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ägypten

Die Pyramiden von Gizeh, in geometrischer Perfektion erbaut. Rätselhafte Gottheiten — halb Mensch halb Tier. Mächtige Pharaonen, zur Mumie erstarrt. Die Mystik der alten ägyptischen Hochkultur zieht den Betrachter heute wie damals in ihren Bann. Ägypten — eine «Zauberwiese», schreibt Thomas Mann 1930 ins Gästebuch des Hotels «Winter Palace» in Luxor. Von hier bis Assuan, entlang des Nils, reihen sich die archäologischen Schätze wie Perlen an einer Schnur. Träge dahinschaukelnd an Bord eines Kreuzfahrtschiﬀes, reisen Sie mondän wie einst die europäische Bohème. Abenteuerlustige steigen um: Im Geländewagen durch die menschenleere Weisse Wüste. Bizarre Gesteinsformationen, wie von einem wild gewordenen

Gipskünstler wahllos in den Sand gesetzt. Kraft tanken bei den Beduinen: Würziger Pfefferminztee und eine Wasserpfeife im üppigen Grün einer Wüstenoase. Jahrtausendealte Tradition — mitten im Niemandsland. An den Küsten Kontrastprogramm: Tauchen, Segeln, Surfen — die Badeorte am Roten und Mittelmeer bieten ein breites Sportangebot und quirliges Strandleben. In allen Farben schillert die Unterwasserwelt — Korallenparadiese, nur wenige Meter tief im warmen Wasser rund um die Halbinsel Sinai. Ägypten ist eine Schatzkiste voller Kostbarkeiten. Hier schöpfen Sie aus dem Vollen.

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Golf, Tauchen

Ägyptens Tauchgründe sind legendär: Die Farben der ungezählten Tiere und Pﬂanzen schillern im kristallklaren Wasser besonders verführerisch, für jeden Schwierigkeitsgrad und jeden Wunsch gibt es den passenden Ort. Dasselbe gilt für die einwandfrei gepﬂegten Golfplätze des Wüstenlandes: Sattgrüne Fairways, spektakulär gelegen und interessant gestaltet. Abschlag mit Sicht auf die Pyramiden

von Gizeh, an der Küste des Roten Meeres entlang spielen oder beim Einlochen die Berge des Sinai im Hintergrund. Abwechslungsreiche Plätze mit herausfordernden Hindernissen für jedes Handicap — das ganze Jahr hindurch.

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einführung h shar m el-sheik h / dahab / n u weiba / taba / taba heights

Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, Nuweiba Taba, Taba Heights

Die Halbinsel Sinai, der Garten Eden Ägyptens: Rotbraune Felsmassive im heissen Landesinneren weichen an den Küsten Badestränden, öffnen sich für feine Sand- und Kieselbuchten am tiefblauen Meer. Beeindruckende Landschaft, die sich unter Wasser fortsetzt: Die Korallenriffe rund um den Sinai stehen unter Schutz, Farbenpracht und Artenreichtum ś etwa im Naturpark Ras Mohammed ś locken Taucher aus aller Welt. Biblisch-paradiesische Metaphern sind angebracht ś nicht zuletzt wegen der Geschichte der Halbinsel: Auf dem Mosesberg empfing der Prophet einst die Zehn Gebote.

Von göttlicher Erhabenheit ist im touristischen Sharm el-Sheikh heute nur noch wenig zu spüren: Wassersportler und Partygänger kommen hier auf ihre Kosten ś Schnorcheln, Surfen, Strandfaulenzen. Weiter nördlich dagegen mehr Abgeschiedenheit und Ruhe: Dahab, Nuweiba, Taba, Taba Heights ś hier verbringen Sie Ihre Nachmittage im sonnigen Vakuum, vor eindrucksvoller Bergkulisse.

28 einführung h shar m el-sheik h / dahab / n u weiba / taba / taba heights

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einführung h hurghada / sahl hasheesh / m ak adi bay / el gouna / som a bay / abu som a 45

Hurghada, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, El Gouna, Soma Bay, Abu Soma

Etwa 400 Kilometer südlich vom Suezkanal, eingebettet zwischen der arabischen Wüste und dem Roten Meer: Hurghada, Sahl Hasheesh, Makadi Bay, El Gouna, Soma Bay und Abu Soma. Vor wenigen Jahren noch verschlafene Dörfchen oder karge Mondlandschaften in der Wüste — heute Ferien-Eldorados für Aktive und Tagträumer. An Land: Helle Sandstrände, palmengesäumte Lagunen und lebhafte Promenaden direkt vor den Hotelpforten. Im Meer: Fantastische Unterwasserwelten, bunte Fische und ﬁligrane Korallen. Zum trendigen Gesicht der Orte passt das moderne Freizeitangebot: Wassersport von

Schnorcheln bis Surfen, Golfen mit Blick aufs Meer. Das Nachtleben zieht sich bis in die Morgenstunden, sei es an einer der Strand promenaden, in gemütlichen Shisha Cafés oder in einer der zahlreichen Hoteldiscos. Und falls der Hunger nach Kultur wächst: Ausﬂüge nach Luxor oder auf die Sinai Halbinsel bieten eine willkommene Abwechslung zum süssen Nichtstun und ermöglichen Ihnen Einblicke in die geschichtsträchtige Vergangenheit des Landes.

46 einführung h hurghada / el gouna / som a bay / sahl hasheesh / m ak adi bay

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Marsa Alam, Port Ghalib, El Quseir

Diese Ferienregion versteckt ihre «Sehenswürdigkeiten» hauptsächlich unter Wasser: Mit Glück treffen Sie am Elphinstone Riff auf Grossfische: nicht selten Haie — oder am bekannten Dolphin House auf Delfine. Die «El Quseir-Charta» wird streng befolgt: Die Anzahl der Tauchgänge ist limitiert, Jetski fahren und Angeln strikt verboten. Nach Strandstunden lohnt in El Quseir ein Spaziergang durch die schattigen Gassen: Denkmalgeschützte Häuser, alte Moscheen, Holzfassaden. Auf den Souks und Beduinenmärkten duftet es aromatisch nach Gewürzen,

Tee und Früchten. Die Hotelgegend mit ihren grünen Parks liegt ausserhalb des Ortes, direkt am Meer. Marsa Alam und Port Ghalib sind erst seit wenigen Jahren für den Tourismus erschlossen — die Orte sind noch sehr ruhig und überschaubar. Die Hotels sind regelrechte «Ferienoasen in der Wüste»: Traumhafte Gärten am Meer — mit fantastischer Infrastruktur, unzähligen Sportmöglichkeiten und internationaler Gastronomie.

einführung h m ar sa al a m / port ghalib / el quseir 63

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Marsa Matrouh

Blendend helle Sandstrände, bizarre Felsformationen, türkisfarbenes Wasser ś karibisches Flair an Ägyptens Mittelmeerküste. Bisher war die Postkartenidylle 290 Kilometer westlich von Alexandria eher Landeskennern und Einheimischen ein Begriﬀ. Doch schon die grossen Geniesser der Antike ś Kleopatra, Marc Antonius, Alexander der Grosse ś kamen nach Marsa Matrouh, wussten um die Einmaligkeit der Landschaft und das milde, verträgliche Klima. Auch die dunklen Seiten der jüngeren Geschichte gingen nicht spurlos

an den malerischen Mittelmeerstränden vorüber: Der deutsche General Rommel nutzte eine Höhle in den Küstenfelsen als Versteck, entwarf hier Pläne für seine militärischen Operationen. Fast surreal wirkt dieses Kapitel heute angesichts des Bilderbuchpanoramas. Beschaulicher als hier geht es nur noch in Siwa zu: Die Wüstenoase 300 Kilometer weiter südlich ist über ein Landstrasse ab Marsa Matrouh problemlos zu erreichen.

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einführung h k airo / ain sok hna

Kairo, Ain Sokhna

Kairo — eine moderne Megacity mit über 18 Millionen Einwohnern. Ein Moloch, eine Kulturmetropole, ein Ansturm auf die Sinne. Die Skyline der Hochhäuser am Nil — scharfer Kontrast zu den Pyramiden von Gizeh am Stadtrand. Angesagte Bars und legendäre Kaffeehäuser, Moscheen und Museen, Shoppingcenter und der «Khan el-Khalili», die Mutter aller Basare. Hier betören würzige Gerüche aus 1001 Nacht, trinken Einheimische Tee oder paffen Shisha in jahrhundertealten «ahwas» (Kaffeehäusern). Gassen und Gebäude

der islamischen Altstadt — seit dem Mittelalter kaum verändert, 1979 als Weltkulturerbe deklariert. Ein Paralleluniversum, denn von der Zitadelle mit der Mohammed-Ali-Moschee, oﬀenbart sich die Stadt in einem tosenden Lichtermeer. Gestressten Städtern und Stadttouristen verspricht der nicht weit entfernte Badeort Ain Sokhna Erholung. Am Golf von Suez, wo karge Hänge in weichen Sandstrand auslaufen, ﬁnden vom Sightseeing Erschöpfte Ruhe.

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Alexandria

Wissenszentrum der Spätantike und bis in die 50-er Jahre die kosmopolitischste Stadt am Mittelmeer. Heute, nach einem halben Jahrhundert im Dornröschenschlaf, erwacht Alexandria von neuem und trumpft mit ihrem antiken Erbe auf: Die legendäre Bibliotheca Alexandrina ist am alten Platz neu aufgebaut. Im Meer vor der Stadt ruhen vermutlich die Reste des Leuchtturms von Pharos und Kleopatras Palast — an Land, verborgen unter den Strassen: Die römischen Katakom-

ben «Kom el-Shukafa». Auf den Spuren der Ver-gangenheit vergessen Sie fast, dass Sie in ein-er modernen Stadt sind: Alexandria steuert auf eine neue Blütezeit zu, entwickelt sich wieder zu einer charmanten Sommerresidenz, in der sich Kultur und Badeferien bestens kombinieren lassen: Die Postkartenstrände im Westen der Stadt gelten als Synonym für Sommerfrische.

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Sie könnten «Tod auf dem Nil» lesen, während Sie das Flusstal bereisen — hier schrieb Agatha Christie ihren Krimi: In den Grandhotels von Luxor und Assuan, auf einem Raddampfer den Fluss entlang schippernd: «Im scheidenden Tageslicht stand Poirot im Aussichtssalon und blickte auf die schmale Fahrrinne. Die Felsen fielen schroff und steil rechts und links ab, und zwischen ihnen floss der Strom tief und schnell.» («Tod auf dem Nil», Agatha Christie) Am Ufer folgt auf karge Hügel fruchtbares Ackerland: Palmen, Felder, Fischer bei der Arbeit — ohne seine sprichwörtliche

«Lebensader» würde Ägypten vollends zum Wüstenstaat. Der Reichtum des Flusstals beschränkt sich nicht auf Feldfrüchte, Flora und Fauna: archäologische Schätze reihen sich entlang des Nils wie Perlen an einer Schnur. Luxor und Assuan sind Ballungsräume kultureller Höhepunkte — Luxor hat den Ruf des «grössten Freiluftmuseums der Welt»: Mächtige Pharaonen fanden hier ihre ewige Ruhe — und blieben doch unsterblich in ihren monumentalen Bauten.

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Von Luxor nach Assuan ś träge treibend auf dem mächtigen Nil. Ägyptenreise, klassisch. Imposante Tempel und friedliche Fischerszenen ziehen vorbei wie im Film. Die Tage angepasst an den langsamen Rhythmus des Lebens am Fluss. Ein Reisegefährte des Schriftstellers Gustave Flaubert notiert 1850: «Wenn Flaubert gekonnt hätte, so wäre er am liebsten auf einem Sofa liegend gereist, ohne sich zu rühren, hätte

Landschaften, die Ruinen und die Städte an sich vorüberziehen sehen wie die Leinwand eines Panoramas.» Doch monumentale Relikte vergangener Kulturen ziehen jeden Schiﬀsreisenden magnetisch an Land: Das Tal der Könige, Karnak, Kom Ombo ś und südlich von Assuan, am Ufer des Nasser Stausees: Abu Simbel.

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Wüstenoasen

Natürliche Quellen bewässern die prächtigen Gärten Siwas und Baharias, lassen in karger Umgebung Palmen-, Obst- und Olivenbäume und die süssesten Datteln Ägyptens gedeihen. In Al Fayoum nähren hunderte Kapillarkanäle den Wüstenboden ś der Quaroun See bietet zahllosen Vögeln Lebensraum. Wie Fata Morganas erscheinen Ägyptens Oasen jeweils im Flimmern über dem Horizont ś idyllische Enklaven weitab der Zivilisation, sagenumwobene Handelsstätten mitten in der Wüste. Hier ernteten schon die Römer Obst

und Korn, rasteten Karawanen auf ihrem Weg durch den heissen Sand: Al Kharga etwa liegt an der «Darb-al Arba’een» (40-Tage-Strasse), einst wichtigste und gefährlichste Handelsroute vom Sudan nach Ägypten. Überreste römischer Wachtürme und Festungen sind stille Zeugen. In Dakhla scheint die Zeit vollends stehen geblieben: Uralte Lehmziegeldörfer mit engen Gassenlabyrinthen und gravierten Türstöcken, zum Teil auf noch älteren Fundamenten erbaut.

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Einsamkeit, Spiritualität, Naturerfahrung ś schon vor Jahrtausenden begaben sich Menschen in die Wüste, um ś fernab der Zivilisation ś sich selbst und Gott näher zu sein. Die Flucht in die leere Weite hat den Urchristen Ägyptens das Leben gerettet ś und ihren Glauben lange überdauern lassen: Die frühchristlichen Lehmziegelgräber «Al-Bagawat» sind gut erhalten, in den Klöstern von Wadi el Natroun leben immer noch Mönche. Eine Tour durch die Wüste ist kulturelle Schatzsuche und intensives Naturerlebnis:

Südlich von Baharia scheint es, als hätte jemand die grenzenlose Leere nicht mehr ertragen, hätte ś in der Sehnsucht des menschlichen Auges nach Abwechslung ś wahllos Steinskulpturen in den Sand gesetzt: Weiss, bizarr, beinahe zerbrechlich. Feiner Sand und kantiger Fels, endlose Kargheit und blühende Oasen, sanfte Dünen und steile Canyons ś das heisse Herz Ägyptens ist die abwechslungsreichste Wüstenlandschaft der Welt: Ausﬂüge sind Entdeckungsreisen.

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Auf wild gemusterten Kissen und Decken liegt eine Frau in zartem Gewand: «Odalisque à la culotte gris» von Henri Matisse — sinnlich, üppig, farbenfroh. Wie das Land, das den Maler inspirierte. Marokko. Schon seit Jahrhunderten kommen Künstler und Avantgardisten ins Land — auf der Suche nach Exotik und Intensität. Matisses Odalisken sind Sinnbilder für die Atmosphäre der Königsstädte: Marmor, Mauerverzierungen, Mosaike — auf den Souks eine verschwenderische Fülle von Mandeln, Datteln und Gewürzen. Orientalische Opulenz, Ansturm auf die Sinne — und doch: Europa ist nah. Von Tanger aus ist Spanien in Sichtweite, in den befestigten Städten entlang der Atlantikküste sind die Spuren europäischer Seefahrer-

mächte unübersehbar. Heute geniessen Surfer und Badegäste die langen, sauberen Sandstrände, proﬁtieren vor allem in Agadir von einer gut entwickelten Infrastruktur. Ungezähmter das Landesinnere: Nirgendwo ist das Panorama dramatischer, nirgendwo die Landschaften abwechslungsreicher. Hinter grünen Palmenhainen erheben sich schneebedeckte Berggipfel, schroﬀe Zweitausender grenzen an die Wüste. Die Filmindustrie hat all dies längst für sich entdeckt — wie steht es mit Ihnen?

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einführung h golf 125

Golf

Bereits in den frühen 20er-Jahren entstand Marokkos erster Golfplatz: der Royal Golf Course in Marrakesch. Später förderte König Hassan II — selbst ein passionierter Golfspieler — den Bau von neuen Plätzen: Palmengesäumte Oasen mit königlicher Sicht auf das schneebedeckte Atlas-Gebirge oder auf den

Ozean. Auf hervorragenden Plätzen frönen Golfer heute ihrem Lieblingssport — Marokko, preisgekrönt als Golfdestination des Jahres 2010.

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Kursangebot und Preise siehe Preisliste.

m arok ko h golf 127

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einführung h agadir 129

Agadir

Für Surfer, Strandläufer, Sonnenanbeter: Agadir ist der Inbegriﬀ von Badeferien in Marokko. Ein zehn Kilometer langer Sandstrand, 300 Sonnentage im Jahr, perfekte Bedingungen für Wassersportler. Nach einem Erdbeben im Jahr 1960 neu auf-gebaut, bietet der Ort am Atlantik heute eine moderne touristische Infrastruktur: Komfortable Hotels, Sport von Golf bis Hochsee-angeln, Fussgängerzonen mit Läden und Terrassencafés. Auf der neuen, fünf Kilometer langen Strandpromenade ﬂanieren Sie abends mit den Einheimischen die beleuchtete Bucht

entlang — Live-Musik aus Bars und Restaurants mischt sich mit dem Rauschen der Brandung. Das authentische Marokko ﬁnden Sie am Hafen: Bunte Fischerboote, Männer mit zerfurchten Gesichtern, trocknende Netze; an langen Tischen servieren Lokale den frischen Fang — gegrillt, mit einem Spritzer Zitrone. Entdecker gehen noch weiter, denn Agadir ist auch «das Tor zum grossen Süden»: Idealer Ausgangspunkt für Ausﬂüge in die Oasen an den Ausläufern des Antiatlas.

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Essaouira

Historische Handelsstadt, kreativer Künstlertreﬀ, entspannter Badeort: Essaouira, das ehemalige Mogador, ist alles — vor allem aber authentisch: Frauen in weiten Gewändern gehen durch die Strassen, am Hafen breiten Fischer ihre Netze aus und entladen Kisten mit zappelnden Sardinen. Dem Meer hat die Stadt viel zu verdanken: Im 18. Jahrhundert war sie Umschlagplatz für begehrte Rohstoﬀe aus Afrika — Straussenfedern, Gewürze, Purpur. Reichtum, den es zu schützen galt: Trutzige Mauern, Festungsanlagen und Stadttore prägen das Bild. Doch im

ehemaligen Munitionsdepot fertigen heute Handwerker wertvolle Intarsienarbeiten aus duftendem Thujaholz und in der Medina zeigen viele Galerien die bunten Bilder der einheimischen «Artistes libres», einer zeitgenössischen Künstlergruppe. Schlendern, shoppen, staunen. Vor den Toren der Stadt liegt ein wahrer Postkartenstrand. Frischer Passatwind, grünblaue Brandung, kreischende Möwen — ein maritimes Idyll, ideal für Surfer.

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140 einführung h oualidia, el jadida

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Oualidia, El Jadida

Marokkos südliche Atlantikküste — zwischen Essaouira und Casablanca — sind 350 Kilometer, auf denen sich Strände und raue Küstenlinien, ruhige Surfbuchten und wilde See, Fischereihäfen und Vogelreviere abwechseln. Etwa auf der Hälfte der Strecke, im kleinen Küstenort Oualidia, kommen Gourmets und Naturliebhaber auf ihre Kosten: Erstere schätzen die erstklassigen Austern aus der lokalen Zucht, letztere können in den nahen Buchten Flamingos, Seeschwalben oder Kormorane beobachten, in der Lagune gefahrlos schwimmen oder surfen. Immer mehr zieht dieses

ruhige Paradies wohlhabende Erholungssuchende aus den Städten an — auch der König hat hier eine Sommerresidenz. Weiter nördlich, bei El Jadida, gibt es einen königlichen 18-Loch Golfplatz in duftenden Wäldern, mit Blick auf den Atlantik. El Jadida ist ein ehemaliger Militär- und Handelsposten der Portugiesen. Trutzige Mauern, Bastionen und Tore schützen die Altstadt in der für diesen Landstrich typischen Manier und geben dem Ort sein speziﬁsches Flair.

einführung h oualidia, el jadida 141

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144 einführung h tétouan / tanger

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Tétouan, Tanger

Weiss leuchten die Häuser von Tétouan in der grünen Senke des Martil-Wadi — dahinter das schroﬀe Bergpanorama des Rif. Sieben kunstvoll gearbeitete Tore öﬀnen den Weg in die schattige Medina. Schmiedeeiserne Brunnen, keramikverzierte Fassaden, versteckte Patios: andalusisch-arabische Mischung. Das europäische Erbe ist überall sichtbar, und doch: hier beginnt der Orient. Auf dem Souk El Fouki mischen sich Bergbewohner in grauen Djellabas und Bauern in gestreiften Foutas unter die Städter und feilschen laut um Waren.

In Tanger, der «Turteltaube auf der Schulter Afrikas» — ist Europa noch in Sichtweite: Nur die Strasse von Gibraltar trennt die Stadt von Spanien, Schattenriss am Horizont. Strategische Lage, Weltoﬀenheit und Freizügigkeit machten Tanger einst zum Magneten für Aussteiger, Künstler und Avantgardisten. In den hohen, oft meterschmalen Gassen der Medina wandeln Sie auf den Spuren von Paul Bowles, Matisse oder Yves Saint Laurent.

einführung h tétouan / tanger 145

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Die Stadt, die Marokko den Namen gab: Marrakesch. Wenn hier am Morgen die Sonne aufgeht, erwacht — begleitet vom gleichförmigen Sprechgesang des Muezzin — ein Märchen aus 1001 Nacht: Glasierte Mauerverzierungen, rosafarbene Marmorbrunnen, türkis-grüne Mosaikﬂiesen. In den gewundenen Gassen beginnt der Alltag: Ohrenbetäubendes Hämmern bei den Messingschmieden, erstes lautes Feilschen im Souk für Lederwaren. Auf dem Rahba Kedima («Alter Platz») kaufen Quacksalber Zutaten für ihre Tinkturen, Bauern oﬀerieren Mandeln, Datteln und lebende Hühner.

Ausserhalb der Stadtmauern herrscht ein anderer Rhythmus: 180.000 Palmen rauschen in der Palmeraie sanft im Wind, im Jardin Majorelle gedeihen Pﬂanzen aus fünf Kontinenten. Orte zum Auftanken, bevor in der Medina der Tag ein zweites Mal beginnt: Bei Sonnenuntergang versammeln sich auf dem Platz Djemaa el Fna Schlangenbeschwörer, Gaukler und Geschichtenerzähler — irrwitziges Schauspiel, das die Sinne überﬂutet.

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Casablanca

Metropole und Medina, Tradition und Technik, Banken und Basare: Casablanca ist die grösste und modernste Stadt des Mahgreb — internationales Handelszentrum, Hochburg markanter Architektur, Austragungsort grosser Kongresse. Breite Boulevards, Art Déco Fassaden und öﬀentliche Parks prägen das Stadtbild. Augenfälligstes Symbol für die Progressivität Casablancas ist die Moschee Hassan II — die zweitgrösste nach Mekka: 25 000 Gläubige fasst der Gebetsraum; das Dach lässt sich öﬀnen und taucht die Betenden innerhalb von drei Minuten in Sonnen-

licht. Vom Minarett — 200 Meter hoch — weisen zwei Laserstrahlen den Weg nach Mekka: Ein «Leuchtturm des Islam», direkt am Meer. Nichtsdestotrotz ist die Gegend am Wasser abends ein weltgewandtes Ausgehviertel: Entlang der Corniche reihen sich angesagte Restaurants, Trendbars und Hotels. Ein weiteres Muss für Nachtschwärmer: Rick’s Café am Rande der alten Medina — originalgetreue Nachbildung der berühmten Bar aus «Casablanca».

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Rabat Hauptstadt, Regierungssitz, Heimat des Königs — und doch ist die Atmosphäre in der zweitgrössten Stadt des Landes entspannt, friedlich und sommerlich. Für Marokko-Neulinge ist Rabat ein idealer Einstieg: Kuppeln und Minarette prägen das Bild, es gibt viele Grünﬂächen und breite Avenuen. Selbst das sonst so geschäftige Treiben in den Souks scheint hier weniger anstrengend. Auf einer Klippe im Norden der Stadt thront die Kasbah des Oudaias, eine gewaltige Festungsanlage — errichtet zum Schutz vor Piraten und Rebellen. Dicke Stadtmauern, monu-

mentale Tore und Wachtürme schützen das friedliche Innenleben der Kasbah, die weiss gekalkten Häuser, einen andalusischen Garten, die Moschee el-Atika. Vom maurischen Café schweift der Blick über die Mündung des Flusses Bou Regreg zur Medina von Salé am anderen Ufer und zum Meer. Sommerfrische, pur: Im Norden und Süden von Rabat erstrecken sich lange, goldene Strandstreifen — Seebäder bieten Erholung, hübsche Restaurants und belebte Cafés.

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Fès

Still liegt das Dächermeer von Fès eingebettet zwischen der fruchtbaren Saïs-Ebene und den Zedernwäldern des Mittleren Atlas. Vom Aussichtspunkt bei den Merinidengräbern — verfallene Ruinen einst königlicher Pracht — sind die architektonischen Meisterwerke dieser Stadt kaum zu erahnen; doch im mittelalterlichen Gassengewirr von Fès el Bali («Die Alte»), hinter scheinbar unauffälligen Türen, verbergen sich Schätze: Nach oben oﬀene Patios mit geschnitzten Balkonen, aufwändig gestaltete Moscheen und Medersen (Koranschulen) ś kalligraphieverzierte Keramik, Stuck und Säulen, Intarsien aus Zedernholz.

Fès gilt als Zentrum der geistigen Welt, aber auch als Zentrum des Handwerks: Die Bottiche der Gerber sind zum Teil seit Jahrhunderten in Gebrauch, bei den Färbern kommen aus Pﬂanzen gewonnene Pigmentstoﬀe zum Einsatz. Das Kobaltblau der hier hergestellten Töpferwaren heisst nach der Stadt: Fès-Blau — die Anmischung ist ein gut gehütetes Geheimnis.

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Hollywood ist auch schon da. Denn selbst der beste Bühnenbildner könnte keine gelungenere Szenerie schaﬀen, als am südlichen Rand des Hohen Atlas bereits vorhanden: Schneebedeckte Berge treﬀen auf die Ausläufer der Wüste, tiefe Schluchten graben sich in kahle Gebirgskämme, aus grünen Oasen ragen trutzige Kasbahs. In den dramatischen Landschaften rund um Ouarzazate entstanden Filme wie «Lawrence von Arabien» oder Bernardo Bertoluccis «Himmel über der Wüste». In der ehemaligen französischen Garnisonsstadt mit ihren breiten Strassen, Hotels

und Grünflächen befinden sich zwei Filmstudios — ganz in der Nähe auch gleich zwei vortreffliche «Kulissen»: Die restaurierte Kasbah Taourirt mit ihren hohen glatten Wänden aus Lehm und das alte Wehrdorf Aït Benhaddou mit seinen zinnenbewährten Türmen. Beide Stätten — wie aus einem ockerfarbenen Block gemeisselt — gehören zum Weltkulturerbe der UNESCO. Man möchte gegen die dicken Mauern klopfen — nur um zu überprüfen: Realität oder Filmkulisse?

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Hinein in das bunte Gewusel der Souks mit ihren Händlern, Farben, Gerüchen? In die einsame, ockerfarbene Weite mit ihren verstreuten Oasen und Kasbahs? Auf die schneebedeckten Berge mit ihren Schluchten und Panoramen? Marokko ist einzigartig vielfältig — gehen Sie auf Entdeckungsreise: gemeinsam in der Gruppe, oder auf eigene Faust, mit dem Mietwagen. Sie werden überall jemanden ﬁnden, der Ihnen eine Geschichte erzählt.

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schweben über glitzernden Salzkristallen. Wem der Sinn eher nach orientalischen Verwöhnprogrammen steht, wird schnell fündig. Das Hamam, einst von den römischen Kolonialherren eingeführt, gehört zur tunesischen Alltagskultur, die heimische Hotellerie hat sich auf Thalasso, Meerwasserkuren, spezialisiert. Tradition: Festivals in den schönsten und reichsten Trachten, in allen Teilen des Landes, Kamelrennen, Reiterspiele, Trommeln und Tamburine. Das kleinste Land des Mahgreb: beeindruckend grosse Vielfalt.

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einführung h golf 193

Golf

Perfekt gestaltete Flächen, verteilt über das ganze Land, inmitten der grossen Ferienorte — die zehn tunesischen Golfplätze. Sie proﬁtieren von ganzjährig warmen Temperaturen und vielseitigem Terrain. An den Küsten dominieren Pinienwälder, Zypressen, sanfte Hügel — und immer wieder wunderbare Aussichten auf maritime Landschaften. Am

Rande der Wüste liegt der jüngste Golfplatz Tunesiens: Gegenüber den Palmenhainen von Tozeur locken Canyons und Felsen als natürliche Hindernisse.

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einführung h nabeul / ha m m a met / port el k an taoui / sousse / monastir / m ahdia 197

Nabeul, Hammamet, Port El Kantaoui, Sousse, Monastir, Mahdia

Strand und Sonne, Thalasso und Hamam spielen in Tunesien traditionell eine wichtige Rolle. Dazu kommen anspruchsvolle Golfplätze und Wassersport, Kultur und historische Schätze. Jeder Ort erzählt seine eigene Geschichte: Sousse im neunten Jahrhundert, Blütezeit der Aghlabiden: Sie bauen trutzige Kasbahs und die imposante Grosse Moschee. Als moderne Neustadt, aber mit ebenso altem Herz präsentiert sich Nabeul. Weiss, blau und gelb leuchten die traditionell getöpferten Vasen und Teller von den Ständen des Kamelmarktes

ś gleich neben bemalten Trommeln, Körben und duftenden Harissas. Auch Hammamet öﬀnet die Tore zu einer lebendigen, verwinkelten Medina. Wagen Sie den Aufstieg auf die breiten Mauern der Kasbah ś über den pastellfarbenen Dächern empfängt Sie die luftige Meeresbrise. Monastir trumpft mit seinem Ribat auf: Goldgelbe Mauern erheben sich majestätisch hinter dem Strand, kilometerweit sichtbar. Kultur, Wellness, Aktivprogramm ś hatten Sie etwas anderes von Tunesien erwartet?

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Djerba

Als Odysseus vor der tunesischen Küste landete, ahnte er noch nichts von der Schwierigkeit, seine Mannschaft zur Weiterfahrt zu bewegen. Schattige Palmenhaine, honigsüsse Früchte, gastfreundliche Bewohner: Die Insel aus Homers Heldenepos soll Djerba gewesen sein. Belegt ist, dass die Geschichte des Eilands mit den 324 Sonnentagen bis in die Antike reicht — davon zeugt die römische Dammstrasse zur Küstenstadt Zarzis. Djerba heute: ein internationaler Flughafen, ein gut unterhaltenes Strassennetz, Strandresorts in landestypischer Bauweise — und der Reiz von

damals. Wandeln Sie durch Olivenhaine, vorbei an Granatapfelbäumen und Feigenkakteen, zu langen Stränden. Auf den Sandbänken beobachten Sie rosa Flamingos, die im ﬂachen Meer nach Nahrung suchen. Erleben Sie maritime Wellness: Meerwasserbäder, Packungen mit Schlick und Sand, Inhalation von Gischt. Thalasso gehört ebenso zum Standardangebot vieler Hotels wie ein abwechslungsreiches Sport- und Unterhaltungsangebot.

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Nordtunesien Tunis, Gammarth, Tabarka

Grünes Tunesien: Im Norden ist der Boden fruchtbar, die Natur üppig und die Landschaft urwüchsig. Kunterbunte Tauchreviere mit überwältigendem Artenreichtum liegen vor der wild-romantischen Küste, an Land fasziniert der imposante Ichkeul-Nationalpark. Der Norden Tunesiens — eine Gegend mit charmantem Charakter und lauschigen Plätzen, ein Ort voller Geschichte und Kultur: Kunst, Musik und liebevolle Handwerksarbeiten, architektonische Zeugnisse aus längst vergangenen Jahrhunderten warten darauf, entdeckt zu werden. Tunis strahlt selbstbe-

wusst die Aura einer multikulturellen Metropole aus — elegant, modern, mit orientalischem Chic. Das idyllische Städtchen Tabarka, berühmt für seinen bezaubernden Hafen und die aus dem Meer ragenden Felsformationen, liegt an einem wunderbar feinen Sandstrand. Im umtriebigen Badeort Gammarth begegnen Sie tunesischer Gastfreundschaft und orientalischer Herzlichkeit, zum Beispiel in einem der zahlreichen Strassencafés.

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Unwirkliche Sandwüsten, erquickende Oasen, fremdländische Bräuche — wo Jahrhunderte lang Karawanen vorbeizogen, ist Gastfreundschaft heute eine Selbstverständlichkeit. Lachend heissen Sie sonnengegerbte Gesichter willkommen, herzlich werden die Reisenden umsorgt. Kamelherden trotten gemütlich an Ihnen vorbei, in hundertfachen Rottönen schimmert der Sand, Fata Morganas ﬂimmern am Horizont. In den Städten spenden hohe Lehmmauern, detailreich verziert, kühlenden Schatten in den engen, verwinkelten Gässchen. Wuselige Märkte mit Säcken voller fremder

Gewürze, mit bunten Stoffen und den süssesten Datteln: Vergessen Sie das Handeln nicht, und lassen Sie sich danach auf einen starken Kaffee einladen. Verlassene Wüstenschlösser trotzen Sonne und Sand, prall behangene Dattelpalmen biegen sich unter ihrer süssen Last, Quellen plätschern aus dem sandigen Gestein und schaffen fruchtbare Oasen. Eine faszinierende Gegend — kontrastreich, traditionsbewusst, herzlich.

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244 einführung h rundr eisen

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Rundreisen Karthago, Kairouan, Kantaoui. Vom antiken Mittelmeerhafen über islamische Prachtbauten bis zur modernen Retortenstadt — Tunesien wartet mit einem Panoptikum der vergangenen Jahrtausende auf Sie. Ob römische Ruinen oder mittelalterliche Medinas, im nördlichsten Land Afrikas schöpfen Amateur-Archäologen und Hobby-Historiker aus der vollen Schatzkiste der Geschichte. Naturliebhaber kommen im Landesinneren auf Ihre Kosten: karge Steinwüsten, riesige Salzseen, enge Schluchten, wuchtige Wasserfälle, endlose

Steppen und goldene Sanddünen malen immer neue Gemälde. Setzen Sie sich in einen Jeep und begeben Sie sich auf eine Entdeckungsreise zwischen Land und Stadt, zwischen Gestern und Heute. Und wenn Sie nach einem langen Tag am Ende einer staubigen Strasse das Tagesziel erreicht haben, wartet Ihr Gastgeber bereits auf Sie — mit Tajine und Tee. «Asslema» in Tunesien.

einführung h rundr eisen 245

destination guide

mediterranean sea

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