s Travel Diary
ZANZIBAR MEMOIR
Photographer Andrew Morgan spent 10 years living on this Tanzanian gem and, after returning there recently for a two-week work gig, shares his insider take on where to stay and what to do on the “Spice Island”. WORDS AND PHOTOS ANDREW MORGAN
STONE TOWN A heady mix of colours, smells, cultures and energy comes alive at sunrise with the muezzin’s call. Locals open shops filled with colourful fabrics and artwork; aromas of freshly pressed sugar-cane juice, dates and street food fill the air; and the sounds of happy greetings, laughter, bicycle bells and scooter horns start to build. From the Darajani Market where the island’s farmers and fishermen gather each day to sell their produce, to the island’s residents, hotels and restaurants, and the Forodhani Gardens where, every evening, you can find a plethora of seafood and other delights grilled under the stars, this bustling historical heart of Zanzibar is constantly beating.
Two standout accommodation options are Emerson Spice Hotel, a luxurious re-imagining of old-world Arabic style with expansive rooms, carved Swahili beds and lavish fabrics; and the more contemporary Upendo, where you will find a different wallpaper by South Africa’s Cara Saven Wall Design in each of the rooms. The restaurant on the fourth floor here plays host to some delicious Indian tapas-inspired dishes, and the rooftop pool and bar offer wonderful views over the town and sea beyond. emersonzanzibar.com | upendozanzibar.com SAFARI BLUE Having lived on the main island for 10 years, I still maintain that if you only had one day in Zanzibar, the original Safari Blue boat tour would be the best way to spend it.
ABOVE Stone Town is a maze of streets, energies and aromas – the historical heart of Zanzibar.
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