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LU X U R Y W I T H O U T C O M P R O M I S E

Time to Shine WAT C H E S & J E W E L RY S P E C I A L

The year’s best timepieces and gems for every hour of the day—and night.

P LU S : How it feels to drive the newest electric hypercar, pilot a submersible and commission your first bespoke watch

N OV E M B E R 2 0 2 1

This is

the life

COL L ECTION

Villeret

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THE WORLD’S FINEST HIGH RESOLUTION PLAYER PIANO En joy p er for man ce s c ap tu re d by g re at p ia ni st s — p l aye d w ith su ch nu an ce , p ower a nd p a ssi on th at th e y a re utter ly i nd i st i ng u is h able f rom a live p er for man ce .

MODEL B 58" / 148 cm Length 6' 11" / 211 cm, Width

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XPLORE

W E

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U L Y S S E

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F E AT U R E S

NICOLAS BLANDIN

november 2021, volume 45, number 9

P. 150

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Watch & Learn

That ’70s Showstopper

When Rare Is Not Enough

The Men Behind the Movement

Bold Is Back

Not all ’70s fashion fads were good ones (goodbye and good riddance, platform shoes), but the era’s jewelry is worth revisiting. TV shows like Halston have sparked new demand for these yellowgold pieces of decades past.

Groovy.

Working with a watchmaker on a bespoke timepiece requires effective communication and a good relationship with the artisan.

The Armoury’s cofounder Mark Cho recounts what went into creating his unique piece, which is one of the last that Christian Klings will make.

Watch dealers have everything to do with horological trends. We caught up with the best—one has an address at the St. Regis, another charges a hefty sum for advising collectors—and asked them which watches are hot now.

Wear a Cartier Tank on a jog or don an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak for your day-to-day commute. The old wisdom on when to wear your favorite watch has finally expired.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY PETER ROSA

BY TANYA DUKES

This season, pair big, statement-making jewelry from the likes of Louis Vuitton and Messika with elegant, classic garments so the gems can really shine.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACOB + CARROL

BY PAIGE REDDINGER

BY MARK CHO

R O B B R E P O R T. C O M

19

D E PA R T M E N T S

28

CONT RI BUT ORS

30

E D I T OR’S L ET T ER

58

TH E A NSW ERS

with watch collector Auro Montanari.

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G ENI US AT WORK

Centuries ago, micromosaics were all the rage in Italy.

Now they’re a rarity relegated to antiques shops. Artisans like the self-taught Maurizio Fioravanti still practice the age-old art, though he makes fewer than 10 of these special pieces per year.

101

F I ELD NOT ES

Like fashion and jewelry, watches are becoming more and more unisex. What will endure even with this changing trend are the classics, such as Patek Philippe’s Nautilus and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.

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TH E DUEL

The Notorious B.I.G.’s Crown vs. Marie Antoinette’s Bracelets

P. 46

THE GOODS

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A new restaurant in Athens shakes up the Greek culinary scene with a 17-course meal; thanks to its goes-witheverything versatility, sake is growing in popularity in America.

Five top equestrian destinations and where to book while you’re there; North America’s first landscape hotel lets you stay among Sedona’s incredible red rocks.

Atlanta’s High Museum of Art mounts an exhibition of photographs of the South, including An-My Lê’s snapshots of anti-racism protests and Jim Goldberg’s portraits of small-town life in Arkansas.

A new CEO brings fresh perspective to Parmigiani; buying a new Panerai could have you free-diving in French Polynesia or scaling mountains in Grand Teton National Park.

FOOD & DRINK

40

TRAVEL

ART

WATCHES

STYLE

JEWELRY

We’re not going to advocate for ’80s fashion on all accounts—some things, like Hammer pants, are better left to lie—but the decade’s relaxed silhouettes are perfect for our current moment.

P. 00

P. 54

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NOVEMBER 2021

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The shows to check out this fall, from an art-and-design selling exhibition that now includes fine jewelry to a presentation on Cartier’s connection with India and the Islamic world.

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CHOPARD BOUTIQUES NEW YORK 709 Madison Avenue – MIAMI Bal Harbour Shops – COSTA MESA South Coast Plaza 1-800-CHOPARD www.chopard.com

D E PA R T M E N T S

DOMAIN

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OBJECTIFIED Some of the most beautiful furniture is made of marble and other choice stones, and since these raw, natural materials all have different shapes and textures, no two tables will be the same.

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NEWS An apartment in the building that inspired Hulu’s Only Murders in the Building hosts an exhibit where you can buy all the collectible furniture (and the apartment); after a tumultuous year, renowned architect Peter Marino reflects on the present state of brick-and-mortar retail.

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THE ROOM A Miami residence makes a statement from the first moment you step through the front door with a jaw-dropping bronze light sculpture in the foyer.

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HIGH SOCIETY

LU X U R Y W I T H O U T C O M P R O M I S E

DREAM MACHINES

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The old ways make their case with Bentley’s new 12-cylinder ride, Pininfarina’s sleek Battista packs a powerful electric punch and inside Ferrari’s ultra-exclusive Cavalcade road rally.

Diving via submarine gets you up close and personal with the deep sea’s inhabitants, and an action-packed new racing series has sailors competing for a $1 million purse.

The long-awaited G700 promises to overtop the very best in business aviation; private-jet demand is outpacing supply, which means delays, downgrades and other consumer woes.

A lot goes into a great sound system, like topnotch speakers, a powerful amp and a dependable source. Here, how to put together yours for under six figures.

WHEELS Time to Shine WAT C H E S & J E W E L RY S P E C I A L

The year’s best timepieces and gems for every hour of the day—and night.

P LU S : How it feels to drive the newest electric hypercar, pilot a submersible and commission your first bespoke watch

N OV E M B E R 2 0 2 1

Nov_Cover.indd 3

10/4/21 3:59 PM

C OV ER I L LUSTR ATI O N BY MATHILDE CRETIER

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NOVEMBER 2021

P. 82

WATER

WINGS

TECH

JAMES LIPMAN

A penthouse in London that Hugh Grant once called home hits the market for $12.3 million; its biggest perk is its two terraces’ worth of outdoor space.

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Contributors

Jacob + Carrol Jacob Sadrak is a Mexico City–born, New York– based photographer; Carrol Cruz spent her teenage years living in Bogota, Colombia. The duo met in 2012 and shortly thereafter decided to collaborate and combine their artistic sensibilities. For this issue, they photographed the season’s remarkable jewelry in “Bold Is Back” (p. 164). “We wanted to show the models in a natural state but empowered by their femininity,” they say. In addition to Robb Report, Jacob + Carrol’s work has appeared in Harper’s Bazaar Brazil, GQ Mexico and WWD.

28

Mark Cho

Rebecca Suhrawardi

Martino Lombezzi

Paige Reddinger

Cho is cofounder of retailer the Armoury and co-owner of Drake’s, an English menswear brand. In addition to his passion for the sartorial, he’s an avid watch collector. Among his cache is a bespoke piece made

by Christian Klings, likely one of the last that the German designer will ever create, which Cho wrote about in “When Rare Is Not Enough” (p. 150).

“After the watch was finished, Christian and I had some very long chats over the phone,” he says. “He talked at length about his life, and I came to realize his work was not just a product of a man but also an era of history.”

Suhrawardi has covered fashion, the arts and luxury for publications such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle; she’s spent the past five years working as a columnist for Forbes. Suhrawardi grew up in an equestrian town in New Jersey, so her story on equine destinations, “Let It Ride” on p. 46, came naturally. “I travel loads, and I always know where the nearest horse-riding facility is to train,” she says. “I’m currently in London, where I just finished a few days of arena training at Hyde Park Stables while on holiday.”

Lombezzi resides in Bologna, Italy, where he photographed renowned watch collector Auro Montanari in his home for The Answers Q&A (p. 58). “I spent quite some time in this magic, 20th-century-styled palace feeling like I was traveling back in time,” he says of the experience. In addition to portrait assignments for Robb Report and other magazines, Lombezzi has also worked on documentary projects that focus on contemporary society and its landscapes, as well as issues of memory and identity.

As Robb Report’s watch and jewelry editor, Reddinger was involved in nearly every facet of the November issue, from curating photo shoots (“Watch & Learn,” p. 134 and “Bold Is Back,” p. 164) to interviewing some of the biggest names in horology about the timepieces to know (“The Men Behind the Movement,” p. 156). “The word on nearly every vintage dealer’s mouth I spoke with for this issue is ‘neo-vintage,’ meaning watches from roughly the ’80s to early 2000s,” she says. “Deals can still be had, but expect a new wave of price hikes for models from this era soon.”

NOVEMBER 2021

Editor’s Letter

Collecting is an integral part of Robb Report’s DNA— and that of its readers. I’m often struck by your knowledge of, and admiration for, the craft inherent in the remarkable objects that so beguile you.

30

NOVEMBER 2021

Paul Croughton Editor in Chief @paulcroughton

black-tie rig, but it looks as good worn with sportswear on the way to the gym. Likewise the skeletonized rose-gold Breguet with guilloche dial might seem a natural to pair with a suit, but we prove it works just as elegantly juxtaposed with a punchy cashmere knit in your downtime.

Continuing the collecting theme, Tanya Dukes clues us in to the rising popularity of ’70s jewelry on page 146. The decade spawned some truly fantastic pieces, and there are plenty of statement items to be sourced—if you know where to look and whom to speak to. Meanwhile we showcase stand-out jewelry of a contemporary stripe in our striking shoot on page 164, plus don’t miss the extraordinary micromosaics of Maurizio Fioravanti in Genius at Work (p. 76). And there are cars, jets, submersibles, sakes, hotels and, if you can find it, one famous plastic crown that should amuse you, too.

Enjoy the issue.

JOSHUA SCOT T

That might explain why, for many of you, there’s quite often a grail (or two) you’re in the process of hunting down at any particular time. So for our annual watch and jewelry issue, it seemed only fitting to feature one of the most respected collectors in the world—and since collectors are nothing without dealers, we included some of the best in that field, too.

If you have a passion for watches, the only reason the name Auro Montanari might be unfamiliar to you is because you know him better as his alias, John Goldberger. He was the owner of “The Unicorn” Rolex, Ref. 6265, that sold for $5.9 million three years ago and is a prodigious collector of not just exceptional watches but also books, china and photography.

He’s the subject of The Answers and shares some of his back story, as well as what’s currently distracting him, on page 58.

In our portfolio of several of the watch world’s most influential dealers (p. 156), we meet the men who, among them, could soothe whatever horological ache you might be nursing. If Rolex is your poison, Eric Ku or Tariq Malik can be called upon to ease your fever. Prefer to patronize one of the independents or crave something unusual from a lesser-known brand? Silas Walton, Sean Song and Eric Wind are the guys to consult. All posed for Robb Report wherever they happened to be in the world but are united by an ability to understand what watch nerds like us want and need . . . because they’re watch nerds, too, of course.

Bespoke watchmaking is an art, and I’m excited to publish entrepreneur and collector Mark Cho’s account of his first foray into commissioning a timepiece (p. 150). No stranger to the finest artisans around the globe—Cho is the cofounder of men’s clothier the Armoury as well as co-owner of Drake’s haberdashery—he embarked upon his adventure after encountering a stunning Christian Klings timepiece in an auction preview back in 2018. Klings is a one-man b(r)and, making everything by himself by hand, so the process was a long one: Cho took possession of his exceptional one-of-one just two weeks before this issue went to press.

Time was when you’d wear a dress watch with a suit and perhaps a sports watch on a bracelet at the weekend. That way of thinking seems as antique to me now as a yellow-gold 1950s Calatrava (though nowhere near as cool), but recently a friend said he’d only ever think of pairing his Cartier Tank with a tuxedo. Seriously?

I shall be directing him to our watch shoot in this issue, which illustrates how different timepieces can fit into the Robb reader’s average week (p. 134). The new Tank Louis Cartier with its Art Deco styling would be a fine match for the full

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RELAUNCH of an ICON Meet The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore

T

he Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore, or “The Beast” as it is fondly known to collectors because of its outsized proportions, has been slightly tamed this

year, with a smaller, more refined 43 mm size (the previous version was 44 mm), an abbreviated AP logo, repositioned subdials for better legibility and a new interchangeable strap system.

Since its introduction in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore collection has defied established conventions, offering a sportier and more muscular take on the Royal Oak and its aesthetic codes. In the 1990s, it set the trend in large-sized watches that were geared to the extreme sports and lifestyles of the era. Since then, the Royal Oak Offshore collection has housed some of Audemars Piguet’s boldest designs, incorporating new materials, sizes and colors, and establishing an aesthetic that represented the brand’s free-spirited attitude.

The five new 43 mm models retain the collection’s

gold that incorporates a flying tourbillon with a

signature bold design and fearless application of

flyback chronograph.

color, but incorporate a few surprising tweaks, including larger polished chamfers on the case and bezel, and a redesign of the signature Méga Tapisserie dial. The pyramids composing the tapisserie pattern have been sharpened and connected to one another with a raised crisscross pattern, and the squares topping off the pyramids have been finished with satin-brushing to match the case’s bold yet refined aesthetic.

Audemars Piguet has also launched three new versions of its iconic 42 mm Royal Oak Offshore Diver, in a choice of khaki, blue or gray Méga Tapisserie dials. Like the new 43 mm models, they feature the brand’s new quick-change strap system, allowing the straps to be swapped out easily for endless options. And there is also a new movement, the automatic caliber 4308, with a seconds hand and an instant-jump date indicator.

The diving scale on the dial’s inner rotating ring

Since its introduction in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore collection has defied established conventions.”

It contains the automatic caliber 4401, a new, integrated chronograph movement with a 70-hour power reserve that spent eight years in development. A vertical clutch and a patented resetting mechanism ensure each counter seamlessly tracks back to zero. The new references include two in stainless steel with a black ceramic bezel, one with a black dial and the

is activated via a unidirectional click mechanism linked to the crown at 10 o’clock. The hands and the new, faceted hour markers are luminated for perfect legibility under water.

The new Divers watches come with rubber straps that are color-coordinated to match the gray, blue or khaki dials, but they can be easily swapped out for new calfskin leather options. Like the new 43 mm models, they feature the new abbreviated applied gold AP logo, which replaces the traditional long-form signature.

These new Royal Oak Offshore models boldly reestablish the collection’s trailblazing identity,

other with a smoked taupe dial; one in 18-karat

launching a new era of innovation for the iconic

pink gold with a black ceramic bezel; and two in

sports watch.

titanium, with either blue or gray dials. There is also a 100-piece limited-edition in 18-karat white

Learn more at audemarspiguet.com

The new references include two in stainless steel with a black ceramic bezel, one with a black dial and the other with a smoked taupe dial; one in 18-karat pink gold with a black ceramic bezel; and two in titanium, with either blue or gray dials.

THE GOODS

JÉRÔME G ALLAND

THIS MONTH’S WHO, WHAT AND WEAR

Gastronomy's Greek Drama

GUT TER CREDITS

The newly opened Delta is one of the hottest tables in Europe, serving extraordinary culinary theater in 17 acts.

Delta’s circular bar is accompanied by functional sculpture from design firm Voukenas Petrides.

R O B B R E P O R T. C O M

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The Goods | F O O D & D R I N K

F

abulous food has long been central to Greece’s allure, from soulful old-world cuisine to exceptional fine-dining destinations. But Delta, in the ancient capital city of Athens, is a rarefied culinary experience far beyond clever riffs on Grandma’s moussaka. Located in a two-story, glass-walled space high atop the Renzo Piano–designed Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center (SNFCC), Delta claims the title as the city’s first progressive gastronomic destination. A 23-foot, hand-hammered copper bar anchors the sleekly appointed restaurant, which offers a single nightly seating for just 12 tables. The first dish, a silken calamari steamed with plum-stone oil and lacquered in caramelized butter, sets the stage for the remainder of the evening’s incredible 17-course pageant of Greek ingredients prepared with Michelin-quality flair.

There is only one seating per evening for the restaurant’s 12 tables.

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“We want to shake things up in Greek dining and present native ingredients in a refined, totally unique way, bringing in many of the techniques we learned in the Nordic countries,” says George Papazacharias, who, alongside Thanos Feskos, shares the title of head chef at Delta. The native Greeks and longtime friends returned home after more than a decade working in a range of Michelin three-star restaurants in Norway and Copenhagen, respectively.

While many of the ingredients are quintessentially Greek, the use of Scandinavian preservation techniques is not. “These methods aren’t really done in Greece at all, but we consider them essential to sharpen and enhance flavors,” Papazacharias says. The nuance of that approach shines through in dishes such as a smooth clam served in tomato water

JÉRÔME G ALLAND

Delta is a rarefied experience far beyond clever riffs on Grandma’s moussaka.

The Goods | F O O D & D R I N K

perfumed with preserved bergamot, and a captivating chilled beeswax preparation with caramelized goat’s whey and fermented honey. The kitchen also adheres to zero-waste principles; items such as vegetable scraps find new life as a fermented seasoning for the decadent homemade bread.

The ingredients, sourced from small farms throughout Greece, are as impressive as any of the high-flown techniques. A rose sauce used to lace spring lamb is distilled from petals sourced from a specialty farm in the mountainous Peloponnese region. Traditional peppers hail from Thessaloniki, seafood from local fishermen and much of the rest from the restaurant’s own three-acre farm outside Athens.

Greek artistry is woven throughout the entire experience: Plates and bowls are the

Shrimp cured in citrus with fermented clementine

Sake It To Me

Katie Kelly Bell

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pairs his famous Oysters and Pearls dish with Sohomare’s elegant, full-bodied Tuxedo Kimoto Junmai Daiginjo ultrapremium sake. At Michelinstar Cranes, in Washington, D.C., chef Pepe Moncayo’s mix of Spanish and Japanese influences—think an omakase menu alongside gazpacho and jamón ibérico—is a perfect match for Dewazakura’s clean and floral Oka Cherry Bouquet ginjo, made with polished rice.

And guests at the ultra-luxe

decade, according to Amy Racine, beverage director of JF Restaurants (run by Michelin-star chef John Fraser) who says there are remarkable brands to be found across the country. “Brooklyn Kura does some good work,” she says, adding that she was “blown away” by domestic producers SakéOne, in Oregon, Texas Saké Company and California’s Takara. Try SakéOne’s Genshu-style sake or Takara’s Sho Chiku Bai Sho Junmai

More than two dozen sake breweries have launched in the US in the past decade.

Ten Thousand Waves resort in Santa Fe will discover over 20 sake options, including the sought-after Tenko 20 Junmai Daiginjo Heavenly Grace, a silky, juicy bucket-list bottle procured by in-house master sake sommelier Deborah Fleig.

There are homegrown versions, too: More than two dozen sake breweries have launched in the US in the past

ginjo—and feel free to mix it up beyond Japanese fare. The fruit-forward aromas of the former work surprisingly well with pizza, while the latter, reminiscent of a Pinot Gris, is a natural complement to spicy Mexican food. That’s the wonderful thing about the wide and varied world of sake: There’s a choice for nearly every occasion. Paul Feinstein

DELTA: JÉRÔME G ALLAND; SAKE: ADOBE STOCK

handiwork of Greek artisans, staff uniforms were styled by a Greek designer and the wine list is dense with expressions of native Greek varietals (try the fragrant, single-plot Thymiopoulos 2017 Naoussa Vrana Petra, a world-class expression of the Xinomavro grape, a popular red).

The chefs are already looking to next year, when they anticipate being able to source the entire menu from local farms and foraging, using nothing imported. “We want to become a landmark culinary destination and introduce the world to a new side of Greek cuisine,” Feskos says.

It’s a bold ambition that feels entirely fitting—the Greeks, after all, know something about making a lasting impact.

In terms of its ingredients, sake is simple, made from just four elements: rice, water, yeast and fermentation-spurring mold called koji-kin. And yet as a category, it’s disconcertingly complex, served both hot and cold, filtered and unfiltered, dry and sweet. It’s been a staple of Japanese cuisine for centuries, but more recently sake has enjoyed an increasing prominence on the American fine-dining scene, with enthusiastic appreciation from Michelin-star chefs, buzzy restaurants and independent brewers alike.

“Sushi has obviously seeped into the mainstream of the American diet, and with that comes a growing interest in other things Japanese,” says Weston Konishi, president of the Sake Brewers Association of North America. “Sake is riding on the coattails of that.”

And as with sushi, celebrity chefs are helping pave the way for wider understanding.

This year, Alain Ducasse produced a sparkling sake with renowned Japanese brewer Shichiken, while the French Laundry’s Thomas Keller

T I M E TO R E AC H YO U R S TA R

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STYLE

Back to the Future Set your time circuits to the 1980s: The period’s loose, easygoing style is a blueprint for how to dress now.

F

ashion’s nostalgia cycle has a habit of dredging up looks that are better left in the past.

The roulette wheel has now landed squarely on the ’80s, causing trepidation for those who only remember the decade’s garish sartorial excesses, but, viewed with hindsight, the era’s louche, exceptionally soft tailoring works perfectly in the current moment.

That means less Members Only jackets, more Richard Gere as Julian Kay, the suave gadabout in American Gigolo who slept his way through Los Angeles clad in a wardrobe of languidly draped jackets, breezy linen shirts and generously cut pleated trousers, all by Giorgio Armani; the film catapulted the designer to fame and set menswear on a more rakish course.

“He loosened up tailoring, got rid of this very high armhole, the stiffness of English tailoring, and substituted it with this new vocabulary of soft, fluid tailoring that’s comfortable,” says author Simon Doonan, who, while working at LA’s Maxfield when the Gigolo look took off, sold Armani to the likes of Jack Nicholson and Harry Dean Stanton.

Of the current Armani renaissance, Doonan says, “He’s always waiting in the wings to signify subtlety and restraint and simplicity.” Essentially, an antidote to the more-is-more bravado that’s dominated men’s fashion in recent years. Culturally, we may be worlds away from the unabashed material excesses of the ’80s, but in terms of style the era’s silhouette is ideally suited to work-from-anywhere dress codes:

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Déjà vu never looked so good: Fear of God high-twist wool jacket, $1,950, trousers, $850, and terrycloth T-shirt, $395.

S T Y L E | The Goods

free from fuss or stuffiness, with the unconstricting comfort of sweats but still managing to look polished.

Last spring, Mr Porter tapped Armani to reprise some of his ’80s greatest hits: unconstructed suits, swaggering coats and silky shirts in 50 shades of greige. And judging by the slouchy silhouettes and dusty color palette seen in the fall collections from Ermenegildo Zegna, Brioni, Berluti and many others, it appears that Armani’s breed of ease featured on more than a few mood boards.

“There was an elegance, an effortlessness and a comfortability from that era that we’re naturally drawn to,” says Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo, who cites Miami Vice and Johnny Depp circa 21 Jump Street as references for his fall lineup of roomy jackets and wide-legged trousers casually combined with sportswear and well-worn denim.

Lorenzo’s collection includes several riffs on one of the decade’s more anachronistic designs, the fourbutton double-breasted blazer, but

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Richard Gere in

American Gigolo; Jake Gyllenhaal, channeling Miami Vice 2.0 in Valentino; Brioni’s wool and alpaca coat, $7,300, wool jacket, $6,100, and trousers, $900.

styled more like outerwear than a piece of formal suiting. Similarly relaxed DBs have turned up at the likes of Drake’s and Kiton, proving that the style’s lower gorge and substantial lapels feel inherently laid-back, even when paired with a dress shirt.

Others, like Zegna, largely ditched suit jackets altogether, opting for blousons or that other ’80s favorite, bombers, teamed with full-cut trousers in matching fabrics.

Worn with monochromatic shirts sans tie, these non-suits deftly toe the line between on duty and off—and, when broken out as individual garments, offer even more versatility. That may be why this season’s homage to the ’80s feels less like costume and more like a considered reassessment of the era’s sartorial contributions.

“Fashion has its waves,” Lorenzo says, “but a loose-fitting, comfortable and sophisticated proposition is always welcomed.” Kareem Rashed

“I feel like I’ve been auditioning my whole career for this,” says Michael Bastian of his new job as creative director for Brooks Brothers, the 203-year-old stalwart of American preppy style. Indeed, with his eponymous label, launched in 2006, Bastian often seemed to be riffing on a sleeker, sexier, more adventurous version of the Brooks Brothers world. No surprise, then, that his first order of business was to rework the mothership’s most iconic and beloved piece, the oxford-cloth buttondown shirt.

With its just-under $90 price tag, you can spend more on socks from some labels, but the appeal of the brand’s OCBD, as the style is known

in menswear circles, is authenticity, since Brooks Brothers invented the category.

That’s a lot of history to draw from, but Bastian’s version is a casual revolution of precise details: heavier fabric, a shorter, roomy fit with a wider sleeve and a collar roll that’s somehow more elegant despite the shape remaining unchanged. (The secret, Bastian confides, is actually collar-button placement: “If you don’t get it exactly right, you won’t get that perfect curve, like a violin.”) The chest pocket is back and the cuff shirring stays while the various fits and dress-shirt sizing are gone—a single model now comes in S, M, L, etc.—though there’s good news for obsessives who want the updated look, but cut just for them: “Custom shirting,” Bastian says,“is coming soon.”

Josh Condon

GYLLENHA AL: ROCCO SPA ZIANI/PICTURE-ALLIANCE /DPA /AP IMAGES; AMERICAN GIGOLO : CHRISTOPHEL /PARAMOUNT PICTURES/ALAMY

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T R AV E L

Let It Ride For a truly blue-ribbon holiday, saddle up for an equestrian getaway that includes worldclass accommodations.

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M

aybe you dream of experiencing the John Wayne lifestyle or adding an extra goal to your polo creds.

Whatever your motivation to mount up, horseplay takes on new meaning at these five equestrian destinations, where your favorite creature comforts are along for the ride. Rebecca Suhrawardi

ENGLAND

Berkshire, home to Windsor Castle, is synonymous with English equestrian life: It’s where both Royal Ascot and the Cartier Queen’s Cup Polo championship are held, two events that Her Majesty attends almost without fail. The latter takes place at the Guards Polo Club, the premier club to chase a ball about with a mallet; see club director Ebe Sievwright,

who’s also one of the game’s best-known commentators, about booking a private lesson (beginner-level coaching can be had for around $270). After training at the Guards, check into Cliveden House, a stately home built in 1666 by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham. Set on 376 acres of National Trust land, it offers on-site tennis, nearby golf and a spa with hammam and infrared sauna.

NEW MEXICO

Auberge Resorts’ latest hotel, Bishop’s Lodge, is a short walk from downtown Santa Fe. The 317-acre property abuts the Santa Fe National Forest and includes private stables with more than a dozen horses for guests to enjoy the abundance of land that can be explored by horseback.

Book a guided predawn ride to witness

T R AV E L | The Goods

the sunrise atop a scenic ridge, a cup of Navajo tea in hand. After a long day in the saddle, you can choose from the hotel's offerings of rooms, suites, multibedroom casitas or, for family getaways, the 12-room bunkhouse with space for up to 24 adults.

Unwind in the wellness spa with a facial, massage or a crystal-bowl sound-therapy session.

ARGENTINA

The Argentines rule the sport of polo, among them top pro Marcos Di Paola, president of the Argentine Polo Players Association and a team leader for the UK’s King Power, the sponsor behind one of the top polo competitions in the world, the King Power Gold Cup. Along with his brother, Lucas, the pair owns and operates the world-renowned Magual Polo Club, just 45 minutes outside Buenos Aires. Following a day of competition at the club, enjoy the city’s vibrant nightlife, including a stay at Alvear Palace Hotel, the Argentine equivalent of the Ritz, which offers butler service for suites and Hermès products in every room.

WYOMING

A 20-minute drive from Jackson Hole Airport, you’ll find the Aman’s American outback outpost, the Amangani. Designed to envelop guests in the surrounding

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: A suite at

CALIFORNIA

Known for its Basque-style estates and reputation as a retreat for the Hollywood elite, Santa Barbara is often called the American Riviera. Thanks in large part to the Santa Barbara Polo and Racquet Club, it’s also one of the Golden State’s equestrian epicenters. A world-renowned venue in operation for over 100 years and host to the top West Coast polo tournaments, the club offers a variety of polo lessons, whether on school horses or your own private mount. Stay 15 minutes west in the Santa Barbara hills at Belmond’s El Encanto, a Spanish-colonialmeets-California-craftsman resort with a 600-bottle wine cellar and art by Damien Hirst and Charles Arnoldi.

The 317-acre Bishop's Lodge abuts the Santa Fe National Forest and includes private stables with over a dozen horses for guests.

MARCOS DI PAOLA: GUILLERMO G ALLARDO/LATINCONTENT/GET T Y IMAGES

Bishop’s Lodge, in Santa Fe; pro polo player Marcos Di Paola at full gallop; the serene views of Santa Barbara at the Belmond’s El Encanto pool.

wilderness, the resort’s 40 rooms and four home-style accommodations are close to both Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks, with riding arranged by the hotel. Next door, Spring Creek Ranch provides private trail rides through its 1,000-acre wildlife retreat; an hour away in Moran, Heart Six Ranch, one of the oldest dude ranches in the country, provides an authentic cowboy experience with multiday pack trips or guided tours of the trails once used by Butch Cassidy and the Hole in the Wall Gang.

R O B B R E P O R T. C O M

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The Goods | T R AV E L

H E A LT H

ROBB RECOMMENDS...

INTO THE WILD sedona’s red rocks are the main attraction at Ambiente, North America’s first landscape hotel, opening in January, but in a way you’ve never seen them. A relatively new concept in hospitality, landscape hotels allow nature to take center stage, nestling guests within the surrounding topography and using lowimpact, sustainable construction. Each one of Ambiente’s 40 glass-walled units, called atriums, sits on steel piers perched over some of Sedona’s best real estate, a wedge of pristine desert surrounded by national forest and threaded with a series of ancient waterways and natural, amphitheaterlike elevations. It’s the brainchild of Two Sister Bosses, a Sedona-based luxury-hotel development and management company run by siblings Jennifer May and Colleen TeBrake. Noting that almost half of each

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atrium is glass, May calls the surrounding views “Sedona on IMAX.” While Mother Nature is the hotel’s most stunning amenity, there are notable manmade creature comforts as well. Atriums feature cozy kitchens and on-demand wine dispensers with a selection of Northern Arizona vintages, while the poolside restaurant offers full breakfast, lunch and dinner menus. There’s also a three-room spa that will specialize in healing and relaxation therapies (as of this writing, the services are still being finalized). Carts make rounds throughout the day laden with coffee, gourmet snacks, pressed juices and craft cocktails—convenient for grabbing an early-morning pick-me-up on the way to the private trailhead and a sundowner upon your return. K.K.B.

On average, most Americans give up their New Year’s resolutions on January 17. Nearly two-thirds of all US gym memberships go utterly unused. We all want to be healthier, and most of us probably even know how. So why are we so bad at changing our behavior?

Stephen Kopecky, MD, a cardiologist and double-cancer survivor at the Mayo Clinic in Rochester, Minn., kept coming up against this question when advising his patients on how to reduce their likelihood of heart disease; his patients’ eyes, he says, would “glaze over.” So he decided to distill his advice into a book, Live Younger Longer, which breaks down what we need to do to enjoy the best possible health well into advanced age.

“About 85, 90 percent of where our diseases come from is our

lifestyle,” he says, citing six major risk factors—unhealthy eating, physical inactivity, chronic stress, smoking, inadequate sleep and overconsumption of alcohol—leading to poor health and premature death via all manner of illness.

Yet they’re within our control. Kopecky’s book is a manual of simple, practical advice to prevent the type of low-grade chronic inflammation that is thought to cause disease, including following a Mediterranean diet and a high-intensityinterval workout regimen. But it also spends ample time on habit formation, which might be what matters most. “If you know what’s important to keep your body healthy, you’re really way ahead of the game,” Kopecky says.

“The problem, of course, is doing it.”

Lucy Alexander

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Southern Exposure A new exhibition in Atlanta celebrates 25 years of compelling photography projects below the Mason-Dixon Line.

I

n 1996, while prepping an expansive historical survey of photography of the American South, Atlanta’s High Museum of Art commissioned three contemporary photographers to create new bodies of work about the region. Sally Mann’s eerie landscapes of antebellum plantations, Dawoud Bey’s pensive portraits of Black high school students and Alex Webb’s moody street photography in and around Atlanta were so affecting that the High soon enlisted another photographer, then another.

A quarter century, six curators and hundreds of images later, this month the museum is mounting Picturing the South: 25 Years, an exhibition celebrating its 16

commissions, including three new series

by An-My Lê, Jim Goldberg and Sheila Pree Bright. For these latest projects, current photography curator Gregory Harris, who was 12 when the inaugural show opened, sought out documentarystyle practitioners with fresh takes on the South while trying to correct for the previous gender and racial imbalances. “It was obvious there were far fewer women who had received the commission than men, and most of the people were white,” he says, “and so we wanted to bring in more diverse perspectives.”

Lê, for instance, immigrated to the United States as a refugee from her native Vietnam when she was a teenager and

ABOVE : Dawoud

Bey, Kanisha, 1996, dye diffusion transfer print. LEFT: Emmet Gowin, Aeration Pond, Toxic Water Treatment Facility, Georgetown, South Carolina, 2001, pigmented inkjet print.

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now lives in Brooklyn. She has documented the South before, photographing men reenacting Vietnam War firefights in the woods, and won a MacArthur Foundation “genius” fellowship in 2012. “One thing An-My is interested in is how the past is always present, and we’re grappling with the past as we’re navigating our way into the future,” Harris says. For Picturing the South, Lê photographed anti-racism protests last year in Washington, D.C., capturing what Harris calls the “contrast between these contemporary civic actions and the historic monuments and buildings,” as well as the inevitable

A R T | The Goods

Jim Goldberg, Controlled Burn, Wynne, Arkansas, 2021, pigmented inkjet print. BELOW: Richard Misrach, Swamp and Pipeline, Geismar, Louisiana, 1998, printed 2012, pigmented inkjet print.

artifice that results from such events being produced for media consumption.

Goldberg, based in San Francisco, also came to the assignment as an outsider.

Choosing to explore the nuances of small-town life, he zeroed in on two communities in Arkansas where many clans, white and Black, have lived for generations. “Some of the families that still own the land and have a lot of political control are the descendants of people who owned the ancestors of other residents of this same town,” Harris says. A river serves

as metaphor for both power and division.

“The work is really subtle. There are pictures that are raw and difficult to look at, where the emotion and economic disparity is right there on the surface. And then there are these other pictures that are very tender and human. He’s really getting into the complexities of these two towns and the way the people relate to one another. It’s fascinating work.”

Unlike the other two, Bright is a Black Southerner and lives outside Atlanta, where she found inspiration in her own

backyard: the massive Stone Mountain memorial, which features 90-foot-tall likenesses of Confederate leaders Jefferson Davis, Robert E. Lee and Stonewall Jackson carved into the peak’s granite face—a Mount Rushmore for the revisionist rubbish of the Lost Cause. Finished in 1972, the site has become a popular but controversial tourist attraction, complete with a summertime laser show. Harris says Bright’s images capture the “significance [the Southern landscape] has for the Black residents of the South.”

The current trio’s works will take their place alongside Alec Soth’s disaffected loners, Richard Misrach’s chronicle of Louisiana’s 85-mile stretch of petrochemical plants known as Cancer Alley, Martin Parr’s subversively lighthearted take on Atlanta’s strata of society and Kael Alford’s examination of marginalized Native American communities.

The anniversary show is by no means meant as a coda. “Our intention is to keep it going,” Harris says, though he notes that Picturing the South is not endowed, meaning the museum has to fundraise each time a curator wants to invite a new photographer. “But it’s worth it.”

Julie Belcove

R O B B R E P O R T. C O M

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The Goods | C A T E G O R Y

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:

WAT C H E S

All This for a Watch?

Panerai’s extreme VIP adventures are not for the faint of heart, but they just might change your life.

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A

s I peered up at the jagged cliff looming 700 feet in the air, my palms began to sweat. All I could think was, “What the hell have I gotten myself into?”

I was in Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park, along with 14 other adventurers, because of a watch— specifically, a Panerai Submersible Chrono Flyback Jimmy Chin Xperience Edition. The “experience” part of that name is key: Recently, the Italian watchmaker has been leading extreme excursions for buyers of select timepieces tied to high-

adrenaline pursuits. Previous trips have included a free-diving expedition in French Polynesia and a hard-core training experience with the Royal Italian Navy in La Spezia, Italy. In order to secure any of these ultra-limited watches, you need deep brand connections, an extensive Panerai purchase history and a willingness to pay well over retail for the adventure; at $42,000, the price of scaling a mountain with climber and filmmaker Jimmy Chin is roughly $20,000 over MSRP for a standard Submersible Chrono Flyback.

Most importantly, you also have to be willing to participate in the adventure.

And that, as I was about to learn, might be the hardest part.

My idea of a strenuous workout is running two miles on a treadmill, and I am terrified of heights. And yet there I was, a quarter of the way up an unforgiving 200-foot pitch, staring at the dried blood left behind on the rocks by other climbers and experiencing what pros refer to as “Elvis leg.” My right leg was all shook up; it wouldn’t stop trembling. But I desperately needed to move to keep from losing my grip— and so, using every muscle in my body, onward and upward I went.

I fell three times before I finally flung myself over a jagged crop of rock atop the pitch, trembling and exhausted. That’s when Jimmy Chin himself, one of the world’s best climbers and the filmmaker behind the Oscar-winning Free Solo, sat down next to me, took hold of my hands and led me through a series of breathing exercises. When I had sufficiently recovered, he looked at me and said something incredible: “You just climbed the hardest pitch on the whole trip!”

Panerai’s extreme adventures are not only about pushing your limits—this trip also included wake surfing on pristine Jackson Lake and a lovely rooftop dinner downtown at Coelette—but the fact remains I returned home truly transformed, feeling more capable than I thought possible. And I brought back a nice memento of the experience, a small red scar on my right arm in the shape of a smiley face. Every time I look at it, I think to myself, “You can do this,” no matter what “this” might be. And how do you put a price on that?

Paige Reddinger

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Reddinger climbing in Grand Teton National Park; Panerai Submersible Chrono Flyback Jimmy Chin Xperience Edition; Jimmy Chin.

WA T C H E S | The Goods

PANERAI: BRIT TANY MUMMA

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PARMIGIANI ON TOP “My role in this moment is really to shape and to define, in a very precise way, what is the soul of Parmigiani,” said Guido Terreni to Robb Report shortly after being appointed the brand’s CEO, in January. The soul itself is not in doubt—it comes directly from founder Michel Parmigiani, long considered one of the greatest living watchmakers—but its definition could use some work: Parmigiani Fleurier watches have at times lingered in the shadows of their contemporaries. Terreni plans to change that. Having spent the past two decades building Bulgari’s watch division into a respected horological force with six world records to its name under his stewardship (it now holds seven), he aims to articulate the spirit of the Parmigiani brand while simultaneously revamping its image, both physically and philosophically.

Out this month, a new line of Tonda PF models showcases a sleeker, more minimalist vibe that sacrifices none of the company’s artisanal know-how.

The collection is a more sophisticated follow-up to last year’s Tonda GT and Tondagraph GT models, which charted sporty new territory for clients looking for an everyday watch. The star is the handsome 42 mm by 15 mm Split Seconds Chronograph—numbered and limited to 25 pieces ($171,600 each)—which is accurate to one-tenth of a second and

Parmigiani Tonda PF Split Seconds Chronograph

features a dial and case dressed in monochrome 950 platinum. On the flip side: an extraordinary and ornate Caliber PF361 movement, with a main plate and bridges made of solid gold in an openworked, satin-finished and beveled design. Collectors may also be pleased to

see that the logo’s been changed to a more palatable “PF” at 12 o’clock in lieu of the company’s full name, which has often drawn comparisons to a certain famous cheese.

More sports, less dairy and a tight focus on the core: It’s a resolution that works for watchmakers, too. P.R.

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Arthouse Gems Two exhibitions, in Paris and New York, explore the fluid (and sometimes literal) connection between art and jewelry.

A Cartier Paris necklace commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess of Windsor in 1947

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ewelry is often described as wearable art—but, really, why not just have both? That seems to be the thinking behind this year's 10th anniversary of selling exhibition Salon Art + Design, at Manhattan’s Park Avenue Armory from November 11 through 15, which for the first time will showcase a sizable selection of fine jewelry alongside its blue-chip 20th-century art and some of the world’s best vintage, modern and contemporary designs.

Among the more than 50 leading art and design galleries, attendees will find jewelry firms Macklowe Gallery, Ornamentum Gallery, Didier Ltd. and Galerie Negropontes, along with

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Claude

Lalanne necklace and bracelet; Barbara ChaseRiboud ring; and Silvia Furmanovich earrings, all featured at Salon Art + Design.

Brazilian fine-jewelry designer Silvia Furmanovich, who is planning to debut a special installation of her latest design collection, including jewelry and home objets inspired by the natural landscape of the Amazon rainforest. Furmanovich collaborated with Brazilian artist Mestre André de Marinheira, whose wood sculptures will also be up for grabs.

Museum of Art, in collaboration with the Musée du Louvre, the exhibition will occupy galleries on two floors, with displays designed by New York firm Diller Scofidio + Renfro.

The first part of the exhibition explores the cultural backdrop of 1920s Paris, where Cartier’s interest in Islamic art took root. On display are jewels acquired by Jacques Cartier on his 1911 visit to India, plus books from Louis Cartier’s expansive Islamic art collection, reconstructed here for the first time.

The second half of the exhibition houses some 200 pieces of jewelry boasting recognizably Islamic patterns, silhouettes and forms, including a spectacular bib necklace of diamond, amethyst and turquoise commissioned in 1947 by the Duke of Windsor for the Duchess.

The show was brought together by Évelyne Possémé, chief curator of ancient and modern jewelry at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, and Judith Hénon-Raynaud, curator and deputy director of the Department of Islamic Art at the Musée du Louvre. “The shapes and motifs from the Islamic lexicon within Cartier creations are sometimes obvious, but other times they’re more difficult to detect,” the pair wrote to Robb Report.

“This source of inspiration is an essential part of the house’s creations, but one that has not been explored in depth until now.”

The curators say they hope visitors will come away with a better understanding of the artistic process at a house like Cartier as well as of the Islamic world’s rich and fascinating legacy of decorative arts.

Victoria Gomelsky

Meanwhile, in Paris, a new exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs underscores Cartier’s connection to India, whose maharajas commissioned some of the house’s most extravagant 20th-century jewels. Cartier and Islamic Art: In Search of Modernity, on display through Feb. 20, 2022, features more than 500 pieces of jewelry and precious objects, art, drawings, books, photographs and archival documents that tell the story of how Cartier found inspiration in the Islamic world. Co-organized by the Dallas

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“This source of inspiration is an essential part of the house’s creations, but one that has not been explored in depth until now.”

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Auro Montanari photographed in his home in Bologna, Italy

The Answers with . . .

AURO MONTANARI One of the most influential watch collectors in the world, Auro Montanari—also known by the alias John Goldberger—has amassed a vast vault over the past 43 years.

Having acquired Patek Philippe and Rolex models at bargain prices during the quartz crisis in the ’70s, Montanari found himself sitting on a gold mine when the renaissance of mechanical watchmaking occurred roughly two decades later.

The recent boom in sought-after vintage pieces has only furthered his renown. His Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265, nicknamed “The Unicorn” because it was the only known vintage white-gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced, sold for $5.9 million in 2018 when it went up for auction at Phillips. Montanari donated the proceeds to the Geneva-based charity Children Action. But the native of Bologna, Italy, is equally known for his refined sense of style and an eye for everything from photography to rare books to fine china. PAIGE REDDINGER

Do you have any personal rituals?

Just to drink Illy espresso made with mocha, the old Italian way.

What advice do you wish you’d followed?

I started in Italy [at a university] specializing in design and photography, very similar to the Parsons School in New York. After that, my father advised me to go to a good university in California, like Stanford or USC, but I was very lazy. I preferred to spend my time playing basketball, surfing and buying watches at vintage flea markets.1

Why California?

When I went to the States for the first time in ’78, I went to New York and discovered it’s very expensive for a young guy. So then I went to California and discovered it’s a wonderful life there and not expensive. I remember the first year I was in California, in ’80 or ’81, it was easy to buy a car, to rent an apartment in Venice Beach or Santa Monica, and the life was more exciting. I stayed from ’80 to ’84. I was 22 or 23 years old to 25, and I met my wife, a German girl who was living there. Unfortunately, she passed away from cancer almost 20 years ago. I have a new wife now, but I had happy times in California.

1

One of Montanari’s favorite flea markets is Mercato di Resina, on Via Pugliano in Ercolano, Italy.

What do you do that’s still analog?

I am a digital man, but I still read and collect real books. I love the smell of paper. I’m a big fan of photography books. I have many books by Henri Cartier-Bresson and Irving Penn, but the original ones printed in the ’70s.

They’re very collectible. They have been reprinted, and the quality is better, but I prefer to have the originals, the first editions.

What in your wardrobe do you wear most often?

The light-blue oxford button-down shirts by Brooks Brothers, New York and vintage chambray shirts.

How do you find calm?

To take sun everywhere possible. I like to spend time in New York, and many times I go to the park to a bench in the direction of the sun, mostly in the winter. I have tan skin all year long.

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The Answers with . . . AURO MONTANARI

Who is your guru?

My father was my guru. My father was always a good example because . . . he worked hard to build something. He set up a company from nothing. He was a good engineer, and he set up a very novel company in Italy with a focus on IT. He was also very elegant. He approached fashion the right way. He was never a fashion victim. He taught me how to find the right things, whether it was tailor or a shop, and to save my money to buy vintage pieces.

Did he pass any watches down to you?

No, my father gave me a vintage Omega Seamaster for my Communion, when I was somewhere between 8 and 10 years old, made in the same year of my birth, in 1957. Later, in the ’70s, he gave me good advice: “Start to buy watches, because they are very cheap. . . . Buy Patek Philippe because it is a strong brand.” I said to him, “Who is Patek Philippe?” I knew only of Cartier, Omega and Rolex. He told me, “Go to Geneva and study.” So I went to see this small building on a lake, the small shop of Patek Philippe, to understand why the brand was so strong. At that time, there were no books or information available.

I started to develop my knowledge and collect watches in ’78, when I was 20 years old.

FROM TOP: Books

by Montanari; a Hasselblad X1D medium format camera; Chinese porcelain vases and jars with English china; the collector’s Cartier Tank Cintrée in platinum with custom-made dial.

What was your first watch purchase?

A vintage Rolex chronograph, which I purchased in an antiques shop in Bologna. It was $500. In the ’80s, I bought a very nice rectangular Patek “Hour Glass,” which I bought for about $900 at a flea market in Italy.2 Also, I discovered a watch source in New York in ’78. At a flea market, I met a young lady who was Andy Warhol’s watch buyer, and she introduced me to him. In Beverly Hills, there was also a great pawn shop where you could find incredible watches and jewelry from stars like Ava Gardner.

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Today, the average price for a vintage Patek Philippe “Hour Glass” is around $22,000.

What’s the most recent thing you’ve added to your collection?

A very rare and unique platinum Cartier Tonneau chronograph monopusher manufactured at the end of the ’20s.

Who is your dealer and what do they source for you?

My preferred “pusher” is a good friend of mine. I like to call him my pusher because whenever he finds something he thinks I will like, he tries to sell it to me. He is Italian and knows my taste in watches very well. He is one of the most important dealers in Italy, or in Europe.

Everything is rare and in perfect condition with good provenance and a good story.

Is there a watch you have always wanted but still haven’t found?

Ah, so many. The holy grail for me is always the next discovery. One in particular is a Patek Philippe perpetual calendar with a chronograph Ref. 1518. I have it in pink gold and in steel. But from the books of Patek, we know that they made only one piece in platinum. No one has seen a photo, and no one knows where it is located.

Which watch are you wearing?

I love to wear my platinum Cartier Tank Cintrée, which I had custom made in the Cartier boutique in Paris with Roman numerals instead of Arabic, in blue.3

What else do you collect?

I like to collect some old porcelain china for my kitchen, pots that were used to contain tea powder, from the end of the 19th century. I bought all of these pots in New York almost 20 years ago. They were about $900 or $1,000 when I bought them, but now they are more expensive and there are many fake oriental pieces.

What’s the most impressive dish you cook?

I love to spend time in my kitchen. My specialty is pasta with zucchini, like in Nerano, on the Sorrento coast. I use a Wolf stove and oven from the States. They shipped it to me in Italy because they are very hard

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To see more of Montanari’s watch collection, follow him on Instagram @montanariauro or @goldberger.

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The Answers with . . . AURO MONTANARI

Montanari wearing a sweater and jeans, both by Double RL, sitting in his wardrobe

to find here. My pots and pans are also from the States. I’ve spent a lot of money on shipping!

What is your favorite cocktail?

A frozen margarita with a good tequila. I started drinking margaritas in the Mexican restaurants when I was living in California. I like a good frozen margarita with nachos.

What is your exercise routine and how often do you do it?

No exercises, because I am very lazy. Maybe I am lucky with my metabolism, but I was a big sportsman when I was young. When I was 12 or 13, I was told I had a heart murmur and shouldn’t do sports, so I made a fake certificate so I could play basketball. Now I just try to walk.

What does success look like?

To do what I like without hurting my family or my business team.

Where do you get your clothes?

I purchase vintage and military clothes in flea markets around the world. I also love clothes by Double RL, Brooks Brothers shirts, and all of my suits are handmade by my tailors in Bologna and Naples.

One of them is a tailor named Solito, who specializes in Neapolitan jackets with a good shoulder, handmade stitching and applied pockets.

Drive or be driven?

I do not like to drive. I love to travel by train and by plane.

When was the last time you completely unplugged?

I unplug when I visit the bank vault once a month to see my watch collection in complete relaxation. I keep all of my watches there because it is not safe in Italy. I have a small private room underground where I sit and I have all of the watches organized by style, by

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type and by age. I go there and study them and take some photos.

I always stay half an hour or 45 minutes.

How would you describe your look?

La sprezzatura, a studied carelessness.

What’s your favorite hotel?

The Whitby in New York because it’s in a good location, they have good service and good decor, and I love the private room downstairs with the fireplace, which is only for the guests, and the small garden.

The breakfast is also very good there.

What’s always in your hand luggage?

A camera. I have a Sony AR7 II full format. I also sometimes use a Leica, but it’s not digital. The Sony is good because it’s a good price and good quality. It takes really good photos.

What is the car you are most attached to?

My first car, a convertible VW Beetle. But I made it a present to a young engineer in my company who loves vintage cars. I hadn’t used it for the last 10 or 20 years, and he will still let me drive it.

What’s worth paying for?

Freedom.

Last box set or Netflix binge?

Recently, I purchased a DVD of Le Mans, with Steve McQueen, because I am writing, with Cesare Maria Mannucci, a new book, Time to Race, Part II, and I am trying to recognize the wristwatches worn by characters in the movie.

Bowie or Dylan?

Bowie. He was a great character during my youth.

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The only man in history to complete elite training as a Navy SEAL, Army Ranger and Air Force Tactical Air Controller, Goggins went on to set records in numerous endurance events, even inspiring Outside magazine to name him “The Fittest (Real) Man in America.”

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By choosing professional publishing instead of traditional publishing, he retained ownership of his content and his story and ultimately made 3.5 times more in royalties than he would have with a traditional deal.

The book was an instant success. Goggins shares his astonishing life story, illustrates how most of us tap into only 40% of our capabilities (the 40% Rule), and illuminates a path that anyone can follow to reach their full potential. It immediately hit every

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Adri Chair in Pistache, Slash Objects Marble and comfort are not typical companions in execution, but this sling-seat chair defies convention.

The statement piece is composed of two marble slabs with delicate green veining (hence the name Pistache) that are connected with brass hardware to hold the mohair-upholstered sling in place. Customization options ensure this minimalist design will have maximum impact in any surroundings. $11,942

Book Ends, Orior These bookends are so stoic and regal they render actual tomes irrelevant. Each sculptural pair comes in one uniform size, slightly smaller than your average hardcover book, that are available in four marble colorways. Every hue and material is unique and rich enough to blend with your favorite reads. From $1,470

Kafa Stool, Luca Erba

Impact Console Table, Studio Greytak The idea that stalactites, the mineral formations that often hang from the dank ceilings of caves, can be wedded to a warm design seems improbable, but the creators of this console did just that. Set on an aluminum base, the stalactite, which is sourced from China, is inverted from its traditional position, piercing up and through the hand-formed, silvered-glass tabletop. $165,000

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So many stools serve a utilitarian purpose; this one offers commentary as well.

Created to impart a certain weight to its environment, it’s made entirely of gray St. Laurent marble, with deep color contrasts for dramatic effect. But while the physicality of the seat is evident, it’s not overwhelming, thanks to the graceful contours of the design. $7,520 Courtney Hazlett

Third Eye Suspension Light, Chen Chen & Kai Williams Designers Chen Chen and Kai Williams famously riff on classic materials in surprising ways. In this case, they’ve flipped their Third Eye Vessel, originally used for storing books and magazines, upside down, creating a space for illumination.

By utilizing honey onyx, this suspended lighting fixture takes advantage of the stone’s variable shades and semitranslucency, casting a warm glow that will make any room more welcoming. $1,800

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Domain | N E W S

Everything in the apartment is for sale, including the Jeff Zimmerman Vine chandelier and Ashley Hicks Totem sculpture pictured here.

Q&A

Peter Marino Principal, Peter Marino Architect PLLC

if you’ve streamed Only Murders in the Building on Hulu and considered a move to the Belnord, the New York City landmark on which the show’s titular building, the Arconia, is based, this one-stop-shop exhibit may streamline your process.

The Belnord Project is the brainchild of Guillaume Coutheillas, founder of interior design and branding studio frenchCALIFORNIA. Coutheillas flips the traditional approach to real estate on its head by partnering with galleries, artists and developers to introduce their pieces to potential buyers: Everything’s for sale, from the furnishings to the art to the apartment itself.

From a Greta Magnusson Grossman curved sofa in ivory bouclé upholstery to a Renate Müller Universe wool carpet—even a coffee table in brass hex tiles by the Haas Brothers—pieces in the collection (which range in price from $2,500 to $165,000) showcase some of the greatest contemporary designers.

The selection was further curated by Evan Snyderman, cofounder of design gallery R & Company.

The Belnord occupies an entire city block on Broadway bordered by West 86th and 87th Streets. The property was recently restored by Robert A. M. Stern

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Architects, who kept the original floor concepts in mind. frenchCALIFORNIA has fully redesigned Residence 1005, available for $6.47 million, creating a space that “embodies the spirit of the Upper West Side.” The result is a classic layout with contemporary interiors.

“Rather than the cookie-cutter model apartment, our exhibitions tell a story and allow visitors to have an experience, all while learning about some of the most important designers and artists in history and today,” says Coutheillas. “It was an exciting task to create a space that nods to the architecture and exteriors of the landmarked Belnord building while also appealing to a modern-day buyer or collector.” Julia Zaltzman

One of the main focuses of your new monograph is Chanel’s architecture based on its geographic context.

How essential is that context to architecture and design? Context is essential to architecture that I produce. Otherwise, you get McDonald’s “one size fits all,” which is brand-boxing, not architecture.

Have luxury-retail commissions slowed down due to the pandemic? I thought all the brands would

go into hibernation. But for companies that are well financed, they look at this as a moment of opportunity.

They’ve all said, “Business is slow anyway, so let’s renovate all our stores.”

We have a new building for Chanel opening in Miami in December; another building for the brand in Los Angeles is underway. For Dior, the flagship on Avenue Montaigne is doubling in size from our 1995 version and opening in December. We recently opened Cheval Blanc Paris, a nine-story hotel with four restaurants we designed this past September. Even during the pandemic, we opened a new Louis Vuitton in Tokyo and another in Dubai.

Apparently, prior to our Zoom era, you had no desire to ever touch or use a computer. Why is it so important to you that your sketches and ideas are all drawn by hand? Computers actually aesthetically interfere with one’s ideas. They have their own visual look that’s commercial and dull.

How do you choose artists when incorporating art into a space? One of the things I bring to architecture is my fine-art background and my interest in fine arts, my involvement with artists and the way my career was launched with artists. I go to art galleries wherever I am in the world—New York, London, Venice, Milan, Paris. I gather ideas, I make meaningful connections and I take notes.

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Few, if any, architects have worked on as many luxury retail projects as Peter Marino. He has been credited with redefining the discipline via big commissions such as a strikingly minimalist Giorgio Armani store in New York and a blackand-white Chanel tower in Tokyo. Both infused aspects of brand identity into the brick-and-mortar, a welcome antidote to more generic storefronts.

Over the years, his practice—which has offices in Manhattan, Philadelphia and Southampton—has worked on a handful of residential designs as well, a discipline Marino broke into by renovating Andy Warhol’s Upper East Side townhouse in the late ’70s. It’s retail, though, and specifically as it pertains to one particular brand, that is the subject of his new book, Peter Marino: The Architecture of Chanel, out this month.

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THE GREAT WIDE OPEN when an active young family from New York City was relocating to a 7,838-square-foot waterfront property in Miami, they entrusted Allen Saunders Design with some clear priorities for their newly built residence. They wanted comfort, functionality and “a timeless modern aesthetic” to pair with contemporary Balinese-inspired architecture, according to Saunders. It’s no surprise, then, that the entry foyer— the main artery of the home both for those who live there and for visitors—is the manifestation of all those desires.

Creating an entryway with a mix of organic materials and muted tones was not without risk, Saunders points out.

“Combining multiple finish materials in varying color tones, textures and patterns within an entrance area could prove disastrous,” he says. “The space could easily become extremely complicated, visually cluttered and overwhelming to the eye,” he adds. “Our selections were methodical and placed with intention to achieve the quiet balance desired by our client and design team.” C.H.

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4

1

1. White oak wall: A mostly neutral but textured canvas, the space features warm, white, deep-grained horizontal oak paneling. This provides a subtly stunning backdrop for custom fixtures, such as the suspended light sculpture.

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2. Bronze light sculpture: Commissioned through Irish artist Niamh Barry, it’s intended to be a focal point. That fixture, Saunders says, was conceived early in the design process, developed together with the artist in an appropriate scale to anchor the double-height vestibule.

3. Console: Pairing seamlessly with the sculpture is a console by renowned metal artist Gary Magakis. The piece, which varies in depth, height and texture, adds “further layering at floor level” against the monochromatic gray-toned background.

4. Vase and painting: Complementing the layering are Steven Haulenbeek’s icecast bronze vase and the grand painting from Roberto Gomez, which blends the two neutral colors into a secondary focal point.

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THE BRIGHT SIDE

ABOVE: One of the

property’s two terraces. LEFT AND BELOW: The owner infused the penthouse with glass to capitalize on the natural light.

one terrace is good; two are unquestionably better. A home in London’s South Kensington neighborhood with that layout has just listed for $12.3 million, and it’s an ideal setup for those looking to live a bit more indoor-outdoor.

Inside, the residence has the sort of layout that you’d expect of a penthouse property: a sprawling living room and dining room, three bedrooms and three bathrooms, a primary suite with a dressing room attached plus a separate space for a home gym. It’s easily accessible from the outside world, too—the elevator opens directly into the penthouse foyer.

In addition to the 3,065-square-foot interior, the home also comes with 1,500 square feet of outdoor space.

That number is split evenly between a western terrace that’s attached to the kitchen and an eastern terrace directly

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In addition to the 3,065-square-foot interior, the home also comes with 1,500 square feet of outdoor space.

off the primary bedroom.

The former is more of an entertainment space and has a sunroom where residents can enjoy an alfresco meal; the latter is a private terrace with a hot tub. They’re connected by a wraparound balcony that runs along the whole unit, offering soaring views of the city from every angle.

The owner, a real-estate developer, put his interiors background to use and redesigned the home to suit his taste, incorporating more mirrors and glass chandeliers into the space.

Oh, and Hugh Grant lived here at one point, albeit almost 20 years ago. H.M.

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Genius at Work

SMALL BUT MIGHTY Maurizio Fioravanti is keeping the lost art of micromosaics alive in jewels that are more than meets the eye.

BY KAREEM RASHED PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAURIZIO COGLIANDRO

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long before graphic tees and novelty cups sullied the memorabilia market, micromosaics were the original must-have Italian souvenir. They took off in the 18th century when a few enterprising mosaicists employed by the Vatican found that Grand Tour–ing aristos, including Napoleon and Catherine the Great, would pay top dollar for miniature re-creations of the tiled masterpieces seen at the papal pile—a kind of proto-photo. In the centuries since, such skilled practitioners have all but vanished and micromosaics have become a rarity seldom seen outside of antiques shops.

Growing up in Rome, Maurizio Fioravanti collected ancient bits of marble and toyed with the idea vof fashioning them into small-scale artworks. Thirty years later, he is one of the few contemporary micromosaicists. Entirely self-taught, Fioravanti combines old-world techniques with cutting-edge materials for Vamguard, a jewelry collection he launched in 2015.

Because of the painstaking work that goes into each design, Fioravanti creates fewer than 10 pieces annually—making his mosaics more precious than many gems.

LEFT

1

The Big Idea Working out of his studio in the city, Fioravanti begins at the drawing board.

Before he knows what kind of jewel he’ll make, he often does a rough sketch of the scene he envisions for the piece’s tiled elements. While he does think as a jeweler, Fioravanti says, “for me, the most important thing is the magical realism” of the art.

BOTTOM LEFT

2

Supporting Cast Once his vision has taken shape, Fioravanti experiments with materials to complement the mosaic. He often juxtaposes the ancient craft with distinctly modern metals, such as titanium, carbon fiber or even surgical-grade steel. He drafts a technical drawing of the design, detailing how the most complex mechanical parts can be engineered into a three-dimensional jewel.

BOTTOM RIGHT

3

A Woman’s Touch Vamguard was cofounded with Virginie Torroni, a Geneva-based gem dealer.

Fioravanti consults her on which stones to feature and how the design appeals to a woman. “After the crash test” of finding the mounting material, Fioravanti says, “you have the Virginie test.”

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Genius at Work

RIGHT

4

Sticking Point Because every mosaic is mounted on a different metal, each one requires a unique adhesive.

Fioravanti tinkers with his own formulations to ensure that the minuscule tiles will stay securely in place for generations to come.

BOTTOM LEFT

5

More Than the Rainbow The tiny tiles, or tesserae, that make up each mosaic begin as slabs of mineral-rich, opaque glass that Fioravanti custom-colors and fires himself. Determining the palette for each design is a crucial step, as the nuances in hues are what Fioravanti uses to create illusions of light and shadow. As he says, “I paint with the tesserae as my brush.”

BOTTOM RIGHT

6

Going to Pieces The glass slabs are hand-cut into individual tiles that vary from 3 mm to one-tenth of a mm thick.

Fioravanti makes the tesserae into shapes and sizes specific to the design he’s creating—say, the whisker of a cat or the crest of a wave. A mosaic can require thousands of individual tiles.

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Genius at Work

TOP LEFT

7

Stage Setting Fioravanti introduced the art of micromosaic on curved surfaces. Because his mosaics need to hug the contours of a wrist or dangle from an ear, Fioravanti often calls on his architecture background when building the frame in which the tiles will be arranged.

TOP RIGHT

8

Ready, Steady When it comes to setting the mosaic, the artist’s primary tools are “very tiny pincers and very long patience.” He begins with the most critical element of a design, like the pupil of an eye, and builds from there.

The process takes anywhere from three months to three years. “When you work in one centimeter,” he says, “you lose the sense of time.”

LEFT

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Shine On The completed mosaic is polished to a velvety finish and handed off to nearby goldsmiths, with whom Fioravanti collaborates on the gem-setting and construction of the finished jewel. It’s a labor of love.

“For me,” Fioravanti says, “normal jewelry is beautiful but boring.”

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The 2022 Bentley Continental GT Speed reminds us why sporty 12-cylinder cars will always be a gas.

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DREAM MACHINES

GUT TER CREDITS

A DEVOTION TO MOTION

R O B B R E P O R T. C O M

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Dream Machines | W H E E L S

T

hough Bentley has long leaned into its Art Deco–era reputation forged by large-displacement, Le Mans– winning racers, the 102-year-old British automaker seems amped about its electric future, having committed to a gas-free lineup in a scant nine years. But its fuel lines aren’t empty quite yet. The newest Continental GT variant, with its dozen gas-combusting cylinders and scripted “Speed” badge, is a full-throated endorsement of the old ways. But the burning question is, with hybrid and battery-powered Bentleys just around the corner, does this grand tourer feel as momentous as it should?

Sicily’s craggy back roads help highlight the marque’s longstanding calling cards of towering torque and an imperturbable ride, but the eye-opener comes when hauling the two-and-a-

With substantial chassis refinements and four-wheel steering, the 605 hp Continental GT Speed is disarmingly agile.

half-ton coupe around an abandoned military base converted into a makeshift autocross course: Somehow, despite the boat anchor of a power plant stuffed under the hood and enough soundproofing to mute an AC/DC concert, you can chuck the posh two-plus-two into corners like a WRC rally car. Keep your hands quick and your foot heavy and the GT Speed flashes its rambunctious side, kicking its tail out and sliding through corners with surprising grace. Complementing the spicier handling—and mocking the politely indicated braking zones—are the Continental’s debut of carbonceramic stoppers.

Though the last-generation Continental GT Supersports produced more power, the new Speed has been christened the most dynamically capable model in Bentley’s history. The 6.0-liter W-12 filling the capacious engine bay has 650 hp and 664 ft lbs of torque on tap, but more importantly the chassis has been heavily massaged, starting with Bentley’s first electronic limited-slip rear differential. The hardware and software work in tandem to increase nimbleness and stability, with a little help from the new four-wheel steering, which has been tuned to minimize the turning radius

by pitching the rear wheels up to four degrees in the opposite direction of the front set. Clever stuff.

Revised power distribution gives the car a more rearward bias to avoid the dreaded plowing effect of understeer, and the reprogrammed air suspension offers greater range between comfort and stiffness, depending on the selected drive mode and road conditions. But despite all the high-tech goodies employed in the quest for speed, this new GT variant doesn’t flaunt the fixed spoiler and carbon-fiber seats of earlier Supersports models. Instead, its clean, muscular lines and Alcantara-and-hide-lined interior— featuring a range of textures, from lustrous veneers to aluminum finishes— present a more subdued elegance that recalls the golden age of motoring.

The 2022 Continental GT Speed is less snorty supercar, more an amplification of the well-honed grand-touring formula.

And while it may not prove to be Bentley’s finale for internal combustion, this unapologetic 12-cylinder, with its old-school, high-octane athleticism and stately sheet metal, seems designed to deliver a very future-looking message, indeed: You’re going to miss me when I’m gone. Basem Wasef

Keep your hands quick and your foot heavy and the GT Speed flashes its rambunctious side.

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Dream Machines | W H E E L S

FERRARI CAVALCADE? IF YOU DON’T KNOW, YOU WEREN’T INVITED it must be galling to buy your first new Ferrari, only to discover that the purchase of your $300,000 car unlocks just the initial level of privilege and access within the world of the Prancing Horse elite. The climb up Ferrari’s customer ladder is long, winding and extremely costly, requiring the acquisition of multiple examples of the marque’s rarest and most expensive models—by invitation only, of course—and participation in some of the inventive ways the brand has for you to spend money with it, such as the Challenge race series or the F1 Clienti track-car program.

And the top rung of that ladder? It just may be Cavalcade, an annual fourday road rally organized by Ferrari in a different Italian region each year. It costs nearly $30,000 per car, and that’s just the start. Shipping your vehicle to Italy, which might cost just as much, is on you—note

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You’re part of a steroidal convoy of 100 of Ferrari’s rarest modern cars, along with 50 classics, over some of Italy’s best driving roads.

The annual—and ultra-exclusive— parade of Prancing Horses, where residents come out of their homes to help celebrate the marque.

that some of your fellow participants will fly in both an open-air model for sunshine and another, with a roof, in case of rain— as is covering additional rooms for your entourage. For the hard-core Ferrari obsessives, none of this is a deterrent: In mid-September, the private aviation terminal closest to the hotel for this year’s event in Sicily was booked solid.

But before you start readying your bank transfer, you’ll first need to be invited. For some, it’s the invitation of the year; Reno De Paoli, Ferrari’s global head of marketing, says some clients organize their entire summers around Cavalcade, and after piloting a humble 812 GTS in this year’s rally I understand why. Seeing a single Monza or LaFerrari in the wild is an event in itself, but with Cavalcade you’re part of a steroidal convoy of 100 of Ferrari’s rarest modern cars, along with 50 iconic classics, over some of Italy’s best driving roads. All of this is done, naturalmente, with the support of the local carabinieri. Coffee and lunch stops are often held in private villas, while the dinners feature spectacular entertainment—think dancers etching rivers of fire into a moonlit beach.

The only downside? Fear of missing out. “It’s absolutely bonkers,” one young British property magnate with a string of Ferraris told me. “Once you’ve got a taste for this event, you just want to stay on the list.” Ben Oliver

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Oxford Financial Group, Ltd. is an investment adviser registered with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission. Registration does not imply a certain level of skill or training. More information about Oxford Financial Group’s investment advisory services and fees can be found in its Form ADV Part 2, which is available upon request. The Caproasia list of top 10 largest multi-family offices in the world is based on assets as reported in the Form ADV as of December 31, 2019. This list excludes multi-family offices that are operated within banking groups or a subsidiary of banking groups. The Financial Planning magazine lists of the 2020 Top 15 Firms and the 2013-2017 Top 150 RIA Firms are based on assets under management as reported in the Form ADV. The lists contain independent fee-only planning firms. Broker-dealers, insurance company affiliations and firms with substantial outside ownership stakes held by private equity firms and some outside investors are excluded. The lists do not include roll-ups, aggregators or turnkey asset management programs. To capture firms that provide true, holistic financial advice to individuals, only firms with more than 50% individual clients, as can be determined through Form ADVs, are included. The rating may not be representative of a client’s experience and is not indicative of future performance. Oxford did not pay a fee for inclusion in the rankings, but may purchase reprints. OFG-2015-21 *As of 10.1.20 **As of 12.31.19

FROM BODY BUILDER TO AUTOMAKER within the past several years, many of Europe’s few surviving coachbuilders have had to redefine themselves as boutique carmakers, with mixed results.

Of these, Italy’s Pininfarina, arguably the most revered carrozzeria of them all, hopes to set the benchmark for both design and execution with its offshoot

Automobili Pininfarina and the new 1,877 hp, all-electric Battista hypercar.

Testing the two-seater in Southern California’s high desert, we can’t come close to teasing its limits, but no matter. Pressing the throttle in Energica mode—“limited” to a mere 1,495 hp—is like teleporting to the next apex with a side effect of intense chest compression; dialed up to Furiosa, which allows access to every last horse, the acceleration feels like one of them kicked you in the solar plexus. No surprise, since the power train is supplied by EV wunderkind Mate

With four electric motors, the 1,877 hp Battista can be piloted from full stop to 60 mph in under two seconds.

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Rimac and is the same one that underpins his Rimac Nevera, the fastest-accelerating production car in the world.

Named after Pininfarina’s founder, the $2 million-plus Battista is equipped with an electric motor at each wheel and a 120 kwh high-power-density battery pack. The results are stats that read like typos: 1,696 ft lbs of torque, a 217 mph top speed and a zero-to-60 mph time under 2.0 seconds—quicker than MotoGP prototypes.

Just when you’ve caught your breath from the absurd thrust, the Battista’s cornering prowess snatches it away again.

The car vectors torque in a way we’ve simply never experienced, spinning the outside wheels faster than the inside front rubber in a corner, allowing the car to pivot on a tighter radius, or so it feels.

The Battista also turns a corner when it comes to the constructor’s design language. Automobili Pininfarina’s design director Luca Borgogno’s sleek, elegant work is a worthy offering to the gods of balance and proportion; squint and you just may glimpse a Ferrari 458 in the hips and sensuous haunches. But details such as the razor-thin rear LEDs and a split active-aero rear wing confirm that this beast is sui generis, the first product from a new Pininfarina, one that has evolved into artist and automaker both. No more than 150 examples of the Battista will be sold, with US deliveries starting in 2022.

Nicolas Stecher

JAMES LIPMAN

Dream Machines | W H E E L S

WAT E R

A Whole New World You haven’t been truly underwater until you’ve explored the ocean’s depths in a submersible.

W

hat a thing, to be in a submersible for the first time, separated from reef fish and ginclear water by nothing more than a few inches of acrylic. Inside the three-person Triton 3300/3 there’s a complete 360-degree line of sight, making it hard to discern where the transparent sphere ends and ocean begins. It’s unexpectedly roomy—not to mention the comfortable seats and crisp air— with unobstructed views up front,

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underfoot, overhead, even through the pilot’s seat in the rear.

Just minutes earlier I’d been aboard the U Boat Navigator, a dedicated dive vessel, bouncing in lively seas off Malta.

A pair of submersibles—a one-seat Triton 3300/1 alongside the three-seater—sat on the foredeck. “A sub is not a toy,” Tom Hutton, Cookson Adventures’ director of operations, told us. “It’s a means of exploring an alien environment.” Capable of diving to 3,300 feet, the Triton is a popular choice among researchers and

documentarians, including the crews who made the BBC’s Blue Planet II and Great Barrier Reef with Sir David Attenborough.

As we descend toward the hull of a sunken German WWII patrol boat, Hutton’s term “alien environment” comes alive. The feeling is otherworldly, both thrilling and peaceful. At 82 feet down, sunrays shimmer off the seafloor and the wreck swarms with fish and divers.

It’s surprisingly quiet inside the sub, nothing but a soft mechanical whirring as pilot Dmitry Tomashov alternates

WA T E R | Dream Machines

SUPER YACHT SUB 3: ROB A ARSEN

At 574 feet, the ocean floor looked like a barren desert, tranquil and eerie.

between navigating around the vessel and hovering above the ocean floor. On the foredeck, the nearly 18,000-pound sphere seemed large and unwieldy, but the Triton is at home underwater, gliding with precision as Tomashov steers from a central console. Claustrophobia, which I had feared, never materializes. After 45 minutes, we ascend from the dreamlike state back to the surface.

After such an incomparable experience, it’s no surprise that demand for private submersibles is soaring. Yacht

owners are building boats with room enough to store a mini-sub—sometimes two—and they’re a feature on many cruise ships. But they’re expensive machines: The 3300/3 costs around $3.8 million, while the Super Yacht Sub 3, from competitor U-Boat Worx (which I had test-dived two weeks prior) is closer to $2.9 million. Many owners keep them not just for fun, but as research vehicles for archaeological dives and for the discovery of new marine species.

Barbara van Bebber, one of a handful of female sub pilots in the world, has spent hours underwater with scientists. Near U-Boat Worx’s pilot-training facility, in Curaçao, she took me on a 90-minute dive to 500 feet in the Super Yacht Sub 3. As in Malta, visibility in the clear Caribbean water was excellent, though the Sub 3’s fighter-jet-like cockpit restricted rear views. At 500 feet, we were brushing only half of the sub’s depth rating.

The sun’s rays were still visible 130 feet down; at 230 feet, we cruised past volcanic lava reefs awash with vibrant coral whips.

A barracuda loomed into view before disappearing into the darkness in pursuit of a large shoal of fish. “Too fast for us,” van Bebber said, noting that the sub tops

On deck (above), a submersible looks unwieldy, but underwater (left) it’s a surprisingly graceful machine.

out at three knots. She was navigating with joystick controls, a feature the Triton doesn’t have, which allows her to hand over steering to passengers.

At 574 feet, the ocean floor looked like barren desert, tranquil and eerie. In that dark expanse, illuminated by only our lights, we kept in constant radio communication with the surface. Van Bebber’s considerable experience kept any worry at bay—as did the Sub 3’s Deadman’s Switch, a safety system that automatically initiates ascent unless acknowledged by the pilot every 10 minutes.

My day with U Boat Navigator’s Triton 3300/3 came about as part of Cookson’s charter aboard Lady in Blue, though the company can set up custom charters on other superyachts around the world with submersibles. For about $41,000, Malta-based U Boat Navigator also coordinates piloted sub day trips to other charter yachts. But there are other ways to experience submersibles besides access to a very large boat. U-Boat Worx offers several courses at its pilot-training facility, ranging from a one-day, $4,700 course with classwork and three dives to a 16-day Chief Pilot Course for about $35,000.

Julia Zaltzman

R O B B R E P O R T. C O M

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MADE FOR TV

became the first franchise team and ninth member of the league in September.

“We looked at the world’s biggest leagues and took the best parts,” Coutts says. “We made the final race winnertakes-all, since NBA statistics show many viewers only watch the last quarter.”

Racing before thousands of spectators is another draw, with helmsmen playing

SailGP is attempting to reset sailing’s image with speed, athleticism and adrenaline.

SECOND WIND kitesurfing has become the go-to sport for board lovers, and now, following much the same idea, a 140-square-foot kite will be common on Silent Yachts 60-foot motor yachts.

CEO Michael Köhler spent several years searching for an easy-to-use automated kite system that would double as an additional power source for his zero-emission solar-electricpowered cats. “It’s more tool than toy,”

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chicken in high-speed maneuvering.

The extreme sailing displays impressive athleticism and real-time drama. “We’re all miked-up to cameras on board, so viewers can feel the stress,” says US team driver Jimmy Spithill.

The F50s are based on the 2017 America’s Cup racing cats, but faster; in August, Ben Ainslie, driving Great Britain’s cat, set a record of 61.1 mph. “They can sail four times faster than the wind,” Coutts says. “There’s an element of danger we’re not trying to disguise.”

Despite the fledgling league’s careful crafting and a name-brand bankroll, success is hardly guaranteed. “We’re ahead with venue procurement, and selling franchises happened sooner than expected,” says Coutts. “But sponsorship isn’t where we thought it would be.”

But damn the naysayers, declare the racers. “It’s the best shot we have of reaching a much broader audience,” says Ainslie. Michael Verdon

Köhler says of the Wingit kite. “It can add five knots to a boat’s speed, save on fuel costs and increase the boat’s efficiency.” Tethered by Kevlar lines to a two-foot-high foredeck mast, the kite is inflated before ascending. It soars to 400 feet, where wind is more intense. “The kite provides propulsion, but you steer the boat as you would any vessel,” Köhler explains. “If you intend to cruise for an hour or more, the system makes sense.”

It certainly does to new Silent 60 buyers, all of whom have requested the Wingit kite, translating to 16 sold so far. M.V.

SAILGP: BOB MARTIN, THOMAS LOVELOCK

reinventing a centuries-old sport for today’s attention-challenged viewers may sound like a nonstarter, but Oracle chairman Larry Ellison and his yachtracing guru Sir Russell Coutts figured sailing had been in the doldrums long enough. “One TV producer described racing sailboats as slow white triangles on a blue background that’s impossible to understand,” says Coutts, an Olympic gold medalist, five-time America’s Cup winner and CEO of Oracle’s America’s Cup campaigns. “Larry knew if we couldn’t make it understandable for television, it would never succeed.”

So Coutts and Ellison reimagined the sport for global consumption under SailGP, an action-packed, AR-graphicsrich extreme sport—sailing’s version of Formula 1. Now in its second season, SailGP has eight national teams competing around the globe in 50-foot, highspeed F50 foiling cats. When the series ends on March 27, in San Francisco, the winning team will take home a $1 million purse.

Media-and-sports conglomerate Endeavour, which owns IMG, saw SailGP’s potential and signed on as a minority investor. And so far, so good: Midseason television viewership of the multiplelanguage broadcasts has clocked in at 171 million dedicated and secondary viewers. The season opener in Bermuda had a dedicated audience of 4.9 million, or about half of last year’s World Series average viewership per game. Ellison will underwrite the league for its first five years, but the long-term goal is to have 10 independent franchises (currently priced at $20 million each). Switzerland

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Is This Business Aviation’s Frustrating New Normal?

Clients are paying $5,000 to $25,000 per hour for private jets, and in return they’re getting delays and downgrades.

What gives?

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A

chief executive recently shared an email about a jet charter his company had arranged for important clients. Scheduled for an on-time departure from Austin, the pilots noticed a blinking light in the cockpit and called in the mechanics. Several hours later, the issue was resolved—but the crew, which by then had exceeded FAA-mandated hours for the day, was grounded. Unable to secure a replacement aircraft, the clients didn’t complete the flight to Phoenix until the following day.

The CEO, an experienced private flier, was incensed that such an expensive trip had been delayed because the provider couldn’t find another jet: “One of the most incredible shit shows ever by a charter company,” he wrote.

For an industry that prides itself on clockwork white-glove service, dealing with the massive, Covid-era influx of newcomers from the commercial airlines has been a struggle. “We’re seeing 25 to 40 percent more volume than previous years,” says Michael Silvestro, CEO of Flexjet, a fractional-ownership and jetcard provider. “Our companies are all trying to get supply up to these levels of demand. We’re in the ultimate famine-tofeast moment.”

NetJets, the largest fractional provider, suspended all jet-card sales to ensure it could keep its fractional owners flying on time. “NetJets’ flight demand is currently exceeding all other highs in our 57-year history,” wrote company president Patrick Gallagher, in July, by way of acknowledging that some owners had

I L LU S T R AT I O N B Y R A M I N I E M I

Dream Machines | W I N G S

experienced delays. “The vast number of flights,” he continued, “is taxing the airtravel infrastructure in ways we haven’t seen in years.”

Jay Mesinger, CEO of Mesinger Jet Sales, says he’s even seeing some companies change the terms of service in mid-contract by lengthening the amount of lead time clients must give them, and echoes Gallagher’s sentiments: “We haven’t come to grips with this yet.I think there will be a lot of disappointment.”

Delays and aircraft downgrades are the two main complaints: A scarcity of preowned aircraft for sale, air-traffic-control delays, higher fleet-utilization rates— which means both more maintenance issues and fewer replacement jets—and parts, fuel and labor shortages are all hitting simultaneously, creating a perfect storm of frustration for the private flier.

“Passengers are also scheduling flights in a much shorter window,” says Anthony Tivnan, president of Magellan Jets, which logged a 240 percent year-over-year increase in jet-card sales from January

“We haven’t come to grips with this yet. I think there will be a lot of disappointment.” through August. “Every weekend last summer was comparable to peak periods such as Christmas and July Fourth.”

Tivnan says Magellan is spending “significantly more” on customer outreach in an attempt to educate clients on how to minimize delays: book earlier, avoid flying from Thursday to Sunday and during peak

THE NEW KING

in late august, the Gulfstream G700 took the equivalent of a royal tour when it flew from its Savannah, Georgia, headquarters straight to the Doha hangar of its launch customer, Qatar Executive.

The flagship plane then traveled to Paris to give European clients a preview of the finished product. The G700 set speed records on all three legs, carrying a full payload and with 10 people on board, clocking in at Mach .90 ( just over 690 mph) on the return to Savannah.

“These were our longest flights to date and the first outside the US,” says Scott Evans, Gulfstream’s director of

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The G700’s recent 14,400-mile transatlantic flight set three speed records.

demonstration and corporate flight operations, who piloted the G700.

“Operationally, it was flawless, and the 27.5 hours of flight time gave us the opportunity to maximize our test capabilities.”

Evans has seen the ultra-long-range jet evolve across five previous test aircraft, with this sixth boasting a finished interior.

“We’re not required to build interiors for certification, but it lets us show customers we can provide a mature airplane from serial number one,” Evans says.

Certainly, the delegation in Doha— including Qatar Airways Group executives,

travel periods—in other words, exactly the hoops a coach passenger jumps through to snag a seat on a commercial flight.

And yet despite all the gritted teeth, nobody sees a mass exodus back to commercial. “People are willing to deal with delays to a certain extent and may bounce from company to company,” says Peder von Harten, vice president of sales and marketing for Mississippibased Nicholas Air, who says his company has added four new airplanes and plans to have two more by year’s end. “But they won’t all leave the market.”

Doug Gollan, editor and founder of Private Jet Card Comparisons, puts it more bluntly. Referencing a recent 300-member survey where 100 percent said they would continue to fly privately, he insists that “whatever delays and kinks are out there, these new fliers are not going back to the airlines.” M.V.

media and top clients—were excited to see the gleaming G700 up close. “It will be used as a charter aircraft in our fleet of long-range and ultra-long-range aircraft,” says captain Husam Khalil, vice president of operations for Qatar Executive, adding that its order of 10 G700s will supplement an earlier contract for 14 G650s.

When the G700, with an estimated price of $75 million, enters into service next year, it will mean an air war with Bombardier’s Global 7500, the plane currently sitting at the pinnacle of business aviation. (Dassault has also announced its Falcon 10X, but that ultra-long-range jet won’t enter service until 2025.) “It’s suddenly very competitive at the top,” says aviation-industry analyst Rollie Vincent.

“Gulfstream has made smart choices in the next-gen development of its 650 platform,” he adds, noting the G700’s use of the new Rolls-Royce Pearl engines, larger cabin and Symmetry Flight Deck. He calls the plane “a significant advance.”

Gulfstream’s Evans highlighted the flight deck’s performance, courtesy of its 10 touchscreen monitors, advanced heads-up displays (like those found on fighter jets) and sidestick controls. “It’s a holistic design that drives simplicity, ease of operation and situational awareness,” he says. “That interplay of features is the biggest thing we accomplished in the cockpit.”

With the largest-in-class interior and features such as circadian lighting, 20 large windows and a rear bedroom suite, it’s safe to say the G700 now rules the private aviation realm—until 2025, at least. M.V.

Nothing compares.

NASSAU, BAHAMAS

SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA

SCOTTSDALE, ARIZONA

6P Caves Point Penthouse

21376 North 110th Place

7311 East Arroyo Hondo Road

$1,750,000 | SIRbahamas.com/id/45267

$14,000,000 | SothebysRealty.com/id/6FWL4J

$5,500,000 | SothebysRealty.com/id/B8K8PD

Damianos Sotheby's International Realty CRAIG PINDER

Russ Lyon Sotheby's International Realty FRANK AAZAMI

Russ Lyon Sotheby's International Realty FRANK AAZAMI

craig.pinder@sirbahamas.com

frank.aazami@sir.com

frank.aazami@sir.com

+1 242.457.2282

+1 480.266.0240

+1 480.266.0240

LOS ALTOS HILLS, CALIFORNIA

CORNWALL, CONNECTICUT

NEW YORK, NEW YORK

25355 La Loma Drive

VillaCatarinaCT.com

TheLucida11A.com

$24,950,000 | SothebysRealty.com/id/8KNZHF

$10,000,000

$8,950,000

Golden Gate Sotheby's International Realty GARY CAMPI | CAMPI GROUP

Greenwich Brokerage JOSEPH BARBIERI

East Side Manhattan Brokerage JEANNE H. BUCKNAM | AMANDA FIELD JORDAN

gary@campi.com

joseph.barbieri@sothebys.realty

+1 650.799.1855

+1 203.940.2025

jeanne.bucknam@sothebys.realty

© 2021 Sotheby’s International Realty. All Rights Reserved. The Sotheby’s International Realty trademark is licensed and used with permission. Each Sotheby’s International Realty office is independently owned and operated, except those operated by Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. The Sotheby’s International Realty network fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. All offerings are subject to errors, omissions, changes including price or withdrawal without notice.

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5/18/21 7:30 PM

TECH

The (Not Quite) $100K DIY HI-FI How to assemble an uncompromising—but still relatively uncomplicated— audio system for less than an S-Class.

A

sk any number of opinionated audiophiles (as if there’s any other kind) where to start when assembling a great audio system and you’ll be pointed in as many different directions.

Some think everything depends foremost on the speakers; others insist that without an impeccable source, whether analog or digital, nothing downstream will sound quite right. A third faction believes only outstanding electronics can set the stage for success.

And they’re all correct: Truly outstanding music reproduction doesn’t start or end anywhere, it’s about achieving more than the sum of your parts.

Which means the real trick is selecting components that complement one another. And while it’s possible to spend nearly unlimited sums on a system, the following arrangement will deliver sonic nirvana for under six figures. Robert Ross

$20,000 Turntable NAIM SOLSTICE SPECIAL EDITION

The 56-pound Naim Solstice Special Edition, the first turntable from the storied English manufacturer, is an ambitious dive into the high-end analog pool. With a limited run of 500 units priced at $20,000 each, the belt-drive table has an outboard power supply to maintain perfect speed stability and comes fitted with Naim’s Aro tonearm plus an Equinox moving-coil cartridge.

Great vinyl playback offers a transformative listening experience, and the included Solstice phono stage, optimized to preserve Naim’s refined sound, sends the cartridge’s delicate low-level signal directly to the preamplifier, eliminating the need for one with a built-in phono section.

Integrated Amplifier DAN D’AGOSTINO PROGRESSION INTEGRATED

the Progression Integrated from Dan D’Agostino Master Audio Systems combines a versatile line stage, capable of revealing the most subtle nuances of source signals, and a powerhouse amp making a formidable 200 watts-perchannel into 8 ohms—just the ticket for hungry, full-range speakers whose woofers move a lot of air, like the 801 D4 Diamonds here. Additional options include a $2,000 phono section and a $5,000 Digital Streaming Module that, taken together, make this one of the most well-equipped and robust integrated command centers available.

Loudspeakers BOWERS & WILKINS 801 D4 DIAMOND

In the battle for loudspeaker domination, the 801 D4

Housing a preamplifier and a stereo amplifier in a single chassis, an integrated amplifier removes the cost and complexity of additional interconnects and power cords. Priced at $20,000,

$20,000 98

NOVEMBER 2021

$35,000

Diamond is the latest salvo from Bowers & Wilkins. Now in its seventh generation, the 800 Series has been a fixture in recording studios such as Abbey Road and Skywalker Sound and is arguably the world’s most celebrated monitor. At $35,000 per pair, the roughly 222-pound speakers feature diamond-deposit tweeter domes and come with separate high-mass enclosures—for bass, midrange and high-frequency drivers—designed to eliminate resonances that color sound, all presented in an elegant, sculptural package.

Speaker Cables AUDIOQUEST THUNDERBIRD ZERO

$5,700

Speaker cables shouldn’t be an afterthought—they’re a critical link in the sound chain.

At $5,700 for a 10-foot pair, the AudioQuest ThunderBird Zeros pass the Progression Integrated amp’s output to the B&W speakers without missing a beat, from whispered details to the most ferocious bass fundamentals.

P R O M O T I O N

in focus

POLIFORM

poliform.com

Lexington is a new system designed by Jean-Marie Massaud in collaboration with Poliform: thanks to its flexibility in terms of dimensions, functions, and finishes, it can be used as a bookcase or walk-in closet. Available in both wall and ceiling configurations. TOP LEFT

JUST JULES

justjules.com

This exciting new collection from Just Jules features Julie’s love for gemstones. Set simply, the pieces highlight the beauty of each stone. The gems are sourced globally with full homage to Mother Nature.

TOP RIGHT

BERMUDA

gotobermuda.com

Bermuda offers tantalizing choices for varied itineraries: For history, explore the World Heritage Site of the Town of St. George, founded in the 17th century. Then tee off at one of golf courses on the East End of the island before rejuvenating at a luxe spa. Finally, head to the capital, The City of Hamilton, for shopping, fine dining and lively nightlife. BOTTOM LEFT

MILLESIMA FINE WINE

millesima-usa.com

Millesima has unveiled its new Wine Gift Shop, lending wine lovers access to rare fine wines, including unique Large Formats, legendary Bordeaux First Growths and exclusive limited edition bottles. The perfect place for memorable gift ideas for your loved ones. BOTTOM RIGHT

Field Notes

BY PAIGE REDDINGER

One for All WATCHES

The sexiest watches are, by nature, sexless.

Illustration by CELYN

R O B B R E P O R T. C O M

101

Field Notes

T

hese days, there’s no point in asking whether a watch is intended for ladies or gents— the answer, whether the watchmaker likes it or not, is “yes.” Fashion and jewelry are having big unisex moments, with men rocking pearl necklaces, pussy-bow blouses and platform heels even as designers, from Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière to Maison Margiela’s John Galliano, are cutting strong, broad-shouldered suits for anyone, male or female, who wants to wear them. And now the watch industry is catching up to its peers— and its clients. Perhaps noticing, as we have, that chic women are sporting everything from a massive Rolex to an F. P. Journe Souverain while many stylish men are discovering a penchant for smaller cases or diamond accents, watchmakers have begun branding models unisex or are avoiding labeling them at all.

Interestingly, the same trend holds true for the most coveted and collectible vintage timepieces, though not because heritage brands were somehow unsung pioneers of gender fluidity—or at least, not purposefully.

Classics become classics for a reason: because the design is as universally stylish as a fine cashmere sweater and can likewise be worn snug or oversized based on nothing more than personal preference. Today’s iconic models—Patek Philippe’s Nautilus, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques American 1921 and Cartier’s Tank, for example—are as distinct in mid-30 mm form as they are in the 40s, with diamonds or without. And while each started life as a men’s watch, when the manufacturers began creating versions for women, they did so simply by shrinking the size instead of introducing clichés such as pastels, florals or froufrou rococo dials.

Consider a modern, 35.2 mm Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 7118/1A, ostensibly for women. It isn’t far removed from its 40.5 mm moon-phase cousin, Ref. 5726/1A, and both look remarkably similar to the 42 mm original from 1976. Place any one of them on any wrist and it exudes the same good taste, but the specific message will vary slightly based on the size: A hefty watch on a woman, like an undersized watch on a man, has become a sign of quiet confidence.

But for a style to transcend gender, it seems clear it first needs to stand the test of time— bold designs especially. Watchmakers are forced to chase trends just like any fashionconscious designer, though they’ll never admit to it, which means you need take the chorus of “instant classic” and “modern icon” claims with a grain of salt. How will those models fare, for example, compared with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s

102

NOVEMBER 2021

Reverso, celebrating its 90th anniversary this year, which has changed very little in the past century? At its inception in the Roaring ’20s, the Reverso was a fancifully practical, face-flipping sports watch, but in today’s more dressed-down era, it’s considered an Art Deco–inflected dress model appropriate even for eveningwear. The style never really changed—society did. With that kind of staying power, what difference could a minor detail like gender make?

Of course, plenty of currently buzzy—and unisex—watch trends are about to appear tragically dated (looking at you, brightly colored ceramic cases) but there are a few new designs that have the potential to remain in demand for the long haul by buyers of both sexes: Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo, a large, ultralight and ultramodern beauty; Piaget’s razor-thin Altiplano, so slim it can fit in your wallet’s credit card holder; and the Hermès Arceau L’Heure de la Lune Moonphase, a wildly cool interpretation of a centuries-old complication. Retailers say these models are flying off shelves and into vaults belonging to people of every gender.

If nothing else, think of a model’s unisex potential as a bellwether of return on investment. A Cartier Crash, recently seen

For a style to transcend gender, it seems clear it first needs to stand the test of time— bold designs especially. looking both surprisingly outré on rapper Kanye West and expectedly elegant on New York socialite and entrepreneur Lauren Santo Domingo, is a prime example: Last year, an 18-karat yellow-gold London version sold online at Sotheby’s for $225,000, well over double its top estimate of $90,000, and dealers say it’s nearly impossible to come by now.

The latest green-dial Nautilus, Ref. 5711/1A, released in April, is already selling on the secondary market for roughly $360,000—more than 10 times its original retail price of $34,893.

It’s an unusual but important lesson for watchmakers with strong brand DNA: The best way to keep pace with today’s fastmorphing cultural landscape is to not change much at all.

Paige Reddinger is Robb Report’s watch and jewelry editor. She resides in Brooklyn and just purchased a new watch for her husband for their wedding, which she fully intends to wear.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF BENETTI

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YACHTING LIFESTYLE THE FREEDOM TO E XPLORE AND TR AVEL THE WORLD

has always been an allure of the yachting lifestyle. And the challenges of the last two years have only magnified our need for space, tranquility, privacy and time with family and friends.

It’s no surprise then that yachts in every category and size have been in high demand. Marine industry experts can help you understand how to best fulfill your oceangoing aspirations. And there are other ways to experience the freedom of the sea, including expedition vessels and cruises offering luxe voyages to destinations beyond the reach of larger commercial vessels or smaller boats. Now’s the time to begin.

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BERMUDA’S GREAT SOUND

BERMUDA YACHTING

| GOTOBERMUDA.COM

A PERFECT DESTINATION FOR SUPERYACHTS

allows transit, cruising and charter permits along with no passenger

On land and on the water, Bermuda’s allure is boundless—and her

duty free. And, of course, mild weather and climate make Bermuda

appeal is catching the eye of more and more superyacht captains

head tax; import equipment, furnishings, fittings and parts are also a great place to visit year-round.

and owners. Given the island’s 75 miles of dramatic coastline and

Bermuda is a place where understated sophistication, breathtaking

dozens of beaches and secluded coves, that’s hardly a surprise.

natural beauty and vibrant culture blend seamlessly for an

And with the new superyacht legislation enacted last year, the island

unforgettable experience. Famous beaches beckon travelers with pink

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sand and turquoise waters. Natural wonders

services, technical assistance and unique

like Crystal Caves, Spittal Pond and shallow,

amenities like deliveries of local produce and

colorful reefs invite exploration. Tennis and golf

fresh seafood or reservations for restaurants

lovers will find no shortage of places to play,

and spa treatments.

or high-caliber sporting events to attend. An ever-evolving food scene melds flavors from a variety of cultures into sumptuous dishes.

Of particular interest to yachties, Bermuda is home to a wealth of world-class marinas and berthing facilities located across the island, some of which are tied to hotel properties

“Bermuda has long been a top destination for sailing and luxury, with ideal weather conditions, gorgeous turquoise waters, major sailing events and a community with a deep and diverse sailing heritage,” says Douglas Trueblood, chief sales and marketing officer for the Bermuda Tourism Authority.

like the Hamilton Princess & Beach Club.

All this and more make Bermuda an unparalleled

The island also offers concierge-style yacht

destination for superyachts.

PLAN YOUR ITINERARY ISLAND EXPERIENCES

BEACH BLISS | Horseshoe Bay and Elbow Beach are the most popular, but there are dozens of others.

OUTDOOR ADVENTURES | Follow the 18-mile trail in the Bermuda Railway Trail National Park.

MIND & BODY | Recharge your batteries, both mentally and physically.

TEE IT UP

CULINARY EXPERIENCES | Hire a personal chef to create a dining experience onboard your yacht.

CULTURE & HERITAGE | Explore the island’s history in churches, gardens, forts and museums.

GOLF & TENNIS | Numerous courses, top-notch facilities and a temperate climate make Bermuda the ideal location to hit a few golf or tennis balls.

SHOPPING | Stylish apparel, one-of-a-kind finds and made-inBermuda keepsakes await you.

ADVANTAGE: BERMUDA

AQUATIC PURSUITS | From cliff-jumping and kitesurfing to kayaking and fishing, there’s an aquatic adventure for you.

| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

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AZIMUT YACHTS Azimut Yachts enters the world of triple-deckers with a revolutionary model, the 125-foot Grande Trideck—three decks plus one. The “plus one” denotes a large area at the stern that complements the three traditional decks above it: The Sea View Terrace is a floating aft deck of 325 square feet that feels suspended over the water.

The perfect yacht for the contemporary owner who aims for conviviality while remaining in constant contact with the

| AZIMUTYACHTS.COM

marine environment, the new Grande Trideck is the epitome of flexibility. Its staggered decks are designed to offer an unprecedented interpretation of the varied environments aboard the yacht, including new spaces. In fact, the Grande Trideck’s revolutionary layout—both indoors and out— creates new spaces that are more congenial to what owners today are seeking: a less formal lifestyle onboard combined with a much closer connection to the sea.

AZIMUT GRANDE TRIDECK - MAIN SALON

CASA DE CAMPO At the east end of the Dominican Republic, Casa de Campo is a wide-ranging resort known for golf, polo and luxe accommodations. At the Mediterranean-inspired, full-service marina, boaters will find a vibrant community geared toward sport fishermen and other water enthusiasts, as well as those seeking land-oriented adventures.

CASA DE CAMPO CASADECAMPO.COM.DO

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| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

The very quintessence of innovation, Azimut Grande Trideck features a new living area, never seen before on a yacht this size: the Sea View Terrace. As the latest addition to the traditional triple-decker, the Sea View Terrace is an aft raised “mezzanine” deck.

Thanks to this layout innovation, Grande Trideck offers four terraces, completing a visual effect of cascading terraces from the Sundeck down to the sea.

AZIMUT YACHTS OFFICIAL DEALERS USA East Coast & Midwest: MarineMax - www.marinemax.com USA West Coast: Alexander Marine USA - www.alexandermarineusa.com

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BENETTI

| BENETTIYACHTS.IT

Responding to the superyacht owners who asked for long stays on board in close contact with the sea, Benetti has created the Oasis Deck™ with a unique combination of five key features that define the next generation of yachts. First launched to great acclaim was the Oasis 40M’s Oasis Deck™, which is now featured on new models of the Oasis 34M and B.Now 50M and 66M, confirming Benetti’s role as a pioneer and design leader.

Recognizing a growing trend among superyacht owners who desire a less formal, more social and marine-based lifestyle, Benetti aimed for something that could go beyond the traditional beach areas.

RWD realized Benetti’s vision and took it further: The Oasis 40M introduced a revolutionary combination of five aft-deck features, all so distinctive that the terms “beach club” and “beach area” no longer apply.

SIGNATURE OASIS DECK™ AS SEEN ON OASIS 40M

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THE FIVE DEFINITIVE FEATURES OF THE OASIS DECK INCLUDE: TM

•

Opening wings that extend the deck close to the water but safe from waves

•

A magnificent pool integrated into a flush deck

•

An unobstructed 270-degree view off the stern, even from the salon

•

A mixture of sun and shade that allows guests to enjoy the deck at any time of day

•

A social design that transforms the entire deck into a vast convivial oasis

Benetti returned to collaborate with RWD on the OASIS 34M to create a smaller Oasis Deck™ with a completely different engineering package that still offers the same core elements as well as a youthful interior designed by the Bonetti/Kozerski firm. In addition, Benetti offers the B.Now 50M with an Oasis Deck™ and new features such as a large shaded American style bar and a wellness area on the lower deck, which can provide storage for equipment like dive racks and kayaks.

A REVOLUTIONARY COMBINATION OF FIVE AFT-DECK FEATURES, ALL SO DISTINCTIVE THAT THE TERMS “BEACH CLUB” AND “BEACH AREA” NO LONGER APPLY. The Oasis Deck™ has also been adapted into the new B.NOW 66M Oasis, the flagship of the Oasis family. Onboard you’ll encounter the ultimate expression of Oasis life: a huge swimming pool, extensive fixed sun pads, social seating, an upper terrace and exterior dining and a bar, along with the main saloon with a cocktail bar.

Azimut Benetti Group CEO Marco Valle notes, “The secret to our success is anticipating trends and interpreting hidden desires, while finding the perfect partners for production and design, forging collaborations that go the distance.”

ABOVE AND BELOW: BENETTI OASIS 40M

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| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

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CRN | CRN-YACHT.COM

An excellent example of quality in design and construction, Voice is the latest steel-andaluminum work of art by CRN, the Ancona, Italy–based shipyard. This new 203 -foot megayacht was developed in collaboration with Nuvolari Lenard, which designed the interior and exterior.

Created for an owner who wants a yacht that reflects a strong personality, Voice is a highly distinctive vessel that imparts a dynamic, sporty impression. Its luminous interiors are superbly balanced with grand indoor spaces.

Voice also stands out for its high level of bespoke innovation. The yacht is technologically advanced, meticulously soundproofed and ex tremely comfortable. Attention to sustainability was pivotal in Voice’s creation: This true custom yacht is fully automated and has IMO Tier III certification, which guarantees a 70-percent reduction of harmful emissions of nitrogen oxides (NOx).

With five decks, a master suite and five VIP cabins, Voice accommodates 12 guests in exquisite comfort.

CRN VOICE

ST. KITTS With marinas at Port Zante at Basseterre and Christophe Harbour on the Southeast Peninsula, St. Kitts offers welcoming, wide-ranging and state-of-theart facilities for yachters, but there are also coves, inlets and bays that provide tranquil and secluded moorings.

ST. KITTS STKITTSTOURISM.KN

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| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

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OCEANCO

| BUILTBYOCEANCO.COM

With the NXT chapter, Oceanco is committing itself to biophilic design. Oceanco NXT is a collaborative initiative set to create new benchmarks aiming to achieve zero impact on the environment while developing exciting yachts for future generations. Daring to make a difference, interior design agency TANK, which is respected for its unconventional approach to conventional spaces, is working with ambitious clients on an approach that rethinks contemporary oceangoing life. Together, they designed something that hasn’t been seen before.

Growing evidence suggests that the integration of natural elements into design triggers a strong positive impact on our health and well-being. Inspired by nature, TANK has therefore incorporated natural elements, such as material derived from the ocean, into its interiors. The goal is to design a space that reflects how lifestyles are evolving today, allowing those onboard to live better with less impact on the environment.

This innovative result is called biophilic design.

OCEANCO NXT

ANGUILLA From sunrise to sunset, Anguilla has a wealth of tempting mooring spots for yachters. Early risers might head for Junks Hole or Windward Point.

Those seeking a spectacular backdrop for their end-of-day cocktails will enjoy Meads Bay or the lively Rendezvous Bay. Or you can have friends meet you on shore at Long Bay Villas, where a personal butler and concierge await.

ANGUILLA

IVISITANGUILLA.COM

| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

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Oceanco NXT represents our commitment to challenge the status quo and find answers to emerging demands where the future is zero.

There is no shortcut.

New benchmarks are set through collaborations with free thinkers from a wide array of industries.

Join us on our journey of co-creating the most exciting yachts we can, both with and for future generations.

Like-minded? Reach out to us via our website.

Through Oceanco NXT, tomorrow starts today.

THE FUTURE IS NOW OCEANCONXT.COM

| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

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PONANT

| PONANT.COM

For more than 30 years, Ponant has been taking intrepid travelers on awe-inspiring voyages to some of the most fascinating places in the world. The Antarctic waters of the Bellingshausen Sea, the geographic North Pole, Papua New Guinea—these are destinations straight out of a nature documentary. Take Zodiac landing craft wherever you roam, to islands teeming with terns and coasts massed with exotic penguins, always with expert naturalists at the helm. And then return each day to a well-appointed home aboard a

Ponant ship. Each affords a five-star experience, with elegant contemporary design, fine cuisine, attentive service and luxury accommodations. Ponant ships are meant for getting up close to rainforests, unpopulated islands and other distant places that few people see. There is simply no more perfect blend of luxury and cutting-edge ship technology available, bringing the ultimate in comfort and refinement to the world’s most extreme corners.

GOLD HARBOUR, SOUTH GEORGIA

ST. LUCIA Perennially a major event for international boaters, the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers traditionally ends in St. Lucia. Yachts will weigh anchor in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria, in early November and be welcomed— with rum punch, fresh fruit and chilled beer—in Rodney Bay’s lively anchorage in mid-December. Of course, viewing the Pitons by sea is a must.

ST. LUCIA

STLUCIA.ORG

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| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

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SANLORENZO Sanlorenzo SX112 represents a new way of living on the sea.

The SX112 is the latest innovation in the line that combines the classic motor yacht with a flybridge—a design that Sanlorenzo is world renowned for—and the SX explorer range, intelligently blending style, flexibility and functionality. On board the barriers vanish and the boat opens to the outside, establishing a close relationship with the marine environment.

The focal point of the SX112 is the new stern zone, undoubtedly

| SANLORENZOYACHT.COM the most iconic space on the yacht. A spacious beach area of about 90 square meters (969 square feet) is expandable thanks to folding terraces and includes a fitness area that’s directly connected to the outside by means of large sliding glass doors, permitting owners and guests to utilize the space in an unprecedented way.

With its emphasis on livability, the SX112 epitomizes the best in creativity and craftsmanship.

SANLORENZO SX112

THE CAYMAN ISLANDS The four superb marinas on Grand Cayman are proof enough of Cayman’s appeal to yachters, but that doesn’t even begin to describe its 365 world-class dive sites, the spectacular boating to be found in the North Sound or luxury lifestyle attractions of the Seven Mile Beach corridor.

THE CAYMAN ISLANDS

VISITCAYMANISLANDS.COM

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| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

| YACHTING LIFESTYLE

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SUNREEF

| SUNREEF-YACHTS.COM

Comfort blends with concern for the environment in the Eco line from Sunreef Yachts. Available in power or sailing versions, fully electric or hybrid, these yachts are the world’s most sustainable luxury catamarans. Designed for the future of green yachting with looks to match, the innovative line extends a holistic approach to eco cruising. Sleek exteriors are not only striking—with nearly every inch covered in a proprietary solar skin—but also purposeful; they contribute to maximum energy efficiency in combination with wind and

hydro power. Optimized by innovative green solutions found nowhere else, the vessels deliver a silent and supremely comfortable cruising experience unbound by range limits.

Boasting best-in-class space and fully customizable with ethically sourced sustainable finishes and furnishings, the line meets the demands of the most sophisticated eco-conscious customers. Its most recent commission was for a 60 Sunreef Power Eco from two-time Formula 1 champion Fernando Alonso. Luxury, expansive space and green yachting.

80 SUNREEF POWER KOKOMO

TURKS & CAICOS For yachters, Providenciales, the most known island of the Turks & Caicos, offers seemingly unending beaches along with hotels, fine dining, and land and sea adventures. Grand Turk is the historic capital; North, South and Middle Caicos are quieter sister islands, along with off-the-beaten-track Salt Cay.

TURKS & CAICOS

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BESPOKE LUXURY CATAMARANS

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THE WORLD Where do you live? Very few can say “everywhere on Earth” and mean it. But for those who own a home on The World, the renowned private residential yacht, that’s a genuine answer. Because if you’re par t of this community of international adventurers traversing the globe, you awake to new vistas every day. It’s a lifestyle that is as unique as it is luxurious.

The World’s annual itineraries are collectively determined by the residents and encompass serene islands, colorful cities,

| ABOARDTHEWORLD.COM diverse cultures, historic sites and extreme wildernesses.

The 2022 itinerary includes ports in the captivating Hawaiian and Pacific Islands, South America, Northern and Western Europe, the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East, and marks the New Year in Dubai.

While the scenery never stays the same, your sense of place is anchored in your own residence aboard the yacht. It is both a sanctuary and a springboard to incomparable, lifeaffirming adventures.

THE WORLD AND ITS RESIDENTS SAIL INTO VILLEFRANCHE-SUR-MER, FRANCE

NASSAU PARADISE ISLAND Of the 700 islands and cays of the Bahamas, Nassau and Paradise Island offer multiple marinas and sophisticated onshore attractions. For example, fabled Graycliff delights guests with its restaurant, hotel, winery, culinary academy and cigar rolling experience, just opened a waterside rooftop Sky Lounge featuring a Louis XIII VIP room. Unexpected indulgences await, time to revisit.

GRAYCLIFF SKYBAR LOUNGE

GRAYCLIFF.COM | NASSAUPARADISEISLAND.COM

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WHEN THEY ASK WHERE YOU’RE FROM. THE WORLD Each day aboard The World, you awaken in the most remarkable home you will ever own. As one of the few international adventurers who live this incomparable lifestyle, you explore each continent and sail every sea surrounded by unrivaled anticipatory luxury service on the planet’s largest private residential yacht.

Learn more about ownership opportunities. aboardtheworld.com | +1 954 538 8449

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VISIT LAUDERDALE Welcome to the “Yachting Capital of the World,” where more than 300 miles of scenic waterways and 24 miles of Atlantic coastline make up a shimmering playground for cruising, sailing, scuba diving, snorkeling, fishing and other water sports. Fascinating discoveries also await onshore in 31 diverse communities, home to celebrated hotel brands and cosmopolitan dining and nightlife. Captains, cruisers and cocktail connoisseurs are invited to join the party beachside, dockside or downtown, where they’ll find interesting

| VISITLAUDERDALE.COM/WELCOME

venues from rooftop bars and hidden speakeasies to the lively sidewalks of Las Olas Boulevard. Dine on culinary sensations from award-winning chefs, indulge in luxurious spa treatments, relax in private poolside cabanas, see the breathtaking wildlife of the Everglades or simply find your place in the sun on a gorgeous beach or boat deck. Life is as good as it gets in Greater Fort Lauderdale, and everyone under the sun is welcome.

FORT LAUDERDALE SCENIC WATERWAYS

BERMUDA The pink-sand beaches and tranquil coves of Bermuda are a storied destination for boaters. Now recently eased restrictions mean the island’s turquoise waters are even more inviting to luxe superyachts, which may relish the excitement provided by the Clipper Round the World Race at the end of December. Summer is equally appealing—this is a chic getaway without traffic.

BERMUDA GOTOBERMUDA.COM

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Welcome TO WHATEVER FLOATS YOUR YACHT

24 miles of coastline. 300 miles of waterways. And too many temptations to count.

Come see what’s new in Florida’s shimmering playground, from world-renowned hotels to cosmopolitan dining and nightlife. Plan your adventure at VisitLauderdale.com/Welcome.

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PHOTO COURTESY OF SANLORENZO

The yachting lifestyle embraces a world of possibilities: Work with a chosen shipyard and their design team to build your dream yacht, charter to contemplate options and destinations, cruise via private vessel that ventures to unique hard to reach locations, or own a home on board a residential yacht and go around the world. You can even run a business virtually as you travel the seas, savoring the sun and sea air. Explore fabled islands with lively cultures and cuisines or simply savor private time away from clamor and distractions. This is the moment to rechart your future with the freedom of the seas.

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS The fall heralds the long-anticipated revitalization of the British Virgin Islands. At White Oleander Destinations’ luxe villas you’ll enjoy great views and lush surroundings while they bring your special celebrations, events, and excursions to fruition. Other favorites await you as well, including iconic Saba Rock, a private island escape; the historic Bitter End Yacht Club, and Oil Nut Bay marina village.

BRITISH VIRGIN ISLANDS

BVITOURISM.COM | WHITEOLEANDERDESTINATIONS.COM

FORT LAUDERDALE With a wealth of marinas and myriad choices of dockside dining, Fort Lauderdale is the marine capital of the United States. The annual Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, the largest in-water boat show in the world, showcases vessels that range from tenders to breathtaking superyachts.

FORT LAUDERDALE

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PUERTO RICO Puerto Rico’s hundreds of miles of coastline, plentiful marinas and varied attractions are always inviting. This year, boaters will also enjoy the festivities celebrating Old San Juan’s 500th birthday, which will culminate with the Old San Juan Regatta in June 2022—a don’t-miss occasion in this picturesque port.

PUERTO RICO DISCOVERPUERTORICO.COM

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MARINEMAX YACHTS | MARINEMAXYACHTS.COM MarineMax provides assistance in finding the yacht of your dreams, so you can savor moments on the water with family and friends. The team of industry veterans will make the search a pleasurable experience. Visit their website to create and customize your favorite yachts.

AZIMUT GRANDE TRIDECK The very essence of innovation, Azimut Yachts’ first-ever Trideck defies the accepted norms of boat design to create extraordinary spaces that redefine the concept of onboard living. Featuring a new living area, the Sea View Terrace, never seen before on a yacht this size. This aft-raised “mezzanine” deck is the latest addition to the traditional triple-decker.

OCEAN ALEXANDER 35R Debuting at the 2021 Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show, the Ocean Alexander 35R motor yacht is the culmination of the renowned Revolution series designed by Evan Marshall and Arrabito Naval Architects. With unwavering safety, luxurious spaces and breathtaking views, this is an engineering masterpiece that glides into a slip with ease.

GALEON 800 FLY A veritable island unto itself, the Galeon 800 FLY is the culmination of worldfamous and award-winning naval architect Tony Castro’s brilliant design, paired with Galeon’s extensive, fourth-generation yacht-manufacturing experience. The subtle design expressed in soft lines and rounded structural elements, in addition to advanced navigation electronics and the latest technologies, ensure the safety and luxurious comfort of all passengers.

Experience the

SA FAR I ADV E N T U R E O F A L I F E T I M E In collaboration with January 18-22, 2022 | Xigera, Botswana

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in focus

WATFORD GROUP

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The Watford Group is synonymous with trust, craftsmanship and beauty. Their story is of a unique heritage, artisanal craftsmanship and homes intended to be passed down across generations.

Reserve your place in their newest bespoke community nestled in Toronto. TOP LEFT

PATRICIA ROBALINO

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The world of Patricia Robalino is synonymous with creativity, luxury and color. From her Worth Avenue boutique in Palm Beach, Florida, Patricia marks her 29th year infusing her unique and original pieces with color, light and unparalleled craftsmanship. TOP RIGHT

INTERNATIONAL SUPERYACHT SOCIETY

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The International Superyacht Society celebrates 30 years of design and leadership representing the superyacht community worldwide. Advocating innovation and technology, they say, “Dream to build your own vessel” with the best designers and builders in the Industry. BOTTOM LEFT

SCAVOLINI

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The teamwork between Scavolini and the designer Vittore Niolu has resulted in the new Formalia collection, the kitchen and living room range, which also includes bathroom solutions, where the encounter between linearity and graphic design find their utmost expression. BOTTOM RIGHT

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Running Hed

P H OT O G R A P H Y BY

P E T E R RO SA WAT C H E D I T O R

PA I G E R E D D I N G E R S T Y L E D BY

A L E X BA D I A

&

The old rules about how and when to wear timepieces are—finally—gone.

Embrace the freedom and wear them your way.

Here are some suggestions.

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Cartier Tank Louis Cartier in 18-karat yellow gold, $13,800; Herno eco-nylon vest, $700; Celine by Hedi Slimane cotton hoodie, $790; Z Zegna cotton pants, $495.

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Watch & Learn

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ABOVE:

Louis Vuitton Voyager Flying Tourbillon in 18-karat white gold, $89,000; Thom Browne cotton T-shirt, $520, hoodie, $780, and sweatpants, $640.

LEFT:

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chrono GMT in titanium, $18,000; Amiri leather sneakers, $650.

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Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Blue in Sedna gold, $25,200; Officine Générale wool flannel jacket, $730, and cotton-denim shirt, $315.

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Watch & Learn

ABOVE:

Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5327G in 18-karat white gold, $85,052; Boglioli wool flannel jacket, $1,525, and camel-hair blend sweater, $775.

LEFT:

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona with meteorite dial in 18-karat white gold, $34,050; J. Press cotton shirt, $135.

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in 18-karat pink gold, $83,000; Belstaff suede jacket, $1,695; Brunello Cucinelli alpaca-and-yak sweater, $1,895.

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Watch & Learn

LEFT:

BELOW:

Grand Seiko

Zenith

US Limited Edition SBGW275 in stainless steel, $4,900; Sid Mashburn cotton-denim jeans, $150; Brunello Cucinelli suede boots, $1,195.

Chronomaster Original E-commerce Edition in stainless steel, $8,400; Paul Smith lambskin shearling jacket, $3,195.

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LEFT:

Hermès H08 in graphene composite, $8,900; Ralph Lauren cotton-poplin shirt, $650, silk vest, $995, and cashmere-and-wool trousers, $895; Scully & Scully onyx-and-sterlingsilver cuff links, $365.

BELOW:

Ulysse Nardin Lemon Shark in DLC-coated stainless steel, limited to 300, $7,300; J. Mueser wool-andsilk tuxedo, $2,750.

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Running Hed

Bell & Ross BR 05 GMT in stainless steel, $4,900; Ralph Lauren cotton-velvet jacket, $2,495, cottonpoplin shirt, $650, and silk bow tie, $175; Scully & Scully onyx-and-sterlingsilver studs, $475.

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Watch & Learn

Breguet Tradition 7097 in 18-karat rose gold, price upon request; Celine by Hedi Slimane wool-and-cotton trench coat, $3,250; Dior Men wool-and-mohair sweater, $2,700.

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ABOVE:

IWC Big Pilot Top Gun Edition “Mojave Desert” in ceramic, $14,800; Tod’s wool sweater, $745.

LEFT:

Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 in 18-karat white gold, $36,800; Sid Mashburn cotton-corduroy jacket, $295; Rhude cotton-andcashmere sweater, $1,290; Tod’s wool trousers, $845.

STYLE EDITOR:

Kareem Rashed MEN’S FASHION MARKET:

Luis Campuzano

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GUT TER CREDITS ELSA PERET TI: THE CONDÉ NAST PUBLICATIONS/ W WD ARCHIVE; CIPULLO AND PERET TI JEWELRY: W WD ARCHIVE

CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: Jewelry designer Elsa Peretti in her silver snake chain belt and split bone cuff bracelet, 1973; Bulgari gold sautoir with yellow and blue sapphires, agate, citrines and diamonds, circa 1972; Crystal Stairs bracelet and a pair of earrings from Aldo Cipullo for Cartier; a stack of Peretti bracelets; Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas gold watch, 1974.

That '70s Showstopper Chunky bangles, giant pendants and attitude everywhere: Today’s hottest, hippest pieces come courtesy of the Me Decade.

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By TANYA DUKES Illustrations by JACKIE PARSONS

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The list of regrettable fashion statements from the 1970s is legion—leisure suits and ankle-breaking platform shoes spring to mind—but the era’s jewelry is a different story. Sculptural and dramatic, at times whimsical or Pop Art–inflected, the designs are now getting a favorable second look.

The reasons for the Me Decade’s ascent are plentiful. While the antique diamonds of European royals or top Art Deco finery may grab headlines for their glittery provenances and the multimillion-dollar prices they command, the exuberance and (relative) accessibility of pieces created 40 or 50 years ago make them appealing targets for nascent collectors. They’re also a heck of a lot easier to work into an everyday wardrobe than a rivière or a tiara.

Then there’s the zeitgeist, which seems to be on the side of the 1970s. Recent releases of phone book-sized tomes on leading jewelry designers of the period, including Aldo Cipullo and Andrew Grima, have landed on coffee tables this past year. And awareness of Elsa Peretti—famed for her long collaboration with Tiffany & Co., beginning in 1974—got a pop-culture push from the Netflix series Halston, which started streaming just months after she died in March. (Peretti was the fashion designer’s friend and muse.) A current exhibition at the Cincinnati Art Museum, Simply Brilliant: Artist-Jewelers of the 1960s and 1970s, which features famous names (Boucheron, Cartier, Bulgari) alongside smaller-scale makers, is further evidence of the resurgent interest.

The jewels of the ’70s marked a profound departure from those that came before, according to Catharine Becket, head of the magnificent jewels sales at Sotheby’s. “In the ’60s there was more emphasis on precious stones, the big three—ruby, emerald, sapphire—but from the late ’60s through the ’70s, there was more exploration of what is referred to as semiprecious stones—amethyst, tourmaline, geodes,” she explains. Instead of pieces with a high-society formality, jewelry began to feature “yellow gold, old forms, abstraction, texture and a very ‘groovy’ aesthetic,” she adds. “We’ve been doing very well with that period.”

Sotheby’s April auction of the collection of the late businesswoman and philanthropist Michelle Smith included a series of 1970s jewels that incited competitive bidding, especially for Van Cleef & Arpels lots from the period. A gold, cultured-pearl and diamond sautoir from the house sold for $252,000, more than five times its high estimate; a pair of hoop earrings from

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the same maker outstripped its estimate by an equally impressive multiple, realizing $27,720. “The prices were extraordinary,” says Becket. “It speaks specifically to the strength of that period. People are passionate about this field. A lot of them are younger, women in their 30s and 40s and 50s.”

Still, stratospheric prices are the exception rather than the rule (at least compared to sought-after Art Deco pieces), in part because the ’70s coincided

with a wave of women entering the workforce and buying their own jewelry. “A lot of these jewels were pieces that they could afford,” Becket notes.

Jill Heller, a New York–based dealer who consults with private clients and has bejeweled celebrities such as Rihanna and Alicia Keys, sees the look of the ’70s as both alluring and relatable. “It’s feminine and sexy and relevant today,” she says. “I like Victorian jewelry, but some of it reads a little old-fashioned. With ’70s jewelry, it

VCA NECKLACE: COURTESY OF THE CINCINNATI ART MUSEUM/COLLECTION OF KIMBERLY KLOSTERMAN/PHOTO TONY WALSH; CARTIER BRACELETS: W WD ARCHIVE

T

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

Aldo Cipullo’s aventurine quartz, onyx and malachite necklace, which sold for $63,000 at Sotheby’s in August; Van Cleef & Arpels gold Arrow necklace; David Webb Radiator ring; Aldo Cipullo’s Love and Juste un Clou bracelets from his fall 1971 collection for Cartier.

That ’70s Showstopper

generations that missed the last days of disco by a mile. “My 19-year-old daughter loves the look,” she says.

Tiina Smith, principal of an eponymous jewelry gallery in Boston, has also noticed a clear generational factor.

“Daughters of the women who originally wore the jewelry from the 1970s have rediscovered it as they’ve come of age,” Smith says. “The pieces of jewelry your

The assembled pieces trace the Roman company’s history and are a resource for museum exhibitions, red-carpet accessorizing and research by the creative team.

Through both auctions and private transactions, Boscaini pursues items that best reflect the Bulgari aesthetic. Jewels created in the ’70s are among her primary targets. “They are very representative of our style, our iconic inspirations,” she says. “It’s a turning point in the history of our artistic evolution. It was a decade of great experimentation with motifs and materials, with inspiration ranging from Pop Art to the Far East. The jewels, in particular sautoirs with long chains and sumptuous pendants, became quite large, reflecting the ‘hippie’ fashion of that period.”

Both high jewelry and designs from its fine jewelry collection are of interest to the brand.

“It’s not a matter of price. It’s a matter of finding things that are representative of our style,” Boscaini explains. “A plain Serpenti watch can be extremely representative of our style, even if it was a very limited item.” And to capture the breadth of the Monete collection, a range of pieces featuring ancient coins that was a runaway success when it was introduced in the ’70s, “we need hundreds of items,” she says.

Bulgari has good reasons to retain its jewels, but should other collectors insist on buying signed pieces—or bust? Daniela Mascetti and David Bennett, experts who worked at Sotheby’s for more than 40 years each before founding Understanding Jewellery, an online platform that offers reference materials, courses and experiences, along with collection-management and jewelry-advising services, encourage a nuanced approach to evaluating signed and unsigned jewels.

“If you have the chance to buy something that’s beautiful and typical of the period and has a signature—bingo!” says Mascetti. “But I wouldn’t be obsessed with a signature. If you have a limited budget, rather than buying something small by a big name, buy great design and a great look by someone anonymous. Who knows? In 10 years’ time, you may figure out who made the piece.”

That’s what happened in the case of New York–based designer Julie Simpson, who has been collecting styles from the ’60s and ’70s for 15 years. In the beginning, competition wasn’t an issue, and the stakes weren’t high. “I found myself gravitating to pieces from the period and was able to buy some for less than the value of their gold 10 years ago. Nobody wanted them,” she recalls.

“And now the scholarship is better, so I have things that are not signed, but now we know who they’re by.”

Some of her treasured finds are a multicolored David Webb totem pendant with gemstones and gold and a two-sided Cartier zodiac pendant representing her Sagittarius birth sign, plus pieces from artist-jewelers, including Andrew Grima and Gilbert Albert, both of whom were known for bold, sculptural looks. “I like big things,” Simpson says. “They have to be beautifully made and comfortable. I can wear just one piece, and it makes a statement. I can wear a fancy bracelet with a pair of jeans, and when I do, no one else will be wearing the same thing.”

Her connoisseurship comes from firsthand experience. “I was a goldsmith. So I have an appreciation for how things are made,” she explains. “I became interested in the jewelry because the quality is so high. It feels so good to wear it.”

Likewise, there’s no substitute for jewels that have their own history. Contemporary pieces that take cues from ’70s design don’t make the grade for Simpson. “There’s so much copycat jewelry out there,” she says. “I want something unique and not being made anymore.”

“It’s feminine and sexy and relevant today. I like Victorian jewelry, but some of it reads a little old-fashioned.” mother wore when you’re starting to think about fashion and jewelry and the way you look become very romantic and nostalgic as you get older.”

Smith’s array of flashback-inducing trinkets includes blue-chip names but also some unsung designers, such as Norman Teufel, whose playful, kinetic pieces (think 18-karat-gold rings with movement reminiscent of a spinning top) represent a subset of bijoux from the era that went underappreciated at the time.

E almost feels like you could have bought it today.” And several jewelers are now finding inspiration in the decade. Pomellato, for instance, is featuring knot motifs and rings with chunky semiprecious stones, such as topaz and lemon quartz.

Heller cites Bulgari Monete collection necklaces set with ancient coins, Henry Dunay textured-gold jewels and David Webb’s enamel-embellished-gold animal cuffs as among the most desirable styles of the era. Their appeal often extends to

ven among well-known names, not all jewelry is equally in demand by serious collectors, says dealer Dana Kraus, who specializes in one-of-akind 20th-century pieces at DKF Estate Jewelry.

“If you’re looking to collect, you want to source pieces that are harder to find,” she says. “For example, Elsa Peretti made pieces for her friends and for Halston. Those pieces are rare and not mass-produced; that makes them special. An experienced dealer understands which those are.”

It’s not just individual aficionados who are on the hunt. Brands are often in the market for their own jewels. Bulgari, for example, under the guidance of Lucia Boscaini, its brand and heritage curator, acquires between 40 and 60 of its vintage pieces each year for its private collection.

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A bespoke timepiece is the ne plus ultra for many watch aficionados. One collector describes the long road from commission to the big reveal.

When Rare Is Not Enough

BY MARK CHO CHRISTIAN KLINGS PHOTOGRAPHY BY NICOLAS BLANDIN MARK CHO AND WATCH PHOTOGRAPHY BY TSZ FUNG CHAN

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GUT TER CREDITS

OPPOSITE : Christian Klings in his workshop in Saalfeld, Germany, holding a drawing of the watch he created for Mark Cho. THIS PAGE : The realization of that sketch: a detail of the back of Cho’s timepiece, with an open-worked movement handmade by Klings.

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A detail of the dial, featuring a salmon-colored guilloche surface painstakingly hand-carved by Klings in both barleycorn and sunburst patterns, Roman numerals in anthracite, slightly offset chapter rings and Breguet hands

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hat you’re looking at is one of the last watches that Christian Klings is likely to make. And, somewhat improbably, it belongs to me.

Christian, originally from East Germany, as it was known in his youth, is a watchmaker. He’s not a brand or a company or a team of craftsmen. It’s him, his two hands, some tools, synthetic ruby and lumps of stainless steel. This piece was designed by the pair of us, not chosen from a range of previous models. Christian has since semi-retired. Over a nearly 50-year career, he has made a grand total of 33 watches. Mine was the 30th. And it came into being through a fortuitous combination of connoisseurship, connections and not a little luck.

Back in 2018, Phillips auction house held a preview in Hong Kong that included an exhibition of independent watchmakers curated by Claudio Proietti of Maxima Gallery. The pieces were fabulous, brimming with beauty and ingenuity. One in particular caught my eye: a simple three-handed timepiece by Christian Klings. I asked to hold it and was struck by a sense of déjà vu.

My day job is cofounder of the Armoury, a men’s clothier in Hong Kong and New York. Part of my work involves representing and commissioning bespoke craftsmen from around the world— specifically Florence, Milan, Naples, Tokyo, Kobe and Osaka—for my clients. These artisans each have their own specialties, ranging from Florentine and Neapolitan tailoring to Japanese glasses and bags. What is common among all of them is extensive handiwork and the subtle imperfections that come with truly handmade things. I believe to own something lovingly crafted by hand is sublime. That day at the Phillips auction preview, Christian’s watch gave me the same awestruck feeling that I’d experienced so many times before when dealing with the best craftspeople for myself or my clients. I knew I was holding something very special in my hands. I have been collecting watches for 16 years, and while I have long entertained the thought of commissioning a timepiece of my own, I never felt the impetus to do so until I met Christian.

When Rare Is Not Enough

C

hristian was born in 1957 in Dresden, then on the Communist side of Germany. At age five he displayed the beginnings of the raw talent that he would later nurture: He amused himself by taking apart and reassembling alarm clocks and pocket watches. Fortunately for him, a friendly neighbor, who happened to be employed at a nearby metalworking factory, provided him with tools and guidance. Soon, along with a friend, he was dismantling, rebuilding and servicing motorcycles. (It’s a striking coincidence that motorcycles seem to be a shared interest among many of the watchmaking greats, including George Daniels and Derek Pratt.)

Upon completing high school, Christian became an apprentice watchmaker in Dresden, repairing and restoring countless complex clocks, pocket watches and wristwatches that had been brought into East Germany prior to the formation of the Communist state. He had a strong desire to see more of the world, and he eventually moved to West Germany and then California, where he lived for a decade and began creating his own timepieces while continuing with his by-then considerable and esteemed restoration work. In 2000, a decade after the German reunification, he found himself back in his homeland, initially working almost exclusively with a single wealthy collector who commissioned a number of unusual and complicated timepieces.

As always, Christian made them by hand. One of his passions within watchmaking is the escapement, the regulating organ of any timepiece, and he invented and realized several novel designs of this crucial element on his own. He settled in the sleepy town of Saalfeld, about 30 miles south of Weimar, and quietly made watches, signing them “C. Klings.”

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ealing with craftsmen is not always a straightforward matter, a stark contrast to how easy commerce has become in the internet age. A commission is an undertaking that is done together; it’s about forging a relationship and creating a product out of that connection. You reach an understanding of what can be achieved, but it can often be hard to predict what challenges may arise as the item is being made.

I met Christian over e-mail, introduced by my friend Jiaxian Su, who runs watchesbysjx.com, and we discussed ideas I had for my own piece at length. I’d taken some watchmaking classes at the Horological Society of New York, which helped with the process. Christian and I communicated almost exclusively via e-mail. While he speaks fluent English, it was sometimes a struggle for both of us to make ourselves understood. Thankfully, Christian drew a lot of diagrams, and I annotated a fair number of photos. It was also very useful to have a written record; otherwise, I would have forgotten some of the specifics that we’d previously discussed.

Starting with the dial, I wanted it to be similar to the original piece I saw in Hong Kong, but with chapter rings (decorative tracks under the markings for hours, minutes and seconds) that were slightly offset from one another. Pocket watches often have such a layout, whereas wristwatches rarely do because the rings might become illegible. My dial’s sub-seconds chapter ring dips slightly below the hours and overlaps with the minutes ring at six o’clock. Sometimes Christian would construct the same part twice, each with a slight variation to make it easier for me to visualize how it might look when the dial was complete. For instance, he presented me with two sub-seconds chapter rings, each in a different width; I chose the narrower.

I specified Breguet hands. This style, named after its inventor, the great Abraham-Louis Breguet, is difficult to balance aesthetically. It requires an appealing, curvy shape to the main, long part, followed by a ring with a slight glimmer on its interior edge to catch the eye and, finally, a purposeful, sharp tip

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to identify the time precisely. Christian’s hands were initially a little too bulbous, so he carefully thinned them to pair better with the fine Roman numerals. The subtle, symmetrical texture on the dial, known as guilloche, is carved by hand with the help of a lathe, akin to a very intricate spirograph. It’s incredibly arduous, slow and delicate work. I liked what I saw on the original piece and requested mine be done in the same way, a barleycorn pattern for the majority of the dial and a sunburst for the sub-seconds.

The dial is a distinct salmon color and a rather last-minute addition. As it was being constructed in 2020, Christian and I were in frequent contact to make small design decisions. At this stage, the dial had no hue. The markings had not been filled in with ink, and the hands had not been treated to have color yet, either. I wanted to explore a salmon dial and mocked it up in Photoshop, adding the shade to the main parts of the dial and creating a two-tone effect.

It generated an enthusiastic response from Christian, who e-mailed in his typically charming, if spell-check-free, manner: “Thanks for the design.It looks great.The dial with the slender chapterring and outside section in rosegold looks fantastic.

Exaxtly my taste.I did a similar design with Nr.6 with the powerreserve on my webside,and like to continue this idea.Makes me feel good.” The color was added by galvanic plating (a type of electroplating), one of the few things Christian cannot do himself. Imagine the anxiety he must feel when sending a dial with its completed guilloche off to a third party, hoping it comes

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LEFT: Mark Cho wearing his Christian Klings bespoke watch, photographed in Hong Kong. BELOW, FROM LEFT: Klings’s watchmaking paraphernalia; Klings in his workshop.

back unscathed. I left it to Christian to select the precise shade of salmon and was quite pleasantly surprised to see it in the metal, with its bright pink-yellow peaks of the guilloche pattern but darker, more saturated pink-red in the troughs. I’m glad I trusted him.

The watch case is Christian’s own design, replete with gentle curves. It has a broad, very softly rounded bezel with short, downward-turned lugs that are widely spaced. The overall effect is slim and pebble-like, reminiscent of a pocket watch from a bygone era.

Christian shaped the case by hand, which allowed him to continuously vary the radius of each curve in a very organic way.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the movement was the greatest challenge. In Christian’s words, “It was as hard to make as a tourbillon.” I was always keen to have an “open-worked” movement.

Typically, movements will be a combination of plates and bridges holding the wheels together. Plates are more stable but also hide a greater area of the technical details. An open-worked movement, which is visible on the finished watch, does away with most of the plates and instead relies primarily on bridges: small arms anchored by screws to secure all the wheels. It’s a tremendously difficult balancing act to fashion the bridges by hand with an aesthetically pleasing shape, to bevel and polish them to a beautiful shine and then install them perfectly parallel to the main plate.

As you can imagine, the wheels of the movement need to mesh precisely—were the bridges to be even slightly askew, the watch

When Rare Is Not Enough

A screwdriver tip in the wrong place or a part that’s one onehundredth of a millimeter too thick will shatter weeks of progress. would simply not function. There’s a reason most brands choose not to make their movements in this manner.

What compounded the difficulty for my piece was its size. I like smaller watches, typically 34 mm to 37 mm in diameter. I enjoy how discreet they are and how they feel on my wrist. In today’s world, there are only a handful of modern watches that are less than 38 mm. Indeed, Rolex is the only major manufacturer making 36 mm watches in any significant quantity. So it was a pleasure to be able to commission a “small” watch from Christian. Given my request for an open-worked movement, the watch could not be any less than 36.5 mm, as the movement parts simply could not be miniaturized any further. He worked at the physical limits of his eyesight and muscle control.

A friend asked me if commissioning a watch is like commissioning a suit, and yes, there are similarities. You start with a rough idea of what you would like and then discuss how it might be realized, keeping some plans and discarding others. Over the years, I have come to deeply appreciate other people’s taste and experience. I’m always happy to pay for that benefit. The finest artisans will give their customer a gentle nudge when an idea goes beyond the pale. It’s a comfort to know that when I’m in doubt about a choice in the detail of a commission, I can defer to them for sage advice. I have seen time and time again, with my own items and those of my customers, that the commissions that turn out the best are based on a good relationship with the craftsperson and a willingness to listen.

I am fortunate that Christian and I have quite similar tastes.

At one point, he wrote me: “I would like to disguss something with you. I hesitate to fill the roman numbers with the same dark color,like the hands.I think,it looks overpowering. I dont like to loose the delikate look,graceful look of the dial.” I was glad he highlighted this issue to me. I had originally anticipated using black markings by default, but Christian suggested anthracite, which was a subtle but very welcome improvement.

P

eople like Christian, who make every part of the watch bespoke, from scratch and by themselves, are exceedingly rare—he’s one of the last few who even attempt this extraordinary art. There are many outstanding watchmakers who, having come up with a great concept, will produce it in a small, limited series with little to no deviation in the design and often with a team of artisans. And there are, of course, excellent makers who offer bespoke watches, but the individualized elements are restricted to certain fixed parameters: a change in color on part of the dial or of the hands, for example. The watchmakers who choose to work in these ways are sensible and wise. Limitless possibility can result in a very confusing design and production process and potentially a dud of a final timepiece. Working by yourself can be lonely and stressful.

Watches are delicate and unforgiving. A screwdriver tip in the wrong place or a part that’s one one-hundredth of a millimeter too thick will shatter weeks of progress. Why would anyone want to take on this sort of endeavor and also do it alone?

I posed exactly this question to Christian over the phone one day. “This is a talent I have,” he told me. “I’ve been doing it since I was a small kid. I have a good, fine touch—I knew this all the time.

I was raised by a very calm and gentle old lady, and she taught me a lot of patience and discipline. I spent quite a bit of time by myself, and working with my hands on mechanical things was a way to keep myself occupied. The way I do it, nobody else can do it for a long time. It’s too crazy.” I asked if that perseverance is useful in other areas of his life. “I am retiring because I have decided to spend more time doing social work with my church,” he replied. “Many years ago, when I was still in the USA, I joined the Seventh-day Adventist Church and it became a big part of my life. Having great patience and discipline is so important in social work.”

What I admire most about Christian is his self-reliance. In his solitude, he reminds me of Olympic competitors toiling for years in preparation for a decisive moment that can define their legacy and that depends on their effort alone. The world is filled with wonderful things that came into being from the combined contributions of many people. The creation of a single product by an individual carries a very different energy. One person can never execute every detail faultlessly, but it’s thrilling to see them try.

The best will come close to perfection, as if nearing the divine. If you look carefully at the photos on these pages, you might notice there are some flaws in the watch. How could there not be? Like so many of the truly finest things, it was made by hand.

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The Men Behind the Movement A collector is only as good as their supplier.

Meet the dealers at the top of the watch trade.

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By Paige Reddinger

Watch dealer Sean Song with some of the goods in his space at the St. Regis Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Song wears a Daniel Roth C127 Retrograde.

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The Men Behind the Movement

• WHAT’S HOT Rolex “Big Red” Daytona Ref. 6263 in steel, Rolex Red Submariner Ref. 1680, Rolex DayDate “Stella” Dial Ref. 1803, any vintage Cartier pre-1970

Sean Song KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA Described by fellow industry insiders as “the only watch dealer with an address at the St. Regis,” 28-year-old Sean Song certainly has one of the most elegant showrooms for scarce wrist candy, including such rarities as an F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Régence Circulaire (one of 20 made), a Daniel Roth Seconds at Six with a salmon dial and a Cartier Tank Louis Collection Privé Wandering Hours. “The good thing about being in a hotel is that there is security,” says Song. “Usually, with new clients I meet them downstairs first, and then, once I get to know them, I feel more comfortable.”

Song doesn’t trade exclusively at the high-priced echelon. “I tend to buy what I like,” he says. “Recently, I bought and sold a vintage stainless-steel GirardPerregaux Triple Calendar with Breguet numerals, and it was only $3,000. I was like, ‘I can’t resist this.’ ” Before he was dealing in marquee names, he was studying graphic design in London, where he scoured eBay for noteworthy finds below $100. He also started writing about watches, hanging around old-school dealers WHAT’S HOT and dabbling in dealing himself. He F. P. Journe, decided to make horology his fullCartier Collection time gig after buying a WWII-era Privé, ’60s and Cyma issued to the British Armed ’70s vintage Rolex Forces for about $770 and selling it for $1,235. “It was in perfect condiONES TO tion, but at the time it wasn’t very WATCH popular. No one really knew about Roger Dubuis, the ‘Dirty Dozen’ watches,” Song Daniel Roth, says, referring to models from 12 Vacheron companies commissioned by the Constantin British military during the war. perpetual When he started S.Song Watches calendars, Patek back in Kuala Lumpur in 2017, he Philippe Ref. 3940 specialized in chronographs from from the ’90s the ’40s and ’50s, in addition to ’60s sport models. Now, he also handles WORD TO coveted Audemars Piguet Royal THE WISE Oaks and Patek Philippe Nautiluses Song says he and has progressed to newer modbelieves early els. “The thing that really gets me Breguet models excited is neo-vintage stuff,” says are currently Song. “I’m interested in those old, undervalued. rare Cartiers from the ’90s, [Roger] He favors Dubuis, Daniel Roth, which also the Ref. 3237 leads to independents. I think that’s Lemania-based much more exciting than selling a chronograph.

[Rolex] Daytona every week.”

ONES TO WATCH Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 with Zenith movement, Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610, any Cartier from the ’70s to ’90s WORD TO THE WISE “The Rolex Ref. 1501 and 5500 with plastic crystal are real sleepers that are very cheap still,” says Ku.

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Eric Ku

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BERKELEY, CALIF.

Eric Ku of 10 Past Ten is widely considered one of the kings of vintage Rolex. A horology buff since childhood, he would often unload one watch in order to buy another.

His first Rolex, purchased while he was at UC Berkeley, was an Air King, which would look downright entry-level next to the mint-condition “Paul Newman” Daytona that now graces his wrist.

His learning curve as a wheeler-dealer, however, was steep. He had to part with some early acquisitions to pay for a stock-market blunder: Using his tuition money, he plowed $30,000 into eBay’s IPO in 1998, at $50 per share. After the stock swiftly rose to $300, he shorted it—so sure of his bet that he put a down payment on a Porsche. He lost the whole investment when eBay climbed to $700. “That first Rolex? I sold it because I was subsisting on Noah’s Bagels for several months until I got the courage to ask my dad for more money,” Ku recalls. And he never got the keys to that Porsche.

Ku quit his last “real” job in 2005 to deal full-time, mostly on the Vintage Rolex Forum (a website he took over in 2014). But

with social media in its infancy, the game was about to change forever. “The horizons broadened and there were just more people interested in vintage watches,” he says. By 2009, he was able to buy back his Air King from the client who’d taken it off his hands a decade earlier, though for a “silly amount of money,” he says.

Now, unicorns such as a one-off Rainbow Daytona, commissioned in 1999 for a Middle Eastern collector, trade through the 42-year-old’s hands for astronomical figures. He snagged the Rainbow for $700,000, approximately 10 times its asking price on the secondary market seven years earlier. “I sold it for more, obviously,” he says.

As far as the “Crowns” on his site 10 Past Ten, you have to act fast: Clients are lightning-quick to snap them up. His solution? Loupe This, a new auction site he cofounded, aims to even the playing field.

Daily curated sales have opening bids from $5,000 to $300,000 and no reserves. Ku says it will be a while before the site starts selling million-dollar pieces before adding, “We’ll be there sooner than later.”

Eric Ku, wearing a vintage Breguet with guilloche dial, in his Berkeley office

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Tariq Malik DUBAI, UAE

• WHAT’S HOT “Stella” Day-Dates, Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 16710, Rolex Submariner Ref. 14060 and Ref. 16610

As a teen, Tariq Malik says, “I was not really into watches.” That may be an understatement: “I had a plastic calculator watch.” But at 16 he found himself dealing in Swatch watches in his hometown of Aachen, Germany.

After running a jewelry boutique with his twin brother while at university, Malik landed a gig in the telecom business that sent him to Dubai several times a year. It became the catalyst for his move to the sprawling metropolis filled with big skyscrapers and even bigger money.

“At the beginning of January 2011, I took all the money I had and a suitcase, and I knocked at my friend’s door,” says Malik. “I said, ‘I’m moving in now. Let’s do something.’ ” Nine months later he opened Momentum Dubai, the emirate’s first dedicated vintage-watch destination.

His inventory of about 60 models sold out in just two months.

Still, he operated by trial and error at the beginning. The storefront, located in the Dubai

International Financial Centre, launched with 15 brands, including Omega, Heuer, Bulova and Breitling. But Rolex has become its bread and butter, accounting for roughly 90 percent of the business. “This is how we got there: by doing what our clients want to see,” says the 46-yearold Malik. A recent crowning achievement was a Rolex Daytona Ref. 6263 outfitted with the UAE Ministry of Defence coat of arms in lieu of the brand logo, which sold for $350,000.

While he deals in big-league “Rollies,” Malik says Rolex Day-Dates are his personal preference. “We had a little bit of a hand in creating that trend around the Day-Date, a slightly forgotten watch among collectors,” compared to Daytonas, GMT-Masters or Submariners, says Malik. The vault stows anywhere from 20 to 30 at a time, each distinguished by a special detail not typically seen in large-production editions. During a year when even a DateJust is hard to come by in a Rolex boutique, Malik might be onto something.

ONES TO WATCH Vintage Rolex DayDates and DateJusts with rare stone and “Stella” dials

Tariq Malik at Momentum Dubai, sporting a 1978 Rolex "Stella" Ref. 18038 and a 1990 Rolex Day-Date Ref. 18239 with rare onyx dial

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WORD TO THE WISE “The Daytona is very volatile,” says Malik.

“We’ve had ups and downs in the last three years. If you say Daytona is rare, I would say it’s a lie, because whenever you want to buy one, you can find one.”

• WHAT’S HOT Rolex Ref. 6263 Daytona, Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 25654 ONES TO WATCH Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4217 and Ref. 4301, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 5402 A- and B-Series and vintage Longines chronographs WORD TO THE WISE Speaking of the Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4217 and Ref. 4301 mentioned above, Wind advises, “they only made a very small batch of each type of dial for each reference, so it is hard to find more than a handful of a single type in existence.”

Eric Wind at his desk, with a 1975 Rolex Explorer Ref. 1016 on his wrist

Eric Wind WEST PALM BEACH, FLA.

Eric Wind’s first major deal since founding Wind Vintage four years ago was for a Rolex Big Crown “James Bond” Submariner Ref. 6538 with a brown “Tropical” dial—considered a holy grail by most collectors. He is mum about the price, but a similar model hammered in for $567,000 at Phillips the same year. Suffice to say, Wind’s was way outside the realm of a novice’s transaction.

But Wind was no beginner. Respected since his days as a freelance watch writer (while earning an MBA at Oxford), he landed at Christie’s in 2015 as a senior specialist. “I was like, ‘What’s the worst that could happen? I’ll have worked for Christie’s, have a great name and title on my résumé, and I can always go do something else,’ ” says Wind. After a twoyear stint, he ventured out on his own.

The 35-year-old Wind has quickly become one of the

PHOTOGRAPH BY SAUL MARTINEZ

most sought-after dealers in the US. He can now charge collectors a hefty hourly fee for advice or watch hunting.

Wind is known for capturing rare finds and also specializes in Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin, as well as Omega, Heuer and Longines. Thanks to an early career in international politics, he has a certain affinity for presidential timepieces: Lyndon B. Johnson’s Benrus, Dwight D. Eisenhower’s Bulova chronograph and a Rolex GMTMaster II Ref. 1675 owned by Mexico’s José López Portillo have all passed through his hands.

Wind plans to remain as in-demand as his merchandise by staying a solo act. “That’s why I started as a dealer,” he says. “There’s room for an expert and working one-on-one.”

He cites art advisers as his model. “You’re not hiring a big firm; you’re hiring a person.”

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Silas Walton LONDON Silas Walton counts Philippe Dufour, Roger W. Smith and Kari Voutilainen, to name a few, as close friends and has become one of their most trusted dealers. “I spend a lot of time making sure I keep those relationships strong,” he says. And with good reason: These innovators’ prices have soared, in some cases well into the multimillions, in recent years.

Some of those figures can be attributed to the 34-year-old Walton, who came to the field in a roundabout way: He blew some early paychecks from his first post-university job on a Cartier Tank and a Longines Conquest and later needed to unload them. “It was such a Wild West, the pre-owned world,” he says.

Walton started his business, now called A Collected Man, in 2014. A family friend consigned two pieces that turned out to be life-changing: Kari Voutilainen’s first-series Observatoire and a Roger W. Smith Series 2—both models that aficionados could only dream of acquiring now. “We were not in the era of independent watchmaking that we are in today, where these things are WHAT’S HOT white-hot,” says Walton, noting that Philippe Dufour, collectors were taking substantial Roger W. Smith, Kari losses on similar timepieces. He sold Voutilainen and F. P. the Voutilainen for about $87,800 and Journe the Smith for around $200,210, both comfortably above retail value.

ONES TO WATCH Those returns earned the watchDe Bethune, MB&F, makers’ stamps of approval: He Patek Philippe Ref. quickly became the first and only 3419, 3970 and 3940 approved pre-owned reseller for Dufour, Voutilainen and Smith.

WORD TO Lately, he has turned his attention THE WISE to up-and-comers, including Akrivia Patek Philippe Ref. and Petermann Bédat. And he’s bank3940 models “don’t ing on a surge in interest for neogenerally trade for vintage examples from the ’80s to the more than $70,000,” early 2000s from established players Walton says, “even such as Patek Philippe and Vacheron though they are Constantin. not that far removed Recent sales suggest top niche from the best makers are still his honeypot. Case in watchmaking 40 point: A Collected Man made headlines or 50 years earlier in August for the $7.63 million sale of from the same brand Dufour’s Grande et Petite Sonnerie— that would go for the most expensive timepiece by an considerably more.” independent maker ever sold.

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Silas Walton at A Collected Man’s office with his Labrador, Annabelle, and a Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain on his wrist

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Louis Vuitton L’Elan Vital bracelet and ring in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, prices upon request; Alexander Vauthier crepe dress, $3,681.

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Running Hed

Care to make a statement?

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY

J AC O B + C A R RO L

J E W E L RY E D I TO R :

PA I G E R E D D I N G E R

S T Y L E D BY

ALEX BADIA

Running Hed

Messika Dancing on Air single earring in 18-karat white gold set with one 1F 10.03-carat pear-cut diamond, price upon request; Tory Burch cotton-poplin dress and cape, $998.

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FROM TOP:

Harry Winston Tulip necklace and Art Deco Collection sautoir, both in platinum and diamonds, prices upon request; Valentino silk dress, $9,800.

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Bold Is Back

ABOVE:

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Gismondi 1754 Aura cuff bracelet in 18-karat rose gold and diamonds, $53,180; Mimi So ring in 18-karat rose gold and diamonds, $8,900; Picchiotti Xpandable ring in 18-karat yellow and white gold set with one 5.81-carat green tourmaline and diamonds, $22,400; Loewe viscose dress, $2,990.

Running Hed

LEFT:

ABOVE:

Sean Gilson for Assael headband in

Ana Khouri Crumble

platinum, old European-cut diamonds and South Sea pearls, $195,000; Ana Khouri Jamie earring in 18-karat white fairmined gold set with one 4.69-carat green Paraiba tourmaline and diamonds, and diamond stud earring, prices upon request; Hermès leather dress, $6,650.

bracelet in 18-karat yellow fairmined gold, price upon request.

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Running Bold Is Back Hed

Pomellato Fantina earrings in 18-karat rose gold and diamonds, $23,000; Vendorafa Hula Hoop70 choker in 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds, $58,800; Fendi wool dress, $1,450.

Running Hed

Tiffany & Co. Jewel Box mixed-cut necklace in 18-karat yellow gold and aquamarines, $60,000; Temple St. Clair

Beehive bracelet in 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds, $24,000; Nikos Koulis Feelings ring in 18-karat yellow and white gold with diamonds, $17,515; Alexandre Vauthier stretch-jersey dress, $2,212.

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Bold Is Back

Nina Runsdorf earrings in platinum with Tabiz-cut diamonds, price upon request; Boucheron Vendôme necklace in 18-karat white and yellow gold with agate, yellow sapphires, mother-of-pearl and diamonds, $162,000; Chopard necklace in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, and cuff bracelet in 18-karat white gold, carbon and diamonds, prices upon request; Suzanne Kalan Eternity Lines ring in 18-karat white gold and diamonds, $7,800; Salvatore Ferragamo chain mail dress, $19,100.

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Running Bold Is Back Hed

Vhernier Plissé earrings in 18-karat pink gold, $8,600; Hermès Niloticus Lumière necklace in 18-karat rose gold, black jade and diamonds, price upon request; Alaïa bodysuit in sheer crepe silk, $3,590.

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Running Hed

Van Cleef & Arpels Simone necklace in 18-karat rose and white gold set with one 6.02-carat aquamarine, sapphires, garnets, aquamarines, chrysophase, onyx, pearls and diamonds, price upon request; Ashlyn bonded crepe gown, $2,590.

MODELS: Ysaunny Brito, Harleth Kuusik, Leah Ying Lin HAIR: Menelaos Alevras MAKEUP: William Murphy FASHION MARKET EDITOR:

Emily Mercer FASHION ASSISTANT:

Victor Vaughns Jr. CASTING: Luis Campuzano

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The Duel Royal jewels almost always make a big splash at auction. The crown that the Notorious B.I.G. wore in his famous King of New York photograph sold for nearly $600,000 last year, while a pair of Marie Antoinette’s diamond bracelets is valued between $2 million and $4 million and expected to sell for much more later this month. Similarly jaw-dropping figures, but the baubles—and the people who owned them—are truly one-of-a-kind. So how do the king’s and queen’s heirlooms compare?

The Notorious Marie Antoinette’s B.I.G.’s Crown Bracelets VS .

CAPTU RE D BY

Barron Claiborne, who photographed Biggie wearing the crown for Rap Pages magazine in 1997. The image has since been referred to as the Mona Lisa of hip-hop.

Antoine Jean-Gros, who painted a portrait of Marie Thérèse, Antoinette’s daughter, wearing the bracelets in 1816. He’s best known for a painting of Napoleon visiting bubonic plague victims in Jaffa.

PU RCHASE D F OR

$6

250,000 livres, although the queen didn’t have that much in cash at the time. She made a down payment of 29,000 livres and traded in some other gems instead.

MADE OF

Plastic. (It was a prop for a photo shoot, after all.)

112 diamonds ranging from 1 to 4.5 carats, all set in gold and silver.

WHE RE HAS IT BE E N ALL THIS TIME ?

Collecting dust in Claiborne’s studio.

In the same wooden box that the queen sent to an Austrian ambassador when she was imprisoned in Paris during the revolution. She was beheaded shortly thereafter, so the bracelets may be cursed.

BOU G HT F ROM

M. Gordon Novelties, a since-shuttered NYC Halloween store where, according to the old signage, you could buy party hats, lanterns, wigs and bingo supplies.

Boehmer et Bassenge, which also made a scandalous necklace that helped spark the French Revolution.

Contemporary tennis bracelets.

(The pair may have even inspired the style.)

ALSO IN THE IR C OLL E CTION

Rolexes. Tupac reportedly gave Biggie his first one.

More jewelry. The queen had an insatiable appetite for it, and the pieces still appeal to collectors today: Her pearl-anddiamond necklace sold for a whopping $36.1 million in 2018.

SU BSE QU E NT OWNE RS

The crown (or a facsimile) recently resurfaced in a photograph of Beyoncé and Jay-Z’s 9-year-old daughter, Blue Ivy. She’s wearing it while drinking out of her first Grammy.

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The bracelets stayed in the family for a few years, but they were given to auction house Christie’s by an anonymous royal.

NOTORIOUS B.I.G., BURGER KING, NECKLACE AND CROWN: AP

LOOKS L IKE

The Burger King. The photo shoot was almost a no-go because Sean Combs, the owner of the record label that Biggie was signed with, expressed concerns that the crown would make the rapper look like the fast-food mascot.

BREGUET.COM

breguet inventor of the tourbillon

MARINE 5887