The electronic bulletin of the Tri-national Program by Programa Trinacional

The electronic bulletin of the Tri-national Program of Conservation and Sustainable Development of the Corridor of the Protected Areas La Paya (Colombia), Cuyabeno (Ecuador) and Güeppí (Peru)

www.programatrinacional.com

The electronic bulletin of the Tri-national Program of Conservation and Sustainable Development of the Corridor of the Protected Areas La Paya (Colombia), Cuyabeno (Ecuador) and Güeppí (Perú) TRI-NATIONAL PROGRAM DRA. JULIA MIRANDA LONDOÑO DIRECTOR SYSTEM OF COLOMBIAN NATIONAL NATURAL PARKS DR. PEDRO GAMBOA MOQUILLAZA SERNANP CHIEF NATIONAL SERVICE OF NATURAL PROTECTED AREAS FOR THE STATE ISABEL ENDARA DIRECTOR NATIONAL DIRECTION OF BIODIVERSITY MINISTRY OF ENVIRONMENT ECUADOR DIANA CARRERA TECHNICAL SECRETARY TRI-NATIONAL PROGRAM JEFERSON ROJAS AREA CHIEF LA PAYA NATIONAL NATURAL PARK LUIS BORBOR AREA CHIEF CUYABENO FAUNA PRODUCTION RESERVE TEOFILO TORRES AREA CHIEF GÜEPPÍ RESERVE ZONE CAMILO ORTEGA P. M. Sc PUTUMAYO TRES FRONTERAS COORDINATOR JOSÉ LUIS CONDORI COORDINADOR FRONTERAS DE CONSERVACIÓN ANA ISABEL MARTÍNEZ NATURAL PATRIMONY COLOMBIA HUMBERTO CABRERA PROFONANPE

EDITORIAL

Dr Pedro Gamboa Moquillaza Sernanp Chief

SPECIAL REPORT Local information for local decisions STORY Land Zoning, an opportunity for the communities EVENTS Tri-border encounter EVENTS Towards Ramsar designation EVENTS Discussion of community action STORY A journey to los Monos, a journey in search of native cocoa PHOTO OF THE MONTH

CATALINA VARGAS TROPENBOS INTERNATIONAL COLOMBIA KJELD NIELSEN WWF PERÚ RODRIGO DURÁN BAHAMÓN NATIONAL NATURAL PARKS OF COLOMBIA DESIGN, LAYOUT AND EDITORIAL COORDINATION FERNEY DÍAZ CASTAÑEDA COMMUNICATIONS TRI-NATIONAL PROGRAM

“This publication was developed with the assistance of the European Union. Content of same is exclusive responsibility of the authors of the texts and under no circumstance must be taken to reflect the points of view of the European Union”

EDITORIAL

Dr. Pedro Gamboa Moquillaza Chief NATIONAL SERVICE OF NATURAL PROTECTED AREAS FOR THE STATE In 2012, the Tri-national Program will celebrate eleven years of existence, from the formulation of the concept of consolidating a corridor for protected areas among Colombia, Peru and Ecuador. Without a doubt they have been intense years in which we have overcome important threats and advanced in the management of protected areas along the border. Funded by:

Key stakeholders’ will to identify opportunities and mechanisms for coordinating the management of areas in these three countries, has given us a structure for establishing, handling and financing priorities for national systems of protected areas, given the proximity of La Paya National Natural Park (Colombia), the Gueppi Reserve (Peru) and the Cuyabeno Fauna Production Reserve (Ecuador).

Implemented by:

PROYECTO DE APOYO AL PROGRAMA: Funded by:

Implemented by:

If you wish to participate in this electronic bulletin, you can send your comments and contributions to comunicaciones3fronteras@wwf.org.co

The advances made in the Protected Areas Systems of the three countries, can be seen in the strengthened Conservation Corridor and its inhabitants. Substantial improvements in the areas’ control and vigilance has reinforced the three countries’ institutional presence along the borders and promoted ecotourism. In addition, through coordination and collaboration with the National Authorities of the three countries’ areas, the project incorporates the research and monitoring of flora and fauna, the development of environmental goods and services initiatives, zoning, the strengthening of operational capacities and the implementation of various legal and physical measures to protect the areas sustainably manage resources. Local stakeholders, include public authorities, non-profit organizations, indigenous communities, settlers and mixed-race people, tour operators, traders and researchers have experienced many benefits from the project activities. These groups, who live and work inside the protected areas have received training in the sustainable use of natural resources, in order to experience a more integrated, inclusive and effective management of the borders’ protected natural areas.

In this context, the project’s financial sustainability component must be highlighted because it will enable the strengthening and continuity of the activities, including sustainable national resource management, tourism and research. Ultimately, these will lead to integrated management of the National Authorities of the Protected Areas in this region, and the management plans of these three countries will turn into policies at local, regional and national levels. It is not a coincidence that conservation and sustainable use of the Amazon biome’s biologically diverse resources have been complemented and supported by an innovative model of governance, especially in the Refugio del Pleistoceno of the Putumayo Region. This model is based on building a shared regional vision of the project and taking coordinated, collaborative action among all of the bordering countries to improve local capacity, mitigate the negative impacts of the human activities, and in the process develop a methodology that can be replicated in other parts of the region. Neither can these advancements be fully explained without taking into account the coordinated efforts of these three countries, as well as their financial mechanisms through their Environmental Funds and the participation of partners in this field that enabled them to take advantage of this opportunity to adopt integration as a timely and necessary tool for the conservation of the Amazonic region. We can summarize 2010 as the year when technical advancements in the Consolidation of the Corridor started to be valued. These actions included: the generation of shared activities to manage the coordinated resources and control and vigilance activities in the border zone, as well as a greater level of involvement of the local communities in the implementation of the Tri-national Program of Conservation and Sustainable Development of Putumayo and other projects in the Corridor. One of the most significant results achieved by the authorities of the Protected Areas Systems and the nongovernmental organizations involved with the consolidation of the Corridor

From left to right Teofilo Tórres, Chief ZR de Güeppí, Luis Borbor, Chief RPF de Cuyabeno and Jeferson Rojas, Chief, PNN La Paya Roberto Maldonado. WWF Alemania

was the positioning of the Tri-national Program identified before the biological Diversity Agreement (BDA). Rodrígo Durán/ PNN Colombia

Also, after two years of coordinated work among the three countries’ technical and legal teams of the Protected Areas Systems and Foreign Office Ministries, the directors of the Protected Natural Areas Systems approved the final text of the Memorandum of Understanding, thereby providing a framework for the Coordinating Committee of the Tri-national Program, carried out in Lima (Peru). The Ministers of the Environment of Ecuador, Peru and the Colombia’s Minister of the Environment, Housing and Territorial Development signed the Memorandum of Understanding MOU in June 2011. The same year, the Colombian Agency of National Natural Parks handed over the Technical Secretary (Chairperson) position of the Ecuadorian Ministry of Environment’s Biodiversity Department in accordance with the MOU. Alternating chairmanship every two years aims to further the process institutional integration among the countries and to guarantee equal participation in the program. Finally, a main issue in the agenda has been the shared need to strengthen the management of the three border protected areas, improving the coverage, the effectiveness of management and the connectivity, creating corridors and ecological nets in the scope of the region.

STORY

LAND ZONING

An opportunity for the communities CEDIA The titling of community territories, supported by the Putumayo Tres Fronteras Project, has generated a sense of security and satisfaction among local communities. They have been empowered to finally take ownership of the their ancestral lands, erasing the uncertainty and fear that they felt before, when they worried they would be stripped of their lands at any moment or invaded by strangers. The acquisition of the corresponding property title means to have a document that will make them enforce their rights in any circumstance. The people from the community of Peneya are the clearest demonstration of this. The territory they occupy is not very extensive and for this reason on the day that carried out the field work, they showed interest in marking the borders of their land, using their stakes as milestones and making their trails in the forest so that verybody know the community property limits. As they were doing this work, a community person was overheard saying: ”we have been waiting to zone our community for a long time. Now, It does not matter whether the territory is big or small. What makes me happy is that it is secure for us and for our sons”. All communities participated in the field work process and made decisions, cooperating with technicians, by guiding them through the forest to zone the borders, transporting the technicians in their boats from one place to another, providing the “shungos” (stakes) to mark each milestone and ending the working day drinking “masato”, a well known and refreshing beverage prepared by the community women. Expressions of happiness and satisfaction were seen in their faces.

All communities participated in the field work process cooperating with technicians, by guiding them through the forest to zone the borders, and transporting the technicians in theirboats from one place to another

CEDIA

The statute’s approval and the reorganization and election of the Board of Directors in each Community represented something like “putting things in place”. It means to manage the community in an orderly way, enabling each community person to recognize and assume his responsibilities and rights. It means knowing how to incorporate a new member as a community person, identifying the responsibilities of each member of the Board of Directors, clearly recognizing the power an assembly has as the maximum authority of the Community, and other aspects related to the proper functioning and management of the community. A community person of San Martin de Porres said: ”now that we can solve our problems, there are other internal aspects of having our Statute as a guiding tool”.

”We have been waiting to zone our community for a long time. Now, It does not matter whether the territory is big or small. What makes me happy is that it is secure for us and for our sons”.

SPECIAL REPORT

Here, Samaritana reserve ROCÍO POLANCO OCHOA Tropenbos Internacional Colombia

In the Samaritana reserve, in the Puerto Leguizamo municipality, from 18 to 21 September 2011 a meeting took place in order to analyze the local information that had been generated and to develop management plans. Participant included: the Colombian partners of the Putumayo Tres Fronteras project (La Paya and Tropenbos Natural Parks); the Association of Traditional Authorities and Indigenous Councils of Puerto Leguizamo and Alto Predio Putumayo, (ACILAPP), representatives of the town of Murui, the governors of Agua Negra, Tukunare and Lagarto Cocha reserves; and local researchers who took part in the project in 2010. On the 20th, the welcoming ceremony took place attended by the traditional indigenous authorities, governors, senior advisor and Colombian National Natural Parks La Paya and Tropenbos. The agenda was structured first to review the changes made by local investigators and then analyze the information and develop proposals, agreements and conclusions. At the end, during night hours, there was a traditional dancing known as “mambeadero de la maloca”.

Rocío Polanco O. Tropenbos Internacional Colombia

At the mambeadero, grandparents, the highest traditional authorities, emphasized the importance of maintaining practice as a place for the “sweet word” The local researchers who monitored the process and resources spent expressed great satisfaction for having participated and also for having learned how to express local knowledge through writing or drawings, how to analyze the monitoring records and to share stories about the origins of the local communities and population. Also, they appreciated that the process encouraged children to participate in monitoring, sharing the knowledge of names in the Murui language, knowing the real statistics about how much fish, cassava and resources are consumed, among other lessons learned. All of the local investigators who were present agreed that the process was very interesting and expressed their desire for it to continue; furthermore, they suggested that the authorities support and expand the process. Later activities analyzed, from an external perspective, the self-assessment and identified its strengths and witnesses. Among other advantages, it was very clear that the self--

At the end, during night hours, there was a traditional dancing known as “mambeadero de la maloca”. assessment generates and enhances: a sense of ownership and knowledge of the territory and the process; the valuing of local knowledge; the family unity; knowledge of linguistic gaps; identification of species; community relations and increase awareness of natural resource management, including the identification of the loss of some resources. The external assessment also identifies key areas for improvement, noting that problems related to illegal arm forces, in some cases had prevented technical experts from accompanying the activities. It was also that future process take into account the lack of knowledge of the local dialect, including limited ability to spell names or adapt to variations in dialects. In addition, imprecise measurement systems for fish and animals and limited ability to understand and interpret transcriptions and monitoring charts were also identified as challenges. Locally, the participants understand that it is crucial to strengthen the process of generating knowledge and information at the local level. importance to generate information and to strengthen a generation process. Therefore, the participants proposed expanding activities to the 23 communities and all of the families that are affiliated with ACILAPP in addition to intensifying work in the thematic areas that were already started. “We want to accomplish a big task ”, the participants mentioned more than once. They emphasize the importance of coordinating efforts among the public institutions and indigenous authorities, especially Tropenbos park continue to support the process. They also proposed designing and publishing a book on Murui including the town’s history, origins and legends as well as the story of the ancestral and current territory and a traditional murui map and ecological calendar.

On the other hand, Tukunare, the oldest reserve and therefore the reserve that has made the most research advancements, proposed enriching the Murui publication by incorporating the story of Tukunare’s population and history. The group also discussed the possibility of generating educational materials for schools and sustainable natural resource management manuals. ACILAPP proposed the publication of two books for first and second grades with two fundamental bases: recovery of territory and chagras, which refer to the species and quality of life of the area. During the mambeadero dancing night of day 20, grandparents, the highest maximum traditional authorities highlighted the advantages of maintaing this practice as a space for the “sweet word”, to retain cultural traditions, clear thoughts and analyze from the heart and the spirit the proposals made in more technical spaces. They express the feeling of having built inter-institutional and personal relationships confirmed the interest to continue with this process. We hope the process of building local relationships and generating knowledge for decision-making continues to be successful. The seeds that we planted during 2010 through our own research have generated the advances, challenges and the proposals articulated today. In this respect, the specific proposals given by ACILAPP and the local authorities constitute a challenge for us, as project promoters in Colombia, as the initiatives locally developed have higher possibilities of success. We also believe that to succeed with these proposals is a way to precise the processes initiated through the 3 Border Putumayo Project, and make them real and long lasting

EVENTOS PASADOS

Tri-border convention Puerto Leguizamo (Putumayo) October 25 to November 1, 2011

Jefersona Rojas, PNN la Paya Chief © Ferney Díaz C. © Ferney Díaz C.

During the month of November, the Tri-border convention In Puerto Leguizamo, Putumayo convened delegations of the three countries to participate in different sports and cultural activities for three days. Also, in this context, a second environmental forum took place, led by the La Paya National Natural Park leader, with the assistance of people from the municipality, representatives of communities and other special guests. This event also provided an opportunity for some children who attended to draw pictures about to the Tri-national Program.

Advances in the binational lagoon complex Lagartocoha, frontera Perú-Ecuador January 25 to February 2, 2012

First journey show the high biodiversity of this wetland, the richness of birds, fish and abundance of river dolphins © Ferney Díaz C.

During the last week of January and the beginning of February, a pre-sampling of fish, birds and river dolphins took place in order to designate the lagoon complex of the Lagartococha basin, a border between Ecuador and Peru, as a new Ramsar site; the first designed in the border zone in this Amazonic region. This first journey allowed us to designate future sampling stations and the institutions of the three countries that will support the process, as well as to advance the process of obtaining permission for scientific research, which is necessary for carrying out the biologic characterizations (June 2012). The richness of birds (106 species), fish (more then 100 species) and the abundance of river dolphins (32 dolphins in 295 Kms.) registered in this first journey show the high biodiversity of this wetland complex and will enable us to define the criteria for international designation, positively impacting the conservation and diminishing pressure on the area.

Discussion of citizen action Puerto Leguizamo (Putumayo) February 28 to March 4, 2012

Participants identified priority issues for negotiation

The first preparatory meeting for the “Conversatorio” for Citizen Action took place with the participation of 42 leaders, representatives of indigenous organizations, peasants, elders of Caucaya, local groups and state representatives. The conversatorio is defined as a “mechanism for resolving conflicts supported by and based on the collective demand for citizen rights, ratified by national laws and implemented through the use of mechanisms and legal instruments and public policy for the participation in and advocacy of public policy”..

A JOURNEY TO LOS MONOS

The story of a journey in search of the native cocoa, a fruit that many people talk about but do not know. Anecdotes and journeys told by those who have been there. upstream vey fast, we looked at each other anxiously, but said nothing and continued without any distractions until we got to a house where we met Mr. Arcadio Ramirez, on the left bank of the river. He told us that on his hunting shifts, following the sainos pigs or manaos (Tayassu pecari), he had found a variety of fruit DEPARTURE FROM PUERTO LEGUIZAMO TO LA TAGUA Prior to the journey, we prepared all equipment and supplies and and coca in the jungle, among them a type of cocoa that looks left Puerto Leguizamo at 4 on the morning of November 13 in like corn with long, thin corrugated shells with big seeds. He told order to make the journey from La Tagua down the Caqueta river. us that he would help us travel here in May when the trees were full of fruit, to find and identify them. He also talked about the existence of a species of black cachama (a type of fish) found A JOURNEY ALONG MR. JAIME VASQUEZ’S PROPERTY in Peregrino lake of Caqueta. Known locally as a stone head After registering at the La Tagua military post, we started the jourcachama, it can weigh up to 4 tons. ney stopping first at Mr. Jaime Vasquez’s property, located on the right bank an hour away from La Tagua. There, its owner showed us a cocoa montuno tree, with small fruit, located on a low, flooded VISIT TO MRS. GRACIELA MARTINEZ’S PROPERTY area; he explained that at harvest time, the fruit coat the trees Further downstream, in the territory of Umancia, we visited the from the main stem to the branches. With this information, it was property of Mrs. Graciela Martinez, who did not hesitate to show impossible for us to calculate precisely the quantity produced, the us the wild cocoa trees. Given the fact that it wasn’t harvest time, it incidence of diseases like monilla, and other production specifics . was impossible to clearly identify the characteristics of the fruit of Also, Mr. Vasquez does not have any knowledge about other kinds the trees we saw. When we said good-bye, she offered us plantains and cassava to go with the fish or the hunting that we would find of native varieties of cocoa or other foods of interest. in the village of Umancia, where a Huitoto community lives. Previous preparation of all equipment and other elements for the VISIT TO MR. ARCADIO RAMIREZ’S PROPERTY. journey, we left Puerto Leguizamo at 4 in the morning on 13 NoHUNTER vember in order to speed the journey from La Tagua downstream Going downstream, we came across a miners boat going the Caqueta river. EDUARDO LOZANO ARTURO RIASCOS HERALDO VALLEJO Parque Nacional Natural La Paya

Why to look for native cocoa? “… The native cocoa, of smooth flavor and recognized quality, named like that by the Spaniards during the colonial period, does not exist commercially. This cocoa did not adapt to other regions different from its ancestral origin zone, in the Napo band, Putumayo, Caqueta and Eastern Venezuela. For this reason, the amazonic types brought from South America, from colony times, replaced it. These trees were more robust and better adapted, but of lower quality due to their high content of tannin that made them bitter and astringent, compared with the native genetically pure of white cotyledons. The native cocoa is characterized for having elongated fruit of fine shell, with ten furrows, combining a deep one with another of less depth. The skin is rough and ends in pointed tips. The seeds are sweet and the color goes from white to violet. From this type, a fine and a better quality cocoa is produced. Nowadays, there is not pure native cocoa, but different kinds that have been crossed with other varieties.

At the beginning of the XX century, around 1917, the plantation companies Cuyamel and United Fruit Company introduced amazonic cocoa, and further on, in the 40s and 50s, they introduced improved cocoa of Trinitarian type, selected by the latter transnational company and seeds brought from Centro de Cacao del IICA in Costa Rica (currently 23 CATIE). In the 50s, a technical assistance program created with financial support of the government of the United States of America, known as the Servicio Tecnico Interamericano de Cooperacion Agricola STICA, distributed this same materials among the producers of the Atlantic zone of Honduras. Thus, the situation in relation to the genetic material of the native cocoa has gradually changed in the last decades with new introductions. Program for the Rural Sustainable Development in the Municipality El Castillo (ProDeSoc). 2.006. Cocoa cultivation in agroforestry systems. San Juan River, Nicaragua.

United States of America, known as the Servicio Tecnico Interamericano de Cooperacion Agricola (STICA), also distributed these same materials to producers along the Atlantic coast of Honduras. Thus, the situation in relation to the genetic material of the native cocoa has gradually changed in the last decades. Program for the Rural Sustainable Development in the Municipality El Castillo (ProDeSoc). 2.006. Cocoa cultivation in agroforestry systems. San Juan River, Nicaragua.

A CONVERSATION WITH MR. ABRAHAM LOPEZ

We arrived at the port of Umancia in the afternoon. From the boat, our friend Eduardo Lozano recognized Mr. Abraham Lopez and excitedly greeted him. Mr. Lopez kindly hosted us and asked how he could help us. He showed us his territory and his community work, and introduced us to his father and his people, the Chief of the community and the Governor with whom we requested an audience – a request accepted without any problem. Silently, we reflected on their hospitality and whether we have the capacity to host people the way that they do it. The native cocoa is characterized for having elongated fruit of fine shell, with ten furrows, combining a deep one with another of less depth

MEETING IN MALOCA

WHY LOOK FOR NATIVE COCOA?

“Native cocoa, with smooth flavor and recognizable quality, was given its name by the Spaniards during the colonial period. This cocoa did not adapt to other regions, so it is only found in the NAPO band, Putumayo, Caqueta and Eastern Venezuela. It does not exist commercially because it was replaced by Amazonic cocoa brought to the area by colonists. These other types were more robust and better adapted, but of lower quality due to their high content of tannins, which made them bitter and astringent, compared with the native type, which is genetically free of white cotyledons. Native cocoa is known for having elongated fruit with a fine shell and ten rows of varying depths. The skin is rough and it has pointed ends. The seeds are sweet and vary in color from white to violet. It produces a fine, a high quality cocoa. Nowadays, there is not pure native cocoa, but different kinds that have been crossed with other varieties. At the beginning of the twentieth century, around 1917, the plantation companies Cuyamel and United Fruit Company (UFC) introduced amazonic cocoa, and further on, in the 1940s and 1950’s, they introduced an improved form of cocoa (selected by UFC) and seeds brought the Interamerican Institute fo Agricultural Corporations (IICA) center for cocoa. In the 1950’s, a technical assistance program created with financial support of the government of the

In the early evening, we met with the chief of the community, Julio Cesar Lopez, as well as the grandfather and some younger people at the maloca, and had a nice conversation. We agreed that native seeds must be preserved in order to ensure food security. We also discussed the need for the cultural survival and the importance of receiving the support of public institutions that have conservation initiative. They told us that the territory was “cocoa land”; they described about the process of extracting cocoa and the diverse materials, which can only be clearly distinguished by the fruit at the time of production. Abraham Lopez, thanked us for our visit saying: “They say that they do not bring us anything, but they leave us sacks of knowledge”. One of the participants told us that in Villa Azul, a National Natural Park area of CAHUINARI, the communities grow cocoa in their farms. Another indigenous person, the young governor of the community of Puerto Pizarro, which is a populated center located further down Umancia, in the Department of Amazonas, confirmed the existence of the cocoa variety that we are looking for and invited us to his territory. The next day, November 14th, accompanied by the governor of Pizarro, and with the support of chief Julio Cesar Lopez, we travelled from Pizarro to Los Monos. The chief said: “If someone asks you something, say that you are sent by me, in any case, do not navigate downstream during the night”. We also noticed that nobody drinks water from the Caqueta River, instead, people drink from other natural sources different from the river and other sources.

VISIT TO MR. PORTILLA’S PROPERTY. CATTLEMAN

The governor of Puerto Pizarro who travelled with us told us about about Mr. Jose Eliberto Portilla, known as “el pastuso”,

“He invited us in his house invaded by the noise of his hens and protected by astute dogs”

who has been living in the area for a long time and, based on his experience, may know about the existence of the places where we could find a variety of the requested cocoa. Don Gilberto greeted us with a suspicious attitude that later turned into a friendly smile when he listened to us explained who we were and why we were there. He invited us in his house, invaded by the noise of his hens, and protected by dogs. He offered us a special drink, guarapo, but as he saw our fear, he invited us to grind cane to make juice that we drank with great pleasure. We walked along a cane crop (Saccharum officinarum), surrounded by high, straight and thick stalks of cane their offsprings, two meters away from each other and almost four meters between furrows and rows. There seemed to be what it lacks, the furrows covered with ramie, for the hens to eat, that as they luxuriously graze around the crops. We talked about cocoa and many other things. Don Gilberto recognizes that his development is fully dedicated to transforming the natural environment, but it is worth noting that the theme of sustainability relates to his cattle ranching, his agriculture and his hens. He indicated that he is motivated to conserve and sustainably use the goods and services on his territory, he invited us to return, to provide technical support, but he was made aware of our institutional limitations

VISIT TO MR. ALONSO PEREZ

Further downstream, we arrived at a man’s land. He was surprised by our sudden arrival, but smiled and was kind when he discovered that we were accompanied by the governor of Puerto Pizarro who arrived in his own boat powered by of a brand new and huge “peque peque” . This man does many jobs and takes

care of his bosss’s ranch. He does not know about cocoa, but he knows about how to capture ornamental fish, as it is common in the area between Tagua – Cueimani. So far, we have a clearer idea about the differences between the biotic communities of the Caqueta and Putumayo river basins.

PUTUMATO – AMAZONAS LIMIT REGISTRATION

Guided by the Governor of Puerto Pizarro, we reached the premises that cross the boundary between Putumayo and Amazonas. Our friend expressed resistance and fear when he saw that we were going to take a photo to commemorate our arrival, certainly a historic moment for our humble existence. To calm him down, we explain who we were and what our objective was; harmless to his work and duties, to such a point that he ended up taking a photo of us three: Arturo, Eduardo and Heraldo; and we also took a photo of him.

ARRIVAL TO PUERTO PIZARRO

We arrived at Puerto Pizarro before the Governor; announced his arrival and stowed our luggage. We spoke with the people we met and they told us that this was not the time of the cocoa harvest. According to them, after the high tide, all of the cocoa of la Vega (Montuno of small fruit) starts blooming, and is followed by an abundant yield. We analyzed some aspects - the excess of humidity, high underground water levels and floods damage cocoa. Because of the language of the communities, it is not possible to determine exactly how abundant the cocoa is, nor the frequency of diseases like moniliasis and the “witch’s broom”.

ARRIVAL TO LOS MONOS

We left Pizarro on November 15 and travelled to Los Monos, this time accompanied by a Professor of Puerto Pizarro. We are

boat and then jumping again to continue on his way. With these and other surprises, we reached the cocoa habitat, finding that in the five years since the professor had been there, the place had changed so much that it was impossible to find the cocoa trees. The following morning distracted by the characteristics of the landscape, a kind-looking elderly man, with a diplomatic style introduced himself as the chief of Los Monos, of course, the indigenous community of this area. Understanding our purpose, he pointed with his finger and said that, in the island in front of us, there were all types of cocoa, noting that “now there must be the sprouts because the forests have been cut down to grow corn”.

From left to right, Arturo Riascos, Heraldo Vallejo y Eduardo Lozano, PNN La Paya staff.

“We had to explain to him who we were and what our objective was; harmless for his work and possession, to such a point that he himself took the photo of us three: Arturo, Eduardo and Heraldo; we also took him a photo”

getting used to the people’s kindness and their clever way of speaking. At Los Monos, we met a non-indigenous man, Don Raul, from Valle del Cauca who with a permanent “yes sir”, “of course”, “yes sir”, was ready to receive us and offer his hospitality and unconditional help.

A JOURNEY DOWN THE NONOMANI RIVER

Once we had settled into our accommodations and had some food, we left for Nonomani canyon with the professor from Puerto Pizarro in search of sweet cocoa, the native cocoa that is of the high quality in the world and which, in this opportunity, is our goal. At the canyon, a howling monkey (Alouatta seniculus) crossing from border to border had no trouble jumping in our

The next day, with food in the pot, we returned alone convinced that at least we had opened a way, knowing the rules of safety: not to navigate at night, not to drink contaminated water from the Caqueta river, and never to deny request for help along the way.

STAY AT MR. YAIS

Between coming and going and being afraid of losing our way through the branches, canyons and rivers. As night fell, our worries panic it was night, our What shall we do now! in the darkness and under the rain? At last, we saw a torch blinking a couple of times opposite of us. ! Let’s go there! Said Arturo, Yes, we answered at the same time. We got to the riverbank, there was nothing and nobody answered. We continued up along the bank to get to a place that looked clearer. It was a port. Without thinking and with no permission, we docked and followed a path that led us uphill. A mediumheight woman, robust and with a long hair appeared; we asked her: Madam, Where are we? In the river, she replied with a mocking voice and we had no alternative but to laugh with her because we did not know what river it was. We went into the kitchen, drank coffee and our companion Riascos made friends with her, he had had contact with professors and schools and he could pronounce some words in the local dialect of Murui, combined with muinane and others; we kindly asked her to prepare us some food and went to the port to get our luggage and food. Then when going up, Eduardo shouted: be careful! We were obliged to kill a deadly enemy, a snake which Arturo said that it was “rabo de aji”. Finally, with Mr. Jais and his wife, we chatted, listened to each other, dinned, and then we said good-bye to the family and prepared our bed. The next day, November 18, we continued our journey upstream, convinced that we were travelling along the Caqueta River. It kept raining, nobody complained and we tried to keep in mind the benefits of the journey.

The electronic bulletin of the Tri-national Program of Conservation and Sustainable Development of the Corridor of the Protected Areas La Paya (Colombia), Cuyabeno (Ecuador) and Güeppí (Peru)

www.programatrinacional.com

PHOTO OF THE MONTH

Boys and girls of Puerto Leguizamo joined the activity arranged for them during the Environmental Forum cited by Parque Nacional Natural La Paya, in the frame of the Tri-national Encounter carried out in this Municipality. Besides drawing, they could learn about the Tri-national Program and the pink dolphin, symbolic specie, loved by them.

www.programatrinacional.com Cuyabeno Lagoons

ÂŠ Rafael Yunda