFe cusco

Andy HAmpsHire | FArmers GAstropub

“Blackfish – blackened cobia over wilted spinach, portobello cap and yellow-pepper mashed potatoes – is our newest menu addition. It’s quickly become a hot pick with regulars.”

“One bite, and I am transported back to my childhood. For me, food is memories.”

234 E. Commercial St., Springfield, Missouri, 417.868.8088, cafecusco.com

2620 S. Glenstone Ave., Springfield, Missouri, 417.864.6994, farmersgastropub.com

black & tan nachos

vodka penne pasta

demetrius rivers | squAre one brewery And distillery

Giuseppe prezzAvento | trAttoriA Giuseppe

“A customer favorite, our house-smoked flank steak, roasted corn salsa and fresh jalapeño peppers set our nachos apart from others, and there’s plenty to share.”

“Vodka penne is one of our best-sellers on the pasta menu. The blended flavors of the ingredients make your taste buds come alive.”

1727 Park Ave., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.231.2537, squareonebrewery.com

5442 Old Missouri 21, Imperial, Missouri, 636.942.2405, trattoria-giuseppe.com

duroc pork steak with fried brussels sprouts and belly

tomato jam blt

dAvid sAndusky | beAst crAFt bbq co.

derek nortHwAy | soutHern

“This is the dish that challenged the status quo and put us on top – bold, charred and offensive to unbelievers.”

“I recommend this dish because it’s sweet, salty and savory. It is not like your ordinary BLT sandwiches.”

20 S. Belt W, Belleville, Illinois, beastcraftbbq.com 618.257.9000, beastcr

3108 Olive St., St. Louis, Missouri, 314.531.4668, stlsouthern.com

filet oscar

butcher’s board

dAmien tireGol | crAbby’s seAFood bAr & Grill

Austin HAmblin | tHe muddled piG GAstropub

“This dry-aged filet with sautéed lump crab meat was the first dish I ever ate at Crabby’s 12 years ago. It made me realize how much I wanted to work here, which led to my ownership.”

“The Butcher’s Board highlights techniques to preserve and utilize scraps to prevent food waste. Nothing beats a glass of wine and a nice, large charcuterie board to snack on.”

815 W. Seventh St., Joplin, Missouri, 417.206.3474, crabbysjoplin.com

2733 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, Missouri, 314.781.4607, themuddledpig.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Regional RestauRant guide

4 Hands Brewing Co. 1220 S. Eighth St. St. Louis, MO 314.436.1559 4handsbrewery.com

The Blue Owl 6116 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.464.3128 theblueowl.com

Cleveland-Heath 106 N. Main St. Edwardsville, IL 618.307.4830 clevelandheath.com

Favazza’s Restaurant 5201 Southwest Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.772.4454 favazzas.com

21st Street Brewers Bar 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.6969 21stbrew.com

Boundary 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7818 boundary-stl.com

Cork & Barrel Chop House and Spirits 7337 Mexico Road St. Peters, MO 636.387.7030 corkandbarrel.com

Fox & Hounds Tavern 6300 Clayton Road St. Louis, MO 314.647.7300 cheshirestl.com

Asian Cafe Bar & Grill 1260 Bryan Road O’Fallon, MO 636.272.4429 asiancafebg.com

Bur Oak Brewing Co. 8250 Trade Center Drive Columbia, MO buroakbeer.com

Crabby’s Seafood Bar & Grill 815 W. Seventh St. Joplin, MO 417.206.3474 crabbysjoplin.com

Fratelli’s Ristorante 2061 Zumbehl Road St. Charles, MO 636.949.9005 fratellisristorante.com

Aya Sofia 6671 Chippewa St. St. Louis, MO 314.645.9919 ayasofiacuisine.com

Cafe Cusco 234 E. Commercial St. Springfield, MO 417.868.8088 cafecusco.com

Delta Queen Port of Call 6035 Second St. Kimmswick, MO 636.223.7170 dqportofcall.com

Gallagher’s 114 W. Mill St. Waterloo, IL 618.939.9933 gallagherswaterloo.com

Balducci Vineyards 6601 S. Highway 94 Augusta, MO 636.482.8466 balduccivineyards.com

Capitalist Pig 2727 S. 12th St. St. Louis, MO 314.772.1180 capitalistpigbbq.com

Doc’s Smokehouse 1017 Century Drive Edwardsville, IL 618.656.6060 docssmokehouse.com

Great Rivers Tap & Grill 3559-B College Ave. Alton, IL 618.462.1220 greatriverstapandgrill.com

Basso 7036 Clayton Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.932.7820 basso-stl.com

Castelli’s Restaurant at 255 3400 Fosterburg Road Alton, IL 618.462.4620 castellis255.com

Duke’s 2001 Menard St. St. Louis, MO 314.833.6686 dukesinsoulard.com

The Grille at the Mansion 1680 Mansion Way O’Fallon, IL 618.624.0629 mansionsteakhouse.com

Beast Craft BBQ Co. 20 S. Belt W Belleville, IL 618.257.9000 beastcraftbbq.com

Cedar Lake Cellars 11008 Schreckengast Road Wright City, MO 636.745.9500 cedarlakecellars.com

Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard 10035 Edg-Clif Drive Potosi, MO 573.438.4741 edg-clif.com

Hidden Lake Winery 10580 Wellen Road Aviston, IL 618.228.9111 hiddenlakewinery.com

Bella Vino Wine Bar & Tapas 325 S. Main St. St. Charles, MO 636.724.3434 bellavinowinebarstl.com

Cellar House 6039 Telegraph Road Oakville, MO 314.846.5100 bottlecellars.com

Eleven Eleven Mississippi 1111 Mississippi Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.9999 1111-m.com

The Homesteader Cafe 100 E. Seventh St. #100 Kansas City, MO 816.474.8333 thehomesteadercafe.com

Belmont Vineyards 5870 Old Route 66 Leasburg, MO 573.885.7156 belmontvineyards.com

Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern 2101 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.4677 charlevillebeer.com

Endless Summer Winery 11 Grosse Lane Hermann, MO 573.252.2000 endlesssummerwinery.com

JJ Twig’s multiple locations jjtwigsstl.com

The Biergarten at Anheuser-Busch 1200 Lynch St. St. Louis, MO 314.577.2626 budweisertours.com

Chaumette Vineyards & Winery 24345 State Route WW Ste. Genevieve, MO 573.747.1000 chaumette.com

Farmers Gastropub 2620 S. Glenstone Ave. Springfield, MO 417.864.6994 farmersgastropub.com

Kaldi’s Coffee Roasting Co. multiple locations kaldiscoffee.com

Bissell Mansion Restaurant & Dinner Theatre 4426 Randall Place St. Louis, MO 314.533.9830 bissellmansiontheatre.com

Chaz on the Plaza at the Raphael Hotel 325 Ward Parkway Kansas City, MO 816.802.2152 raphaelkc.com

Farm to You Market Cafe 5025 Old Highway 100 Washington, MO 844.682.2266 farmtoyoumarket.com

Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria 9568 Manchester Road 14173 Clayton Road Rock Hill, MO | Town and Country, MO 314.942.6555 katiespizzaandpasta.com

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We encourage you to visit any of these fine establishments as proud supporters of Feast Magazine. From fine dining to fast casual to local wineries and breweries, there is an array of experiences to choose from, so support and eat local!

King & I 3157 S. Grand Blvd. St. Louis, MO 314.771.1777 kingandistl.com

Porter’s Steakhouse 1000 Eastport Plaza Drive Collinsville, IL 618.345.2400 porterscollinsville.com

Square One Brewery and Distillery 1727 Park Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.231.2537 squareonebrewery.com

Klondike Café at Montelle Vineyard 201 Montelle Drive Augusta, MO 636.228.4464 montelle.com

PW Pizza 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.7799 pwpizza.com

Stone Hill Winery 1110 Stone Hill Highway Hermann, MO 573.486.2221 stonehillwinery.com

LaChance Vineyards 12237 Peter Moore Lane De Soto, MO 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey 5065 State Highway N Cottleville, MO 636.244.0574 therackhousekww.com

Summit Hickory Pit BBQ 1012 SE Blue Parkway Lee’s Summit, MO 816.246.4434 thesummithickorypitbbq.com

Mai Lee 8396 Musick Memorial Drive Brentwood, MO 314.645.2835 maileestl.com

Ramon’s El Dorado 1711 St. Louis Road Collinsville, IL 618.344.6435 ramonseldorado.net

The Taco & Ice Cream Joint 2738 Cherokee St. St. Louis, MO 314.224.5799 facebook.com/tacoandicecreamjoint

Kansas City

Martin Brothers Winery 1623 Old Iron Road Hermann, MO 573.486.0236 martinbrotherswinery.com

Record Bar 1520 Grand Blvd. Kansas City, MO 816.753.5207 therecordbar.com

Three Sixty 1 S. Broadway St. Louis, MO 314.241.8439 360-stl.com

Springfield, Missouri

Molly Darcys 26 N. Meramec Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.863.8400 mollydarcyspub.com

Righteous Pig Bar-B-Que 124 E. Main St. Belleville, IL 618.520.8817 righteouspigbbq.com

Trattoria Giuseppe 5442 Old State Route 21 Imperial, MO 636.942.2405 trattoria-giuseppe.com

BY REGION: St. Louis St. Charles County

Columbia, Missouri

Mid-Missouri and Southern Missouri Southern Illinois Winery and Vineyard Brewery

Mount Pleasant Estates 5634 High St. Augusta, MO 636.482.9463 mountpleasant.com

Rockfair Tavern 506 S. Franklin St. Cuba, MO 573.885.7518 facebook.com/rock.fair.tavern

Vin de Set 2017 Chouteau Ave. St. Louis, MO 314.241.8989 vindeset.com

The Muddled Pig Gastropub 2733 Sutton Blvd. Maplewood, MO 314.781.4607 themuddledpig.com

Ruth’s Chris Steak House 1 N. Brentwood Blvd. #150 315 Chestnut St. Clayton, MO | St. Louis, MO 314.783.9900 | 314.259.3200 ruthschris.com

Vox Vineyards 1099 Welt St. Weston, MO 816.354.4903 voxvineyards.com

Noboleis Vineyards 100 Hemsath Road Augusta, MO 636.482.4500 noboleisvineyards.com

Sauce on the Side multiple locations eatcalzones.com

Weber Grill Restaurant 1147 St. Louis Galleria St. Richmond Heights, MO 314.930.3838 webergrillrestaurant.com

Visit

Feastmagazine.com to view the regional restaurant guide and read more about some of the places listed here.

Stay up to date with the latest restaurant news by connecting with Feast: feastmag

One 19 North Tapas and Wine Bar 119 N. Kirkwood Road Kirkwood, MO 314.821.4119 one19north.com

The Silly Goose 5501 Locust St. Augusta, MO 636.482.4667 sillygoosemo.com

Pappy’s Smokehouse 3106 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.535.4340 pappyssmokehouse.com

Southern 3108 Olive St. St. Louis, MO 314.531.4668 stlsouthern.com

Wild Sun Winery 4830 Pioneer Road Hillsboro, MO 636.797.8686 wildsunwinery.com

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spirited suds

This easy beer-rum cocktail pairs perfectly with pizza on p. 36. photography by jonathan gayman

New eNglaNd ipas WrITTEN By MALLOry GNAEGy

PHOTOGrAPHy By JACKLyN MEyEr

Less bitter than your standard IPA, New England-style IPAs are hazy, honey-and-amber colored easy-drinking beers. While the brewing process varies, it always involves dry-hopping during and after fermentation and less in the boil, which gives it a juicier, tropical-fruit-forward flavor and softer mouthfeel.

MaiN & Mill BrewiNG Co. FESTUS, MO. Main & Mill Brewing Co. co-owner and brewer Denny Foster thinks New England IPAs are more popular because people are moving away from the tongue-scraping bitterness of traditional IPAs – these are easier to drink. “It’s nice being able to grab more than one of these beers and know my palate isn’t going to get absolutely wrecked from bitterness,” he says. His own attempt at a New England-style IPA, Thursday Morning Incident, came from just that. Foster explains that the team wanted to brew a high-ABV beer with a pure hop flavor and little bitterness, which required more hops than ever before: six pounds per barrel. During the first dry-hopping, hops clogged the CO2 blow-off tube, causing a literal hop-bomb explosion of 9 percent ABV beer that went everywhere. Lucky for us, Foster and his team eventually got it right. “The beer is a great mix of hop flavor and aroma,” he says.

240 Main St., Festus, Missouri, mainandmill.com

Border BrewiNG Co. KANSAS CITY. For Eric Martens, owner-brewer at Border

Brewing Co. in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District, the increasing popularity of New England-style IPAs is a result of the overall trend in IPAs over the last five to 10 years. “We’re moving toward more balanced, less-bitter IPAs that focus on hop quality and character,” he says. “And I believe that's a good thing.” Martens likes pulling back on bitterness to highlight the hops’ flavor and aroma, plus the opportunity to use new techniques, processes and ingredients. “New England IPA is a style that's on the cutting edge, but what really excites me about it is that it seems to represent American craft beer at the moment – always pushing boundaries and trying new processes to make the best product possible,” he says. This was his approach when he first brewed Session, a special-release New England IPA at Border Brewing Co. He researched many other breweries in order to create a unique version of the style. It’s what he calls “lush, juicy with hop character but still light and sessionable,” – drinkable with an alcohol content lower than 5 percent. In fact, the popularity of Session spawned the brewery’s Experimental IPA series, which includes additional New England IPAs, among other styles. 406 18th St., Kansas City, Missouri, borderbrewco.com

Narrow GauGe BrewiNG Co. FLORISSANT, MO. At Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. in Florissant,

Missouri, head brewer and co-owner Jeff Hardesty has his own take on why New England-style IPAs are so in demand: They’re unique, and because some customers are initially put off by the haziness, there’s a certain degree of mystery surrounding them. Plus, it’s a good match for those who don’t like the traditional bitterness of IPAs. When Hardesty first attempted his own version of a New England IPA, he had a gold-standard in mind: The Alchemist’s Focal Banger. It took him a long time to get the color, mouthfeel, aroma and flavor just right. Today, Narrow Gauge produces several New England-style IPAs, including Fallen Flag, made with Citra and Mosaic hops. It’s Hardesty's personal favorite beer, and one of the brand’s core products; Fallen Flag variants make up 20 percent of its brews. 1595 N. U.S. Highway 67, Florissant, Missouri, narrowgaugestl.com

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bradley coker owner, sparrow malting co.

q&A

WrITTEN By PETE DuLIN

PHOTOgrAPHy By BrAD zWEErINk

SPRInGFIeLD, Mo. In Springfield, Missouri, Bradley Coker’s startup, Sparrow Malting Co., plans to produce locally grown, specialty barley malt – one of the four key ingredients in beer, in addition to hops, yeast and water – for local breweries. Coker is currently managing research and development in collaboration with Matt Woodward, a farmer in Freistatt, Missouri. Woodward will oversee barley variety trials and, eventually, full-scale grain production. Coker expects to be in trials by next summer.

Why produce custom malt for breweries? We want to make local beer more local. Outside of water and local ingredients (e.g., fruits), everything else [like hops] is grown far away from Missouri. We want to add value to Missouri farmland and support local farmers. We’ll utilize local wheat, rye and other cereal grains to provide specialty ingredients both locally and regionally. When we find barley varieties that grow well in southwest Missouri, we hope to develop house base malts in collaboration with brewmasters. Long-term projects might include sprouted-grain collaborations with local bakeries or the use of various malts in collaboration with local chocolatiers. Is there a market for specialty malts? There will likely be a considerable gap between malt demand and supply by 2020. By working with local farmers and university agriculture extensions now, we can have a considerable impact on lessening that gap for Ozarks breweries. We want to be at the forefront of sustainability and responsibility for the local grain supply chain. Local brewmasters have shown great interest; some have already brewed with our micro batches of malt. Tell us about your malts. In our experimental, micro-batch (around 12 pounds) phases, we have produced over 50 batches of a base pale malt, and made a few attempts at crystal/caramel malt. Because of the crude nature of micro-scale equipment, pale malt has been the easiest to reproduce with any consistency; the barley sources have been six-row varietals from Nebraska and South Dakota. A few award-winning homebrewers in the area have utilized these malts successfully in a traditional English bitter style, SMaSH (single-malt and single hop) IPAs and a few kettle sours. Phil Wages of Wages Brewing Co. [in West Plains, Missouri,] also created Sparrow Bitter [an English bitter], and that tap received many hits at his founders’ celebration in 2016. What’s your vision for Sparrow Malting? One, to serve local craft breweries in a sustainable way. Two, to learn from those already doing outstanding work in the craft-malting community. Three, educate craft beer fans and brewers about the vast flavors and nuances of locally crafted malt. In addition to an on-site malt-testing lab, we hope to offer educational opportunities for novices and pros through farmer and brewer weekends, malthouse tours and a small-batch brewpub. sparrowmalting.wordpress.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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where we’re drinking Check out what we’re sipping at bars, restaurants, breweries, wineries and coffee shops. The Press Coffee & JuiCe Bar Written by ettie berneking

photography by brad zWeerink

SPRINGFIELD, MO. The Press Coffee & Juice Bar in Springfield, Missouri, has something healthy for

nearly every mood or craving. there are cold-pressed juices for mornings when you need to detox, housemade nut milks when you’re craving something sweet, or blue algae lattes when you need a punch of antioxidants. Situated in the middle of Farmers park on Springfield’s south side, this corner café started out as Caffe bene before owner alice oh reopened it in april as the press. all her juices, smoothies and nut milks are made in house and use as much fresh produce as she can grow in the café’s raised beds and windowsill gardens. the housemade nut milks come in flavor combinations like vanilla-almond, matcha-cashew and brazilian chai, and are made with organic nuts. While oh offers the usual lineup of espresso drinks, the real stars are the more unusual items, including the blue algae latte made with spirulina, honey, ginger, almond milk and powdered cranberry. 2144 E. Republic Road, Springfield, Missouri, facebook.com/the-press-coffee-juice-bar-736344893182413

handCrafTed By Bissinger’s Story and photography by Mabel Suen

ST. LOUIS. recently retooled chocolate shop Handcrafted by Bissinger’s now offers a wide variety of pour-it-yourself options for tastings in St. louis' Central West end. the new beverage program is highlighted by a wine preservation system complete with three temperature-controlled cabinets divided into white, old World and new World varieties. pours are available in 2-, 4- and 6-ounce offerings at the casual café and lounge. additionally, an upgraded cocktail menu features options such as a seasonal Mule and our Signature, an indulgent drink made with bissinger's handcrafted Chocolatier chocolate liqueur, Chambord, housemade coffee liqueur and vanilla-infused vodka. try the upgraded coffee service, with everything from kaldi’s Coffee roasting Co.'s nitrogen-infused, cold-brew coffee to signature lattes that tie back into bissinger’s delicate confections; popular picks include bear claws, salted caramels and fresh cream truffles. For something a bit more filling, choose from a menu of sandwiches and snacks.

32 Maryland Plaza, St. Louis, Missouri, bissingers.com

Lakewood LoCaL Written by Jenny Vergara photography by anneka deJong

LEE’S SUMMIT, MO. life on the lake lends itself to a cold drink or two, which gave restaurateurs andy lock and chef domhnall Molloy – who own Summit grill, third Street Social and bōru ramen – the idea to open Lakewood Local, a new watering hole in lee’s Summit, Missouri, near lakewood lake. the two have created a comfortable, year-round bar for locals to enjoy whether it’s the height of lake season

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or not. the casual neighborhood spot opened this summer, delivering a lively lake theme and nine televisions streaming music videos and sports arcade games. the 3,200-square-foot, full-service bar's cocktail list features six seasonal handcrafted cocktails, along with a short list of specialty shots. guests will also find a selection of wine along with domestic, craft and import beers. the food menu features nachos, cheeseburgers and chili dogs made from fresh ingredients. 811 NE Lakewood Blvd., Lee’s Summit, Missouri, lakewoodlocalkc.com

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q&A

joe zucca

NEW AT

One 19 nOrth tapasas and Wine Bar

owner, hungry hollow brewing co. WRITTeN BY ROSe HANSeN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRAd ZWeeRINk

CASSVILLe, Mo. After quitting his post as brewmaster at Bike

Rack Brewing Co. in Bentonville, Arkansas, Joe Zucca returned to his rural Ozarks homestead near Cassville, Missouri, to produce premium beers in the backwoods under the name Hungry Hollow Brewing Co. In September, he and his wife, Veronica, officially opened their cozy brewery to the public, where they sell merchandise and beer. Hinged between a limestone bluff and a rural road, the brewery makes beers like the Three Point Five imperial IPA, with American and New Zealand hops and a heady zing. His beers hit stores and restaurants this month, but up until now, the whole operation was “pure hillbilly,” and that’s just fine with Zucca. Hungry Hollow Brewing is a self-described hillbilly operation. What exactly does that mean? Well, just look at our homemade, wood-fire steam-power house (pictured below). It’s hillbilly. I haven’t finished it to look nice, but it works well. It’s made from a keg and ceramic insulation, and my friend and I welded all the parts together. You just make your fire, put water in the keg, and make low-pressure steam to power the kettle. It’s all indirect and doesn’t affect flavor. Brewers usually just use a boiler, but to do that you need three-phase electricity. Out here, that’s not an option. We don’t have the power. You can do direct fire with a propane tank, but with the type of beer I’m doing, that would burn it. So my friend and I just figured, “Hey, let’s go wood-fired.” And it runs for $5. You consider yourself a "hillbilly" – what does that mean to you? I was born in California, but I grew up here and I love the country. Some people use hillbilly as a derogatory word, [but] lot of the “hillbillies” I grew up around are really smart guys basically living life without a lot of money, so they just use what they have. It takes ingenuity. That’s how I define hillbilly – just trying to make do with what I have. But it’s not easy, I’ll tell you that. Tell us about your beers. I’ve got two. We’re doing an imperial IPA called the Three Point Five. It uses 3½ pounds of Waimea, Mosaic and Glacier hops and a Cascade hop burst at the end of the boil, which is big for hop heads. The Ozark Farmhouse French Saison has a little less alcohol, about 8 percent, and it’s sweet, but fruity. I’ll be drinking Three Point Five [this fall]. It’s over the top, that’s for sure. I personally like it with barbecue.

Wine Lounge/private event party space

●

Rebecca Kibler Our Executive Chef after 6 years as Sous Chef has taken over at One 19 North preparing all fresh daily specials.

5501 Locust Street, Augusta, MO 63332 (636) 482-4667 Call for reservations!

Make your reservations today to enjoy the fresh entrees, the exquisite wine and light music that create an ideal atmosphere for a group of friends or the perfect date.

Nothing cures spring fever like the fresh flavors of our new seasonal menu. Enjoy southern comfort food at its best. Now accepting dinner reservations! Go to: Sillygoosemo.com to find out more! Like us on Facebook.com/sillygooseaugusta

119 North Kirkwood Road, Kirkwood, MO 63122

314-821-4119

www.one19north.com

balduccivineyards.com | 636-482-8466 6601 South Highway 94, Augusta, Mo ( between Dutzow & Augusta )

14396 Farm Road 2140, Cassville, Missouri, hungryhollowbrewing.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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The RaTTle Skull StoRy And REcIpE By MAtt SEItER photoGRAphy By JonAthAn GAyMAn

the Rattle Skull Boone County Brown Ale from Bur Oak Brewing Co. in Columbia, Missouri, or American Brown Ale from The Civil Life Brewing Co. in St. Louis work well in this recipe. SERVES | 1 |

Brown Sugar Syrup 1 cup brown sugar 1 cup water The raTTle Skull 2½ oz Diplomatico Añejo rum ½ oz fresh lime juice ½ oz brown sugar syrup (recipe below) 10 oz brown ale freshly grated nutmeg (for garnish)

| preparation – brown sugar syrup | In a small saucepot, combine both ingredients and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and allow to cool. Bottle and use as needed; syrup will keep in refrigerator for up to 1 month.

| preparation – the rattle skull |

In a pint glass, combine rum, juice and syrup. Add a little bit of beer and stir to incorporate, then top with remaining beer. Garnish with nutmeg.

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what's better than beer and pizza paired together? pizza and a beer cocktail, of course. It may seem like a new trend, but the practice of mixing beer and spirits goes back centuries. In colonial america, it was fairly common to mix beer or ale with hard liquor. The colonists guzzled drinks with names like Flips, Bellow-Stop, yard of Flannel and Stone Fence – each were a mix of beer and booze. There’s one such drink that I’ve taken a fancy to over the years: The rattle Skull. It mixes two of my favorite things, rum and dark beer. The name itself was a British slang term for a person who talked too much. at first, the flavors of the dark beer – this recipe uses brown ale, but The rattle Skull is also commonly made with porter – and aged rum, mixed with the tartness of the juice, are novel to a modern palate, so give it a few sips to start. once your palate gets used to the combination of flavors, you’ll start to taste pleasant, palate-sticking notes of semi-sweet dark chocolate, mocha and citrus. and with no ice, shaking or fancy techniques required, The rattle Skull is easy to make around a fall campfire. Matt Seiter is co-founder of the United States Bartenders’ Guild (USBG)’s St. Louis chapter, a member of the national board for the USBG’s MA program, author of The Dive Bar of Cocktail Bars and senior brand ambassador for Tom's Town Distilling Co. in Kansas City.

on The shelf : ocTober PIcks

WINE

eiChenberg Winery’s rubin haussehuh written by Hilary Hedges

Provenance: Cole Camp, Missouri PaIrIngs: Grilled rib-eye • Tomato and basil pasta • Dark chocolate

From its name to its winemaking style, Eichenberg Winery has always set out to reflect the rich german traditions of Cole Camp, Missouri. the winery’s Chambourcin, rubin Haussehuh – a reference to rubin hausschuhe, meaning “ruby-red slippers” in german – is a tribute to the owners' daughter-in-law’s love for The Wizard of Oz and the red wine’s beautiful ruby color. the grapes are sourced from a vineyard 10 miles from the winery and tasting room, which was originally built as a blacksmith shop in the early 1900s. dry and mildly oaked, the wine has bright fruit flavors and a hint of spice that leads to a smooth, soft finish. rubin Haussehuh is available in eichenberg’s tasting room and at select shops around Cole Camp.

325 S Main St, Saint CharleS, MO 63301

www.bellavinOwinebarStl.COM

Thanksgiving Day Buffet November 23rd 2017 11am to 4 pm

eichenbergwinery.homestead.com

Traditional Homestyle Thanksgiving Day Buffet Make your Reservation Call 636-223-7170

Hilary Hedges is a former newsie whose passion for wine led her out of the newsroom and into the cellar. She is currently director of sales and marketing and assistant winemaker at Amigoni Urban Winery in Kansas City.

BEER

urban Chestnut breWing Co.’s oaChkatzlsChWoaf written by ryan niCKelson

sTyle: Märzen-style lager PaIrIngs: Potato pancakes with spiced applesauce • Soft pretzels

6035 Second Street Kimmswick, MO 63053 636-223-7170 www.dqportofcall.com

Book your Holiday Parties Now! Holiday Gift Certificates Available!

with grain mustard • German sausage with sauerkraut oktoberfest in Munich dates back to 1810, and ever since, brewers have been perfecting the amber-colored, malt-forward beer. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.'s (UCbC) offering, oachkatzlschwoaf, warms the nose with a lightly sweet, almost caramel aroma, then hits the palate with an effervescent spice. this dissolves quickly into a malty, sweet toast flavor and finishes quite dry. look for it on store shelves and restaurant menus this fall, and especially at the newest UCbC in wolnzach, germany. urbanchestnut.com Brothers Brandon and Ryan Nickelson are available to help with beer picks and pairing recommendations at their store, Craft Beer Cellar, a craft beer shop in Clayton, Missouri, with an upcoming location in South City. To learn more, visit craftbeercellar.com/clayton.

SPIRIT

Mean Mule Distilling Co.’s silver aMeriCan agave spirit written by Jenn tosatto

Provenance: Kansas City (40% abV) Try IT: over ice with soda and a citrus twist

this is not tequila – but that’s simply a matter of geography. while tequila must be produced in Jalisco, Mexico, Mean Mule Distilling Co. distills in Kansas City from blue agave. the spirit is smooth and slightly sweet, with wonderful notes of fruit – most notably pineapple – and just a hint of the pepper that is usually associated with agave spirits. the silver is subtle, and goes down smoother than many of its Jaliscan counterparts. it’s also light and nuanced, making it a very useful stepping stone for those who don’t normally drink tequila and mezcal. meanmuledistilling.co You can find Jenn Tosatto running the bar at Mission Taco Joint's newly opened Kansas City location. She also loves donating her skills to many charity events around the city, as well as working private events. Inspired Local Food Culture

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P R O M OT I O N

chandler hill Winery Martin Brothers Tuscan Charm and Winning Wines The stunning 42 acres of Chandler Hill Vineyards – just 30 minutes west of St. Louis – offer award-winning wines, an on-site organic garden, sophisticated fare and exemplary service. Its hilltop tasting room also boasts a 4,500-square-foot terrace with serene, panoramic views. Located in Defiance (the heart of Missouri wine country), the Tuscan-inspired Chandler Hill is open year-round. Private tours are available and showcase the history of the property and the winery. Guests can also learn about Chandler Hill’s vineyard practices and the wine-making process. Stop by to enjoy incredible wines and an unforgettable experience at one of the most exquisite wineries in the region. 596 Defiance Road, Defiance, Missouri, 636.798.2675, chandlerhillvineyards

Augusta Winery fall fun including live music weekends Augusta Winery is locally owned and operated: The grapes are grown in the Augusta American Viticultural Area, and

the wine is made right in town. Owner and winemaker Tony Kooyumjian has almost 40 years’ experience producing award-winning wines from local estate vineyards. To try the breadth of its complex and flavorful Missouri varietals, the Augusta tasting room offers a $5 tasting that

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includes your choice of five wine samples ranging from dry to dessert, both white and red, guided by a knowledgeable staff member. Plus, every Saturday and Sunday through October, the Wine & Beer Garden features live music from 1 to 5pm. Just in time for fall is the release of the highly anticipated small-batch Fine Old Tawny Port, made from a blend of several specially selected grapes that have been grown in its vineyards for decades. Expect a soaring bouquet of roasted nuts, dried fruit, butterscotch and nutmeg. The aromas flow seamlessly to a rich, warming taste with a long, glowing finish. Other must-trys are its 2014 Norton and semisweet 2016 Vignoles, which recently won big at the 2017 Mid-American Wine Competition. 5601 High St., Augusta, Missouri, augustawinery.com

Winery

Fermentinghoneytomake award-winning Missouri mead

Martin Brothers Winery in Hermann, Missouri, specializes in making mead, a wine fermented from honey. Many people associate sweetness with honey, but they often overlook the whole world of complex flavors hidden in each rich drop. Mead has a full range of flavor profiles, from sweet to true dry, fruit-forward to floral bouquets, and even rich spice notes. Within two years of opening in 2014, Martin Brothers Winery rapidly accumulated nearly 20 national and international awards with just a few mead offerings. The success is a reflection of the myriad backgrounds of the Martin Brothers team, who use engineering, chemistry, biology, culinary and winemaking experiences to enhance the varietal character of their honey, from harvest to palate. During the summer months, migratory beekeepers follow the nectar flow up north to the lucerne fields. Nectar has been cultivated predating the ancient Greeks and has been used by beekeepers for centuries due to its approachable flavor and yield. Honey being such a precious and expensive ingredient, Martin Brothers’ primary goal is to bring forth all that varietal character to entice the senses, whether the bees gathered nectar from orange trees, lucerne fields or even seasonal wildflowers.

The honey itself has subtle notes of lavender and vanilla with a rich spice profile. Martin Brothers’ traditional mead brings out hints of clove spice, cinnamon and grilled Fuji apple, along with the lavender and vanilla notes. It pairs well with anything fresh from the grill or smoker: pulled pork, beef brisket and holiday fare like honey-glazed ham or stuffed turkey. The wildflower meads highlight notes frequently found in wildflower honey to create a stone fruit-forward profile of pineapple, green apple and citrus notes that can have a range of food pairings from sharp Irish Cheddar cheese to barbecue poultry dishes to sizzling steak fajitas or kebabs right off the grill. The wildflower dry mead goes even deeper to highlight the subtle citrus notes hidden in wildflower honey. A rich lemon profile with notes of sautéed almonds and lemon zest pairs well with cedar plank-grilled salmon or chicken alfredo pasta topped with melted Swiss cheese. Along with its tasting room, Martin Brothers Winery meads can be purchased throughout the state, a list of which can be found its website. 1623 Old Iron Road, Hermann, Missouri, 573.486.0236, martinbrotherswinery.com

photography by jayson carey photography and madison sanders photography

P R O M OT I O N

Montelle Winery LaChance Vineyards French country charm with a Tuscan feel some of the best fall views and In a comfortable Adirondack in the courtyard, your view of the rows of vines underneath a purple- and pink-hued sky at LaChance Vineyards are just as captivating as the refreshing and distinctive glass of wine in your hand. The De Soto, Missouri, winery is owned by the Hamby family, who turned the small farm that had been in the family for decades into an 80-acre vineyard and

the Loire Valley in France. LaChance is one of the first vineyards in the state to grow Doré in Missouri. After five years, LaChance is excited to have just had its first harvest of Aphrodite, a brand-new varietal. The winery is aiming to produce a crisp, semisweet white wine with the grape, which will debut in spring 2018. For food, choose from LaChance’s lunch or dinner menu with a curated selection of perfect-to-pair offerings like stuffed chicken breast with local vegetables and rosé pan sauce for dinner, as well as braised pork shank and a fall salad. For lunch, lighter options like flatbreads, sandwiches and shareables are available. Whether you choose to relax in the casual elegance of the indoor tasting room or outside on the patio or deck, a visit to LaChance provides the best of both worlds: a charming, intimate winery experience with first-class amenities that will inspire you to visit again and again. 12237 Peter Moore Lane, De Soto, Missouri, 636.586.2777 lachancevineyards.com

special-events space. The vibe at the winery might best be described as French-country charm with a Tuscan feel: It’s an intimate and comfortable setting with outdoor decks and courtyard patios, stone water features, open green spaces for milling and plenty of seating to enjoy the views of rolling hills and grapes ready for harvest. Although fall is the best time to visit, the indoor tasting room is open year-round for $5 tastings of its selections. LaChance might be best known for making wines using French-style grapes that thrive in Missouri – specifically its dry red Crimson Cabernet, reminiscent of a European-style Cabernet, and its Doré, a unique dry white varietal redolent of Sauvignon Blanc from

award-winning wine in America’s first AVA

From 400 feet above the Missouri River Valley, Montelle Winery has some of the best views in the fall. It’s easy to lose track of time during long autumn afternoons spent gazing at the breathtaking foliage painted with iridescent fall colors and a glass of Montelle’s award-winning wine. In fall months, the Himmelswein is a top pick by visitors, who enjoy the hints of green apple in the crisp white wine. Chambourcin is another popular choice: The medium-bodied, well-balanced dry red is perfect for milder temperatures and puts some color back in your cheeks when the weather turns chilly. Recently, the 2016 Dry Vignoles won best of class and gold at the 2017 Pacific Rim International Wine Competition, and the 2016 Seyval Blanc won best varietal and gold at the 2017 Missouri Wine Competition. Throughout the years, Montelle’s wines have earned numerous awards from around the world, including several best-in-show designations in California contests, Best Imported White Wine to Germany and, most notably, four Missouri Governor’s Cups. And it’s no wonder why the wines are so acclaimed – owner and winemaker Tony Kooyumjian comes from three generations of vineyard owners and grape growers. Kooyumjian initially decided to choose a

career in aviation and was able to travel the world and discover fine wines in various countries. His appreciation of wines, along with a statewide resurgence to reestablish the Missouri wine industry, led him to reopen the Weprich Winery in St. Charles (later renamed Winery of the Little Hills). Although he never received a formal education in enology, Kooyumjian attended numerous short courses at various universities and read and researched the subject extensively. His first vintage, in 1980, was 1,000 gallons (420 cases) of wine. In 1988, Kooyumjian moved to Augusta, Missouri, and established Augusta Winery in the center of the town. Augusta is historically known for its fine wines and is the location of the United States’ first-designated American Viticultural Area. In 1998, Kooyumjian purchased Montelle Winery, 1½ miles east on Highway 94, which was first established in 1970. In 2001, Kooyumjian made the decision to retire early from the airlines and devote all of his energy to producing fine wines in Missouri. Kooyumjian lives at his vineyards in Augusta with his wife, Cindy. They have five children: Maria, Niki, Angela, Tom and Danny, as well as many wonderful grandchildren. 201 Montelle Drive, Augusta, Missouri, montelle.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

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P R O M OT I O N

Edg-Clif Farms Noboleis Vineyards from vintage farm head for this hilltop winery & Vineyard to thriving vineyard The family behind Noboleis Vineyards in Augusta, Missouri, knew they had a good thing on their hands since the very beginning. Founded in 2005 and opened in 2010, the 84-acre hilltop winery started with four grape varieties – Chambourcin, Traminette, Norton and Vignoles – which went on to produce award-winning wine within just two years, including gold for Vignoles and Traminette in the Missouri Wine Competition. Since then, Noboleis has expanded its portfolio to 23 offerings and has won many additional regional and national awards: For example, in the 2016 Missouri Wine Competition, its Norton won the lauded C.V. Riley Award, which names the best Norton in the state. Along with the four original

varietals, must-trys include the Dry Vignoles, Noboleis Blanc and Steepleview, a light-bodied, off-dry red with fruity aromas and a mellow finish.

Named for the original stone house built in 1862 into the side of an 80-foot limestone cliff in Potosi, Missouri, where the familyowned winery is located, Edg-Clif’s winery opened in 2011 and grows its grapes for most of its hand-crafted, small-batch wines. The artisanal dedication to quality has produced many national and regional awards for the fresh and intensely flavored wines; best-sellers include Chambourcin Classic and Chambourcin Reserve, Vidal Blanc and Vignoles, which are all three varietals made from French-American hybrids grapes grown on premises.

Head to the tasting room with a group of family and friends for the day to try these wines and experience the vineyard views. Stay for lunch (including a menu of appetizers and delicious pizzas) and live music every Saturday and Sunday. 100 Hemsath Road, Augusta, Missouri, noboleisvineyards.com

Belmont Vineyards wine and dine in the rolling Ozark hills Jeff and Trish Voss offer plenty of ways to get your kicks at Belmont Vineyards. Located on a farm in the Ozark Highlands on Route 66 just off Interstate-44 in Leasburg, Missouri, the winery produces boutique wines reminiscent of old-world European styles and features an outdoor pavilion for live music on the weekends, covered porches, picnic grounds and a flourishing garden. Of course, views of the rolling Ozark hills are best paired with a glass of fine wine. Recently debuted just in time for fall weather is Bella Rosso, a dry red blend of Norton, Cabernet and Merlot with fruity aromatics, coffee notes and a spicy finish. Other standouts include Cayuga, a delicate Riesling-style wine, and Brave Heart, a light red with notes

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In the heart of wine country, a 550-acre vintage farm is home to four generations of the Knapp family, a herd of 150 bison and 3,200 vines spread among 7 acres of vineyards, all of which make up Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard.

of blackberry whose name is a nod to Jeff’s military service. Belmont is quickly becoming a destination for dining as much as the winery. A casual menu offers specialty and build-your-own pizzas, small appetizers and burgers, or a robust dinner menu offers a more fine-dining experience with daily and seasonal specials. Along with fresh salads and greens, entrées include fresh Maryland crab cakes, New York strip, Feta-and-spinach-stuffed chicken roulade and ravioli Florentine. Reservations are encouraged to enjoy Belmont’s flavorful fare, vino and views. 5870 Old Route 66, Leasburg, Missouri, 573.885.7156, belmontvineyards.com

Fall is the time to bring on the rustic, full-bodied, barrel-aged wines, including the introduction of the 2015 Chardonel, which is a dry white varietal made from the

grape hybrid of Chardonnay and Seyval. The sunny yellow wine was aged in Hungarian oak barrels and is finally ready to be savored. The new Chardonel label features a charming cow etching that pays tribute to Edg-Clif’s history in the pure-bred Hereford cattle business for more than 60 years. The farm was founded in 1926 as a horse farm and hunting and fishing retreat, and over the years, it grew to be one of the largest cattle ranches in the Midwest. Among the multiple expansions and restorations at Edg-Clif was the planting of 2,500 vines in 2008. With the opening of the winery three years later, visitors can now enjoy the opportunity to try all of its offerings in a picturesque setting on one of the highest points in Missouri overlooking views of the Fourche a Renault river valley. Another of the more recent expansions was the new line of Edg-Clif craft beers in 2016, also available at the tasting room. Plus, the best part about visiting is meeting the owners in the tasting pavilion or vineyard; they are happy to share their passion, stories and knowledge for growing and making wine. 10035 Edg-Clif Drive, Potosi, Missouri, 573.438.4741, edg-clif.com

P R O M OT I O N

Endless summer unique wines in hermann, winery from pineapple to pecan When you think of wine, you think grapes. At Endless Summer Winery, however, owner and winemaker Gary Hoover has been successfully making wine using practically everything but since 2011. His most popular offering is a pineapple wine, described as semisweet, smooth and tropical. Other best-sellers include jalapeño-raisin and pecan-maple, the latter of which Hoover says took nine years to perfect and is sold in limited quantities. USDA-certified-organic pecans grown in southwest Missouri, which have a sweeter taste, are combined with golden raisins and Vermont maple syrup to give the wine its signature nutty and buttery flavor. All Endless Summer wines are made as much as possible from locally sourced ingredients and include no artificial flavors, colors or juices. Gary, along with wife, Lois, and son, Mark, founded Endless Summer after making wine as a hobby for more than 20 years.

Wild Sun Winery a zenlike escape from the city

Although just a short drive from St. Louis, Wild Sun Winery transports you a world away. Nestled in the hills of Jefferson County in Hillsboro, Missouri, this spacious country estate features an 1870s-era main house and parklike surroundings filled with large trees, rolling hills and a picturesque view through the valley.

Other varietals include elderberry, blueberry, cherry, raspberry-chipotle, blackberry, pear, peach, strawberry, cranberry-tangerine and habanero. Many of Endless Summer’s wines can be used for cooking, including a Drunken Shrimp recipe on its website using the pineapple wine as marinade. In June, Endless Summer began making a pineapple-habanero drizzle from its wines to add a sweet-and-spicy touch to chicken, pork and fish. Recently, the winery introduced refreshing wine slushies at its tasting room in Hermann, Missouri. A visit always includes free tastings, a relaxing afternoon on the covered patio among beautiful vegetation and scenery, as well as live music on the weekends. The winery encourages visitors to pack a picnic basket, although there is a limited food menu of local sausage and cheeses available.

Wild Sun is the collaborative result of co-owner and president Edward Wagner, who spent 17 years with Anheuser-Busch in sales and marketing, and co-owner, vice president and winemaker Mark Baehmann, who has spent 30-plus years making wine at some of the state’s top wineries including Montelle Winery, Chaumette Vineyards & Winery and Mount Pleasant Estates. Regardless of your preference – red or white, sweet to dry – you are sure to find the perfect wine at Wild Sun. Notables include its Cabernet Sauvignon, Norton and the portstyled dessert wine Eclipse, which earned gold from the Beverage Tasting Institute. Most recently, the winery introduced a white port. Wild Sun also boasts a simple menu to complement its wine, including pizzas,

breads, burgers and desserts. Picnic baskets are also welcomed. Live music happens Friday nights and weekend afternoons from May through October. With the celebration of its second anniversary last month, Wild Sun has exciting endeavors on the horizon; stay tuned for the introduction of a tawny port, Champagne and the long-awaited Wild Sun line of beers. 4830 Pioneer Road, Hillsboro, Missouri, 636.797.8686, wildsunwinery.com

Vox Vineyards Nurturing Native grapes just north of Kansas City Producer of TerraVox Wines, Vox Vineyards cultivates more than 40 native grape varieties. These internationally award-winning fine wines are 100-percent estate-grown and available to taste and purchase in historic Weston, Missouri.

Along with the tasting room, Endless Summer Winery’s products are available to purchase in a handful of retail locations across the state, including Friar Tuck (Missouri only), Happy Hour in Independence, Macadoodles in Columbia, Willow Spring Mercantile in Excelsior Springs, and Russ and Rena’s Place in Rolla. It can also be shipped to residents in Missouri.

1099 Welt St., Weston, Missouri, 816.354.4903, voxvineyards.com

11 Grosse Lane, Hermann, Missouri, 573.252.2000, endlesssummerwinery.com

The Terrace at French Village relax at a wine-filled getaway A weekend visit to The Terrace at French Village, an hour south of Downtown St. Louis, means a relaxing day on its open-air patios overlooking breathtaking views, listening to live music and sipping wines made from Missouri-grown grapes. Light food items are available, and picnic baskets are welcome. 6188 Highway Y, French Village, Missouri, 573.358.7177, theterrace.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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dough to doorstep

Become a pizza pro with Vero Pizza & Pasta meal kits on p. 48. photography courtesy vero pizza & pasta

Olea estates sTorY anD phoTographY bY mabel suen

MARYLAND HEIGHTS, MO. at Olea Estates’ new retail outlet in

maryland heights, missouri, visitors can shop for high-quality olive oil shipped straight from a fruitful grove in sparta, greece. olea estates, which was founded in 1856, features handpicked, cold-pressed extra-virgin olive oils produced with traditional organic methods on a 25-acre orchard in greece with 1,500 olive trees. In 2009, co-owner george Chronis decided to bring his family’s trade to the st. louis area, where he lives with his wife, Jessica, a missouri native, after more than 150 years of cultivation to breathe new life into the four-generations-strong business. What began as a small bottling operation to vend at the Kirkwood farmers’ market grew into large-scale goods shipped directly from the olive grove. olea estates moved its base of operations to its current maryland heights home in february. The 2,156-square-foot space features a large warehouse, office and small boutique where visitors can purchase signature olea and olea gold by the bottle or tin as well as handpicked Kalamata olives, cracked green olives and more. “We spend so much time and effort in the process of harvesting. You can really tell in the taste. It’s low in acidity and [flavor] really shines through,” Jessica says. “We have that direct connection with the farm; because we live here, we’re able to keep the price affordable.” olea gold – fruity with a slight bitterness and a lingering peppery finish – is made with unfiltered, early-harvest olives and is great as a finishing oil for salad dressings and hummus. alternatively, original olea olive oil is the product of ripe Kalamata olives, and is great as a multipurpose oil for cooking. In addition to olea estates mainstays, guests can also find a variety of goodies from greece. Choose from olive-oil soap, handpicked dried herbs, honey and more. Three varieties of all-natural muesli will be available this month, and vinegar, sea salt and additional varieties of greek honey will be available in march 2018. Custom wooden serving boards are also available, as well as handmade candles made with olea bottles by local crafter my big fat greek Candle. 2566 Metro Blvd., Maryland Heights, Missouri, oleaestates.com

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pizzaque pizza kit grilling a pizza is a great way to get a crispy crust, but it can be tough to gauge temperature and doneness at home. The pizzaQue pizza Kit includes a stainless steel kettle converter with a thermometer, a screen to protect your pizza from charcoal, a pizza stone and a 13-inch pizza peel. For more information or to purchase the kit, visit pizzacraft.com. phoTo CourTesY pIzzaCrafT

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n eo o

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q&A

nathan merrick owner, craftbot coolers WrITTeN By HuONG TruONG

st. louis. Inspired by craft beer and his travels, Nathan Merrick started

Craftbot Coolers – formerly known as Craft Beer Coolers – with his wife, Catherine, in January 2015. Craftbot produces collapsible wooden jockey box-covers and beverage coolers with custom labels (including the St. Louis flag and logos for clients like Springfield Brewing Co. in Springfield, Missouri, and O’Fallon Brewery in Maryland Heights, Missouri). Coolers come in 28- and 68-quart rollers, plus a 10-gallon jug or the jockey-box covers. Merrick says he wanted to help craft breweries market themselves through his branded coolers and boxes; he changed the company’s name as he began working with beverage companies beyond beer. Together, the Merricks are working toward making Craftbot Coolers the go-to for craft beverage companies to take their branding to the next level. Why did you start Craftbot Coolers? I love to travel, and to sample craft beer. It’s interesting visiting breweries, because it’s a great way to discover unique parts of towns. Coolers and jockey-box covers seemed like a great product that these companies needed. Who were your first customers? Our first cooler order came from Kevin Lemp and 4 Hands Brewing Co. They were the first brewery I called on. They were terrific to work with, and the coolers really showcased their brand. Our first order for a jockey box-cover came from Green Man Brewery in Asheville, North Carolina. What’s your favorite part of Craftbot Coolers? My favorite part is the people you meet. It’s great to visit cities, see the process, the branding, the way people design their breweries and how people are so proud of their tanks, processes and what they brew. At the same time, we work a lot with cider, tea and other beverages companies. We also work with sports teams that buy our logo coolers. It’s been exciting to see the amount of people loving the products. What’s next for Craftbot Coolers? There are new breweries opening every day, and we’re going to continue to [reach out to them]. We’re also introducing a couple of new products and offerings soon, like a 10-gallon water jug for sports teams. We’ll continue to work with breweries to think outside the box, too. Alpha Brewing Co. in St. Louis has a drinking club called the Sipsters. When a Sipster drinks their 500th beer, they get a customized Alpha Brewing Co. cooler [made by Craftbot]. craftbotcoolers.com pHOTOGrApHy By J. pOLLACK pHOTOGrApHy

Bianco WrITTeN By HuONG TruONG

A family trip to rome when he was just 13 years old spurred Chris Bianco’s belief that making great food requires attention and intention. For Bianco, a James Beard award-winning chef who owns pizzeria Bianco in phoenix, it all began with pizza. In his new cookbook, Bianco, he details the basics of making pizza dough and fresh tomato sauce with canned tomatoes. recipes are laid out narrative-style for easy reading: In the book, you’ll find classics like pizza Margherita (fresh mozzarella, tomato sauce, parmigiano reggiano with fresh basil leaves) and his restaurant’s focaccia-inspired pizza rosa (parmigiano reggiano, red onion, fresh rosemary and roasted pistachios). The cookbook also features Bianco’s favorite salads, small and big plates, desserts and sandwiches, like the mozzarella and tomato sandwich with juicy tomatoes, fresh mozzarella, basil and olive oil on ciabatta. By Chris Bianco, harpercollins.com

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stone solutions written by Jenny VergArA

MERRIAM, KS. Since 1984, Lonnie roberts, owner of Stone Solutions, has

been creating exciting outdoor living spaces featuring dramatic stone fireplaces and beautiful outdoor kitchens. Stone Solutions also specializes in the installation of one of the most versatile outdoor kitchen accessories today: the wood-fired pizza oven. offering a wide variety of ovens in many shapes, sizes and designs, these outdoor ovens are as beautiful as they are functional. A favorite is the Chicago brick oven, a traditional, neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza oven that’s easy to install and can be used year-round. Cook times are quick due to the dense stone walls, which can maintain temperatures of 500 to 700° F. expand beyond pizza and make ribs, seafood, bread, kebabs, casseroles and more in the oven. Stop by the showroom in Merriam, Kansas, to explore the numerous options.

5125 Merriam Drive, Merriam, Kansas, stonesolution.net

PHotoS CourteSy Stone SoLutionS

artisan products vero pizza & pasta written by Huong truong

ST. LOUIS. if you love Katie’s Pizza & Pasta osteria’s two St. Louis-area locations, you can now get chef-owner Katie Collier’s italian cuisine at home. Collier and her family, including her husband, ted, her mother belinda Lee and her brother, Johnny Lee, launched Vero Pizza & Pasta, an online meal-kit company. All meal kits make one meal for four to six people or two meals for two people. Meal kits start at $55 with customizable options and weekly recipe specials. each kit comes with recipes cards,

video demo links and fun bonding activities, such as conversation cards and games. Past kits include corn and zucchini pizza, artichoke bucatini, fig and prosciutto pizza and arugula paparadelle with tarragon and lemon butter. you can buy a subscription or a one-time kit. nationwide shipping is free with a subscription, or $5 with a one-time purchase. Plus, for every kit purchased, Vero donates an emergency meal to operation Food Search in St. Louis. For more information or to order a kit, visit veropizzaandpasta.com PHoto CourteSy Vero PizzA & PAStA

fireside goods bottle opener written by nAnCy StiLeS

KANSAS CITY. these charming rustic bottle openers from Fireside Goods are made in omaha, nebraska, but the custom versions sold at urban Provisions general Store in Kansas City are perfect for local craft-beer lovers. the solid hardwood bottle opener comes fully assembled and ready to use – including screws for affixing it to a wall in your kitchen or home bar – so all you have to do is hang it and crack open a beer. Choose from styles including Drink Local with an illustration of the state of Missouri, Kansas City and Cheers for beers.

For more information or to purchase a bottle opener, visit urbanprovisionskc.com. PHoto CourteSy FireSiDe gooDS

feastmagazine.com

oc tober 2 0 1 7

promotion

edited by bethany christo | photography courtesy dogfish head craft brewery

Crowning the

Pump-King Dogfish Head Craft Brewery is getting ready for fall, y’all. Debuting in 1995 and now one of America’s best-selling pumpkin beers, Punkin Ale, a full-bodied brown ale, is now available on taps and shelves. Clocking in at 7 percent ABV, Punkin Ale is brewed with real pumpkin, brown sugar, allspice, nutmeg and cinnamon.

“We’ve been brewing Punkin Ale at Dogfish for more than two decades – long before there was a whole category of pumpkin beer – and have seen sales grow each and every year,” says Sam Calagione, founder and chief executive officer of Dogfish, which is based in Delaware. “I think it’s because the complexity and authenticity of the recipe has remained world-class since we first brewed it. It’s not made with pumpkin flavoring or concentrates – we use fresh, all-natural ingredients, and that makes a big difference.” The story of Punkin Ale began in 1994, when it won first place in a baking contest at the World Championship Punkin Chunkin, a legendary fall event in coastal Delaware, where folks travel from around the world to see who can hurl a pumpkin the farthest. Twenty-two years ago, Calagione entered the baking competition with his first-ever batch of Punkin Ale, which was made with the same real pumpkin meat, brown sugar and freshly crushed spices that it is today. He took home best in show, beating out homemade pumpkin pies, cookies and cakes. The name of the beer is inspired by the name of the Punkin Chunkin competition, and Punkin Ale continues to be the best-selling seasonal beer released by Dogfish annually. “Every fall, a week or so after Halloween, my wife, Mariah, and I will pop open a couple Punkin Ales and toast to the good karma that the beer’s story has brought us,” Calagione says.

The Reel

Deal

To help celebrate National Seafood Month in October, Dogfish Head Craft Brewery’s SeaQuench Ale is a session sour quencher made with lime peel, lime juice, black lime and sea salt. At 4.9-percent ABV and 10 IBUs, SeaQuench Ale is a citrusy-tart union of three German styles of beer brewed into one highly quenchable ale, widely available in cans and on draft. The innovative brewing process begins with a batch of traditional Kölsch with wheat and Munich malts. Next up is a batch of salt-forward gose, using black limes and sea salt from the Chesapeake Bay, followed by a batch of tart Berliner Weisse that’s brewed with lime juice and lime peel. The three beers are blended together during fermentation to create the zesty quencher. As well as becoming a hit for those looking for that year-round refresher, SeaQuench is also perfect for the health-conscious crowd, with only 140 calories and 9 grams of carbs. In 2017, Men’s Health magazine named SeaQuench Ale the Editor’s Choice for “Best Low-Calorie Beer” and claimed SeaQuench “may be the world’s most thirst-slaying beer.” SeaQuench is the perfect complement with many seafood dishes – according to The Boston Globe: “Nothing goes better with seafood than frosty beer. With that in mind… SeaQuench Ale, a session sour brewed with ingredients including sea salt and black limes, is specifically designed to be paired with seafood.” Dogfish’s geographically enamored seafood restaurant, Chesapeake & Maine, which opened in March 2016, has served as a key advocate for the initiatives on the eastern shore.

Dogfish Head Craft Brewery | 1-888-8DOGFISH | dogfish.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

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show

house

1 1 0 D i E l m a N RO a D, l a D u E , m O 6 3 1 2 4 Presented by

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Come tour this one-of-a-kind gem nestled amongst the trees on this beautiful 2+ aCre private lot in ladue. You will be inspired by the natural beauty of the home and the proper ty and overwhelmed by the transformative wor k of some of the area’s best designers.

eXclusiVe show house PreView ParTY eVenT thuRSDaY, OctOBER 5 | 6-9Pm BE amONg thE fiRSt tO SEE thiS YEaR’S tRaNSfORmatiON! Cocktails, hors d’oeuvres and live music. Event catered by Butler’s Pantr y.

General house Tour SatuRDaY, OctOBER 7 thROugh SuNDaY, OctOBER 22 Open Tuesday - Sunday 10am-5pm Daily | Closed Monday

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put a ring on it

Crack open your favorite lager and make these beer-battered onion rings at home on p. 56. photography by jennifer silverberg

healthy appetite

story, recipe AND photogrAphy by sherrie cAstellANo

Root Vegetable-ale Stew Any type of ale will work well in this recipe. serves | 4 to 6 |

¼ 1 1 1 1 5 5 1 1 1

cup olive oil cup roughly chopped white onion cup roughly chopped celery cup roughly chopped carrots 12-oz bottle ale sprigs fresh thyme finely diced cloves garlic cup roughly chopped golden beets cup roughly chopped parsnips cup roughly chopped turnips sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

| preparation | in a large stockpot over low heat, heat olive oil. Add onion, celery and carrots and sauté for 5 minutes. increase heat to medium and stir. continue sautéing, stirring occasionally, for another 5 minutes. Add ale, thyme and garlic. stir and simmer for another 5 minutes. Add golden beets, parsnips and turnips. season with salt and pepper to taste and add enough water to just barely cover vegetables. leave stew uncovered to simmer for 10 minutes or until root vegetables are tender. serve warm with crusty bread.

%PG

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july 2 0 1 6

Root Vegetable-ale Stew there are few things more comforting than a piping-hot bowl of soup on a chilly fall day – except maybe a warming, full-bodied glass of ale. this root vegetable stew combines the best of both. if you haven't cooked with beer before, this is a simple way to ease into it. this root vegetable stew is simmered with ale to add depth of flavor and complexity. it comes together in just 30 minutes, but has a flavor that suggests it's simmered on the stove all day. i use carrots, parsnips, turnips and golden beets here, but you can use any root vegetables you like: red beets instead of golden beets, sweet potatoes instead of carrots, russet potatoes instead of parsnips – ingredient combinations for this stew are limited only by your imagination. Sherrie Castellano is a former health coach turned food writer, photographer and pop-up chef based in St. Louis, Missouri. A collection of Sherrie’s recipes, stories and images can be found on her Saveur Blog Award-nominated website, With Food + Love. Sherrie is currently the marketing director for Midwest-based Big Heart Tea Co.

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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mystery shopper

meet: PumPkin-Seed Oil story and recipe by shannon weber photography by jennifer silverberg

Roasted PumPkin, Fig and aRugula Pizzettas with PumPkin-seed oil VinaigRette These little pizzas scream pumpkin in all the right ways: Roasted sugar pumpkins grace the top, pumpkin seeds add satisfying crunch and pumpkin-seed oil brings a smoky hit to each bite.

What Is It? imagine walnut oil, only with about 20 times the intensity: that’s pumpkin-seed oil. it’s smoky and bitter, with a deep nuttiness and toasted quality. thinned out, it’s earthy green, but in larger quantities, it glows a shimmery red. you won’t find it at most grocery stores, but it’s quite popular throughout eastern europe for its flavor and health benefits, so look for it in international markets or health-food stores.

What do I do WIth It? don’t cook with it, that’s for sure. pumpkin-seed oil becomes even more bitter when heated, which turns it from pleasant to just awful, and demolishes health benefits like essential fatty acids and vitamins e and K. stick to room temperature applications like salad dressing or a drizzle on soups before serving. if you’re feeling adventurous, try it over ice cream with a few toasted pumpkin seeds on top.

Shannon Weber is the creator, author and photographer behind the award-winning blog aperiodictableblog.com, and her work has appeared on websites such as bon appétit, Serious Eats and America’s Test Kitchen. She is a self-taught baker and cook who believes that the words “I can’t” should never apply to food preparation and that curiosity can lead to wonderful things, in both the kitchen and life.

serves | 6 |

pumpkin-seed oil vinaigrette 2 Tbsp balsamic vinegar 1 Tbsp plus 1 tsp pumpkin-seed oil 1 Tbsp maple syrup juice of ½ a lemon 2 Tbsp olive oil ¾ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

this fall, it’s out with the psl and in with the pso.

pizzettas fresh pizza dough 2 Tbsp cornmeal, for dusting pans 2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese, divided 1 medium sugar pumpkin, peeled, seeds removed, thinly sliced 12 dried Mission figs, sliced tip to tip into thin rings ¾ cup shredded Parmesan cheese, divided 1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves 1½ tsp olive oil sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 3 cups baby arugula ²⁄₃ cup roughly chopped roasted pumpkin seeds

| preparation – pumpkin-seed oil vinaigrette | in a small bowl, add first four ingredients; whisk to blend. stream in olive oil as you whisk until mixture has emulsified; whisk in salt and pepper. set aside.

| preparation – pizzettas | preheat oven to 500°f and position racks near the middle. lightly flour a work surface for dough. cut dough into 6 equal pieces, shape into balls and stretch each into a 7-inch round. dust 2 sheet pans with cornmeal. spread ¹⁄₃ cup mozzarella on each, leaving a border. lay a few pumpkin slices on each; divide figs over top and sprinkle each with 2 tablespoons parmesan. scatter thyme on top, drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. bake for 10 to 11 minutes, until crust is nicely browned and cheese is bubbling. | to serve | in a large bowl, toss arugula with enough vinaigrette to coat leaves. divide onto cooked pizzettas and top with pumpkin seeds. serve.

online eXtra Visit feastmagazine.com for a fool-proof dough recipe perfect for making these pizzettas.

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Inspired Local Food Culture

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quick fix

Beer-Battered OniOn rings story and recipe by Gabrielle deMichele photoGraphy by jennifer silverberG

sweet and salty with a golden-brown crunchy coating, onion rings are a hearty snack that, like most things, are only enhanced by beer. here we’re using a lager, a type of beer known for its clean and crisp flavor, directly in the batter. this quick and easy recipe pairs well with a hamburger – and of course, quite perfectly with your favorite lager.

Beer-Battered OniOn rings

chef’s tip

Sweet onions, especially Vidalia or Maui varieties, balance the saltiness and richness of the onion rings.

A cuT ABOVE. Use a sharp chef’s knife to cleanly and uniformly slice onions and you may not tear up during prep. a dull knife is

serves | 4 TO 6 |

1 2 2 ¼ ¼ 2 6

qt peanut oil cups buttermilk pancake mix cups lager tsp salt tsp freshly ground black pepper cups all-purpose flour large sweet onions, peeled and sliced into ½-inch rings 2 Tbsp flaked sea salt

| preparation | place a candy thermometer in a large, deep dutch oven. heat peanut oil to 365ºf. line a plate with paper towels and set aside. in a large mixing bowl, combine pancake mix, lager, salt and pepper and stir until smooth. in a separate large mixing bowl, add flour and toss with onion rings. dredge coated onion rings in wet batter until evenly coated. transfer battered rings to hot oil and fry until golden brown, about 4 to 5 minutes, flipping occasionally and taking care not to crowd onions in dutch oven. remove fried onion rings from dutch oven using a spider strainer and transfer to paper towel-lined plate. sprinkle with flaked sea salt. serve hot.

more likely to cause “bruising” as you slice an onion, which is what produces the chemical that irritates your eyes.

the menu • Beer-Battered Onion Rings • Grilled Marinated Pork Tenderloin in a Piquant Sauce • Barley Pilaf With Swiss Chard • Chocolate Stout Cake With Wild-Ale Frosting

LeaRn MORe. in this class you’ll learn how to make a tangy

piquant sauce to perfectly complement grilled pork tenderloin. you’ll also learn how to whip up frosting made with wild ale.

get hands-on: Join Feast Magazine and schnucks Cooks Cooking school at 6pm on Wed., oct. 18, at the des Peres, Missouri, location, to make the dishes in this month’s menu. tickets are just $45 for a night of cooking, dining and wine. RsVP at schnuckscooks.com or call 314.909.1704.

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In St. Louis, tune into the Nine Network (Channel 9) to watch Feast TV Wednesdays at 7pm.

In Kansas City, watch Feast TV on KCPT (Channel 19) Sundays at 8am and 6:30pm.

You can watch Feast TV throughout mid-Missouri on KMOS (Channel 6) Thursdays at 7pm.

Feast TV airs in the southern Illinois region on WSIU (Channel 8) Saturdays at noon and Mondays at 12:30pm.

Check your local listings to watch Feast TV in the Lake of the Ozarks area.

feast tv is brought to you by the generous support of our sponsors:

We’ve got all of your favorite craft beers including seasonal brews and special releases. Our team of experts takes great care in curating our beer selection that includes many brewed locally! Follow our very own Certified Beer Server Chris Wong @SpiritSipsSuds and Certified Cicerone® Chris Kline @SchnucksBeerGuy!

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swEEt iDEas

story and recipe by christy augustin photography by jacklyn meyer

The UlTimaTe ChoColaTe Chip Cookies If using frozen dough, bake cookies for 12 to 15 minutes instead. yields | 4 DOZEN |

2¹⁄₃ 1 1 1

cups unbleached, all-purpose flour tsp baking soda tsp baking powder cup room-temperature unsalted butter 1 cup tightly packed light brown sugar 1¾ cups granulated sugar 1½ tsp kosher salt 1 Tbsp blackstrap molasses 2 eggs 2 tsp vanilla extract 2½ cups 60-percent dark chocolate chips

| preparation | preheat oven to 375°F. prepare a cookie sheet with parchment paper and set aside. in a large mixing bowl, combine flour, baking soda and baking powder and set aside. in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together butter, sugars, salt and molasses on medium speed. cream for 15 minutes until soft and lighter in color. add eggs and vanilla and scrape sides of bowl thoroughly. add flour mixture, creaming until just combined. stir in chocolate chips. spoon dough into 48 small balls and place, 2 inches apart, onto prepared cookie sheet. (if freezing dough, transfer cookie sheet to freezer; once frozen, store dough balls in an airtight container or freezer bag for up to 2 months.) if baking cookies right away, immediately transfer cookie sheet to oven and bake until just barely golden on the edges, 9 to 11 minutes. serve.

The UlTimaTe ChoColaTe Chip Cookies when i first opened Pint size Bakery, we didn’t sell chocolate chip cookies because i couldn’t perfect my recipe. Like many people, i grew up eating the Nestlé toll House version, and while they’re nice straight from the oven, they’re only OK after they cool down. i wanted my ultimate chocolate chip cookies to be crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, even at room temperature. i challenged my bakers (with the promise of a $50 reward) to bring in their best recipes for testing. to make sure we were comparing apples to apples, we scaled everything down to a manageable size batch for testing – or so we thought. a simple math error in one of the recipes resulted in the winner. Not believing that a mistake could have created the best cookie, we decided on a blind taste test and March Madness-style bracket system. Round after round, this cookie claimed the top spot. the following recipe includes instructions for both freshly baked cookies and frozen dough that you can bake later. in my opinion, a baker’s best friend is the freezer. we bake all of our cookies and scones from scratch-made frozen dough to yield the best final products. Freezing dough before baking it allows the butter to firm back up and gives sugars and other flavorings time to do their special magic in the freezer. Plus, if you freeze your dough (or at least some of it), you can have freshly baked cookies whenever you want. Christy Augustin has had a lifelong love affair with all things sweet. After working as a pastry chef in New Orleans and St. Louis, she opened Pint Size Bakery & Coffee in St. Louis’ Lindenwood Park in 2012. She calls herself the baker of all things good and evil. Learn more at pintsizebakery.com.

photography by mabel suen

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PICK MISSOURI GROWN Fresh, local and delicious — that’s Missouri Grown. Here in Missouri, we grow everything from corn and soybeans to cotton and rice. Our family farms raise some of the nation’s best beef and pork products. Missouri vineyards produce some of the most rich, flavorful wines that rival the best of California. And that’s just a sampling of what you’ll find when you pick Missouri Grown! Barbecue Sauces Beef Beverages Candy Chocolates Dairy

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COMING SOON

| 63 |

pizza party

How John Gilbreth made Pizza Tree Columbia, Missouri’s “funnest” pizza shop

| 68 |

the year in beer

Your guide to the biggest brewery news and best new brews of the past 12 months

| 80 |

hip to be square

Slicing into the history of St. Louis-style pizza

| 90 |

make pizza like a pro

Taylor Petrehn makes seriously delicious Neapolitan-style pizza at 1900 Barker Bakery and Cafe – and he’s sharing how you can make it at home, too PHoTo of TaYLor PeTreHN’S HoMeMaDe GrILLeD PIZZa reCIPeS (P. 90) BY aNGeLa BoND

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For catering & event inquiries: 314-295-8220 / catering@stlsouthern.com

Hours of Operation Mon-Tues, Closed Wed-Sat, 11a-7p Sun, 11a-4p 3108 Olive Street, Saint Louis, MO 63103 314.531.4668 / stlsouthern.com

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How Jo JoHn GilbretH made Pizza Tree Columbia, missouri’s “funnesT” “funnes Pizza shoP written bY HeatHer risKe

PHotoGraPHY bY aaron ottis

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he sourdough starter at Pizza Tree has a name. Seymour gets fed twice daily, depending on how much pizza dough needs to be made on a given day – sometimes less, and definitely more when school is in session at The University of Missouri (more commonly known as Mizzou). Hell-bent on making “the most amazing pizza dough ever,” owner John Gilbreth started the sourdough culture five years ago at the pizza shop’s original location inside local concert venue Mojo’s (now the Rose Music Hall). He’s kept Seymour alive in the tiny kitchen inside Pizza Tree’s current digs at 909 Cherry St. in the heart of downtown Columbia, Missouri, ever since.

“It makes [the pizza] a little different, it improves digestibility and gives it just a little extra flavor,” Gilbreth says. “It’s something I really believe in; it’s something that sets us apart.” But it’s certainly not the only thing that sets Pizza Tree apart.

Gilbreth’s first pizza-making experience was an admittedly modest one: When he was 16, he worked at a sandwich shop in Joplin, Missouri, that served a few pizzas. He’d assemble the pies and run them through a small conveyor oven; although Gilbreth says it was hardly a career-defining experience, he found he really enjoyed working in restaurants. He then moved to Columbia in 1999 and attended classes at Mizzou for two weeks before dropping out and landing a job at the storied Shakespeare’s Pizza. He started as a delivery driver, working his way up the ranks over several years to bartender and then shift manager. At 25, after seven years at the venerable pizza joint, he decided he was ready for a new challenge. After trying his hand at what he calls a “big boy” job in the entertainment industry that took him to cities across the country, he found himself back in Columbia a few years later. Falling back on his previous restaurant experience, he got a job at Broadway Brewery and soon fell into the swing of things. “I was like, ‘Oh my god, what was I doing?’ Why did I leave this?’” he says. Gilbreth considers Broadway his first true kitchen job. On his third shift at the restaurant, a manager put him on the pizza station, where he was shown how to make dough, top pies and load them into the oven. All of the sudden, he says, it hit him – he already knew how to do everything. “It was like riding a bike, you know?” he says. “I loved doing it and I got obsessed. From then on I just turned into a pizza-making beast.” Gilbreth began reading all the pizza-making blogs and articles he could find in order to improve the pies at Broadway. After about two years of putting out pizzas at the brewery, he decided to take the leap and open his own shop. But first, he embarked on a self-described “pizza odyssey,” visiting 35 pizzerias throughout the Northeast in just 34 days. (He would have visited more, he says, but he got trapped in Brooklyn during Hurricane Sandy.) Gilbreth drove his truck up and down the East Coast, visiting famous pizza parlors including Lucali and Roberta’s in Brooklyn as well as Frank Pepe’s and Sally’s Apizza in New Haven, Connecticut. As part of the R&D process for his new shop, he visited several wood-fired and authentic Neapolitan-style spots. “I learned that I’m not Italian,” he says with a laugh. “I didn’t want to emulate that; I wanted to be a little more authentic to myself. I really fell in love with big fat slices from an 18- or 20- or 22-inch pizza.” But the spot that resonated the most with Gilbreth was the quirky Pizza Brain in Philadelphia, which serves brick-oven pies with names like Henrietta Blanch and Bob Shieldsmoose.

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Toppings are just as unusual, ranging from hot dogs and coffee-cured pastrami to vegan Thai peanut sauce and tandoori masala barbecued chicken. The restaurant also boasts the world’s first pizza museum. “It was just fun, number one,” Gilbreth says. “It looked like they were having a blast. They were putting funny stuff on their pizzas that actually really looked good. I was like, ‘This is cool; this is it. These are my people. This is the calling.’” Armed with “too many ideas” collected during his travels, Gilbreth returned to Columbia and – just a few weeks later – opened Pizza Tree in a tiny shotgun kitchen at Mojo’s in early 2013. Working alongside his former Broadway Brewery manager, Jay Westcott, Gilbreth began putting out creative pizzas like the Charredachoke Island (roasted red pepper sauce, charred artichokes, Kalamata olives, red onion, Feta, olive oil and a generous sprinkling of fresh arugula) and Ranch Hands (a riff on a cheeseburger pizza with buttered onions, ground sirloin, peppered bacon and white Cheddar). “I felt really energized by it,” he says. “We were making crazy, off-the-wall pizzas.” The pizzas certainly got Columbia’s attention, but Gilbreth says trying to operate a full-service pizza shop inside a bar and music venue wasn’t feasible for the long haul. Diners had trouble getting to Pizza Tree during shows without a ticket, for instance, and sometimes the sheer sound of the bass would knock the phone off the hook. After about a year, the shop closed for a brief hiatus while Gilbreth launched a Kickstarter campaign to open a “full-fledged pizza spaceship machine,” or, in other words, a brick-and-mortar location. Columbia was clearly hungry for more of Gilbreth’s atypical pies: Within just 11 days, he had surpassed his goal of $11,111 (the campaign ended up raising more than $12,000). When Pizza Tree officially reopened in its new home on Cherry Street in October 2014, it ran out of dough in just two-and-a-half hours. Pizza Tree describes itself as “Columbia’s funnest pizza shop,” and after one step inside, you’d be hard-pressed to argue. The walls are decked out with Gilbreth’s own collection of pizza-inspired art, including a portrait of Spock encouraging diners to “live long and eat pizza” and Freddie Mercury singing “another one bites the crust.” A few are emblazoned with the shop’s logo, “Pizza party hard, y’all,” and Pizza Tree’s official mascot: Gilbreth’s corgi, Banjo. Although small, the space reflects the personalities of Pizza Tree’s employees – almost everyone on staff plays in a local band or is involved in the art or music scene in some way.

Gilbreth's collection of pizza-inspired art lines the walls.

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The bánh mì pizza features Sriracha-glazed pork belly from local Patchwork Family Farms, housemade kimchi and fresh cilantro drizzled with a chile aïoli.

The pepperoni pizza, made with cup-and-char pepperoni coins from Ezzo Sausage Co. in Columbus, Ohio, makes up around half Pizza Tree’s sales, but the shop is best known for its creative – and creatively named – pies. A few staples will always be on the menu, including classics from the Mojo’s days like the Charredachoke Island, Ranch Hands, bánh mì and truffled crimini. The shop also runs new specials almost every week, although Gilbreth says he tries to keep the pizzas approachable and identifiable. “I don’t want to weird people out too much,” he says. Instead, pizzas feature combinations that are familiar to diners – just not on pizza. The Corne Asada, for instance, is a take on a Mexican street taco with corn purée, white Cheddar, queso fresco, carne asada, pico de gallo, salsa verde and fresh cilantro. A riff on the traditional Vietnamese sandwich, the popular bánh mì pizza features Sriracha-glazed pork belly from local Patchwork Family Farms, striking housemade purple kimchi, fresh cilantro and a chile aïoli that’s drizzled over the pizza in a mesmerizing spiral. “Not only do we make crazy and weird pizzas, but they’re also really good,” says daytime manager Justin Nardy, who used to grab slices at Mojo’s before joining the team and helped Gilbreth open the Ninth Street shop. “Our ingredients are top notch. We make many ingredients in house, and use [high-quality] meat, and all of that shows on the final product. When you provide quality service with a unique product that people can't get anywhere else, you get a recipe that works – that’s what keeps people coming back.” Gilbreth and his team also don’t cut corners when it comes to the execution of their quirky pizzas. The “New York-esque” pizzas bake for around 5½ to 6 minutes in a 590ºF electric

deck pizza oven. Starting at around 9am, the team begins cutting vegetables, mixing dough, shredding cheese and making sauce – including housemade ranch dressing – and they do this every day. “It seems so cliché to say, ‘Everything’s really fresh,’” Gilbreth says in a playful voice. “Papa John’s says that; it doesn’t really mean anything. But [our pizza] is fresh.” Pizzas are available in 12- and 18-inch pies or by the slice (take a look at the light-box menu board to see the day’s slices), and the shop also offers delivery. Gilbreth says the Pizza Tree team can bust out around 250 pizzas a day “when we’re rocking.” That number tends to be lower in January and July; since Columbia is a college town, the business is fairly seasonal. But on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights during the school year, students flock to Pizza Tree for sustenance after bar hopping downtown. “We’d turn the lights down low, turn the music up pretty loud and a sell a lot of slices,” Gilbreth says. “I mean, we party too, right?” The shop originally opened its doors for late-night service, but ended up installing two walk-up windows out front to better meet the demand of hungry students. Slices, including cheese, pepperoni and one “wild card” option, are available until 2am. Slices are the backbone of Pizza Tree’s business; the shop is the only one in Columbia to offer pizza-by-the-slice all day, every day. Gilbreth sees it as a way to make his food accessible to everybody. If you want to order one slice of cheese and one slice of the veggie-loaded Wabbit Food, you can. It’s a simple concept, really, but one that students and locals alike have wholeheartedly embraced. “A lot of it was just the market – there was nobody in town really trying anything too different on top of their pizzas,” Gilbreth says. “People in Columbia want double pineapple and ranch on their pizza, and I’m totally happy to provide that.” 573.874.9925, pizzatreepizza.com

Inspired Local Food Culture

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The craft-beer industry in our region is growing bigger and stronger every day. New breweries are opening with increasing frequency, while well-established ones, both big and small, are expanding production and distribution at home and across the country. Brewers themselves are also pushing the industry forward with new approaches to modern, trendy and old-world beers, introducing consumers to a range of classic and creative styles and flavors. In this, our annual The Year in Beer feature, we present an overview of the expansion and innovation in our regional craft-beer community. In the following pages you’ll read about happenings in the beer scene from October 2016 to October 2017, including the opening of 18 new breweries, 14 must-try beers from established breweries and exciting and inspiring stories about growth and expansion. Please join us in raising a pint to all of the brewers who are moving our local beer industry forward and making our region a national destination for stellar suds.

newly opened in the past 12 months our favorite recent releases industry updates and highlights

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what’s new and notable in the community Written by ettie berneking, Pete Dulin,

Center Ice Brewery With beers like Hop Shelf IPA and Preseason Saison, it’s not hard to guess the theme behind Center Ice Brewery. Step inside the Midtown St. Louis tasting room – featuring a bar made with wood salvaged from the long-shuttered St. Louis Arena, hockey stick-shaped tap handles and a painting of former St. Louis Blues right wing Ryan Reaves blowing a kiss at the Dallas Stars’ bench – and you’ll definitely get the idea. Former homebrewer and self-described “hockey nut” Steve Albers opened the 5,000-square-foot brewery in July, featuring a seven-barrel operation. –Heather Riske

Mallory gnaegy, rose Hansen, liz Miller,

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Justin PHelPs, HeatHer riske, Huong truong

314.339.5733, centericebrewery.com

anD Jessica VaugHn

PHOTO COuRTeSY CenTeR ICe BReWeRY

UMSL©s B eer BRewing COurses Narrow GauGe BrewiNG Co.’s Zavtrak Provenance: Florissant, Missouri Style: Russian imperial stout (10.1% ABV) PairingS: Tiramisu • Cinnamon French toast with maple syrup

STL

▲ The University of Missouri-St. Louis (UMSL) has figured out a new way to get students excited about chemistry with its CHEM 1021 Beer Brewing: Chemical and Biochemical Principles course. Offered through UMSL’s chemistry and biochemistry departments, the brewing course was introduced in 2014 at the suggestion of Ron Yasbin, dean of arts and sciences, and Joe Meisel, a Ph.D graduate. Originally designed as a science elective for non-science majors, the course is now so popular that it’s wait-listed. At the beginning of the semester, students pair off into

teams of two and select a style of beer to brew. Near the end of the term, each team submits two to three liters of beer to the class, and everyone votes for their favorite. The class then brews that beer together to produce just two bottles for the winning team. The course’s spike in popularity has also resulted in the addition of a quarter-barrel brewing system this fall that resembles what you’d find at a small microbrewery. Students are limited to brewing ales, as many types of lagers require more time to ferment and stricter temperature control. The class also takes field trips

to tour local breweries and learn about the science and brewing systems at each (and those of age can sample beers). A second course, CHEM 1022 Principles of Fermentation Science, has also been added to the curriculum for students who have taken the initial course. The advanced class focuses on the fermentation process and how it impacts styles of beer, wine, spirit, kombucha and even yogurt. –Ettie Berneking 314.516.5311, bulletin.umsl.edu/ coursesofinstruction/chem

More than 200 customers lined up outside Narrow Gauge Brewing Co. last February for its Zavtrak release, each hoping to take home a crowler of the Russian imperial stout flavored with cacao nibs, vanilla beans, coffee, maple syrup and cinnamon. Head brewer Jeff Hardesty says Zavtrak was served at a festival before Narrow Gauge opened its tasting room inside Cugino’s Restaurant in Florissant, Missouri, and customers kept calling to find out when the beer would be released again. This big stout features intensely sweet flavors of brown sugar and lightly toasted marshmallow balanced by a bracing bitterness from coffee from Florissant neighbors Alaska Klondike Coffee Co. Zavtrak is an annual release available on draft and to-go in 32-ounce crowlers while supplies last. –Justin Phelps 314.831.3222, narrowgaugestl.com

PHOTO BY AUGUST JENNEWEIN

Free state BrewiNG Co.’s post roCk pils ils

Lost Signal Brewing Co.

Brewery Emperial

Brewer Tyler Hoke opened Lost Signal Brewing Co. in downtown Springfield, Missouri, in February, inside a space that previously housed a radio station. The brewery has quickly made a riot of noise: In just eight months, Lost Signal has tapped 25 beers. There’s been a boysenberry sour, a blueberry-basil hefeweizen, a Sriracha sour, a cherry-chocolate stout, a habanero-mango Kölsch and the extremely popular smoked pecan porter. Beers change with the season, with 10 to 12 on tap at any time. The brewery, which also serves excellent barbecue, is inching toward producing 300 barrels by the end of the year. Hoke is also gearing up to begin distributing Lost Signal beer on draft to bars and restaurants in the Springfield area. –E.B.

Master brewer Keith Thompson and his wife, Julie, in partnership with restaurateurs Ted and Jackie Habiger and Rich and Shannon Kasyjanski, opened Brewery Emperial in Kansas City’s Crossroads Arts District last December. Thompson and head brewer Sterling Holman craft creative interpretations of classics, including Biscuit, part English ESB (extra-special bitter) and part American pale ale. The beer features bread and toast notes, and Thompson says it’s become a fan favorite. Pair a pint with the roasted half-chicken or rainbow trout prepared on a wood-fired grill and enjoy your meal in the tasting room or beer garden. –Pete Dulin

417.869.4755, lostsignalbrewing.com

816.945.9625, breweryemperial.com

PHOTO BY ETTIE BERNEKING

PHOTO BY ANNA PETROW

Provenance: Lawrence, Kansas Style: Czech-style Pilsner (5.8% ABV) PairingS: Buffalo chicken wings • Bratwurst or knockwurst • Barbecue Free State Brewing Co.’s Post Rock Pils unites classic German Pilsner malt, spicy German Saphir hops and the citrusy spice of American Crystal hops to produce a lively lager. (The name refers to the cut limestone rocks used as fence posts by homesteading pioneers.) Chiefly developed by head brewer Geoff Deman, Free State has nailed the Czech-style Pilsner with Post Rock. This crisp, refreshing beer is distinguished by its brilliant gold color, light body, bread and biscuit aromas from the malt and a faint peppery finish. Post Rock Pils is available in six-pack bottles and on draft from June through the middle of August. –P.D. 785.843.4555, freestatebrewing.com

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Boulevard Brewing Co. Invests $10 Million in Further Expansion

▲ Boulevard Brewing Co. announced its next major phase of growth in June 2017: A $10 million expansion of its brewery complex and facilities in Kansas City’s Westside neighborhood. Boulevard will add a 24,000-square-foot building next to the brewery to house a canning line designed to fill 350 12-ounce cans per minute. The brewery first began canning in 2014 and outsourced the work to Cold Spring Brewing Co. in Minnesota, as well as to its sister company, Firestone Walker Brewing Co. in Paso Robles, California. The new Kansas City facility will allow Boulevard to consolidate its canning operations while also expanding its offerings.

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St. louis’ grove neighborhood gained a bounty of craft beer when Gezellig Tap House & BottleShop opened at 4191 Manchester ave. last year. owner and certified cicerone Brandon cavanagh offers more than 700 bottled and canned brews and another 28 on draft. –Liz Miller (gezelligstl.com)

Current best-selling canned beers include Unfiltered Wheat, Heavy Lifting IPA, Ginger-Lemon Radler, American Kölsch and Frequent Flier session IPA. The expansion follows two other growth phases for Boulevard – the 2007 addition of a brewhouse and the 2014 construction of Cellar Five, which houses fermenters and other equipment that increased brewing capacity. Boulevard aims to be canning beer at the new facility by early next year. –P.D. 816.474.7095, boulevard.com PHOTO COURTESY BOULEVARD BREWING CO.

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if everything goes according to plan, Springfield, Missouri, will get its fifth craft brewery in late fall or winter when 4 By 4 Brewing Co. opens near Sequiota Park. the four founders of 4 by 4 are homebrewers who have traveled the U.S. in search of great craft beer. expect to see bike racks in the tasting room to accommodate the many cyclists who frequent the nearby park, as well as game nights hosted throughout the month. –E.B. (4by4brewingcompany.com)

Charleville BRewing CO. & Tavern In May, Charleville Brewing Co. & Tavern opened in a former truck parts and mechanic’s shop in Downtown St. Louis. Although the location is new, there’s nearly 30 years of combined experience among the partners involved. The brewery and tasting room is an expansion of the flagship in Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, owned by Jack and Joal Russell of Charleville Vineyard & Microbrewery, and a culinary partnership with restaurateurs Paul and Wendy Hamilton of Hamilton Hospitality Group. In addition to offering American pub food, housemade root beer and Missouri wine, the tasting room serves beers made with the on-site seven-barrel system. The new brewery is smaller than the operations in Ste. Genevieve, and will focus on special releases and some staples, including Half-Wit Wheat, an American wheat-meets-Belgian wit made with coriander and orange zest, and Hoptimistic IPA, an American IPA with citrusy, floral aromas and a medium body. –Mallory Gnaegy 314.241.4677, charlevillebeer.com PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

six Mile Bridge Beer’s the reverent

Crane Brewing Co.’s Beet weiss

Provenance: Maryland Heights, Missouri Style: Imperial stout (13% ABV) PairingS: Chocolate ganache cake • Raspberry-salted caramel ice cream

Provenance: Raytown, Missouri Style: Berliner weisse (4.5% ABV) PairingS: Aged ham and creamy brie on a pretzel bun • French fries with aïoli • Cheesecake with raspberries and toasted almonds

When Six Mile Bridge Beer owners Ryan and Lindsay Sherring announced a line of limited barrel-aged beers titled the Big Five Series – named for the big five game animals in Ryan’s native South Africa – in May, they hardly expected it to immediately take off. Yet more than 700 bottles of The Reverent, aged on Indian vanilla beans in bourbon barrels, sold out in just 35 minutes. A rich vanilla aroma leads to flavors of dark chocolate, caramel and vanilla, which mix nicely with subtle bourbon notes. An imperial coffee stout aged in Woodford Reserve rye whiskey barrels will be next in the series. The Reverent was a limited release available in 750-milliliter bottles. –J.P.

Crane Brewing Co. is known for its series of Berliner weisses, including the lauded Tea Weiss, Apricot Weiss and Kumquat Weiss. Beet Weiss, released last October, is based on a beat cream ale first made by co-founder Michael Crane when he was still a homebrewer; his recipe was updated and rebranded before its first seasonal release. Bright and effervescent with a berry aroma and ruby-red color, Beet Weiss is a standout for its distinct earthy and tart flavor. It’s available in 750-milliliter bottles and on tap in the fall. –P.D.

314.942.2211, sixmilebridgebeer.com

816.743.4132, cranebrewing.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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charleville Brewing co.’S long white cloud

2nd Shift Brewing

Brew Lab

Provenance: Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, and St. Louis Style: Pilsner (5% ABV) PairingS: Baked tilapia with fresh lemon • Shrimp tacos with cilantro • Pizza

The majority of 2nd Shift Brewing’s customer base has always been in St. Louis, so it wasn’t a surprise when co-owners Steve and Libby Crider announced plans to move the brewery there from New Haven, Missouri. The tasting room opened on The Hill last December, and brewing operations were transitioned from New Haven later that month. The new 12,000-square-foot facility will allow 2nd Shift to double its production to 1,600 barrels by year’s end, with hopes to increase to 3,000 in 2018 and 4,000 by 2019. Distribution has also expanded from St. Louis; Columbia, Missouri; Springfield, Missouri; and Nashville, Tennessee, to Chicago and Seattle. That means that fans in St. Louis and across the country now have better access to favorites like Art of Neurosis, a year-round IPA; Hibiscus Wit, a seasonal Belgian witbier; and Katy, a saison barrel-aged with Brettanomyces yeast. –L.M.

Brew Lab, a homebrew supply store and brewing facility, relocated to a larger space in downtown Overland Park, Kansas, this summer. The relocation also led to expansion, including a full brewery and restaurant from co-owners Clay Johnston, Justin Waters, Kevin Combs and Matthew Hornung. Customers can still brew beer in private sessions or classes and purchase brewing supplies, but if you’re more interested in drinking beer, you’re also in luck. Brewer Max Carroll is making West Coastand Australian-style IPAs, as well as a rosemary-rye Belgian saison, chocolate porter, ginger IPA and more on a three-barrel system. Johnston describes the new restaurant’s beer-friendly menu as “American tapas,” which translates to dishes such as IPA-infused mac ‘n’ cheese and Buffalo cauliflower bites. –P.D.

For its first canned beer, Charleville Brewing Co. went with a classic: the Pilsner. Lead brewer Kevin Klein used five hop varieties grown in New Zealand, where he lived and brewed beer for about a year and a half. Klein says the beer has a fair amount of tropical-fruit flavor, as well as lime zest and a bit of grape from Nelson Sauvin hops. (The other four hop varieties used are Motueka, Green Bullet, Pacific Gem and Pacific Jade.) The beer features flavors of stone fruit and bright citrus that contrast nicely with the white bread and cracker notes from the Pilsner and Vienna malts. Crisp and well-carbonated, it’s a highly drinkable beer, especially on a hot day. Long White Cloud is available in 12-ounce cans and can be purchased year-round at the St. Louis or Ste. Genevieve, Missouri, tasting rooms. –J.P.

314.669.9013, 2ndshiftbrewing.com

913.400.2343, brewlabkc.com

multiple locations, charlevillebeer.com

PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

PHOTO BY ANGELA BOND

CoMo Growlers & Pints

StockyardS Brewing co.’S the Spirit cowBoy Provenance: Kansas City Style: Smoked imperial Pilsner (8.5% ABV) PairingS: Burnt ends and ribs • BLT with thick-cut pepper bacon • Maple-glazed donuts The Spirit Cowboy is a smooth, smoky lager brewed with 50 percent beechwood-smoked Pilsner malt, plus Saaz and Perle hops. Pale in color, this crisp beer is bolstered by powerful smoke character and a higher alcohol content than your average Pilsner. The smoky flavor nods to Stockyards Brewing Co.’s historic neighborhood in Kansas City’s Stockyards District, once a regional hub for cattle sales. The seasonal beer will be available on draft in November at Stockyards’ tasting room. –P.D.

▲There’s a new filling station in Columbia, Missouri – but you won’t find any gas pumps on the property. CoMO Growlers & Pints, owned and operated by Aaron Banks, is the first dedicated “filling station” in Missouri, offering patrons the option to take home a growler of their choice of 16 draft beers. The business opened after strict regulations about growler fills in Missouri were amended in 2016 with the passing of Senate Bill 919. In accordance with new state law, CoMO Growlers & Pints contains two separate businesses housed in the same storefront: One is the filling station, and the other is a craft-beer tasting room. Taps in the tasting room rotate seasonally and will highlight smaller breweries from around the region and country. Patrons can visit the tasting room to sample pints or flights of beers, and if they find one they really like, they can take some home in a 32- or 64-ounce glass or plastic growler. (You can also bring your own growlers.) Growlers are cleaned with carbon dioxide before being filled to prevent oxygen from reaching the beer quickly, which keeps it fresher for longer. –Jessica Vaughn 573.214.4070, growlersnpints.com PHOTO COUrTESY COMO GrOWLErS & PINTS

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816.895.8880, stockyardsbrewing.com

ON TAP

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this spring, chesterfield, Missouri, will get its very own brewery: Gumbo Flats Brewing. named for the area of the chesterfield valley formerly known as “gumbo Flats,” the brewery will offer a lemon shandy, northeast-style iPa and more. –H.R.

craft-beer distribution Central Standard Brewing’S Standard iSSue

▲ craft Republic, a new St. louis-based craft-beer distribution company, sold its first case of beer this past June. The business represents more than 12 brands from around the u.S., including heavy hitters such as Evil Twin Brewing and Stillwater Artisanal. President and founder Brian dix started the company after more than two decades in the beer-distribution business to fill a void he saw in the industry: catering to small- and medium-sized brands. craft Republic features an online ordering program that allows customers to purchase beer from any of its brands and have it quickly delivered. The company is working to build a larger, more diverse portfolio, too, which

ON TAP

may include craft spirits, mead, hard ciders, kombucha and cold brews, as well as non-alcoholic drinks like Topo chico mineral water. As craft breweries grow in number, the company has expanded distribution outside of St. louis into Kansas city and columbia, Missouri. The team at craft Republic includes account managers nick Pepera and Katie Herrera, the former tasting-room manager at Side Project cellar in Maplewood, Missouri, as well as “central command” Erica Ivers, craft courier William Woods and “captain of quality” Brian devine. –Huong Truong 314.241.5458, ourcraftrepublic.com

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if you’ve sipped Heavy Riff Brewing Co.’s Squeeze Box, a slightly tart lemon wheat ale, or its creamy american brown ale, velvet Underbrown, we have good news: in June, the St. louis brewery introduced distribution for the first time since opening its tasting room in the Dogtown neighborhood in 2013. you can now find both beers on draft at more than 48 bars and restaurants across the area. –L.M. (heavyriffbrewing.com)

Provenance: Wichita, Kansas Style: grisette (3.8% ABV) PairingS: Camembert and aromatic soft cheeses • Oysters • Chicken or halibut with beurre blanc grisette is a lesser-known cousin of the saison, first made to quench the thirst of 19th-century miners in southern Belgium. With Standard Issue, the brewers at central Standard Brewing sought to emulate a bright, tart Sauvignon Blanc with dry minerality. The beer is fermented with a wild house culture and is then blended in 1,000-liter oak puncheons; it later undergoes a second fermentation in the bottle. The complex grain bill includes spelt, raw wheat, rye and buckwheat. The final product was worth the work: Standard Issue won a silver medal in the Belgian category at the great American Beer Fest in 2016. It’s packaged in 500-milliliter bottles and available year-round at the brewery. –P.D. 316.260.8515, centralstandardbrewing.com

International Tap House Kansas City

Third Wheel BRewing

Shared Brewing

In June, St. Peters, Missouri, got its first craft brewery when six friends and partners opened Third Wheel Brewing. Third Wheel’s team includes brewmaster Abbey Spencer and co-owners Ron and Valerie Woerndle, Wade and Erin Alberty and Brad Wheeling. Every staff member is either a certified cicerone or certified beer expert, and in addition to Third Wheel’s beers, the tasting room serves a lengthy and impressive list of both local and national craft beers. Musttry house beers include the Ophelia’s Wit, a Belgian wit made with coriander, orange zest and rosemary, and Trixie’s Pale Ale, an American pale ale with notes of citrus and pine. If you’re not sure what to order, try the Berliner weisse flight featuring rotating flavored syrups like cherry-almond and lemongrass. –M.G.

What do you call a side project of Side Project Brewing? Shared. cory and Karen King’s acclaimed Maplewood, Missouri, brewery, which famously got its start out of Perennial Artisan Ales in St. louis, opened a new brewery and tasting room just down the street from their Side Project cellar last december. The new space allows Side Project to increase production of its oak-aged beers, while also allowing cory and new brewers Brian Ivers and Tommy Manning to experiment with styles that don’t touch oak – like a northeast-style pale ale, English barleywine and Pilsner. Just like the coveted Side Project bottles, Shared beers are available exclusively at Side Project’s two Maplewood locations. –H.R.

▲ International Tap House, also known as iTap, the St. louis-based regional chain of craft-beer bars, launched an outpost in Kansas city this summer. The bar offers 56 craft taps and 500 local, national and international beers in its refrigerated coolers. If you’re unsure of what to order, consult beer-savvy manager Jon Whitaker. Situated across the street from Border Brewing co. and double Shift Brewing co., with Torn label Brewing co. just minutes away, iTap has solidified this stretch of the crossroads Arts district as a local craft-beer destination. –P.D.

636.323.9810, thirdwheelbrewing.com

314.224.5211, sideprojectbrewing.com

816.701.6066, internationaltaphouse.com

PHOTO cOuRTESy THIRd WHEEl BREWIng

PHOTO cOuRTESy SHAREd BREWIng

PHOTO cOuRTESy InTERnATIOnAl TAP HOuSE

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BKS Artisan Ales

Good News Brewing CO.

TwO Plumbers Brewery + Arcade

Brian and Mary Rooney will open BKS Artisan Ales in Kansas City’s Brookside East neighborhood this fall. An award-winning homebrewer with seven years of experience, Brian is now working with a three-barrel system in BKS’ brewhouse. Seek out hoppy ales in the tasting room such as Antithesis, a Midwest-style IPA with layers of crisp malt, bold hops and a dry finish, and Tiny Clouds, a hazy Northeast-style hoppy blonde ale. The brewery also produces stouts, sours and Belgian-inspired brews, including Bière de Ferme, a farmhouse-style ale with notes of white wine and citrus balanced by a golden malt profile with a dry finish. –P.D.

Craft beer fans in O’Fallon, Missouri, certainly had good news to celebrate this summer: Former homebrewers Dan Tripp, Matt Fair and Josh Miller opened Good News Brewing Co. in the former Patke’s Farm Dairy building. On a small one-barrel brewing system, the trio produces Perfect Storm Pale Ale, Belgian White and Dirty Laundry Brown Ale (named for the coin-operated laundromat located next door) alongside more inventive brews like a chocolate-pomegranate stout and, soon, a persimmon Christmas ale. Grab a pint, or better yet, a flight, to pair with a Buffalo chicken pizza straight out of Good News’ wood-fired oven. –H.R.

In March, childhood friends Robert Schowengerdt and John Simon opened Two Plumbers Brewery + Arcade, a brewery-meets-arcade bar in St. Charles, Missouri. (The name nods to overalls-clad brothers Mario and Luigi.) In addition to classic pinball and cabinet arcade games, including, of course, Super Mario Bros. and Donkey Kong, the brewery offers 10 beers on tap, including a handful of house options. Simon is the head brewer, and he uses a two-barrel system to make beers like Braunem Mantel, an American brown ale, and St. Porkins, a smoked porter. –M.G.

bksartisanales.com

636.294.6593, goodnewsbrewing.com

636.224.8626, twoplumbers.com

PHOTO COURTESY BKS ARTISAN ALES

PHOTO BY JACKLYN MEYER

PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

Mark Twain Brewing Co. begins canning and doubles production

◀ Mark Twain Brewing Co. has been brewing beers named for the famous author’s most well-known characters in Hannibal, Missouri, for the past three years. This year Mark Twain celebrated banner achievements in production, increasing its output by 100 percent. This has given brewers Cat Golden and Dave Alley more freedom to innovate and experiment with the barrel-aged beers in their Brewers’ Reserve Series, which has increased seven-fold since 2015. This year, the line grew to include Molly Brown, a brown ale made with maple syrup and aged in bourbon barrels; Hocuscadabra, a peach saison aged in Chardonnay barrels; and Ol’ Pudd’nhead, an English-style barleywine aged in bourbon barrels. Next month, the brewery will release its second-annual Passport to Russia, a Russian imperial stout aged in Four Roses bourbon barrels. And thanks to Mark Twain’s new canning line, flagship beers like Clemens’ Kölsch and Huck’s Habanero-Apricot Wheat are now distributed in St. Louis, Kansas City and Columbia, Missouri. –Rose Hansen 573.406.1300, marktwainbrewery.com PHOTO By CHeryL WALLer

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martin City Brewing Co.’s alChemy Coffee stout

Brewery emperial’s pre-prohiBition pils

Provenance: Kansas City Style: American stout (6.3% ABV) PairingS: Coffee-rubbed roast beef brisket with stout-pan jus reduction • Dark chocolate cake

Provenance: Kansas City Style: American Pilsner (5.3% ABV) PairingS: Spicy shrimp with chimichurri • Wood-fired grilled chicken • Tri-tip steak sandwich

Matt Moore, co-owner of Martin City Brewing Co. in Kansas City, and Benjamin Farmer of Alchemy Coffee & Bake House in Lawrence, Kansas, share a passion for craft beer. Eventually this led the pair to collaborate on a coffee stout made with Alchemy’s cold-brewed nitro coffee. The coffee itself has a fruitiness and slight bitterness that allows the chocolate and roasted notes in the beer to shine. The stout is a seasonal release available on tap and in 12-ounce cans from Oct. 15 through the end of the year. –P.D.

Brewery Emperial master brewer and co-owner Keith Thompson adapted an American Pilsner recipe that’s more than 100 years old to make Pre-Prohibition Pils. The beer is made with 20 percent sweet corn, a nontraditional Pilsner ingredient that adds a trace of sweetness. Intended to be a “throwback to the great Pilsners brewed before Prohibition,” Thompson also uses classic Pilsner malt to balance fresh German Hallertau hops for a clean, crisp beer. The Pils is available on a rotating basis at the tasting room. –P.D.

816.268.2222, martincitybrewingcompany.com

816.945.9625, breweryemperial.com

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Main & Mill Brewing Co. Bottles first beers

▲ Located in a historic 130-year old building in Festus, Missouri, Main & Mill Brewing Co. first opened in 2015. The microbrewery produces best-selling brews like the Missouri Brunch Stout aged in Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels and the Green Chile Ale that gets its heat from Anaheim and serrano chile peppers. Its beers were only available to sip in the tasting room until August, when the family-owned operation released its first bottled beer, Trail of Totality, a tart wheat beer aged on blackberries and black raspberries, made in honor of the recent solar eclipse. The brewery followed that initial bottle release late last month with the debut of an oak-aged imperial breakfast stout and a triple-chile imperial stout in bottles. Main & Mill bottled fewer than 400 bottles of each. Moving forward, the brewery anticipates bottling four to six of its beers each year. Co-owner Denny Foster plans to begin distributing a limited number of kegs to a few St. Louis-area establishments, including Center Ice Brewery in Midtown, which is now serving Main & Mill beer. –M.G. 636.543.3031, mainandmill.com

The U.R.B.

White Rooster Farmhouse Brewery

Brewers experiment with new beers all the time, but most of their creations are never tasted beyond the conditioning tank. Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. (UCBC) in St. Louis is seeking to change that with its Urban Research Brewery, or U.R.B., a pilot brewery that opened in December. Situated next to UCBC’s Grove Brewery and Bierhall, the U.R.B. features a consumer-research bar where guests can order test flights of four two-ounce samples for $1, and then provide feedback instantly via smartphone. Pop in Wednesday through Saturday from 5 to 8pm and you might find three different Belgian-style beers on offer, a trio of refreshing radlers or even seasonal pumpkin ales. The U.R.B. also serves New York-style pies and pizza by the slice. –L.M.

In 2015, Michael Deutschmann, Eric Ogilvie and Chris Van Horn started brewing Belgian-style ales in a farmhouse occupied by a white rooster. Last March, they opened a 6,500-square foot brewery and tasting room in downtown Sparta, Illinois, named for that same bird. Beneath a vaulted truss ceiling that evokes the trio’s farmhouse roots, patrons can enjoy a range of saisons, barleywines and porters. The partners are most interested in producing barrel-aged sours, although the rotating tap selection has also featured a Northeast-style IPA, a barrel-fermented hoppy Pilsner, a dark farmhouse ale and a smoked rye porter. The tasting room is kid- and dog-friendly, and local food trucks are parked outside daily, making White Rooster an outing the whole family can enjoy. –R.H.

314.222.0143, urbpizzaandbeer.com

618.449.2077, whiteroosterfarmhousebrewery.com

PHOTO BY MABEL SUEN

PHOTO BY ELAINE ROHDE

ON TAP

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Well-known for its fine wines and scenic vineyard in Potosi, Missouri, Edg-Clif Farms & Vineyard unveiled a craft brewery in May 2016. Beers are brewed on site by nick colombo, a St. louis native who joined edg-clif in april. the tasting room’s beer list includes a cream ale, Pilsner, iPa, hefeweizen and various rotating selections, including a wheat beer in the summer and stouts in the winter. this fall, colombo recommends the seasonal porter, which he describes as a “stout-light.” –R.H. (edg-clif.com)

PHOTO COURTESY MAIN & MILL BREWING CO.

4 hands Brewing Co.’s loose PartiCles

Mother’s Brewing Co.’s UnCanny aMeriCan Pale ale

Provenance: St. Louis Style: Double IPA (8% ABV) PairingS: Fried cheese curds • Spicy trashed wings with blue cheese

Provenance: Springfield, Missouri Style: American pale ale (5.6% ABV) PairingS: Fish and chips • Burger with pepper Jack cheese • Apple pie

One particular ingredient sets 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s Loose Particles apart from your average double IPA and makes it incredibly unique: hop powder. The ingredient gives beer the same intense citrusy flavor characteristics that IPA drinkers love without the astringency that hop pellets impart. Loose Particles is a very drinkable IPA, with a smooth body that’s enhanced by oats and wheat. The seasonal release is available in 22-ounce bottles. –J.P.

Mother’s Brewing Co.’s Uncanny American pale ale is made with a foundation of American and English malts. The malts provide structure and balance to the session beer, while bold American and German hops (Galaxy, Simcoe and Mandarina Bavaria) pack an intense punch. The aroma and flavor feature sweet hints of mandarin orange, grapefruit and stone fruit. The initial malty sweetness is followed by a hoppy mineral finish. Uncanny is a spring release that’s available seasonally in six-pack bottles. –P.D.

314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com

417.862.0423, mothersbrewing.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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Earthbound Beer Expansion Perennial artisan ales’ les’ abraxas Provenance: St. Louis Style: Imperial stout (10% ABV) PairingS: Hearty beef chili • S’mores ▲ A lot has changed in the three years since Earthbound Beer opened in a tiny 1,000-square-foot space in St. Louis with a one-and-a-half-barrel brewing system. The brewery has gained a loyal customer base for its fun and experimental beers, and in 2015, founders Rebecca Schranz, Stuart Keating and Jeff Siddons announced big news: They leased an 8,000-square-foot space down the street from the brewery with plans to relocate it there. The building is the last remaining structure from the pre-Prohibition Cherokee Brewery Co. and includes an underground barrel vault where beer used to be cold-fermented and stored. Earthbound has removed more than 1 million pounds of detritus from the vaults and will barrel-age beers in the space, plus potentially use it to host private events. After an almost two-year renovation, Earthbound celebrated the opening of the new location last month, featuring seating for 99 inside and another 80 outside in the beer garden. The building includes a seven-barrel brewing system, a tasting room offering up to 16 beers on tap and a food menu developed by Vista Ramen chef-owner Chris Bork. –H.T. 314.769.9576, earthboundbeer.com PHOTO By EMILy SUzANNE MCDONALD

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Abraxas, Perennial Artisan Ales’ famous imperial stout brewed with ancho chile peppers, cacao nibs, vanilla beans and cinnamon sticks, tops beer lists around the country every year. Last October marked the first time Abraxas was brewed in Perennial’s new 15-barrel brewhouse, which could have impacted the flavor if the recipe wasn’t precisely adjusted to accommodate the larger batch size. Lucky for us, the brewers at Perennial know exactly what they’re doing: Big cinnamon aromas and flavors mix nicely with rich, sweet chocolate and vanilla that help cut through the heat from the chiles. Abraxas doesn’t last long once it’s released, so act quickly. Abraxas is a limited-release available in 750-milliliter bottles. –J.P. 314.631.7300, perennialbeer.com

Mother’s Brewing Co.’s Foggy notion, a rich, malty and boozy english-style barleywine aged in sherry

barrels, was an instant hit when the Springfield, Missouri-based brewery released it in 2011. Mother’s hasn’t bottled the beer since 2013 due to a lack of sherry barrels available in the U.S. – until this year. look for Foggy notion, now aged in Spanish sherry barrels, to be released next month. –L.M. (mothersbrewing.com)

Torn Label Brewing Co. Begins Canning

Greer Brewing CO.

SmOke Brewing CO.

Chris Greer first brewed beer for fun before realizing he wanted to make his hobby a full-time job. He planned out his brewery over the course of two years and even took a formal brewing education class before opening Greer Brewing Co. in Ellisville, Missouri, this summer. The brewery uses a 15-barrel system to brew a mix of eight seasonal and year-round beers, plus one cask-conditioned beer, which is served using a “beer engine” to pump brew out of the faucet rather than pushing it out with pressured gas. Opt for beers such as the Old Dog Skip (named after Greer’s family’s Gordon setter), a malty Vienna lager; Pizza Bones, a red IPA with floral, citrusy and fruity notes; and Separation Anxiety, a Belgian dark strong ale. –M.G.

Smoke Brewing Co., a brewpub specializing in craft beer and barbecue, opened in downtown Lee’s Summit, Missouri, in March. Father-and-son team Jeff and Josh Edwards and their family, including Josh’s wife, Lanni, gutted a 100-year-old building to house the new brewery. Brewer Bert Lightle runs the 10-barrel brewing system, producing sweet, malty Black Udder Milk Stout, Juice American IPA, crisp Butcher Block Pils and Nightcap Espresso Stout featuring espresso from Post Coffee Co. Save room for barbecue, too, including the beer-brined smoked and grilled half chicken, Pork 3.0 (pulled pork, ribs and pork belly burnt ends) or the Briskwich sandwich with roasted garlic mayo, onion jam, Gouda, bacon and smoked brisket on a marble rye Farm to Market Bread Co. bun. –P.D.

▲ After nearly two years in business and a consistent stream of customer requests, Torn Label Brewing Co. founders Travis Moore and Rafi Chaudry began canning three of the Kansas City brewery’s core beers in six packs of 12-ounce cans: Alpha Pale Ale, House Brew coffeewheat stout and Belgian-inspired Monk & Honey ale. Torn Label also packaged Magic Magic, an East Coast-style IPA brewed with raspberries and lemon peel, in cans this year as a limited release. A line wrapped around the block hours before the brewery opened, and the beer quickly gained a cult following. Torn Label also released its barrel-aged Long Time Comin’ imperial stout, made by aging a single batch of imperial stout in seven different bourbon, wine and whiskey barrels (including an extremely rare whiskey barrel from Ireland) to produce bottled variants. –P.D.

greerbrewingco.com

816.525.2337, smokebrewingcompany.com

816.656.5459, tornlabel.com

PHOTO By JUSTIN PHELPS

PHOTO By APRIL FLEMING

PHOTO COURTESy TORN LABEL BREwING CO.

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Lawrence Beer CO.

Steampunk BRew WOrks

Lawrence, Kansas, has a new craft brewery: Lawrence Beer Co., a 15-barrel, two-vessel brewery and restaurant in the Warehouse Arts District opened in September. President Matt Williams co-founded the brewery with Adam Williams (no relation), Brendon Allen and chef Ken Baker. Head brewer Sam McClain worked at Half Acre Beer Co. in Chicago for five years and Boulevard Brewing Co. for a year before joining Lawrence Beer Co., where he now focuses on American ales and IPAs. Over the summer he released Summer Saison, a dry saison brewed with rye and made in collaboration with Ska Brewing Co. in Durango, Colorado. –P.D.

Dave Deaton opened Steampunk Brew Works inside St. Louis Wine & Beermaking in Town and Country, Missouri, in May. It was a natural move for Deaton, who operates the homebrewing and winemaking supply shop and has long promoted brewing education and local craft beer tastings at the store. Using a three-barrel system, the brewery offers eight house beers on tap, such as Cerassus, a wheat beer made with a cherry purée; Constant Clockwork, a New Englandstyle IPA; and an Oktoberfest. –M.G. 636.230.8277, steampunkbrewworks.com

lawrencebeerco.com

Friendship Brewing Co. Expands

◀ After celebrating Friendship Brewing Co.’s first anniversary in June, owners Brian Nolan and Mike Wood were more than living their, “Friends making beer, beer making friends” mission. They’d made so many friends, in fact, that the Wentzville, Missouri, brewery was at capacity most days and struggled to keep up with production of its five to 15 rotating beers. To accommodate these growing needs, the partners purchased a home next to the brewery and completely gutted and renovated it to act as a private event space for groups of about 50. They’ve since added more than 1,000 square feet to the brewery’s patio, as well as an outdoor pavilion and bar. All told, Friendship can now host up to 200 guests. In the near future, the brewery will add yet another building to its footprint, allowing it to triple its current brewing capacity for favorites such as Rasmanian Devil, a seasonal American red ale made with jalapeños and raspberries, and Wentzville Downtown Brown, a hoppy brown ale. Aside from expansion, Nolan and Wood are hoping to soon can Friendship beers and eventually open a bourbon and cigar bar in Wentzville. –M.G. 636.856.9300, friendshipbrewco.com PHOTO By MABEL SUEN

Newly Renamed Levi Garrison & Sons Brewing Co. ◀ Ninja Moose Brewery officially changed its name in February 2017 to Levi Garrison & Sons Brewing Co. The original name was inspired by owner Scott Falke’s misreading of Nina Moose Lake outside of Ely, Minnesota, during a fishing trip with family. The name was changed in response to a trademark issue with Canada-based Moosehead Breweries Limited. The new name was drawn from Falke’s great-grandfather, who owned a sorghum company called – you guessed it – Levi Garrison & Sons Country Sorghum. Based in the small town of Hamilton, Missouri, about 65 miles north of Kansas City, the brewery initially crammed a small tasting room and one-barrel brewhouse into an old brick telephone company building. The brewery is currently in the process of a major expansion: Falke plans to triple the size of the brewhouse and tasting room and add a five-barrel system to increase production capacity. –P.D. 816.668.9421, lgsbrewingco.com PHOTO COURTESy LEVI GARRISON & SONS BREWING CO.

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Alpha Brewing Co. Opening in Tower Grove South

▲ Alpha Brewing Co. owner and brewer Derrick Langeneckert announced in April that his Downtown St. Louis brewery would be opening a production brewery in Tower Grove South in January. The new 13,000-square-foot location spans three buildings at the intersection of Morganford Road and Fyler Avenue and will serve Alpha favorites including Delphian, a sour blonde conditioned in Chardonnay barrels, and Muscoby, a Russian imperial stout. The new space will allow the brewery to increase its production from 200 barrels to around

1,000. Other perks include additional parking, a 100-seat tasting room, a 200-seat outdoor beer garden, food service and the capacity for two 1,000-gallon foeders for aging new brews. Alpha beers are currently served on draft in St. Louis at Mangia Italiano, Foam, The Heavy Anchor and West End Pub, with hopes to expand to 15 accounts in the near future. –M.G. 314.621.2337, alphabrewingcompany.com PHOTO COURTESy ALPHA BREWING CO.

Fringe BeerwOrks Co-founders Mark Myers and Eddie Pease opened Fringe Beerworks, the first official brewery in the 151-year history of Lee’s Summit, Missouri, last December. The tasting room’s interior and the brewery’s red, black and white logo were inspired by old-fashioned traveling circuses and magic shows. There’s no sleight of hand behind its best-selling brews, though, such as Doc Myers’ Snake Oil Black IPA, a traditional English bitter, or the robust Madam X Milk Stout, made with coffee from Kansas City-based The Roasterie. –P.D.

Logboat brewing Co. and 4 Hands brewing rewing Co.’s LiCense to danCe PRovEnAncE: Columbia, Missouri, and St. Louis STylE: Blonde fruit ale (8% ABV) PAIRIngS: Apple pie • Pork tenderloin with peach salsa

816.600.2552, fringebeerworks.com

ON TAP

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Every inch of Scratch Brewing Co.’s new Serpent Room is covered in bright, eye-catching artwork and sculptures from southern Illinois artist Brett Douglas Hunter. The Ava, Illinois, brewery debuted the room in January as an overflow bar and tasting room for big festivals and events, as well as a private space for parties. –L.M. (scratchbeer.com)

The only thing better than a local brewery making a great beer is two local breweries coming together to make a great beer. Inspired by the Sex on the Beach cocktail, this Logboat Brewing Co. and 4 Hands Brewing Co. blonde ale is made with fresh peaches, cranberries and orange zest. Dubbed License to Dance, the beer debuted last December. It starts sweet on the tongue with strong peach flavor and a tart cranberry finish. License to Dance is a winter release available in 22-ounce bottles. –J.P. 573.397.6786, logboatbrewing.com 314.436.1559, 4handsbrewery.com

Schlafly Beer’s From the Ibex Cellar series o’FaLLon brewery’s sHow-Me iPaa PRovEnAncE: Maryland Heights, Missouri STylE: American IPA (6.5% ABV) PAIRIngS: Citrus-marinated grilled chicken breasts • Orange zest sugar cookies Nearly 17 years after introducing the first locally brewed American IPA to the St. Louis area, O’Fallon Brewery is still surprising palates. Made with Citra and Mosaic hops and named after Missouri’s nickname, Show-Me IPA is only the third IPA to ever be released by the brewery. This pale gold beer has a huge, rocky white foam on top and big fruit notes, including grapefruit, melon, orange zest, peach and even some subtle berry, in flavor and aroma. While it’s hop-dominant, it’s not overly bitter. Show-Me IPA is a seasonal release available in 12-ounce bottles. –J.P. 636.474.2337, ofallonbrewery.com ▲ Schlafly Pale Ale is the brew responsible for introducing many St. Louisans to craft beer. Since opening The Schlafly Tap Room in 1991, The Saint Louis Brewery (and its Schlafly Beer brand) has solidified its reputation as one of the region’s foremost craft breweries with year-round classics including Kölsch, hefeweizen and, of course, the pale ale, in addition to seasonal staples like Oktoberfest and Summer Lager. But to celebrate its 25th anniversary this past December, Schlafly went in a totally new direction. Over a year and a half in the making, its premium From the Ibex Cellar series features more experimental offerings like a barrel-aged imperial stout, gooseberry gose and barrel-aged coffee stout available in four-packs

of 11.2-ounce bottles. The most recent release, Local Oak, is a Belgian sour that’s fermented with Lactobacillus, Brettanomyces and two different saison yeast strains, lending it a tart and fruity character. The beer is then aged in foeders made from – you guessed it – locally harvested Ozark timber. The Ibex Cellar series takes its name from the room located beneath The Schlafly Tap Room, and the packaging is designed to mimic the architecture of the historic building, which was the first new brewpub to open in Missouri since Prohibition. –H.R 314.241.2337, schlafly.com

for more craft-beer news and recommendations, visit feastmagazine.com.

PHOTO COuRTESy SCHLAFLy BEER

Inspired Local Food Culture

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oasted ravioli, gooey butter cake and pork steaks are thoroughly beloved St. Louis foods. But there’s one thing the Gateway to the West can’t seem to agree on: St. Louis-style pizza. Characterized by cracker-thin crust, oregano-seasoned sauce, creamy Provel cheese and toppings from square edge to square edge, it’s rarely found outside of the metro area (and some nearby cities like Columbia, Missouri). Earlier this year, top NBA draft pick and St. Louis native Jayson Tatum jokingly told a sportswriter that his No. 1 draft pick would be St. Louis-style pizza. “Never even knew that was a thing,” the reporter tweeted. Unsurprisingly, Tatum has since been named an official spokesperson for Imo's Pizza. But not everyone is on board. It’s a running joke on Jimmy Kimmel Live! that the host detests Imo’s Pizza, the local chain that made the style ubiquitous, since being introduced to it by his wife, Molly McNearney, who hails from St. Louis. Naturally, when other St. Louis natives like Jenna Fischer, Ellie Kemper and Jon Hamm visit his show, Kimmel asks them about Imo’s. He even had some delivered for Hamm during a 2013 episode. “For those who don’t know, you’re from St. Louis,” Kimmel says to Hamm. “There’s a pizza place that I’ve been at odds with called Imo's Pizza in St. Louis. Now, it's a beloved chain in St. Louis and ... the pizza, by the way, is terrible.” Hamm, of course, disagrees, and digs into the pizza as well as Kimmel’s argument. “You want to get the middle piece. Because that's where all the good stuff is,” he instructs. Kimmel is unimpressed. “What does it taste like?” “You can taste the Gateway Arch,” Hamm says. “It tastes like 11 World Series victories.” That’s the thing about St. Louis-style pizza – for locals, it stirs a particular sort of hometown pride. The square-cut pizza is iconic in St. Louis, and today seems almost as central to the city’s identity as beer or baseball. The same is true of pizza in cities like New York City, Detroit and Chicago, which each lay claim to their own definitive styles of ‘za.

Written by Nancy Stiles Newspaper clippings from the St. Louis Post-Dispatch

Regardless of your zip code, though, we generally consider pizza as fundamentally American as hot dogs, cheeseburgers or apple pie. Yet less than a century ago, it was barely known of in St. Louis – let alone debated as one of the city’s most celebrated dishes.

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Amedeo Fiore didn’t set out to bring pizza to St. Louis when he moved there in the 1930s. Instead, it was his tenor singing voice he hoped to share with his new hometown. After moving from Chicago with his wife, Betty, Fiore sang with The Muny and the New York Metropolitan Opera when it came to town, and served as director of the Italian Radio Theater. The couple eventually opened a small Italian restaurant in 1945 in the low-ceilinged basement of 204 N. Sarah St., inside the Melrose apartment building, which had hosted a string of restaurants for at least 20 years prior. Much later, St. Louis Post-Dispatch restaurant critic Joe Pollack would describe the space as “especially popular with short persons and athletic types with reflexes good enough to duck the pipes.” The small but full-service Melrose Pizzeria was close to The Chase Park Plaza Hotel, so legendary Chase Club maître d’ Hack Ulrich would send hotel guests and entertainers who were craving East Coast-style “Little Italy” Italian food – including many who had their first taste of pizza while serving in World War II – to Melrose. “A lot of it was because of Hack Ulrich,” says Ron Elz, St. Louis radio broadcaster and historian. “He started noticing a lot of people asking him for pizza, and was trying to find it for them. He knew Fiore and started talking to him about it, and Fiore knew about pizza, and that’s how the whole thing started.” Fiore began to take out ads in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch – but in order to expand his audience, he first had to explain just what pizza was. “Say (peet-sa),” he shared in an April 1947 ad. “New arrival in St. Louis, the original Neapolitan pizza. Baked in special oven, three different ways with – tomatoes and cheese, tomatoes and sausage, tomatoes and anchovies.” Fiore had imported an oven from Italy and developed his own recipe. That month, the newspaper featured Fiore in several photographs making his proprietary dough and cutting the pizza into squares using scissors (pictured left). “It is part pie, part hot sandwich, and the restaurant where it is baked is called a pizzeria (peetser-ee-ah),” wrote Frances Dawson, although she mistakenly assures readers that basil and oregano are the same thing. She describes the pizza at Melrose as a rich yeast dough topped with tomato sauce, a layer of Provolone – “a cheese similar in taste to Swiss or Gruyère” – strips of anchovies, pitted olives, ground pork and beef, more cheese and olive oil. Inspired Local Food Culture

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The brothers reopened as Parente’s Pizzeria in 1948, “serving the famous Italian pizza,” plus a “complete menu of other Italian and American foods,” including steak and spaghetti. Lou and Joe eventually had multiple restaurants in several locations – including Parente’s Italian Village in Rock Hill, in the building that now houses Hacienda – but split into separate ventures as well. “They fought like cats and dogs all the time,” Elz remembers. “Joe was the one who ran the kitchen, and Lou was the one who was always out in front. He was the glad-hand guy, and Joe was behind the scenes.” In 1954, a third pizzeria opened in the Melrose basement: Rossino’s, a combination of the names of owners Roy and Nina Russo and Frank Gianino. Like its predecessors, Rossino’s served a full menu of Italian dishes – veal Parmigiano, carbonara, lasagna – and thin-crust pizza. The Russos’ daughter Nancy (who began working under the famously low ceiling at age 12) and her husband, Tom Zimmerman, bought Rossino’s in 1963. The restaurant became a hangout for athletes, movie stars and local celebrities, especially Charley Winner, who was head coach of the St. Louis Cardinals football team from 1966 to 1971. “Winner, who was a trencherman’s trencherman, and his assistants made Rossino’s an almost-every-Tuesday stop,” wrote Pollack in 1977, “gathering in the Pipe Room, named for its plumbing, rather than its smoking, heritage. The head coach even added a dish, though it never stayed on the menu, when he convinced the kitchen that a sirloin steak – a large sirloin steak – would be better with cacciatore sauce than the traditional chicken.” The names that came out of Rossino’s dining room will be familiar to many St. Louisans: Mike Faille of Talayna’s is Nancy’s uncle, as is Charlie Gitto; the late Mike Del Pietro Sr. was her brother-in-law, and waited tables there. Rossino’s only closed in 2006, when Zimmerman was ready to retire.

PICTURED FROM TOP: Inside the Melrose pizzeria on Natural Bridge Road; Amedeo and Elizabeth Fiore; the exterior of the Melrose apartments PHOTOS COURTESY LOST TABLES

“With scissors Amadeo [sic] Fiore, proprietor-chef of the Melrose Pizzeria, cuts pizza into squares for serving,” the caption reads. “The squares, held with a paper napkin, are eaten from the hand.” Elz, whose grandfather ran Olympia Pharmacy a block from Melrose, remembers the large shears Fiore used. He was just 7 years old when the pizzeria opened. “Fiore’s had a much more bitter sauce; there was more tomato paste in it than people use [now],” he says. “[Pizza is] cheesier today – it was more sauce with toppings.” Fiore’s pizza was so popular, he had to move to a larger space by the end of the year. Melrose Pizzeria reopened at 502628 Easton (now Dr. Martin Luther King Drive) in the spring of 1948. “Just try it once and you’ll come for it steady!” Fiore promised in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch when announcing the new location. “We mean the original Neapolitan PIZZA!” Over the next 58 years, the pipe-laden basement at 204 N. Sarah St. would go on to house two of the most famous and influential pizzerias in St. Louis.

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After only two years in business, Fiore sold the Melrose basement space to two employees who had started as busboys and waiters, brothers Louis and Joseph Parente.

“To me, the most interesting thing is the Melrose apartment building itself,” says Harley Hammerman, who runs the website Lost Tables, which profiles bygone St. Louis restaurants from Tony Faust’s to Niche. “It’s amazing how much history was crammed into the basement at 204 N. Sarah. Melrose Pizzeria, Parente’s and Rossino’s were all in that same space. Plus, that’s where St. Louis pizza was born.” Although the Hill – nicknamed so because it’s the highest point within city limits – in south St. Louis had been an Italian community for decades, it wasn’t the center of St. Louis’ initial pizza frenzy. The neighborhood first gained attention when clay deposits were discovered in the 1830s. Later, clay mine and plant expansion brought Italian immigrants to the area beginning in the 1890s – first from Lombardy, and then Sicily – although the community originally settled Downtown. As the second generation of Italians came of age, the Great Depression “broadened the vistas of the Hill,” writes historian Gary Ross Mormino in his book Immigrants on the Hill: Italian Americans in St. Louis, 1882 to 1982. “Whereas an earlier generation shielded the community from the purview of interfering outside agencies, the Depression forced the neighborhood to look beyond its boundaries.” The Parentes finally debuted a pizzeria on the Hill in 1975, which Pollack reported on for the St. Louis Post Dispatch. “After nearly 30 years in the restaurant business, dispensing pizza, pasta and other Italian foods in four area locations, [the Parentes] have finally arrived on the Hill,” Pollack wrote. “‘I guess it is kind of peculiar,’ said Joe [Parente] as he wiped his hands on a long white apron. ‘You’d think that we’d start on the Hill, being Italian, but it just didn’t happen that way.’ Joe was in the kitchen and Lou behind the bar on a couple of pleasant visits to their newest location, 5356 Daggett Avenue.” Inspired Local Food Culture

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♦♦

♦

None of St. Louis’ earliest pizzerias used – at first, anyway – the now ubiquitous and divisive Provel cheese. There are conflicting origin stories, but one thing is certain: Chicagobased J.S. Hoffman Co. first applied for a Provel trademark in 1947, but it was denied because the name was too similar to another cheese called Provole. The trademark was eventually granted in 1950 for a processed cheese blend of Cheddar and Provolone (today it also contains Swiss and smoke flavoring).

restaurants. A pint-sized space on Thurman Avenue in the Shaw neighborhood housed the very first carry-out Imo’s, which Ed and Margie Imo opened in 1963 with a used oven, two refrigerators and a stove all bought for just $75.

Hurst, along with hundreds of other Missouri students, made the train trip to Washington, D.C., and then New York to visit the United Nations; you needed an A or B average and $100 (quite a sum at the time). After visiting the U.N. with fellow Cleveland students, Hurst and three friends were exploring the city when they saw a restaurant advertising “pizza pie.”

Provel is ideal for pizza, thanks to its buttery texture and low melting point, which makes it gooey even near room temperature. It’s creamy yet easy to bite through – perfect for topping small squares. A number of companies have owned the trademark since 1950, and it’s now controlled by a subsidiary of Kraft Foods – although it’s still virtually unavailable outside of the St. Louis area. The first pizzeria to really use Provel was Luigi’s Restaurant, which Luca “Luigi” Meglio opened at Watson Road and Arsenal Street in 1953. Meglio’s parents, Angiolina and Antonio, were Italian immigrants, and after he returned from World War II, he took a job waiting tables for his cousins Lou and Joe Parente. Angiolina mortgaged her house, and Meglio bought the space from Ron Elz’s father. Meglio, along with his brothers Frank and Tony, opened an Italian restaurant using their mother’s recipes. Meglio also developed a conveyor-belt pizza oven, and later opened a “frozen pizza factory” along with three additional restaurants.

“And we had no idea what pizza pie was, so we said, ‘Let’s go in and see,’” she says. “We sat in booths – I can see the booths right now – and the guy explained it, so we ordered a pizza pie and it was very big. We thought, ‘Oh, this is good! Maybe they’ll have it in St. Louis someday.”

PICTURED THIS PAGE: Luigi's Restaurant in 1953; the first Imo's Pizza in the Shaw neighborhood PHOTOS COURTESY LOST TABLES

“In the ‘40s and ‘50s, nobody delivered pizzas,” Elz remembers. “Restaurants didn’t deliver anything. With such a tiny storefront, obviously delivery would’ve been a big help to them.” In 1974, St. Louis Post-Dispatch columnist Jake McCarthy needed an easy dinner for his kids, so he and a friend picked up four pizzas from various establishments to taste test. They discovered, to their dismay, that Imo’s was the only place that would deliver to St. Louis’ central corridor. But satisfying the kids appetites was the real test. “Imo’s won hands outstretched,” McCarthy concluded. “The stuff it had was so beautifully blended, including crisp bacon, and it had an ample amount of tasty cheese sauce, I guess you’d call it, that made the last two pizzas look like they’d suffer through a drouth.” Imo’s no longer slings pizzas in the tiny Shaw space, but Ed and Margie Imo opened a second store just eight months after the first. By 1985, there were 30 locations in the greater St. Louis area, and the family opened the business up to franchisees. “You want real Italian PIZZA?” asked a 1976 Imo’s ad in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. “We have it.”

“Luca was a true entrepreneur known for hard work, hospitality, and great food,” notes his 2014 obituary in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. “At the height of his restaurant career, Luigi’s was known city wide as the place to go. His brothers helped him manage the four locations located across St. Louis City and County which employed 750 St. Louisans.” Meglio closed Luigi’s in 1981; a few years earlier, his brother Frank was shot in the back and robbed while dropping off a night deposit on Kingshighway. He survived, but it left Meglio worried for the safety of his daughters if they took over the business. Today, Provel has become synonymous with Imo’s Pizza, which opened with considerably less fanfare than earlier

“Nobody [I knew] had a car, so if you couldn’t get there by bus or streetcar, you didn’t go,” says Hurst, who was, at the time, a student at now-shuttered Cleveland High School. “I don’t remember going out to a restaurant for family occasions until after I was engaged. Going out to a restaurant, or thinking about different kinds of food – ‘Oh, let’s get Italian!’ – no, we were German. We ate German [food].”

There are almost 100 Imo’s pizzerias across the St. Louis area today, as well as in Columbia, Missouri; Springfield, Missouri; Overland Park, Kansas; Quincy, Illinois; and as far south as Sikeston, Missouri. You can order frozen pizzas and Provel cheese directly from Imos’ website and have them shipped anywhere in the country. In 2014, Margie and Ed were honored by then-St. Louis mayor Francis Slay for 50 years in business, with April 8 declared “Imo’s Day” in St. Louis.

♦♦

Eventually, the “Cleveland gang,” as Hurst calls them, hung out at Monte Bello Pizzeria, which remains open today – she says the nearby Roosevelt High School teens preferred Pagliacci’s, a now-shuttered pizza joint at Kingshighway and Manchester Avenue. Like Melrose, Monte Bello is housed in a basement. The restaurant actually began as a neighborhood bar owned by Mike and Helen Petrillo. During the 1930s, the Army Corps of Engineers and the Works Progress Administration were expanding the River Des Peres in South City. The Petrillos would send workers lunch orders (although not pizza at the time); after the project was completed, members of the crew came and helped the family hand-dig the basement that eventually became Monte Bello Pizzeria in 1950. Current owner Tom Nix grew up down the block, and his mother, Peggy Morgan, worked for the Petrillos. When he was just a toddler, he’d ride his tricycle up to the basement window, and Helen would shout, “Peggy, you’ve got a visitor!” Morgan and Nix’s stepfather bought the pizzeria from the Petrillos in 1965, and the two families remained close. Nix started working at Monte Bello himself in 1967 at age 8, folding pizza boxes and grating cheese. Over the years, Nix and his brother grew up and moved away, and his stepfather began cutting corners to account for a drop in business – not putting sauce and cheese all the way to the edge of the crust, using more sugar and water in the sauce. Steady customers from the nearby Stupp Bros. manufacturing plant kept business afloat even after nearly all the other midcentury pizzerias had closed, but it wasn’t the old Monte Bello.

♦

The first American pizzeria popped up in New York City in 1906, and the popularity of pizza quickly spread to other East Coast cities. Yet when Fiore opened Melrose Pizzeria in St. Louis some 39 years later, not many locals were familiar with pizza. In the 1950s, the dish had not pervaded the city’s dining scene, despite the success of Melrose, Parente’s Pizzeria and Rossino’s. The first time South City native Helen Hurst experienced the Italian delicacy was on a 1955 high school trip to New York City.

“I retired from the military in ’96, and I was living in Florida [when] I realized, my mom’s too old to be doing this,” Nix says. He moved back to St. Louis and began working at Monte Bello on the weekends. It didn’t surprise him that once word got out that he was back, old customers showed up during his shifts. The real work began four years ago, when Nix and his girlfriend, Lynn Cates, convinced his stepfather to retire. They closed for several months to repair water damage, clean the kitchen and replace the plumbing and electrical wiring, among other things. Inspired Local Food Culture

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They couldn’t save one wall of murals due to water damage, but on the left wall of the dining room are the remaining pseudo-frescoes of the Italian countryside originally painted in the 1950s. After you walk down a flight of stairs outside the unassuming white building, you enter the dimly lit space, which has white twinkling Christmas lights strung around the ceiling. Classic red-and-white checkered tablecloths cover a handful of tables. There’s a lone TV and a walk-up window where customers pick up take-out orders next to the kitchen door, which is constantly swinging open and closed as the waitstaff serves customers in the dining room.

Pseudo-frescoes of the Italian countryside at Monte Bello Pizzeria, originally painted in the 1950s.

“I was looking for the original recipe book from the [Petrillos], because I knew I had seen it before,” Nix says. “When we found it, and it was actually so faded and had sauce all over it, I used a magnifying glass and we wrote everything down until we had all the recipes, and changed everything back to the way it was supposed to be.” Today that includes handmade dough, sauce, Italian sausage, freshly grated cheese and proprietary spice mixes (think rosemary, fennel, oregano and sweet basil) in each of the different meats, cheese and sauces. The cheese is a mix of Provolone, mozzarella, Romano and Parmesan (plus around seven spices). Nix won’t use Provel; he isn’t shy about his distaste for it. The cornmeal-dusted crust is made in the classic thin St. Louis style, but it’s far from razor thin and holds up well to Monte Bello’s robust toppings. The square-cut pizza comes out on rectangular trays. The creamy cheese has more flavor than Provel, thanks in part to the visible flecks of fragrant oregano. Toppings are made fresh, like the spiced sausage on the John B. Special, with crispy bacon, sausage, sweet onion and mushroom. The combination of cheeses and a small amount of sauce allows the ingredients to melt together, which Nix says is key. Nix uses the original ovens, a double stack of U.S. Army ovens from 1942. “I can’t imagine how they got them down here, to be honest,” he laughs. “They’re heavy, trust me.” He also changed the gas valves, which upped the temperature from 350ºF to 585ºF, allowing for a quicker cook time. Staffers still turn the gas valves and light the ovens by hand, and Nix reckons those ovens will last far longer than he will. Cates says now that the original pizza recipes are back, people come to Monte Bello because it once again feels like home. “People come in here in their 70s, and they came here on their first date in high school,” she says. “The influx of social media has helped people who aren’t familiar find us – we get people from Edwardsville, Kirkwood, Ironton, St. Charles.” Right now, driving along River Des Peres, you might miss the faded white building among a row of residential homes. Cates says she recently mentioned updating the building’s exterior to some customers who were smoking outside, and they told her to reconsider. It’s part of the charm.

PHOTOS THIS PAGE BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

The dining room is steadily busy on a rainy Wednesday night when the phone rings. An employee beckons Cates over from her seat, adding that, “It’s some guy who just ordered a pizza.” She picks up the receiver, and after a few seconds, she walks back over to Nix and puts the call on speakerphone. “I just want to thank you for the best pizza I’ve ever eaten,” says the man on the other end of the line. “I didn’t even save any for my wife. I ate the whole pizza myself, and it was delicious.” “What makes us happy is the customer being happy,” Nix tells him. After he hangs up, he and Cates smile and laugh. “That happens all the time.” Monte Bello Pizzeria, 3662 Weber Road, St. Louis, Missouri, facebook.com/monte-bello-pizzeria-211250182332605 Inspired Local Food Culture

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A Smoking Gun Interactive Comedy Murder Mystery

Saddle up and return to the Old West. You are invited to a Cattlemen' s meeting at Miss Catty Mae West’s Saloon in Deadwood. The Rifleman and Wild Bill Hic-cup will join you when a Man with No Name drifts into town carrying a dead man on his saddle. Why don' t ya mosey on in and help us solve the mystery of the lost cattle. . . I mean, “Where’s the Beef?” Call for reservations today at 314-533-9830 Bring this ad in for $10 off per person Valid through October 2017. Not valid for groups.

Bissell Mansion Dinner Theatre

4426 Randall Place • St. Louis • 314.533.9830 • bissellmansion.com

Now in the Central West End An Oil & Vinegar Emporium Help us to welcome our newest Extra Virgin Olive Oils...Including three big winners at the New York International Olive Oil Competition. Including oils from Italy, Spain, Sicily, Greece and California Shop with us for your gourmet salt, pasta and seasoning needs. Check Website for Class Availability • diolivas.com West County 118 West County Center St. Louis, MO 63131 (P) 314.909.1171

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Central West End 115 N. Euclid between West Pine and Lindell

Furniture Repaired, Furniture Refinished 5 Year Workmanship Guarantee Quality Craftsmanship • Refinishing • Reupholstery Antique Restoration Repair • Custom Made Draperies Custom Made Furniture • New Furniture • Antiques Monday - Friday 8am - 4:30pm Appointments & Service Available 24 Hrs. A Day, 7 Days A Week

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TRY US FOR YOUR SPECIAL OCCASION! Chi Mangia Bene Vive Bene! ªT o Eat Well is to Live Wellº Proudly Serving Authentic Italian Food in a Family Atmosphere. Birthday, Graduation, Retirement, Corporate Parties! Let Us Cater Your Special Occasion Try Our Party Pans For A Delicious Meal For Any Size Group Featuring Daily Lunch & Dinner Specials Now selling our Signature Salad Dressing and Pasta Sauce. Bottled with love by our family for your family. Reservations Recommended, Hours of Operation: Tuesday - Saturday 11am-10pm • Sunday Noon-9pm • Closed Monday

5442 Old Hwy 21• Imperial • 636.942.2405 • trattoria-giuseppe.com

114 W. Mill St. • Waterloo, IL • 618.939.9933 • gallagherswaterloo.com

JOIN US FOR SUNDAY BRUNCH OR DINNER! Enjoy Our Award Winning Breakfast Menu With Our Delicious Boozy Breakfast Cocktails & Chef Mehmet© s Whole Roasted Lamb. Lunch: Tues-Fri :: Dinner: Tues-Sun :: Sunday Brunch Wine Flights: Tues-Wed :: Happy Hour: Tues-Fri Available for Private Parties and Catering

Turkish Mediterranean Cuisine. Known for our Meze (Small Plates), Lamb Dishes, Fresh Fish and Excellent Wine Selection.

6671 Chippewa Street • St. Louis • 314.645.9919 • ayasofiacuisine.com Inspired Local Food Culture

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TAylor PETrEhn MAKEs sErIously dElIcIous nEAPolITAn-sTylE PIZZA AT

1900 BArKEr BAKEry And cAfE –

And hE’s shArIng how you cAn MAKE IT AT hoME, Too.

MAKE PIZZA

Story by Liz MiLLer | recipeS by tayLor petrehn photography by angeLa bond

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ineteen years old and about a year out of culinary school, Taylor Petrehn was thrilled to land a position with James Beard award-winning chefs Colby and Megan Garrelts. The husband-and-wife team behind Kansas City's lauded Bluestem had recently been tapped to revamp the menu at Italian bistro Trezo Vino in Leawood, Kansas, where Petrehn would lead the pizza station. There was only one hiccup: Petrehn had never made a pizza from scratch.

"I learned that dough is the key to making good pizza," he says. "Good bread dough and good pizza dough are made the old-fashioned way, with just flour, salt, water and naturally occurring yeast, like a sourdough bacteria. Those are what cultivate flavor, and then you ferment it for a very long time and it starts to make the dough tender, moist and full of flavor. You create a dough that's the backbone of the pizza.”

Just six years – and a James Beard semifinalist nomination for Outstanding Baker – later, it’s hard to believe that Petrehn, who co-owns 1900 Barker Bakery and Cafe in Lawrence, Kansas, had never before baked bread, let alone made pizza dough. Although he lacked experience at the time, he was prepared to do the research and work required to impress the Garrelts – and, in turn, the guests at Trezo Vino.

He devoured every page of Chad Robertson’s Tartine Bread, a bread-baking guide from award-winning Tartine Bakery in San Francisco. By the time winter turned to spring, Petrehn had a new culinary obsession. “I really fell in love with breadmaking,” he says. “I love pizza, but I really love bread the most.”

He started researching traditional Italian Neapolitan pizza and doing R&D to refine the basics: Make simple fermented dough from scratch, top the proofed dough with minimal ingredients such as fresh mozzarella, raw tomatoes, olive oil and fresh basil, and bake the pizza at a very high temperature for a short amount of time. "I became obsessed with pizza," Petrehn says. "I would spend my 40 hours a week at work making pizza, and then I’d go home and read more about pizza online.” Trezo Vino closed in March 2012, but Petrehn's passion for pizza was just beginning. He was living with his parents in Paola, Kansas, and built his own wood-fired oven in their backyard to continue experimenting with Neapolitan-style pies. He completed the oven in the fall and only had a few weeks to make pizzas before winter temporarily sent him back inside. Petrehn soon moved into an apartment and started baking bread to learn more about dough in general.

Both loves are on display at 1900 Barker, which Petrehn opened with his brother, Reagan, in 2015. Tangy loaves of country sourdough rest alongside creamy oat-porridge bread, each with an airy and delicate open crumb. Buttery croissants, seasonal Danishes and tarts and cinnamon morning buns all complement the shop’s top-tier coffee program. Much of the grain used at 1900 Barker is grown locally and milled in house, including a variety of organic wheat called Turkey Red sourced from a farm about 2 miles from the bakery. The Petrehn brothers believe that local grain gives their naturally leavened breads a sense of place; this past February, that sense of place was recognized by none other than the James Beard Foundation, with Petrehn being the first-ever Lawrence-based James Beard Award nominee. To get a taste of his talents, try 1900 Barker's Utility Loaf, made with a minimum of 15 percent Turkey Red wheat flour. Although bread has become Petrehn's focus, he still makes time for his initial inspiration. On Wednesdays from 11:30am until the bakery is sold out, pizzas are made using 1900

Barker's sourdough base for the crust. The bakery isn't equipped with a wood-fired oven like the one Petrehn built in his parents’ backyard, but a steam-tube deck oven (bread bakes between 400ºF to 500ºF, while Neapolitan pizza is baked at around 800ºF for 90 seconds in a wood-fired oven). “If we tweak the burner to get the oven as hot as possible, we can get it to 550ºF or close to 600ºF,” he says. “That makes our pizzas take 15 minutes to bake rather than 90 seconds, so we have to make our crust so that it won’t dry out too fast in that time. That’s where our dough differs from traditional Neapolitan dough – it has a lot more water in it. But we still get really beautiful blisters on the crust.” The pizza toppings used at the bakery are seasonal and unique; past pizzas have included a roasted carrot, leek and baby mustard-green pie with cheese and whole-grain mustard cream; a tomatillo and poblano pizza with sweet-corn cream; and one with three cheeses and fermented-chile honey. “We look for ways to flex our creativity and challenge ourselves, and working with seasonal produce is one of them,” Petrehn says. Just like 1900 Barker's bread, the pizzas have been a huge hit with customers. "The same customers come back almost every week and say, 'Wow, this is the best pizza we’ve ever had,' week after week," Petrehn says. "I don’t know if it’s because each week is really better than the next, or if they’re just really excited to have it." In years past, Petrehn has hosted dinners at his parents’ home, firing up the oven and preparing pizza for eager guests. He recently bought a home of his own in Lawrence with his new wife, Kailey, and he hopes to eventually build a wood-fired oven in their backyard. For now, you can find his not-so-traditional pies at 1900 Barker, or try your hand at making his pizza recipes at home.

“We really look for a f lavor explosion in our pizza. Ultimately, we’re looking to create a f lavor that will leave you with an experience you won’t forget.”-Taylor Petrehn Turn The page for recipes! Inspired Local Food Culture

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Grilled Pizza Dough GrillinG Pizza

at Home

Most home cooks aren’t ambitious enough to build their own wood-fired oven at home, and that’s oK. The closest you can get in terms of heat is making pizzas on a heat-proof stone over a charcoal or gas grill. petrehn says the trick to grilling pizzas at home is replicating the way heat moves in a wood-fired oven. “in a wood-fired oven, you roll the pizza directly onto the stone inside the oven, and there’s a flame that climbs along the ceiling, so it cooks it super hot on top and super hot from the stone on bottom,” he says. “The problem with a grill is that all of your heat comes from the bottom – from the charcoal underneath your stone. it’s easy to get tons of heat on the bottom, but not a ton of heat on the top, which you need to get that really nice blistery look on the crust. You have to have a thick pizza stone that’s able to withstand the heat coming up from the bottom, and then leave room on the sides of your grill to let the heat climb up around the pizza to get to the top. The dome of your grill's lid – avid pizza grillers often use a Weber kettle with a curved, round dome lid – allows the heat to climb over the top of the pizza.”

. 44 Turn to p gadget r e for a clev erts your that conv grill into charcoal ven! a pizza o

Pizza GrillinG TiPs ●

buy a pizza stone to fit your charcoal grill. if using a gas grill, still use a pizza stone.

●

don’t give up: Mastering pizza on a grill can take many attempts.

●

Make a pile of charcoal on the side of your charcoal grill above the grate that you can put your wood chips on. this will help to bring a lot of heat up to the top area above your pizza and aid in cooking the top.

●

if you don’t have a pizza peel, a cookie sheet can easily transfer pizzas on and off of your grill.

tips and recipes by taylor petrehn

Before you get started, buy a kitchen scale if you don’t already own one. They’re $20 on Amazon and will change your pizzamaking game. I have included measurements in both grams and cups and teaspoons here, as I encourage you to use the former with a kitchen scale. Please note that the dough recipe calls for instant yeast and not active dry yeast. Instant yeast can be mixed directly into dry ingredients, while active dry yeast must first be dissolved in water. This recipe is specifically designed for charcoal grills, and you’ll need a couple of handfuls of thin wood chips when grilling the pizzas. If you’re making pizzas on a gas grill, don’t use the wood chips. Pizzas made on a gas grill will require a longer cook time – likely 10 to 15 minutes. If using a gas grill, turn heat down on the burner directly underneath the pizza stone and turn heat for your side burners all the way up. This will help keep the stone from becoming too hot and only cooking the bottom of the pizza. yields | 4 personal pizzas |

2¾ 2 5 1 3¾

tsp salt (17 grams) cups 80ºF water (485 grams) cups all-purpose flour (620 grams) tsp instant yeast (2½ grams) tsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more for oiling container (17 grams)

| preparation | in a large bowl, combine salt and water and stir until dissolved. add flour and yeast and incorporate using a wooden spoon or your hands. Mix until water has fully saturated flour and no dry clumps remain. dough should be sticky and resemble cottage cheese. allow dough to rest covered at room temperature for 15 minutes. add olive oil to dough and begin to knead by hand, picking up each corner of dough and folding it into the center as you go. Knead by hand until all oil is combined. dough should now resemble a more homogeneous mass; let rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. next, fold each corner of dough into the center, picking up each end and stretching it before folding it into the center. cover dough and let rest for 2 hours at room temperature. place dough onto a work surface and divide into four equal pieces, each weighing around 10 ounces on your kitchen scale. shape each piece into a small ball, tucking edges under so the top side develops a smooth surface and seams are gathered on bottom. place dough balls, seam-side down, into an oiled plastic container large enough for dough to expand by three sizes. cover and refrigerate for 24 hours. remove dough from refrigerator 1 hour prior to grilling pizzas. preheat a charcoal grill to high heat about 30 minutes prior to grilling pizzas. place pizza stone on top of grill grates to reach high heat. place a small container of thin wood chips near grill to throw onto charcoal and produce a flame right after transferring pizza to stone. carefully remove dough from oiled container and place onto a floured work surface. Gently use your fingers to press into the center of dough, and in a circular motion, slowly moving outward to create pizza crust. dough should stretch to about a 12- to 14-inch circle and be very thin in the center with a slightly larger rim, which is your crust. place toppings on pizzas as desired (see flavor combination recommendations on p. 97). once you’re ready to grill pizzas, spread charcoal to the center of your grill to allow as much heat as possible to rise up and over the top of the pizza stone and disperse a little heat from underneath the stone. With your grill at high heat and all your vents open, quickly and carefully transfer 1 pizza crust onto heated pizza stone on grill using a peel. toss a handful of wood chips onto the red-hot coals. Quickly place lid on top of grill once wood chips flame. pizza should bake in about 90 seconds to 3 minutes, so keep a close eye on it. remove pizza from stone using peel and let cool slightly before serving. repeat with remaining prepared pizza dough on heated pizza stone.

Margherita Pizza Margherita is one of the two best-known types of Neapolitan pizza; the other is Pizza Marinara. Authentic Margherita pizza is made only with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella di bufala (mozzarella made with Italian water buffalo milk), fresh basil, salt and extra virgin olive oil.

Roasted Carrot Venture outside tomato-based pizza sauces with this whole-grain mustard cream number.

for topping recipes turn to p. 97. Inspired Local Food Culture

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YoUr TigEr gamE DaY HEaDQUarTErS!

• Quick Tailgate Pick-Ups • Full Service Tailgate Events

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Fun Food, Happy People, Great Drinks! Gift Certificates Make Great Gifts! Join us for Brunch! Saturdays 10-1 106 N. Main St. • Edwardsville 618.307.4830 • clevelandheath.com Mon-Fri 11:00-close, Sat 10:00-close Offering Saturday brunch • First Come - First Serve (No reservations) We Do Not Take Reservations

& ICE CREAM TACOS ARE BREAKING

THE RULES! 2738 CHEROKEE STREET ST. LOUIS, MO 63118 94

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Yukon Gold Potato and Sweet-Corn Cream A pizza topped with potatoes may sound like a dream come true, but in Italy, pizza con patate is common. Potato pizzas are often made with rosemary, garlic, oil, salt and pepper, but this riff on the classic employs Yukon gold potatoes and leeks with a sweet-corn cream drizzled on top.

Filetti Filetti is a traditional style of Neapolitan pizza made with fresh cherry tomatoes and no sauce.

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Nice Slice

Visitors to Jackson Street BrewCo’s tasting room in Perryville, Missouri, come often to try the new seasonal and rotating beers on tap, and that philosophy is carried through to the unique and seasonal wood-fired pizzas offered. Last month, about half of the pizzas were swapped out for new pies that utilize in-season and fresh ingredients. Alongside favorites such as Margherita and Ulti-Meat-Um, new additions include the Egg & Porchetta Pie and the Barbacoa Pie – a take on a street taco according to owner, head chef and head brewer Matt Ruesler – with chipotle red sauce, barbacoa beef, onions, cilantro, queso fresco and avocado cream. “We like to put a twist on mainstream things like tacos,” he says. “The Barbacoa would go great with the caramel and chocolate notes in our Altbier.” If you have a hankering for something other than pizza, you can always head to Mary Jane Burgers & Brew a couple doors down.

Back from

www.TheRackHouseKWW.com Events@TheRackHouseKWW.com

Take a virtual tour

Egg-Free • Wheat-Free • Dairy-Free Visitwww.ireneshomemadegranola.comfor alistoflocalstoresthatcarrythishealthytreat.

ST LOUIS’ ULTIMATE SPORTS BAR Exceptional Food, Craft Beer & Spirits

the Dead

If you want to be the first to try Jackson Street BrewCo’s new fall seasonal ale, you’ll need to mask up: Dia de Muertos on Fri., Oct. 27 is a masquerade party complete with a costume contest, food and the release of Muertos Ale, a Maibock-style beer with notes of caramel, toffee and plum. Stop by the tasting room this month to try other new tappings such as a Weizenbock, an imperial porter, a dry-hopped brown ale and a poblano pale ale. Stay tuned for the release of the “anti-pumpkin” Squashed Porter winter seasonal in November, made with oven-roasted acorn squash that’s used in the mash and boil process to flavor the beer. Jackson Street BrewCo | 106 N. Jackson St. Perryville, Missouri | jstreetbrewco.com 96

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Who Said a Sports Bar Can’t Have Amazing Food?

Grilled Shrimp & Crawfish Po’ Boy

B30+ Big HDTVs B3 Great Bars B Free Shuttle to all Home Games B Brunch Every Saturday & Sunday

2001 Menard (Corner of Menard & Allen) In the Heart of Soulard Facebook: fb.me/dukesinsoulard

Duke’s Crab Cakes Benedict

Margherita 1 cup San Marzano tomatoes, lightly puréed in a food processor and seasoned with salt 2 4-oz pieces buffalo mozzarella, torn into pieces 6 to 8 fresh basil leaves extra virgin olive oil

| preparation | Top prepared pizza dough with puréed tomatoes, mozzarella and fresh basil and grill 90 seconds to 3 minutes on a charcoal grill or 10 to 15 minutes on a gas grill. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

Roasted Carrot whole-Grain muStard Cream 1 cup heavy cream 2 Tbsp whole-grain mustard salt, to taste Pizza 2 carrots, thinly sliced 1 red onion, thinly sliced extra virgin olive oil salt whole-grain mustard cream (recipe below) ¼ lb baby mustard greens ½ cup freshly grated Fontina cheese ½ cup freshly grated white Cheddar cheese

| preparation – whole-grain mustard cream | In a saucepan over medium heat, add cream and mustard and reduce by half, about 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt to taste and let cool to room temperature.

Yukon Gold Potato and Sweet-Corn Cream Sweet-Corn Cream 1 cup heavy whipping cream 1 ear fresh sweet corn, kernels removed from cob salt Pizza 4 Yukon gold potatoes, thinly sliced 1 leek, thinly sliced extra virgin olive oil salt 1 cup grated Fontina cheese 1 Tbsp red chile flakes sweet-corn cream (recipe below)

| preparation – sweet-corn cream | In a saucepan over medium heat, add cream and corn and reduce by half, about 10 to 15 minutes or until cream is reduced by half. Purée mixture in a blender and strain through a fine-mesh strainer. Season with salt to taste and let cool to room temperature.

| preparation – pizza | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, toss potatoes and leeks with a little olive oil and salt to coat and then spread out evenly on a baking sheet. Roast in oven for 10 to 15 minutes or until cooked through. Allow to slightly cool before topping pizza. Top prepared dough with roasted potatoes and leeks, cheese, chile flakes and a drizzle of sweet-corn cream. Grill 90 seconds to 3 minutes on a charcoal grill or 10 to 15 minutes on a gas grill. Serve.

| preparation – pizza | Preheat oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, toss carrots and onion with a little olive oil and salt to coat and then spread out evenly on a baking sheet. Roast in oven for 10 to 15 minutes or until cooked through. Allow to slightly cool before topping pizza. Spread a thin layer of mustard cream over prepared pizza dough. Top with roasted carrots and onions, mustard greens and cheeses and grill 90 seconds to 3 minutes on a charcoal grill, or 10 to 15 minutes on a gas grill. Serve.

Filetti 1 6 to 8 1 2

pint cherry tomatoes, halved fresh basil leaves clove fresh garlic, thinly sliced 4-oz pieces buffalo mozzarella, torn into small pieces ¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan extra virgin olive oil

| preparation | Top prepared pizza dough with tomatoes, basil, garlic and cheeses and grill 90 seconds to 3 minutes on a charcoal grill, or 10 to 15 minutes on a gas grill. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

Tomato and Cheese with Fermented-Chile Honey The honey takes several weeks to ferment at home; if you'd rather not wait, look for a spicy honey at specialty grocery stores. tomato SauCe 2 cups San Marzano tomatoes 2 cloves garlic 1 Tbsp fresh oregano salt, to taste Fermented Chile-honey 1 cup fresh Calabrian chiles, finely diced 1 tsp salt 2 cups honey Pizza 1 ½ ½ ½ 2

cup tomato sauce (recipe below) cup mozzarella cheese cup freshly grated white Cheddar cheese cup freshly grated Fontina cheese sprigs fresh thyme, roughly chopped fermented chile-honey (recipe below)

| preparation – tomato sauce | In a saucepan over medium heat, add all ingredients and let simmer for 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer mixture to a food processor or blender and lightly purée until desired sauce consistency is achieved. Season with more salt to taste and let cool to room temperature.

| preparation – fermented-chile honey | In the bowl of a food processor, purée chiles and salt until mixture forms a pastelike consistency. Transfer to a canning jar, cover with cheesecloth and leave at room temperature for 3 or 4 weeks. Add honey to jar and transfer mixture to the bowl of a food processor or blender to purée into a thin and smooth consistency. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer.

| preparation – pizza | Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce over prepared pizza dough. Top with cheeses and thyme and grill 90 seconds to 3 minutes on a charcoal grill, or 10 to 15 minutes on a gas grill. Drizzle with honey and serve. Inspired Local Food Culture

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Josh Collins, beer chancellor and co-founder of Big Rip Brewing Co. in North Kansas City, Missouri, has always been passionate about starting his own business. He recalls childhood memories of stomping grapes with his family and watching his grandfather make wine with the juice. Those memories are what inspired him to start making his own wine and beer at home; Collins worked in web design until he opened Big Rip in May 2013 with his friend Kipp Feldt. The brewery specializes in a constantly rotating selection of small-batch beers. –Huong Truong

with Josh Collins beer chancellor and co-founder,

big rip brewing co.

pHoTo by peTe dulin

imagine you have one entire day to dedicate to dining out in kansas city. Where Would you grab breakfast, lunch and dinner, and What Would you be ordering at each spot?

vietnam cafe

I’m a huge breakfast nut. My wife and I love going to Chez Elle, a crêperie. They make an awesome breakfast crêpe with eggs and bacon, and I usually get a side of pesto sauce with it. Then Vietnam Cafe [near] Rainbow Boulevard for lunch; I get the tofu and veggie pho. For dinner, my wife and I are regulars at Margarita’s. She’s been going there since she was a kid. We get the pork tostada and Margarita dip [a white hot-pepper cheese].

chez elle

What’s your favorite drink, and Where in kansas city are you ordering it? I’m a beer guy, so I tend to go where the beer is. I almost never order the same thing twice because there’s so many to try. Lately I’ve been going to Tapcade in North Kansas City and I generally order what’s new. Where do you go for late-night eats or a nightcap?

tapcade

pHoToGRApHy CouRTESy INSTAGRAM uSERS

Helen’s J.A.D. Bar & Grill has a surprisingly good draft list. I think it has been around for 20 years. The pizzas and wings are awesome, and the kitchen is open until 2am six days a week.

I’m a beer guy, so I tend to go where the beer is. I almost never order the same thing twice because there’s so many to try. Lately I’ve been going to Tapcade in North Kansas city and I generally order what’s new. margarita’s

Who in the local breWing scene inspires you? I tend to get inspiration from breweries that are just starting up as homebrewers. It’s exciting because they have amazing plans to take things to the next level. They’re experimenting with things that I’ve never even heard of on a large scale. green acres market

What’s your go-to market, grocer or farmers’ market – and What are you buying there? I go to Green Acres Market at least a couple of times a week for the homemade soups. There are four types of fresh soup daily. I gravitate toward the spicy gumbo and chicken tortilla soup with a red sauce. I’m not the best chef myself, so I usually get the items the deli and produce counter makes, including its great potpie.

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helen’s j.a.d. bar & grill

The Holidays Are Coming. Be Ready. Celebrate friends and family at Katieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurants.

Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait, book your holiday event today! Catering size portions are available at both KPPO locations. Contact Liz at lizkppo@gmail.com for inquiries on catering, special events and private chef dinners.

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GAME-DAY PREP COUCH from your

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WE SHOP

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